Hi Steve. Great tutorial it’s like being in school with your favourite teacher lol 😆 This is a fabulous project 👍🏻 Don’t forget to look after your shaft 🙈 Cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Excellent video, thanks. I'm just about to have a go at the drive shafts on my MK2 Cooper S. Thanks for this. The drive shafts are similar but on these older cars but they didn't use an inner CV joint. The basic minis used a crude rubber coupling with U bolts (I'm amazed they ever lasted very long) and the performance cars (and automatics) used Hardy Spicer universal joints. Both types of joints would easily go through the hole in the subframe assembled. I guess it would have been expensive to re-jig the subframes to make the holes bigger when the introduced inner CV joints, hence the newer inner joints don't fit through the hole. The outer end CV joints seem to be much the same on my early car as in your video.
This time, I'm more impressed by the way you filmed the actions and details, and how you did your post-production. I guess you use another camera or software: I experience a difference without understanding why! The trick with the magnet, I take it with me: good practice. Looking forward what we will learn from the exhaust analytics! Thanks.
Hi again, I’m not too sure if putting the steel balls on a magnet is a good idea.The balls will be magnetised and if you use them again they have the potential to pick any steel chips, rust etc when you replace them into the cv. Stefan
Make your life a whole lot easier: after having removed the CV joints, take off the locking circlips. Carefully bend in the end of the circlips by about 1/8th" (3 - 4 mm) & refit. they will retain the joint assembly, yet reduce the effort required to take them off the shaft next time. Bleeeve me, owned minis since 1968.
Can you show one of the older rubber jointed shafts , to show folk how primitive the mini was in 1958 on introduction.............nevertheless a wonderfol concept vehicle.......... here in Australia we fitted policemen into them...........minimum height for a police constable then was 5 feet 10 1/2 inches??? Estephan
if you reuse the balls, it's probably better to demagnetize them after putting them on a magnet, otherwise they might attract the metal shavings and accelerate wear.
Wait...what was that at 6:32 ..let me rewind...lol “Mr Rusty” ! Made me laugh that Steve :) so do you have any plans once she’s completed? Perhaps some circuit or closed dirt track fun maybe?
If only I had a dollar for every cv joint I inspected and repacked, it was part of a major inspection on all VW models until they came out with a synthetic high temperature grease.
Great video. Nicely explained on how to strip the shaft down
Hi Steve. Great tutorial it’s like being in school with your favourite teacher lol 😆 This is a fabulous project 👍🏻 Don’t forget to look after your shaft 🙈 Cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Thanks so much 😊
Doing this job tomorrow on my project, so good timing 😊
Good luck!!
Always keep your shaft nice and sorted
Going through the disassembly and reassembly even though your replacing the whole Shaft- class act! Thank you
TXS for the comments
Great video and advice about buying a complete drive shaft as opposed to buying parts individually
Thanks 👍
Great, you are really the best !
Excellent video, thanks. I'm just about to have a go at the drive shafts on my MK2 Cooper S. Thanks for this.
The drive shafts are similar but on these older cars but they didn't use an inner CV joint. The basic minis used a crude rubber coupling with U bolts (I'm amazed they ever lasted very long) and the performance cars (and automatics) used Hardy Spicer universal joints. Both types of joints would easily go through the hole in the subframe assembled. I guess it would have been expensive to re-jig the subframes to make the holes bigger when the introduced inner CV joints, hence the newer inner joints don't fit through the hole.
The outer end CV joints seem to be much the same on my early car as in your video.
Thank you and enjoy your rebuild
Nice tutorial Steve
Thanks! 👍
Awesome as always 👊
Thanks for the visit
@@D3Sshooter u are more than welcome, keep it up
Hi, I always thought CV stands for Constant Velocity. Stefan.
Thanks, yes constant velocity.. I think I stated continues velocity . you are right my speaking mistake
Nice n easy. Cheers Steve 👍
You bet
This time, I'm more impressed by the way you filmed the actions and details, and how you did your post-production. I guess you use another camera or software: I experience a difference without understanding why!
The trick with the magnet, I take it with me: good practice.
Looking forward what we will learn from the exhaust analytics!
Thanks.
TXS for the comments, Same camera other lens , Carl zeis 1,2, 50 mm . That might make a difference
Hi again, I’m not too sure if putting the steel balls on a magnet is a good idea.The balls will be magnetised and if you use them again they have the potential to pick any steel chips, rust etc when you replace them into the cv. Stefan
Great tip!
Thankyou
Welcome
Very god informative video. :-)
Glad you think so!
😎👍
What did you change to ? Can you swap in Hardy spicer U joints on the existing Diff as they are more robust for racing?
Make your life a whole lot easier: after having removed the CV joints, take off the locking circlips. Carefully bend in the end of the circlips by about 1/8th" (3 - 4 mm) & refit. they will retain the joint assembly, yet reduce the effort required to take them off the shaft next time. Bleeeve me, owned minis since 1968.
Great tips
How do you find the Bilstein B6 Shocks on the road?
Can you show one of the older rubber jointed shafts , to show folk how primitive the mini was in 1958 on introduction.............nevertheless a wonderfol concept vehicle.......... here in Australia we fitted policemen into them...........minimum height for a police constable then was 5 feet 10 1/2 inches???
Estephan
TXS for the comments, If I have one I will
👍🇦🇺👀
Hi when is old rusty comming i really would like to see more?
its coming
if you reuse the balls, it's probably better to demagnetize them after putting them on a magnet, otherwise they might attract the metal shavings and accelerate wear.
TXS for the comments
Did I miss something? What happen with the air fuel running conditions?
TXS for the comments, not really that is coming
C.v shaft rebuild
TXS for the comments
Wait...what was that at 6:32 ..let me rewind...lol “Mr Rusty” ! Made me laugh that Steve :) so do you have any plans once she’s completed? Perhaps some circuit or closed dirt track fun maybe?
TXS for the comments, not sure yet what I will do with it
Any Time you said?
yep
@@D3Sshooter when the temp...preacher IS hot, wheel is jaming sometimes...hoping not a severe problem...
Have a nice day Steve!
If only I had a dollar for every cv joint I inspected and repacked, it was part of a major inspection on all VW models until they came out with a synthetic high temperature grease.
TXS for the comments
So would you pack these mini cv joints with synthetic high temperature grease?
@@mad-maxx2211 yes I definitely would use synthetic high temperature grease, never had cv joint wear with it.