Great video! I'd like to add that the way you torque the bearing is not as recommended by the manufacturer. Austin / Morris / BL / Rover whatever say, you'll have to pre-tension the bearing. There is a kind of very thick washer that you use BEFORE you put in the cone washer. Don't put in the coned washer, use the thick washer only and tighten down to 260NM. Remove the thick washer, insert the coned one and torque up, then torque further until you can run a split pin through the hole and the castellated nut. This is important as without the pre-tensioning washer the coned washer will lock the assembly (that's why it's coned) before it is in the right position. And also: use the water shields on the brakes. They include the locktab for the steering arm Nut and also make driving in wet conditions safer as they prevent most of the water getting onto the disc - also most of the road grime and dirt plus little stones.
As usual Steve well done well explained and well filmed I did all that to my wife’s first car a long long time ago 40 years ago as a matter effect I wish you were around them Keep it up 👍🇦🇺Aust
D3Sshooter well Steve you have made think about all the work I did on that car including pulling the motor out by just having my father in-law and lift it out without a block and tackle Just a rope and wood across the top. Great memories 😃👍
Ah, the shaft locking rings, at 3.16, important detail: take off the locking rings, and bend the ENDS in about 3mm. The rings will still hold the joint in place - you don't want them riding in & out - and will make any future removal MUCH easier. Getting the drive shaft / pot joint thru the subframe? I cut a bigger hole! Also, you must have a later (aftermarket?) driveshaft, as the ones I have require the ball bearings to be put in one at a time, and can't be done in situ. (10.50). I assemble the complete shafts beforehand, so I can fit the circlips properly. Overall, nice clean neat job.
Another superb “how to” series. Can’t thank you enough for all your detailed and easy to understand videos. Just wondering how and how easy it is to get the Pot part of the pot joint out of the Diff?
Could you let me know where you got these shafts from. I can’t seem to find ready assembled ones anywhere like this. Also any new pot joint you get comes pre assembled. How will you fit this if you purchase one? Coukd really appreciate the help.
Love the attention to detail in all of your videos. Would you be able to say if the suspension arm bushes for a Mini would fit my 1100 (ADO16). I’m unable to source a set my model but thought the mini ones would be the same. I will be tackling this job soon and thought I’d replace these bushes at the same time as they are the originals from 50+ years ago!
I have learned a lot from your videos. Without them I would not even have started working on our Mini's! I see you have spacers on your front wheels, I would like them too. How do I install wheel spacers? Thanks in advance.
Well you will need a good set and typical they come with new bolds, as the original bolds ( for the wheels) might be to short. Its just a matter of fitting them , very easy
Thanks for the comments Darryl, I keep all the cars that I restore or work on. I am kind of stuck to it.. I buy them as abandoned projects or total loss and then try to recover them
Great information as usual. I just heard you mention a premiere... I missed that and would have really enjoyed a chance to chat.Any plans for another anytime Steve? Thanks.
Thanks for the comments, yes there is one planned for the first run-up of the engine ( Old Rusty)..on a stand.... The invite will be send in time so everybody can see it. I might even go life
Great video. Is there a video of removing this from the car? In your Mini Playlist, this part three video comes up two times in a row. Is there an error in the uploaded files?
Are you done with the Lotus? I know you were getting close but I don't think it was ever quite finished. I would like to see it on the road. Thanks, great videos.
I could of sworn Bearings its to loosen a bit to where the cotter pin lines up while a balljoint like for steering is to tighten to the next hole to line up. I haven't touched automotive in awhile but that's what i remember.
Hi mate great video, I’m doing the same job and I’ve noticed that there’s play in the driveshaft when I pull it towards me and push it back in towards the engine is this normal?
Hi ! Where do you find your tork spec please, I am doin the same job as you but on the internet i read all sort of things :/ Thank you a lot, you help me you dont know how much !
If you love British cars, why not buy an MGB? You could help a lot of owners (including myself), next to Mini owners. You could be the New Belgian 🇧🇪 John Twist! But with outstanding video quality. 👍🏻
Thanks for the comments Hunter, indeed those are the types with the two wholes .. Aa stated in the beginning, this about this specific type. But good point that you mention it here again
@@D3Sshooter The chines ones are dangerous because they break.. No compromise on brake systhem please! . Only use high quality original parts from AP-LOCKHEED / CAPARO!
@@simontemplar4093 Thanks, is that not the idea "Braking" Sorry just joking . But you are right, the thing is that these were on the car before. I guess I should have checked. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the comments, I will ask if she wants...But if you want to see my girlfriend, well then check this while she does yoga...th-cam.com/video/KFvQW6wpjRQ/w-d-xo.html
![[4K] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) “FOREVER” Band LIVE Concert “영원히” 베몬만을 사랑하게 되…💗 [it’s KPOP LIVE 잇츠라이브]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TQfC0xdpiw4/mqdefault.jpg)
Very well done video. True test of a great teacher is if you make it very understandable, fun, and looking easy. You did just that!
Thank you very much!
Great video!
I'd like to add that the way you torque the bearing is not as recommended by the manufacturer. Austin / Morris / BL / Rover whatever say, you'll have to pre-tension the bearing. There is a kind of very thick washer that you use BEFORE you put in the cone washer. Don't put in the coned washer, use the thick washer only and tighten down to 260NM. Remove the thick washer, insert the coned one and torque up, then torque further until you can run a split pin through the hole and the castellated nut.
This is important as without the pre-tensioning washer the coned washer will lock the assembly (that's why it's coned) before it is in the right position.
And also: use the water shields on the brakes. They include the locktab for the steering arm Nut and also make driving in wet conditions safer as they prevent most of the water getting onto the disc - also most of the road grime and dirt plus little stones.
The best and most informative. Thank you for taking the time!!
Thanks for the latest episode. I'm already looking forward to the next one. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the comments Fiat 1283p
Great video and very well explained. You're mini looks great
Thank you kindly!
Great video, very informative and extremely good filmwork
Thank you very much!
Nice video and nice to see the job being done properly
Thanks for the comments
As always good technical illustration thank you
Thanks for the comments
Excellent video. Very helpful.
I always had issues with CV joints. Specially when working on jackstands. Pretty good video
Thanks for the comments Sanlo, yep on stands that is not a fun job and hard
As usual Steve well done well explained and well filmed
I did all that to my wife’s first car a long long time ago 40 years ago as a matter effect I wish you were around them
Keep it up 👍🇦🇺Aust
Thanks for the comments Frank, That is funny I did this also about 30 years ago for the first time.... So you know how greasy it can be..
D3Sshooter well Steve you have made think about all the work I did on that car including pulling the motor out by just having my father in-law and lift it out without a block and tackle
Just a rope and wood across the top. Great memories 😃👍
A proper job. Thanks for sharing.
Great video , very well explained ... so helpful I would tackle this job but would need some special tools like a torque wrench which I do not have!
Thanks for the comments, a torque wrench is an absolute must
Obligement for yet another informative half hour, that felt like only 10 mutes.
Thanks for the comments Diers
Great work Steve thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺👀
Thanks for the comments Kerry
Enjoyable video thank you Steve. Cheers 👍 n see you soon with another view.
Glad you enjoyed it
Very well explained.Thank you.
Very good explaining. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Very good job !👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Ah, the shaft locking rings, at 3.16, important detail: take off the locking rings, and bend the ENDS in about 3mm. The rings will still hold the joint in place - you don't want them riding in & out - and will make any future removal MUCH easier. Getting the drive shaft / pot joint thru the subframe? I cut a bigger hole!
Also, you must have a later (aftermarket?) driveshaft, as the ones I have require the ball bearings to be put in one at a time, and can't be done in situ. (10.50). I assemble the complete shafts beforehand, so I can fit the circlips properly.
Overall, nice clean neat job.
Thanks for the comments,and additional info
Love all your videos Steve . Please swop out those wheel stud extensions for longer wheel studs and proper wheel spacers .
Thanks for the comments Terry, yes that is something I need to do as those were on the car and will be replaced
@@D3Sshooter I was pretty sure you had already realized they were poorly engineered . I remain in awe of your knowledge , energy and enthusiasm !! .
Another superb “how to” series. Can’t thank you enough for all your detailed and easy to understand videos. Just wondering how and how easy it is to get the Pot part of the pot joint out of the Diff?
Love the FART joke!🏁
Thanks for the comments... life is all about fun
Could you let me know where you got these shafts from. I can’t seem to find ready assembled ones anywhere like this. Also any new pot joint you get comes pre assembled. How will you fit this if you purchase one? Coukd really appreciate the help.
Love the attention to detail in all of your videos.
Would you be able to say if the suspension arm bushes for a Mini would fit my 1100 (ADO16). I’m unable to source a set my model but thought the mini ones would be the same.
I will be tackling this job soon and thought I’d replace these bushes at the same time as they are the originals from 50+ years ago!
Thanks for the comments, The best would be to measure the bushes and then see as there are many variants. In general that should fit
when are we going to see the first start of old rusty? lovely engine sound !!! thank you .
Thanks for the comments, yes and it will be a premiere on youtube as soon as i have the parts for the carburetor
I have learned a lot from your videos. Without them I would not even have started working on our Mini's!
I see you have spacers on your front wheels, I would like them too. How do I install wheel spacers?
Thanks in advance.
Well you will need a good set and typical they come with new bolds, as the original bolds ( for the wheels) might be to short. Its just a matter of fitting them , very easy
Brilliant video, thanks for the english, from an English man in France !! / Dave's 1987 Mini rebuild project (Facebook)
Cool, thanks!
@@D3Sshooter Did you fit the back plates later ??
Should there not be a locking tab plate for the two steering arm bolts?
You should torque hub nut using special washer first then remove and fit coned washer and re torque
Thanks for the comments
Looks good! Are you going to keep it or sell it when you're finished? Thanks Steve see ya next time...
Thanks for the comments Darryl, I keep all the cars that I restore or work on. I am kind of stuck to it.. I buy them as abandoned projects or total loss and then try to recover them
Thats not me FARTING!.............Makes a change lol....
Great information as usual. I just heard you mention a premiere... I missed that and would have really enjoyed a chance to chat.Any plans for another anytime Steve? Thanks.
Thanks for the comments, yes there is one planned for the first run-up of the engine ( Old Rusty)..on a stand.... The invite will be send in time so everybody can see it. I might even go life
@@D3Sshooter wow a live old Rusty engine first turnover would be great, I'm sure a lot of us D3Sshooter supporters would like to share if able to !
Great video. Is there a video of removing this from the car? In your Mini Playlist, this part three video comes up two times in a row. Is there an error in the uploaded files?
Thanks for the comments, yes there is a section in part 1 of this series that shows the removal in birds flight
Are you done with the Lotus? I know you were getting close but I don't think it was ever quite finished. I would like to see it on the road. Thanks, great videos.
Thanks for the comments, still in need for light caps , I will do one soon and a road trip
I could of sworn Bearings its to loosen a bit to where the cotter pin lines up while a balljoint like for steering is to tighten to the next hole to line up. I haven't touched automotive in awhile but that's what i remember.
Thanks for the comments, its here a step-up to align it
The Haynes manual says you should make up a thick washer to ensure the driveshaft is fully located in the hub before final assembly. Is this required?
Thanks for the comments, I never had to...Off course you need to make sure that shaft fits properly
Hi mate great video, I’m doing the same job and I’ve noticed that there’s play in the driveshaft when I pull it towards me and push it back in towards the engine is this normal?
Thanks for the comments, yes that is normal and needs to be in place for lateral changes as long as the plat you refer to is latteral
Hi !
Where do you find your tork spec please, I am doin the same job as you but on the internet i read all sort of things :/
Thank you a lot, you help me you dont know how much !
I have some old workshop manual for the mini , and that is what I use. You can also check the bearing manufactor specs
@@D3Sshooter hi, thank you for the reply.
Ill continue to search, i have to rebuild all the front subframe and put the engine in.
Thanks again
Don't worry Shooter, I've pushed too hard on things and let a fart go too. It happens to the best of us.
Thanks for the comments , so funny
It needs more headlights.
Thanks for the comments , yes I think so to.. The only problem is when I turn them on the engine will stall lol
the rubber bush on the black lower control arm looked a bit rotten
Thanks for the comments, yes and is to be replaced
If you love British cars, why not buy an MGB? You could help a lot of owners (including myself), next to Mini owners. You could be the New Belgian 🇧🇪 John Twist! But with outstanding video quality. 👍🏻
Thanks for the comments, I do have a MGB GT V8 and some video's on it... I might make a couple more
some outer CV joints have 2 holes and you do not need to tighten these ones up so tight 150 lb ft not 193 lb ft
Thanks for the comments Hunter, indeed those are the types with the two wholes .. Aa stated in the beginning, this about this specific type. But good point that you mention it here again
Why do you have the dangerous chines break calipers on the Mini and not geniune original AP-Lockheed ?
Thanks for the comments, not sure if they are dangerous...
@@D3Sshooter The chines ones are dangerous because they break.. No compromise on brake systhem please! . Only use high quality original parts from AP-LOCKHEED / CAPARO!
@@simontemplar4093 Thanks, is that not the idea "Braking" Sorry just joking . But you are right, the thing is that these were on the car before. I guess I should have checked. Much appreciated.
@@D3Sshooter Sorry, i mean „break“ … ;-)
Threadlocker??? When are we going to see the video of your girl friend and you taking a drive in Old Sporty?
Thanks for the comments, I will ask if she wants...But if you want to see my girlfriend, well then check this while she does yoga...th-cam.com/video/KFvQW6wpjRQ/w-d-xo.html
.
I want to buy a used car from you!!!
Thanks for the comments Pat, The only thing is , that I can't part from what I recover or restore...
Not enough grease , grease , grease. Also we did it all on the ground in the old days.
Thanks for the comments
4 commercials in less then 30 minutes? :(
Thanks for the comments , really, that is strange...
Don’t really mind the ads that is how you pay for this. Is funny that Cadillac really thinks I might buy one ha ha!
Yes and the commercials are getting really bad. All about Tampons😡
Did Steve just let slip he has a wife *and* a girlfriend? 😀
Steve has a lovely girlfriend... no wife only an X wife...
What kind of thread is on CV Joint...? 7/8 but UNC or UNF?