CV Drive Shaft/Prop Shaft Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2017
- Step by step instructions on how to rebuild your CV style drive shaft. If you happen to need this kit for a '01-'07 Dakota or Durango, select one of the following links.
Cheapest kit, likely made in China: amzn.to/2p61uwW
Dorman mid-grade kit, replacement part: amzn.to/2pnt09W
Rebuilt front drive shaft: amzn.to/2ow7Ja2
OEM NEW front drive shaft: www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...
Filming equipment:
Go Pro Hero 7 Black - amzn.to/2zY1sLT
Go Pro Hero 7 Black WITH SD cards and batteries - amzn.to/2zXxR54
Accessory kit - amzn.to/2ZWIQXc
iPhone 8 Plus space gray 256GB - amzn.to/2O0JMHG
Tags:
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Of all the videos I watched on TH-cam, this one is the Best! Just replaced the CV Joint on front drive shaft on 2006 Jeep Commander 4.7l. Was not difficult at all, main thing is don't get in a hurry and be sure to pack the bearings really good and use the entire tube of grease. The only thing different for me is that I used a heavy duty plastic zip tie rather than the metal band that came in the product. The reason being is that I didn't have the tool to tighten the metal band with and the Heavy Duty plastic zip tie made more sense and was easier. This video was most useful!
@Aussie101 Zip tie worked perfect and is still holding. Be sure and use a heavy duty one and you will be fine.
My 2004 jeep liberty is going through this right now ,mechanic couldn't get me a new one so he sent it out to be refurbished 10 days without a vehicle , everything is so slow these days but the mechanic says once he gets the part it's an easy install,
This is THE BEST video I have come across. But I have some info on my specific car/application:
I have a 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee WK, 5.7 with QuadraDrive II. - The oem driveshaft had a gasket on BOTH sides of the bearing assembly. The indented side/non-passthru cap as you showed, and the other smooth flat side. Gasket on both sides of the bearing assembly, as you did.
Just if anyone else is wondering. And the channel locks part is amazing! Never thought of that!!! Great tip for DIY’ers. - And I am going to use a ziptie so I’m glad I keep seeing people say it works.
I just ordered the upgrade to my factory front driveshaft the other day. After seeing this, im going to keep my old one and rebuild it. Why not? It gives me an excuse to play with my tools and make my wife think I'm a mechanical wizard. Kudos to you my friend... you've definitely leveled up on your mancard status. Bravo sir...
Haha thanks. And yes, great idea to keep the old one!
Great video. The only thing missing is the noise it made during diagnosis. I replaced my differential after many recommendations and diagnosis by my local shop only to find out it wasn't the source.
Oh man I'd be upset.
3:55 "There it goes, gone forever". Yep, I've definitely said that before lol. Thank you for the video! It helped a lot!
Haha. Every time!
I just got the boot rebuild kit. I probably should've shelled out the extra and got the entire rebuild kit and replace the bearings too while I have it open. You did a good job on this video.
The correct way to use the band is you tension it away from the clamp and bend it back over into the groove for the tabs and then bend the tabs to lock it down.
Glad someone else knew that too
Awesome stuff man, I gotta tackle this on my Honda S2000 soon. This helps tremendously, stay safe and keep doing your thing.
Awesome job - very well done! This is super helpful.
I'm going to use a table saw as my work bench from here on out.
🤣🤣
This video helped me replace the CV bearing on the front driveshaft with a dorman part. I would have not known to drop the crossmember a little to make room for getting the driveshaft out. Thankyou
Glad I could help!
Excellent description in details, pretty straight forward !!! thanks
Lordco up here in Canada 1100 for the shaft no rebuild kit available but on the jungle web site under 150. Rebuild available under fifty what a world thank you tony and the utubes
Cool, thank you. I currently have same year truck 4wd but with a 3.9v6 somewhat gas saver lol plus don't want or feel get stuck in the snow this year.
Hopefully mine just needs rebuilt. The shaft has jerking knock play in transfercase it has forwards backwards.
I haven't even tried the 4wd since I bought my truck 2 weeks.
Noticed this noise from it when I looking it over, compare to notes from previous owner has said he has touched, done or expected.
I praying to dodge/dsm god, I don't need replace transfer case too, just only replace fluid only.
Rear diff, is fine and rear drive shaft too.
Did get good deal on my truck even though guy lied about what he had done to it.
Basically, it what it needs Not what he fixed. Ya fun fun.
Do really need insulate my garage, before, This winter so I could do this plus few things to my daily work car backup.
This video was very helpful today. Thank you for posting!
Very informative, It will help immensely
Thank you. I see ma y failure points in these.. needs dual gaskets or additional gasket maker. Where the rubber meets metal needs a sealant also.
This vid saved me the 500 bucks it would have cost to put a new front shaft in my 03 Durango! Thanks!
Thanks excelent vídeo and explication. Very clear .
You can wrap that metal band around the boot twice and then clip it down. I don't believe it matters all that much as after what you did it won't go anywhere. I think you should show how to keep the shaft aligned to the transfer case and front differential when reinstalling it. I think it could be really helpful. Great video!
Removal and installation procedures for the shaft is going to vary by vehicle, which is why I didn’t show it here. The shaft was out of an ‘02 Dakota but the video is a generic video for all CV shafts.
Looks like the fluted center bearing race may have gone in backwards. Came here just trying to figure this out for my Ranger/Explorer CV joint, but from watching what few vids there are about these drive shaft CV joints, it looks like the smooth face of that center race faces outwards, and the face with the raised lip faces the boot. Don't know how much difference it makes.
Just found another Dakota video about this, showing the same thing as here: old joint has the smooth face facing the snap ring, new joint has the raised boss side facing outwards. Don't know if the part comes assembled that way already. The Ranger/Explorer joints look the same, and the vids all show the smooth side of the old joint facing out as well. The replacement joint I got comes disassembled, so that's what I'm looking into.
Yeah that’s how this one came assembled. I don’t think it matters about the smooth surface vs the rough surface against the snap ring since everything is splined and shouldn’t be spinning against each other anyways.
I swaped on out on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It I a similar problem the transfer case side the boot was cracked and the bearings had dried grease and dirt stuck in them and did not want to move well and rattled when I tried move the cv front drive shaft. Once I had it off of the truck I replaced it with a USA direct brand I bought online from eBay seller was ilikepepper I payed a little under $150 free shipping the new part was ready to install pre grease larger end cap on the differtial side but fit in like was the right part and wrong was the on I removed. The Jeep sounds great now. I have by the rebuild kit and some paint to redue the old one i removed.
Old trick to pack bearings. Use a 2qt freezer bad wipe grease on surfaces put bearing in bag and squeeze the air out of the bag zip it. Then work grease in by manipulating the bag. Won't loose any bearings and more complete penetration.
Thanks dude! Now I have an extra 250 bucks to spend on something else! This kit is legit!
So at 10:38 you don't put or need lube on the spline mating surfaces because this particular design the spline doesn't slide like other applications. At 12:08 it is better to put the sharp edge of the snap ring out, the direction of the force side, to get the best engagement to the grove.
On a Ford Explorer, save your old metal dust cover with the air hole in it because the new one didn't go in like he shown, and
mine chingered up, I was able to easily reuse the old undamaged one. I think next time if the dust cover looks real tight I would take a few thousands off the circumference.
My old CV joint had some play at the spline but the replacement was a tight fit, great!
Thank's, you were a great help to solve the mysteries from not doing this job before and not knowing how it comes apart!
It actually does move ever so slightly on the splines. Millimeters, but it does. The lube also will help of this ever needs to come apart again. As far as the snap ring goes, this snap ring didn’t have a “sharp edge”.
fantastic video. thank you!!!!
Hey also thanks for the links extremely helpful.
THANK YOU!!! To whom it may concern: 4:29 his cv practically falls off the spline. Mine, and the one I got from the junk yard (both were still packed with grease) had to be pounded off, and I mean pounded! 2006 Sienna
Thx 👍
My vehicle is 2000 Jeep laredo 4.0 and only 2 have the shaft 34 in 22 weld only diff is the ends can i make with new kit change the propellar ends
thanks - really helpful video. Will be replacing on my 04 Dodge Ram 1500. Did you have to make any markings when removing the drive shaft in order to line it up when re-installing?
I did not make any marks because I think the bolt holes were all evenly spaced apart but that would be a great idea to prevent any mishaps, even if you just use a sharpie or something.
i'm in canada. all the parts stores say there is no rebuild kit, that the whole driveshaft needs to be rebuilt. but i saw that the '05-'10 grand cherokee uses the same cv joint/prop shaft. priced it out, $300 up here. but ya, that's about $50-$60 US.
Just bought a Dodge Durango and this helps clear up what I suspected the noise was when I get on the gas hard. It sounds like a CV joint clicking from behind the drivers seat someplace.
My same experience on 05 Ram 1500:. I replaced both CV axles and a wheel hub and clicking CV sound didn't go away... then found the dust boot gone on frt drive shaft... haven't got it yet, but this must be it. Ringing sound under acceleration and clicking is intermittent.
If I remove the shaft is it okay to drive it that way until I get my rebuild kit?
@@bowlsantander9730 it wasnt the drive shaft on mine, it ended up being the transfercase chain was stretched out and slipping on the gears inside. I replaced the chain and it was quiet.
@@94sn95gt Thx Tom. Maybe I need to get inside that Transfer case and see if my 05 Ram needs one of those too...
good video it doesn't look like a hard job
Hi Tony good work you make it look easy. Question, I have a 2005 Kia Sorento with the exact driveshaft and I can't get the bearing of the house on the transmission, is there a special puller that you know of that will separate the bearing from the trans housing.
I'm guessing it's just rusted in there real good if you have all the bolts out. You can try to jar it with a hammer or pry it out with a pry bar, but off the top of my head, I'm not aware of any special puller for that. That's not to say they don't make one though, I just haven't seen one.
Nice job! Saw these kits for $34 bucks. Local guy wanted $464 to replace the whole shaft. I hosed the bad boot with white lithium grease until I get the drive shaft out. I hear you can drive it w/o until you can rebuild it. Jeep GC project. Seems like a rusty spline and land will determine if you need the whole drive shaft replaced.
Yep, as long as the one yoke is still in the transfer case preventing oil from slinging out, you should have no issue in 2wd.
Now I see that the front U joint is non serviceable on another video. No wonder why the whole thing needs replacement. :( Trying to order a new shaft on O'reillys web site and there is an internal service error 505, what the h#ll.
Why is it non serviceable? Mine appeared to be.
It's punched around the bearings, no clips, plastic, etc. Probably a OEM Mopar drive shaft. Yours has internal retaining rings. Trying to get my bolts loose as we speak, see if I can DIY.
Mine is also OEM but I guess I never looked at that end very closely. Is your U joint actually bad on the front?
Thats awesome thought need a press but you show easy way. Also have a question so i got the right lenght and shaft for my Jeep just had the wrong ends its a on both ends cv type a propeller the shaft is correct was told. Now if i order the correct ends i have new boots on this just need correct size shaft bearing ends for it . If i order the correct kit can I swap it out.
I’m not going to say it’s impossible, but I’ve never seen anyone change the shaft from CV to the other style. It’s just more work than it’s worth. You’re better off getting the proper shaft used or aftermarket probably.
03:51 I flinched hard
Prices range $170 down to $30.99 for a Dorman replacement. The best price came from AM-Autoparts.com. Their part # is-- AM-30303764 -- On a Commander, the support cross shaft must be allowed to drop on one side while the other side hangs on loosened 16mm fasteners. The trans and transfer box needs to remain supported with a jack. The reason for the cross member drop is to allow enough wiggle room to get the driveshaft diameter out from the frame and cross member.
that looks so simple. I have to do that tomorrow on my 1999 Mercury Mountaineer AWD
how long does it call for labor wise?
the video was extremely helpful.thabk you very much for posting the video
It really all depends on how experienced you are, what kind of condition the vehicle and fasteners are in, what tools you have, what vehicle it is, etc., not all shafts are the same, so I recommend looking at it before you get started. This one probably took me 2 hours start to finish because I didn't jack up the truck at all and all I had was hand tools. Plus filming added some time.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy the setup you were doing was identical as the one on my Mercury Mountaineer. it took me 1 hour to take it off and put it back together onto my SUV. great learning experience from your video. thanks for the video.
@@chadhoffman6989 Awesome! Glad it went well!
Good video. have the same problem and cure for my 2007 Jeep Commander 4.7.
What came off or was loosened to drop this shaft? Cross Member under the trans/and case? All the way off or just one side drop and other side just loose?
This was off of a Dakota so there was no skid plates or anything to remove. Just have to unbolt and drop the shaft. Unfortunately it’s going to be trial and error for other applications but if I was you, I’d just get the whole skid plate out of the way.
Hello there, thanks for the video. Unfortunately I'm facing a similar situation with my front shaft joint. Just that, what happened to mine was that I lost some of the bolts that holds things together and go all the way around the joint and some broke into the stationary hub part of it. What should be my first move on it? Any suggestions?
Unfortunately, you’d need a new hardware kit and try to extract the broken bolts with a welder or reverse drill bits. Otherwise, the yoke would need to be replaced. I don’t have a video showing that procedure though.
Great video ! I think you just convinced me to do a repair opposed to complete replacement of course it the splines are in good shape. Thank you Van
No problem, good luck!
Will a bad one of these hum
A great help. Thank you! I had to beat mine off with a sledge hammer. Ugh. LOL
Yeah, mine didn’t come quietly either lol
Do you know where I could find a full already built driveshaft for a 2015 ram 1500
I would go to the Google or Amazon or eBay. They generally run a good $250-$300 or more though. I’d either rebuild it yourself or buy a used one at a local junk yard for around $80-$100.
Boa tarde no 🚖 táxi João pessoa PB 🌵🇧🇷
Just what needed!!
I came across this video while I’m doing this on my 01 Durango. Superb video by the way. I had to put a 3 jaw puller on the cv joint and beat it for hours and use heat to remove it. Now my problem is the new ( dorman) cv will not go on. Is it ok to hammer it home or is there something wrong with my shaft. Any thoughts?
Make sure the spline count is the same on the new CV and the shaft. Also if the shaft splines are really rusty, remove as much rust as you can with a wire brush or wire wheel. If it STILL doesn’t want to go in nicely, you should in theory be fine to pound it on since the slip shaft is on the other end, so long as it’s not such a tight fit that it splits the inner bearing carrier.
Tony The Truck Guy thanks for the reply. I did use a wire wheel and a half moon file to get it to bare metal. It wasn’t really that rusty when I finally removed the bearing. The new one will only go on about a 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch and becomes tight. So I will grease up the splines and try pounding it on. I got it on, thanks for your help..
No problem at all, glad you got it to work!
Eye wear on those rings, Dude!
🤣
I have a volvo xc90 t6 2003 that I have just removed the shaft and will complete the front rebuild using this outstanding tutorial. However, my shaft has a center section as well similar to the one that I am going to rebuild. Where can can I get those parts?
Had to look up a picture of an Xc90 shaft to see what you meant and that thing is goofy lol. Damn Volvo. Looks like it would be same or similar steps to rebuild the other end of the shaft as well, but it’s likely a different kit. I would see if there’s any rebuild kits available on Google or Rock Auto. Some of them foreign cars they make you buy the whole damn drive shaft for like $1000 though. Sprinters are like that.
Dag! That was quick. Thanks. Gonna check on that soon. I will just leave it out for now until I can get the rebuild kit. Flatland here so don't really need the awd right now.
As long as you don’t get whacked with a blizzard haha. Let us know how it all pans out.
Hey tony, do you know what the torque is for the 6 bolts then the front 4 bolts?
I do not. But I’m sure the 4 bigger ones could easily take 50 ft lbs and the smaller ones probably no more than 15/20 ft lbs
Might need to use a hammer to get the bearing off...ha ha ha I have sprayed it with PB blaster and been beating it with a punch and ball peen and it isn't budging! Great instructions, mine is just being stubborn.
Gotta love rust.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy ha ha right? Every video says, "you may need to use a hammer" and I just laugh. That's just how it goes sometimes!
I just had to replace one on my ford explore sport trac. There is no rebuilt kit for the 2010 you have to buy a complete rear drive shaft Aouto zone wants 800 plus I had one order for 600 plus
ISH!
You got a great video there! I was wondering if you can offer some advice? I'm pulling a drive shaft out of a Chevy Equinox which is a similar as you have. However the front of the CV joint of the drive shaft is stuck in the hub of the transfer case. I tapped on it with a hammer and used the hammer and a chisel and I'm starting to leave witness marks. Any tips on getting the seized joint off without destroying anything?
If you can slip a pry bar behind it, that may work best. Otherwise no choice but to really keep working it with the hammer, maybe switch to a punch or something with more surface area to reduce damage. Also sounds dumb but DOUBLE CHECK all fasteners are removed lol.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy what do you think of this extreme idea. With the bolts out. Foot on the brakes then pop it in gear briefly?
Double checked all the bolts are out
You can try but it’s a gamble. Drive shaft may pop out and smack something
Slide hammer?
Supposed to fold the tail back over before folding down the tabs.
I assume you mean on the clamp?
What brand is the best, or thereabouts, ya think?
I have a 2007 Jeep Liberty that keeps whipping the t-case end cv-type joint on the front driveshaft. Mopar original lasted 85,000 miles. First Chinese one $100, 6,000 miles, 2nd $160 driveshaft lasted 11,000 miles. Ridiculous. 😆
New Mopar shaft is $500.
NAPA rebuilt is $400-500ish.
Custom made with u-joints, from 4x4 shop is $500 too.
Highest priced rebuild kits for one end is $100+.
Some people say they heat up their bearings in water and boil for long time, dry well, and then rub in grease. Then repeat. Is this really necessary? Or is it like washing a $30 organic chicken off with hot tap before ya boil it? Lol
Sounds like OEM is best bet but it's also the most expensive. Also I would check out the Jeep or have a shop check it out and see if there's any obvious reason why it keeps taking shafts out so quickly. That doesn't seem right.
My 07 Jeep Liberty has a front driveshaft like this end you worked on, on the t-case end. It fails constantly. Every 6,000 to 18,000 miles. I've replaced the driveshaft 6 times inside 65,000 miles. The boots don't last. Poor design. Gravel and junk get stuck in them and rip it open.
Yeah it really is a poor design unless you can find one with quality boots
Is there a place that still makes the rebuild kits I have a 99 Dodge Grand caravan and one of mine went out and I can't find a rebuild kit anywhere
I assume for the Grand Caravan, you're talking about rebuilding one of the CV shafts that actually drives the wheels? I wasn't finding any rebuild kits, but you can get a whole new shaft for like $75 at O'Reilly Auto Parts, etc. I only rebuilt my drive shaft because a new shaft was like $600 and used was over $200. The rebuild kit was about $120.
lmao popcorn fart too funny
Would this CV joint cause banging when u let off the gas pedal if it was really gone
It’s definitely possible. I would also chalk the rear wheels and put vehicle in neutral then rock the drive shaft back and forth. You may also have a bad u-joint.
Thanks for the info I have the parts coming should do the u joints anyway truck is close 400 kks just did the tranny rebuild blew my budget will see how how it goes after the repair
My CRV is shivering when I hit 70 for few seconds. I have already changed all 4 tyres in it with proper alignment and no sound from the wheels when turning. What could be the issue?. Someone said it could be the bad CV joint! Is it possible
There’s many possibilities with so many moving parts, so you’d have to carefully inspect each component, but it is possible. Likely the CV shaft they are talking about is one that goes to the wheels from the transmission though not the actual drive shaft
Do you have video of taking driveshaft out of vehicle
Unfortunately I do not. It was just like 4 bolts on 1 end and like 6 to on the other, but they are different size bolt heads.
Does this require the driveshaft to be rebalanced after rebuild?
It’s never a bad idea to get the shaft balanced but it’s not required. I did not balance this one and there’s no issues. The piece for the rebuild is symmetrical as well as the bolt pattern so there should be no issues.
The problem I have with my 1999 Dodge is when you accelerate you start hearing a clinking or whenever you turn right or left you'll hear it but if you get it to a steady speed it sounds OK Could this be the Fix for my problem?
It could be this. The front drive shaft on my Jeep was doing the same thing. But it could also be just one of the front CV shafts too. Best to jack up the steer axle and shake some stuff to see what’s loose.
Good job. I hate those little metal band things. They are such a P.I.T.A. to install if you are working alone. But aren't you supposed to put the long end of the band through the loop and pull it tight (like you did), but then bend it back over itself the other direction and pinch it with the two side tabs? That way the tabs aren't holding it together, the bend back over itself is. I hope I'm explaining this well. The tabs just prevent the bend from undoing itself. The tabs don't provide much clamping force, even if you mash down on them with a punch.
What time in the video are you referring to?
Around 14:40. RealFixesRealFast has a good video (titled "Explorer Propeller Joint") showing what I'm talking about. They use a special tool to make it easier, but its not really required.
Oh haha, THAT thing. Yeah, it’s totally possible I missed something there. Normally I use the OEM clamp or a normal hose clamp or just a zip tie so I kind of just made it work. I’ve never had to mess with one like this before.
Intro song from asking alexandria?
Parkway Drive - Karma. But I do like me some Asking Alexandria 😋
Napa Auto parts wants $219 for the CV drive shaft kit, I ordered my online
Yeah that’s a bit much haha
Same here. Just looked up for an 08 Commander and it's $177. Like, damn....
Is that what makes click noise?
It can cause a clicking yes. It could also be cv shafts though if you have them so make sure to pinpoint the noise first.
Looks like most the work is fucking around with the grease lol. I have yet to do this job, I bet if I just drilled a small 8th inch hole thru the cap on that grease accordion and it might save me some mess.
Haha yeah, I freaking hate dealing with grease.
Will a bad one of these make a branding noise
Uhhhhh you mean like a sizzling noise? Lol. Usually not.
Grinding, it sounds like bad brake pads but the pads are good .
It’s possible. In my case, it was making the same noise that a bad CV shaft or wheel bearing might make. I’d recommend pulling your front drive shaft, then drive the truck to see if the noise goes away.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Exactly..Grand Cherokee just failed, sounds like a clacking, crunching sound because the cv knuckle was binding with bad bearings and the spline end was worn so it would slip off the transfer case gear causing a clicking sound. The rebuilder could not rebuild it due the worn spline, so he quoted me $460 for a reman, parts store has a chinese made for $260, or I can try a junk yard but you don't know what you are getting, of course you can always refuse it. For now it's staying off and used as two wheel drive, I'll decide after the summer what to do.
I ended up just getting a used one at the junkyard for about $100 when the front shaft on my grand went out. Held up fine until I got rid of the Jeep. I guess I’d rather have used OEM than new Chinese. A lot of salvage yards lost the vehicle mileage from the donor so maybe you can find a low mileage one.
Is almost the same from grand cherokee
Dude you FUCKING ROCK! Thank you very much for making this vid dickhead! Awesome!! Love the part where the snap ring goes flying, "yup gone forever". LMFAO! Thanks man!
What socket/size did you use to take off the 6 little bolts initially? Thanks in advance
Ugh I can’t remember 100%, I want to say 5/16” or 8mm - basically the same thing. Something keeps telling me they had Allen socket heads but that doesn’t sound right. Hope I’m close.
Tony The Truck Guy it was an 8, I was just using a socket that was too short the shoulder was hitting the flange. My new kit came with Allen’s... I ended up using the old ones. Thanks again! Works perfect
Come to think of it, I’m pretty sure that’s exactly what I did too lol. Explains why I couldn’t remember if Allen’s or 8mm.
Whats the difference between cv drive shaft and rear drive shaft
CV is just a style of shaft. CV (constant velocity) are the shafts with the rubber accordion looking boots on them instead of u-joint. Typically, I would refer to like front wheel drive car axle shafts as CV shafts, and actual drive shafts like this or rear drive shaft I just call them drive shafts.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy just wondered. I have a 2014 journey and the dealer said rubber from a shaft was worn but my private mechanic place said the rear drive shaft is fine. Could that be a part to another shaft?
@@jeremyladue4702 Yeah the dealer may have meant your front CV shafts that actually drive the front wheels.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy ok because they said it was a part that connects to the engine. A 3rd party warranty company had my engine replaced at the dealer and then the dealer told me theres rubber missing from a shaft. I feel a kick at times when its driving and I wonder if the issue is that one you just told me the name of
@@jeremyladue4702 Yeah, I believe the Journey’s are primarily front wheel drive, then has a rear drive shaft that sends power to the rear wheels if you have the AWD version. I’m guessing that the rubber boot is ripped on one of your front CV shafts that comes out of the transmission and goes to the wheels. If the boot rips, all the grease can fling out and debris can get it, causing the CV to fail.
I can drive without the bar leave it alone at 2wd thank you
????
Was that supposed to be a question? Lol. Not sure what bar you're talking about.
Yes sorry , I have 2006 Ford Explorer thank you .
So what is the question?
The front drive shaft for the 4wd ? Thank you .
i'm gonna get a punch....uses screwdriver, haha, works, all good, well done
I got all the bolts out but I can't get the fucking drive shaft out
You should be able to knock it loose by tapping with a hammer or trying to get between the shaft and the yokes of the rear end and transfer case with a pry bar.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy yaa I got it out i just had to get a hammer and break it free
$100 for a brand new one, I’d just buy a new one
Where are you finding a brand new one for $100?
Just bought one for my CRD 2.8 05 liberty
Ah. In the case of my Dakota, it was over $300 for a new one unfortunately.
Joshua Rayborn dodge parts been sold out for a while.