Nice video! A tip is to run them at max setting about 10 minutes before turning of, to reduce soot build up and clogging. Have 3 of these heaters, and first one got clogged up. Can be cleaned up and restored , but that is a booring task. Trust me :) cheers from Sweden
You’re in danger of gassing yourself there - couple of improvements. Lay the unit on it’s side and have the first joint and the whole exhaust outside. This joint is notorious for failing and CO leaks. In campers they have a turret plate to allow that joint to go outside. Better to site the unit outside and pull the intake inside if you want the warm air to be heated. If you place inside you can put it on its side needs glow plug on top but the unit first exhaust joint would be sealed outside. Good luck ! You MUST get a carbon monoxide monitor/alarm. Videos are great
The oxygen for combustion is being drawn from inside the heated space. As the oxygen is depleted the heater will draw oxygen in from outside and with it cold air. The air/oxygen intake should be placed to the outside to prevent the drawing of cold air into the heated space. This is why fireplaces that are not using combustion air from the outside create cold in the extremities of the heated space, ie: a draft.
Also they are only spot welded together and not sealed ....allowing carbon monoxide to escape ! Please mount them outdoors only ! ( Try filling it up with water, you'll find they leak everywhere . )
Yeah that exhaust 100% needs to vent out completely, them pipe are renowned for braking down leaking exhaust gases inside, I’m sure you can mount them on there side also battery is a must ! not power pack mate if you have a power cut your melt the inside ect buddy they can’t go off when hot
Run the exhaust through a domestic heating radiator angled to drain condensation outside. Corrugated stainless gas pipe will connect the heater to the radiator. Ordinary 22mm plumbing will take the exhaust outside.
A solid piece of advice for anyone buying these cheap heaters be very careful they don’t go up in smoke, a number of these have, I work for a major manufacturer of air and water heaters.
Would be good to know for safety reasons what it's it that causes them to do this , is it bad fitment or mechanical failure, or design flaws? There must be ways to eliminate or reduce the risk
Maybe because these heaters are so good and you work in the competing UK traditional heating industry Mr @paulhands2763 your talking shyte as your see these heaters as a threat
I fitted a cab heater (Eberspacher) in my workshop over 25 years ago before the cheap versions were available, as others have pointed out it is preferable to run the instalation via a 12v battery and battery charger, this will ensure correct shut down procedure in the event of a mains powe failure. Even if its running when the power fails eventually the low battery voltage wiill shut the until down correctly without damage.
Thank you. Now I'm definitely going to run mine on a battery with a trickle charger. Do I need a marine battery or just a regular battery since I'll be using a trickle charger? Just a regular battery right?
FYI for others that want to install these. With a single wall shed, the heater should have been mounted on its side with the exhaust and combustion air external and glowplug at top. The golden rule is big pipes inside and small pipes outside. Under certain fault conditions there is always a chance of combustion air exiting the inlet, so another reason for keeping the small pipes outside. Always fit a CO detector.
@@cfcyayaya Just depends how many power cuts you might get. There is a argument by some for having a battery capable of starting and shutdown with a smart charger. The what if scenario then comes into play. For there to be any chance of damage( I don't subscribe to the theory) the heater would have to be flat out for a while at exactly the same time as the mains fails - bookies odds?. The battery and smart charger could cost more than the motherboard. For me I assume that those that advocate a battery etc have a standby generator to power the fridge, freezer, boiler etc just in case the mains fails. Backup water supply and so on.
So does the unit automatically enter the power down mode when the fuel runs low? Also if my power goes out and I have the battery setup will the heater just keep running or will it enter the power down mode? I want to install mine with the battery and tricke charger.
@@whoisthis3512 hi I ran mine on a battery and trickle charger in a mobile home for 2 years with no problems. I now have the unit in a van that charges my second battery from main battery when van is running. It's a bit more fiddly setting it up as you should run inline fuses between the 2 batteries and a switch to stop charging so you don't flatten your van start up battery but well worth it, i would highly recommend these units for cheap and easy way to heat garage mobile home caravan and campers. I also have been running it on kerosene which is half the price of diesel here and I think in my own opinion it burns cleaner than the diesel and just as warm.
I'm glad you showed the exhaust and talked about it. I keep seeing these online where people run the exhaust into their building, to save fuel--a huge problem and asking for trouble, in my opinion. It is difficult to convince some people that you can't burn fuel in an enclosed space without venting to the outside.
I would definitely consider moving the silencer outside. The less joints you have inside, the less chance of leaks and there is a small hole in the bottom of the silencer for condensation drips so they can let fumes through. Enjoy your vids too much to loose you.
Nice job. I've got a Chinese one I've been meaning to fiit in my workshop, this might just spur me on, that and the cold weather. You might want to fit a carbon monoxide alarm, keep yourself safe!
One suggestion : Replace the full line from the pump to the heater with ridged plastic fuel line . The green line softens up a bit and you will eventually get a “ low fuel “ error from the controller . The pulse pump only produces 0.02 mm of fuel per pulse and the green tubing expands a little bit and the sensor will turn off the heater with a “ low fuel “ warning .
Yeah the correct fuel line diameter is very important on those units it won't work if you don't have the right size hole you'll get too much or not enough fuel, the hole inside that fuel line is so small it's like a pin can barely fit in there it's it's incredibly small
you should use the exhaust to heat water or for steam for a put it trough a Double Convex Radiator mounted on the wall. the exhaust on these things easily hits 200C. so hot enough to boil or heat water.
Those silencers leak like sieves. Not just the drain hole but the ends are only tacked on. Sucking combustion air from inside will exacerbate the leakage by lowering the pressure in the shed. Make sure to have a working CO detector. Also, put a battery in the supply so a sudden power interruption can't damage the unit.
2 things i would put the combustion air intake outside. having it inside means that you have to suck cold air from outside for combustion. 2: i would probably un cover the exhaust, cant hurt the little extra heating. :D
Always great videos as always Martin. I just installed my Diesel air heater as well, they work amazingly for the price. Since your running the exhaust through the wall, just straight pipe it outside with no muffler. You will find much better airflow, wth about a 5"F/8''F increase. Noise is hardly increased with that little muffler removed. For my setup, I used 3/4 copper tubing, and zero back pressure. The Flexi pipe in the kit makes many ripples in the flow due to the ribbing. 60107 USA says hi.
Looks a nice install. Just be aware the silencer is only spot welded together. So it isn't gas tight around the edges, meaning some exhaust will end up inside.
As someone who also relies on a diesel heater for workshop warmth... may I suggest (humbily) a CO detector? For not much money, it could be a great edition. Over time the gaskets can seep - it's rare but does happen.. Good video and be well. ( I wrote this before watching the whole vid, You mentioned getting one ;)
hi martin had one in my mancave for past 2 years and it works a treat, same here what evojigger just mentioned with the exhaust box having a hole in / drain hole .i put the exhaust pipe through the shed with the box on the outside
Great description thanks i built a garden gym for me and grandson its got a electric fan when other appliances are on in house such as kettle tumbler dryer oven it jumps from 79 pence a hour to over 2 quid an hour , Ive got a friend coming to fit me one of these in gym im not clued up on this luckily he comverts camper vans lookin forward to it hopefully it should stop him getting damp air on lungs and me too. Thanks
The exhaust bandage holds the heat in the system, which saves on fuel, plus the machine warms up quicker than without. Thanks for your vidios, very helpful, Paul.
Just a suggestion. I would run the combustion air intake (thin pipe) from outside, as particularly in winter, when you need it most, the air is cold and therefore more dense, making for a more efficient burn. Think intercoolers in turbo engines. Where you have it at the moment, it will be flowing less dense air the warmer the inside space becomes. If you choose to do that with the cold air inlet, make sure it is a good distance away from the exhaust outlet. You don't want to be sucking in exhaust gases! Cheers mate. All the best.
That's not exactly correct. I work with large power and recovery boilers. They are 10 stories tall. We pre-heat the combustion air with heat exchangers fed by the boilers flu gas to recover the heat leaving the boiler. We also use the flu gas to pre-heat the feed water going into the boilers to recover even more flu gas temperature that would otherwise be wasted. The boilers also draw warm indoor air from that plant. This make them more efficient because you don't need to waste heat by buring more fuel per unit of work output to heat cold outdoor air and cold feed water. If you don't have to burn more fuel to make up for the cold air and water, you can generate steam with less fuel. Having the air intake with in the room being heated, drawing heated air the unit is producing, will decrease fuel consumption per BTU of effective heat entering the heated space. Forced induction engines are more efficient in terms of power generated per unit of displacement. They are not, however, nessisarily more efficient in terms of the unit of fuel burned vs unit of work output. The math is very well understood on this matter. There are whole perrfessions to do with thermal dynamics.
Those silencers are to make the exhaust noise quieter outside the habituated space as they leak like sieves. I am going to do the same in my garage.Regards AJ
You need to remove the silencer from inside the building the condensation drain at the bottom also allows combustion gases out as well such as carbon monoxide you can get a marine silencer for inside use if you wish to have one that's fully sealed and room safe a cracking addition to any space that needs heating cheaply and easily though
I was about to say the same about the silencer and condensation drain being moved to outside. Also, the point you touched on about not turning of the power to the unit - this is why it's best to have a 12v battery being trickle charged and powering the unit because then in the event of a power failure (brownout, blackout or just RCD trip) your unit is still powered and can be shut down safely... Nice little setup though and you should get some good use out of that...
You might consider not wrapping the exhaust pipe to help get more heat in the shop, as long as there is little possibility of personally getting burnt on it. Nice job.
Absolutely right, the silencer should be on the outside of the shed because the condensate also discharges fumes. That's why I can't use an exhaust silencer on my. boat.
Just installed one in my office, it's great but I installed mine outside due to noise, not sure the plugged-in power supply is 100% safe, if you have a power cut you could have a meltdown (i know this does not happen often)! Got mine connected to a battery with a battery maintainer plugged in, like my office in one piece and not producing heat having been set on fire!
Nice install but the burner side "air in" supply for safety should be also taken from outside (the black tube above the exhaust) that means any risk of CO goes in and out from outside and your inside "air heat in and air out" from inside. If you look how its mounted to the floor of a camper it makes sense, burner air from under the van heat air from inside. BUT also your setup as per the video is sucking warm workshop air burning it and throwing it outside you may create a negative pressure (pos not in a wooden workshop) but you could in perfectly sealed space get poor combustion and CO levels build up. You also could "harvest the heat from the exhaust" by using metal air duct tube over the top of it and blowing air through it. great video I had a camping gas powered heater like this one so if you don't want diesel camping gas versions are available.
Spot on Martin nice and warm now look forward to the portable one coming up as i have got a brick garage attached to my property and I don't think the council would like me drilling a hole through the wall for the exhaust pipe 👍👍👍👍
Suggestion: Remove the heat wrap from the exhaust pipe, enclose the exhaust system in a box with two vent holes and place a 12V computer case fan over one of the vent holes. Doing this will recover some of the heat loss from the exhaust. You can extract additional heat from the flex pipe by wrapping copper wire around the flex pipe leaving twisted "wings" protruding off of the pipe. The only concern is to assure the output end of the muffler stays above the dew point, which it most likely not be a concern.
Thanks for the video, it will be nice and toasty on cold days in there. You could improve efficiency more by running the air intake for the burner to the outside of the cabin, that way you aren't using the warm air inside for the burner..
hope you get this, ive been watching a lot of youtube vids on the exhausts and nearly everyone points out that the silencer if fitted indoors like yours will put out carbon monoxide out of the silencer drain hole, so please consider moving the silencer outside.
the remote works from a fair distance away too ive got an all in one unit in my shop i use the remote to turn it on let it warm up for a bit before i head out there mines hooked up to a battery but thats because i also use the battery to power a winch i use to pull my project in the shop and qith a snatch block hanging from the ceiling it doubles as a crane because lifting stuff post stroke sucks
Nice job mate, going to commission mine this afternoon (portable) I did notice the silencer only had a few little spot welds around it, when I blew through it, it leaked like a sive, so I brazed around the edge, I’m trying my luck with a 15A 200w power pack, the type with jump leads, up rated the Cig lighter to 15A fuse, I’ve decided to fit the unit externally (water proofed) with ducting coming in as I do a lot of woodwork. Great vid mate 👍
Hey there - just wanted to say that this video (and your previous one) have persuaded me that this is the way to go to heat my workshop over winter. I was looking at a log burner, but it was so expensive, and a pain to install. We have a diesel generator, so always have red diesel "on hand" - it makes so much more sense than a log burner, particularly when I'll probably only use it 4 months in a year. Thanks mate.
Nice rig, well thought out. If you want to scavenge the heat from the exhaust, then route the exhaust tube through a 4" duct, and put a small fan at the end of the duct. more heat, less loss, less fuel.
the comment I was looking for ! Tnku , there are other wraps I was thinking about , w fingers like sticking in all directions, …exhaust is soo hot! We need to find a way how to use that heat , tnku!
Mine is pretty much the same set up, I run mine on red diesel with a 50/50 mix of kerosene it burns slightly hotter and i always leave mine on H2 and use the "alpine" mode when it's warm enough. Every Man and his dog will tell you "how you should have fitted it" I say if it works for you then its a win win! I do agree the silencer should be outside and a change of fuel line to the rigid type. Embark on a CO meter for your own safety my friend and maybe you can cut and push one of the hoses through the wall to heat the other side.
Thank you for this EXCELLENT video, you saved me ALOT of time and trouble with setting mine up. The manual we get in the US it pretty sad, really. You presented all the info I needed in a very clear, efficient manner.
The manufacturer has done an incredible job increasing quality of build and reducing fuel use, especially when you consider the commercial version is well over $1,500!
I would put the inlet hose outside too. Now it sucks air from the shed and it need to go through cracks inside, you're getting cold air from the outside through slight vacuum inside. If you put intake hose outside, only hot air circulates inside.
Fun fact NH3 aka ammonia is a fuel and can be used in any multi fuel generator and combustion engine car. If your power goes out or want go off grid you can run ammonia in a multi fuel generator for power and heat, and can run it a combustion gasoline engine if install a propane tank kit but fill ammonia instead. Look up videos of ammonia as a cheap renewable fuel. It was used as a fuel by nasa to replace liquid fuel since 1960s and is used in rocket fuel, aviation fuel , race cars, tractors
Great job, attach the air intake to the outside then you won't burn off your warm air inside, could direct one of your blow out vents towards your other 4x4 workshop whack a hole though the wall, is it big enough to heat both?, might have to get one myself
You've set that up beautifully Martin. My shed one is a god send and the family are impressed with the house one. Thanks for your advice the other day. Take care, Jeff
You might want to consider moving the burner air intake to the outside as well, as currently the air for the burner is being taken from the shed and the exhaust is being taken to the outside so you'll be creating a slight negative pressure in the shed which means you'll be dragging cold air in from any gaps/door etc in the shed. Putting the burner air intake outside avoids this and makes the unit even more efficient 🙂
Fantastic Martin, well tidy install and well out of the way too, great little heater is this, just the ticket to keep warm through the winter jobs in the workshop, great video Martin, 👍🏻
Hi Martin, just fitted one in my garage and didn't like the idea of the silencer so I was going to fit it outside. However I decided to try it without the silencer thinking that it's not an engine as such . So I fired it up and I found without the silencer there is no appreciable noise at all out of the end of the exhaust!!. I did try it with the silencer on the end first but as I said on taking it off there was no difference! .
Nice setup, although I did see several vid's saying the fuel filter needs to be vertical to maximise getting rid of any air bubbles supposedly. Like n sub.
i like your install ..just a thought if you removed the exshaust wrap and put a stove pipe or tin box around exshaust pipe you could capture more heat instead of wasting it outside. what you think ?
Great video bud . I think I'm going to mount my fuel tank on a board with hinges on back edge . That way I can swing it out from wall for easy filling . Hope it works as well as anticipate .
if you ever have a power cut and we have been promised some in Jan-Feb next year in the UK and the heater is running you could damage the internals as it wont be able to go through its shut down procedure, maybe a battery backup or a battery connected to a charger might be slightly better, I saw a video somewhere where someone else used a battery backup box.
theres only one problem you should put the muffler outside because its not airtight. the cheap Chinese mufflers are not airtight around the edges but other than that looks perfect.
One little tip on power supply too from here - it's better to use car battery with smart charger. Why? Because in case of power outage your burner with battery backup will not stop abruptly. And it actually needs this cooldown cycle. If the fan stops running while burner has been on full power it can melt the plastic as there is no cooldown.
Hi just one comment the exhaust is not completely airtight if you look closely there is a small hole at the bottom of the exhaust to let condensation out. I have been told this must be outside and not inside in case of exhaust fumes.
You do need it to run off a battery, when you have a power outage it cant do a proper shut down cycle, over heats and melts the brains inside not hard to get hold of but you need the right one ive seen it happen they turned the power off to the shed by mistake, ended up getting a compleet new heater £109 could not find the right controler for inside the heater, take care my friend happy heating lol.
Please note that the muffler is not suitable for indoor installation as it is only spot welded and not airtight. A fair amount of exhaust fumes seeps out the small drain hole.
Hey Martin, the silencer is NOT SEALED ! It was meant to be outside or under a van. My mate tig wielded mine .check the little hole at the bottom is for condensation and the intake and exhaust also leaks on the silencer. Where yours is the intake for the hot air will suck up the exhaust and blow it into the room. It might not be a lot but could make you sick or worse after running it for a day. thanks for making the video and hope you don’t mind my comment because they don’t tell you very much in the instructions. I also vented my exhaust up a down pipe from a gutter to get the exhaust away from the house especially on a cold damp day. Ok cheers
I used mine today, -8 C outside and had 30 cm of snow last night. Had to fix a gas leak on the snow blower and was happy as a clam in the garage. When I walked in it was 1 C so with the heater I lucked out and got it fixed to save the day. Merry Christmas to all
i have really got to get me one of these, would go lovely in my workshop, probably get a bit of use in my bathroom first until i get my boiler replaced.
Looks good, but you might consider what may happen if you get a powercut while using heater. It could cause the electronics to over heat . Lots of people take the risk, But I found this on aliexpress. A power supply with a battery charger built in, and UPS, if there is a powercut it automaticaly switches to battery power. link will be bellow. This works a treat for my emergency house heating. Mounted outside but in a insulated metal cabnet, with flow and return holes through house walls. so as the same as you have warm air is recyled not drawing cold outside air in! plus the tank is outside completely, I may have think about anti gelling stuff if it gets very cold diesel. but no worries of spilling diesel indoors it only been fitted for a short while already I am using it instead of central heating, Its direct into living room. and on lowest it is hotter than the central heating, even leaving doors open to rest of house. In think this will save me on energy bills Link. 180W Switching Power Supply 12V 24V Monitor Universal AC DC 13.5A UPS/Charge Function Input 110/220v Battery Charger SC180W
On you're door way get a magnetic fly curtain from Aldi and sew a old sheet or some light canvas to it stops all the drafts and closing nice and crisp 👌 👍
Thanks for the video and comments from others. BEWARE, securing the adjacent planks of your cabin as you have done will cause issues. I made that mistake and there can be as much as 2 inch expansion over the seasons between the top and bottom of a cabin.... mine is a Tuin 40mm thick walls I think.
Nice tidy installation Martin. I used the same exhaust tape on mine - it works a treat, the exhaust barely gets warm now. Nice to see you went down the power supply route 👍 Don’t know if you realise this, but those vent pipes expand to about twice the length they are when supplied?
That's a great installation Martin. You always do things right. The only concern i'd have is if there was a power cut (the PSU would stop) then the heater unit could possibly be damaged since it would not be able to ramp down safely. What about installing a small 12v backup battery just in case?
@@retrorestore Yes Martin I appreciate that, but as you mentioned the unit needs to shut down correctly and if you had a power cut this would not be the case .Therefore an alternative back up power supply would be needed to achieve this a 12v battery for example on some kind of relay . Just a thought ,a few people are thinking the same thing .
Muffler has a hole in it for condensation to drip out, or at least most of mine do, just seen this video figured I would mention that so you can check yours to make sure its not leaking carbon monoxide into the room
If you take air from outside and heat it up, you will get warm fresh air inside and over pressure inside your workshop. I use d-heater in my boat and my setup give me good air quality and dry boat. Your setup is resirculation air inside and will suck cold air from all vents or small gaps.
Great video, seams strange to wrap the exhaust and send heat outside. You could look at running a heat exchanger on the exhaust to heat a small water tank??
Nice work mate!! From watching 4-5 videos today from these heaters, it is "not" recommended using "copper" with diesel heaters. The two don't mix and you can create some bad CO2 from the copper as the oil exhaust does not mix well.....I see that there is other kits you can get to extend your current exhaust that is the same piping as you have.
you want the combustion intake to be outside too. How you have it set up you have negative air pressure. as such cold air will rush in from the inside. Both exhaust and intake need to be outside.
Was pondering on putting one in the workshop,but,with all the comments i've read about change this and that on them,then adding a battery,longer this and that etc etc,list goes on,then factor in the running costs,240/derv,i've decided to stick with the wood burner i've got in there,at least it works when the power goes off
Why not drill a hole in the top and feed the pipe into the bottom of the unit no worries about leaks Also if you mount the tank on hooks you can take it to be filled up just s thought
Very tidy install Martin, bet it’s lovely and warm in there now and will make doing jobs in the workshop that bit more enjoyable. Definitely sort a carbon monoxide detector though for the few pounds they cost to keep yourself safe 👍
I'm sorry to say that install has two faults. The muffler has a small hole on the bottom to weep moisture. That means you are venting exhaust into your space which is not good. Also because your exhaust has a dip in it before exiting it will build moisture in the bend until it clogs and starts a fire. To fix it put the exhaust muffler outside, and have the pipe exit downhill. Also to keep your unit from melting down in the event of a power failure, put a charger on a battery, then plug the Vevor into the battery. Then if the power goes out shut it down when the battery is going to run out.
I have done mine with the heater the other way around so that the air is blown over the exhaust, as it's a shame to waste the heat. The silencer has a drain plug. I also made the exhaust longer too (marine flexi exhaust pipe) ,and a filter to keep the dust out of the intake....
Nice video! A tip is to run them at max setting about 10 minutes before turning of, to reduce soot build up and clogging. Have 3 of these heaters, and first one got clogged up. Can be cleaned up and restored , but that is a booring task. Trust me :) cheers from Sweden
That's a great tip. Thank you!
You’re in danger of gassing yourself there - couple of improvements.
Lay the unit on it’s side and have the first joint and the whole exhaust outside. This joint is notorious for failing and CO leaks. In campers they have a turret plate to allow that joint to go outside.
Better to site the unit outside and pull the intake inside if you want the warm air to be heated.
If you place inside you can put it on its side needs glow plug on top but the unit first exhaust joint would be sealed outside.
Good luck !
You MUST get a carbon monoxide monitor/alarm.
Videos are great
The oxygen for combustion is being drawn from inside the heated space. As the oxygen is depleted the heater will draw oxygen in from outside and with it cold air. The air/oxygen intake should be placed to the outside to prevent the drawing of cold air into the heated space. This is why fireplaces that are not using combustion air from the outside create cold in the extremities of the heated space, ie: a draft.
Martin, be careful with the silencer inside, the ones I have had have a drain in the bottom seam to allow water to drip out, not 100% sealed.
Also they are only spot welded together and not sealed ....allowing carbon monoxide to escape ! Please mount them outdoors only ! ( Try filling it up with water, you'll find they leak everywhere . )
Yeah that exhaust 100% needs to vent out completely, them pipe are renowned for braking down leaking exhaust gases inside,
I’m sure you can mount them on there side
also battery is a must ! not power pack mate if you have a power cut your melt the inside ect buddy they can’t go off when hot
Run the exhaust through a domestic heating radiator angled to drain condensation outside. Corrugated stainless gas pipe will connect the heater to the radiator. Ordinary 22mm plumbing will take the exhaust outside.
@@VanlifeHQ What happens when the battery voltage drops? Won't the heater still burn itself out??
I was going to say the same
A solid piece of advice for anyone buying these cheap heaters be very careful they don’t go up in smoke, a number of these have, I work for a major manufacturer of air and water heaters.
Would be good to know for safety reasons what it's it that causes them to do this , is it bad fitment or mechanical failure, or design flaws?
There must be ways to eliminate or reduce the risk
Maybe because these heaters are so good and you work in the competing UK traditional heating industry Mr @paulhands2763 your talking shyte as your see these heaters as a threat
I fitted a cab heater (Eberspacher) in my workshop over 25 years ago before the cheap versions were available, as others have pointed out it is preferable to run the instalation via a 12v battery and battery charger, this will ensure correct shut down procedure in the event of a mains powe failure. Even if its running when the power fails eventually the low battery voltage wiill shut the until down correctly without damage.
Thank you. Now I'm definitely going to run mine on a battery with a trickle charger. Do I need a marine battery or just a regular battery since I'll be using a trickle charger? Just a regular battery right?
@@whoisthis3512 .Any 12v lead acid battery will do the job, just find the cheapest popular battery, even a lawn mower one would do the job.
@@haroldbell1097 would a 12v, 12Ah one from a mobility scooter be ok? Many thanks 😊
FYI for others that want to install these. With a single wall shed, the heater should have been mounted on its side with the exhaust and combustion air external and glowplug at top. The golden rule is big pipes inside and small pipes outside. Under certain fault conditions there is always a chance of combustion air exiting the inlet, so another reason for keeping the small pipes outside. Always fit a CO detector.
Well said George. Any idea how to avoid the power cut failure mode?
@@cfcyayaya Just depends how many power cuts you might get. There is a argument by some for having a battery capable of starting and shutdown with a smart charger. The what if scenario then comes into play. For there to be any chance of damage( I don't subscribe to the theory) the heater would have to be flat out for a while at exactly the same time as the mains fails - bookies odds?. The battery and smart charger could cost more than the motherboard. For me I assume that those that advocate a battery etc have a standby generator to power the fridge, freezer, boiler etc just in case the mains fails. Backup water supply and so on.
So does the unit automatically enter the power down mode when the fuel runs low? Also if my power goes out and I have the battery setup will the heater just keep running or will it enter the power down mode? I want to install mine with the battery and tricke charger.
@@whoisthis3512 hi I ran mine on a battery and trickle charger in a mobile home for 2 years with no problems. I now have the unit in a van that charges my second battery from main battery when van is running. It's a bit more fiddly setting it up as you should run inline fuses between the 2 batteries and a switch to stop charging so you don't flatten your van start up battery but well worth it, i would highly recommend these units for cheap and easy way to heat garage mobile home caravan and campers. I also have been running it on kerosene which is half the price of diesel here and I think in my own opinion it burns cleaner than the diesel and just as warm.
I'm glad you showed the exhaust and talked about it. I keep seeing these online where people run the exhaust into their building, to save fuel--a huge problem and asking for trouble, in my opinion. It is difficult to convince some people that you can't burn fuel in an enclosed space without venting to the outside.
I would definitely consider moving the silencer outside. The less joints you have inside, the less chance of leaks and there is a small hole in the bottom of the silencer for condensation drips so they can let fumes through. Enjoy your vids too much to loose you.
Nice job. I've got a Chinese one I've been meaning to fiit in my workshop, this might just spur me on, that and the cold weather.
You might want to fit a carbon monoxide alarm, keep yourself safe!
One suggestion :
Replace the full line from the pump to the heater with ridged plastic fuel line . The green line softens up a bit and you will eventually get a “ low fuel “ error from the controller . The pulse pump only produces 0.02 mm of fuel per pulse and the green tubing expands a little bit and the sensor will turn off the heater with a “ low fuel “ warning .
Yeah the correct fuel line diameter is very important on those units it won't work if you don't have the right size hole you'll get too much or not enough fuel, the hole inside that fuel line is so small it's like a pin can barely fit in there it's it's incredibly small
What are the specs for the fuel line if you were to replace it with sturdier line
2 mm id@@bethwills5878
you should use the exhaust to heat water or for steam for a put it trough a Double Convex Radiator mounted on the wall. the exhaust on these things easily hits 200C. so hot enough to boil or heat water.
Those silencers leak like sieves. Not just the drain hole but the ends are only tacked on. Sucking combustion air from inside will exacerbate the leakage by lowering the pressure in the shed. Make sure to have a working CO detector. Also, put a battery in the supply so a sudden power interruption can't damage the unit.
Yes, This. So many people don't realise and are getting gassed with CO...
2 things i would put the combustion air intake outside. having it inside means that you have to suck cold air from outside for combustion. 2: i would probably un cover the exhaust, cant hurt the little extra heating. :D
I'm confused. Why does it suck combustion air from outside if the combustion air intake is inside?
Always great videos as always Martin. I just installed my Diesel air heater as well, they work amazingly for the price. Since your running the exhaust through the wall, just straight pipe it outside with no muffler. You will find much better airflow, wth about a 5"F/8''F increase. Noise is hardly increased with that little muffler removed. For my setup, I used 3/4 copper tubing, and zero back pressure. The Flexi pipe in the kit makes many ripples in the flow due to the ribbing. 60107 USA says hi.
Thanks John
Copper is a good idea. Thank you-
Looks a nice install. Just be aware the silencer is only spot welded together. So it isn't gas tight around the edges, meaning some exhaust will end up inside.
I'll be moving it outside
i was going to say this exact thing, but decided to read the comments first. good job @@retrorestore
As someone who also relies on a diesel heater for workshop warmth... may I suggest (humbily) a CO detector? For not much money, it could be a great edition. Over time the gaskets can seep - it's rare but does happen.. Good video and be well. ( I wrote this before watching the whole vid, You mentioned getting one ;)
hi martin had one in my mancave for past 2 years and it works a treat, same here what evojigger just mentioned with the exhaust box having a hole in / drain hole .i put the exhaust pipe through the shed with the box on the outside
Great description thanks i built a garden gym for me and grandson its got a electric fan when other appliances are on in house such as kettle tumbler dryer oven it jumps from 79 pence a hour to over 2 quid an hour ,
Ive got a friend coming to fit me one of these in gym im not clued up on this luckily he comverts camper vans lookin forward to it hopefully it should stop him getting damp air on lungs and me too.
Thanks
The exhaust bandage holds the heat in the system, which saves on fuel, plus the machine warms up quicker than without. Thanks for your vidios, very helpful, Paul.
No, it prevents a portion of the heat transfer from going inside the heated zone, reducing the system efficiency.
Just a suggestion. I would run the combustion air intake (thin pipe) from outside, as particularly in winter, when you need it most, the air is cold and therefore more dense, making for a more efficient burn. Think intercoolers in turbo engines. Where you have it at the moment, it will be flowing less dense air the warmer the inside space becomes. If you choose to do that with the cold air inlet, make sure it is a good distance away from the exhaust outlet. You don't want to be sucking in exhaust gases! Cheers mate. All the best.
Thanks Roy
That's not exactly correct. I work with large power and recovery boilers. They are 10 stories tall.
We pre-heat the combustion air with heat exchangers fed by the boilers flu gas to recover the heat leaving the boiler. We also use the flu gas to pre-heat the feed water going into the boilers to recover even more flu gas temperature that would otherwise be wasted. The boilers also draw warm indoor air from that plant.
This make them more efficient because you don't need to waste heat by buring more fuel per unit of work output to heat cold outdoor air and cold feed water. If you don't have to burn more fuel to make up for the cold air and water, you can generate steam with less fuel.
Having the air intake with
in the room being heated, drawing heated air the unit is producing, will decrease fuel consumption per BTU of effective heat entering the heated space.
Forced induction engines are more efficient in terms of power generated per unit of displacement. They are not, however, nessisarily more efficient in terms of the unit of fuel burned vs unit of work output.
The math is very well understood on this matter. There are whole perrfessions to do with thermal dynamics.
Hi, even though some videos are a couple of years old they are still really helpful so passing on my thanks .
Those silencers are to make the exhaust noise quieter outside the habituated space as they leak like sieves. I am going to do the same in my garage.Regards AJ
great video , tnku, by having it recirculating inside air , how are the oxygen levels?
great, the cabin is not a sealed unit.
You need to remove the silencer from inside the building the condensation drain at the bottom also allows combustion gases out as well such as carbon monoxide you can get a marine silencer for inside use if you wish to have one that's fully sealed and room safe a cracking addition to any space that needs heating cheaply and easily though
I was about to say the same about the silencer and condensation drain being moved to outside. Also, the point you touched on about not turning of the power to the unit - this is why it's best to have a 12v battery being trickle charged and powering the unit because then in the event of a power failure (brownout, blackout or just RCD trip) your unit is still powered and can be shut down safely...
Nice little setup though and you should get some good use out of that...
You might consider not wrapping the exhaust pipe to help get more heat in the shop, as long as there is little possibility of personally getting burnt on it. Nice job.
i am wondering if you could put the exhaust pipe into the sand to make "sand battery" to keep the warmth for even longer
There is a small hole in the bottom of the silencer for condensation so they can let fumes out into your shed.
Absolutely right, the silencer should be on the outside of the shed because the condensate also discharges fumes. That's why I can't use an exhaust silencer on my. boat.
Just a thought, hot air rises so it might make more sense to have the outlets lower down???
Just installed one in my office, it's great but I installed mine outside due to noise, not sure the plugged-in power supply is 100% safe, if you have a power cut you could have a meltdown (i know this does not happen often)! Got mine connected to a battery with a battery maintainer plugged in, like my office in one piece and not producing heat having been set on fire!
Nice install but the burner side "air in" supply for safety should be also taken from outside (the black tube above the exhaust) that means any risk of CO goes in and out from outside and your inside "air heat in and air out" from inside. If you look how its mounted to the floor of a camper it makes sense, burner air from under the van heat air from inside.
BUT also your setup as per the video is sucking warm workshop air burning it and throwing it outside you may create a negative pressure (pos not in a wooden workshop) but you could in perfectly sealed space get poor combustion and CO levels build up.
You also could "harvest the heat from the exhaust" by using metal air duct tube over the top of it and blowing air through it. great video I had a camping gas powered heater like this one so if you don't want diesel camping gas versions are available.
Martin very tidy installation previous comment on silencer is right about the fumes coming from the drain hole great vid stay safe top lad 👍👨🏻🏭
Spot on Martin nice and warm now look forward to the portable one coming up as i have got a brick garage attached to my property and I don't think the council would like me drilling a hole through the wall for the exhaust pipe 👍👍👍👍
The next experiment would be to build a heat exchanger around the exhaust.
Suggestion: Remove the heat wrap from the exhaust pipe, enclose the exhaust system in a box with two vent holes and place a 12V computer case fan over one of the vent holes. Doing this will recover some of the heat loss from the exhaust. You can extract additional heat from the flex pipe by wrapping copper wire around the flex pipe leaving twisted "wings" protruding off of the pipe. The only concern is to assure the output end of the muffler stays above the dew point, which it most likely not be a concern.
I was thinking the same thing.thats like 200 degrees good heat just dont lean on it...
Very clean installation. Exactly what I needed because I'm building a small tiny house next summer.
Thanks for the video, it will be nice and toasty on cold days in there. You could improve efficiency more by running the air intake for the burner to the outside of the cabin, that way you aren't using the warm air inside for the burner..
Heat always travels up. You need to install the heat outlets just above the floor, otherwise you only heat up the area at the cealing.
hope you get this, ive been watching a lot of youtube vids on the exhausts and nearly everyone points out that the silencer if fitted indoors like yours will put out carbon monoxide out of the silencer drain hole, so please consider moving the silencer outside.
Yes i am doing that as I have said in my latest vids
Thanks for your install. It will help me to install mine. Appreciate the help !
Ron - Canada
the remote works from a fair distance away too ive got an all in one unit in my shop i use the remote to turn it on let it warm up for a bit before i head out there mines hooked up to a battery but thats because i also use the battery to power a winch i use to pull my project in the shop and qith a snatch block hanging from the ceiling it doubles as a crane because lifting stuff post stroke sucks
Nice job mate, going to commission mine this afternoon (portable) I did notice the silencer only had a few little spot welds around it, when I blew through it, it leaked like a sive, so I brazed around the edge, I’m trying my luck with a 15A 200w power pack, the type with jump leads, up rated the Cig lighter to 15A fuse, I’ve decided to fit the unit externally (water proofed) with ducting coming in as I do a lot of woodwork.
Great vid mate 👍
Nice 👍
Hey there - just wanted to say that this video (and your previous one) have persuaded me that this is the way to go to heat my workshop over winter. I was looking at a log burner, but it was so expensive, and a pain to install. We have a diesel generator, so always have red diesel "on hand" - it makes so much more sense than a log burner, particularly when I'll probably only use it 4 months in a year. Thanks mate.
Nice rig, well thought out. If you want to scavenge the heat from the exhaust, then route the exhaust tube through a 4" duct, and put a small fan at the end of the duct. more heat, less loss, less fuel.
the comment I was looking for ! Tnku , there are other wraps I was thinking about , w fingers like sticking in all directions, …exhaust is soo hot! We need to find a way how to use that heat , tnku!
Thanks for showing the finish job. Well done mate.
Mine is pretty much the same set up, I run mine on red diesel with a 50/50 mix of kerosene it burns slightly hotter and i always leave mine on H2 and use the "alpine" mode when it's warm enough. Every Man and his dog will tell you "how you should have fitted it" I say if it works for you then its a win win! I do agree the silencer should be outside and a change of fuel line to the rigid type. Embark on a CO meter for your own safety my friend and maybe you can cut and push one of the hoses through the wall to heat the other side.
Thank you for this EXCELLENT video, you saved me ALOT of time and trouble with setting mine up. The manual we get in the US it pretty sad, really. You presented all the info I needed in a very clear, efficient manner.
The manufacturer has done an incredible job increasing quality of build and reducing fuel use, especially when you consider the commercial version is well over $1,500!
I would put the inlet hose outside too. Now it sucks air from the shed and it need to go through cracks inside, you're getting cold air from the outside through slight vacuum inside. If you put intake hose outside, only hot air circulates inside.
Fun fact NH3 aka ammonia is a fuel and can be used in any multi fuel generator and combustion engine car. If your power goes out or want go off grid you can run ammonia in a multi fuel generator for power and heat, and can run it a combustion gasoline engine if install a propane tank kit but fill ammonia instead.
Look up videos of ammonia as a cheap renewable fuel. It was used as a fuel by nasa to replace liquid fuel since 1960s and is used in rocket fuel, aviation fuel , race cars, tractors
Great job, attach the air intake to the outside then you won't burn off your warm air inside, could direct one of your blow out vents towards your other 4x4 workshop whack a hole though the wall, is it big enough to heat both?, might have to get one myself
You've set that up beautifully Martin. My shed one is a god send and the family are impressed with the house one. Thanks for your advice the other day.
Take care, Jeff
Nice one Jeff, I have the other type as well now.
@@retrorestore That's great, I look forward to seeing you installation.
You might want to consider moving the burner air intake to the outside as well, as currently the air for the burner is being taken from the shed and the exhaust is being taken to the outside so you'll be creating a slight negative pressure in the shed which means you'll be dragging cold air in from any gaps/door etc in the shed. Putting the burner air intake outside avoids this and makes the unit even more efficient 🙂
That's probably correct on paper but in reality, its not going to matter.
@@retrorestore You might be surprised how much of a draft it causes ;-)
No... Unless you use the intake air to cool the exhaust (as with a toyotomi or similar design) it wastes energy Heating cold air.
Fantastic Martin, well tidy install and well out of the way too, great little heater is this, just the ticket to keep warm through the winter jobs in the workshop, great video Martin, 👍🏻
Hi Martin, just fitted one in my garage and didn't like the idea of the silencer so I was going to fit it outside. However I decided to try it without the silencer thinking that it's not an engine as such . So I fired it up and I found without the silencer there is no appreciable noise at all out of the end of the exhaust!!. I did try it with the silencer on the end first but as I said on taking it off there was no difference! .
just got mine today going to use your setup for the most part great vid thanks
Nice setup, although I did see several vid's saying the fuel filter needs to be vertical to maximise getting rid of any air bubbles supposedly. Like n sub.
i like your install ..just a thought if you removed the exshaust wrap and put a stove pipe or tin box around exshaust pipe you could capture more heat instead of wasting it outside. what you think ?
Great video bud . I think I'm going to mount my fuel tank on a board with hinges on back edge . That way I can swing it out from wall for easy filling . Hope it works as well as anticipate .
if you ever have a power cut and we have been promised some in Jan-Feb next year in the UK and the heater is running you could damage the internals as it wont be able to go through its shut down procedure, maybe a battery backup or a battery connected to a charger might be slightly better, I saw a video somewhere where someone else used a battery backup box.
Nice vid. If you put a co alarm, put it around the hight of your knees, or at least well below your head
theres only one problem you should put the muffler outside because its not airtight. the cheap Chinese mufflers are not airtight around the edges but other than that looks perfect.
Thank you for the video. I had a camper furnace in my 3 meter by 6 meter shop but it died last year this is going to be a great replacement
One little tip on power supply too from here - it's better to use car battery with smart charger. Why? Because in case of power outage your burner with battery backup will not stop abruptly. And it actually needs this cooldown cycle. If the fan stops running while burner has been on full power it can melt the plastic as there is no cooldown.
Hi just one comment the exhaust is not completely airtight if you look closely there is a small hole at the bottom of the exhaust to let condensation out.
I have been told this must be outside and not inside in case of exhaust fumes.
Great video Martin . You have done a neat and thorough job installing it . Great asset for winter months if you want to do a bit of painting .
Thanks 👍
You do need it to run off a battery, when you have a power outage it cant do a proper shut down cycle, over heats and melts the brains inside not hard to get hold of but you need the right one ive seen it happen they turned the power off to the shed by mistake, ended up getting a compleet new heater £109 could not find the right controler for inside the heater, take care my friend happy heating lol.
Please note that the muffler is not suitable for indoor installation as it is only spot welded and not airtight. A fair amount of exhaust fumes seeps out the small drain hole.
Hey Martin, the silencer is NOT SEALED ! It was meant to be outside or under a van. My mate tig wielded mine .check the little hole at the bottom is for condensation and the intake and exhaust also leaks on the silencer. Where yours is the intake for the hot air will suck up the exhaust and blow it into the room. It might not be a lot but could make you sick or worse after running it for a day. thanks for making the video and hope you don’t mind my comment because they don’t tell you very much in the instructions. I also vented my exhaust up a down pipe from a gutter to get the exhaust away from the house especially on a cold damp day. Ok cheers
Its outside now as in my later video
I used mine today, -8 C outside and had 30 cm of snow last night. Had to fix a gas leak on the snow blower and was happy as a clam in the garage. When I walked in it was 1 C so with the heater I lucked out and got it fixed to save the day. Merry Christmas to all
i have really got to get me one of these, would go lovely in my workshop, probably get a bit of use in my bathroom first until i get my boiler replaced.
Looks good, but you might consider what may happen if you get a powercut while using heater. It could cause the electronics to over heat . Lots of people take the risk, But I found this on aliexpress. A power supply with a battery charger built in, and UPS, if there is a powercut it automaticaly switches to battery power. link will be bellow. This works a treat for my emergency house heating. Mounted outside but in a insulated metal cabnet, with flow and return holes through house walls. so as the same as you have warm air is recyled not drawing cold outside air in! plus the tank is outside completely, I may have think about anti gelling stuff if it gets very cold diesel. but no worries of spilling diesel indoors it only been fitted for a short while already I am using it instead of central heating, Its direct into living room. and on lowest it is hotter than the central heating, even leaving doors open to rest of house. In think this will save me on energy bills Link. 180W Switching Power Supply 12V 24V Monitor Universal AC DC 13.5A UPS/Charge Function Input 110/220v Battery Charger SC180W
you should bring the tank inside too especially in the winter... diesel gels in cold weather.
On you're door way get a magnetic fly curtain from Aldi and sew a old sheet or some light canvas to it stops all the drafts and closing nice and crisp 👌 👍
Thanks for the video and comments from others. BEWARE, securing the adjacent planks of your cabin as you have done will cause issues. I made that mistake and there can be as much as 2 inch expansion over the seasons between the top and bottom of a cabin.... mine is a Tuin 40mm thick walls I think.
This is fine
Martin , you could put one outlet in each half of your cabin and warm the whole lot up .
Nice tidy installation Martin. I used the same exhaust tape on mine - it works a treat, the exhaust barely gets warm now. Nice to see you went down the power supply route 👍 Don’t know if you realise this, but those vent pipes expand to about twice the length they are when supplied?
Yes I know Gary. Cheers
The whole exhaust assembly should be outside the building to avoid the risk of fumes leaking into the room.
I have the same power supply, I don't suppose you could make a quick video on how to wire it up please
That's a great installation Martin. You always do things right. The only concern i'd have is if there was a power cut (the PSU would stop) then the heater unit could possibly be damaged since it would not be able to ramp down safely. What about installing a small 12v backup battery just in case?
your right about not having a battery
Yes i agree ,back up is a must just in case , how would you do it ?
I would always be in there when it was running and in the event of a power cut i'd just connect up a battery.
@@retrorestore Yes Martin I appreciate that, but as you mentioned the unit needs to shut down correctly and if you had a power cut this would not be the case .Therefore an alternative back up power supply would be needed to achieve this a 12v battery for example on some kind of relay . Just a thought ,a few people are thinking the same thing .
@@stepho9999 I have given it some thought and did think of connecting a relay as you suggested. I'll probably look into it.
Amazing bit of kit. Have one in the T5 camper 😍😍
Muffler has a hole in it for condensation to drip out, or at least most of mine do, just seen this video figured I would mention that so you can check yours to make sure its not leaking carbon monoxide into the room
It's outside now
Also not having a battery backup if there is a blackout/electric outage will cause issue of overheating etc.
If you take air from outside and heat it up, you will get warm fresh air inside and over pressure inside your workshop. I use d-heater in my boat and my setup give me good air quality and dry boat.
Your setup is resirculation air inside and will suck cold air from all vents or small gaps.
Great setup and you explained each part of the demo well done and thank you 👌👍😎
Great video, seams strange to wrap the exhaust and send heat outside. You could look at running a heat exchanger on the exhaust to heat a small water tank??
thankyou Martin a great set up,,have a good weekend,👍👍
Very nice setup will deffo keep the workshop nice and warm over the winter period 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Nice work mate!! From watching 4-5 videos today from these heaters, it is "not" recommended using "copper" with diesel heaters. The two don't mix and you can create some bad CO2 from the copper as the oil exhaust does not mix well.....I see that there is other kits you can get to extend your current exhaust that is the same piping as you have.
Looks good martin well happy with the one I got for the shed
you want the combustion intake to be outside too. How you have it set up you have negative air pressure. as such cold air will rush in from the inside.
Both exhaust and intake need to be outside.
very nice job, you have to be careful when running at low heat mode due to carbon buildup inside.
Was pondering on putting one in the workshop,but,with all the comments i've read about change this and that on them,then adding a battery,longer this and that etc etc,list goes on,then factor in the running costs,240/derv,i've decided to stick with the wood burner i've got in there,at least it works when the power goes off
Don't be a caveman.
Why not drill a hole in the top and feed the pipe into the bottom of the unit no worries about leaks
Also if you mount the tank on hooks you can take it to be filled up just s thought
Nice one Martin. I’ll be fitting mine in the garage next weekend. I’m going to try the one with the Bluetooth. 🔧👍
Very tidy install Martin, bet it’s lovely and warm in there now and will make doing jobs in the workshop that bit more enjoyable. Definitely sort a carbon monoxide detector though for the few pounds they cost to keep yourself safe 👍
Absolutely
I'm sorry to say that install has two faults. The muffler has a small hole on the bottom to weep moisture. That means you are venting exhaust into your space which is not good. Also because your exhaust has a dip in it before exiting it will build moisture in the bend until it clogs and starts a fire. To fix it put the exhaust muffler outside, and have the pipe exit downhill. Also to keep your unit from melting down in the event of a power failure, put a charger on a battery, then plug the Vevor into the battery. Then if the power goes out shut it down when the battery is going to run out.
I moved the exhaust outside in the next video.
Nice one Martin does the job which is the main thing and very well explained
I have done mine with the heater the other way around so that the air is blown over the exhaust, as it's a shame to waste the heat. The silencer has a drain plug. I also made the exhaust longer too (marine flexi exhaust pipe) ,and a filter to keep the dust out of the intake....
nice setup but I think Id turn one of the output pipes around and drill a hole in the wall so that half the heat warms the room next door.
Great review! Thanks!
Great set up Martin.... WELL DONE ! will make your workshop more enjoyable to work in. and helps others that want to install one.
Ive heard they run quite happily on 50% diesel and 50% old engine oil could save you a few quid on diesel