This Diesel Heater Installed In My Workshop Was So Easy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- UK Vevor Diesel Heater This is the 8kw version s.vevor.com/bfP4wU as the 5kw is out of stock
Vevor built In Diesel Heater s.vevor.com/bfP4LU Special discount code for all heaters to save 6% off [ VVheater6 ]
VEVOR USA 8kw heater: s.vevor.com/bfP4OQ
VEVOR UK 8kw heater (open version): s.vevor.com/bfP4O2
VEVOR UK 3kw heater (build-in): s.vevor.com/bfP4LU
VEVOR EU 8kw heater: s.vevor.com/bfP4O4
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I decided to install this Vevor 5kw diesel heater in my workshop. Check out my installation video and see how easy it was to install. It gives off great heat and warms up my workshop in a short time.
USA Vevor Diesel Heater s.vevor.com/bfP35W
Discount code VVheater6 can save 6% off
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Fantastic Martin, well tidy install and well out of the way too, great little heater is this, just the ticket to keep warm through the winter jobs in the workshop, great video Martin, 👍🏻
You’re in danger of gassing yourself there - couple of improvements.
Lay the unit on it’s side and have the first joint and the whole exhaust outside. This joint is notorious for failing and CO leaks. In campers they have a turret plate to allow that joint to go outside.
Better to site the unit outside and pull the intake inside if you want the warm air to be heated.
If you place inside you can put it on its side needs glow plug on top but the unit first exhaust joint would be sealed outside.
Good luck !
You MUST get a carbon monoxide monitor/alarm.
Videos are great
Great set up Martin.... WELL DONE ! will make your workshop more enjoyable to work in. and helps others that want to install one.
Nice video! A tip is to run them at max setting about 10 minutes before turning of, to reduce soot build up and clogging. Have 3 of these heaters, and first one got clogged up. Can be cleaned up and restored , but that is a booring task. Trust me :) cheers from Sweden
That's a great tip. Thank you!
Very clean installation. Exactly what I needed because I'm building a small tiny house next summer.
Thank you for this EXCELLENT video, you saved me ALOT of time and trouble with setting mine up. The manual we get in the US it pretty sad, really. You presented all the info I needed in a very clear, efficient manner.
It's so refreshing to see a proper man with great knowledge and integrity inspiring younger fellas and girls to use your brain and make things happen in life.
We need more of this from us real men and women on this planet.
Thank you for the video. I had a camper furnace in my 3 meter by 6 meter shop but it died last year this is going to be a great replacement
hi martin had one in my mancave for past 2 years and it works a treat, same here what evojigger just mentioned with the exhaust box having a hole in / drain hole .i put the exhaust pipe through the shed with the box on the outside
Martin very tidy installation previous comment on silencer is right about the fumes coming from the drain hole great vid stay safe top lad 👍👨🏻🏭
Thanks for your install. It will help me to install mine. Appreciate the help !
Ron - Canada
I'm glad you showed the exhaust and talked about it. I keep seeing these online where people run the exhaust into their building, to save fuel--a huge problem and asking for trouble, in my opinion. It is difficult to convince some people that you can't burn fuel in an enclosed space without venting to the outside.
Looks good martin well happy with the one I got for the shed
The oxygen for combustion is being drawn from inside the heated space. As the oxygen is depleted the heater will draw oxygen in from outside and with it cold air. The air/oxygen intake should be placed to the outside to prevent the drawing of cold air into the heated space. This is why fireplaces that are not using combustion air from the outside create cold in the extremities of the heated space, ie: a draft.
Nice one Martin. I’ll be fitting mine in the garage next weekend. I’m going to try the one with the Bluetooth. 🔧👍
Great video Martin . You have done a neat and thorough job installing it . Great asset for winter months if you want to do a bit of painting .
Thanks 👍
Great description thanks i built a garden gym for me and grandson its got a electric fan when other appliances are on in house such as kettle tumbler dryer oven it jumps from 79 pence a hour to over 2 quid an hour ,
Ive got a friend coming to fit me one of these in gym im not clued up on this luckily he comverts camper vans lookin forward to it hopefully it should stop him getting damp air on lungs and me too.
Thanks
Spot on Martin nice and warm now look forward to the portable one coming up as i have got a brick garage attached to my property and I don't think the council would like me drilling a hole through the wall for the exhaust pipe 👍👍👍👍
Great setup and you explained each part of the demo well done and thank you 👌👍😎
i have really got to get me one of these, would go lovely in my workshop, probably get a bit of use in my bathroom first until i get my boiler replaced.
Thanks for showing the finish job. Well done mate.
thankyou Martin a great set up,,have a good weekend,👍👍
Hey there - just wanted to say that this video (and your previous one) have persuaded me that this is the way to go to heat my workshop over winter. I was looking at a log burner, but it was so expensive, and a pain to install. We have a diesel generator, so always have red diesel "on hand" - it makes so much more sense than a log burner, particularly when I'll probably only use it 4 months in a year. Thanks mate.
Very nice setup will deffo keep the workshop nice and warm over the winter period 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Nice diesel heater. Thanks for sharing this with us take care
Great video bud . I think I'm going to mount my fuel tank on a board with hinges on back edge . That way I can swing it out from wall for easy filling . Hope it works as well as anticipate .
Martin, be careful with the silencer inside, the ones I have had have a drain in the bottom seam to allow water to drip out, not 100% sealed.
Also they are only spot welded together and not sealed ....allowing carbon monoxide to escape ! Please mount them outdoors only ! ( Try filling it up with water, you'll find they leak everywhere . )
Yeah that exhaust 100% needs to vent out completely, them pipe are renowned for braking down leaking exhaust gases inside,
I’m sure you can mount them on there side
also battery is a must ! not power pack mate if you have a power cut your melt the inside ect buddy they can’t go off when hot
Run the exhaust through a domestic heating radiator angled to drain condensation outside. Corrugated stainless gas pipe will connect the heater to the radiator. Ordinary 22mm plumbing will take the exhaust outside.
@@VanlifeHQ What happens when the battery voltage drops? Won't the heater still burn itself out??
I was going to say the same
You've set that up beautifully Martin. My shed one is a god send and the family are impressed with the house one. Thanks for your advice the other day.
Take care, Jeff
Nice one Jeff, I have the other type as well now.
@@retrorestore That's great, I look forward to seeing you installation.
Fantastic insulation Martin. Very good indeed.. you do such a fantastic job.... well done...
Thank you! Cheers!
The exhaust bandage holds the heat in the system, which saves on fuel, plus the machine warms up quicker than without. Thanks for your vidios, very helpful, Paul.
No, it prevents a portion of the heat transfer from going inside the heated zone, reducing the system efficiency.
Amazing bit of kit. Have one in the T5 camper 😍😍
Nice one Martin does the job which is the main thing and very well explained
There is a small hole in the bottom of the silencer for condensation so they can let fumes out into your shed.
Thanks for the video, it will be nice and toasty on cold days in there. You could improve efficiency more by running the air intake for the burner to the outside of the cabin, that way you aren't using the warm air inside for the burner..
Very nice video, I think that I will install my new vevor heater like this. Thank you Sir!
Great video Martin, a good installation as expected.
You should run the burner air intake to the outside. You are currently sucking warm air from the air and blowing it out side via the exhaust. On top of that you are creating negative air pressure in the house, sucking cold outside air into the house.
No negative air pressure here, its not a sealed cabin, its full of gaps
@@retrorestore the burner running creates the negative pressure, so you definitely do. Not running the air intake to the outside is 100% drawing in cold air through the gaps. You’re wasting oil sucking warm air into the burner and out the exhaust. I am talking about the small black intake pipe with filter. 20+ years HVAC experience installing and servicing heating equipment here.
@@stephenroberts4155 Thanks for your comment.
you should use the exhaust to heat water or for steam for a put it trough a Double Convex Radiator mounted on the wall. the exhaust on these things easily hits 200C. so hot enough to boil or heat water.
Great update i have the same model as yourself but i purchased screw clamps for the hoses and different fuel lines reinforced rubber ones ,will be installing mine very soon , good to see your intake is on the inside good job sir thankyou.
good blog martin keep them coming Gary from Crewe 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Those silencers are to make the exhaust noise quieter outside the habituated space as they leak like sieves. I am going to do the same in my garage.Regards AJ
Been waiting to watch this!! Nice one Martin. Ive ordered one up
Great review! Thanks!
Always great videos as always Martin. I just installed my Diesel air heater as well, they work amazingly for the price. Since your running the exhaust through the wall, just straight pipe it outside with no muffler. You will find much better airflow, wth about a 5"F/8''F increase. Noise is hardly increased with that little muffler removed. For my setup, I used 3/4 copper tubing, and zero back pressure. The Flexi pipe in the kit makes many ripples in the flow due to the ribbing. 60107 USA says hi.
Thanks John
Copper is a good idea. Thank you-
Cheers for the update video. Think Iam going have to invest in one
FYI for others that want to install these. With a single wall shed, the heater should have been mounted on its side with the exhaust and combustion air external and glowplug at top. The golden rule is big pipes inside and small pipes outside. Under certain fault conditions there is always a chance of combustion air exiting the inlet, so another reason for keeping the small pipes outside. Always fit a CO detector.
Well said George. Any idea how to avoid the power cut failure mode?
@@cfcyayaya Just depends how many power cuts you might get. There is a argument by some for having a battery capable of starting and shutdown with a smart charger. The what if scenario then comes into play. For there to be any chance of damage( I don't subscribe to the theory) the heater would have to be flat out for a while at exactly the same time as the mains fails - bookies odds?. The battery and smart charger could cost more than the motherboard. For me I assume that those that advocate a battery etc have a standby generator to power the fridge, freezer, boiler etc just in case the mains fails. Backup water supply and so on.
So does the unit automatically enter the power down mode when the fuel runs low? Also if my power goes out and I have the battery setup will the heater just keep running or will it enter the power down mode? I want to install mine with the battery and tricke charger.
@@whoisthis3512 hi I ran mine on a battery and trickle charger in a mobile home for 2 years with no problems. I now have the unit in a van that charges my second battery from main battery when van is running. It's a bit more fiddly setting it up as you should run inline fuses between the 2 batteries and a switch to stop charging so you don't flatten your van start up battery but well worth it, i would highly recommend these units for cheap and easy way to heat garage mobile home caravan and campers. I also have been running it on kerosene which is half the price of diesel here and I think in my own opinion it burns cleaner than the diesel and just as warm.
As someone who also relies on a diesel heater for workshop warmth... may I suggest (humbily) a CO detector? For not much money, it could be a great edition. Over time the gaskets can seep - it's rare but does happen.. Good video and be well. ( I wrote this before watching the whole vid, You mentioned getting one ;)
Nice job mate, going to commission mine this afternoon (portable) I did notice the silencer only had a few little spot welds around it, when I blew through it, it leaked like a sive, so I brazed around the edge, I’m trying my luck with a 15A 200w power pack, the type with jump leads, up rated the Cig lighter to 15A fuse, I’ve decided to fit the unit externally (water proofed) with ducting coming in as I do a lot of woodwork.
Great vid mate 👍
Nice 👍
Well done!
Very tidy install Martin, bet it’s lovely and warm in there now and will make doing jobs in the workshop that bit more enjoyable. Definitely sort a carbon monoxide detector though for the few pounds they cost to keep yourself safe 👍
Absolutely
Nice work mate!! From watching 4-5 videos today from these heaters, it is "not" recommended using "copper" with diesel heaters. The two don't mix and you can create some bad CO2 from the copper as the oil exhaust does not mix well.....I see that there is other kits you can get to extend your current exhaust that is the same piping as you have.
Nice job Martin👍
Mine is pretty much the same set up, I run mine on red diesel with a 50/50 mix of kerosene it burns slightly hotter and i always leave mine on H2 and use the "alpine" mode when it's warm enough. Every Man and his dog will tell you "how you should have fitted it" I say if it works for you then its a win win! I do agree the silencer should be outside and a change of fuel line to the rigid type. Embark on a CO meter for your own safety my friend and maybe you can cut and push one of the hoses through the wall to heat the other side.
A solid piece of advice for anyone buying these cheap heaters be very careful they don’t go up in smoke, a number of these have, I work for a major manufacturer of air and water heaters.
Would be good to know for safety reasons what it's it that causes them to do this , is it bad fitment or mechanical failure, or design flaws?
There must be ways to eliminate or reduce the risk
Maybe because these heaters are so good and you work in the competing UK traditional heating industry Mr @paulhands2763 your talking shyte as your see these heaters as a threat
The next experiment would be to build a heat exchanger around the exhaust.
Brilliant mate absolutely ace
Nice install Martin hopefully a fire extinguisher close by too 👍
The manufacturer has done an incredible job increasing quality of build and reducing fuel use, especially when you consider the commercial version is well over $1,500!
Hi Martin, just fitted one in my garage and didn't like the idea of the silencer so I was going to fit it outside. However I decided to try it without the silencer thinking that it's not an engine as such . So I fired it up and I found without the silencer there is no appreciable noise at all out of the end of the exhaust!!. I did try it with the silencer on the end first but as I said on taking it off there was no difference! .
the remote works from a fair distance away too ive got an all in one unit in my shop i use the remote to turn it on let it warm up for a bit before i head out there mines hooked up to a battery but thats because i also use the battery to power a winch i use to pull my project in the shop and qith a snatch block hanging from the ceiling it doubles as a crane because lifting stuff post stroke sucks
Great follow up👍👍
😃love it. have ordered the power supply for mine as well the pipe wrap. going to be using mine in my pollytunnel & use a used short scaffold pole to extend the exhaust to the outside. hoping it works but love your ideas & have used yours links.
Nice 👍
Nice setup, I just did a 5 year review video on mine. I use it to heat a 2 car garage.
Nice one Martin, good installation.
Thanks 👍
Nice setup, although I did see several vid's saying the fuel filter needs to be vertical to maximise getting rid of any air bubbles supposedly. Like n sub.
Good video mate.
Nice work!!!!!
Great job, attach the air intake to the outside then you won't burn off your warm air inside, could direct one of your blow out vents towards your other 4x4 workshop whack a hole though the wall, is it big enough to heat both?, might have to get one myself
I fitted a cab heater (Eberspacher) in my workshop over 25 years ago before the cheap versions were available, as others have pointed out it is preferable to run the instalation via a 12v battery and battery charger, this will ensure correct shut down procedure in the event of a mains powe failure. Even if its running when the power fails eventually the low battery voltage wiill shut the until down correctly without damage.
Thank you. Now I'm definitely going to run mine on a battery with a trickle charger. Do I need a marine battery or just a regular battery since I'll be using a trickle charger? Just a regular battery right?
@@whoisthis3512 .Any 12v lead acid battery will do the job, just find the cheapest popular battery, even a lawn mower one would do the job.
@@haroldbell1097 would a 12v, 12Ah one from a mobility scooter be ok? Many thanks 😊
Martin , you could put one outlet in each half of your cabin and warm the whole lot up .
Just installed one in my office, it's great but I installed mine outside due to noise, not sure the plugged-in power supply is 100% safe, if you have a power cut you could have a meltdown (i know this does not happen often)! Got mine connected to a battery with a battery maintainer plugged in, like my office in one piece and not producing heat having been set on fire!
Nice and 'toasty' in there now Martin.....you could of course extend one of those ducts into the other part of the cabin...if it can handle it !..
2 things i would put the combustion air intake outside. having it inside means that you have to suck cold air from outside for combustion. 2: i would probably un cover the exhaust, cant hurt the little extra heating. :D
I'm confused. Why does it suck combustion air from outside if the combustion air intake is inside?
Looks good, but you might consider what may happen if you get a powercut while using heater. It could cause the electronics to over heat . Lots of people take the risk, But I found this on aliexpress. A power supply with a battery charger built in, and UPS, if there is a powercut it automaticaly switches to battery power. link will be bellow. This works a treat for my emergency house heating. Mounted outside but in a insulated metal cabnet, with flow and return holes through house walls. so as the same as you have warm air is recyled not drawing cold outside air in! plus the tank is outside completely, I may have think about anti gelling stuff if it gets very cold diesel. but no worries of spilling diesel indoors it only been fitted for a short while already I am using it instead of central heating, Its direct into living room. and on lowest it is hotter than the central heating, even leaving doors open to rest of house. In think this will save me on energy bills Link. 180W Switching Power Supply 12V 24V Monitor Universal AC DC 13.5A UPS/Charge Function Input 110/220v Battery Charger SC180W
On you're door way get a magnetic fly curtain from Aldi and sew a old sheet or some light canvas to it stops all the drafts and closing nice and crisp 👌 👍
Nice rig, well thought out. If you want to scavenge the heat from the exhaust, then route the exhaust tube through a 4" duct, and put a small fan at the end of the duct. more heat, less loss, less fuel.
the comment I was looking for ! Tnku , there are other wraps I was thinking about , w fingers like sticking in all directions, …exhaust is soo hot! We need to find a way how to use that heat , tnku!
Nice vid. If you put a co alarm, put it around the hight of your knees, or at least well below your head
Such a useful video. Thank-you so much.
I would put the inlet hose outside too. Now it sucks air from the shed and it need to go through cracks inside, you're getting cold air from the outside through slight vacuum inside. If you put intake hose outside, only hot air circulates inside.
I would definitely consider moving the silencer outside. The less joints you have inside, the less chance of leaks and there is a small hole in the bottom of the silencer for condensation drips so they can let fumes through. Enjoy your vids too much to loose you.
Nice job. I've got a Chinese one I've been meaning to fiit in my workshop, this might just spur me on, that and the cold weather.
You might want to fit a carbon monoxide alarm, keep yourself safe!
Very well explained. Interesting
Heat always travels up. You need to install the heat outlets just above the floor, otherwise you only heat up the area at the cealing.
Nice setup martin my friend has one and when it's the cold part of the year he leaves he's running at temp 63 all the time
Thanks
Nice install but the burner side "air in" supply for safety should be also taken from outside (the black tube above the exhaust) that means any risk of CO goes in and out from outside and your inside "air heat in and air out" from inside. If you look how its mounted to the floor of a camper it makes sense, burner air from under the van heat air from inside.
BUT also your setup as per the video is sucking warm workshop air burning it and throwing it outside you may create a negative pressure (pos not in a wooden workshop) but you could in perfectly sealed space get poor combustion and CO levels build up.
You also could "harvest the heat from the exhaust" by using metal air duct tube over the top of it and blowing air through it. great video I had a camping gas powered heater like this one so if you don't want diesel camping gas versions are available.
if you ever have a power cut and we have been promised some in Jan-Feb next year in the UK and the heater is running you could damage the internals as it wont be able to go through its shut down procedure, maybe a battery backup or a battery connected to a charger might be slightly better, I saw a video somewhere where someone else used a battery backup box.
you should bring the tank inside too especially in the winter... diesel gels in cold weather.
Thanks, from Oklahoma, USA.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, seams strange to wrap the exhaust and send heat outside. You could look at running a heat exchanger on the exhaust to heat a small water tank??
I had a mail box laying around and put mine in it ,it’s outside of corse
One suggestion :
Replace the full line from the pump to the heater with ridged plastic fuel line . The green line softens up a bit and you will eventually get a “ low fuel “ error from the controller . The pulse pump only produces 0.02 mm of fuel per pulse and the green tubing expands a little bit and the sensor will turn off the heater with a “ low fuel “ warning .
Yeah the correct fuel line diameter is very important on those units it won't work if you don't have the right size hole you'll get too much or not enough fuel, the hole inside that fuel line is so small it's like a pin can barely fit in there it's it's incredibly small
What are the specs for the fuel line if you were to replace it with sturdier line
2 mm id@@bethwills5878
very nice job, you have to be careful when running at low heat mode due to carbon buildup inside.
Nice installation Martin “👌
Thanks 👍
One little tip on power supply too from here - it's better to use car battery with smart charger. Why? Because in case of power outage your burner with battery backup will not stop abruptly. And it actually needs this cooldown cycle. If the fan stops running while burner has been on full power it can melt the plastic as there is no cooldown.
You need to remove the silencer from inside the building the condensation drain at the bottom also allows combustion gases out as well such as carbon monoxide you can get a marine silencer for inside use if you wish to have one that's fully sealed and room safe a cracking addition to any space that needs heating cheaply and easily though
I was about to say the same about the silencer and condensation drain being moved to outside. Also, the point you touched on about not turning of the power to the unit - this is why it's best to have a 12v battery being trickle charged and powering the unit because then in the event of a power failure (brownout, blackout or just RCD trip) your unit is still powered and can be shut down safely...
Nice little setup though and you should get some good use out of that...
Just a suggestion. I would run the combustion air intake (thin pipe) from outside, as particularly in winter, when you need it most, the air is cold and therefore more dense, making for a more efficient burn. Think intercoolers in turbo engines. Where you have it at the moment, it will be flowing less dense air the warmer the inside space becomes. If you choose to do that with the cold air inlet, make sure it is a good distance away from the exhaust outlet. You don't want to be sucking in exhaust gases! Cheers mate. All the best.
Thanks Roy
That's not exactly correct. I work with large power and recovery boilers. They are 10 stories tall.
We pre-heat the combustion air with heat exchangers fed by the boilers flu gas to recover the heat leaving the boiler. We also use the flu gas to pre-heat the feed water going into the boilers to recover even more flu gas temperature that would otherwise be wasted. The boilers also draw warm indoor air from that plant.
This make them more efficient because you don't need to waste heat by buring more fuel per unit of work output to heat cold outdoor air and cold feed water. If you don't have to burn more fuel to make up for the cold air and water, you can generate steam with less fuel.
Having the air intake with
in the room being heated, drawing heated air the unit is producing, will decrease fuel consumption per BTU of effective heat entering the heated space.
Forced induction engines are more efficient in terms of power generated per unit of displacement. They are not, however, nessisarily more efficient in terms of the unit of fuel burned vs unit of work output.
The math is very well understood on this matter. There are whole perrfessions to do with thermal dynamics.
Looks good , I thought those vents were out of a old motor they remind me of car vents lol
Nice job
Looks a nice install. Just be aware the silencer is only spot welded together. So it isn't gas tight around the edges, meaning some exhaust will end up inside.
I'll be moving it outside
i was going to say this exact thing, but decided to read the comments first. good job @@retrorestore
Nice video, thank you, what Disel do you use, thinking of getting one of these
Those silencers leak like sieves. Not just the drain hole but the ends are only tacked on. Sucking combustion air from inside will exacerbate the leakage by lowering the pressure in the shed. Make sure to have a working CO detector. Also, put a battery in the supply so a sudden power interruption can't damage the unit.
Yes, This. So many people don't realise and are getting gassed with CO...