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@@themowerman you can do this by fitting the elbow that is on the pump and fitting that to the tank outlet, and then run a loop of the pipe down and then up into the filter and the to the pump, with the straight joiners it's a bit tight but it works
You definitely want to filter the fuel before it goes into pump. The least bit of debris will stop the piston in the pump. Then you will have to smack the pump with a hammer to get it going again 😆
Very informative video. Been running the same unit in my aquarium shed 18 months. Works a treat. I did try the rap on the exhaust, didn't like it much . Went a a cheap marine exhaust off Amazon. It is doubled skinned so the hose never touches the shed walls. Great when you have a wooden shed .
Man these things are impressive. The heat output is amazing and when hot it doesn't care what fuels you feed it. The maintenance is so easy. I'm so glad they are being sold
I have been running one of these under the stairs in our cottage (exhaust and tank outside) for about 4 years now. In the first 2 winters i had problems with it sooting up and failing, after many strip downs and cleans i have now mastered it! It has run both the last 2 winters with no issues and better heat/economy. The mods that worked to achieve this was to drill a second air hole into the gauze chamber at 90 degree to the original and pinch the end of the gauze down at 4 points with pliers to make it a snug fit around the tip of the glow plug. On reasembly ensure the internal fan is running as close to the casting surface as is possible! any gap and the air flow through the burner is massively reduced. I have just bought a second one for my workshop which went straight into service as it came out of the box. I have set the pump and fan parameters the same but it doesnt perform as well, it will be getting the same treatment very soon!
@@mattenglish8821 Either red diesel or Kero, depending on which i can get cheapest. I have tried blending oil into the fuel but it always causes problems in the long term.
@@MrTench8 combustion chamber gets messy with used oil. got to have a mixture wright on point, butt that is a big hassel. because every heater is slighty different ;-) for a nice burn i've found that diesel, kero or red diesel are the ones to go with. no hassle of messy chambre 🙂
Yep. Reverse the fuel filter. You want to be able to see the sediment collecting on the outside of the filter screen so you know when to change it. Great set of mods - right out of the box.
Holy cow! I've got 2 heaters that I've been unable to get to fire. I think the fuel lines may have been the issue, so I ordered a kit. If that works, you will be my hero.
I have the same unit. It works fine, except after running for a while there is a heavy, acrid, burning plastic smell from it. I have traced this to the base gasket. Now replaced with a genuine Webasto base gasket. Smell now gone. Not sure if this problem affects all of these heaters, but I would recommend changing the terrible OEM gasket or just remove it. It's a lot easier to do before you've filled up the tank with diesel!
I’ve had one for about 3 years On my boat Mick. Never had a problem with it. Got another last year for my Garage totally recommend them. I’m not sure if your power pack will give out the Watts they need when powering up. Also mate, you put the inline filter the wrong way round. I know it seems right the way you’ve done it, but soz. Enjoy the warmth. 👍
Prices went up I think because of the extreme cold weather that almost all of the US got hit with. Power outages etc got lot of attention to alternative heating. I pulled the trigger on a 8kw (vendor had 750 and sold out in a week)and got it running as the temps took a nose dive and used it to heat little over 650 sq foot to a reasonable 68+ for 3 days. Buying another smaller one to burn on a higher heat setting to prevent coking but probably not really issue if burn a bit of kerosene with burn additive once in a while
Good information! I also padded my fuel pump with some insulation and can't even hear it once the unit is running. I'm trying to make a coil out of a longer exhaust tubing and putting it inside a piece of 6" stove pipe then blowing air thru it with a small fan,. That should capture me more heat and make the system more efficient.
Very cool video but just got to say don't waste your money on power supplies. You can pick them up cheap off eBay and probably run more efficient. I'm currently using an Xbox 360 power supply very efficient works well or you can buy old server power supplies both of them you have to modify slightly just to get them to turn on as seen on TH-cam very easy. Pick these up for 5 to 10 quid Very reliable
Surely you would have the diesel filter before the pump. Not wanting to get sediment (crap) running through it. Mounted my filter external on the heater housing, behind the pump. Secondly easy access to clean filter and you can see when it’s due a clean.
I drilled a hole in the bottom and fitted a grommet for the fuel line to rest against, then a couple of small plastic ties to hold it there. If you''re any good with a soldering iron extend the panel display wiring and again use a grommet to feed through the side chassis .
Great video, very informative. However the filter needs to go before the pump and your filter inlet is on the other side (currently flow is in the wrong direction). How effective is the exhaust tape? Is it safe to put through untreated wood?
After watching this video I decided to use a dremel and cut some metal out around that square hole to make more room for the filter. LOL It barely fits.
Hey Mick. I just purchased one of these and I certainly can see how bad that fuel line is. Thanks for this great upgrade video ! I will do this in the next week. Cheers from Canada
If your pump stops working you can remove it an strike it against a board to free it up. Mine stopped pumping and it worked for me, mave have been some sediment clogging it, after about 30 whacks on a 2x6 leaving indentation in the wood it left a drop of fuel with each strike which was an indication that it was clear.
Watching everyone leave the fuel tank in and the complain there's not much room to work in is my favorite part of these videos 😂 ever think that the hose clamp is left loose on purpose, to remove the tank during first set up.
Hey Mick! that's for your 'tips n tricks' 👍 That tower model looks easier to service. I ended up getting the 'cube' model. Also, I have installed (attached) an HOUR meter! (by vibration) and there's not a lot vibrating on low power! Also, I am going to do away with the cable at the back and install Terminals. (there are 2 holes already there to accomadate this), the power cable comes out one of the holes. That way there is no power cable dangling from the unit. Would have been good if the clock had a battery back up, but I think they thought the unit will most likely be in 'Standby' state anyway. Make sure I get the 'CREDS' for my AWESOME idea/s! Keep in touch... Mick from Australia
These heaters don't have an atomizing nozzle like a normal diesel burner. Instead it has a stainless steel screen that a jet squirts fuel at, the fuel is splattered through the screen and the turbulence of the combustion chamber oxygenates it thoroughly. This is why a filter is not necessary, because the jet orifice is bigger that most contaminant particles. But it's still a good idea to include one, I did on all mine. Because of the fuel squirting through screen design, it is extremely important that the fuel hit the screen at maximum velocity. A resilient pressure tube or trapped air will absorb the pump's pulsations and cause poor fuel vaporization and foul your combustion chamber after a season of use. No ignition and lots of white diesel vapor is all you get. Repair or modify the fuel feed to solve the problem that caused the fouling. You can also get fouling from poor glow plug voltage. After several abortive startups there's so much carbon in the combustion chamber that even if you fix the problem that caused it, still no ignition. And with every failed ignition if fouls the chamber even more. High elevation running aggravates the problem too. Fortunately you don't need to take it all apart to clean out the combustion chamber. Instead, take off the intake tube and use a propane torch to preheat up inside the port. I have even used a butane torch in a pinch. After some fiddling around you will eventually get ignition and a lot of black smoke. Run that thing good and hot to burn out the chamber thoroughly. Take care of your environment because a whole lot of soot will blow out when it fires up! I bought a Vevor unit that was built defective from the factory, I had to modify the fuel tubes and install bigger wiring to make it work as expected.
Mick,that is one of your best videos ever in my opinion!I was captivated the whole time. Plus you prevented a fire hazard I think with that shotty plumbing!
oooh !, although the pump should be after filter there's a slight fault in the way you have installed the filter, as every engineer will know air pockets can compress so eliminating the pulse , you need to mount the filter in a vertical orientation and have the exit at the top so any air will be bled out automatically , the pump is a metering device to measure the amount in a pulse format , not designed to suck , better to mount the pump below the tank so it's not wasting energy trying to pull the fuel into it, there is no flow when it's not energized . also when they say at least 45 degree thats from the horizontal , they work much better in the vertical as no air bubbles will get trapped as long as the exit is at the top, i'm an ex RAF engineer , best training you can get and get paid for it.
filter before the pump. after the pump it is just bad. the filter is also to protect the pump. any filt in the diesel wil get in the pump now. this can be a great problem.
Brilliant video Mick, lot’s of opinions in my comments regarding needing a battery back up but I haven’t bothered, a bit of a fast shut down doesn’t seem to bother mine after experimenting , starts straight back up no problem. Thanks for the mention you won’t regret buying it, i find they are a bit noisy when videoing but Martin doesn’t seem to, great video. Typing as I watch, my pump came with hard fuel line, much better
@@themowerman They didn’t put the motherboard in a cool air flow for no good reason. Over-heating electronic components rarely improves them. Indeed some items on the PCB may well have heat sinks to aid that cooling. Not to worry, though - you can always carry a spare motherboard in case the worst occurs.
Once the fuel line is full there's no loss of any pressure and considering you can actually run the the heater without the pump and just gravity feed the fuel dosage with a medical drip feeder attached to the hose . Carbon Monoxide should not be an issue as your heater exhaust is going outside your garage or it should be for obvious reasons so if you connect the exhaust outlet pipe properly there is one nagging little exhaust leak at the clamp on section right next to the exhaust outlet as I found by the soot deposit where it leaked out ,I suggest a fire proof exhaust compound and a better clamp as the originals are to be honest CRAP and scrap as is the exhaust pipe but I guess for the price it's what you pay for. Cheers Mate
Just got one of these, all the cheap thin lines kinked. I had one of the diy units years back with the solid nylon tube. Looks like I'll be back on ebay. Thanks great demo.😎👍 Subbed
ive got 2 8kw heaters similar to yours henry is right there isn't much difference between 3/5/8kw i have got the mod kit but i have not fitted them yet but i must say they can use a ltr fuel every 2.1/2 hours when flat out
Did you know that diesel fuel contains only approx 10.5kWh/litre? If your heater only uses 400ml/hour that is only about 3 1/2kW of useful heat. For 8kW it would need rather more than twice that amount per hour! ‘Fraid the chinese lie and people believe them.🙂
I never did any Modifications To Improve my Diesel Heater . It works already 3 years without any problem with red diesel. Frends who made Modifications To Improve their Diesel Heater has always problems. Keep your hands off. Thats the best way to have no problems .
Your modifications were well thought out, good job Mick. On my trailer the supplied flex exhaust pipe was to short, so I purchased a length of rigid exhaust pipe and slid the flex into it for length extension. Never heard the name jubilee clamp before, we just call them hose clamps, or gear clamps. Merry Christmas from frigid Canada.
Yo yo .. ta for watching mate .. yeah we call them jubilees Jubilee® has been making hose clamps for longer than any other company anywhere in the world, our brand is trademarked so that you know that whenever you see our name on your clip, you can be confident that you have the finest hose clip in the world. The company was founded in 1921 by Commander Lumley Robinson after he patented the worm drive hose clip, which he named ‘Jubilee Clip’; although we don’t know where he got the name from. Jubilee® remains a registered trademark and is known throughout the world.
Got the same housing is flimsy as fuck but they work great lol . I decided to build two of em in a old woodstove 10 kw combined . One was just a bit low for a 125 cubick meter room outside with one heater it was minus 7 celcius inside 17 degrees celcius so they work great .
the filter is the wrong colour, :), good vid, I watch most vids like this, get ideas from some, if people make mistakes, so what, it gets sorted out in the end ,
Hi Just watched your improvement for Heater Tube Replacement Hose Clip Fuel Filter Diesel Heater Fuel Line. Can you send me a link. The only one I can find is 2.6mm. Or would that be OK. Great video.
I was going to post a comment taking the mickey out of your table cloth but... That's the most informative and well put together video on these heaters I've found to date. You should persuade the wife to give you some space and get a studio sorted because your presentation skills are great. First video of yours I've watched and no idea what you do but ive hit the sub button to find out
Well, that was an excellent video. Thanks for the all the modifications that you did to the unit I noticed on the fuel filter, the fuel goes into the screen, and then out to the burner reverse of how a gasoline filter would work or am I wrong. And thank you for the shout out
Never ever pay that. Just got my 2nd 5kW one from AliEx for 70 dollars shipped and it arrived in 2 days. Look around for deals and never pay over 100. Ever.
Hi Mick Great video. Where did you get your heat wrap tape for the exhaust. Some of the ones on Amazon have lousy reviews, your one seems to insulate well. Cheers Andrew
@@themowerman Hi Mick a chance of being a bit more specific. That stuff you bought seems to work well. I don't want to order a roll from somewhere and find it's crap. Cheers Andrew
I would surgest you mount the pump on outside of heater and suspend it on bungee cord 5mm thick on ebay. that way you can solve 3 problems at once firstly drill a hole inline with fuel tank outet bigger than pipe so you can put something soft around fuel pipe where goes through the tin, this will solve having to tight a bend in pipe this helps to reduce the resinance of pipe on heater frame. next fit an inline fuel tap, and the filter is next then pump, but I bought a ultra quiet combo filter and pump well worth the money for a more quiet heater there are few ways to mount the pump, but what is needed is about 2 inch peice of horizontal repare plates work for me, at top of heater frame anything to tie bungee too away from the metal frame, because that is what causes a lot of the noise some people use cable ties , they still transfer some noise i think bungee is better. From pump to heater and now it does not need to go through body or touch anything othet than fuel inlet connection . i tried to put a photo of one, but TH-cam will not let me. if you want i can email some pics to help ihave a total of 5 heaters , 2 are now heating my home and saving me money on my gas bill. one more thing important i use kerosene not diesel its a lot cheaper and cleaner.
Nicely done, I need to put a filter on my one too, as Steve the Transit camper said, you'll hear people bang on about circuit board frying if you have a power cut without a battery back up but I know many people who have tested that and it didn't happen. I'll stick with the power supply too.
Hii mike I have the smell of burning rubber, plastic, or smelly air outside the room, even though the machine is on the balcony... Your guidance much appreciated
Mmm, without going into Bernoulli’s Equation from a science pov there's nowhere near enough pressure generated in the pipe when it's pushing 0.02ml per impulse to make it flex chap, certainly as that pressure is divisible by its length . just saying... By all means if the pipe is likely to deteriorate then yeah I see the value in swapping it.. main thing to me would be better quality clamps.
Here you go URAQT 4M Car Air Parking Heater Tube, 17 pcs Durable Diesel Heater Fuel Line Kit, Car Fuel Filter Crude Oil Heater with Tube Replacement Hose Clip Fuel Pipe Line for Webasto Eberspacher amzn.eu/d/hKaJ17T
OMG, thankfully you know what your doing Mick😊 I was going to ask how much warranty it comes with the unit, but I guess you’ve voided the warranty anyway....😊😊😊
Don’t understand why you want to see the fuel running through the lines. We can’t see this on our vehicles. If fuel is not running through the lines, pretty sure we would know.
Replacing the flexible fuel pipe is totally overkill. The pipe will take whatever time it needs to fill up before delivering fuel to the heater. And there's a risk that the new pump will not be exactly 0.2 mL or will not be handled as the controller is expecting it to be. I don't think this mod is necessary at all, maybe the opposite. Thermal insulation of the fuel line around the heater is quite necessary though, as well as for the air exhaust pipe over all its length, unless you have some heat exchanger around. I also zip-tied the fuel line as far away from the heater as I could. I also replaced all the water-hose clamps with real stove pipe clamps, and I'll probably replace all the pipes with better quality airtight ones. I have no idea if the current cheap exhaust pipe can withstand the extra heat caused by the insulation, or nitrous or sulfuric oxidation from the diesel exhaust corroding fumes. Also, I plan on zig-zaging the exhaust pipe inside a wall going up, to use the wall as a thermal mass and retrieve all the burning hot heat otherwise wasted in the exhaust, so I'll probably add a water collector at the bottom to redirect the water condensation outdoors and prevent corrosion in the exhaust pipe. Preventing the fuel tank from moving is also not a big deal, since the heater will be fixed on a wall, but if it's really a concern, I'd cut a sheet of insulating material and glue it to the case on both sides rather than adding metallic or wooden wedges, which may not handles high temperatures properly. Also, you should not wrap the pipe with aluminum foil, but use an insulation sleeve around the pipe or one that is already insulated. That's not the proper and maintenance-free way of doing so. I hit the same issue of course with the horribly designed exhaust pipe and the 2 small feet that require an extension because the exhaust pipe just cannot fit between the feet if you intend to have the case stand on its own rather than fix it on the wall. The feet actually need to be high enough so that the exhaust pipe is rather far away from the ground. The tiny transparent plastic pipe near the exhaust and the heater also needs its insulation sleeve regardless of how insulated the exhaust pipe is. Vevor may be a great tool brand present in the UK, France and other countries, but this specific diesel space heater is still cheap Chinese junk that does require quite substantial modding to make it safe and efficient. But at least it's doable.
The nylon fuel pipe is basically polyamid that is used on cars now. Its 100% ethanol proof (even diesel has ethanol in it now). You can help the pump by priming line from tank to pipe so its getting some fuel a bit quicker. Ithers have said that cold air feed pipe is better if a smooth bore as the corrugated pipe can cause too much intake turbulence 👍🏻 Subbed!
@themowerman is it possible to fabricate a catalytic converter using a wood stove ceramic honeycomb catalytic converter? Is there room at the end of the burner and the heat exchanger casting to put in a square or disk of ceramic. The hot diesel exhaust would pass thru the catalytic honeycomb, enter the heat exchanger area, then pass backwards thru the outer annulus of the catalytic ceramic honeycomb to the exhaust. Both passages thru the catalytic material would increase the temperatures entering and exiting the heat exchanger. This would eliminate exhaust fumes and (possibly) reduce CO in the exhaust. Also, you can buy an ozone generator for your car lighter that you could pipe some intake air thru the ozone generator and into the exhaust to destroy residual CO left from the catalytic process.
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Hi Mick the filter wants to be on the tank feed side not the pressure side and fitting the right way round 😉
Yeah mate .. only problem is there is only about 3 inches of pipe..
@@themowerman you can do this by fitting the elbow that is on the pump and fitting that to the tank outlet, and then run a loop of the pipe down and then up into the filter and the to the pump, with the straight joiners it's a bit tight but it works
@@themowerman he's right. You installed the pump in the wrong location. Worse is you're telling viewers specifically to install the filter backwards
You definitely want to filter the fuel before it goes into pump. The least bit of debris will stop the piston in the pump. Then you will have to smack the pump with a hammer to get it going again 😆
@@ProctorsGamble lol
Always put a filter between the fuel tank and the pump to filter fuel before it goes into pump.
Good tip , that way it will protect the fuel pump
a bennifit to puting it after the pump is often timed the pump will degrade and rubber and plastic pieces cab come out so the filter will catch that.
Very informative video. Been running the same unit in my aquarium shed 18 months. Works a treat. I did try the rap on the exhaust, didn't like it much . Went a a cheap marine exhaust off Amazon. It is doubled skinned so the hose never touches the shed walls. Great when you have a wooden shed .
Man these things are impressive. The heat output is amazing and when hot it doesn't care what fuels you feed it. The maintenance is so easy. I'm so glad they are being sold
Great point!
I have been running one of these under the stairs in our cottage (exhaust and tank outside) for about 4 years now. In the first 2 winters i had problems with it sooting up and failing, after many strip downs and cleans i have now mastered it! It has run both the last 2 winters with no issues and better heat/economy. The mods that worked to achieve this was to drill a second air hole into the gauze chamber at 90 degree to the original and pinch the end of the gauze down at 4 points with pliers to make it a snug fit around the tip of the glow plug. On reasembly ensure the internal fan is running as close to the casting surface as is possible! any gap and the air flow through the burner is massively reduced. I have just bought a second one for my workshop which went straight into service as it came out of the box. I have set the pump and fan parameters the same but it doesnt perform as well, it will be getting the same treatment very soon!
Thanks for the update
Hi, what fuel or mixtures of fuels do you run the heater on, please?
@@mattenglish8821 hi mate .. to be fair for what I use it for I just use straight diesel..
@@mattenglish8821 Either red diesel or Kero, depending on which i can get cheapest.
I have tried blending oil into the fuel but it always causes problems in the long term.
@@MrTench8 combustion chamber gets messy with used oil. got to have a mixture wright on point, butt that is a big hassel. because every heater is slighty different ;-) for a nice burn i've found that diesel, kero or red diesel are the ones to go with. no hassle of messy chambre 🙂
A British fellow educating a rebel American about a Chinese product. Love it and thanks, bud.
Lol
Yep. Reverse the fuel filter. You want to be able to see the sediment collecting on the outside of the filter screen so you know when to change it. Great set of mods - right out of the box.
Yeah I will get it done..
Holy cow! I've got 2 heaters that I've been unable to get to fire. I think the fuel lines may have been the issue, so I ordered a kit. If that works, you will be my hero.
Ok.. cool. Let me know how it goes..
I have the same unit. It works fine, except after running for a while there is a heavy, acrid, burning plastic smell from it. I have traced this to the base gasket. Now replaced with a genuine Webasto base gasket. Smell now gone. Not sure if this problem affects all of these heaters, but I would recommend changing the terrible OEM gasket or just remove it. It's a lot easier to do before you've filled up the tank with diesel!
Ok.. I will look into it.. mine is fine and not getting the same smell.
I’ve had one for about 3 years On my boat Mick. Never had a problem with it. Got another last year for my Garage totally recommend them. I’m not sure if your power pack will give out the Watts they need when powering up. Also mate, you put the inline filter the wrong way round. I know it seems right the way you’ve done it, but soz. Enjoy the warmth. 👍
It's running great.. ohh did i .. I will check it out.. ta mate
Prices went up I think because of the extreme cold weather that almost all of the US got hit with. Power outages etc got lot of attention to alternative heating. I pulled the trigger on a 8kw (vendor had 750 and sold out in a week)and got it running as the temps took a nose dive and used it to heat little over 650 sq foot to a reasonable 68+ for 3 days. Buying another smaller one to burn on a higher heat setting to prevent coking but probably not really issue if burn a bit of kerosene with burn additive once in a while
The only mod I did was replace the fuel line and add filter. Filter on suction side. Also real hose clamps. Plus I never leave it running unattended.
Good advice
Thanks. Others may have mentioned it, but the fuel filter should be b4 the pump.
Good information! I also padded my fuel pump with some insulation and can't even hear it once the unit is running. I'm trying to make a coil out of a longer exhaust tubing and putting it inside a piece of 6" stove pipe then blowing air thru it with a small fan,. That should capture me more heat and make the system more efficient.
Good idea
Very cool video but just got to say don't waste your money on power supplies. You can pick them up cheap off eBay and probably run more efficient. I'm currently using an Xbox 360 power supply very efficient works well or you can buy old server power supplies both of them you have to modify slightly just to get them to turn on as seen on TH-cam very easy. Pick these up for 5 to 10 quid Very reliable
Try fitting some LED light strip (12 v) in the fuel tank bay . Makes it very easy to check the fuel level.
can you just tap the wires into the existing heater power wires?
Yeah, I also keep the foam packaging, helps protect those battery packs. 👍
Great video, just a bit of advice, put the filter on the tank side of the pump and the filter is the wrong way round, fuel in on the outside.
@@alanallington1001 yeah I know ... I made a mistake.. ta for watching
Surely you would have the diesel filter before the pump.
Not wanting to get sediment (crap) running through it.
Mounted my filter external on the heater housing, behind the pump.
Secondly easy access to clean filter and you can see when it’s due a clean.
I'd say filter before the pump aswell because any abrasive sediment would damage the pump .
Yeah I need to sort it.. but unfortunately there is not a lot of room.. only about 3 inches of pipe and not a lot of room..
I drilled a hole in the bottom and fitted a grommet for the fuel line to rest against, then a couple of small plastic ties to hold it there. If you''re any good with a soldering iron extend the panel display wiring and again use a grommet to feed through the side chassis .
Nice video thanks. If you connect the filter BEFORE the pump you will protect the pump from debris
Great video, very informative.
However the filter needs to go before the pump and your filter inlet is on the other side (currently flow is in the wrong direction).
How effective is the exhaust tape? Is it safe to put through untreated wood?
It's great to use.. yeah I would say it ok
Thanks for the video, I had to change my glow plug so I decided to buy the update kit and do the update modifications
Fantastic
After watching this video I decided to use a dremel and cut some metal out around that square hole to make more room for the filter. LOL It barely fits.
you take out the fexhose and put a filter with and airbubble in stead good idea
Hey Mick. I just purchased one of these and I certainly can see how bad that fuel line is.
Thanks for this great upgrade video ! I will do this in the next week.
Cheers from Canada
No worries brother
If your pump stops working you can remove it an strike it against a board to free it up. Mine stopped pumping and it worked for me, mave have been some sediment clogging it, after about 30 whacks on a 2x6 leaving indentation in the wood it left a drop of fuel with each strike which was an indication that it was clear.
Ta for the tip
Watching everyone leave the fuel tank in and the complain there's not much room to work in is my favorite part of these videos 😂 ever think that the hose clamp is left loose on purpose, to remove the tank during first set up.
I use the green crap. Works for me in New England.
Hey Mick! that's for your 'tips n tricks' 👍
That tower model looks easier to service. I ended up getting the 'cube' model.
Also, I have installed (attached) an HOUR meter! (by vibration) and there's not a lot vibrating on low power!
Also, I am going to do away with the cable at the back and install Terminals. (there are 2 holes already there to accomadate this), the power cable comes out one of the holes.
That way there is no power cable dangling from the unit.
Would have been good if the clock had a battery back up, but I think they thought the unit will most likely be in 'Standby' state anyway.
Make sure I get the 'CREDS' for my AWESOME idea/s!
Keep in touch...
Mick
from Australia
These heaters don't have an atomizing nozzle like a normal diesel burner. Instead it has a stainless steel screen that a jet squirts fuel at, the fuel is splattered through the screen and the turbulence of the combustion chamber oxygenates it thoroughly. This is why a filter is not necessary, because the jet orifice is bigger that most contaminant particles. But it's still a good idea to include one, I did on all mine.
Because of the fuel squirting through screen design, it is extremely important that the fuel hit the screen at maximum velocity. A resilient pressure tube or trapped air will absorb the pump's pulsations and cause poor fuel vaporization and foul your combustion chamber after a season of use. No ignition and lots of white diesel vapor is all you get.
Repair or modify the fuel feed to solve the problem that caused the fouling. You can also get fouling from poor glow plug voltage. After several abortive startups there's so much carbon in the combustion chamber that even if you fix the problem that caused it, still no ignition. And with every failed ignition if fouls the chamber even more. High elevation running aggravates the problem too.
Fortunately you don't need to take it all apart to clean out the combustion chamber. Instead, take off the intake tube and use a propane torch to preheat up inside the port. I have even used a butane torch in a pinch. After some fiddling around you will eventually get ignition and a lot of black smoke. Run that thing good and hot to burn out the chamber thoroughly. Take care of your environment because a whole lot of soot will blow out when it fires up!
I bought a Vevor unit that was built defective from the factory, I had to modify the fuel tubes and install bigger wiring to make it work as expected.
Mick,that is one of your best videos ever in my opinion!I was captivated the whole time. Plus you prevented a fire hazard I think with that shotty plumbing!
Thanks mate
Some well needed modifications to that diesel ⛽ heater mate 👍
oooh !, although the pump should be after filter there's a slight fault in the way you have installed the filter, as every engineer will know air pockets can compress so eliminating the pulse , you need to mount the filter in a vertical orientation and have the exit at the top so any air will be bled out automatically , the pump is a metering device to measure the amount in a pulse format , not designed to suck , better to mount the pump below the tank so it's not wasting energy trying to pull the fuel into it, there is no flow when it's not energized . also when they say at least 45 degree thats from the horizontal , they work much better in the vertical as no air bubbles will get trapped as long as the exit is at the top, i'm an ex RAF engineer , best training you can get and get paid for it.
Shame.. not all you have said is correct... But thanks for the comment
filter before the pump. after the pump it is just bad. the filter is also to protect the pump. any filt in the diesel wil get in the pump now. this can be a great problem.
great that you told something about main power supply shut down and you need a backup battery
Brilliant video Mick, lot’s of opinions in my comments regarding needing a battery back up but I haven’t bothered, a bit of a fast shut down doesn’t seem to bother mine after experimenting , starts straight back up no problem. Thanks for the mention you won’t regret buying it, i find they are a bit noisy when videoing but Martin doesn’t seem to, great video. Typing as I watch, my pump came with hard fuel line, much better
Hi cupcake.. yeah it's great.. Nana is loving living in the shed now.. I have halfed the rent and now he has heating as well
@@themowerman 🤣🤣🤣 poor Nana
@@themowerman They didn’t put the motherboard in a cool air flow for no good reason. Over-heating electronic components rarely improves them. Indeed some items on the PCB may well have heat sinks to aid that cooling. Not to worry, though - you can always carry a spare motherboard in case the worst occurs.
Why not use the exhaust heat to add to the sho heat ?
Because of carbon monoxide poisoning?
I have one heater with the hard nylon fuel line and one with the soft green line. No difference. Both have been in pretty heavy use for over 2 years.
Nic job Mick 👍 Far less scary now!! Just found your channel. I’m over the pond and in Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦 Keep up the knowledge. I appreciate! 👍
Thanks Barry mate .. I appreciate you watching..
i did the lines on mine with copper break line way way better
Good idea
Epoxy putty for round the exhaust if it starts with fumes. Nice video mate.
Thanks for the tip!
Once the fuel line is full there's no loss of any pressure and considering you can actually run the the heater without the pump and just gravity feed the fuel dosage with a medical drip feeder attached to the hose . Carbon Monoxide should not be an issue as your heater exhaust is going outside your garage or it should be for obvious reasons so if you connect the exhaust outlet pipe properly there is one nagging little exhaust leak at the clamp on section right next to the exhaust outlet as I found by the soot deposit where it leaked out ,I suggest a fire proof exhaust compound and a better clamp as the originals are to be honest CRAP and scrap as is the exhaust pipe but I guess for the price it's what you pay for. Cheers Mate
nice, can't wait to see it working.
You and me both! It's working great..
Fuel filter should be before the pump not after it as you have done.
Mick YOU installed the FILTER BACKWARDS😳
Yeah I see that..
They have a fuel pump pulse damper that cuts noise by 50+ % works great.
I'm not worried mate .. it's not that noisy to be fair.. hey thanks for stopping by
Just got one of these, all the cheap thin lines kinked. I had one of the diy units years back with the solid nylon tube. Looks like I'll be back on ebay. Thanks great demo.😎👍 Subbed
Ta very much
ive got 2 8kw heaters similar to yours henry is right there isn't much difference between 3/5/8kw i have got the mod kit but i have not fitted them yet but i must say they can use a ltr fuel every 2.1/2 hours when flat out
Did you know that diesel fuel contains only approx 10.5kWh/litre? If your heater only uses 400ml/hour that is only about 3 1/2kW of useful heat. For 8kW it would need rather more than twice that amount per hour! ‘Fraid the chinese lie and people believe them.🙂
It probably uses as much in electricity as well.
I never did any Modifications To Improve my Diesel Heater . It works already 3 years without any problem with red diesel. Frends who made Modifications To Improve their Diesel Heater has always problems. Keep your hands off. Thats the best way to have no problems .
No problems with mine mate .. I appreciate your comment
Your modifications were well thought out, good job Mick. On my trailer the supplied flex exhaust pipe was to short, so I purchased a length of rigid exhaust pipe and slid the flex into it for length extension. Never heard the name jubilee clamp before, we just call them hose clamps, or gear clamps. Merry Christmas from frigid Canada.
Yo yo .. ta for watching mate .. yeah we call them jubilees Jubilee® has been making hose clamps for longer than any other company anywhere in the world, our brand is trademarked so that you know that whenever you see our name on your clip, you can be confident that you have the finest hose clip in the world.
The company was founded in 1921 by Commander Lumley Robinson after he patented the worm drive hose clip, which he named ‘Jubilee Clip’; although we don’t know where he got the name from. Jubilee® remains a registered trademark and is known throughout the world.
Goodness freakin gracious....Jimminy tinkering cricket....
Lol ta for watching
Fire it up, fire it up!
The filter needs to go before the fuel pump to keep dirt from getting into the pump. It will last a lot longer!
Got the same housing is flimsy as fuck but they work great lol . I decided to build two of em in a old woodstove 10 kw combined . One was just a bit low for a 125 cubick meter room outside with one heater it was minus 7 celcius inside 17 degrees celcius so they work great .
Yeah I'm loving mine
the filter is the wrong colour, :), good vid, I watch most vids like this, get ideas from some, if people make mistakes, so what, it gets sorted out in the end ,
Ta for watching
Thanks for the video.
good job /thanks much
FYI, the pump makes no pressure, you only need to replace the fuel line because it gets old and cracks
Those Chinese jubilee clips are made of toffee. Mine stripped before they got tight. I had to buy some proper ones.
Yeah I know.. I got away with it ..
Why not use the black rubber fuel line exclusively? The filter is clear for seeing the fuel flow. Any reason why the white 2mm tubing must be used?
It gives a better fuel delivery
Hi
Just watched your improvement for Heater Tube Replacement Hose Clip Fuel Filter Diesel Heater Fuel Line. Can you send me a link. The only one I can find is 2.6mm. Or would that be OK. Great video.
I will see if I can find the link...
Hi Mick maybe some viewer can chip in with a source of a good quality heatwrap tape. Cheers Andrew
Good video, they work well, I just did a 5 year review on mine.
good job pal
I was going to post a comment taking the mickey out of your table cloth but... That's the most informative and well put together video on these heaters I've found to date. You should persuade the wife to give you some space and get a studio sorted because your presentation skills are great. First video of yours I've watched and no idea what you do but ive hit the sub button to find out
Thanks mate.. it's not a table cloth.. it's My bedding lol
Well, that was an excellent video. Thanks for the all the modifications that you did to the unit I noticed on the fuel filter, the fuel goes into the screen, and then out to the burner reverse of how a gasoline filter would work or am I wrong. And thank you for the shout out
I may of installed it wrong..
Say it ain't so!!! 😲
@@Big_Johns I think 🤔 so
At the beginning of the video you said prices are £80-100, and to follow the link. Did that, and they're getting on for 200 quid!
Never ever pay that. Just got my 2nd 5kW one from AliEx for 70 dollars shipped and it arrived in 2 days. Look around for deals and never pay over 100. Ever.
Hi Mick Great video. Where did you get your heat wrap tape for the exhaust. Some of the ones on Amazon have lousy reviews, your one seems to insulate well. Cheers Andrew
Got it from eBay I believe mate
@@themowerman Hi Mick a chance of being a bit more specific. That stuff you bought seems to work well. I don't want to order a roll from somewhere and find it's crap. Cheers Andrew
@@andrewmazurkiewicz105 I will have a look but it was a while ago mate
@@themowerman Ok thanks Mick, don't knock yourself out over it. Cheers Andrew
hi mick where can i get what you reccomend for the replacement tubes and clamps please
Got mine from eBay I believe mate
can you buy the black fuel conector separate ,,good vid.
Yes
I would surgest you mount the pump on outside of heater and suspend it on bungee cord 5mm thick on ebay. that way you can solve 3 problems at once firstly drill a hole inline with fuel tank outet bigger than pipe so you can put something soft around fuel pipe where goes through the tin, this will solve having to tight a bend in pipe this helps to reduce the resinance of pipe on heater frame. next fit an inline fuel tap, and the filter is next then pump, but I bought a ultra quiet combo filter and pump well worth the money for a more quiet heater there are few ways to mount the pump, but what is needed is about 2 inch peice of horizontal repare plates work for me, at top of heater frame anything to tie bungee too away from the metal frame, because that is what causes a lot of the noise some people use cable ties , they still transfer some noise i think bungee is better. From pump to heater and now it does not need to go through body or touch anything othet than fuel inlet connection . i tried to put a photo of one, but TH-cam will not let me. if you want i can email some pics to help ihave a total of 5 heaters , 2 are now heating my home and saving me money on my gas bill. one more thing important i use kerosene not diesel its a lot cheaper and cleaner.
Thanks for the update
Nicely done, I need to put a filter on my one too, as Steve the Transit camper said, you'll hear people bang on about circuit board frying if you have a power cut without a battery back up but I know many people who have tested that and it didn't happen. I'll stick with the power supply too.
Yeah I hear ya.. been looking for videos on here showing the damage but not seeing anything
Hii mike
I have the smell of burning rubber,
plastic, or smelly air outside the
room, even though the machine is
on the balcony...
Your guidance much appreciated
Check all the fuel lines are not getting hot.. and just keep an eye on it .. do you have a carbon monoxide alarm?
No I don't have carbon alarm
@@ramzizeineddine1942 you should get one mate
Thank you for your kind reply
But can we find where is the problem
nice video mick I'm sure there are many who could use your fine tips
Thanks 👍
@@themowerman 😎👍 your welcime good boddy
Did you put exhaust paste on your pipe to stop any leaks
No.. it's fine..
Mmm, without going into Bernoulli’s Equation from a science pov there's nowhere near enough pressure generated in the pipe when it's pushing 0.02ml per impulse to make it flex chap, certainly as that pressure is divisible by its length . just saying... By all means if the pipe is likely to deteriorate then yeah I see the value in swapping it.. main thing to me would be better quality clamps.
Great video Mick
Trying to find the link for the eBay modification kit mick? Do u have a link please? 😅
Here you go URAQT 4M Car Air Parking Heater Tube, 17 pcs Durable Diesel Heater Fuel Line Kit, Car Fuel Filter Crude Oil Heater with Tube Replacement Hose Clip Fuel Pipe Line for Webasto Eberspacher amzn.eu/d/hKaJ17T
You need some strain relief on the cable as there is none at all the entire way to the ECU in the heater casing, a gland nut will sort it out.
Great mod Mick top man that Martin butler look forward to the fitting you are certainly going to be nice and toasty 👍👍👍👍
Video coming soon.. ta for watching mate
Great and interesting video. I thought you said you were going to cable tie the fuel tank so it didn’t move or did I dream that bit?
Yeah I still need to do it .. and I'm running it without it at the moment.. but it's on my to-do list
OMG, thankfully you know what your doing Mick😊
I was going to ask how much warranty it comes with the unit, but I guess you’ve voided the warranty anyway....😊😊😊
Cheap enough to buy another..
@MRV yeah .. not a lot of room on the tank side.. but I'm looking to try and fit it in and also turn it around..
Turn the clamp away from exhaust. Use black hose all the way. Saves a lot of clamps.
Good idea apart from you would not be able to see the fuel running..
Don’t understand why you want to see the fuel running through the lines.
We can’t see this on our vehicles.
If fuel is not running through the lines, pretty sure we would know.
100% with you Lou
@@pauls6157 because the pump has to prime first on start up ..
Nice work Mick
Brilliant Sir Mick
Why thanks sir
Where's the link to the modification kit?
@@RonArgentina eBay mate
Great mods and info! Cheers!
Your welcome
Most people install filters upstream of the pump, not downstream of the pump.
No room.. if there was I would have ..
@@themowerman Makes sense - very good video, BTW.
@@mobiusx8117 ta mate
@@themowerman wrong answer !! for those fitting this system put the filter before the pump.. make room.
Where did you get the power supply and how to connect it?
It's in the comments section.. and I have a second video on fitting it.
Hi Mick,
Great video.
Where can I buy the improvemnt-kit?
Best from Denmark.
Hi mate .. eBay should have it
Mick: why not just replace the whole hose with the black instead of piecing together?
Apparently it needs to be a hard plastic pipe.. so it doesn't flex..
Replacing the flexible fuel pipe is totally overkill. The pipe will take whatever time it needs to fill up before delivering fuel to the heater. And there's a risk that the new pump will not be exactly 0.2 mL or will not be handled as the controller is expecting it to be. I don't think this mod is necessary at all, maybe the opposite.
Thermal insulation of the fuel line around the heater is quite necessary though, as well as for the air exhaust pipe over all its length, unless you have some heat exchanger around. I also zip-tied the fuel line as far away from the heater as I could.
I also replaced all the water-hose clamps with real stove pipe clamps, and I'll probably replace all the pipes with better quality airtight ones. I have no idea if the current cheap exhaust pipe can withstand the extra heat caused by the insulation, or nitrous or sulfuric oxidation from the diesel exhaust corroding fumes. Also, I plan on zig-zaging the exhaust pipe inside a wall going up, to use the wall as a thermal mass and retrieve all the burning hot heat otherwise wasted in the exhaust, so I'll probably add a water collector at the bottom to redirect the water condensation outdoors and prevent corrosion in the exhaust pipe.
Preventing the fuel tank from moving is also not a big deal, since the heater will be fixed on a wall, but if it's really a concern, I'd cut a sheet of insulating material and glue it to the case on both sides rather than adding metallic or wooden wedges, which may not handles high temperatures properly.
Also, you should not wrap the pipe with aluminum foil, but use an insulation sleeve around the pipe or one that is already insulated. That's not the proper and maintenance-free way of doing so.
I hit the same issue of course with the horribly designed exhaust pipe and the 2 small feet that require an extension because the exhaust pipe just cannot fit between the feet if you intend to have the case stand on its own rather than fix it on the wall. The feet actually need to be high enough so that the exhaust pipe is rather far away from the ground. The tiny transparent plastic pipe near the exhaust and the heater also needs its insulation sleeve regardless of how insulated the exhaust pipe is.
Vevor may be a great tool brand present in the UK, France and other countries, but this specific diesel space heater is still cheap Chinese junk that does require quite substantial modding to make it safe and efficient. But at least it's doable.
Hi Mick can you send me the link on eBay to the fuel kit cant find it when I SERCH CHEERS MATT
Check this out! amzn.eu/d/6UDQ5o5
Nice video Mick, if I ever get one of these I'll know just what to do with it. 👍👊
Thanks cupcake
Hi Mick, maybe it’s me but the Amazon link to the heater takes me to a different type of heater, do you have a link to your type of heater.
Hi mate that one is out of stock and the prices are now on the way up..
@@themowerman , ah ok, thanks for the info.
The nylon fuel pipe is basically polyamid that is used on cars now. Its 100% ethanol proof (even diesel has ethanol in it now). You can help the pump by priming line from tank to pipe so its getting some fuel a bit quicker. Ithers have said that cold air feed pipe is better if a smooth bore as the corrugated pipe can cause too much intake turbulence 👍🏻
Subbed!
Ta for popping over.. it's all work in progress.. I will sort it .. ta for watching
@themowerman is it possible to fabricate a catalytic converter using a wood stove ceramic honeycomb catalytic converter? Is there room at the end of the burner and the heat exchanger casting to put in a square or disk of ceramic. The hot diesel exhaust would pass thru the catalytic honeycomb, enter the heat exchanger area, then pass backwards thru the outer annulus of the catalytic ceramic honeycomb to the exhaust. Both passages thru the catalytic material would increase the temperatures entering and exiting the heat exchanger. This would eliminate exhaust fumes and (possibly) reduce CO in the exhaust. Also, you can buy an ozone generator for your car lighter that you could pipe some intake air thru the ozone generator and into the exhaust to destroy residual CO left from the catalytic process.
Is there a link for the kit?
It's in the comment section mate .. you can find them on eBay
So.. After some time of having the heater going in the shed, are we going to see a verdict-video?
Would you like to see one.. ?
That was interesting. Nice fuel insulator trick
Glad you liked it!
@@themowerman I did! If I move up north I will have to learn these things