They banned my super cheap heating! 😡 New Diesel heater hacks tested proving efficiency and safety 🤯
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ธ.ค. 2023
- ** EXPAND THIS DESCRIPTION FOR MORE INFORMATION**
I recomend this diesel heater :
UK: amzn.to/41cCjZJ
USA: amzn.to/3uKf8tA
My heater that I use in the worksop
USA: s.vevor.com/bfP4ya
CA: s.vevor.com/bfQRPT
EU: s.vevor.com/bfQRP4
The Ulefone Armour 24 tough phone
Coupon code ($30 off): GETA24FG
UK: amzn.to/3H3LcLX
USA: amzn.to/47IxrxG
The Ulefone Armor 18T tough phone with built in thermal camera
Coupon code ($30 off): GETA24FG
UK: amzn.to/3TpDQd4
USA: amzn.to/3RGMTol
*Ulefone Armor Pad 2 Rugged Tablet
UK: amzn.to/48grLLe
US: amzn.to/48kJEse
Ulefone Armour 24 specifications
IP68/IP69K, MIL-STD-810H（Water proof, drop proof and dust proof ）
Versatile Light
6.78" FHD+ 120Hz
22000 mAh Mega Battery
MediaTek Helio G96
Up to 24 GB + 256 GB
Android 13
64 MP Wide-angle
64 MP Night Vision
Two IR LEDs
NFC + Google Pay
IR Blaster
Reverse Charging
**WIN** for just £5 enter the raffle competitions here: raffall.com/joshuadelisle
Note these raffles are sometimes to help charities and are to cover my costs to do honest reviews and to invest in making better content.
Please do suggest a charity that you believe is in need that I can look into helping via the comment section of my videos.
The winner of the raffle will be notified by Raffall or myself via email and on the Raffall website, never answer to messages on social media as they maybe scammers.
*TOPDON TC001 thermal image camera(Android)*:
UK: amzn.to/3uUVV8j
USA: amzn.to/48gkXxf
*TOPDON TC002 thermal image camera(IOS)*:
UK: amzn.to/3uPbe2A
USA: amzn.to/47LN3As
*Air quality monitor*:
UK: amzn.to/41f0Mxy
USA: www.walmart.com/ip/Hofun-Air-...
*Recommended air quality monitor reviews*:
( @Outside-In ) Six Air Quality Monitor Comparisons PLUS a Tear-Down of a Fake Meter: • Six Air Quality Monito...
( @electronicsNmore ) Home Air Quality Testing & Tips(Dust/Toxins/Allergies): • Home Air Quality Testi...
Oil Drum 205ltr/45gallon (Note not all heating oil services will deliver without an official/approved tank, it's worth contacting your local supplier first):
UK: amzn.to/41qr7J4
*Tools*:
Rivnut driver:
UK: amzn.to/3TuVLz3
USA: amzn.to/41aUKhe
Pop riveter:
UK: amzn.to/3GwH6eJ
USA: amzn.to/3GxKl5M
UKAmazon -
Power supply 240v - 12v 300w: amzn.to/3BhmvZO
Fuel line connector hose - amzn.to/3HTVKgi
Solid fuel line - amzn.to/40Gk1iR
Fuel filters - amzn.to/3IemhXj
Spare parts (gaskets, glowplug, atomizer etc) - amzn.to/3XlUDvG
Fuel switch - amzn.to/3DWEsOA
USA Amazon -
Power supply 110v - 12v 250/300w: amzn.to/3PaYJoc
Fuel line connector hose - amzn.to/3xfquDC
Solid fuel line - amzn.to/3YIDFJg
Fuel filters - amzn.to/3RNr7Oq
Spare parts (gaskets, glowplug, atomizer etc) - amzn.to/3JYGNMF
Fuel switch - amzn.to/3YL6Xaa
My designs/comissioning: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/DelisleD...
Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his welded and hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.
In this episode we modify the parking diesel heater again to see if a thermal sand battery is worth the hype, we test if fan assisted exhaust cooling is better for efficientcy and we discuss the self suffientcy legality of the diesel heater in the new world
My Patreon page: patreon.com/JoshuaDeLisle?utm...
For latest news and insights visit our instagram page here:
/ delisledesign - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I hope this video was helpful and here are some key feedback comments so far:
They may not allow delivery of kerosene without an 'approved' tank.
Reversing the direction of the air blower mod may give better results to improve efficiency.
The heater was held at customs because of poor instructions which could cause someone to use it dangerously. The heater itself is fine.
I'm looking forward to hearing your other thoughts on the subject and any ideas for future videos. Here are some links but there is also more in the description. Cheers J
*I recomend this diesel heater* :
UK: amzn.to/41cCjZJ
USA: amzn.to/3uKf8tA
*The Ulefone Armour 24 tough phone*
Coupon code ($30 off): GETA24FG
UK: amzn.to/3H3LcLX
USA: amzn.to/47IxrxG
*The Ulefone Armor 18T tough phone with built in thermal camera*
Coupon code ($30 off): GETA24FG
UK: amzn.to/3TpDQd4
USA: amzn.to/3RGMTol
*Ulefone Armor Pad 2 Rugged Tablet
UK: amzn.to/48grLLe
US: amzn.to/48kJEse
*Ulefone Armour 24 specifications*
IP68/IP69K, MIL-STD-810H（Water proof, drop proof and dust proof ）
Versatile Light
6.78" FHD+ 120Hz
22000 mAh Mega Battery
MediaTek Helio G96
Up to 24 GB + 256 GB
Android 13
64 MP Wide-angle
64 MP Night Vision
Two IR LEDs
NFC + Google Pay
IR Blaster
Reverse Charging
***WIN*** for just £5 enter the raffle competitions here: raffall.com/joshuadelisle
Note these raffles are sometimes to help charities and are to cover my costs to do honest reviews and to invest in making better content.
Please do suggest a charity that you belive is in need that I can look into helping via the comment section of my videos.
The winner of the raffle will be notified by Raffall or myself via email and on the Raffall website, never answer to messages on social media as they maybe scammers.
*TOPDON TC001 thermal image camera(Android)*:
UK: amzn.to/3uUVV8j
USA: amzn.to/48gkXxf
*TOPDON TC002 thermal image camera(IOS)*:
UK: amzn.to/3uPbe2A
USA: amzn.to/47LN3As
*Air quality monitor*:
UK: amzn.to/41f0Mxy
USA: www.walmart.com/ip/Hofun-Air-Quality-Monitor-Professional-Detector-5-1-Indoor-Pollution-Tester-AQI-PM2-5-PM10-HCHO-Formaldehyde-TVOC-Particulate-Meter-Home-Car-Office-H/2335367669
*Recommended air quality monitor reviews*:
( @Outside-In ) Six Air Quality Monitor Comparisons PLUS a Tear-Down of a Fake Meter: th-cam.com/video/K3-Yvhk0C8o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Zqa6tTHEKoSoTxWP
( @electronicsNmore ) Home Air Quality Testing & Tips(Dust/Toxins/Allergies): th-cam.com/video/LxPfk2rluvo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pS94FOxduTFk76We
*Oil Drum 205ltr/45gallon* (Note not all heating oil services will deliver without an official/approved tank, it's worth contacting your local supplier first):
UK: amzn.to/41qr7J4
The 'Covertment' has 'band' it because it's efficient... that's the real reason !
the tough phones are already unavailable :(
Old denim jeans are a really great waste vege oil filter. Google it 👍😁
Here's another idea for (supplimental) heating: did you know that composting is exothermic--i.e. produces heat? Up to 70C at times. It occurred to me that if you buried a car radiator (or two or three) in a compost pile--mostly wood waste, as that takes the longest to break down, but any proper ratio of 'greens' to 'browns' would do--and pumped water through it to a second radiator set up with a fan in your shop, that would offset at least some of the fuel you would need to burn. If you look up 'Jean Pain compost heating', you'll find a *LOT* of info on what it is all about, including how to harvest the methane that composting produces as yet another energy source.
Cheers!
26:40 you can't talk about temperature in %, because the temperature scale is a relative scale, 0C is actually 273.15K. do the math again in K and you get another % value. or do it in F and get another %. so just never talk about % when you talk temperatures. its not applicable so its wrong. you should talk temperature difference instead in degrees.
The last two minutes summarizing the stupidity and irony of the modern world is just brilliant. Common sense and practical knowledge from a great man. Well done my friend
You're very kind. I'm not always right so it's good to debate and research these things and not just nod with what's put in front of us. Cheers J
Last two mins were absolutely mint - and true... sadly!
𝙵𝚞𝚗𝚔𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚐𝚘𝚟 𝚑𝚊𝚗𝚐𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚕𝚘𝚝
Rememeber common sense is not so common any more
I’ve been heat dependent on a wood burner for the last 7 yrs. £0 for the wood, and £0 spent on gas. £0 VAT for HMRC 💪🖕
From the US it is nice to hear people say this stuff over seas too!
Absolutely loved your closing comments on this one. They don't want you to have it if they can't tax it! Write it in gold!
Thank you. Lots more scepticism coming soon. Cheers J
Masterful closing comments for sure and what you said should ring in everyone's ears. Its about control and taxes nothing more
A massive safety aspect you missed on the Hicalory heater.
The power adapter mains lead may not have a fuse, but it does have a plug where the Earth pin is - wrongly - sheathed.
Chinese factories do get confused about the function of the Earth in a mains plug. The Earth pin should be the first pin to make contact and the last to disconnect: hence it being the longest pin. That way you are protected for the longest time. Similarly, the Earth wire inside the plug should have the longest length of 'slack' wire so that if the wires work loose, the Earth will still be connected - and the user protected - even if Live and Neutral wires break free.
It's the Earth pin that pushes the safety shutters aside in the mains socket, so that the Earth pin connects first and disconnects last to the Earth contacts immediately inside the socket. Whereas the Live and Neutral contacts are recessed deeper inside.
With the Earth pin sheathed, the Earth will be insulated as the Earth pin cannot touch the socket's Earth contacts - the device will not be Earthed...
Perhaps you might like to notify H M Customs and the retailer about the seriousness of that anomaly.
I really hope more than three people read that!
wow, i'm glad i read the comments, never thought of this before. i'll keep the ground wire longest from now on
Perhaps Hcal should make the Earth pin all-plastic. The power supply brick label indicates that it is double-insulated, so should not be earthed. ( Going by general standards, the label is probably decorative )
It isn't that they should make it plastic, it's having the isolation on a metal Earth pin in the first place. This device is metal cased and therefore needs an Eatth. The problem is that they are confused why there is shielding there in the first place.
Walter: "These are not the ones that built the railrode here, Dude!"
Just thought that I would mention the exhaust angle, if anybody is looking at harvesting the heat from it. Whether using water, air, sand or whatever medium to extract the heat from the exhaust (which is a great idea)….. the water vapour within the exhaust gases will always condense inside the exhaust pipe. Therefore, it’s best to keep the exhaust pipe at a continuous downward angle, so that the water can escape….. outside, ideally.
Also, maybe have a look for a smooth pipe oppose to the ribbed one that comes as standard. If you used some stainless plumbing pipe and fittings….. it will last forever!!
Thanks for the videos, Joshua. Always engaging, interesting, and love the humour 🤪.
Very good points. Cheers J
In corrugated exhaust pipe at any angle there are always pockets for water to collect. It is constantly evaporating/vaporizing as more is condensing, in a process that turns gas to liquid to vapour in the exhaust. Even once shutdown, the pipe being 80°C will speed up evaporation of all of the carbonic acid, eventually. Its deliberately a large surface area/volume ratio. If you use a smooth pipe you do maximize the output of carbonic acid, but to paraphrase Dr Ian Malcolm "we were so busy asking whether or not we could, we forgot to ask ourselves if we should"
I wouldn’t let that water get outside, it’s going to be contaminated.
Make the exhaust, going down, and if you do use the barrel for hot water, have the pipe continue downward, then up and out.
At the bottom of the dip, put a tee pointed down to a small tank, with the opening of the pipe near the bottom. Put a float valve into the tank, and place it so there is always a few centimeters of water in the tank.
That will keep exhaust from escaping through the tank.
The float should activate a small pump that would go to the sewer when it gets full enough.
The wastewater treatment plant can handle that stuff a whole lot better than your lawn or anywhere else that stuff would run, such as a stream or river.
If you want to extract more heat into the water in your tank, put a finned pipe inside the tank for better heat extraction.
BYW, put a vent on your heat tube close to the burner end, and turn the fan around to blow the air in, rather than pulling it out.
It’ll make for better heat coming out of the heat tube, and it won’t be warming the exhaust pipe on its way out.
It’s rather like the way modern furnaces work, by getting the most heat out of whatever you are pulling heat from.
Not only the condense water have to go “down stream”, the material holding/transporting it have to be resistant to corrosion in the long term.
The exhaust gas condensate is rather acidic so it is hard on many materials that's what we found out around here with the condensing fuel oil furnaces it was actually rotting out the heat exchangers but they were considerably thinner and cheaper than the ones these are using
I'm off-grid here in Finland. I provide my own power: in summer this is easy, solar. In winter, heating is done with wood - with a very efficient wood gasification boiler. Power in winter is generated with a diesel generator running on biodiesel I make in summer from waste vegetable oil. Using wood is very common here, especially in the countryside. It's the cheapest fuel for this, and readily available everywhere. I produce mine (cut and split with electrical tools when I have excess solar power) from my own forest, turning a tree farm into a diverse forest.
You're living the dream. Well done. Cheers J
Far as i understand in Finland waste vegetable oil is classed as dangerous waste and cannot legally be given to anyone except for kemira or other official recycling company glamorate.. that then burns it to produce power and heat, while charging the restaurant owner recycling fee... I presume you know some restaurant owner that didnt mind giving you it trough back door, or are you using that much vegetable oil that you can run it trough generator??
@@Hellsong89 It's even allowed (in home use) to put it into plastic containers and put in mixed waste, and some wholesalers have cooking oil reception points. It's not very difficult to get hold of, and it's not like I need a lot of it: 100L goes a long way (only needed in November, December and January).
What about using wvo in central heating oil burner ? Im about to purchase central oil burner soon. I have already colected 2t of wvo:)
@@kaidokivitoa9127 Likely works fine (like this Diesel heater does) - it's just easier for me to use wood as primary heating solution an WVO for electricity. Wood is just easier to deal with and abundant in my case.
This was one of the most superb, well articulated videos I’ve seen yet on the heaters. Flipping awesome!!! Absolutely brilliant - he’s like the Colin furze of keeping us warm!
Thank you so much. Hopefully I'll show you how to get electricity for cheap next. Cheers J
As klauss schuab said and the WEF is enforcing.... "you will own nothing and be happy".
When you run the exhaust through a radiator to super-cool it and pull more heat out of it the condensed liquid it produces has a very high probability of becoming acidic, so you may want to keep an eye on the radiator you've added for rusting out faster than expected.
Indeed, it is easier to heat a medium from low to high, to gradually heat it up, if you start at the hot side it heats up fast but then can't heat anymore because the air is already hotter than the exhaust. Also the flow needs to be higher than the flow of the exhaust, it would be fun to see the flows on that.
Yes. Might want to opt for an aluminium radiator since aluminium is more resistant to acid corrosion vise. Just dont get salt water on it; aluminium hate that
what the aluminum do with the salty water?@@RealGengarTV
@@youvebeenspooked i don't know.. it's just salty
@@RealGengarTV I would have suggested Zinc Chromate coating to the radiator but upon closer look, it wouldn't be a good idea since it emits toxic chromium fumes upon heating.
Top tip for using WVO... Mix it with 20% petrol then leave it for a couple of days before you filter it. The petrol acts as a solvent and 90% of the crude drops to the bottom of the tank you're storing it in. Great video by the way
Interesting idea. I'll possibly have a look at that. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleI hope that you don't mind me, chipping in,,,
but this works!!❤ Really!!
Yeah, but you are adding to the cost again. it's going to cancel the saving out using petrol🤷🏻♂️. Unless you can filter petrol again and use it for something?😂... faff springs to mind
@@Dolmar-Rick good point...
@@Dolmar-Rick If it's mixed with gasoline then you can use it as is, so instead of mixing with kerosene or diesel you just use it mixed with 10-20% petrol and that should make it thin enough and burn easier. Seen plenty guys running veg oil mixed with only 10% gasoline on diesel cars, not sure the best ratio for these heaters but it should be similar
Imagine starting a fire in your house and being surprised it filled up with smoke. It's like some people never saw the back of a running car.
Tesla owners, that’s your answer lol
Dear other commenters:
Don’t take it politically.
idiots making things illegal, a classic ^.^
@@techsethI know it's a joke, but driving electric does not equal stupidity 🤗
People have suffocated in tents from burning things in there and going to sleep. People think the government will protect them from all danger and the doctors will cure it all.
@@Kasperbjerby not saying that. Some people are super use to electric heaters, so I can understand how someone may forget to route the exhaust outside. Just like how someone who has driven Tesla all their lives may forget a gas vehicle should not run inside a garage or forget to turn it off. It’s happened before, it’s just not accustom to them.
This channel is a hidden gem that I am absolutely so glad I found
Thank you so much. Lots more to come. Cheers J
You should have that little fan blowing in instead of sucking out. When trying to exchange heat in that way, it's best to have the two medias (exhaust gas, and cooling air) going opposite directions. Also, not sure if you have already or not, but make sure your long run of exhaust has a slope out so the moisture condensing will run out instead of staying in there.
And blowing the air instead of sucking it will create turbulent flow instead of linear which should be more effective.
And the poor little fan will run cooler and probably last longer
Carbon monoxide floats in air while carbon dioxide sinks. Idk if sloping it in either direction is safe... but then again, it is forced air.
if I had to choose though, I'd slope it downwards from the source. Then carbon dioxide would be the main gas to worry about coming back in (especially after turning it off.) And at least that gas is detectable even without assistance. - but then we'd have to make sure there is always a fan cooling the exhaust. The slope would make heat rise towards the heater.
Unless it's balanced either side? More of a question really. @@Styrola
The idea is that negative pressure will make it less efficient right? Having a channel to flow will be efficient because entropy will lead it?
Please turn the fan around so it blows air into the duct. This brings the cooler room air in at the cooler end of the exhaust pipe and more total heat will be transferred. Also called a counter flow heat exchanger.
Alternatively, have the fan extracting at the hot end - although your idea keeps the fan cooler, thus extending its life due to the fan keeping cool while in use 🙂
Also see an opportunity to direct this heat to a second "zone" of the workshop adding comfort to where you are working.
This!
Also having aluminium fins attached to the exhaust pipe would make heat transfer more efficient.
All proper ideas having the fan pushing the air into the exchanger is the best and matching the air flow will help. Having fins to promote more exchange would help.
Yes the counter flow makes sense.
This is the best phone advertisement ever!
Honestly - over the past 3 or 4 year's there has been some nightmare installs shown on here .
From people not understanding the need to keep the exhaust and inlet pipes running down hill to the orientation of the diesel pump being from upside down to horizontal .
The instructions that come with them are pretty clear and straight forward to understand .
People are the problem not the machine .
They should ban stupid people /s
But seriously speaking, the long term durability of this system when cooling the exhaust is questionable. Many heating systems actually avoid running below the exhaust dew point, as the resulting corrosive condensate will eat away the metal components, unless they are made of a suitable corrosion resistant material.
@@carlossilva3122 The supplied exhaust is usually left as is , it's the interconected heat echangers used that would see the corrosion . However as most choose domestic radiators with wall thickness many times that of a car silencer that can last a decade . Your taking in decades before any degredation of the steel occurs .
Last week my neighbour asked me to help remove car battery terminal. He could not figure it out yet somehow he managed to get drivers license and a job.
@@nodrinkingproblemhere9095 Some people are just not meant for manual hands on work - Brother-in-law pulled his kids around 2 mile on a sledge to my house , his face was red and the sweat was pouring from him - he had the rope tied on to the back and had dragged it backwards with the skid ends digging in all the way . He bought a new bed and used 6" nails to attach the head board , didn't bother looking at the other end for the 2 screw fixings as he'd just placed the base down the wrong way around even though he'd undone the screws on the old bed to take it apart ! lol . Yet he was the manager of a national home improvement store ? .
Quick note about fuel pumps.. - they should be mounted vertically due to their self-lubricating nature. 45 degrees is a compromise but horizontal is a bad idea. Air bubbles accumulate in the top of the pump and eventually the top side of the piston receives no lubrication.
If you didn't already; counter flowing the fluid over the exhaust allows for more efficient extraction. Allow the colder side of the exhaust to warm the air and have the air flow over hotter and hotter sections of the exhaust, so the temperature difference is high across the box section.
I was just about to post about counter current cooling.
Great point. He could just turn the fan over and make it blow into the cooler end. Must admit, I wondered where the air was coming in from… anyway, wherever it was, that should work, and as you say, it increases the temperature difference giving better heat extraction over the whole length.
Just came here to write this. Would be cool if he could measure and post update
Plus you won't have to worry about the fan melting from the heat that way as well.@@simontillson482
Why not use the fan on the heater to pre heat the air going into the heater? I have seen a video of it and that guy picked up 20-30 degrees c on the outlet temp of the heater and no fan needed.
I dont usually sub because of 1 video, but your logical and practical approach, effective communication skills and indomitable humour make it an easy choice. Absolutely useful and informative video, thanks!!
Thank you so much. Lots more to come soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Thumbnail is top tier also on this one.
Thank you Evan! appreciate your honesty and your candidness. Never change and hope to learn more from your concise videos in the future. Top man! 👍🏼
Thank you so much. Lots more to come. Cheers J
Twenty years ago, I ran my Diesel VW Bus on pure vegetable oil - there was a heated Bosch Diesel filter that helped a lot. I'd also recommend using a water separator in the fuel line, as frying oil often contains some water.
And maybe you could try using small pebbles instead of sand, then you could perhaps use is as a thermal mass or blow air through them to extract heat.
Excellent ideas worth trying. Cheers J
Surely water in the fuel is much less of an issue in a burner like this than in a piston engine? I'm honestly asking. It sounds fascinating.
@@Brainchild110Water poisons the combustion, never a good idea to have it on diesel.
You could also lengthen the exhaust 3 or 4 times around your building inside.
"Add vents to distribute the exhaust, so it does not concentrate in one part of the garage" just kidding DONT DO THAT!@@Princess_Paula_T.
I don't have the words to express how much I love and appreciate this video. All I can say is thank you, Joshua. ☮ from NY.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it up. Very informative.
You're doing all the things I want to do 😭 Good for you!! I'm actually extremely pleased that you have all the know how to do this stuff! Great video!
If you want to extract even more energy out of this system, try putting insulation between the exhaust pipe and the wall. Since the wall goes to the outside, it is going to be cooler and will essentially be a heat sink. By insulating it you have more trapped thermal energy to siphon off which will increase your efficiency specifically on the draw of the exhaust.
Insulate the wall, not the exhaust pipe. Better solution is to add enough pipe onto the exhaust pipe to create a heat exchanger so as to extract as much heat as possible (i.e. exhaust reaches close to room temperature) BEFORE it goes into the wall. Or in other words, run the exhaust pipe into a radiator, which then has a pipe on the outlet going to the wall and then outside.
@@akulkis isn't that what he's already done with the 8' long exhaust running along the inside of the wall?
@@monkeysuncle2816
Yeah. I see now that I misread the post I was replying to.
Also add a layer of reflective foil to the top of the insulation- this will reflect infrared heat from the pipe back into the room.
Hi, you can increase the efficiency of the ducted fan solution by reversing the flow of the fan. I.e. push colder air in at the point furthest away from the heater. This keeps a more constant temperature differential between the air and the exhaust pipe temperature and thus better heat exchange.
Yes, I thought the same. (Just edited this because I reread what I'd written and realised I was previously talking gibberish!) But, It's called the principle of contra flow. When you want two fluids to exchange the most heat in the most efficient way, put the cold inlet of secondary fluid (could be liquid or gas) into the heat exchanger at the cold end of the primary fluid. That way the cooler primary can still give up heat to the colder secondary) The computer fan wouldn't enjoy being so close to the 200•C end of the Exhaust pipe either, so reversing the polarity of the fan and blowing air in rather than moving it to the other end of your shroud and sucking the air out will reverse the flow like you say. That's the way forward... 🤔
Came to the comments to say the same thing.... bump
Definitely this. Might be better for the fan as well, because it's way cooler.
Correct on the counter flow. Also, pushing room air in is essential for the life of the server fan by having cool vs hot gas cooking the windings. @@ColinWoodpeckerUK
That's just amazing. But with his box mounted to the wall, that might not work out as well as it could.
That's an EDUCATIONAL CONTENT. With the winter outside and the fronts in Europe moving west, I'm so thankful for this vid, it just checked so many preparedness boxes that I have a solution for and don't have to literally worry anymore.
Thank you so much. The next video coming will be even better as I explore generating cheap electricity. Cheers J
I see more and more of these types of channels pop up and it's amazing. Some good stuff to be inspired by. Keep it up. I could watch this stuff for hours.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Another variation on the forced air through the shroud technique would be to make the shroud slightly larger than the diameter of the exhaust pipe and use the fan to PUSH the air through. This would increase the velocity of the air around the pipe and therefore give a larger temp differential, and spare the fan from the hottest air.
I'm definitely getting one of these systems when I buy my house.
Larger temperature differential means higher efficiency where the transfer of heated air occurs.
I had the same idea pushing the air should be the better option. But my main reasoning is different - it is the heat differential. If you push the air(or suck out on the heater side), then the colder ambient air meets the already cooled exhaust pipe there and while it travels to the heater side it warms up on an increasingly hot exhaust pipe. That means on an sufficiently long exhaust pipe the exhaust gas temperature can reach almost ambient temperature inside. A greater airflow or increased surface area on the exhaust pipe would improve too (or reach that result earlier). Probably taking the idea from the output pipe - a pipe to take in the air close from the floor, which should be cooler should be an improvement too,
I'm blown away that nobody is talking about him using a cellphone as a hammer for half an hour
Right? XD
🤣🤣
That did make me chuckle.... a lot
And using to most fragile part of it as well, the screen. Would have used the side or the back, there is clearly damage to the LCD even if the glass isn't cracked.
Funny to see that around 9:00 minutes you see multiple hammers
Love your content, your enthusiasm and energy. Very knowledgeable and informative. I no longer work due to my incapacity, mental illness. I love seeing things being made. I used to work in injection moulding, and tool making, got some understanding of some manufacturing process. Take care Joshua all the best to you and your family. Great content.
Thank you so much. That's very kind of you. I pray that you can recover and find your strength. Have a blessed Christmas. Cheers J
Love from cold lapland, I've been on the fence since your first heater video but it seems that this absolutely is the most convenient way to heat my outside workshop.
Many thanks for the continuing morale boost for becoming a self sufficient "guy who builds things".
Thank you. These cheap Diesel heaters are great for the money and more importantly the fact they are easy to maintain/service and install on your own. It's important though to take extra precautions to make sure it's safe, so things like CO2 and fire alarms are a must. Cheers J
Glad hearing someone mentioning the bio mass "green energy" scandal !
Great video 👌
If it doesn't make sense then foul play is at the heart is my thought on most subjects. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle If the government have their hands in it you can safely assume boots are being filled and as an added benefit the whole thing is handled as incompetently as possible.
Thx for doing this, filming it and sharing it. 👍👍👍👍👍
Brilliant last 30 seconds. Absolutely spot on! Looking forward to your next "off-grid" heating/power contraptions !
Thank you. Lots to come in the new year. Cheers J
For your air heat exchanger, run the air the other direction. Put the cooler air next to the cooler pipe. Your exhausted gasses will be cooler and you will scavenge more heat from the pipe.
Agree! To add, it is called Counter-current Exchange and it can have almost 100% efficiency en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Countercurrent_exchange
So you suggest reversing the fan I installed? Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleyes, as well as the efficiency improvement, as per my other comment a moment ago, it will improve the fan life because it will run cooler.
@GlennBrockett Sound like a good idea... a simple mod... and the heated air will vent through the holes in the top of the cowling.
Oh, what is the outlet arrangement? If you haven't made another opening, make one at the end close to the burner. Make it quite small, so there is a positive pressure in the duct. It probably won't make a practical difference, but it might reduce the chance of exhaust leaks into your shed, because the pressure gradient will be slightly harder to overcome than just going out the silencer... With a computer fan the difference probably isn't enough to have a big impact though. But meh. Why not.
Has anyone mentioned Afterburner for these diesel heaters? It's a project by a guy in Australia and he sells PCBs that turn these heaters into real thermostats which start and stop the heater to keep your set temperature and a ton of other features like monitoring fuel usage.
I can't believe these don't already have a thermostat.
can you tell me the name of his channel or the video title ?
They've been in touch with me and sending one for review. Cheers J
@@466rudy6vevor new bluetooth heater does have a thermostat
@@joshuadelislesounds great. Is the recommended heater in your pinned post from Amazon compatible? Or does it need a different ECU?
That fan is a very good way of extracting heat from that pipe.
The only thing I can think of to get just a little more heat from that pipe is with heat exchange fins around the pipe to have a higher surface-to-air ratio.
Just make sure that the fins run with the air flow and not parallel.
You might need an extra fan doing that to get the needed airflow.
someone who cares more about the right answer than the answer they want. this is a breath of fresh air. no pun intended.
Excellent presentation from a highly intelligent individual, an excellent presenter is able to highlight the necessities without the b/s no one cares about, which inspires me & motivates to think outside the square. Well done mate, keep it up 👍
Thank you. I certainly don't get it 100% right all the time. I already have some comments that make me question a few of my previous thoughts but that's good. It's always good to have pre conceived ideas and beliefs tested so you can find the truth. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleYou are doing a Fantastic job , Thank You!!
Best Wishes and Kindest Regards,. XxX.
you're welcome
@@joshuadelisle
Love it. My unasked for two bits: A larger diameter exhaust pipe, to reduce flow restriction over longer lengths with some sort of addition to increase hot gas contact with heat transferring surfaces. Sand battery has a nice set of benefits for a shop such as yours for overall comfort and economy once you are managing the heaters on, off, and hz with an esp32 controller that knows when to expect you and when you are about to close up for the night.
Big diameter exhaust, less flow restriction **and** more time in the exhaust so more time for heat to be lost into the room. Perhaps use aluminum for the pipe as good heat conductor. Stainless steel not so good.
Love it. Great presentation. Your chat and humour really fit the subject well. I'll do the same in my shed!
Thank you Brother. Cheers J
Ending just hits with logic like you hit the nail with the phone. It was amazing video, thank you.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Hi from Canada Joshua, so you lot are the reason my wood is so expensive, lol. I started watching do-it-yourself videos, and you popped up, and I'm shocked you don't have more subs. Great information and well explained. Thank you.
You're very kind thank you. Yes also any wood chips are taken and no longer available to purchase over heat for the same reason. Cheers J
That plug isn't BS1363 compliant, not just that it isn't fused, but also the size and shape is designed so you can't reach around it with your fingers with plugging in/out and potentially touching the pins and shocking yourself
Another thing to add to the list of things that aren't safe with the safe heater
Yep. Cheers J
The pins are the wrong size and the earth pin has insulation on it, which is the norm for anything dodgy from China
What is the BS rating for fresh air? The government might be considering a ban over 500cu ft per day!
But it won’t get banned because it’s not being recommended on a video with 4M views.
Thanks! Just about everything I want out of a YT video. Humour, intelligence, practicality, and common sense. I was going to send you some sticks from a nearby wood but opted for 5 quid instead. Thanks again.
Thank you so much, that's very kind. Your support is much appreciated. Cheers J
great work! If your priority is immediate heat over lingering heat, all you need is a longer exhaust pipe to the point where the outflow is room temperature. For varying situations, you could have the end bit in sections with valves for multiple exhaust lengths to switch between. Insulating your walls and crevices will do more than sealing in exhaust heat with sand on water, I'd guestimate.
This sort of video gets people talking and thinking love it !!!
As a suggestion, you could replace the exhaust pipe with a finned tube radiator. Due to the increased surface area you will extract much more heat. Also put the exhaust at an angle to make sure that any water can drip out and doesn't collect in the pipe when extracting the heat.
BTW, I like the idea with the fan, but how about replacing it with a 230-volt fan? They are more powerful and, considering the losses in the power supply, probably more efficient than a 12-volt one.
I disagree with the use of AC mains fans, they are more expensive but less efficient than PC Fans.
I run a temperature and humidity control for my inverters on 12V, the switch power supply is 98% efficient and the brushless DC Motors I guess 90%
DC Fans are much more efficient for same air flow, can run off battery in the event of a power failure and are highly controllable compared to most AC or shaded pole fans. You don't need super powerful fans, you need fans that can provide the airflow. There is a difference between airflow and "powerful".
An 80% efficient power supply, which is well and truly within possibility even for cheap chineseum, will still be more efficient than a shaded pole AC fan.
Does the condensing exhaust not cause risk of it corroding?
Your sand battery is likely losing alot of retained heat into the exterior wall that its mounted to. Im of firm belief , … that it would be warmer if it was a couple inches off the wall. It would also retain the heat for a longer duration
On the fan front, wouldn't a repurposed stove fan that is powered by heat be a better option
I appreciate your efforts. Keep fighting the good fight, and Merry Christmas.
Thank you so much. That's very kind of you. I'll be sure to continue bringing more alternatives. Merry Christmas. Cheers J
Just a note on efficiency. If you try to recover too much heat from the exhaust you will drop the temperature below the dew point of the fuel. This will cause a build up of soot like deposits in the exhaust. In time this build up will reduce the ability of the unit to clear the exhaust resulting in poor combustion within the burner and a serious reduction in efficiency.
So, to be efficient and safe check the dew point temperature of the fuel you use and allow an extra 10% margin and this figure should be the temperature of the flue gas leaving the exhaust pipe. Your system will then be operating at 100% design efficiency.
I haven’t read all the comments but the most effective way to recover heat from airflow (exhaust) is for the outside to be finned like an air cooled motor. This gives a much greater surface area to extract heat. Alternatively wrap copper tubing around the exhaust and run water through it to an automotive radiator with fan attached. Love your work, cheers.
Great video. I wanted to make a suggestion for the exhaust. I recommend running the exhaust through a water type baseboard heater. These heaters have a pipe for the water to run through and I think it would work perfectly to exhaust the gases outside. Those heaters have fins which allow for more surface area to transfer the heat more effectively.
Plus you could use the bottom tap of the heater to let the water out that is gonna be there from the exhaust fumes
Oh man!!!
I found you by accident and you earn my instant subscription. Our brains are wired the same way
Brilliant video. Love seeing real world testing and experiments and it's given me the motivation to add some sort of heating to my garage so I can work on the car in winter - albeit British winters that aren't anything like what the US and Canada experience but still not fun when you can feel the concrete floor sucking the heat from your feet.
I too love the smell of wood smoke especially fruit wood being used on a wood burner. I also miss the smell of kerosene and Jet A1 in the morning. I worked 24 years at an airport so kerosene is a very familiar smell.
Well said at the end! Our country is becoming a joke, you can't even fish, hunt, live off the land like a hermit without huge costs. I think its rather sad that someone if they choose to can't live truly free in a shack some place or even do it recreationally from time to time without mega amounts of money. I know we only have so much land and resources but i feel not many would truly want to live and do this kinda of stuff anyway. People dont like effort these days and getting stuck in. Things like fishing, burning own wood, heck even using the river (seriously look up boat rules and licences) are good examples of how bad things are.
Yet to do those things is the most green thing you can do to help the environment yet we're not allowed. If it doesn't make sense foul play is at the heart. Cheers J
LMFAO. Your ending in the last 1 minute was great!! Keep up the good work!! If we get our house we're looking at, it will have an extended garage/workshop/utility room. I'll definitely get one of these to heat it up!
Thank you so much. All the very best. Cheers J
*IDK how i found you but im excited and im glad im here*
Happy New Year, hope you and all are well....looking forward to seeing some more great content this year.!!!
Thank you so much and happy new year to you too. Lots to come. I'm making a diy power plant next. Cheers J
Great video as always.
But if everyone had wood burners then the wood you collect for free would be very scarce and you would find the Dheads deforesting our own woods just to burn, it would be like the good old smog days. I live near north wales and lots of people have log fires. I agree the smell is nice. But if you took your air meter to a town I will bet that the air quality is rubbish. We all need to breathe clean-ish air. The thing now with mass burning of wood is that they employ the same principles that the catalytic converters use in cars. They harness the gasses into a chamber and further gets cleaned before it gets exhausted into the air. Homes however don't do this it goes straight into the air. Nuclear is they way to go and even fission.
As an Engineer myself, I have thought over the years about heating conservation. The answer is the Sun.
Everything gets heated via infrared , We need to find a way of making materials like cladding,roof tiles, tarmac etc that can harness it, then we need to turn that heat into potential or even chemical energy and then further harness this into a super conductor or battery and store it.
Every house should have a battery a bit like water harvesting.
The world is filled with untapped energy, the waves, the wind and the sun. It's all about thinking outside the box.
Imagine a new road coating that could harness the light, the world is full of them and guess what? They all point upwards.
Roof tiles that do the same thing.
Any way great video, great humor and keep tinkering :)
A friend of mine has got the same banned model and he received an email from his supplier to say that it must be disposed of or destroyed, not because there was anything wrong with it, but because the user guide specifically didn't contain a particular warning phrase.
I really hope he laughed and ignored that email.
great video joshua very informative and entertaining ,that phone looks perfect yet so funny ,please keep up the great work
Thank you for adding American to the temps displayed on the screen 👍 I also try and get as many tax breaks as possible. I just came across you’re channel. Definitely subscribed.
Love the dedication to detail and accurate stats! Didnt intend to watch it all but ended up finding it all interesting since it was so well documented and researched and didn't leave me with a bunch of questions that kill my next two hours researching them as I'm the "HAVE to know" type 😂
Defo earnt yourself a new sub!
Thank you so much. I'm glad you found value in watching my videos. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle your dedication to ensuring all information is both present AND accurate is highly appreciated in this day n age of TH-cam! Fantastic work
Great video! Love the info but especially love the entertainment value LoL!!! Also, Ulefone (used for pounding nails at 9:42) are THE best rugged phones hands down! I have several and will never buy any other brand of phone, ever! Thanks!
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Really informative and helpfull video! Insulate your door with just reflective padded foil will help reducing heat loss dramatically and is easy and cheap to do. The next step would be to replace the door with one that has a seperat entrance door(and while you;re at it, that door can be the 40mm insulated one )
Thank you. I might build a porch at the side with a two door system so I can close one behind me. I need the two large garage doors for the large projects I do now and again. Some lengths of steel are over 8m so I pass it through the workshop. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle I Can't believe you have not insulated the doors: They are a huge cold radiator, probably more than 50 sq ft. I obtained a load of fruit and veg boxes made of polystyrene from my local greengrocer and cut the base, sides and lids to make flat panels about 1/2" thick to cover my double garage door and it has made an amazing difference. When you touch it now it feels warm. I replaced the roof with insulated corrugated steel sheets as well.
@@terrymcalinden889 nice. Cheers J
Just popping in to say I thoroughly enjoyed your video. The information presented and your stage presence was enough to keep one engaged without resorting to schtick. I was hoping for a waste oil furnace vid, but couldn’t click away!
Thank you so much. Cheers J
I stumbled across you post and was taken back in time by the Government inspectors used to visit me. More interest with getting their visit over in time to get 9 holes in on the way back home. My heart goes out to guys out there like yourself who GET THINGS DONE despite the attention of Pratts. Keep well.
Thank you. Cheers J
I suspect that wet sand would have taken a lot of the energy out in the process of drying it before getting better results, I think it’s called evaporative cooling. I’m going to start playing around with sand batteries over winter to work out how we might utilise them in our place. Yes to self sufficiency! Looking forward to the steam turbine stuff :)
That's a very good point. Cheers J
Don't forget usually in coldet temperatures the humidity is also lower. I'm not talking about the rain seasons like late spring or early fall. Just saying pretty much winter. The heat travels to colder areas. As the water evaporates if it is inside the heat will be there plus maybe needed humidity.
@@user-lz2bn6eo1j He’s in the Uk (where I’m from originally). I know what you mean but winters there are far from dry and never cold enough to lower humidity like it does here (for example).
that's probably why they mentioned pumping steam through the sand, I would guess that the water/steam stays somewhat pressurized in a closed loop, negating the problems of evaporation (it can be condensed at some other point and the latent heat recuperated through a heat exchanged or something, heat pump style)
I love it!!!! How about a wood burning stove with a back boiler that heats your radiators (will need a metal expansion tank and pump, no biggie). And the stick a flat plate heat exchanger in the loop so you can also switch your heating on using your combi boiler.
Also stick a radiator on said loop in a metal cupboard with a extraction fan on top, to act as a drying rack!, to dry clothes and towels ect!!!!
These are some of the amazing ideas I come up with and my adhd don’t ever let me complete!!!
This guy randomly appeared.on my fyp and love the content already, deffo subbing. Also when he said "what I really needed to do was have a much larger volume of water, so I bought a 90 litre galvanised bin" made me laugh 😂😂
Man, really enlightening video...right up my street! i too love my log burning stove! and you are 100% correct, they hate things they cant tax!
You sir, are a legend!
An absolute savage with your sponsored products, which already made me want the phone.
You dont give a rubber duck but, at the same time you are extremely informative and give some real food for thought!
Thank you for your content!
to me you are now aka: De Lisle - De Savage!
Cant get enough!
Thank you so much. That's very kind. Hopefully lots more like this to come. Cheers J
Radiator fins on the exhaust pipe (where it runs inside the tunnel/housing) will create more heat transfer to the air.
How would you suggest making/fitting them to the exhaust to get maximum heat conductivity? Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Brazing or soldering would work well. They could either be made as discs (donuts) and slid on from one end, or as half-donuts so they can be slid on across the pipe. The final effect would look like the cooling fins on a Nambu type 99 machine gun, but maybe not so close together.
If they are a close fit, they don't even need the soldering - just be tight enough to be in contact with the tube. If slid on slightly loose, then you could put a small kink in each disc so it deforms and grips the tube.
Jubilee clips and thermal paste or thermal pads would be a good start.
Great idea, perhaps 1 or more radiant fin tube copper hydronic piping, with condensate recovery. Obviously fin tube diameter would need to be sized to meet exhaust requirements. An industrial SS fin tube would be ideal. Nice job editing btw. Political bent A+
next time at the heating supply store, look at a hot water baseboard radiator.. similar idea... exhaust gas is hot, that heat radiates to the room via fins that surround it.... as the temp goes down in the exhaust from this radiation, problems may arise in the efficiency of getting the poisenous gasses to flow to the outside.... buildup in the pipe might be an issue.
Just sposing, I don't know, I am a locksmith, not an HVAC Tech ! Maybe ASK an expert...... that would actually make a good video #3, and fill your bank at the same time.... kaching plus entertainment! Can not throw a rock at that!
Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share your knowledge with us. Greetings from Croatia.
Thank you. Cheers J
superb!!
Very clear and concise information offered with a tad of humour and honesty.
What’s not to like in this messed up world right now.
I too have a log burner in my home helping my horrific ASHP heating system that costs a fortune to run and a diesel heater in my garage, love it.
Thank you so much. I'm glad you liked it. I've certainly got more like this to bring. Cheers J
Try adding larger bore lengths of pipe to the exhaust, only growing in size as you go a long the length. This will slow down the exhaust gas and give it more surface area to transfer the heat better. You can also use clean edged stuff to make the flow more laminar and help exhaust condensation flow out.
I was hoping you were going to turn the oil drum into a sand battery. Ya big tease...
Definitely looking forward to a video on used cooking oil filtering as I'm doing that myself. Used coffee grounds and coffee filters are my current secret sauce (along with sand).
Thank you. I was tempted to do that but I ran out of time for this one. Maybe for a future video. Cheers J
The one issue with this is that you GREATLY reduce the amount of exhaust gasses that come into contact with the side walls of the exhaust gas exponentially as you make the pipe wider. That actually reduced the amount of thermal transfer you get.
Sand battery on the hot air output (not the exhaust) is a shout, just a case of working out what bore to make the coil through the sand to avoid excess back pressure.
@@Jonathan_Doe_ a sand battery on the output side would completely negate the point of him using a decent heater. He mentioned in the video that he has a wood heater, but he uses the diesel heater to heat up his shop quickly and have it warm when he gets out there . There .
If you added a thermal battery to the outlet side that would increase the amount of time that it takes to heat up the shop in the morning.
Josh, only recently found and subscribed to your channel and as a retired engineer, I love it. ADDITIONALLY !! My three brothers (between them) have 7 sons and 3 daughters and all are being taught independence and self sufficiency. I have recommended your channel to them for obvious reasons but also due to the fact that you seem to be one of the very few on TH-cam that can complete a pod cast or for that matter even a sentence without having to insert an expletive. Thanks for all the useful information and a vocabulary that doesn’t sound like a “hood rat”.
Thank you so much. You'll like my next video coming up. I'm going off grid using wood to generate electricity. Cheers J
Great video! I heat the whole farm on wood. Hot water and central heating. 2 wood burners with a back boiler and a 3rd without a boiler. More often than not 1 burner going is enough as it’s connected to the rads.
Your video was the first one I’ve seen with these types of heater. Shame they don’t make a bigger one for large sheds.
I’ve seen people connect these to their houses but it must only be enough to heat one room and not the whole house!?
Loved your video. I stumbled a crossed it somehow, but it great to see someone using what I consider basic ingenuity to save money and expose the corruption of big industry at the same time. I'm looking forward to see many more of your experiments
Thank you lots more like that coming soon. Cheers J
Sand battery benefits come from the ability to be heated up to hundreds of degrees of C without building up pressure or boiling. High temperature difference from the source to the storage -> high heat flow -> effective heat transfer from high temperature storage. I think the system designed in Finland uses cheap hours of electric grid to "fill up", then provides hot water from the heat storage - no idea what kind of heat exchanger they have to avoid overheating the water.
I think the most efficient way of getting heat out of the exhaust would be to essentially submerge the tube in a water or antifreeze bath and then have a pump running to circulate the liquid through a radiator and then a fan to disperse the heat.
Been running on these heaters for 30 plus years in trucks. We call them night heaters. Great idea plus great vid.
lol I think this is the best add for a tough phone I have ever seen 😂
Completely agree about using wood burners, I've lived in boats, benders & on the road in various motors, always had a burner. However, you do need to be near a wood, getting enough wood for a day takes a lot of time & energy. Most folk however buy the stuff, & it ain't cheap, about £100+ for a "ton" bag. There are ways top get cheap wood, again, it takes time. Thanks for this video & all your time & effort.
Your right. Cheap generally means a lot of work and convenience means expensive because some one puts in the work for you. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Aye, but as you say if your shifting for yourself you have more autonomy.
Klaus Schwab just put a prize on your head 😂😂😂😂
Thanks for a Great video 🙏🏻
you made my day with your comments at the end. many thanks for this Yt. 👍
Thank you. Cheers J
You put your thoughts and opinions out there SO WELL. Thank you from across the pond. (They don't like things they can't tax! 🥴 LOVE IT! 👍
The Ulephone is out of stock on Amazon UK... 😮💨which is a pity as I would buy one right now!
Love the content... I found your channel whilst researching diesel heaters for my boat.
I'll check with them on Monday. They should re stock soon. Cheers J
The sand bank is a cracking idea. But only beneficial in an area that is thermally efficient
Any gains from the sand bank are lost due to heat leaking out from other areas ( main door )
Great content 👍
Exactly which is why it's not a great option for me. I do need to insulate those doors if anything. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisleGet a sectional,overhead door.
Check out Haas,probably not available but find something comparable.
R value is rated at 14 for a thickness of 1 3/4".
Weather seal goes all around the outside.
Been doing garage doors for 23 years.
I just come across your channel & it is funny to me that you have put so much time & effort into heating.
I live in the far north of Western Australia, in a very hot environment & the very last thing that I ever think about is heating anything.
Although, I do often think about how to cool things down.
That'll be a project for me to tackle. Cheap cooling. Cheers J
First time viewing this channel. Mate, you crack me up!!! Liked & subscribed!!!
Just a side note. The sand battery would help maintain a longer heating period which should require less time overall to reach a better working temp on the next startup. Also the sand looked wet ! Dry sand is better which would be achieved with longer run times as the continued heat slowly removes all the moisture. The test should have really been over a couple of weeks and used sand that had been sieved / graded. As for using a radiator (yes that again LOL) The same thing but using a closed loop and small 12 volt pump to circulate the water. Water head should be taken into account based on the head flow of any pump. As an avid "upcycler" myself I use the exhaust from the house ran through a 6 inch sewer pipe just 2 foot under the ground across to my garage. Currently don't filter that air as there are enough air leaks to remove almost all the harmful effects to an acceptable level. Here in Canada I often see as low as minus 40 on some days in winter which had made the garage unusable. Now I have enough heat to be able to use it most days for a period of time. It also helps prevent such as latex paints from going off due to extreme cold. Yes I need to improve it so this vid gave me some more ideas.
Thanks for the great video! When talking about percentages of heat captured, you have to be careful when using non absolute units of temperature, such as °C and °F. Direct percentage calculations don't actually make sense for these units, and you will get different results for °C and °F, since the scales have different zero points. For example, (198°C - 56°C)/198°C = 72%, but (388.4°F-132.8°F)/388.4°F = 66%. If you want to divide by an absolute temperature, you need to use the Kelvin scale to get the absolute percentage of energy captured, but this is not exactly useful either, since a 100% efficiency would mean that you are able to cool the exhaust down to absolute zero (requires a heat pump, and of course one with that kind of efficiency does not exist). With Celsius and Fahrenheit scales, however, you can still talk about and divide by differences in temperatures, so a more useful notion might be to take a target temperature for the room, and set that as the reference for the optimal 100% efficiency exhaust temperature, as this is the best efficiency you can achieve without heat pumps. Take, say, 20°C = 68°F as the target. Now we get (198°C - 56°C)/(198°C - 20°C) = 80%, and as a sanity check, (388.4°F-132.8°F)/(388.4°F - 68°F) = 80%.
Here it's also good to note, that temperature is not the same as heat energy. The rate of heat energy given out by a surface at temperature T_1 in a room at temperature T_2 is proportional to the surface area of the surface as well as the temperature difference T_1 - T_2. Since this is a direct proportionality with respect to temperature, you can use the temperature in many proportionality (percentage) calculations, but need to be a bit careful. Also the amount of heat energy stored in a substance is directly proportional to the temperature of the substance, meaning that with the sand battery, when it is initially warming up, it does not give out as much heat (power) as the air one, but once its temperature has settled (no longer rising), the amount of energy stored in the sand is constant, and it is giving out heat at the same rate it's pulling it from the exhaust. The surface temperature of the sand battery will be much lower than that of the exhaust pipe, since the surface area is much larger. I think your method of comparing the difference of exhaust temperatures at the beginning and in the end of the pipe is maybe more useful than comparing the temperatures of the radiator vs the pipe vs the air blown by the computer fan (and seems you thought the same).
my captain my captain
What he said.
i very Very VERY much appreciate how you do a video AND provide a link below where to get what your using so I'm not stuck searching fore hours only to give up searching of everything your using fore your video. very informative and appreciated!
Excellent video.. first one I've watched and found it very enjoyable and informative, definitely earned a sub in my opinion, hope to watch a lot more from you.. all the best Joshua. Peace.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
Joshua, your a good man, awake and very smart, the UK needs to sort their issues out and put their very own people 1st, we need more trees, and more sustainable ventures, I wonder where that man is who ran his motor on water. Love watching your videos, Fazz from Midlands UK 🇬🇧
Thank you, you're very kind. When corporate interest mixes with the government we have problems unfortunately. I'm not right about everything but it's good to debate and question these things rather than accept what is put in front of us. I get skeptical when there are rules to stop hard working people from improving their lives and corporations seem to have the monopoly. Cheers J
Agree with your assessment on wood fired power stations, Drax is an obscenity.
On the sand battery, your sand appeared a bit damp. This would reduce its heat insulating properties. Probably not an issue with your set up but something to bear in mind.
it would dry out fast when first in use
Subscribed... You're an interesting man with a lot of valuable information. Thanks for the video and I'll look for you in the next one and the many that you've already made.
Thank you so much. Lots and lots to come. Cheers J