Diesel heater upgade 200% more efficient
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ย. 2024
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Ive been doing this for 3 years with an old steam radiator, have many videos about it here on YT. It works fantastic, no condensation problems as the armchair quarterbacks and internet experts always bring up. I have over 1000 hours of use with no issues, you want the exhaust from the heater to go in on the bottom of the radiator, exhaust out the top port which allows convection and hot air rising to remove condensation. The large internal volume of the steam radiator prevents backpressure so the combustion fan doesnt work too hard like it would with a long exhaust run, the hot air convection from the heater exhaust coming in from the bottom and exiting out the top (in my system) propels the exhaust out without putting undue work on the heaters fan, it also allows the stored heat in the thermal mass to continue to remove moisture even when the heater is off.
how much diesel does it burn per hour ?
Good read, I havent installed mine yet. I did read the exhaust MUST be down. I like reading someone who has actualy done this
Interesting - I have a heat exchanger to rig up to my Webasto exhaust that will share a coolant loop with the radiator circuit. Trying to get the pipe as short as possible before entering a 3inch full exhaust system - for the same reasons as you've explained.
@dancarter482 That's awesome, I remember seeing a commercially produced heat exchanger unit specifically made for diesel heaters on *David McLuckie* YT channel, as well as DIY versions using EGR heat exchangers or coils of copper etcetera...very interesting indeed. The unit that comes to mind was this fella who built the most amazing converted army truck RV-he uses both a woodstove and a diesel heater to warm his hot water tank as well as the coolant loop for the diesel engine, its quite a slick setup:
th-cam.com/video/y8vKhf1p1Lg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mfY0eX63LbbP1oRP
How does condensation not end up sitting in bottom of radiator? Or are you saying the heat vaporizes it and pushes it out with the exhaust? Seems like the down draft shown here would simply allow the moisture that's created to flow out with the exhaust at the bottom. Or are you saying the condensation that is created simply does not create any problems?
if anyone wants a cheap super simple way to extract heat from the exhaust, just buy a pack of scotch bright stainless steel scrubbers. You can expand them from the middle and slip them onto the exhaust pipe. They have a ton of surface area and conduct heat from the pipe really well. they work pretty well already by passive heating, but you can add a fan to help a little. You can buy a 16 pack for $10. Thats all you need.
Nice idea
I have to say that this is one of the best ideas I have seen on TH-cam. Of course condensation will form in the rad, but being cast iron and the exhaust low, it will drip out the bottom. Those heaters burn so efficiently that you won't have to worry about soot collecting in the rad. To test for this possibility, when it's new, record the temperature drop from top of rad to the bottom. After running it for months, or years, keep testing the temperature difference. If soot is forming on the inside of the rad, the temperature difference will become less. The exhaust temperature, at the floor will increase. The soot will act as an insulation. I can't see that happening though because of the burn efficiency. I only thing I would do differently is a more positive, sealed connection between the iron pipe and the heaters' flex line. Easy fix. As for the haters in the comment section, these people are shocking ignorant to basic science. You can tell they have done nothing in life. Nice job. It has given me some ideas.👍
I totally agree with @daveunderwood6498. The only comment I would make, and I'm being picky , are the 90 degree elbows but they do save space and that's the only a minor restriction .
Many people who watch this video are of the opinion in their comments that heat rises upwards, which is physically correct, but cold falls downwards, which also creates a downward suction in the radiator. That's why the entrance is always at the top and the cold that occurs when it cools down doesn't have to fight against the rising heat.
On a car radiator the hot water inlet is at the top and on a household radiator the inlet is always at the top to achieve optimal heat exchange.
It is also correct that you should not make the exhaust pipe too long, otherwise the resulting flow resistance will be too high, but given the flow cross section and the length of the components installed here, this shouldn't really have an impact. Since the difference in height between the exhaust gas outlet and the radiator inlet is approximately 45 cm or 18", there is virtually no back pressure. An exhaust silencer would generate more back pressure. And with an exhaust gas temperature of over 150 degrees Celsius, there is guaranteed to be no condensation in the pipe On the contrary, it will evaporate and condense again in the radiator where this condensate can then drain downwards. It is absolutely likely that deposits will accumulate somewhere in the system, but the solution to this is regular maintenance and cleaning.
Every boiler, fireplace and chimney must be cleaned regularly, even Chinese diesel heaters are not maintenance-free forever.
I like your design and am planning something similar...after seeing a bunch of Tubbers designs I think an oil or car radiator would be most efficient but I worry about corrosion. My idea is to run the exhaust thru a honda or toyota radiator and have the fan cycled with a fan relay in the heater, but i wonder how long it will last w/o antifreeze. That one your using is designed to run water through isn't it? an oil radiator might not last with water going through it either.
@@autojohn-pu1vf how about radiator that just all pipe pipe connectors the the think stuff like in this video
@@dh2032 I"ve seen some fellers on the Tube do that but it looks like a hassle... leaning towards getting salvage yard rad/fan and hanging a CO detector on it , with frequent inspections.
pipes are more expensive now than a cast radiator for 50 bucks
People think that but it's simpler than the rise and fall. Hot always moved towards cold. The thermodynamics of thermal energy is straight forward with that
Very interesting video. And a real bonus for us viewers. No annoying, irritating, loud background music. except for a little at the end of the video. 👍
Hello from Windsor NS! That idea is exactly something I was thinking about, now you aren't wasting all of that heat!
Brilliant, this is way better than what I had planned because that cast iron rad will also act as a thermal mass, which will continue to keep things warm a little longer, even after the heater shuts off.
Make sure you can drain the radiator because the exhaust is humid and going through the rad it will condensate the water in it, unless the output is right at the bottom. . Place a few computer fans blowing against the rad to dissipate some of that heat into the room. Also you should be getting fresh air from outside because you are using the air in the shop and exhaust is pushing that air out so to compensate for the air going out, it will draft into the shed from all the cracks
I have my heater exhaust hooked up to a 40 plate flat plate heat exchanger connected to my boats hot water tank. The heater heats my boat, the exhaust heats the water. It works amazing.
It heats the 9 gallon tank from 70F to 130F in under 90 minutes. As long as the water is above 70 I I’ve no issues with condensation or soot.
I should mention the water thermo siphons through the exchanger, meaning the water is constantly at 180 approximately. I also remove the exchanger often to make sure it’s clean and remove any condensation.
I love your idea.
Thanks for sharing.
I am looking for a unit to heat my sailboat and then in winter, transfer the setup to my truck and also pre warm the engine, and you just solved the problem.
I am a heating tech and have access to many different stainless steel heat exchangers.
You made it all come together, buddy.
Thanks
I'm so glad you did this. I was planning the same set-up with a heater I just purchased and have a radiator already. Thank you for proving concept.
Much love
better go for a stainless steel pipe with slightly larger inner diameter as your exhaust hose and root the exhaust gas through that. I use a 2.6m long pipe that simply goes through the room and then exits with a slight downward slope. The pipe then just goes through the wall. The end of the pipe is at around 30°C so i get the same efficiency with much less effort and dont even have corrosion problems. I put a small bucked that collects the condensate under the exit of the pipe outside of the building so the sulfur does not go into the environment. The whole thing cost me around 30 bucks.
Great idea! Since the unit and the exhaust path is inside, please make sure to have a small space carbon monoxide detector (they are made for inside of small spaces like airplanes and semi trucks and are more sensitive) inside the shop/shed. I agree with the comment that the outside exhaust outlet should be extended past the building side (instead of just down under the shed floor - ideally up past the roof peak). Also, keep an eye on the temp of the pipe going through the floor to ensure the mineral wool is taking any residual heat before it reaches the flooring wood (thinking of a chimney wall/ceiling collar and how it separates the combustible surfaces from the heat of the exhaust pipe). Nicely done!
You do not understand why monoxide is creating. Stop giving idiotic advice if you don't understand the rules.
@@jacekolejniczak8726 Anywhere you have a union or join in a combustion exhaust run indoors, you want a CO detector. You also don't want to exhaust any combustion equipment simply down through the floor unless it continues outward well past the building.
So he sounds a lot smarter than you do, especially since he's given good advice and all you've done is make a dick of yourself without providing any input or backing up your comment at all.
For this to work, long term, you need to have the exhaust pipe from the diesel heater well above the radiator, so the condensation will flow down and out, through the radiator, as vapor. The way you have it set up, currently, the heater will eventually clog.
I was going to write the same remark. All the condensation will stay in the exhaustpipe the way it was set up.
Maybe fit the exhaust to the bottom and do the pipe on top through the floor?
The temperature in the flex pipe going from the heater upwards to the radiator is so high that you don't get condensation there. Maybe a few drops at startup but it evaporates as soon as it gets up to working temp. I have the flex pipe going upwards in my boat and have had no issues in the five years I've used it.
WRONG ....There is no condensation once the heater is up to temp (a couple mins) and any condensation that collects in the radiator will drain out. By your logic every vertical exhaust on every diesel engine ever would plug up.
Just to agree with the others, you can't have an exhaust pipe going up the way. It'll just fill up with vapour and condensation It must constantly go downhill. for this to work long term. If you look at the silencer. even that has a hole in the bottom to get rid of vapour for that very reason. You will need to raise the heater. or to have a Lower. Radiator. In principle, it should work OK then. The other option. is to use. a part from a car. I think they call it EcG. It allows you to pass the exhaust through. a water chamber. and then send the water through the radiator. That could work on your existing radiator so long as you have the exhaust at floor level. as it enters its heat exchanger. You would just need a small expansion chain. literally tiny. nothing bigger. than the size. on a car. Radiator top up. and it won't even need to be under a pressure. So long as it's at the right height.
@@chrisharrell2449 You really don't have a clue what you're talking about do you.
Thank you for making this. I’ve always thought the exhaust made so much waste heat in diesel heaters. Rv heaters etc. Awesome to see you come up with a way to harvest it.
Did the same thing, works fine, as long as you reduce the amount of fuel, with the default settings, the heater is running rich because off, the reduced exhaust air flow, if you keep on running it with default settings, soot will build up and clog your heater.
Nice idea to recoup the heat lost by the exhaust, but I would have turned the unit around to have the heat vent also blowing through the radiator. This would have a two fold benefit: 1. it would help to heat up the thermal mass of the cast iron radiator quicker, and 2. Once up to operating temperature the hot air passing through the fins of the now heated radiator would distribute the heat from the radiator better. On a side note, I would definitely add a 90° elbow to that exhaust under the shop and run it out from the perimeter of the shop (the rockwool may help where you drilled the hole, but there may be a couple seams on the underside to let fumes back up into the shop).
Not really. Heat inside is what matters. If you transfer heat to other objects changes nothing .....unless it increase heat radiated to the outside, which it might. Capturing exhaust heat helps but dumping heat into a cast iron heat exchanger instead of aluminum is less efficient but better than just dumping it.
When I first installed my diesel heater in my caravan, I connected the exhaust directly to a 3 meter length and steel 1.5" water pipe, then out through the floor, the water pipe 3" above the floor is 190° and is awesome for keeping that heat inside instead of heating up the atmosphere lol, I could have made it go around the room further.
This is the best idea for a heat exchanger I've seen👍
Now that's a heat exchanger ,,,,,,,,,tell Trudea
On a Russian site a man did this and did a lot of calculations based on the actual heat values - he concluded the heater itself produced just over 4kw on high and his radiator added a further 1.5 kw making a total of a little over 5.5kw - in another of his posts, he concluded that the 5 and 8kw heaters were in most cases the same!
If your exhaust temp is lower than 140° it will condensate which is acidic which WILL rust that radiator out faster than you think. If the rad was stainless you wouldn’t have that problem. This is exactly the reason high efficient furnaces / boilers/ hot water heaters cannot use regular tin exhaust vents, they have to be able to resist the acid which is present in consensate. Master plumber/gasfitter 25yrs
Great idea. Good thinking on putting inlet at top so that condensables can drain out the bottom.
All that heat does come.from the exhaust, and this looks bloody genius 👌
Got one in last year's lobster boat. And in that -40 it kept the snow and ice off the wheelhouse off the #CrissyG boat
6:30 😅
Dumb question of the day
Why knot plumb the exhaust in to the bottom as it would heat the rad up more quickly??
15:00 the little red one we hat, has the option to be set with a timer of when to atuo start
because if it cools down the condensat falls down and would fill the heater and it would be againt the flow => my video comment at the top
@dsfarmns2823 OK, that makes good sense, didn't really think about the condensation
Thank you for sharing your awesome exhaust heat capture solution. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
could you use a radiator for a car with a fan behind it blowing the heat around the room ? or would it get too hot and melt the soldier joints?
I would recommend putting a CO alarm that gives you actual CO read out.
Ive had mine running in my garage for five years now, I think I'll try this when I reorganize later this year. the other benefit would be to hold the heat when the heater turns off, that much iron should remain hot for a while.
Great idea! I would have the exhaust coming into the bottom of the radiator as this would allow the moisture from the engine to rise out the top as steam.
thanks, that's a great idea, and what makes it even better is I have a small cast iron radiator sitting unused in the basement. I am quite satisfied with my little diesel heater, but I have been thinking of a way to recover the heat lost through the exhaust because my shop is quite a bit too large for the poor heater (20ftx30ft) and I live in a cold climate.
That's an ingenious idea! I've got another idea for you that might also increase efficiency. Make a shroud for the back of the radiator and then hook the heated air hose to that so the already heated air is used to make a forced air setup for the radiator as well
concur
something else to consider is the intake air to the combustion chamber, take it from outside. Else you consume the hot air from inside the building and cold air will leak in from outside.😇
That was a great idea and good way to upcycle an old radiator!!
Nicely done too!
super idea... good for you
perfect application for the old water heater, match made in heaven.
after years the acidic condensate from the exhaust could rust a hole through it. great project but for long term use precautions need to be made.
Good to see someone else in NS doing stuff like this besides me. LOL Been using these CDH for a while. You will have issues with carbon build up eventually and condensation building up with the exhaust angled upward like that. Everything on the exhaust should be on a downward slope to prevent condensation build up and giving it a path to drain. Also move the combustion air intake outside of the space, when it does foul up it and it will at some point it will dump all the exhaust gases back through the intake manifold into your room because the intake and exhaust share the same combustion space. CO monitors are a must. Stay safe and good luck.
Intake should be outside, it really pulls air. The way he has it pulls air in through every crack in the building....
Yes the combustion air intake should always be outside. When inside they will pull cold air in from the outside through every crack and crevice it can because of negative pressure. I have seen the result first hand from my own mistakes and experiments over time.
I hate how much heat goes out the exhaust of these heat exchanger types. This is an amazing idea. Thank you
Because your air intake pipe is inside the house, it will create negative pressure and suck in cold air from outside. The air intake pipe should be placed outdoors.
Basically you are correct but since the heater is installed in a small room it gives me a little fresh air circulation via the room ventilation from outside. Every installed wood stove does the same thing, it burns the oxygen in the room and therefore requires air supply from outside so that you don't suffocate. I thus achieve a forced air exchange in the room in which it is installed.
Its my understanding that there is moisture in the exhaust so the radiator will fill with very acidic water
It will go out at the bottom pipe more or less, but yeah, this is a valid concern.
I’m also concerned about the build up of soot as the exhaust condenses on the interior walls of the radiator. Also he could put a fan directed at the radiator to pull more heat from it.
Please check the other Videos on our channel
i like how any condensation in your heat reclaiming exhaust just would continue safely out the floor no buildup❤
I think you'd be able to increase the efficiency by using outside air for the combustion air intake instead of indoor air. You're creating a negative pressure space, drawing cold in inside the building. Outside air will combust the fuel just as well and wont create a negative pressure. In the end you'll use much less fuel to heat the indoor air.
This is a really neat idea. Repurposing a radiator this way is super creative.
Great video...
Only thing now is to get rid of that annoying fuel pump and replace with a quiet version.
Nice idea - I may give that a shot. I think you definitely need some kind of drain for condensation, though. You are dropping the air temp down to well below condensation temp by the time it exits the radiator, so I am betting you will soon have the bottom of the radiator full of fairly acidic condensate, which will likely do some significant damage to the internals of the radiator in the short term if you don't have a way to drain it. The cast iron would last a century if you ran clean water through it, but letting acidic water sit in the bottom will do significant harm to it.
Even if the radiator cast iron holds out, you will eventually be dumping that acidic water out onto your cement slab. If you don't want to put in a drain, I would think about pouring in some thin epoxy like the stuff mean to repair pinholes in gas tanks, and flipping the radiator around until it is coated inside evenly. The epoxy may give you some extra time before the radiator bottom perforates.
Thanks for the great idea!
Problem you are going to have with this setup is condensation in the radiator. The condensate is very acidic so it will rust that radiator though in no time. You can get round that however by using a stainless steel radiator. Also you need to have the exhaust coming out of the heater going down into the radiator so there is no chance of condensate collecting in the tube. I have a similar setup myself except I packed the exhaust radiator in sand as thermal storage so I can turn off the heater and get several hours of residual heat.
That is incredibly efficient. I always thought the pumping the heat outside was extremely inefficient. That radiator almost makes it like using a mass rocket stove heater. I think if you put some ducting behind the radiator and ran a fan into the ducting it would heat the room even faster or at least keep all portions of the room the same temperature. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Brilliant & comments, what about using copper pipe which runs ( attached ) through aluminium square plates spaced close together, heat then could follow wherever the pipe ran, eventually through to outside of wall, - just a " maybe " idea : )
It is 25-35% more efficient, not 200%, but I can understand your excitement 😉. The exhaust of a diesel heater wastes 0.1 to 0.7kW of energy depending on the heat setting of the heater. The 5kW heater is actually a 3kW machine. You can pass the exhaust through a bucket of water and you get hot water.
I was thinking the same.
Im thinking about building a CH system with water ( as I already have with nat. gas ) and exactly as you said, run the exhaust trough the water for extra heating efficiency.
it was more like a 3.3kw now it is a 4kw machine
25-35% more heat is still a lot.
Yes the 4kW is being sold as 8kW 😂. Can't complain, better than 3.3kW! @@NightshiftCustom
@examplerkey there all rated at 5kw but they like to lie and say 8kw. pretty normal for anything from China and even then there really only about 4kw. But there is a newer model that is about 6kw rated at 8kw and has a bigger burn chamber with a 3.5" outlet but only a few company's are selling them. There is also a smaller 2kw model available
😊 👍 bonne idée de utilisé un encien radiateur en fonte comme échappement des gaz
A Russian post did some tests on this type of heater and found that the 5kw produces just over 3kw and adding a radiator on the exhaust added not quite 11/4 KW - he based his results on fuel used calorific value
Awesome idea! I’ve been wanting to try something like this. I’ve pondered using a 55 gallon steel drum with the inlet on top and outlet on the bottom
A meter of standard exhaust, always going down or sloped downwards, with a small fan blowing on it will yield room temp exhaust at the end with no carbon. Also have the intake on the inside air to limot the effect of having to heat the air too.
I made a recouperator for mine with a 3m coiled section of the same exhaust tubing. It's got a riser section coming out of the heater and coils downward to the outlet. No fan, purely convective. Exhaust temps at the recouperator outlet are around 40c and just as you're experiencing, no soot. I was surprised as I was expecting at least some soot. I get lots of condensate as evidenced by the large puddles the thing makes, but I'll take a puddle with the extra BTUs. Its a garage I'm heating. Puddles there won't hurt anything.
Should feed exhaust into bottom of the rad and out on the other side bottom. Heat rises. Rad would be heated way more evenly. Plug the top fitting. And no galvanized pipe in exhaust, too hot, zinc fumes released over time.
Other than that - well done.
the water build up needs to drain out the bottom
@@NightshiftCustom it also does not flow very well when frozen.
Thank You for sharing this with us I have been tossing a few ideas around but I like yours. Really enjoy your sense of humor also.
Neat idea, I'd definitely make sure the old repurposed radiator was leak proof first, and definitely get a CO monitor or two. Ideally get a CO monitor that has a relay to cut power to the heater.
Do NOT let it cut off power to the heater . . . . it may get overheated and destroy the motherboard, cut the power to the pump instead . . . . so the fan is still is working and cooling down the heater . .
And think about that the radiator may only make the heater 3-6% more efficient 😵not 200%
@@matzstrom3223Comparing the difference between the radiator input temperature to the output temperature I'd say all exhaust heat has been captured in the room which would definitely improve the heaters efficiency more than 3-6%.
@@pstoneking3418 No, he only measure IR in direction to the surface on the pipe/ radiator, it does NOT tell the temperature (energy transported) of the exhaust gases, you have to measure the gases when it exit the room.
One more problem is that he use air from inside of the room to feed the combustor. . . that same volume of air will get in from outside . . . . .
In a experiment video with a "China" heater, and when it runs in its most efficient set up, it leave 94- 96% of produced heat inside the room, that's includes the exhaust pipe radiation, it exist a test video.
I have not make any calculating's that can back up my "may become only . . . " statement, but i think you get the point,
It's NOT even close to 200% more efficient, but the claim may be 4-6% more efficient are for sure MUCH closer.
I'm going to use some flexible dryer duct and put it around an extended exhaust (I already have both) and run a small DC fan at the bottom of the heater where the exhaust starts and split it off before it goes outside. I should be able to nearly double my heat output from 1 heater depending on the CFM of the fan.
You need to add a drain valve to get rid of condensate building up in your radiator. Alternatively, use a more modern type (sheet metal) and tilt it so the condensate can exit via the exhaust.
Great idea! I love it! Great job using your head there!
Since you remove so much heat what about exhaust condensation in the radiator and since even after an hour it was showing a negative number could water build up and freeze close I would check outside to see if it is dripping. I am no expert but I would have thought there water some water in diesel that could condensate. Anyone please correct me if I am wrong.
You could also build a sand battery and run the exhaust through that to prvide a thermal mass that will carry on pushing out heat after the heater is turned off.
I was thinking the same thing, a sand battery could be done incorporating a built in copper tube wound heat exchanger for hot water as well.
White PTFE tape is meant for non-corrosive liquid and gasses, the Blue PTFE os for corrosive gases and liquids. I'd take it apart and use the Blue before the White tape degrades and leaks gasses into your space... Also, heat rises, so heating should be at floor level, whereas cold sinks, thus AC should be at ceiling level. ☺☺
Good job. Probably the only thing Id alter would be adding a 90 and extending the exhaust out from under the shed. I was very surprised by the lack if heat coming from the bottom of the radiator. I know heat rises but wow.
That's a brilliant idea, but a few suggestions:
Have the exhaust enter from the bottom of the radiator and exit from the top.
Also the exhaust should enter on one side and exit from the other.
If the exhaust gets too restricted incomplete combustion will occur.
No. If the exhaust enters from the bottom, there is no way to get rid of condensation. Condensation occurs when the exhaust drops below 100C. There is a reason the exhaust temp from the heater is above waters boiling point. Why enter one side and exit the other? He already showed that he is extracting all the heat from the exhaust, so much that his exhaust Temps are below zero, causing the condensation to freeze in the radiator.
@@ColCurtis Physics
Still a closed system.
If what you stated was true, eventually the exhaust would become blocked from the freezing condensate, filling the room with exhaust gases and killing everyone inside.
Ever see an air compressor tank condensate valve? That is the ONLY proper way to drain the system. Every other way relies on pressure. The freezing readings were from the outside of the pipe, where the outside air was flowing into the area and over the outside surface of the pipe not from the exhaust gas exiting the pipe.
@@stans5270 if he keeps the bottom exhaust pipe temp above freezing the condensation will run out the bottom exhaust pipe. It is not a closed system if the bottom pipe is open. I would Insulate the bottom pipe to keep it room temp.
Just a thought when your showing videos with temperatures you may want to toggle your temp monitor between C and F to show both
Great Idea! One point to consider. By replacing the galvanized pipe at the bottom with a plastic pipe and fitting, if possible, would reduce the heat loss at the base of the radiator. May or may not be worth the trouble, but that is what came to mind. Thanks for the video!
Actually there's no point in doing that. That length of uninsulated pipe just adds a tiny bit to the surface area of the radiator.
@@hansmuller1625 It is a thermal bridge. Cold wind will cool the pipe, and the pipe will pull cold from the cooled end from the outside to the inside. Steel is a 300 times better conductor than wood. But this setup is probably not an optimized solution anyway.
You need to drill and tap a small 1/4" fitting into the lowest point of the radiator to drain the acidic condensate out otherwise it'll sit in there and eat away at the steel and eventually leak out through the rust holes it'll make. The 1/4" brass fitting can have a drain line that can be run outside so that condensate build up will drain on it's own.
or install it sloped
Exhaust should exit burner on a downward angle as condensation can block the pipe.
D&S Farms NS you sir are a Genius....Peace
I think the idea is brilliant BUT I feel you're Heater unit must be located higher to allow the condensation to flow down & out of the radiator outside,
The way it is at the moment your creating a U loop with no way for the condensation to run away .
At this point is no condensation never please watch the update video
If the exhaust temp is above the boiling point of water, no condensation can occur. However, he will get condensation inside the radiator, and it will freeze possibly plugging the exhaust if the output temp is below zero. There is a reason the heater is designed to have exhaust Temps above 100 C
Hello Sir,
When you put some Enflon tape in a cigarette and smoke it completely up. Then you will get lungcancer. So dangerous is burnt Enflon tape.
Hennep would be a better choice in this case. And remove the hennep thas has no use.
I made something alike. But i used a bit more modern radiator that has 3/4 inch. I used a PccP version. A plate/convector/convector/plate radiator. Used 22 mm pipe for connection and the heat goes in at the same time in the top and the bottom at the same side and leaves on the other side above.
I made 4 x 3.5 inch computer fans and placed them at the underside of the radiator facing upwards. Instead of using 12 volt connected them with 5 volt. That way they turn slower but with less noice. As soon as the radiator at the bottom is 30 degrees Celsius the fans start to turn. Blowing forced air through the inside of the radiator. That way the radiator gives way more heat of in the room. A guess , something like 3 to 4 Kw extra of free heat. The fans run a long time on good powerbank.
Be aware that the exhaust gasses have a lot of water trapped in it. Probably in 3 years the radiator is destroyed.
It’s nuts, but I went to my local commercial plumbing place (in AB) to grab some fittings, and the STAINLESS STEEL ones were waaaaaay cheaper than the normally cheap cast stuff! 😳
Basically 100% efficient...good on you lad...I'm with the other guy on that flue condensate though..
Now have the blowing end of the heater blowing across the radiator to pick up that heat and also move the air inlet to the first part of the radiator at the hottest part so it is picking up the hot air will make the heated air hotter. If you understand what I am saying. Sort of a loop system making it help itself heat better.
I hope you have a carbon monoxide detector. in your shop. the fumes will still come up through the floor piping it down like that. But it does look like a good way to get some more heat out of it.
Great idea, but it would definitely invest in a carbon dioxide meter. Also, to be honest i would put another elbow fitting on the underside of the shed and ad some pipe to led the fumes away from the shed.
I run mine through a 3meter flex exostpipe attached to a hanging piece or aluminum flashing and right before it gose out side i have it raped to the meter intake to warm the incoming air. It steams really good outdoors.
Nice and effective idea.
But do not let you fool with IR measurements. Shiny metals refelct either the room temperature or your own body temperature. If you want to measure correctly you need to paint the shiny metal in black or stick black electrical tape to the measurement location.
I proved this fact with my IR Camera. If you put a shiny aluminium sheet on the pavement at a sunny summer day, it will get very hot. Nevertheless it will refelct the very cool sky temperature only. And exactly that you will measure. If you approach your face above the sheet you will measure partly your skin temperature. In the camera you will see the outline of your head.
A concern I would have is the any carbon monoxide in the exhaust would tend to hang around in low spots. With hot exhaust the CO would tend to disperse better. Stay safe!
hi...good idea! Better to have 45' connections between hoses. Also connect exaust output in the right bottom side of radiator. So you'll improve more exchange
Put sheet metal behind the radiator to radiate the heat outwards instead of heating the wall.
Excellent idea you have there. I'll bet it would work in the garage.
How long does the fuel last?
Thanks for posting, i have an old radiator that i can put to use now
Great Build ! I just bought a Vevor heater to mount in my off grid camper unit :) I may buy another for my mill shed.
Try hooking the exhaust to a flat plate heat exchanger or shell and tube exchanger to heat your water in your camper.
I did with my boats hot water system and it has worked an entire season.
Could use a coil of any metallic tubing for the radiator and small fan to push air past it. Or the coil in a box and push output air from heater. Or the heat exchanger from a home furnace.
@D&S Farm NS
You present a very good video, but I want to ask a couple of questions. Will the radiator plug up with soot over a period of time? Does your system create too much back pressure for the heater? And now for a suggestion, wouldn’t you recover more heat by putting a fan pointed towards the radiator? Thanks a bunch and looking forward to an answer!
Great idea!! I can suggest you to improve the insulation of the exaust gas outlet or reduce the number of radiator elements to improve the heater draft.
Gases must be prevented from condensing inside the elements
Enjoyed the vid very much.As far as condensation; would pitching it at a slope help drain any water that may build up?Single pipe steam heat accomplishes that with slope, as well as refeed water into the boiler.
Great job good ideas everybody has improvements to make after you do something hindsight is always 2020 but thank you for the thoughts and the information
I was thinking about running the exhaust through a copper coil in a tank of water, but I think your idea is simpler unless you have a use for the hot water other than thermal mass.
That was cool! Could you have hooked the exhaust to the bottom of the radiator first and then run a longer pipe from the top of the radiator down and to the outside? The idea being to keep the exhaust moving in a downward direction, as others have discussed at length.
Yep
The idea to have the exhaust moving in a downward direction is also safety reason, if the chamber get flooded with fuel it should drain out by it self.
And if the exhaust pipe inside and the gases stays well above 60 C it will dry out the pipe but maybe not the radiator, even if outgoing gases from that stays well above 60 C.
Those laser thermometers measure an average temperature of a cone. The farther then gun is away, the larger the surface it averages. The red dot is just an aiming point
you should also route that combustion air intake to outside. you are creating negative pressure inside the place + burning and tossing out allready heated air.
How much fuel do you use in a day, gallons ?? Thanks
Groovy Baby Great Ideal 10-4
❤ I'd propose to turn the heat exchange sideways or flat. to allow the soot to flow out from the radiator coils and prevent long-term use blockage. thanks for your experiment ❤
Don't forget to put a house to the outside for the air intake
Wow, I would mount that loud thing outside.
Bought the exact same heater two weeks ago, $146. The owners manual is incomprehensible. I managed to get it going by just turning it on. Manual makes no mention of the 6 different heat output settings. If you have any problems and need technical support you have to exchange emails with someone in China. It does put out pretty good heat, and was cheap, but frustrating supporting info.
I would suggest adding a sheet of polished stainless steel behind the radiator and exhaust to help capture more of the radiant heat.
Good job. You are only using only the left half of your radiator. If you put the outlet to the right side you'll get more even heat from the radiator.
the 1st thing I did when I got my diesel-heater was to install an old radiator along with it. The exshausts gets hotter than the wearm air coming out and we do really need to take care of that.
The radiator got so hot the paint on it burnt. I sandblasted it and its been running perfect since. Exhausts are cold even after 2 hours running. After about a minute u cant touch the radiator near the inlet.
Im aslo running my own diesel fuel cutting down costs even more.
Use a carbon monoxide detector in the shop to safeguard you in case the exhaust starts to leak into the shop. The cooler your exhaust gas is the more vapor will condense into liquid. These liquids will build up in the radiator and will be somewhat corrosive. It would be better to have the outlet of the heater slightly above the radiator so no liquid would build up in the exhaust going into the radiator which could partially block the exhaust flow.
Jup like the other comments. A small drain on the lowest part of put the heater above the radiator. Condens will collect in the exhaust and will get pulled in the heater itself
nice to see your back making content