Hi Adam me and my dad have run night heaters for years in our garages. What we learned especially in cold weather is best to have it low mounted and also have the intake plumbed inside also so it is more efficient
And as stated above (plumbed inside) the heater should suck air inside. If you keep pumping in from the outside, you're effectively pumping out warm air. Circulating inside has to be the better idea.
More importantly. In this setup you could suck in exhaust fumes. There should at least be more distance between exhaust and inlet but ideally connect inlet to the garage as well.
Kinda missed a trick the intake is outside so you are heating outside air if your intake was from the garage then as it warms so does the input air so less heat needed to warm up the air, it’s a closed circuit so no fumes as burner air is separated
Not sure thats right; pretty sure that thermodynamic efficiency is better if the air (oxygen) is cooler (denser). Thats why ICEs are turbo charged/supercharged. Given that the heater will only be used when its cold "outside" , its actually better using the outside air.
@@dwaggys3322 its not for combustion the hot air from the from the room run over the heated fins, you are wright about engines colder denser air better combustion but its not the case here. its easier to heat warm air than frizzing temp air from outside.
@@freespeech3608 true, but using outside air and pumping it in will cause posative pressure in the living space and help prevent drafts around doors and windows, it's also not recirculating spent/stale air
Enjoyed your video. It was good to see the giblets of the machine. I liked the idea of the weatherproof metal box. Some comments, mainly repeating stuff from the comments below: - I can see why the hot air output was put high as you had an easier way into the garage via the soffit than coming in through the wall but the heat should be coming in low to give it some chance to heat something up in your garage before it all ends up in the roof space. - the input air to the heater should come in from the garage eg. from all the lovely warm air in your roof space as it will be more efficient to heat pre-heated air than the external cold air - you should have a fuel-filter between the fuel tank and the pump, especially as your fuel tank has its feed from the bottom of the tank which is where any crud from the fuel will settle - replacing the fuel line with a better quality fuel line is a good idea but the 5mm automotive fuel line is too big for the pump. It should be closer to the original ID of 2mm and be hard and not squishy like the original fuel line. The squishy fuel line allowed the manufacturer to have a simpler/cheaper connection as the line can be pushed on the fuel nipples. The hard 2mm ID can't be pushed on the fuel nipples but you can the use the 5mm automotive fuel line to create joiner pieces and attached everything using jubilee clips - it would be quieter if the fuel-pump was installed outside - it might be safer if the exhaust pipe that is inside the metal box was wrapped in some exhaust wrap - it is important to use a battery to run one these heaters as though you need 12V to start the machine and keep the machine running, more importantly, you need 12V to allow the machine to cool and shutdown properly. A 240V to 12V adapter wouldn't allow this cooling period if power was lost when the heater was running - it is important to bleed the fuel line to the pump before you start the system as these type of pumps are lubricated by the fuel they are pumping. The pumps are good at pumping but not so good at sucking and so rely on the gravity feed from the fuel tank to do most of the work. If there is air in the fuel line then the pump can spend many minutes trying to suck this air out of the line without any lubrication
Ive installed a few of these Adam and i have a few of tips. Power supply could be a leisure battery fitted out of the way and charged via a motorbike charger which are very small and easily hidden, this way you can just turn it on when you like without faffing about opening bonnets and then every few days turn the charger on for a bit, I have mine setup this way with all the cabling in conduit and the control panel and charger mounted on the wall. I would also put a grommet around the fuel pipe going into the box as the pipe can move as the pump pulsates and it wont take long to cut the pipe on the metal entry point to the box. Lastly check your insurance with regards to a diesel fuel setup running an appliance as it could cause headaches in the event of a claim. Nice job fitting it in the box, i use mine in winter but usually put it on for an hour before i head out as they take a while to warm the space. Keep the videos rolling.
I've fitted 100s of these and there's more than just the battery problem😂 this is the worst setup I've ever seen. I agree with you on the battery then use a ctek or optimate to charge it. The optimate are the only ones that don't freak out when you charge the battery while the heaters running, the cteks sometimes show failed battery and they ramp up and down too quickly so you get a fluctuating fan noise from the heater, they work great when the heater is off though. The best maintenance charger about for doing big boys batteries especially ones powering these heaters is optimate 6. Ctek quality has tanked recently tbh and if you need any bigger than optimate 6 then it's because you have a gigantic 12v marine battery the size of a car.
The heater drawers 40 watts continuously (3.5 to 4 amps) and 150 watts when the glow plug is heating. That’s well within the capacity of a motorcycle battery but 4amps is beyond an Optimate charger. I used a 200 watt 240V ac to 12V dc inverter. It cost £25 and runs efficiently at part load. A battery and charger would need a car charger and even that might struggle. It’s also likely to cook a bike battery when you forget to switch it off.
2 points on your installation ‼️ First warm air rises, so in any warm air heating system you want the heat blowing in low down. Secondly you don't want the intake drawing air from outside, in winter that air is going to be colder. You want the intake drawing air from inside, that way as the garage warms up your recirculating warmer air, rather than trying to heat up very cold air from outside. It'll run way more efficiently and warmer that way. Oh and another thing, china and japan are completely different countries. Japan makes some quality gear, think Nikon, Honda etc China on the other hand, products tend to be cheaper for a reason ie lower quality, poor build and lower quality control.
first two things I agree, or instal heater inside and only move outside exhaust pipe and same size intake air what exhaust pipe and instal heater lower close to floor, about quality so I have two of them in 4 years and no issue, fuel pump I have in flat position in both and no issue and again if you instal inside garage you save £70 plus work with box and also more heating will be inside because heater also giving heat from unit
I use mine with red diesel, which is cheaper (in my country) . You can also mix it with waste oil (60/40) without any smoke or smell. Those heaters are awesome....
'China is in Japan' made me wee! I've had a Chinese heater in my camper for 3 years and it's been faultless. The exhaust rotted after a winter so I fitted a Webasto pipe and silencer, exhaust is quieter too.
Due to recent financial and personal difficulties I’ve recently brought and lived in a static caravan for around 5 months and the first thing I installed was a diesel heater, cost £100 from eBay and I’d be lying if I didn’t say it wasn’t worth the money…. Great video as always Adam, keep up the good work bro 👌🏻
This is the most in depth video I've seen so far and it's pretty decent at explaining the history and use of these. I have one now that I put in a old military crate for mobility and i installed a quick disconnect so I can either use it in the car , with alligator clamps , or connect it to a 120v to 12v 10a wall adapter I got that's really simple
During start and warm up these heaters draw around 30-40 amps so that 8-12amp wire that you used is actually more of a fire hazard than the psu's that you said aree a bit scratchy. I've had mine connected to my cdh for over two years now without any issues at all. Just like any other electrical unit I tune it off and unplug it when it's not in use.
Yip, and the hose from the pump to the unit is absorbing its pulsing power probably more than the cheap stock stuff. Dude never read the bit about semi-rigid lines did he. Nor does he even realise when you heat from above you lose all the heat to the space above the ducting. Terrible fitment and I like the guy but offfft
Hi have one in camper and on it it takes the air to be heated from inside the van so it’s not heating outside air will you heating a large area it would be a good idea to do the same so as your garage heats up the heater will be more efficient
I got a bar in my garage so we use the heater quite a bit. This is a great installation but move the heat intake into the the heated area and the pump outside. Lower the tank so it's easier to fuel. Also, try setting it to temp instead of Hertz for a garage.
Great video Adam. I installed one of these in my garden shed years ago before I could fine any links on youtube. I worked it on the basis of running one on my boat. Best thing I ever did. I installed everything outside except the controller its been working a treat
i think the other comments are right, pipe the air inlet to inside the garage, my mate's used to pull damp into his garage, that's probably why hot air rises, so you should have the hot air piped in it low down i'll keep an ear out on newcastle rd, fingers crossed every time i hear a fire engine...
i use one of these to supplement the heating in my house i run it on kerosene, it runs cleaner than diesel and is also cheaper i also drilled an extra hole for the air intake so the return air was warm air from the house and not from the cold air outside
I've been using the 5kw in my kitchen we got new for £100 4 years ago. I have it outside in a small cupboard I made with the air pipe through the stone wall into the kitchen of our large stone and lime house. The downstairs has large double doors between the kitchen and livingroom, so the heater is a first heat on a morning u til the log burner reaches temp. It's fantastic. The second year we had it in 2021 we had temps of -21°c but we were toasty. Only issue I had was last week the fan failed but £20 fix.
Got one of these for my shed in October, great little heaters, much cheaper than leccy! The Chinese ones are based on the patent of the original German design, the patent ran out so it's a legal copy. They are easy to disassemble, repair and reassemble.
They just aren't what they claim. They market themselves as much stronger than what they are. The 5,000 watt one is closer to 2,000 tops. Also it's only legal NOW they were making these before the patent ran out.
@@SilvaDreams you're confused mate. The genuine ebers this exact one is based of does around 4.6kWh if fitted properly. This cheap copy does around 4.1kWh can be pushed to about 4.4 if you do rigid fuel lines and set them so the fan perimiters goes up to 4800 ideally 5000rpm and you set the HZ perimeters to- Min1.6 and Max 5.5hz Now if you've got a good one plumbed in right and a decent plug it will run no problem at these "higher than manufacturer" setting, if you have a badly made one or its not plumbed in correct you won't ever get it running good at the maximum perimiters which on the cheap ones are in the hidden menu. To suggest these put out 2kWh is utterly ridiculous as they beat two claimed 2500w fan heaters pal. Even they lie the 2500w electric fan heaters are 2.1kWh a really good one 2.2kWh. What do I know though I've only fitted about 150 of these and Every other type of heating systems in boats.. that go to the north sea.. in freezing conditions. 2kw 😂 mate the smaller 2Kw cheapo versions of these put out about 1.7kWh they aint much behind the real ones either.
Hmmm.... Mr. Big has done his homework! As such, these heaters have been in use since the late 1930's. I remember seeing these heaters installed in military vehicles as far back as the 1960's. I remember them in England and Germany as most NATO countries installed in buses and trucks and tanks. The Navy had them installed on most ships. One of the most humorous observations is when in Vietnam, they were fitted at the factory and shipped directly to Vietnam. We could not help wondering, what the hell they were thinking!! Young man, it takes a critical thinker to step outside the box and forge ahead as you do. This is how we learn. Great content. Please do not take some of these comments personally. Yes, they may be crude, but this is what they call spit balling. We are just throwing perspectives out there for general consideration. We are all responding with enthusiasm. Your passion evokes this response. You are commended for the effort. Thank You!!!!! @@bigduphusaj162
The SMPS (that you showed) are safe as houses mate. Just make sure it is a little bigger ( in amps) and fused properly. They also have internal safety features including a fuse and short circuit protection. It will need an enclosure like! Cool video!
Never run these off power supplies only batteries. The cheap ones melt up on hard shutdowns mate only the real ones survive them because of the better electronics and epoxy on the bits known for melting up on hard shutdowns. Soon as you get a power outage or even a big enough surge you're power supply shuts off and the heater cannot finish its shutdown cycle. Remember this one thing, the second you get a power out or a breaker flip you're heater is automatically toast. The most I've ever heard these cheap ones survive is 2 hard shutdowns. Cheers.
Id defo fuse the 12v supply. Unit draws up to 12 amps then can drop down to below 1 amp. Initial starting needs the fuel priming, especially as it only uses 1 teaspoonful in 250 clips of the pump. ( slow fuel feed). I used a rubber priming bulb inline on my campervan plus a fuel filter. heated air is always more effective mounted low so the heat can rise and be more beneficial.
You should mount the air intake (not the burner, the heater input) indoors for more efficiency and also, right now your setup can bring in exhaust fumes if winds favor it.
Be careful with running off your car batteries Adam, I have made a similar mistake with led lights in my council garage without power. A car battery is designed as a fast discharge,fast charge so as the diesel heater initially uses a few amps on startup and then drops right down during running, so is a low draw so won’t do your car battery much good, especially as you aren’t using your cars everyday. You would be better using a leisure battery as they are designed differently and are better suited to a low draw and I would have a battery charger but also for added cheaper running invest in a solar panel and solar charger. I plan on getting a diesel heater and a camping powerbank to run it and led lights, and be cheeky and charge the powerbank at work😂😂😂. However it would be cheaper to do leisure battery and solar panel but I worry about the panel getting nicked as it’s a council garage away from home
im in the same position as you jon - its a nightmare not having power to the garage isnt it? you can definitely work around it though mate - go for LIFEPO4 lithium leisure batteries and have them on rotate, charge one as your using the other.
I would use a separate battery connected to a solar panel to trickle charge the battery. Fuse the connection between battery and heater, mount the filter in the internal wall so the air is warmer and more efficient. The output warm air pipe extend to floor level. Buy a Carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguishers.
Bro the air intake should be coming out of the garage, like a loop so it can build up the air temperature.. if you don’t like the noise you can use a silencer ..( those hemp carbon filters work great 😊) oh I have seen some videos of running that exhaust pipe true a thank whit sand , creating a sand battery.. 💪
You should really put them inside biasicley the inlet air will be less work for the heater so your recirculating the airflow but put the exhaust outside this is how they are fitted in trucks
Just watched your video, good content and your explination is sound and detailed. Ive just watched cos ive nothing else to do. Ive had a few of these CDH and run 2 at the moment, one in my double garage/gym. Also one direct into my living room thats heating up 2 floors from 8 to 11 pm. Get yourself kero or red, save a penny or two. Best mix ive used for 2 years is 50/50 of each. Kero can be run on low settings and red very good for high. These are great bits of cheap kit that you know require periodical diy seevicing. Shame you went down the 70 quif box route, but if it works! Id rather save the 70 quid and make a. Box. Good luck with your channel. Be lucky
You should mount inside with the exhaust exiting to outside, that way you get the heat from the exhaust and the warmer air inside being used, so temp is higher 🤔
You could do with a heat gun to check the heat of the cables... I wouldn't advise leaving any battery connected to the car while using the heater look at a leisure battery
Hi adam, just wondering if you ever fancied reviewing a 380hp fiesta st (dynod), running cams, hpfp, big turbo and all the other supporting mods with abit more.
I’d of put the air intake inside , in the box outside seems like it could possibly blow exhaust fumes inside, I would definitely put a carbon monoxide alarm in there mate
Te sigo de mucho tiempo y del primer video me dado cuenta que eres una persona con caracter y un corazon grande. Espero que no cambies nunca y que seas un exemplo para la sociedad.
😂 yeah yet I fit them in fishing boats bigger than your house that go to the North Sea in all sorts of freezing weather. You're mate never set it up right and is likely a 2kw one. What do I know though I've only fitted EVERY known heating system there is in boats that are in a much harsher and colder environment than your house. Two genuine 4.7kwh ebers can heat an entire 36ft cuddy boat in the North Sea pal. Cheers
Hi Adam. Keep up the great content. Loving watching your uploads all the way over in Sydney Australia. We get cold winters here also and am looking to fit a cheep heating system to my double garage. Now you have had yours installed for about 4 months how are you finding it? Seriously considering this system. Cheers mate!
Nice one Adam thats what I like about your channel always something different i tell all my friends and family about you this is definitely a learning channel 👍.
@@scotttaylor4313 I appreciate this comment was 2 month ago but you mean to tell me even 2month ago you couldn't tell it was a bot? That's frightening tbh
Hi Adam 2 things why didn’t you put pump in cabinet be much neater and you should of mounted heater lower in cabinet so if exhaust leaks it will be away from getting sucked into garage
Ikr these exact copy models sold by maxprods have been shown they get about 4.2kWh genuine if semi-rigid fuel lines and short runs😂 litteraly the same as what you get from two 2500w fan heaters that are really about 2.1kWh. Adam needs to relax a second and think what's he's posting. Maybe not give advice on things he has no clue about.
At 3:50 mark please don't suggest that you hang a heavy unit off some light duty electrical wire. Recipe for disaster as the wire could fail or break soem strand and create a hot spot.
Adam get the air intake taken from inside the garage. Recirculate the air will make it much warmer. Not the combistion inlet pal leave all that outside.
I only watched to see those Motors! 😍 However, my new heater worked fine first time i used it, had it on for few hours, all good. Now when i turn it on, gets all warmed up, lasts about 5 mins then i get a E10 code, "Heater over Temperature" any idea what that is?
If you made it return air from garage, rather than heating the outside air coming in all the time it would be even more efficient. A couple of temperature gauges before and after ,would be a really good addition. And last but not least a carbon monoxide detector in 2 places, as you never know
Can’t you remove the glow plug without removing the diesel heater from where it’s been installed? I’ve done just that. It’s stuck to the floor of my van.
what I done was instead of sucking cold air through the heater ..I have recirculated the air in the room through the heater does that make sense..the cold air is being sucked from inside the garage and blown back in the garage
Adam Just be careful with that unit inside a metal box with so much exhaust also inside it. @joshua de lisle Done a full run down on the temperature the exhaust can get too. I can remember exactly the temperature but it’s like 300*c or something. I’d be concerned the ambient temperature inside the box could get high enough to combust something. The plastic, fuel line the wiring. And with it tucked in under the upvc fascia board the garage would be up in seconds mate. To be fair it would be safer mounted inside with plenty of airflow and the exhaust sleeved and vented straight out the wall. Better safe that sorry Adam because there’s to much money involved in that garage!!
Well spotted. I would mount the heater a few inches lower and sit it on the bottom wall of the box. The gasket of the heater will then seal the heater inside the air tight box and the exhaust and inlet connections of the combustion air are outside the box. The metal box then acts as a firewall, a CO isolator and a heat dissipater. This mimics the arrangement in a caravan where the heater was originally designed for. If the environment outside the garage is secure, I would also mount the diesel tank and the pump outside the garage below the heater box.
I'm a boat builder I've fitted over 150 of these. Do not in any way shape or form follow anything done in this vid and to fit these without knowing anything about them is fine on your own pad, don't be setting anyone else's garage on fire because you don't understand them. Cheers
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Adam me and my dad have run night heaters for years in our garages. What we learned especially in cold weather is best to have it low mounted and also have the intake plumbed inside also so it is more efficient
Totally agree hot air rises so should have been mounted lower to get the full benefit.
And as stated above (plumbed inside) the heater should suck air inside. If you keep pumping in from the outside, you're effectively pumping out warm air. Circulating inside has to be the better idea.
night heaters? any link to what your on about?
More importantly. In this setup you could suck in exhaust fumes. There should at least be more distance between exhaust and inlet but ideally connect inlet to the garage as well.
Kinda missed a trick the intake is outside so you are heating outside air if your intake was from the garage then as it warms so does the input air so less heat needed to warm up the air, it’s a closed circuit so no fumes as burner air is separated
Not sure thats right; pretty sure that thermodynamic efficiency is better if the air (oxygen) is cooler (denser). Thats why ICEs are turbo charged/supercharged. Given that the heater will only be used when its cold "outside" , its actually better using the outside air.
@@dwaggys3322 its not for combustion the hot air from the from the room run over the heated fins, you are wright about engines colder denser air better combustion but its not the case here. its easier to heat warm air than frizzing temp air from outside.
@@freespeech3608 true, but using outside air and pumping it in will cause posative pressure in the living space and help prevent drafts around doors and windows, it's also not recirculating spent/stale air
Enjoyed your video. It was good to see the giblets of the machine. I liked the idea of the weatherproof metal box. Some comments, mainly repeating stuff from the comments below:
- I can see why the hot air output was put high as you had an easier way into the garage via the soffit than coming in through the wall but the heat should be coming in low to give it some chance to heat something up in your garage before it all ends up in the roof space.
- the input air to the heater should come in from the garage eg. from all the lovely warm air in your roof space as it will be more efficient to heat pre-heated air than the external cold air
- you should have a fuel-filter between the fuel tank and the pump, especially as your fuel tank has its feed from the bottom of the tank which is where any crud from the fuel will settle
- replacing the fuel line with a better quality fuel line is a good idea but the 5mm automotive fuel line is too big for the pump. It should be closer to the original ID of 2mm and be hard and not squishy like the original fuel line. The squishy fuel line allowed the manufacturer to have a simpler/cheaper connection as the line can be pushed on the fuel nipples. The hard 2mm ID can't be pushed on the fuel nipples but you can the use the 5mm automotive fuel line to create joiner pieces and attached everything using jubilee clips
- it would be quieter if the fuel-pump was installed outside
- it might be safer if the exhaust pipe that is inside the metal box was wrapped in some exhaust wrap
- it is important to use a battery to run one these heaters as though you need 12V to start the machine and keep the machine running, more importantly, you need 12V to allow the machine to cool and shutdown properly. A 240V to 12V adapter wouldn't allow this cooling period if power was lost when the heater was running
- it is important to bleed the fuel line to the pump before you start the system as these type of pumps are lubricated by the fuel they are pumping. The pumps are good at pumping but not so good at sucking and so rely on the gravity feed from the fuel tank to do most of the work. If there is air in the fuel line then the pump can spend many minutes trying to suck this air out of the line without any lubrication
Ive installed a few of these Adam and i have a few of tips. Power supply could be a leisure battery fitted out of the way and charged via a motorbike charger which are very small and easily hidden, this way you can just turn it on when you like without faffing about opening bonnets and then every few days turn the charger on for a bit, I have mine setup this way with all the cabling in conduit and the control panel and charger mounted on the wall. I would also put a grommet around the fuel pipe going into the box as the pipe can move as the pump pulsates and it wont take long to cut the pipe on the metal entry point to the box. Lastly check your insurance with regards to a diesel fuel setup running an appliance as it could cause headaches in the event of a claim. Nice job fitting it in the box, i use mine in winter but usually put it on for an hour before i head out as they take a while to warm the space. Keep the videos rolling.
Cheers for the advice James 👍🏼
I've fitted 100s of these and there's more than just the battery problem😂 this is the worst setup I've ever seen. I agree with you on the battery then use a ctek or optimate to charge it. The optimate are the only ones that don't freak out when you charge the battery while the heaters running, the cteks sometimes show failed battery and they ramp up and down too quickly so you get a fluctuating fan noise from the heater, they work great when the heater is off though. The best maintenance charger about for doing big boys batteries especially ones powering these heaters is optimate 6. Ctek quality has tanked recently tbh and if you need any bigger than optimate 6 then it's because you have a gigantic 12v marine battery the size of a car.
@@bigduphusaj162 Or just get a Victron charger. Problem solved and they are perfectly safe to leave on all the time...
The heater drawers 40 watts continuously (3.5 to 4 amps) and 150 watts when the glow plug is heating.
That’s well within the capacity of a motorcycle battery but 4amps is beyond an Optimate charger.
I used a 200 watt 240V ac to 12V dc inverter. It cost £25 and runs efficiently at part load. A battery and charger would need a car charger and even that might struggle. It’s also likely to cook a bike battery when you forget to switch it off.
2 points on your installation ‼️
First warm air rises, so in any warm air heating system you want the heat blowing in low down.
Secondly you don't want the intake drawing air from outside, in winter that air is going to be colder.
You want the intake drawing air from inside, that way as the garage warms up your recirculating warmer air, rather than trying to heat up very cold air from outside.
It'll run way more efficiently and warmer that way.
Oh and another thing, china and japan are completely different countries.
Japan makes some quality gear, think Nikon, Honda etc
China on the other hand, products tend to be cheaper for a reason ie lower quality, poor build and lower quality control.
first two things I agree, or instal heater inside and only move outside exhaust pipe and same size intake air what exhaust pipe and instal heater lower close to floor, about quality so I have two of them in 4 years and no issue, fuel pump I have in flat position in both and no issue and again if you instal inside garage you save £70 plus work with box and also more heating will be inside because heater also giving heat from unit
He said China isn't Japan
Chinese is not Japan? Who knew?
I use mine with red diesel, which is cheaper (in my country) . You can also mix it with waste oil (60/40) without any smoke or smell. Those heaters are awesome....
Hi Adam. If you don't have one already it might be worth installing a Carbon Monoxide and Fire Alarm. I have a combined unit in my garage.
Had mine in the garage over 12 months now keeping the cossie warm and bikes great bit of kit
'China is in Japan' made me wee!
I've had a Chinese heater in my camper for 3 years and it's been faultless. The exhaust rotted after a winter so I fitted a Webasto pipe and silencer, exhaust is quieter too.
I nearly 💩 myself too. This guy should be on the stage
Due to recent financial and personal difficulties I’ve recently brought and lived in a static caravan for around 5 months and the first thing I installed was a diesel heater, cost £100 from eBay and I’d be lying if I didn’t say it wasn’t worth the money…. Great video as always Adam, keep up the good work bro 👌🏻
hi just a question, did you find one heater enough to heat the caravan?
@@David-ws6zrthe dude I'm the video used 1 to heat a double garage, will definitely heat the largest caravan on the road
Yes i lived caravan for 2 years. The cheap heaters weren't around then.
@@flybobbie1449, how's he going to power the unit with 12 volt , sounds like he's boon-docked in country ??
@@doneown503 Could use solar panel to charge battery.
This is the most in depth video I've seen so far and it's pretty decent at explaining the history and use of these. I have one now that I put in a old military crate for mobility and i installed a quick disconnect so I can either use it in the car , with alligator clamps , or connect it to a 120v to 12v 10a wall adapter I got that's really simple
During start and warm up these heaters draw around 30-40 amps so that 8-12amp wire that you used is actually more of a fire hazard than the psu's that you said aree a bit scratchy.
I've had mine connected to my cdh for over two years now without any issues at all.
Just like any other electrical unit I tune it off and unplug it when it's not in use.
Yip, and the hose from the pump to the unit is absorbing its pulsing power probably more than the cheap stock stuff. Dude never read the bit about semi-rigid lines did he. Nor does he even realise when you heat from above you lose all the heat to the space above the ducting. Terrible fitment and I like the guy but offfft
uses 8 Amps on start-up, not 30 or 40
Hi have one in camper and on it it takes the air to be heated from inside the van so it’s not heating outside air will you heating a large area it would be a good idea to do the same so as your garage heats up the heater will be more efficient
Been watching since you had like 500 subs. Your editing is getting better and better. Always look forward to your videos. Keep up the good work!
Agree, same here, lovely person and one of the best up and coming channels
I got a bar in my garage so we use the heater quite a bit. This is a great installation but move the heat intake into the the heated area and the pump outside. Lower the tank so it's easier to fuel. Also, try setting it to temp instead of Hertz for a garage.
Great video Adam. I installed one of these in my garden shed years ago before I could fine any links on youtube. I worked it on the basis of running one on my boat. Best thing I ever did. I installed everything outside except the controller its been working a treat
Next week we see how the insurance claim for a burnt down garage is progressing 😂👍🏻
😲 Dont say that!! 😬
@@Adam151082 don’t buy Chinese man, we all know it’s dog 💩
Oh wow. Hope not.
😂😂😂
Giblets i thought it was just the mother in law who had them 😂
you should get a c02 alarm
CO alarm....
In fact also have a multi gas in camper.
i think the other comments are right, pipe the air inlet to inside the garage, my mate's used to pull damp into his garage, that's probably why
hot air rises, so you should have the hot air piped in it low down
i'll keep an ear out on newcastle rd, fingers crossed every time i hear a fire engine...
i use one of these to supplement the heating in my house i run it on kerosene, it runs cleaner than diesel and is also cheaper i also drilled an extra hole for the air intake so the return air was warm air from the house and not from the cold air outside
I've been using the 5kw in my kitchen we got new for £100 4 years ago. I have it outside in a small cupboard I made with the air pipe through the stone wall into the kitchen of our large stone and lime house. The downstairs has large double doors between the kitchen and livingroom, so the heater is a first heat on a morning u til the log burner reaches temp. It's fantastic. The second year we had it in 2021 we had temps of -21°c but we were toasty. Only issue I had was last week the fan failed but £20 fix.
Got one of these for my shed in October, great little heaters, much cheaper than leccy! The Chinese ones are based on the patent of the original German design, the patent ran out so it's a legal copy. They are easy to disassemble, repair and reassemble.
They just aren't what they claim. They market themselves as much stronger than what they are. The 5,000 watt one is closer to 2,000 tops.
Also it's only legal NOW they were making these before the patent ran out.
@@SilvaDreams you're confused mate. The genuine ebers this exact one is based of does around 4.6kWh if fitted properly. This cheap copy does around 4.1kWh can be pushed to about 4.4 if you do rigid fuel lines and set them so the fan perimiters goes up to 4800 ideally 5000rpm and you set the HZ perimeters to- Min1.6 and Max 5.5hz
Now if you've got a good one plumbed in right and a decent plug it will run no problem at these "higher than manufacturer" setting, if you have a badly made one or its not plumbed in correct you won't ever get it running good at the maximum perimiters which on the cheap ones are in the hidden menu. To suggest these put out 2kWh is utterly ridiculous as they beat two claimed 2500w fan heaters pal. Even they lie the 2500w electric fan heaters are 2.1kWh a really good one 2.2kWh. What do I know though I've only fitted about 150 of these and Every other type of heating systems in boats.. that go to the north sea.. in freezing conditions. 2kw 😂 mate the smaller 2Kw cheapo versions of these put out about 1.7kWh they aint much behind the real ones either.
Hmmm.... Mr. Big has done his homework! As such, these heaters have been in use since the late 1930's.
I remember seeing these heaters installed in military vehicles as far back as the 1960's. I remember them in England and Germany as most NATO countries installed in buses and trucks and tanks. The Navy had them installed on most ships. One of the most humorous observations is when in Vietnam, they were fitted at the factory and shipped directly to Vietnam. We could not help wondering, what the hell they were thinking!!
Young man, it takes a critical thinker to step outside the box and forge ahead as you do. This is how we learn.
Great content. Please do not take some of these comments personally. Yes, they may be crude, but this is what they call spit balling. We are just throwing perspectives out there for general consideration. We are all responding with enthusiasm. Your passion evokes this response. You are commended for the effort.
Thank You!!!!! @@bigduphusaj162
The SMPS (that you showed) are safe as houses mate. Just make sure it is a little bigger ( in amps) and fused properly. They also have internal safety features including a fuse and short circuit protection. It will need an enclosure like! Cool video!
Never run these off power supplies only batteries. The cheap ones melt up on hard shutdowns mate only the real ones survive them because of the better electronics and epoxy on the bits known for melting up on hard shutdowns. Soon as you get a power outage or even a big enough surge you're power supply shuts off and the heater cannot finish its shutdown cycle. Remember this one thing, the second you get a power out or a breaker flip you're heater is automatically toast. The most I've ever heard these cheap ones survive is 2 hard shutdowns. Cheers.
Adam I’ve got a old parkway fire in my garage gets up to 35 degrees in the winter, keeps the old mk2 escort lovely and warm, keep up the vids mate.
Can’t beat an old parkray I had 1 in my allotment shed hooked up to a copper tank for the water supply and radiators piped up
Cheers Wayne
You need pipe extending to floor level hot air rises so your heating the roof space first first.
Id defo fuse the 12v supply.
Unit draws up to 12 amps then can drop down to below 1 amp.
Initial starting needs the fuel priming, especially as it only uses 1 teaspoonful in 250 clips of the pump. ( slow fuel feed).
I used a rubber priming bulb inline on my campervan plus a fuel filter.
heated air is always more effective mounted low so the heat can rise and be more beneficial.
Have one in my camper. Never let us down yet
You should mount the air intake (not the burner, the heater input) indoors for more efficiency and also, right now your setup can bring in exhaust fumes if winds favor it.
Be careful with running off your car batteries Adam, I have made a similar mistake with led lights in my council garage without power. A car battery is designed as a fast discharge,fast charge so as the diesel heater initially uses a few amps on startup and then drops right down during running, so is a low draw so won’t do your car battery much good, especially as you aren’t using your cars everyday. You would be better using a leisure battery as they are designed differently and are better suited to a low draw and I would have a battery charger but also for added cheaper running invest in a solar panel and solar charger. I plan on getting a diesel heater and a camping powerbank to run it and led lights, and be cheeky and charge the powerbank at work😂😂😂. However it would be cheaper to do leisure battery and solar panel but I worry about the panel getting nicked as it’s a council garage away from home
im in the same position as you jon - its a nightmare not having power to the garage isnt it? you can definitely work around it though mate - go for LIFEPO4 lithium leisure batteries and have them on rotate, charge one as your using the other.
Nice one. Also as previously mentioned get some red diesel as it's cheaper and perfectly legal to use in your heater so will be even more of a saving.
Literally just finished watching your last video and I get surprised with another up load
I think I be having big fire extinguishers hand and carbon monoxide alarm as well
😊
I had one of these fitted into an external housing. The biggest faf was picking up diesel supplies every few days. I would buy a central heating tank
Yes, that was my beef. I was using the garage for 6 hours a day. 15 litres a week.
Whats really going to bake your noodle is when you realise you can buy these with a box
I would use a separate battery connected to a solar panel to trickle charge the battery. Fuse the connection between battery and heater, mount the filter in the internal wall so the air is warmer and more efficient. The output warm air pipe extend to floor level. Buy a Carbon monoxide detector and a fire extinguishers.
Bro the air intake should be coming out of the garage, like a loop so it can build up the air temperature.. if you don’t like the noise you can use a silencer ..( those hemp carbon filters work great 😊) oh I have seen some videos of running that exhaust pipe true a thank whit sand , creating a sand battery.. 💪
You should really put them inside biasicley the inlet air will be less work for the heater so your recirculating the airflow but put the exhaust outside this is how they are fitted in trucks
Handy to have spare gaskets set & glowplug, maybe a spare burner chamber if it really gets blocked up 👍
I would recommend fitting a grommet where the fuel line passes through the enclosure.
Just watched your video, good content and your explination is sound and detailed. Ive just watched cos ive nothing else to do. Ive had a few of these CDH and run 2 at the moment, one in my double garage/gym. Also one direct into my living room thats heating up 2 floors from 8 to 11 pm. Get yourself kero or red, save a penny or two. Best mix ive used for 2 years is 50/50 of each. Kero can be run on low settings and red very good for high. These are great bits of cheap kit that you know require periodical diy seevicing. Shame you went down the 70 quif box route, but if it works! Id rather save the 70 quid and make a. Box. Good luck with your channel. Be lucky
Nice video that box is weatherproof but I guarantee when you open it in a few months it's full of fucking spiders still 🤣
You should mount inside with the exhaust exiting to outside, that way you get the heat from the exhaust and the warmer air inside being used, so temp is higher 🤔
@18.10 "this is a Chinese heater, and China is in Japan and the quality isn't the highest" you sure about that Adam??? 🙂
China isn't Japan. I had to double check 🤣
He deffo said isn't
@@5tevenH quite likely after re watching a few times
i just put on of these in my camper, thanks for the vid, feel more confident taking mine apart when needed now :)
You could do with a heat gun to check the heat of the cables... I wouldn't advise leaving any battery connected to the car while using the heater look at a leisure battery
Hi adam,
just wondering if you ever fancied reviewing a 380hp fiesta st (dynod), running cams, hpfp, big turbo and all the other supporting mods with abit more.
I put one in our summer house. Similar job but used the 240 to 12v transformer. I run mine on jet fuel!
I’d of put the air intake inside , in the box outside seems like it could possibly blow exhaust fumes inside, I would definitely put a carbon monoxide alarm in there mate
Te sigo de mucho tiempo y del primer video me dado cuenta que eres una persona con caracter y un corazon grande. Espero que no cambies nunca y que seas un exemplo para la sociedad.
How is the working now? Does it warm that garage space well enough after this amount of time?
More suitable for smaller spaces to be fair, me mate just put one in his house and it worked out cheaper to have the gas on in the one room it's in.
😂 yeah yet I fit them in fishing boats bigger than your house that go to the North Sea in all sorts of freezing weather. You're mate never set it up right and is likely a 2kw one. What do I know though I've only fitted EVERY known heating system there is in boats that are in a much harsher and colder environment than your house. Two genuine 4.7kwh ebers can heat an entire 36ft cuddy boat in the North Sea pal. Cheers
As it is said, EXPERIANCE is wisdom!@@bigduphusaj162
Hi Adam. Keep up the great content. Loving watching your uploads all the way over in Sydney Australia. We get cold winters here also and am looking to fit a cheep heating system to my double garage. Now you have had yours installed for about 4 months how are you finding it? Seriously considering this system. Cheers mate!
Nice one Adam thats what I like about your channel always something different i tell all my friends and family about you this is definitely a learning channel 👍.
Thanks Richard.
Adam is this you with the giveaways that your sending people or is it fake
@@scotttaylor4313 I've had 2 recently requested me to get in touch with Adam to collect a gift through Instagram im sure it a scam.
@@scotttaylor4313 I appreciate this comment was 2 month ago but you mean to tell me even 2month ago you couldn't tell it was a bot? That's frightening tbh
Hi Adam 2 things why didn’t you put pump in cabinet be much neater and you should of mounted heater lower in cabinet so if exhaust leaks it will be away from getting sucked into garage
Never come across a 4 kW hair dryer!
Ikr these exact copy models sold by maxprods have been shown they get about 4.2kWh genuine if semi-rigid fuel lines and short runs😂 litteraly the same as what you get from two 2500w fan heaters that are really about 2.1kWh. Adam needs to relax a second and think what's he's posting. Maybe not give advice on things he has no clue about.
I love the Cossis in the Back! Had 20 years ago a silver one 🥰🥰
Nice video, nice installation too. I have watched alooooot of dieselheater TH-cam clip, but this one I really enjoyed. Thank you.
A space that size you looks like you could do with a couple of these, or just route more piping around then garage to heat it evenly
its more usefull if you place it low ? ...so the cool air that sits low heats up faster in an more even way ...
At 3:50 mark please don't suggest that you hang a heavy unit off some light duty electrical wire. Recipe for disaster as the wire could fail or break soem strand and create a hot spot.
Adam, no links in the description? I'm interested in that exterior housing box mate
Adam get the air intake taken from inside the garage. Recirculate the air will make it much warmer. Not the combistion inlet pal leave all that outside.
Heat my house with one been running daily for 3 months now, never fails to start
I only watched to see those Motors! 😍
However, my new heater worked fine first time i used it, had it on for few hours, all good. Now when i turn it on, gets all warmed up, lasts about 5 mins then i get a E10 code, "Heater over Temperature" any idea what that is?
For a more efficient heating connect the air input to the garage, not only air output.
Good job your jacket hasn’t gone up in flames 🥵🥵🥵
I have one in camper, great heater. Looking at domestic, use old battery, charge at night using timer. Could use solar.
Beauty is if power cut (who knows if gov. will cut power to promote green agenda) can still run heater, ideal for remote living.
Use red diesel mate, it’s about £0.80 Great video ❤
Risk £250 fine to save a couple of quid?
@@BenGillam you can use red diesel for heating just not commercial heating he isn’t a business
Its £1.30 a litre near me
Been looking online, I think it’s ok to use
Yes use red the only people who get it for 80p is farmers people who buy in bulk ect at the pumps it’s probably around £1.25 ish
Great job but at 14 minutes surely you got the pump running the wrong way?
Nice video thanks, do you have a link to the fuel tank you mounted on the wall, please.
If you made it return air from garage, rather than heating the outside air coming in all the time it would be even more efficient. A couple of temperature gauges before and after ,would be a really good addition. And last but not least a carbon monoxide detector in 2 places, as you never know
Ask Paul Nicely if you can kindly have the oil back from ya sump which he drained last week then you can run it for free 😂,good video fella 👍
Better fit inside garage at ground level then vent exhaust outside. Remember these are fitted inside vehicles, so seem safe enough.
It's meant for air recirculation, pipe the other end inside with the heat 🔥 and should be at the lowest points possible.
Try using two ford transit egr valves on the exhaust to give you hot water from waste exhaust heat
I'd looked at these myself they look OK mate thanks for the video. I'd put a carbon monoxide tester in the garage though just incase 👍👍
Can’t you remove the glow plug without removing the diesel heater from where it’s been installed? I’ve done just that. It’s stuck to the floor of my van.
what I done was instead of sucking cold air through the heater ..I have recirculated the air in the room through the heater does that make sense..the cold air is being sucked from inside the garage and blown back in the garage
A hairdryer output is about 1 kw whereas the diesel heater is 5 kw. Not a good comparison.
It would be a good idea to put a block connector on the glow plug one of them push fit fitting that only fits one way then it’s easier to take it off
Adam, was the pump on the wrong way to start with... bet you had fun diagnosing that if so 😃
Great idea on the box. Might do the same with mine.. also
Love how you kept the “fuck sake” in. 😂
Heat rises so you should have put the heater hose down low to get a good circulation.
Just the one point get a longer hose and pipe your hot air to floor level, you will get a better effect as hot air rises ,
I thought you wanted the pump outside because of the noise?
Off topic Adam but be interesting to get Paul Linfoots thoughts on the recent RS500 sale. Could make an interesting video?
Very good video . Interesting to see the heater apart & how it works . Thank you
You could use a ceilings fan to circulate warm throughout room
Nice one fella, good insight I’m thinking of putting one in my van👍
Adam
Just be careful with that unit inside a metal box with so much exhaust also inside it.
@joshua de lisle
Done a full run down on the temperature the exhaust can get too. I can remember exactly the temperature but it’s like 300*c or something. I’d be concerned the ambient temperature inside the box could get high enough to combust something. The plastic, fuel line the wiring. And with it tucked in under the upvc fascia board the garage would be up in seconds mate.
To be fair it would be safer mounted inside with plenty of airflow and the exhaust sleeved and vented straight out the wall.
Better safe that sorry Adam because there’s to much money involved in that garage!!
Well spotted. I would mount the heater a few inches lower and sit it on the bottom wall of the box. The gasket of the heater will then seal the heater inside the air tight box and the exhaust and inlet connections of the combustion air are outside the box. The metal box then acts as a firewall, a CO isolator and a heat dissipater. This mimics the arrangement in a caravan where the heater was originally designed for. If the environment outside the garage is secure, I would also mount the diesel tank and the pump outside the garage below the heater box.
Good man for giving anythink a go,but I couldn’t be doing with that pump going all day would do my head in.
Found ya channel the other month and binge watched most of them, top lad you are mate keep up the great vids 👍
Great presentation, but Why did you keep your jacket hanging there?
Well done! Where are you located? Low temp in Winter?
We are getting similar heaters for our new vans, whenever they decide to arrive 😂. Might offer to fit them after watching this 😊
I'm a boat builder I've fitted over 150 of these. Do not in any way shape or form follow anything done in this vid and to fit these without knowing anything about them is fine on your own pad, don't be setting anyone else's garage on fire because you don't understand them. Cheers
Nice Ford :). I thought you were going to put the noisy pump outside?
‘China is in Japan’, what an absolute font of knowledge!
Could you use green diesel / agricultural fuel
Not sure I need one here in Australia, but I enjoyed watching you fit it
‘Let’s put a little in, bla bla leaks’ and you emptied your jerrycan. 😂