Easy Oil Change Conversion John Deere
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2019
- Converting the John Deere easy oil change back to traditional oil change system. www.howtowithdoc.com/easy-oil... There you can find parts list to convert the John Deere easy oil change system.
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Just a little help for someone changing there oil and adding the extension lines. You can put aluminum foil over the frame right under drain plug before you remove it bend the edges to make a drain into your pain. the throw foil away when done no mess
Just finished installing the oil conversion kit. All went very smoothly and glad I made the change. One point I discovered is that if you don't have a alligator wrench a great substitute is a 13 mm 12 point socket instead. I found it fit perfectly and removed the bolt easily. Note: a 13 mm 6 point socket will not work - only the 13 mm 12 point.
the oil plug has 4 sides, therefore you need a socket that has a its points in multiples of 4, ie; 8 point socket
Thanks Doc! Buying the parts now. Who thinks this quickchange system is a good thing? John Deere Corporate has to be the only ones.
You need an allen socket to install the oil filter mount at 6:20 to avoid deforming the threads.
Just a tiny thing that you might consider, a couple small blocks on the opposite side of the drain you can pull the mower onto, the incline help drain a bit more of the oil out. Used a slope that led into a car port when I changed the oil on my rider.
Beautiful work doc.
Good tips.
👍🏽😎
I have used that gator wrench for years, very handy on odd stuff.
Excellent... I was thinking the same thing and the alligator socket was the missing item for me... open end wrench will fit the oil drain but there is not enough room to move it in the tight area. I like the idea of aluminum foil to help guide the oil out as Eric said too. All good Ideas... Thanks Doc.
Nice video, thank you. As far as that right side square plug, bend a piece of cardboard to make a valley under that square plug directing the oil out to you bucket before removing the square plug. Will keep it 90% clean.
You come up with some good ideas Doc. Keep up the good work
8pt sockets will get that drain plug out on the (R) side. Pampers/Huggies work better than paper towels for oil absorption.
The Courage V twin engine on my cub cadet LTX-1046 had the same oil change problem. I replaced it by using a 3/8 inch ball valve connected to the engine block with a 4 inch threaded nipple from Lowes. I added a threaded plug to the ball valve to keep it from leaking if the valve were to be knocked open. Then I took a 2 inch nipple and forced it into 6 inches of 5/8 inch clear tubing. I keep it in the accessory box. When I want to change oil, I put the tube assembly into the ball valve opening and open the valve. Done. Looks like that would be better than that gadget you are using. BTW, I'm on this page because I am thinking of moving to the Deere because this deck doesn't mulch well with a plug. And I need a mulch plug to keep from throwing grass on my red mulch covered flower beds.
Thanks Doc! Spot on. Only weird thing was the hex heads to remove the side skirts were 8mm and not 5/16 on my S120.
A section of cardboard (or heavy paper) that is creased into a V can be used to keep the oil off the frame.
A plastic bag on the floor that has kitty litter on it makes for easy cleanup.
Doing this after the break in, great idea
Great video thanks for taking the time to do it
I'm not sure about using the locktite and if I did I would use it sparingly applying it with the small brush so it's just on the pipe threads to prevent it getting mixed in with the oil...Thanks for the helpful video. It's nice to see how it's done before hand.
One of the things I enjoyed the most when I moved up to a X570 two years ago. All of that came standard. My only complaint is the location of the fuel filter still hard to change.
Great tutorial Doc, thanks.
Very welcome
I definitely recommend as you will for sure save money and make sure to get all old oil changed, but it will cost you more than "$5".....probably like 15-20 for the SAE-30 (api SJ if calls for, mine does for warranty) and a quality filter.
Thank you doc.
Great video!
Brilliant move
Glad to see you put the gloves on.....
A standard open end wrench will fit the square plug.
Dang Doc. I can't get anything done when you upload. The notification comes in and everything else stops. Think you could hold back for a few days haha!?! Keep up the good stuff!
Nice job
Good video... I will do the same on my E120... one suggestion: why not siphon the bulk of the oil through the dip stick ?
Personally the EZ change system only purpose is to improve their profit margins. For a thread locker like Loctite Blue to work, all traces of oil must be removed from the surfaces, if you can't do that, it won't work and you're wasting money buying it. I hope you didn't use a torque wrench instead of a breaker bar to break loose that big bolt, that will really mess up your torque wrench, the accuracy will pretty much be gone. You mentioned the importance of proper tools, I almost fell out of my chair when I saw you using those big Channel Locks to tighten the oil drain tube, and those universal pin wrenches are a poor substitute for a proper socket.
Nice job, doing it right is better than doing it quick. After the change, what size filter can I use if I don't want to use factory or just go with Deere one?
Great video that was a great video I wondered about that I didn't think a lot of that oil would come out that dirty do you weigh the oil filter was. Why do you side to get a John Deere give me a good idea thank you
It's a very good idea, but I installed one of those on mine about 30 years ago.
Oh yeah, my JD garden tractor is still running strong, no matter how much I abuse it...
I do like the Gator🐊 Tool though, where'd you get that???🤔🐊😲
TIP: syphon the crank case through the oil filler / dip stick. Way less messy.
What size is the extension tube for the oil drain? Need one for draining thanks
Hi Doc chance you have the link for the parts I need to change my e130 over to a normal oil change? Love your videos ❤
Hey Doc, what is that 90° fitting that is up high on the engine between the oil filter and the spark plug boot? It’s the one with the hose attached, right above the orange and white sticker.
I know, right, everybody's a critic. Me too. Try turning your oil container around and pour with the spout up instead of down. I know, it seems counter intuitive, but it pours easier with no "glugs" by releasing the inside air locking. Great video, clear instructions and demonstrations. Love John Deere but I agree with the viewer that indicated it to be a scam. Pay more for the convenience, then go buy the parts to change back to traditional.
You checked oil level before the filter had oil in it. Then checked again and both times were perfect?
I appreciate you taking the time and doing the video. I just bought an e120 and was going to do the same to mine. I just can't think of old oil being in the engine when changing my oil and filter. I was planning on extracting the oil from the crankcase via the dipstick holder prior to installing the kit instead of the route you took. Then I thought well why don't I take the advantage of a larger filter and extra oil capacity to help keep the engine running cooler. So then out of the blue a bell went off in my head and I thought of not buying the kit keeping what I've got now and just once a year extract all the oil out of the engine and just add extra oil to get it to where it should be with the 30-second oil filter. Once a year oil change I can handle the $40 filter price.
Any tips for getting the new oil filter on? I'm having a very difficult time getting it to go on all the way. I have the correct parts for the e160 (i.e., the same as the OP used) and am also ordering a oil filter wrench (the TY26640).
Good video Doc! Where's the parts info?
What happened to the part numbers? I can't find them anywhere. Not in the description. Not on your website. Did John Deere pay you to take it off? LOL
Do you know the part# for the oil filter threaded adapter. Amazon doesn't have it and not sure if they will sell it again
I prefer Synthetic oil, 0W40 or 5W40. Anybody have a preference or recommendation?
Also, anybody have thoughts on Cub-Cadet XT1/2, or Sears ProSeries ?
I also like and want the Kohler V-Twin motor, skip on a Briggs&Straton.
HEY DOC--WHAT IS A GOOD TRANMISSION OIL FOR MY POULAN PRO PR16H42STA ??????
How do you like the john deer. Looking at the s180
That ez change system is a scam by john deer to make some ez change for themselves
Well played. And true!
Thank you! I just purchased the S160 and also am not comfortable with just changing a filter.
Where is the 12mm hex part number? Can’t find it on your list
When are you going to upload the video of the lawn you did the 1 day treatment of all the product on?
The conversion kit is available at John Deere Dealers
The pin wrench trashed the external threads on the MIU13767 adapter. DO NOT USE! Spend the money for the proper 12 mm hex socket. Off to order a new adapter...
As for the piece for the oil filter side, you should have try to get an extended pipe fitting. Also cardboard is great for that oil problem.
I like this idea but am concerned that JD might claim it voids the warranty. Anyone checked into this?
Saw a video last night where the tech used a piece of cardboard under the drain plug to create a trough to initially guide the oil past the frame and into a can. No oil spilling onto the frame and all over the place. Once the oil drained the extender tube could be installed. Minimal mess.
I can just hear that Georgia humidity!
I was in North GA for 50 years. Got used to the humidity.
Is PGF complete sold out it’s saying no longer available on Amazon
Ignore this I just watched the video a day before this one came out
Well got 13 days left til the reel mower give away 😀
I would have put a small piece of aluminum foil under the drain plug. A Fram 3614 is a popular filter for lawn mower engines, all brands.
So where are the part numbers?
Not to change the subject but i was impressed with the video quality. What make and model of the equipment did you use?
My kohler and Kawasaki motors say not to twist in the dipstick cap when checking oil. You may want to check your manual. If you screw it is and shouldn't it will show more oil on the stick than it should.
tin foil will help, form it like a small drainage canal, will reduce mess
I used the female end of a 3/4 drive ratchet extension to remove the drain plug. I could not believe how much dirty oil is left in the motor with just using the quick change alone.
Hey Doc,does changing the system void the warranty?
Not really sure to be honest. Maybe give them a buzz?
Why didn't you wipe all the extra loctite off the nipple before installing the filter?
Not a bad idea, however, will a modification void your warranty?
Shouldn't. You're using genuine John Deere parts.
You have to tilted toward the dripping side
To those who prefer to retain the factory system, and leaving aside the cost, where are you putting the used "Easy Change" filter which still holds over a quart of used oil? In the garbage can I expect.
Tip the tractor
In order to get a proper oil level measurement, do NOT screw in the dip stick. Also, make sure to check it again after you run the motor for a minute and allow the oil pump to fill the filter.
From the JD owner's manual... Install and tighten dipstick.....Remove dipstick....Check oil level on dipstick. Oil must be between ADD and FULL marks.
If you continue to use the quick change system and leave all that dirty oil in the engine, in my opinion you will shorten the life of your engine.
John Deere knows more than you lol
I would suggest gloves too protect your hands.
Expect Failure of many engines with this idea? Briggs is not what it was either?
Dude....I make nearly 40 an hour, you are taking a system that you pay 40 bucks for to change, to make it a traditional oil change that takes up more time and more disposal etc....sorry my time is worth more than going through this and changing it back....but hey to each their own.