John Deere Easy Oil Change Conversion with No Oil Spill (Almost) @DIY Boomers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- Convert the John Deere Easy Oil Change system back to the conventional oil filtering system with little or nearly no oil spill.
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• John Deere Easy Oil Ch...
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Threaded nipple for oil filter #MIU13767
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Briggs & Stratton 492932S Oil Filter (2 Pack)
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Briggs and Stratton 594200 Oil Drain Hose
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Replacement Part #796532 Hose Connector
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Briggs & Stratton SAE 30 30W Engine Oil - 48 Oz.
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#JohnDeereS130EasyOilChangeConversion #JohnDeereS130 #JohnDeereOilChangeWithNoMess #DIYProjects - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I have a new S130. Wish I saw this video before I purchased the JD kit. I like the flex hose on the B&S kit better.
Yeah, the flex hose makes it a bit easier, but I’m sure the rigid drain pipe will work just fine.
I completed the mod this afternoon. I have heard there is a lot of old oil left in the engine but I was shocked! Definitely glad I did this mod.
@@youmbgtube Yup, it really makes me wonder about this idea of John Deere’s.
I just ordered an S130 to replace my 20+ year old JD GT225 with a recently blown head gasket.
I've seen other videos of this conversion, but yours is the first showing the flexible drain tube. Seems like the better option to go with.
This is the first modification I intend to do after the break-in period oil change.
I hate that design of the "30 second " oil change. Especially since it leaves so much used oil still in the crankcase.
I feel like it's designed on purpose to make engines fail quicker over time. But I get that it's also enticing to buyers who want easy and quick "DIY" maintenance even if it's at a higher expense than a couple quarts of oil and a filter. I'm sure most of those easy change filters end up in a trash can instead of the proper disposal. But I could be wrong.
Thank you for the video and part numbers.
BTW, I do plan to rebuild the engine on my gt225 as a project and then sell it or use it as a second mower or just as a snow plow. Since I have the blade for it. It deserves better than to end up as scrap.
You’re welcome. Always glad to hear the videos are helpful.
Yeah, it still has me scratching my head what is behind the decision to implement the quick change. I agree with your thoughts on why they did it. Time will tell how that all works out.
I really like how easy the drain hose makes the oil changes. I’m sure you’re going to enjoy your new S130. Good luck with your conversion and thanks for watching.
I appreciate the instructional video, and part references with ordering info. We’ve got the John Deere E120, with only 17 hours. Planning on doing this conversion ASAP. Thanks, Wilbur in Florida 👍
You’re welcome! Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. We really like our S130. I’m sure you’ll enjoy your E120!
I envy you’re state residency! Are you two snowbirds or have you always lived there? We remain in the midwest and still tolerate the winter months.
Greetings from Canada. I just bought my S130 and will be doing the conversion as well. Seen several videos on the conversion and really like yours the best. Love the pump idea and really like the drain hose. Will being doing your way. Many thanks.
You’re so welcome. Glad it helped with your decision making. We really like our S130, good luck with yours and the conversion.
Great video! I will definitely be trying your method this next weekend when converting my s130. Why John Deere thinks the EZ Change is a good idea is beyond me.
Thanks! Yes, same here. I can only imagine that they are targeting people who either can’t, or don’t want to do a conventional oil change and are not concerned with leaving dirty oil in their engine. In my mind, it can only result in the engine not lasting as long as it should.
I very like your method, clean work without mess.I ordered a s-130 and will get it in may. First thing that I’m gonna do is the conversion.
Cheers
From New-Brunswick Canada
I would certainly agree with your choices of the S130 and converting it. One thing that I might do differently on the conversion is:
To minimize oil spill even more, use the oil pump to suction oil from the bottom of the filter adapter base before removing it. Might be worth a try.
Greeting from SC , USA. Your method is the better than at least five I have seen on the YT. Good thinking ahead. Pumping first, tilting the mower side to side and having patience in letting gravity do it's science does make a huge difference when removing spin on type filters pre and post conversion. Some folks say it's a big mess. I say they have no patience. Furthermore those fuel/oil hand pumps are a great prelude to the process. Harbor Freight has them too. I pump diluted Simple Green in and out of a bucket to clean the pump after use. Thank for your video post.
You’re welcome. Yeah, I really hate making a big oil mess, so I do everything that I can to avoid it. I guess some folks don’t mind it so much.
I wasn't going to watch this video, because of you complaining about making a mess. I actually glad I did, you did a nice job. Not sure if anyone likes paying $50 to change less than half the oil in their lawnmower.
Thanks for watching. Yeah, if there’s anything I can do to avoid an oil mess, I’ll do it. I like the way you described overpaying for an oil change that doesn’t even get the job done!
Nice job pumping the old oil out first made it for a cleaner job, I will be doing this on my new 170, thank you
Yes, you’re welcome. Pretty much mess free if you prepare for a little oil draining out of the filter adapter base when you remove it.
Don’t know if you saw my reply to Jason who is planning a conversion also. I mentioned maybe being able to pump some remaining oil out of the adapter base before removing it to avoid spilling that last bit of oil. Since that, I took a look at the adapter base and it looks like the lower portion of the base is constructed such that pumping from the top of the base may not reach that little bit of oil in the bottom.
So just prepare for a small spill when removing the filter adapter base. Enjoy your new 170!
Used this video to convert my e130. Thank you sir!
You’re welcome! Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful.
The drain hose looks way better than the fixed fitting with the bayonet. Will be ordering from Amazon and installing.
For sure, I’m happy with it. Works great.
using that pump to remove most of the oil was a great idea
Thanks. Yeah, I had the pump for using it with gas, so I looked up if it could be used for pumping oil.
You saved my bacon yesterday. After removing the EZ Change I got to the 4-sided drain plug and could NOT get it off. Was looking at having to find and buy 7/16" 8-sided socket. Luckily, I had watched your vid not long before doing the conversion and quickly found it. I had a set of adapters including 1/2 to 3/8, got an extension on it and ratchet with socket, worked. Whew. Wasn't looking good. Had I seen your vid first, likely would have gone with the B&S flex tube, oh well. Thanks for the vid.
You’re welcome. That’s one reason I really like TH-cam, there’s so many ways to get things done and 9 times out of 10, you’ll find a solution. Also glad to hear that me being cheap, saved someone else some time and money. 😎 Thanks for watching.
@@DIYBoomers No doubt DIY. Honestly didn't think drain plug would be an issue, wrong answer. Precarious location. I thought the big bolt on the EZ change would be the tough one, it was not. Sort of lucky that one of last vids watched before conversion, was yours so it was early in history. Thanks again for the effort. 👍 And, no more "EZ change" for JD. 😀
@faxmen09 👍
Nicely done 👍 up
Thanks
Great video!
Thanks!
I like the large oil filter to help cool the oil but will definitely upgrade the oil drain with something like you are using. Also I will probably change the filter every other time.
That’s a twist. Hadn’t thought about doing it that way. Interesting! Are you planning on draining the filter when you drain the crankcase?
@DIY Boomers yes I have a vacuum pump to be able to clean the hosing the filer sits on then adding a small amount of oil into the filter before I reinstall it.
I used my shop vac connected to the dipstick tube. Ran the shop vack while adding the drain extension. Not a drop of oil came out. Spme oil went into the shop vac but was easily poured into my waste oil can.
That’s a new one on me! Sounds like it got the job done alright. Good job, I always like finding a work around. Like the old saying goes - Necessity is the Mother of Invention!
A silly question but what are you using to lift the side you’re working on? My ramps are most likely too tall and I’d have to remove the deck to use them. Bottle jack maybe?
Great video and like many others have said, your method wins out on YT! Glad I decided to watch a 5th video on the same topic!
Thanks, yeah, I really don’t like cleaning up oil spills so that’s what motivated me for that job. I actually did use ramps. I have a pair of old, molded plastic Blitz Rhino Ramps that are just under 7” tall.
Thanks, i would have used blue locktite
You’re welcome. Blue is good, it is more easy removed if maintenance is needed.
Where did you get the screw in adaptor for your Briggs & Stratton 594200 Oil Drain Hose???
I bought the Briggs & Stratton Hose Connector #796532 and the Briggs & Stratton Oil Drain Hose #594200 on the internet at jackssmallengines.com
I don't like leaving dirty oil in either, so what I did last time, was to replace the 30 sec oil filter and drain the extra oil from the right side of the engine, where you put your drain. That way, it's the best of both worlds, using the big filter and drain all of the old oil. Just more costly. I don't know if the 30sec filter is any better than the regular filter but I've seen the 30sec filter with the outside cover removed and the filter inside is quite small. Someone needs to test it, vs a standard filter.
Now that’s a twist! Would have never given that a thought. Certainly gets the job done.
I have a new s220, but I don’t have the easy change filter,I just got the regular filter.But I like that oil drain tube . We’re did you find that ? Nice job on the video. I like how you worked around not having the proper tools! LOL 👍
Thanks. Pretty sure I ordered it from Amazon. Below is a link from there, but you could search the part “Briggs and Stratton 594200 Oil Drain Hose” and find it elsewhere. Yeah, hate to buy too many tools that I won’t be using very often. 😎 Almost forgot, you’ll also need the hose connector that inserts into the engine, link below for that also.
www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-594200-Drain-Hose/dp/B017650GL4/ref=asc_df_B017650GL4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216532910363&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14069240487820374220&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022344&hvtargid=pla-348901613502&psc=1
www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-796532-Hose-Connector/dp/B002WNW970/ref=asc_df_B002WNW970/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416788749780&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6498830476322284564&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022344&hvtargid=pla-965418101037&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=90729929941&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416788749780&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6498830476322284564&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022344&hvtargid=pla-965418101037
How much oil you were able to pump out with Pennzoil multiuse pump, out of maximum 1.9L? I am thinking if someone does not want to change the easy oil by this conversion kit, at least removing substantial residual oil (if it is like 1.7L) out of maximum 1.9 L, that may be better than just using easy oil filter. Also, is the Pennzoil pump is model 36677? Thanks so much for useful information.
You’re welcome. Yeah, the model number is 36677. Don’t know exactly how much can be extracted since I didn’t gauge how much oil it took to top it off once I converted the easy change. But I do believe the minimal amount remaining would not be detrimental after refilling. That’s not a bad idea to extract what’s outside of the quick change, add the quick change and then top it off. Kind of expensive tho after paying $50 for the quick change alone.
So....with this conversion... how often would you do oil changes now? Thanks.
John Deere recommends changing your oil every 50 hours or once a year, whichever comes first. You’re welcome, thanks for watching!
Do you have the part number of the conversion kit? Great video!
Thanks! Although you can find conversion kits with everything you might need, I opted to buy individual parts basically because I wanted to install the drain hose instead of the drain pipe extension that came with the kits that I found. There are various kits out there, but I didn’t see any that came with a drain hose.
So the parts that I used are:
Threaded nipple for oil filter - John Deere #MIU13767
Oil filter - Briggs & Stratton #492932S
Briggs & Stratton hose connector #796532
Briggs & Stratton drain hose #594200
According to the JD dealer, they will not cover the warranty after changing the quick-change oil
system unless it is done by a JD dealer. Once the two warranties are gone, it doesn't matter.
That’s interesting, do you have a link to any documentation by JD that spells that out?
After a quick search on the subject, I saw that one parts dealer sells what they claim is a JD authorized conversion kit and also says that it doesn’t void the warranty (link below).
www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Easy-Change-Conversion-Kit-AUC12916-KIT.html
I also found a JD Frequently Asked Questions About JD Warranty page that states what is not covered under warranty. The third line says Those altered or modified in unapproved ways (link below).
www.deere.com/assets/pdfs/common/parts-and-service/warranty-protection-plans/WarrantyFAQ.pdf
So I guess it hinges on how JD looks at it. Let me know if you see confirmation from JD on the subject. Beyond that, one could always put the original quick change parts back on the engine if warranty repairs were needed. I did save everything from the conversion and my two years will be up later this summer. One could wait to do a conversion until the warranty has expired if they wanted to be sure, but I would be surprised to encounter a problem in that time frame when maintained properly. Interesting stuff though!
Update:
I looked further on the parts dealer add for their conversion kit (first link above). The third review for the kit by a purchaser says that they contacted JD before purchasing and was told by JD that it would not void the warranty. 🤷
@@DIYBoomers I just repeated what a mechanic at the local dealer said. No, did not bother to research it since the engine in my new E170 quit running after 10hrs and I had to have a new engine put in and told the dealer to put the conversion kit on it.
@krazyj1957 Wow, it sounds like it all depends on who you ask. Makes me wonder if all JD dealers treat it all the same way.
That’s no good, engine failure after 10 hrs. Did they tell you what the problem was? Hopefully that was all paid for.
Thanks, I'm going to change my 130 oil conversion kit. Did you buy the kit at John Deere?
You’re welcome. No. Although you can find conversion kits with everything you might need, I opted to buy individual parts basically because I wanted to install the drain hose instead of the drain pipe extension that came with the kits that I found. There are various kits out there, but I didn’t see any that came with a drain hose.
So the parts that I used are:
Threaded nipple for oil filter - John Deere
#MIU13767
Oil Filter - Briggs & Stratton #492932S
Briggs & Stratton hose connector #796532
Briggs & Stratton drain hose #594200
The JD quarter turn type filter looks very simple and has more capacity than the Briggs. Why did you swap?
Didn’t like the fact that the quick change leaves half of the dirty oil in the engine every time to mix with half new oil. John Deere says that the quick change filter is a better filter but just doesn’t seem like good maintenance to me.
There are vids on YT showing the quick change filter cut open. Guess what. The oil filter inside the quick change filter is no bigger than the small one you screw on as the old style. Besides you don’t even remove 1/2 the dirty oil using the quick change filter.
Yeah, I was never too thrilled with the whole idea.
Interesting drain plug. Wonder how that will hold up over time with the constant tension upwards on it. At least the fitting is metal.
The Briggs & Stratton drain hose is made for use with Briggs & Stratton engines. It’s a very durable rubber hose. We had a Craftsman tractor for over 10 years before this JD S130, and the Briggs & Stratton engine on the old Craftsman came stock from the factory with a Briggs and Stratton oil drain hose on it, which we never had any issues with.
@@DIYBoomersthank you. I’m planning on take care of some conversions to this kit for customers I have and will certainly consider this option. I Appreciate the detail in the video and quick reply!
@@SendItBilly No problem, you’re welcome! Yeah, I like it. I’m sure the rigid pipe drains do a good enough job for avoiding oil spill, but I just like the convenience of the hose.
Any thoughts on Briggs drain tube part 1723165SM instead ?
Looks like it would do the job. Also a bit cheaper than buying Briggs & Stratton drain hose 594200 and the oil drain plug.
I had never seen that hose, and I can’t seem to find any info on which engines it fits, I would check that first. Another consideration is that there is no clip fastened to it like the one on 594200. That clip secures the hose to the bracket on the Briggs & Stratton engines that is specifically designed for that purpose. Without that clip, you’d have to figure out a way to secure the hose. Other than that, it looks like a good hose.
@@DIYBoomerson Amazon it lists the Briggs engine it’s compatible with. Looks like the non drain end is threaded so screws into the engine at the oil drain hole. I did an oil change on a Cub cadet with this type of tube was much easier. A kubota had a plastic valve that you put an .5” ID tube on then removed after it drained. All seem better than the Deere pre load and. Single bolt drain which pours everywhere.
Lots of options.
Just got my S130. I really like the conversion. Will this void the JD warranty?
On a previous comment, I did a search on the topic and found a parts dealer that sells what they claim is a John Deere authorized conversion kit and also says that it does not void the warranty. (See link below)
www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Easy-Change-Conversion-Kit-AUC12916-KIT.html
Also on that site, look at the third review of the conversion kit where the purchaser says that he contacted John Deere before he bought the kit and was told by John Deere that it would not void the warranty.
So I can’t say for certain, but it sure sounds like it would not void the warranty. You may want to confirm that with John Deere to be sure.
Thanks.. Ordering today!
You’re welcome. Now just fyi, the kit on greenpartstore comes with the rigid pipe oil drain like many others are using for draining the oil. I ordered individual parts so that I could use the long Briggs & Stratton rubber oil drain hose that gives you better control for draining the oil. So if you like that feature, you may want to purchase individual parts. I listed all the parts that I used down in the description on the video. Good luck with your project!
Of course, you can get the John Deere or Briggs & Stratton oil filters locally so that you don’t have to order that.
Please list the parts in the description.
Yes, they’re listed now, should have done that earlier.
Has anyone noticed the new Easy Peel paint , comes off quickly after one to two years of regular use.
Sad J D, i guess china has never heard of primer paint.
Haven’t had any problems yet. Don’t really care for the new green deck color scheme though. Ours is yellow.
Will Teflon tape work as well as the locktite?
Good question. A quick search on the topic turns up a couple things. Looks like Teflon tape is used by some on small engine plugs.
Surprisingly, they say that Teflon tape is actually a lubricant, and not a sealant. However, it is used to prevent leaking by clogging the threads where it is installed.
Even though Teflon tape will not dissolve in oil or gas, I would be concerned with the possibility of strips of the tape slicing off the plug as it is being tightened and entering the crankcase. Click the link below and scroll down the article to watch the video which shows that actually happening. Personally, I don’t think that I would take that chance. It’s your decision, but I would recommend researching further before doing it. 😊
www.mcnallyinstitute.com/is-teflon-tape-ok-for-engine-oil-drain-plug/
@@DIYBoomers To further that point, lock tite is designed to dry up and "lock" the threads, to prevent bolts or nuts "in this case an oil fitting" from backing out due to vibration inherent in the engine operation while in use.
@@Novagunner Good point!
How much oil on the refill? Briggs part number for the drain hose? **The Briggs stuff is 2x's the price of the OEM**
Around 2 quarts for the refill. The Briggs & Stratton drain hose is #594200. What Briggs equipment is 2x the OEM cost?
@@DIYBoomers John deere filter $9cdn (briggs is $18cdn), Oil tube is $12cdn (briggs $34cdn)
@@GorillamansGarage Wow! Too bad you can’t get U.S. prices. $9 - $10 for the Briggs filter and the drain hose is $19.
Of course you have to figure in the exchange rate of 1 U.S. dollar = 1.28 Canadian so that makes up a little of the difference. But if you can get the John Deere equipment for the same as the U.S. pricing, that sounds like a good deal to me if I’m looking at it correctly.
@@DIYBoomers : Yes... Ironic isn't it? OEM prices are cheaper than off brand ones :D
One thing I don’t like and noticed that one of the fuel delivery hoses is rubbing against the valve cover of the engine! This is not only a fire only bad for the hose because continued rubbing against the valve cover will wear the hose out. What’s John Deere’s recommendation?
My tractor has 24 Hp twin cylinders engine.
Good question. I’m going to have to take a look at that.
A good back up plan for that, as well as, to prevent fuel from dumping into the cylinders or valves from a carb float needle seat failure or fuel pump failure, is to install a manual shut off valve behind the fuel filter. This also makes changing the fuel filter easier without gas pouring out.
Just remember to turn it off after using and on before using. Lol
@mbcarbaugh78 Yes, I’ve given it some thought about doing that. Good idea!
@@DIYBoomers it's definitely worth a thought. Two years ago I actually had that carb issue happen with my GT225. So much gas drained into the cylinder that pure fuel flew out of the exhaust on start up when I went to mow. I was lucky it didn't hydrolock with fuel. I did have some gas drain through the valves into the crank case and had to change the oil and filter. After a carb rebuild I installed a manual shut off to prevent it from happening again. That was three years ago.
The shut off valves and hose clamps are cheap, easy to install and can provide insurance from future issues if used correctly. I don't consider it a modification, but it's actually the first thing I'm doing to my S130 when I get it, aside from the Easy change filter delete.
I'm not sure if that voids the warranty. But it's worth the peace of mind and can be reversible if done with a little extra fuel line between the filter and shut off valve.
But, that's just my two cents of advice.
@mbcarbaugh78 Wow! No doubt, it’s cheap insurance.
I can't understand what John Deere was thinking when they came up with the 30 minute oil change. It only changes 0.8 qt. of oil and leaves 1.20 qts. in the engine. That's not good. I have the changover kit on order for my new S160 J.D. Mower.
Yeah, it really makes you wonder. I’d really like to have a look into the future to see how it ends up working out for them.
I think John Deere was trying to get those owners that never change oil, to at least change the filter and part of the oil, if they made it easy enough.
I recently did the same mod. You took great care not to make a mess when pulling off the EZ Filter adapter. But, now every oil change you’ll have a messy filter cartridge to deal with. So will I but a few extra paper towels and it’s no big deal for me.
Absolutely. I think it’s the lesser of two evils.
And he'll happily deal with it while enjoying the significan savings over the rip off Easy Change oil canister. Some EZ change for John Deere.
@@DIYBoomers Not even close. Conversion to conventional system , EZ FTW!
GOOD ONE! Very clever, absolutely some easy change for them.
@@DIYBoomers Early when JD made the change to the "Easy Change" system read it in the comments section. Loved it, so I adopted (stole) it. It is true.
JUST A THOUGHT COULDN'T YOU JUST SUCK OUT THE OIL FROM ENGINE AND STILL USE THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER? YES I KNOW YOU WOULD STILL HAVE TO BUY THE QUICK CHANGE FILTER AND ADDITIONAL OIL.
Sure, you could certainly do that. It would definitely eliminate having dirty oil left in the engine but the difference in cost is something to consider. The easy change and extra oil will run you over $60, whereas the conventional oil change will run you around $20.
I thought the 30 second oil change was a good feature, why are people converting it to conventional. Planning to buy S130 should I instead go for S100 that comes with conventional oil change. Also S100 has mechanical blade engage vs S130 that has electronic one, which is a better system. Thanks in advance
On the surface, the 30 second oil change seems like a great idea, especially for those that can’t, or don’t want to do a conventional oil change. The cost is much more for the 30 second oil change. The question that remains to be seen is, will the new method do an adequate job of maintaining the engine? The S130 holds around 2 quarts of oil. The 30 second filter leaves approximately 1 quart of old oil in the crankcase while replacing the other 1 quart with new oil. John Deere claims that the new filter is an improved design over the conventional filter. So anyway, some, including me, just don’t like the idea of leaving half of the dirty oil in the engine at every oil change. Time will tell, we’ll see how that works out.
The manual vs the electric PTO is another preferential debate. I don’t have a strong preference. I needed a new tractor in the middle of last summer when there weren’t many to be had in my area. Was lucky enough to stumble across a local dealer that had just received 2 S130s the day that I called and didn’t expect any more deliveries the rest of the summer. The S130 was the size, cost and features that I was mostly looking for.
From what I’ve read, the manual version requires more adjustment over time and wears more on belts than the electric. Haven’t heard that one lasts any longer than the other, but the electric is more expensive to replace.
Check out this video that outlines the differences in the S100 line.
th-cam.com/video/nK8A9vApoSg/w-d-xo.html
The S100 has a low cut back on the seat. The S130 has a two piece higher back.
The S100 is a 17.5 HP one cylinder, the S130 is a 22 HP two cylinder.
The S130 has a much wider rear tire and comes with a front bumper.
The S100 has a mechanical float gas gauge down below the front of seat, the S130 has an electronic readout gas gauge on the dash.
And of course, the oil change difference and the manual vs electric PTO.
Good luck in your decision making!
How much oil is needed after this conversion is completed?
If the oil has been completely drained, the refill is going to be around 2 quarts.
Thanks!!
👍
This is a no brainer. The 30 second oil change system is flawed. Both by price and effectiveness
Yup, sure seems to be the case. It really makes me wonder.
Given how far B&S engine quality & durability have fallen over the past 20 years, only removing half the dirty oil seems like a sure fire way to have customers coming back every 5 years for a new mower because their current mower engine has blown up.
Add to that the very high cost of that filter, it is a big win/win for JD. Not so much for the consumer.
Yes, absolutely!
I find the development of the easy oil change system very interesting. That they are only putting it in a very small portion of their mowers, makes me wonder if it is actually as good, or any better than the conventional method. I suppose it could be strictly a marketing plan to attract buyers that can’t or don’t want to do the conventional oil change.
I guess time will tell. If five years from now, the easy change is not more widely used, I would be inclined to think it is the latter.
J D paint is like a Navel Orange, Easily Peels off after a year or two of use.
Great paint job John Deere.
Your mass production has truly killed one of the Greatest Names " John Deere" I guess thanks China!!!
Quality has left the station.
Sad, another American product destroyed by overseas production costs.
@tedr.richardson4655 That doesn’t sound good. Haven’t had any problems with mine yet. I see they have changed the deck color to green. Don’t really care for that.
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I'm guessing you don't have any metric tools 😂. For some reason this American machine uses metric nuts and bolts. The acception I noticed was the blade nuts. Great video though! Thank you
Thanks! I have bought a few metric tools, but only when necessary. I needed a set of metric Allen wrenches so I got those and I did get a small set of 1/4” drive sockets. Holding out though as long as I can just for the principal of it. 😎
You should add a fuel shutoff before your fuel filter.
Haven’t changed the filter yet but that’s not a bad idea.
@@DIYBoomers yeah you don't really have to dick around draining the fuel over the winter really if you keep the mower inside and use fuel stabilizer or ethanol free then, just close the shutoff with it running and let the mower die.
@@karatejoe5049 Just might do that. With my old Craftsman, the gas tank was up front under the hood where it was easier to empty before letting it run until dying. The tank on the John Deere is inside the chassis under the seat.
Like everything else, there are different schools of thought on winter storage. In the past, I usually have drained the carb on all machines by letting them run dry. After reading up on the leaving the treated gas alone debate, last winter I treated the gas and let it sit without draining it. Some think that it is better than letting things dry out. As long as stabilizer is used, it doesn’t sound like a bad idea.
Buy yourself a set of tools...Dewalt full set for $100 at Costco.
Sounds good. Couldn’t find the deal online, what’s included? We don’t have a local Costco. We have everything else, but no local Costco. Absolutely like Dewalt however, I have a few of the 20v battery tools.
I can't believe John Deere would put such stuff on there mowers. $50.00 bucks for a 10.00 dollar oil change.
Yeah, it will be interesting to see if they continue with it over time, between the high price and the possibility of shortening the engine life.
30-second easy change filters a bunch of crap, oil still stays in the engine and you still have to add oil, that crap filters are filling up landfills. conversions lot better to put the small filter on.
Yeah, it really makes you wonder.
I sometimes wonder if John Deere knows or cares about the sales they are losing due to this easy change system. Dumbest thing ever. Helpful video tho thanks.
You’re welcome. Yeah, it sure does make you wonder. It’ll be interesting to see if they stick with it.
This easy oil change thing is nonsense - JD engineers should be ashamed-- I have been working on lawn equipment for over 60 years- I would never own a JD
Yes, it is nonsense. In your 60+ years of experience, what’s the best lawn tractor?
@@DIYBoomers I stick with the old makes 15 years or older- mtd or toro
mtd - easy to work on- parts are cheap
John deere is just creating new ways to make more money off their customers
Without a doubt, like any other company, they are always looking for ways to increase their market share. IMO, they’re probably looking at attracting buyers that can’t, or don’t want to do normal oil changes.
However, it certainly makes me wonder about the long term effects on engines that continually operate with 50% to 100% dirty oil.
Good video but I wouldn't own a John deere lawn or garden tractor both are garden straight up overpriced overrated garbage..
Wow. I guess everyone has their own preferences. Which brands do you favor for reasonable cost and quality?
I have a 4 year old E120 with 90 hours on it that still looks and runs like new.
Yeah, for this price range of lawn tractors, I don’t see anything out there that is better quality and more reliable.
Now an oil change will cost $15 instead of $40.
Actually, $40 in savings (in my area). The quick change canister is $55 at Home Depot and $56 at Lowes.