Ender 3 Pro auto off with cool down - simple!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 เม.ย. 2020
- IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE THIS MODIFICATION, PLEASE READ
If you're not competent doing AC electrical work by insulating conductors and routing wires, educate yourself! I've been doing DIY electrical, among other construction trades for decades. This is an easy improvement if you know how to safely work with simple AC electrical circuits. Essentially, this mod turns off the power to the power supply unit after the hot end cools. It is a simple way to shut off power to your Ender 3/Pro for very little cash. The Ender 3 would likely require a different design for the switch mount. There is a video where that was done and didn't require changing the bed bolt. Probably can be adapted to many other models of printer. All parts needed for this improvement are linked below.
DISCLAIMER: If you aren't confident in your ability to accomplish this task, you can always try a less simple way to achieve a similar result. If you do this mod, please make a video, the safety nannies will then have someone else to nag and accuse of the destruction of all humanity.
WARNING: If you do not possess the basic skills to:
*Purchase a properly rated switch and wire (as described in video and linked below).
*Disconnect all power while performing this modification.
*Use electricians tools to cut and strip wires and to crimp or solder on connectors.
*Safely use a lighter to shrink heat shrink insulation.
*Safely route wires to prevent injury to yourself or damage to the wires themselves.
*Finally, if you can't follow simple instructions, don't attempt this. There are plenty of videos to show you how if you're in doubt of your capabilities.
All of this is based on ideas I've found in other youtube videos. I obtained the G-code changes from another video (see link below) and then remixed them so they would actually function. Below is the End G-code that I found useful for this to work as desired on my Creality Ender 3 Pro. It lifts the hotend after completion of the print and the fan continues to blow as it always does. The X axis does not move to the left as usual. After the hot end cools to 40C, it moves the X axis as usual and presents the print to the front and stops. It disables the usual 3 stepper motors as always. Below is the last paragraph and following line of End G-code in Ultimaker Cura 4.5.0 You can pass on what is already present in your machine settings and just enter the changes. Be sure to make changes to a COPY of your machine settings and give it another name. I used “Creality Ender-3 Auto Off”
Inspirational video • Creality Ender 3 Auto ...
_________________________________________________________________________________________________
G-CODE CHANGES
The following can be entered into Cura 4.5 under printer name/manage printers/highlight printer name/machine settings/end G-code
End G-code (last paragraph)
AFTER THIS LINE:
G90 ;Absolute positioning
CHANGE THE G-CODE TO THIS:
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M109 R40; Wait for the hotend to cool to 40C
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
_________________________________________________________________________________________________
MATERIALS
Needed Items:
Micro switches (1)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Screws (#4 x ¾ sheet metal screws to mount micro switch to base)
www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-4-x-...
Washers (4mm below above screws, not needed with use of printable switch cover)
www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-10-C...
T-Nuts (2-4M or print from link in printables section below)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Screws (2-4M x 8mm long to attach switch base to rail with T-nuts)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Socket head cap screw (1-5M x 35 for micro switch trigger)
www.amazon.com/iExcell-Stainl...
Cord (about 2 ft of 18/2 lamp cord, I used black)
www.amazon.com/GE-54435-Repla...
Push connectors (minimum 3 female, 1 male)
www.amazon.com/Baomain-Insula...
Heat shrink tubing (3/16 diameter)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
PRINTABLES
T-nuts
www.thingiverse.com/thing:168...
OR
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Cable clips
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
BE SURE TO PRINT AND INSTALL THE COVER OVER THE SWITCH AS SHOWN IN THE BEGINNING
VIDEO SEGMENT
Switch mount and cover
www.thingiverse.com/thing:429... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
This worked great!!!! Itll be nice to wake up to finished prints and a printer that is OFF. Thanks for making and sharing this! Posted a make and liked it on Thingi already too! lol
It's great to occasionally read about a make following my idea. I'm glad it worked for you too. No one who reported making it has mentioned a failure, yet. Thanks for the info.
I find it a bit dangerous with live wires direct in front of the printer. Normally this should close a 5 or 12v Relais which shuts of the 110v or 220v.
With my covering all contacts with heat-shrink tubing AND using the printed cover which isn't shown in place in the video, I would have to shove a grounded scalpel behind the cover and dig around until contact is made. In other words, I CAN'T make physical contact with any conductors without intentionally using tools. I hope this alleviates your concerns.
Great idea. Thumbs up!
Neat and efficient, thanks for sharing !
Works for me, why not others? That's why I do my videos.
Can you share the stls of the mods you've made to the printer please? Nice video
Great design!
Glad you like it.
Cheers Steve, works brilliantly. Now I can leave a print going knowing it will switch the whole thing off👍
🏃🏼♂️🏃🏼♂️🏃🏼♂️🏃🏼♂️ running to my pc to design, print and install this on my printer.
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
Glad you like it. Be sure to comment about your results.
@@stevemullens7937 I copied your design and added it to my Anycubic mega 2.0 3d printer. It works great and I will probably do a video about it and share all that I used to get it working.
Thanks for sharing 👍
@@thelastdon4664 Great! Glad to read your comment. Be sure to come back and post a link to your video when you do it!
Awesome job, gonna use this idea for sure!
good job! i've done this too thanks for tutorial!
So, I'm not the only one. Thanks!
Great work. Regards
Thank you!
Thank you for this
Hope you got something out of it.
Hello again. The brakes you use for the bed levelling wheels, I can't find them anywhere.
Did you make them?
Hello, I found them on the cults web site. cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/heavy-duty-ender-3-bed-leveling-wheel-detent-clips (they cost 73 cents) I use them together with my modifications to the leveling screws. I used a small lock washer and a nut on each screw to prevent the screws from turning and then the above detent clips to keep the adjuster wheels from turning. Make sure the lock washers are between the bed heater elements on the under side of the bed. There is a gap between the elements for the screws to pass through. This keeps the bed secured, but doesn't prevent misalignment due to other causes. I also use the bed leveling g-code that is linked in one of the CHEP videos, very useful. th-cam.com/video/_EfWVUJjBdA/w-d-xo.html
Very simple and ingenuitive. Thank you
If it's simple, I can probably do it!
Hi, I redesigned the mount and cover to work on an ender 3 v2 using your original design and parts. Would you suggest that I get on Thingiverse in some fashion? If so is there a tutorial on the process? Would it be added to yours as a remix or posted as itself with reference to yours as it's basis? Thanks
I imagine you can do it either way. Thingiverse postings are pretty easy. You'll figure it out. Good luck!
Great job. I’m new to this and wonder do you have the machine shut down between smaller prints or do you change the g-code depending on print time?
If I'm doing several small jobs consecutively, I will try to remove everything from the bed while it is cooling and then start the next job. Of course, all of the projects would have to be on the memory card at the same time. If the jobs are small enough, you can load more than one into the slicing program to print at the same time! As to changing the g-code, when you make the new code changes, you can save the new version under a new name and choose between saved g-code profiles for different desired ending actions. I always use the auto off, since I rarely have more than one project going at a time and they are often several hours long. Hope this helps.
Absolutely great Tidy idea,I'm sure this would be ideal for the CR6SE?
I imagine something could be made to work. I'm not at all familiar with any other machine but the Ender 3 Pro. You would have to be sure that the electrical components are viable with the power levels of that machine and you would likely have to design your own printable parts to make it work. A little ingenuity is all it takes. Be sure to err on the side of safety with anything electrical. Contrary to a few nannies who commented before, I did just that. Thanks for watching.
@@stevemullens7937 I'm running a night print that will finish about 4am,I'm up at 6am but would love to have the printer switch off after its cooled down 👍 Something to look into for sure
@@richiekaye1103 That's exactly why I looked for a solution. Good luck.
Thank you !
You're welcome!
Going to order parts I'm the morning, this is awesome! I hate waking up to a finished print and printer still running. I am VERY new to 3d printing, the ender 3 is my first machine, and I've printed a couple dozen things, most being parts for the printer. I wasn't aware you were supposed to cool down the machine after a print before you shut power off, how important is this? Have I been damaging parts of my machine just turning it off? I have zero idea how to edit gcode to let it cool down, but will be figuring it out soon and Installing this mod!
The G-code changes are listed in the description. I use Cura and it's probably the same with the newest version. Good luck.
mybe it wont be an issue,but its more safe if u use relay to cut off the power,anyway love your ender setup
Technically, I suppose it is safer to have 5V DC in the switch wires, but if you do it safely as I did in this video, there will be no problem unless something cuts the insulation, or hits the switch hard enough to damage it. Still, look at where the wires are and the fact that they do not move at all. The entire modification is protected by the bed nearly always and when not, it is only momentarily when printing close to the front of the bed. My point after being bothered by so many about this is: If you do it like I did and you're not an idiot, there is virtually no way to get hurt. If you still can't believe that it is safe, don't do it. The point of the modification is to have the desired effect, and do it SIMPLY.
great execution, thanks for sharing!
Glad you like it. I didn't want to tear my PSU apart again to explain how I made it optional via a three position switch. I'm a little too lazy to repeat my work when I don't have to!
@@stevemullens7937 everybody with basic knowledge of electricity understand your explanation. Waiting for the 250v 20a micro switch and im ready to go thanks to your explanation. Only got 1a micro switches laying about.
@@CheckitOutYaw Be sure to relate your results.
Thanks Steve...it works flawlessly, good job...
Glad to see that someone else successfully used my method. Thanks
This is genius for turning off the hotend fan. Plus nobody can whine about it being AC ;)
This turns off the entire machine after the hotend cools. But, as you can read in the comments, people have "whined" about it being AC powered. They claim that is is dangerous because it isn't DC running through the lamp cord. The last two words of the previous sentence should say it all. Thanks for the compliment.
How is this not switching line voltage?
What's going on with the bed levelling screws? I'd be interested to see a video on that if you have time.
Done! Not the best video, but then none of mine are! th-cam.com/video/lRUBTAt4dYA/w-d-xo.html
What a fab vid Thank you but can I ask when the printer has stopped is the print head meant to stop on the print it has just dun or should it move up a little
It does move up around 20 mm. Watch the very beginning of the video again and you will see the movement.
@@stevemullens7937 thanks was doing a long replay then it hit me i have cura 4.8.0 BUT the rest of it works fab have been looking for something like this for some time
@@theweepinghunter Let me know if you do it and how it works for you!
@@stevemullens7937 Got it to work did not read your info prop so delete the last paragraph and put yours in. Did it in word 1st so did not mess it up so my G Code reads
(original code)
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning
( your code)
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M109 R40; Wait for the hotend to cool to 40C
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
(original code)
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
@@theweepinghunter Sounds like you got it to work. Great!
My bed goes backwards after the print is done. I'm using OctoPrint but it was doing it before too. Anyone know a fix?
Edit: I found the G-code for the "end G-code" printer setting to push it forwards:
G91
G1 F1800 E-3
G1 F3000 Z10
G90
G1 X0 Y220 F1000 ; prepare for part removal
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors
M117 printed @ 1mm.
I would rather use a relay to handle the mains with the micro-switch just having a dc voltage, no doubt Marlin will have a spare function that can be employed to switch a relay, upon completion of the print
And how is that simple? ;-)
@@stevemullens7937 It isn't it's just safer
@@AndrewAHayes I've had lamp cords near me for nearly 60 years and I have yet to be electrocuted. There is zero movement of the cord. I think this will be fine for anyone who takes care to insulate and shield any potential contact points-as I have. The shield I made (downloadable print) isn't shown installed for the sake of clarity, but it is shown in the video and that, with the heat shrink tubing on every conductive surface makes this very safe. As I stated in a comment below, I would have to jam a sharp, grounded object behind the shield to cause a short. I am "simply" not worried. Nor is anyone required to duplicate my work. Did you send comments to the guys who wired toggle switches to the TOPs of their machines with exactly the same circuit to be switched after running the gantry to the top of the Z axis? There are a few. You've got work to do. Thanks for watching.
@@stevemullens7937 I said I would rather have a relay, that doesn't mean you or anyone else has to
@@AndrewAHayes Sorry, I'm used to nannies attacking me for one thing or another. Thought it was happening again. My bad.
Hey, does this solution work on regular Ender3? Is there any difference electricity wise worth to consider?
I have never seen one in person, but the Pro version is just a slightly modified Ender 3, the electrical aspects are probably identical. Check your labels/documentation if you already own one. If not, the price difference is probably worth it for the beefier Y-rail and the protected electronics vent. Hope this is helpful.
Turns out that the Ender 3 would probably need a different switch mount than shown here. As stated in the description, there is a video showing the same idea for an Ender 3 that doesn't require a different bed screw. Lousy video, but not a bad idea, check it out.
worked great i love it, it feels some what safer leaving it over night now
That's exactly why I researched the idea on TH-cam and modified what I saw to make it as simple and cheap as I could while still keeping it safe. I recently saw another video which made the g-code changes WAY simpler and just added a time delay before presenting the print which made just one line of additional code necessary. But my version works too, so no need to change it again! If I can find that video again, I'll link it in the description above and make a note of that guys g-code change to make it even simpler!
My other reply about the "simpler g-code change" disregard. I tried it and the hotend didn't cool down. The code I listed above is still the way to go!
What happens if you are printing something which will require the full available length of the Y axis? The printer will shut off mid print. I suggest putting the switch slightly out of bounds, to allieviate this.
Unless the print is square, use the X axis for that dimension. Notice in the title the word "simple", also notice in the video, the rear-most part of the power supply has labels that read AUTO OFF and NORMAL. I wired in an ON-OFF-ON rocker switch to bypass this improvement should I ever feel the need and to date I haven't! Essentially, connect the wires to and from the micro switch to each other via another switch that will connect the two wires directly when switched ON. Just make sure the amperage rating is high enough for your voltage. I didn't think it would be "simple" to show this feature because I used a switch that I could barely fit in the chosen spot and didn't want to encourage others to possibly damage parts of their power supply. A simple (there's that word again) toggle switch could be used and installed into the wiring box at the bottom of the power supply to defeat this auto off feature, just realize that the micro switch will cycle on and off every time the Y axis extends fully which would wear out the switch prematurely. Obviously, there are other solutions as well. I hope this was helpful.
The switch I used was like this, but wired differently than described. www.amazon.com/Twidec-Position-Toggle（Quality-Assurance-Years）KCD1-5-103/dp/B07MV5K2JV
Something like this could be used as described. www.amazon.com/APIELE-Position-Rocker-Toggle-KCD1-5-101/dp/B08DKCJK6K
Or this. www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-18-Heavy-Duty-Electrical/dp/B00004WLKC
@@stevemullens7937 I've just mounted a mechanical linkage out of bounds. The Y on my printer can normally go from 0 to 220, and ive set my gcode so that at the end of all prints, the Y axis pushes on the mechanical linkage at around 225 (out of normal printing bounds), and the mechanical linkage leads to the printer's original power switch, turning it off.
@@londonnight937 Cool. Make a video and post a link in these comments. I'd like to see it!
@@londonnight937 In addition to what I wrote in response above, I believe that when the print is presented, the bed moves PAST the outer limit of the print area and the micro switch can be placed to turn the machine off just at that point or a couple of mm before that ultimate distance. Be sure to make that linkage video and post a link in these comments.
@@stevemullens7937 I've uploaded a video showing my setup, on my channel. Tell me what you think about it :)
Just to be clear, in no way I'm saying your setup isn't good :)
I think this is a great idea and plan to do it the only problem i have is as i use prusalicer so i take it i would go into printer settings and then custom gcode and then in the end g code box if this is correct my last line of code is M84 ; disable motors so do i add your code after this line ?many thanks for you time
Essentially the last paragraph is rearranged and one line added. The last line remains the same. If I knew a way to add a photo to the description or send one to a commenter, I would do that to show how easy it actually is. You may have to interpret this to fit the Prusa comment choices. Most of the information after the semi-colons is, I believe, just a description of the action caused by the code. Good luck with your project!
ORIGINAL END g-code MODIFIED END g-code
G90 ;Absolute positioning ------------------------------------------ CHANGES BELOW THIS LINE ------------------------ G90 ;Absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M109 R40; Wait for the hotend to cool to 40C
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
Hi man, I'm testing your design for the first time right now! I bought a switch that is rated for 5 amp at 230 volts, wich in theory can handle 230*5= 1150 watts, is it right? My printer is an ender 3 v2 with a power consumption of 350 watts.
Your math seems sound. My Ender 3 Pro claims 270 Watts of power usage and your switch should handle that easily. Be sure that the wire you use can handle it as well. Which ever wire size is claimed on your power cord, probably 1mm diameter or .8 mm cross sectional area should be the size wire you use if not a little bigger. You should probably check that yourself, I'm not familiar with metric wire sizing systems. Be sure to make a video about it and post a link so I can see it! Thanks for watching.
@@stevemullens7937 here in Italy we usually have 1mm^2 or 1.6mm^2 wire section . They can handle 10 and 16 amps, so I used the 1mm^2 one wich is enough.
@@lorenzoaccetta3618 Looks like you've got it all figured out. It would be great if you posted a video about your success or failure, or maybe posted a make on thingiverse. Be sure to print and install the safety cover for the switch. Enjoy!
@@stevemullens7937 I will post a make on thingiverse👍
@@lorenzoaccetta3618 I'll check back once in a while to see.
This solution is unsafe. A very large chance getting shocked. What’s the current rating for the micro switch? These are usually mean for low voltage DC.
Guaranteed, I have a 0% chance, because I'm not an idiot. Some may be, but if people are careful (not stupid), they'll be fine as well. If you had watched and listened to the entire video, you'd know that the switches are rated for well above the needed capacity.
He could have used a low voltage relay to switch the line voltage in a listed device, yet no.
I have an ender 3 v2, will this fit ?Thanks
I'm sure that is could be made to work. I don't know, however, if the switch mounting location uses the same 40x40 extrusion. I can't find any photos online that show it well. Good luck.
Have you moded the sd card slot ?
I designed a mount for a micro SD to full size SD card adapter. It can be found at this link with some info. I hope you like it. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4334646
@@stevemullens7937 looks good,i ll try it thanks
can you show us how to change the g-code into file.. to the newbie!!
I'm sure there are videos showing how to do that. I've tried to make it fairly understandable in the description text, look it over. It's really just moving one line to the end and typing another line of instruction. The description is so full of stuff because of all of the complaining nannies that there isn't any more space! I did the changes in Cura, it may be different in other slicers. Good luck
Quite dangerous. Better to use a relay to switch the load instead.
Everything is stationary, I can't even TOUCH a conductor without using a sharp tool to cut insulation. I've made dozens of individual prints since I did this mod and praise Jesus! I'm still alive! It's only dangerous for people who can't follow directions or are quite stupid. Do it the "safe" way if you like. Feel free to download my parts and be sure to post a video.
@@stevemullens7937 and when you have an overload situation?
@@dragonstuff1983 First, I can't imagine what would cause that, but I suppose that the power supply would stop working with or without this improvement. Since all this does is interrupt current TO the power supply, not FROM it when the print is finished, you've alerted me to another danger. Seems that the power switch on the PSU would somehow also need to be a relay, since it's in the same circuit. After all, there is a power cord plugged into the wall outlet and 120V/4A can kill! Seems awfully dangerous to me. You should contact Meanwell about this situation.
@@stevemullens7937 The power switch for the power supppy is rated for the current and completely within the bounds of the NEC and UL.
@@dragonstuff1983 As is the micro switch used for this mod. Just watch the video and see what is SHOWN and said. Mic drop!
Great solution. For the nay Sayers: you're the reason for warning labels. Just sayin'
I can't argue with that!