I follow so many youtube channels about 3d printers. Most of them is about hardware and firmware tweaks in order to get good quality prints. They use expensive hardwares, upgrades etc. But you, sir, always have good cura tricks for the same goal and it's awesome. It's free, it's practical and I appreciate that!
Biggest upgrade you can make is firmware tweaks after that. Go look into linear advance etc to improve quality at high speeds above like 70mm/s for walls (meaning 140mm/s with stock cura config), that way you can get an ender 3 to roughly 150mm/s, provided you have good enough cooling. Of course the model itself makes the biggest difference though.
@@FilamentFriday have a look into the fixed height bed spacers creality make there just incredible I haven't seen anyone post about them yet and they are way better and easier to level the bed do it once then check it my in 6 months only. Had one failed print since and because I run out of filament 🤙
WOOHOO! BuilderRedCross That's me. However I barely understood why the design worked. Totally Amazed at the Research you did on this model Chuck . Learned a lot. Thanks.
I'm new. I finally got my printer about 2 months ago now. Of course, I've been watching videos, and learning the ropes for several years now. There is still so much to learn, but I'm enjoying the learning process. It's different between watching the videos before, and after, getting a printer. Watching before getting a printer was generalized in my mind. Now that I have a printer to apply things too, it's much more specific. Much more detail oriented. Thank you for all the help, and sharing your wisdom with us.
For real though. I've been watching many different TH-camrs and read many articles but none of them helped me as much as CHEP and Makers Muse. They show a problem and FIX it.
That was EXCELLENT! I have to watch several times to understand what you did with the blocks…but very new information and thought process for me. Thank You!
i can't believe i didn't think about scaling the support blockers sooner lol. i've been using cura for like 2 years hahahaha. Well thanks, i guess you learn something new every day
Just fired up my first printer, and just started Cura. Everything might as well be in latin. This video is a huge motivator to look into Cura's print settings and more videos made by this channel
I usually don't bother with tips and tricks and just revert to cranking the pint speed as my printer can handle it but the infill wall multiplier is one that I saw from your videos that I have definitely kept as I find it really useful.
Some day...I'm going to devote a couple of full days just going through your videos on Cura and learning to do all these tricks. I always say, "Wow" at videos like this, but I never remember them when I need them. Need to make the techniques part of my normal wokflow so they stick in my head.
This is good stuff. I just ordered my 1st 3D printer, a Neptune 3 Pro and been looking at different videos. Definitely going to check out the rest of your videos as am sure it’ll help me learn more about printing.
This was really helpful. I like that you explain the issue, then got straight to the point and showed us how to do it. Neat tricks, I didn’t know how to do this before, and now I do! Thanks!
I didn't know how to to really use the support blocker until now. That adds a hole new level of flexibility when it comes to fine tuning settings for the model.
I'm new to 3d printing and your videos have been unbelievably helpful, including this one. Thanks for all your hard work. You make life easier for us newbs.
It's not Friday until it's Infilament Friday. Absolutely loved this week's video, Chuck. Just a great collection of tricks wrapped up in a lesson that will pay forwards at some point for many of us. Well done!
Thats a refreshing and clever way to use infill, never tought to do it like this. Also compliments the way you present it, clear and to the point unlike other channels who like to hear themself talk. You got a new subscriber.
If for some reason you really wanted the design to match perfectly, you could export a second arm that was just the "infill" portion you wanted to change. Line it up in Cura and use that to modify it to print as infill. I use that trick for things all the time when I want specific sections to print infill only but theyre irregularly shaped. The trick to getting it lined up easily is to put a super small of set line around the entire model.(kind of like a skirt) so small that cura doesnt try to print it, but that basically makes both models the same size so all you have to do to line it up is select them both and center it. If that makes sense.
@@Blissful_Soundscapes if you model something on your own then you put a pixel thin square around your item. So in case you want to split your model into two pieces Cura will judge the shape of it by that thin square instead of the shape of your model. The square stays the same so the two pieces will fit together. Without the square the different pieces will not align if you try to center them on your printer bed. Then you just select the infill model and set wall count and top/bottom layers to 0. btw I'm also trying to figure this thing out just as I read his comment, lol. I haven't even modelled anything yet.
Very smart use of slicer settings and infill pattern. This trick also simplify the modeling, you save time since you don't need to create the pattern, instead of that you rely on the slicer to do it for you. Another benefits, you can change the pattern without changing the model, and you can print a closed version. As said very smart, thank you for sharing.
Amazing! As a beginner, it's really inspiring to see how you can problem solve the design to make it print much faster. Great video and great tips! You have a subscriber.
Using same for long time in prusaslicer as well. Even one more trick - create international shape inside arm for example 3mm from walls and use it as modifier without top and bottom, but main part use regular settings. This will build arm with strong shell ( walls can be complex even) and internal part will have nice looking infill . See link below for example
I have a print I really need to do, and I don't need to worry about how it looks. This just took a 4hr 30m print, all the way down to 1hr 30m. I am so gonna be trying this with my other prints. It's a good way to prototype.
Pfft. Dude, infill is something anyone truely dedicated to 3D priting will know, its like not knowing how to format your ink print. You may not know this but ink printers all the way back to the 90's can print in different formats, making your image/text larger or smaller etc. The most basic of skills when it comes to printing. Fan speed, infill speed, nozzle temperature, supports, are all things you have to be familiar with to print usable things.
I love how your logic was "do this trick and it'll cut down x time" even though the time was also cut by the fact the second item was smaller. They added a new feature by the way, it's called lightening for infill. works like a charm if you're building something like a model or ornaments for a tree n such where you don't need them to be rock solid.
You can multiply the cube for the "per model settings" so you don't have to enter all your settings each time! It will save you another couple seconds! 😉
Nice collection of tips and tricks to save print time - I’d suggest to use the gyroid infill, at 20-30% infill rate but one line thickness it gives very strong parts w/ little time penalty. And it is nice to watch during printing and see on the parr ;)
Thanks Chuck, just in time, my next project was to print your spool holder!I will now do it with the revised settings and use the spare time for other projects.
Another nice advantage of this technique is that if you want to print a decorative pattern, you can try out different kinds of patterns very quickly, much faster than it would take to model them manually (albeit limited to the patterns available as infill patterns). I used it to print a long rectangle with a grid-pattern in the middle, that I could then wrap like a ring around another, cylindrical print, to make it look nicer :)
Watching these great videos and it occurs to me that it would be of value to have online courseware where learners worked through all these Cura tricks of yours and then, via repetition, developed an educational base long before burning time and money via actual prints.
Thanks for this share, brilliant as a newbie I really know nothing! Getting a tutorial into cura like this is a great way to breakdown barriers to newbies! Thanks again, excellent!
If you look at the internal pattern, it is made up of printed triangles. This means a lot of short movements and retractions. It also means a lot of joints between lines. If you model this layer by layer, with straight crossing lines, allowing for open spaces between the crossing lines, you get longer internal lines, that will bound like crazy due to gravity. It probably will print faster than the hack in this video, and probably be just as strong or stronger, depending on how you adjust it. It will look even more like the Eifel. In Cura, you need to model it for double walls for the pattern, as Cura do not slice single wall mesh gracefully. Also, Cura has performance issues with the modeling I propose here, it simply crashes if the model get medium size.
Yeah, definitely can use this trick to speed up.print times as well as make other changes like making portions of the object more solid. Really gonna have to give this a try! Thanks!
It's not really a trick. I mean, for a part like this 5 hours should be the max. Just because Cura says 9 hours doesn't mean that's the recommended print time for that item. In engineering, all of this would have been considered before it was ever opened in the slicer. I would have titled this video "Don't Trust the print time that Cura tells you".
It's a great tip Chuck. I'm using mostly Repetier host using Cura engine and it always prints quicker than any Cura version with the same settings. For example, DJI F450 arm prints in Repetier 2h44m, in Cura 3h58m.. And has similar structure to the filament arm you're showing here.
for simple, structural parts like this, "overprinting" with a much larger extrusion cross section, than one normally would, is also a nice option. with a normal 0.4mm nozzle it's easily possible to print with an extrusion of 0.4-0.6mm (yes, i am serious!) layer height by 1-1.2mm line width, as long as heat and speed are adjusted accordingly slow and hot. of course a bigger nozzle is an option too, but i was impressed just how far i could push it. with a slightly modified 0.4mm one, i could print up to a 0.75x2mm, before the lines turning into squiggles of spaghetti.
for fast low quality high strength prints you can also increase line width (only with flat tipped nozzles) so every layer is smeared on like butter but much wider and sturdier
It seems like the main speed benefit here comes from the infill speed being higher than perimeter speed. What if you print original design without slicer hacks, but with perimeter speed=infill speed?
I've got a longer lk4 and I spent a lot of time exporamenting early on to figure out tricks to get faster prints but these are things I hadn't thought of. Definitely going to be trying some of these tricks out.
Nice. My favorite "trick" is to bump my line thickness up from the default 0.4mm for a .4mm nozzle to 0.5mm or 0.6mm. Whether this is suitable or not depends on your part design, but this works nicely for many items.
@@FilamentFriday Sorry. You lost me. I know there is a line multiplier for infill, but I'm not familiar with "double line". But then there's a ton I don't know about Cura.
I follow so many youtube channels about 3d printers. Most of them is about hardware and firmware tweaks in order to get good quality prints. They use expensive hardwares, upgrades etc. But you, sir, always have good cura tricks for the same goal and it's awesome. It's free, it's practical and I appreciate that!
Glad I could help. To me it’s far more important to understand your slicer.
Biggest upgrade you can make is firmware tweaks after that. Go look into linear advance etc to improve quality at high speeds above like 70mm/s for walls (meaning 140mm/s with stock cura config), that way you can get an ender 3 to roughly 150mm/s, provided you have good enough cooling.
Of course the model itself makes the biggest difference though.
I’m so
Now this is an awesome tip! Gotta try this
I’m sure you’ll come up with some interesting designs. There are many other infills to play with.
Seriously, I'm just learning how to 3d print and don't know a quarter of the settings within Cura
@@Duskbreaker1780 it wont take you long to learn the setting's, just keep printing the more you print the better you will be
Indeed
@@FilamentFriday have a look into the fixed height bed spacers creality make there just incredible I haven't seen anyone post about them yet and they are way better and easier to level the bed do it once then check it my in 6 months only. Had one failed print since and because I run out of filament 🤙
I had no idea support blockers could be used to change any setting! That's so great! This will really help with my tiles.
WOOHOO! BuilderRedCross That's me. However I barely understood why the design worked. Totally Amazed at the Research you did on this model Chuck . Learned a lot. Thanks.
You did a great job. Thanks for sharing. I learned too.
I'm new. I finally got my printer about 2 months ago now. Of course, I've been watching videos, and learning the ropes for several years now. There is still so much to learn, but I'm enjoying the learning process. It's different between watching the videos before, and after, getting a printer. Watching before getting a printer was generalized in my mind. Now that I have a printer to apply things too, it's much more specific. Much more detail oriented. Thank you for all the help, and sharing your wisdom with us.
Thank you!
We all are glad to see you every friday. Just know that.
I do. Thanks.
Great tricks! Insane power and customization in Cura
Great Tip! I find myself looking at your vid's every time I have a problem. Thank you very much.
Holy Crap, i didn't know i can change all settings with blockers. That solves a lot of problems. Thanks a lot!
What would the new to 3D Printing people do without you Chep? Personally, you have been invaluable to me getting better at this hobby!
Glad to help.
For real though. I've been watching many different TH-camrs and read many articles but none of them helped me as much as CHEP and Makers Muse. They show a problem and FIX it.
That was EXCELLENT! I have to watch several times to understand what you did with the blocks…but very new information and thought process for me. Thank You!
Your lighting setup is on point now in days, looking good!
Thanks
i can't believe i didn't think about scaling the support blockers sooner lol. i've been using cura for like 2 years hahahaha. Well thanks, i guess you learn something new every day
This is what separates the pro users. Understanding of the settings and what you are actually asking for.
Just fired up my first printer, and just started Cura. Everything might as well be in latin. This video is a huge motivator to look into Cura's print settings and more videos made by this channel
I usually don't bother with tips and tricks and just revert to cranking the pint speed as my printer can handle it but the infill wall multiplier is one that I saw from your videos that I have definitely kept as I find it really useful.
First video I've watched on this channel, and my first thought was "Hey, I didn't knew Stallone was into 3D printing! Cool!"
Some day...I'm going to devote a couple of full days just going through your videos on Cura and learning to do all these tricks. I always say, "Wow" at videos like this, but I never remember them when I need them. Need to make the techniques part of my normal wokflow so they stick in my head.
I have a Cura playlist.
th-cam.com/play/PLRFPlUhDTTlm0AqW9EGhxglCt_OKvAwxI.html
Those are really clever solutions, Chuck. Thanks for sharing!
this is 100% the best channel for 3d printing knowledge! you are a god!
This is good stuff. I just ordered my 1st 3D printer, a Neptune 3 Pro and been looking at different videos. Definitely going to check out the rest of your videos as am sure it’ll help me learn more about printing.
This was really helpful. I like that you explain the issue, then got straight to the point and showed us how to do it. Neat tricks, I didn’t know how to do this before, and now I do! Thanks!
This is your first video I watched and I subscribed instantly, I'm going to watch every last one of your videos.
Thank you so much for these tricks.
this dude really knows how to handle cura! much respect!
I didn't know how to to really use the support blocker until now. That adds a hole new level of flexibility when it comes to fine tuning settings for the model.
I'm new to 3d printing and your videos have been unbelievably helpful, including this one. Thanks for all your hard work. You make life easier for us newbs.
It's not Friday until it's Infilament Friday. Absolutely loved this week's video, Chuck. Just a great collection of tricks wrapped up in a lesson that will pay forwards at some point for many of us. Well done!
You are Cura wizard! What a nice thing to do!
Thats a refreshing and clever way to use infill, never tought to do it like this.
Also compliments the way you present it, clear and to the point unlike other channels who like to hear themself talk. You got a new subscriber.
Ohh, trying this right now! Great tip!
If for some reason you really wanted the design to match perfectly, you could export a second arm that was just the "infill" portion you wanted to change. Line it up in Cura and use that to modify it to print as infill. I use that trick for things all the time when I want specific sections to print infill only but theyre irregularly shaped. The trick to getting it lined up easily is to put a super small of set line around the entire model.(kind of like a skirt) so small that cura doesnt try to print it, but that basically makes both models the same size so all you have to do to line it up is select them both and center it. If that makes sense.
Do you happen to have a link or anything illustrating this...? I'm new to 3d printing and this ALMOST makes sense to me... LOL
@@Blissful_Soundscapes if you model something on your own then you put a pixel thin square around your item. So in case you want to split your model into two pieces Cura will judge the shape of it by that thin square instead of the shape of your model. The square stays the same so the two pieces will fit together. Without the square the different pieces will not align if you try to center them on your printer bed. Then you just select the infill model and set wall count and top/bottom layers to 0.
btw I'm also trying to figure this thing out just as I read his comment, lol. I haven't even modelled anything yet.
Very smart use of slicer settings and infill pattern.
This trick also simplify the modeling, you save time since you don't need to create the pattern, instead of that you rely on the slicer to do it for you.
Another benefits, you can change the pattern without changing the model, and you can print a closed version.
As said very smart, thank you for sharing.
Amazing! As a beginner, it's really inspiring to see how you can problem solve the design to make it print much faster. Great video and great tips! You have a subscriber.
Just discovered your channel and it’s great! Subbed.
Thanks for watching
Your the best just how easy and clear you explain cura 👍👍👍
Thank you! I'm slowly getting my head around cura
Thanks for the info. I'm going to try this on my next print. Great video.
Using same for long time in prusaslicer as well. Even one more trick - create international shape inside arm for example 3mm from walls and use it as modifier without top and bottom, but main part use regular settings. This will build arm with strong shell ( walls can be complex even) and internal part will have nice looking infill .
See link below for example
Such a clear explanation. I love how you waste no time, thank you.
Another fantastic trick Chep! I gotta say, as a newbie to printing, your videos have been an absolute godsend. Great stuff!
Mind blowing tip!! Thanks!!
I have a print I really need to do, and I don't need to worry about how it looks. This just took a 4hr 30m print, all the way down to 1hr 30m. I am so gonna be trying this with my other prints.
It's a good way to prototype.
First video I have watched of yours but great content and your easy on the ear and great at explaining. Subscribed! Keep up the good work :)
This is awesome......
Never thought about tricking the inner design to be infill. Genius dude.
Pfft. Dude, infill is something anyone truely dedicated to 3D priting will know, its like not knowing how to format your ink print. You may not know this but ink printers all the way back to the 90's can print in different formats, making your image/text larger or smaller etc. The most basic of skills when it comes to printing. Fan speed, infill speed, nozzle temperature, supports, are all things you have to be familiar with to print usable things.
This is very specific but definitely complex way to address the issue
Yeah Sly Stallone is into 3D printing now ! Nice 😆❤❤❤
nah this is Frankie Stallone 🤣
Hi! Im new into this 3D community, and i can truly say that your videos really makes it worth watch tutorials! Keep it up !
Thanks
I love how your logic was "do this trick and it'll cut down x time" even though the time was also cut by the fact the second item was smaller. They added a new feature by the way, it's called lightening for infill. works like a charm if you're building something like a model or ornaments for a tree n such where you don't need them to be rock solid.
I talked about lighting in this video: th-cam.com/video/QuS0XtylJU4/w-d-xo.html
Very nice and useful content ! Thanks for your efforts. Subscribed !
Hello and thanks from Canada 🇨🇦
You can multiply the cube for the "per model settings" so you don't have to enter all your settings each time! It will save you another couple seconds! 😉
Not that I’m aware of.
the option is there but it doesn't do anything when I try
Chuck your a wizard man !!!
Nice collection of tips and tricks to save print time - I’d suggest to use the gyroid infill, at 20-30% infill rate but one line thickness it gives very strong parts w/ little time penalty. And it is nice to watch during printing and see on the parr ;)
Thanks Chuck, just in time, my next project was to print your spool holder!I will now do it with the revised settings and use the spare time for other projects.
Another nice advantage of this technique is that if you want to print a decorative pattern, you can try out different kinds of patterns very quickly, much faster than it would take to model them manually (albeit limited to the patterns available as infill patterns). I used it to print a long rectangle with a grid-pattern in the middle, that I could then wrap like a ring around another, cylindrical print, to make it look nicer :)
This is amazing, thank you!
By the way congrats on the 200k!
Thank you
Watching these great videos and it occurs to me that it would be of value to have online courseware where learners worked through all these Cura tricks of yours and then, via repetition, developed an educational base long before burning time and money via actual prints.
Every single one of your videos has excellent information in them. You really know your stuff!
Thanks for this share, brilliant as a newbie I really know nothing! Getting a tutorial into cura like this is a great way to breakdown barriers to newbies! Thanks again, excellent!
huge ! this guy is a Profit ! ty cheers!
If you look at the internal pattern, it is made up of printed triangles. This means a lot of short movements and retractions. It also means a lot of joints between lines. If you model this layer by layer, with straight crossing lines, allowing for open spaces between the crossing lines, you get longer internal lines, that will bound like crazy due to gravity. It probably will print faster than the hack in this video, and probably be just as strong or stronger, depending on how you adjust it. It will look even more like the Eifel. In Cura, you need to model it for double walls for the pattern, as Cura do not slice single wall mesh gracefully. Also, Cura has performance issues with the modeling I propose here, it simply crashes if the model get medium size.
Your Cura tricks are so cool, you converted me from Prusa Slicer! Thanks for the Creality Profiles too!
Thank you!!! Had no idea what those buttons did exactly.
love all your tips and tricks. I am a newbie but learning fast thanks to you. Thanks Jim in Texas
There's so much to know about Cura! I really appreciate your tips!
I am sharing your channel to EVERYONE!!!
Thanks.
Amazing video Chuck, great tips
Yeah, definitely can use this trick to speed up.print times as well as make other changes like making portions of the object more solid. Really gonna have to give this a try! Thanks!
It's not really a trick. I mean, for a part like this 5 hours should be the max. Just because Cura says 9 hours doesn't mean that's the recommended print time for that item.
In engineering, all of this would have been considered before it was ever opened in the slicer.
I would have titled this video "Don't Trust the print time that Cura tells you".
It’s very accurate with my profiles since I set the acceleration settings
Love your trick.
didn't know about that ! thanks Chuck!
Just getting into 3D printing and this great info! Thank you.
Nice and simply explained - i dont know what that blocks in cura do, now i know, thanks!
good thing you got that solution....
I've struggled printing that thing in my EV2...
Great..
Thank you...
From Hungary
Brilliant lesson, thank you very much.
Your cura videos are amazing that open new ideas on project I have in mind Thank so much you the best
It's a great tip Chuck. I'm using mostly Repetier host using Cura engine and it always prints quicker than any Cura version with the same settings. For example, DJI F450 arm prints in Repetier 2h44m, in Cura 3h58m.. And has similar structure to the filament arm you're showing here.
Increasing the inner wall speed can make for huge time savings with large prints as well.
for simple, structural parts like this, "overprinting" with a much larger extrusion cross section, than one normally would, is also a nice option.
with a normal 0.4mm nozzle it's easily possible to print with an extrusion of 0.4-0.6mm (yes, i am serious!) layer height by 1-1.2mm line width, as long as heat and speed are adjusted accordingly slow and hot.
of course a bigger nozzle is an option too, but i was impressed just how far i could push it. with a slightly modified 0.4mm one, i could print up to a 0.75x2mm, before the lines turning into squiggles of spaghetti.
for fast low quality high strength prints you can also increase line width (only with flat tipped nozzles) so every layer is smeared on like butter but much wider and sturdier
Fantastic, Chuck! 😃
Thanks a LOT for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Mind blown! This is going to be super helpful, thanks!
I'm glad this video is recommended to me. This is great trick and I learned more about Cura. Thank you!
Thanks Chep always nice to learn from you 👍
Wow! I've still got so much to learn about what Cura can do. Didn't even know these settings existed.
Thank YOU for all tips and trix. I really like your content.
Thank you for this video.
This trick gives me so many new ideas.
Cool tip, thanks!
That's simply clever
Seriously pro tips right here.
That's genius, thank you for sharing this insights of Cura options.
Awesome! Didn't know you could edit the properties of the boxes in Cura. Thanks for the video!
1:40 details.... i never even looked at that. That's the key, because it tells you what's taking the longest so you know what to try and speed up.
It seems like the main speed benefit here comes from the infill speed being higher than perimeter speed. What if you print original design without slicer hacks, but with perimeter speed=infill speed?
Try it. Still was slower for me. Top and bottom surface adds time as well.
I've got a longer lk4 and I spent a lot of time exporamenting early on to figure out tricks to get faster prints but these are things I hadn't thought of. Definitely going to be trying some of these tricks out.
that's amazing, plus now i learned about that block thing with different settings, that's a neat trick!
pretty good piece of advice in this vid, thanks for sharing.
Nice. My favorite "trick" is to bump my line thickness up from the default 0.4mm for a .4mm nozzle to 0.5mm or 0.6mm. Whether this is suitable or not depends on your part design, but this works nicely for many items.
On this one it messed up the design so I chose to use double line
@@FilamentFriday Sorry. You lost me. I know there is a line multiplier for infill, but I'm not familiar with "double line". But then there's a ton I don't know about Cura.
It’s in the video.
Great tip thanks Chuck. Would not have thought to modify support setttings to change model settings.
Cool tips, thank you. Also, I didn't know you could show the dollar value of the filament in Cura, that's handy.