Simple Auto Off Control for Creality Ender 3 without Octoprint
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มี.ค. 2020
- Chuck shows you how to build a simple Automatic Power Off Control for Your Creality Ender 3 or Any 3D Printer that doesn't use Octoprint. He uses a stock Creality Ender 3 and adds the basic components that cost less than $30 to create a safe and reliable auto-off system. The Power Relay used in the project is controlled by a low voltage signal and is safer than trying to wire a relay directly in the power supply. All the components, tools and 3D prints used in the project are listed below.
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Auto Power Off: Components and Tools:
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As I beginner into printing and someone not very good with computers this is awesome! I have currently been just setting an alarm on my phone to wake up and go turn it off.
Thank you. You are the audience I made this for. No computer, no firmware, no Octoprint. Just a simple mod.
Try octoprint, will give so many more advantages and is easy todo.
@@FilamentFriday And what would you do on a dual Z? also nice video making it 10mins long for a thing that only needs 3mins to explain and show... :'D
@@FilamentFriday does the sudden power cut damage any components like the stepper motors while running? I've got a printed switch myself.
@@GamesPlayer1337 Hey Genius, the title of the video is ..."without Octoprint" Suggesting octoprint is like how to cut wood without a saw, reddit-"use a saw" Octoprint may be easier in your opinion but the absolute easiest for everyone is you keeping your comments to yourself. I dont see any "how to" videos from you, just 10 hours of pointless family guy.
I’d recommend a cheap smart plug over this. I use a tplink smart plug with a octoprint plugin. Works great
Do you know if it’ll work with creality slicer?
Electric Nog Has nothing to do with the slicer. It will work 👍
I did the same with OctoPrint-IFTTT plugin and a Smart Plug and I can easily switch it on or off by enabling/disabling the IFTTT Applet.
I plan on using this set up in conjunction with your filament run out switch. I really like that you use simple easy accessible hardware for your upgrades.
TIP: Add some extra GCode to wait for the printer to cool down before shutting down. Turning off the head fan at high temperatures is not a good idea...
M109 R80 will set the hot end temperature to 80 degrees, and wait, even when cooling. The R is important there, otherwise it won't wait
This.
Sweet idea Chuck! Thanks so much. I think I will give it a try. With your instruction, it is a no brainer!
Thanks for posting this, it's always good to have other options. I'm not sure I'm digging the battery option, or the whole wire in the always on, but like you said in your video, it's good to have options. Thank you for sharing.
Great idea and thanks for sharing 🙂. I really like how simple it is since that approach makes it very flexible to add more sophisticated means like a microchip, WiFi power plug, node red, etc. in the future.
Thank you so much for this awesome idea I was able to set it up perfectly I used a plug instead of a battery ended up putting the positive in the negative on the action relay switched them and it has been working amazingly thank you!!!
I'm always trying to overcomplicate things. I really like this simple little hack. Thanks, Chuck! 👍
That's my problem too, many times over. It's "hey, look what I can do with this & this & this," squirrel! , etc. 🤦♂️
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP definitely not the easiest option. Search for Ender 3 auto off, much better and a lot less messy solutions.
@@TheMrRatzz actually a Wi-Fi smart plug is only $7 and can shut off anywhere in the world, has timed shut off too
Awesome guide!!! Followed this one and my prints came out perfect from the start, not a hiccup anywhere!
Lol.. why would it change your print quality?
@@TheMrRatzz This is messed out from youtube, this is not the video I posted on, it was a guide on how to assemble the Ender 3
As the relay plug can be switched up to 60v, you could take a feed from the printer power supply (24v), so there's no need for separate power brick to be on all the time, and it'll only be able to turn it off when the printer is actually on. As others have suggested, add G-code to cool down first before moving to top.
Add in Chris Riley's wire end caps from the light holder and you can have really clean wire routing.
With a wi-fi outlet I can set the time to auto shut off using my phone. I can also turn it off remotely before it finishes a print if I notice through my wyze cameras that the printing is failing and save on filament. Thanks on the tools tips anyway. Very handy.
That's what I do. I have a wyze cam watching the print and the printed plugged into a wyze plug. Turn it off remotely at any time.
I look forward to these videos thanks I really appreciate all the work you put into them.
Another great video thanks for all you do for the community
I have seen this used to shut power off when a smoke alarm is triggered. This is another useful way to use it though you could probably use it for both by adding an OR gate.
Pretty cool! A nice alternative to Octoprint and a smart plug! Might want to add two lines at the end of the G-code? One for the approach and one, slower, for the switch toggling? The sound it makes when it gets stuck at the end is a bit unnerving. It might increase the life expentancy of the limit switch.
Thanks for this Chuck, another really interesting video.
I made one of these using an Arduino and servo to switch my printer off from its regular switch. Also added a smoke detector to switch it off if there's smoke. Cheap setup that has added options. Eventually got rid of the axis switch and added an LCD and programmed it so I could enter a timer to switch it off.
I bought a 433MHz smoke detector from Banggood and use my Sonoff RF bridge to send an alert to my phone via my Raspberry Pi server and also going it use it to switch off the printer's wifi controlled socket
Great idea. I always wondered why it isn't a standard feature to turn off the printer after finishing the print. I myself use a time switch with countdown function to turn the printer off. Its not completly precise but better than have the printer running all night without need.
Same here .Uses Sonoff's to shut down my printers using timer function ,yes the printers do not shut down right after the prints
ends ,but i am setting the timer to shut down approximately a half hour later ,no routing of wires is used to get this up and
running
I personally think this is a problem that doesn't really exist especially when you can adapt the g code or use a smart plug on a schedule . Having said that, I have had the pleasure of watching Chep's video tutorials for sometime and I truly believe his professionalism makes him show what is out there whether or not it is important to the masses doesn't matter, if it is interesting and useful that is good enough.
That is pretty slick. Thanks for this tutorial!
Nice hack but there is a much simpler solution for switching out your Ender 3 after printing without hardware modification and without gcode: Get a Gosund smart plug over at Amazon. Those cheap devices can be programmed via Smartphone app. Simply define a power limit and your Ender 3 will switch off if power consumption drops below 50W. Works perfectly for me since two month.
Dam Chuck I wish I had seen this before I bought a smart switch uggggggg. I remembered you demoing this way back when but forgot it. I should have known you would have a solution for this issue since you and ModBot are my go to guys and the two I support ;-}
Option 3:
Use a smart plug, and you can time it and have Google home automation to shutoff the printer depending on your print time!
Subscribed! CHEP you're making leaps and bounds with these videos man!
No. Way.
THATS AWESOME😂😂
Oh man I'm totally going to steal some of that End GCode, thank you!
@CHEP That text box though. It should have scaled 4-5x as high.
Thanx alot 😊👍
I actually changed my printer to anycubic since it has the auto off feature 😊
One problem I see is that this requires the z-axis screws to not twist freely when the stepper motor is not engaged. I have my Ender 3 tuned and squared to a point that there is little to no pressure holding the x-gantry in place without the stepper motor being engaged and would likely drop over time causing the printer to turn back on. I may look into doing this but with the second all the way to the right on the x-axis. Then, as long as I don't print to the full extent of the bed's width (something I rarely do), I can just have the gantry move to x230 and simply tap the print head to the left to turn the printer back on.
Great info as always Chuck👍
My first auto poweroff was a servo sitting above the power switch. With End-Gcode i moved the servo to hit the power switch and go back to idle. The printer is then powered off :D
Love it!! great vid!! Octoprint is so buggy.. 3rd party plugins conflicting left and right.. no organization.. dont get me started on the community.. I have never seen so many haters.. I like printing not rewriting some childs hacked code.. this is a great option.. plus I happen to have one of those power relays just sitting around.. I think I will use a microcontroller though so when the limit switch is triggered a timer can kick in and give it 10 min or so to cool down.. Thank you for the inspiration.. and as for any octo lovers out there I don't care about your opinion about how great it is..
OMG THANK YOU!!!!!! I’ve been wondering how to do this and never though you made a video on it! Thanks
Fantastic! That's really useful! 😃
Thanks a lot!!!
*FILAMENT FRIGGIN' FRIDAY, BABY!* Wo0Ho0! 😎 🤘
Very interesting idea, I already have Octopi connected to my CR-10s, so I'll have to look into it shutting off the power when the print stops.
Octoprint can use gpio for CHEP's choice or better yet one of the smart switch plugins and a wifi switch.
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP since posting this I've been researching and trying to make a final decision if I want to use Octoprints PSU and thermal runaway plugins or the Enclosure plugins.
I already installed a 12v led strip across the top brace and ran the wires through the factory loom into the power supply in the control box, so they turn on and off with the power to the printer. I was thinking about maybe separate on/off control for the LEDs with the enclosure plugin.
I would prefer not to use a wifi smartswitch, because IOT devices security sucks and I don't want it to be an attack portal for my network.
Well done Chuck. Thanks!
Thanks Chuck, clear and concise, Cheers, JAYTEE
Thanks for the tip. This will be the next mod.
wifi socket, easier and safer.
Great vid mr Chep.
Been printing a while now but dipping my toes into the whole wiring and electricity thing.
Recentlyt octoprint working and looking to control the power supply with a relay remotely.
In your experience, theoretically, for remote shutdown or thermal runaway protection, would this relay adapter be able to be shutdown with a raspberry pi instead of the battery and end-stop switch?
Is this something you would try?
Another great Vid Chep. Wish i could get hold of one of these units over her in the UK :(
That's a good one Chuck!!!! Nice!!
Great idea Chuck. Thank you.
Awesome as always 👍
Good idea.
Using AA batteries would save a lot on batteries, they have at least 4 time the capacity and usually they are much cheaper than 9V batteries and even using 4 or 6 AA batteries will be cheaper.
I am very interested in the crimper tool, I need a good tool for JST.
Hey CHEP. Could you also set this up with a proximity sensor instead of a limit switch? So you would use a NC proximity sensor at the top of the printer. I have a snapmaker, and it seems like it would work better for the design of the printer. Thanks!!
I think that grind and the end is because the switch is a bit lower than 250, manually raise it on the Ender screen little by little until you find the sweet spot.
U only need a limit switch and a timer relay. End print position of tray in Y axis triggers limit switch which activates timer relay. U can set this to 10s or 60s and tada, it cuts off.
Nice job Chep!
I like your video. I’m going to adapt it to a my Ender 2 printer as well as my Ender 3.
7:19, that's nasty stepper motor grind...
Why is it doing that noise ?
Thanks for the video Chep. I personally just use a Wi-Fi power strip from Amazon I got for 27 bucks. Works great and the app actually has a timer where you can set it to automatically shut off after a print (set time in the day).
Do you think you could make a video in the future about how to move all the electronics out of an enclosure and mainly just extend all the wiring for the stepper Motors in the Z limit switch? Believe it or not there's not a lot of videos or how to do on this subject. Thanks again for the upload love your videos.
Why would you want that?
I thought most people liked the all in one printer.
@@FilamentFriday Well for me personally my printer is in an enclosure in my garage. I live in AZ so in summer I can't even print PLA do to the ambient temp in the garage. The heat sink can't keep the temp so the PLA just melts all the way up lol. I do alot of PETG /ABS in summer. I want to get the main board outside the enclosure.
Good idea, but maybe it would be interesting to add a delay time before shutdown, to properly cool down the hot end :\ Don't know if it has a impact or not but i'm feeling better with that
I enjoy seeing the electronics content.
I think that was a good choice in a relay package. I've done quite a few relay projects from 5v DC to 120v AC. You could accomplish this with a $5 relay. I've had them turn on/off air conditioners. But how could you ever advise that.
Edit: add M109 R45 to the end gcode. Makes the printer pause until the nozzle cools down.
I see you've posted the looking forward to your video comment a few times. I think I get that you're encouraging content creation. 👍
It really depends on a person's level of skill and confidence how they choose to tackle the feature in your video. I like how yours is almost stupid-simple for the entry level user to get working. As their confidence, experience, and skillset improves they can decide to avail themselves of more complicated options.
I've been in this a bit over a year and have an electro-mechanical background. My current iteration is using a wifi switch (open source firmware) with Octoprint and Home Assistant to monitor and control my Ender 3. That's not something a newbie will likely want (or should) jump into right at the start. They'll be having enough "fun" getting a good print from their machine at first.
What's great is the maker community has a wide range of skill levels and many people have chosen to make videos about setting up such systems. I'd love to get into it myself and talk about areas I feel haven't been covered or put my take on a way something has been done already. The where-to-begin aspect has me trapped at the gate though.
Exactly why I look forward to their videos. No point in posting a comment about an alternate system if they just end up hiding it in the workshop. What good is that.
Hey would u make one that dose all of that but when u bed moves forward and trigger the kill switch?? For people that don’t know anything about wires and Soldering?? Thanks!
Would you happen to have a similar relay? I'm looking/wanting to do this for a filament run-out solution(so I don't have to mess with the firmware) but it seems to be NLA. Thanks.
My octoprint solution is octoprint + shutdown printer plugin + IFTTT + smartplug.
An alternate way to achieve similar results would be to use a Wyze Contact Sensor in place of the switch and have it turn off a smart plug when closed. But thanks for the idea!
creative and clever, and it works!
I bought that same power relay. My plan is to glue some thermistors to hotend and bed since I already had the experience that the transistor for the bed heater got stock ON and the bed was 100C when I got to the printer after a finished print. So I want a system independent of the printer board that monitors temperature and other parameters like a smoke detector, to cut current once any of those parameters get out of limit. However, I didn't think about power off after print ends, my only concern is that I saw your X-axis getting out of level when it hit the sensor and couldn't move forward on one side. Could the control board have a pin that gets a signal out once the print is done? I could easily integrate that to the Arduino and not having my x-axis getting out of level.
Thanks for the video CHEP! I jumped right on this and bought the Power Relay, used my old Z-axis switch (currently I use an EZABL), and provided the "control signal" power from a little 5V wall wart I had laying around. It works pretty well, but I did find that the Ender 3 power supply has a somewhat slow turn off rate, so the Z stepper tends to try to keep driving the gantry up even after it triggers the switch. At first it even slid the switch up with it, but when I tightened it enough to stop the gantry then the stepper would skip for a bit with a nasty clunk-clunk-clunk-clunk. Maybe it would be less jarring if we mounted the switch off to the side so the gantry could continue past it a little bit? Then we could tweak the switch location as needed a little lower to allow for the deceleration of the gantry as the power supply discharges.
Good idea. You could also slow down the rise to 1000 or even 500. I had mine fast for the video.
@@FilamentFriday I ordered the switches with the cable harnesses included, they turn out to be normally open, not normally closed so I had to switch the socket to use for the Ender 3. Also the holder on Thingiverse doesn't quite fit the cable harness version of the switches, so I did a remix it's thing 4222511.
None of this a big deal - I am also using a leftover 5v wall wart for the control voltage and it works fine, but... I also have the clunking - it is quite severe and actually bent the switch away from the board. There is quite a bit of latency between when the switch closes and power drops to the board.
I tried going at high speed F1500 to about 10mm before the switch, then slowly closing at F300, but the switch closure was not positive and the power dropped and came back on. I'm interested in the approach Chris mentioned, maybe some kind of flexible trigger attached to the switch?
Overall I really like the idea, thanks for the video!
Someone suggested a push on / push off switch
@@FilamentFriday I found a simple solution to the clunking - did an auto home, then used the z-motion menu to raise the arm until it just depressed the switch, and noted the Z height. Set that as the z in the G1 command, and the it works perfectly. On my machine I measured it as 223.4mm, and set the command to G1 F1000 Z224. Glides to a stop just as the switch clicks, and then the power drops. I'm very happy with this mod, thanks again!
Good video, but if running Octoprint it is quite straight forward. I run a TPLink Smart-Plug as well as the TPLink plugin for Octoprint. This opens a wide variety of options such as power off/on on print, error, GCode command, etc. My RPi is powered from my printer's PSU so I can turn it on from my phone or Alexa, and have the printer automatically turn off after a delay to allow the hotend to cool down.
The smart plug can also monitor power consumption and is a lot less hassle to set up than a limit switch. Cheaper too.
Much of what you just said will scare many people off as complex so this is a simple alternative for those that want a simple solution.
@@FilamentFriday It really isn't - plug in the smart plug to the outlet, plug the printer to the smart plug and install the TPLink Octoprint plugin. Install the TPLink app on your phone, get the IP and you're good to go. Tick the box on the plugin that says "Power off after print" and add a delay to prevent heat creep. Sorted. Easy PSU control from Octoprint.
@@agentl3r you dont need to go that far just a wifi plug for people who do not have a raspberry pi will do.
This is a awesome idea but shouldn't the fans cool off the bowden tube before shutting down or it will damage the tube eventually?
I also have thought of that, maybe is possible to put a line in the gcode that starts the "z up" line just after the hot end reaches a temp below 60C°. Also i wonder if turning off the printer while its running code might cause problems?
WiFi plug and octoprint. Job done. Liked the vid though, Chuck. 😀
I've considered that a possibility, but I think I'll go this route in case the internet is temporarily down.
@@alphaqlater Or use the same relay controlled by the Pi instead of the switch
Hi Chuck, great idea! I was thinking of using automatic switch off outlet timers ($10-15 on amazon) and setting it according to cura's estimated print time with a little bit of allowance. Besides the print time uncertainty and it not being an "immediate" shut off solution, do you think it would have any issues on safety for both electrical and electronics? Thank you!
Would probably work fine.
wifi socket and use that 12 dollars and your done and no wiring!
Hello CHEP! Can I turn the 3D printer off once a part is completed, or do I need to wait for the temperatures to drop? Thanks!
Not a bad solution for a noisy printer as the Ender 3. When my Prusa i3 MK3S finishes, the only thing left running is the hotend cooling fan, which is a Noctua, and even that shuts off when the hotend gets below 50 degrees Celsius.
We need a middle finger button
I would like to know, how in God's name can anyone, give a thumbs down to such a clear, and informative video. If's is too much for them, they might want to consider another hobby.
Thanks
Hi friend, I made an upgrade today in my Ender 3 Pro with the new BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 mother board and it has automatic shutdown and power-ff resume. But I will still need to buy another board to do this job or it's a only software change to enable it? I can not beleive I'll have to buy another board, hope not. I could not find the answer yet in the web. Thanks!
very nice idea! Just a quick question: i'm looking to buy the Ender 3 but before i need the space it takes to properly work (stock ender)... can't find it anywhere.
Because i want to place it in a very tight closet. thanks in advance!
It can get very hot in a tight space, the hot end is 200 degrees plus the plate at 60 degrees then the fan on the electrics panel and motherboard, thats a lot of heat to dump, If youre going to just print PLA leave it on the side of a desk of buy Crealitys tent for it.
I appreciate the DIY spirit, but Octoprint and a smart plug or a relay is a better solution by any reasonable measure. I think you have not covered Octoprint in your videos before, you should give it a try. There is also a plugin for Cura to directly print to Octoprint (and other slicers too), it is a huge QOL upgrade.
Not sure it’s better but different. Just wanted to show a simple solution.
@@FilamentFriday I've found it to be a big improvement overall in my printing experience. There are some obscure gotchas, but they aren't going to bite most users.
That is a nice relay, pity its not 220 volt, you could of course do the same with a sealed 110 or 230 volt microswitch and mount that at the top of the X gantry and just add to the end of the Gcode a simple command for the X gantry to go to the top and Bingo off goes your printer power. wind it down and it goes back on. CURA has the ability to put this into every print automatically. That would save 30 dollars on the relay and all the other kits and all you would need a is 2 dollar microswitch and some cable, ok its 220 or 110 volts but the machine has that coming into it anyway and as long as you wire it up properly its perfectly safe.
Or do what I did I bought a wifi plug and control it that way. bit different if you have a lot of printers though
I used that same relay box to make a thermostat for a space heater. 2 months later I woke up to the smell of burning plastic. The relay burnt a hole straight through itself, through the outer case, and left a puddle of melted plastic on the floor. The Ender 3 doesn’t draw nearly as much current as a space heater does though so it should be fine
Space heaters typically draw a lot more than the 40A limit of this relay. You gave it the ultimate stress test.
Space heaters and outlet strips, let alone these over-spec'd chinesium switches, don't mix well.
You can do the same with a sonoff mini and a switch for a cheaper solution
Yes, it works but with a small firmware modification, you could use a servo signal to emulate an ATX PS. And no need for switches.
I look forward to your video on that.
didnt you add an auto fan off to your printers . Maybe use that signal with an override to get the print started then turn off override and once the fan stops it send signal to your relay box. If voltage is too high use a dc dc step down.
I've gone more manual, and off-the-shelf, after initially planning to knock up an arduino to do it. I have an IP camera so I can watch prints from work, and bought a smart-plug that I can switch on/off wit my phone on wi-fi, so in the event of a failed print I can hit the kill switch and not waste filament/make a mess....
Home network could fail, there is no redundancy to your solution.
@@blitz-toasted6211 Our downtime in the past year or two might be measured in a handful of minutes total, I'm not concerned. My printer has no life-support features... :)
I would be concerned leaving any printer unattended personally. I have 2 printers and they only print while I'm awake or monitoring them. Remote control and monitoring is a strategy risk to those around your farm, it's that simple. You must think about the worsted that can happen and protect others from your mistakes.
Worst
@@blitz-toasted6211 Your concerns are noted, thanks for stopping by now.
You could just use a smart plug and use automation apps such as alexa (for example) to turn on/off the device.
Aargh, very very good idear, Many thank
Hi, Do you think it's best to wait for the hot end to cool down before switching off ? I am using a smart IP camera and mains plug that I can monitor and then remote switch off, but I like this method to auto switch off at the end of the print and I am going to add it to my large format printer.
Like I said. Slow it down F1000 or even F500 so it cools if you are concerned.
@@FilamentFriday You can also add an "M109 S40" to wait until the hotend has cooled down before raising to the top and shutting the printer off.
@@toniwryan needs to be R40 to make it wait for a cool down. S40 waits on a temperature rise and will just skip over it when the temp is above the value.
@@FilamentFriday It looks like this is not for sale in the UK at the moment.
It’s only 110v.
I use a smart wall plug (± 10 euro's). And turn it off (I can do this on my smartphone where ever I am) 10 minutes after the print time comes to an end (to be sure). And you can 'program' the switch to turn off after every time you set it to.
you can get a clogged nozzle that way by just switching it off, just leave it for 20 minutes or so to cool down then turn it off or if you have a Pi like me I use that and IFTTT I use the pi and that to turn itself off via a wifi plug after cool down. then back on via Alexa or my mobile or just press the button on the plug. Even tells me how much electricity I have used!!
I love this idea however I was under the impression that you need the hotend cooling fan on to cool the hotend prior to switching off your printer. Could this be a safety concern?
It cools while it rises. Like I said in the video you can slow it down if you want more time for cooling.
@@FilamentFriday M109 R45 in the gcode to make the printer wait until the hotend is cool before moving to the switch.
You can also use a smoke detector to trip the power strip giving you fire protection
Thanks Chep
Will this work on klipper firmware/Sonic pad as well?
i really wish these features like autoleveling, auto off are present from the get go.
buy a printer that isn't as cheap.. you get what you pay for.
Nice design
Hi Chep, do u know if there is an solution for our 230V System in Europe ? Havent find something like yours here.
I am looking for the same
Not that I’m aware of.
Hi sir, Just getting started 3d printing. I watch your video for auto shut off of ender 3. I was wondering if you have update your shut off process, because can not able to get the switch box.
Can you help me with new easy update
I’ve got nothing new right now.
I just use a $7 WiFi socket plug. The way you do it is awesome. So many cool options. One day, maybe....
How does it shutoff at the print is complete?
CHEP you can do it two ways. First manually via an app via the internet so wherever you are you can switch it off and second you can set a timer. So I set it 10-20min after estimated end of print.
You can also see the current draw remotely on these Chep so setting an alarm on your phone , checking the power draw and manually choosing to shut down is a valid option too.
Got a problem:
TEVO Tornado with a firmware problem: First I had the blue screen of
death, so I re-uploaded a fresh version of TEVOs firmware. No errors
before or after uploading and all categories/options are there. "BUT"
open the 'Print from SD Card" and I might get just a blue screen with
the word 'Main" on top... close and reopen and it'll show all the files
on the card, "BUT" it will not let me scroll down past the first one.
Now if you select that file and click it IT REBOOTS! back to the desktop
screen every time.
OK lets try something else, so I downloaded Marlin V2 patch 4. it came
with a ton of errors, (days to figure out and fix). Uploaded/no errors. All
categories/options are there. Go into "Print from SD Card" it lets me scroll
the list no problem, "BUT" (Are you ready for this?) any file you select it
"REBOOTS" back to the desktop screen!!!!
So the million dollar question is how can I have two OS's doing the very
same thing? Where do I start looking and what am I looking for?
I have this set up but recently upgraded my printer mother board and also got a Raspberry Pi, Controller be used to power on/off the printer using the OctoPrint?
yeah, if you run cables from the pi's gpio pins to the extension lead's relay input, and then use a relay module on octopi, then yes you can
I use this unit with the Pi and Octoprint. I use the PSU Control plugin. It works great.
What’s your opinion on the bl touch auto bed level for the ender 3 pro? I bought a ender 3 pro a few months ago and it’s gotten to the point where I’m having to level the bed after every single print and the middle of the bed also isn’t level it has a small divot where I’m having to move my prints to the front of the print bed. Any idea in what to do to fix that problem?
Fix or Replace the bed. Auto bed level won’t fix a bad bed.
throw a post-it note under the build surface on the low spot.
Is the end gcode transferred permanently with one file or does every gcode file need the change? I have a ton of prepared gcode file to print.
It’s in every file
Chep you the man
just curious since my y-axis always comes forward when a print is done could I do this on the y-axis instead of the Z?
Yes, just don’t build anything big enough to hit the switch.
Yes, with a microswitch when the print presents itself at the end.
good work.
I am into video 1 minute but already see it's kinda inferior. I have a temperature-controlled WIFI relay (12$), so I can turn it off after printer cooldowns also it has WIFI so I can turn it on/off with a smartphone after I see an error via webcam it is also literally just plug and play.
KAJJTAN what kind of relay? give a link please
Looking forward to your video on it.
@@FilamentFriday It would be awful since I am both bad at presenting something and speaking at the audience, also English is my 3rd language. I also have finished your video, I quite like your option, I have considered something similar at first, but then looked into WIFI sockets since my printer is in the basement, and found this Sonoff relay. I also love how you hide the wires in the extrusion I will steal this for sure for my LED strip wires. Also, it looks like that your relay could be controlled with raspberry pi so you could get both worlds, wifi, temperature and manual z stop.
Using temperature is a really good idea to sense end-of-print.....
@@geoninja8971 I rarely use this feature now. It's bad for rasperry pi. I should plug it into always on socket I guess.