6 Creality Ender 3 V2 Upgrades You Should Still Do
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2024
- Looking to upgrade your Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer in 2023? You've come to the right place! In this video, I will show you how to take your 3D printing game to the next level with a step-by-step guide to upgrading your Ender 3 V2.
I will cover everything from hardware upgrades like a new hot end and extruder, to calibrating the printer and firmware settings. Whether you're a seasoned pro or a beginner, you'll be able to follow along and make the most out of your 3D printer.
So if you're ready to take your 3D printing to the next level, hit that subscribe button and join me on this exciting journey of upgrading your Creality Ender 3 V2!
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You can find the Hotend Print Files and Instructions here: social.thangs.com/m/776965
I am using the latest version of Jyers Firmware in this config: E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.2-v2.0.1. You can find it here: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
All Parts were Printed with eSUN Filament: geni.us/FavFilament
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The parts that I have installed on my Ender 3 V2:
Creality Ender 3 V2: geni.us/Ender3-V2
Bed Insulation: geni.us/BedInsulation
Stronger Bed Springs: geni.us/BedSprings
Dual Z-Axis: geni.us/DualZ
Creality Spider Hotend: geni.us/SpiderHotend
4010 Radial Fans: geni.us/4010Fan
Noctura Fan: geni.us/Noctua-Fan
Direct Drive: geni.us/DirectDrive
Pancake Stepper: geni.us/PancakeSteppe
Heatsinks: geni.us/Heasink
PEI-Bed: geni.us/PEI-Bed
Dual Gear Extruder: geni.us/DualGear
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Chapters
0:00 Intro & Parts
0:30 Bed Insulation
1:24 Stronger Bed Springs
1:52 Dual Z-Axis
4:01 Hotend Conversion
8:13 Printer Calibration & Settings
9:12 First Test Print
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Instagram: / thebuildbay
TikTok: / thebuildbay
Twitter: / thebuildbay
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Hashtags: #ender3 #upgrades #asmr
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Disclaimer: Some of the links above are paid links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The best upgrade without a doubt is switching from "Marlin" to "Klipper"....biggest and best upgrade I've ever made.
Agreed, I think i might even stay clear of a bambu lab printer because of how much i love klipper.
Yup, still on my to do list 🤘
@@Dirt33breaks Klipper is awesome, but the bambu lab printers run like a dream and are a great value, especially the P1S. Cannot recommend it enough. I just don't use my printers remotely or on "the cloud", I don't trust ANY software or even "secure" networks enough with potential fire hazards for that.
I would but idk how
Why is klipper better than marlin? I've just started researching both
Clicked for the upgrades, stayed for the ASMR
This is the sort of project that I start and regret like building a new PC. Worthwhile in the end but the effort involved doesn't pay off quite as much as I had hoped. Thanks for showing the effort involved as I will embark upon such things with my eyes fully open!
agreed, simply the CR Touch, strong springs and enclusure was able to make all of my prints nearly flawless. everything else was just "nice to have"
Building a PC is nothing compared to this. You can assemble a new PC in 15-20 minutes.
@@shatterpointgames 🤣
The dual z, new hot end and direct drive are almost do nothing. Even the metal wheel and spring are not a must..
I went a slightly different route with my V1. I installed a Sprite Pro with dual 5015 fans, silicone bed mounts, dual z drive like yours, a 4.2.7 main board, a CR-Touch and the Mriscoc Professional firmware and the V2 display. Mostly the same path, but with a couple of minor differences.
Nice!
Good one. Thanks.
I enjoyed this video a lot
Having tried nearly EVERY DD extruder available for the Ender 3, I highly recommend the MicroSwiss style over ones that use short Bowden tubes.
Great recommendation 👍🏻
I would recommend something along the lines of H2V2S Revo or Revo Roto.
Hi, loved your video. I am very curious to know what firmware you are using as I noticed it's different from the stock firmware.
Thank you! I am using the latest version of Jyers Firmware in this config: E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.2-v2.0.1. You can find it here: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
Can I change the standard 0.4mm nozzle to 0.2 on my Ender 3 pro and are there any changes to cura I have to make, thanks
Great video. I have a question. I have the ender 3v2neo. What do i need yo print carbon or nylon filament. Thank you
excellent video and pretty cool hotend design! 👏😎
Thank you! I am pretty happy with the design...already working on a version for the E3D Revo CR hotend 😎
@@thebuildbay hehe, can't wait to see the one with the REVO CR 💪
That wiring job.... ouch...
@@everettebinger5956 ik it was making me cringe
@@everettebinger5956 Hijacking a comment just to push someone down, your parents must of loved you so much... If you're so bright and knowledgeable commit and tell us all how it could be better.
If you run klipper, you could get a BTT 42 tool head board and free up one of the main board stepper drivers for dual z auto gantry leveling.
Haven't thought about that and will do it to my printer
Thank you
How do u get a second part cooling fan?!? I have my van for the red part but I want both part cooling ones?!?
Fantastic video, can you please advise the brand and type of red petg you used for the fan cover please. Thanks
Thank you, glad you like it! I have linked all used materials in the description or on my Thangs profile. The fan cover is printed with PLA from eSUN. The fan shroud with PETG, not sure which brand though...
@@thebuildbay Thanks very much. Also one last question, does the fan duct also support 4020 fan instead of the usual 4010?
Great video and some great upgrades which I would personally like to do to my ender 3 pro. But I have a question to your upgrade to the hotend shroud. Does it work with a microswiss hotend? I know that the spider hotend has slightly different dimensions but I cant say if it makes it impossible to use. Thank you in advance.
I can't promise anything, but if the dimension align, it should be fine. I also did a version for the Revo CR Hotend. Maybe that fits dimension wise. Just follow the link in the description to my Thangs profile
i did this upgrade as well but i like the sprite extruder better for a upgrade.. i got better prints myself :) killer video tho!
Thank you! Yes, the sprite extruder is definitely a great alternative!
Okay so i was debating this myself. Can the sprite extruder also have more cooling as well? Like is this an already designed option or would this be something id have to design myself? I like both options but i think my printers are requiring a bit more cooling in my environment so that is a big deal with this upgrade
Are the hot end shroud files available somewhere as actual CAD files instead of mesh files? I'd love to use it but I have a base Ender 3, not a V2 so I need to modify mounting holes and possibly merge the ducts into a single part so they're stable. That would be a lot easier to do with a proper CAD format instead of a mesh file. I thought about modifying the original to be compatible but then I'd be redoing all the same mods so thought I'd ask first.
Fixed my issue, just loaded it into blender and did some modifications to the mesh itself
Can you please advise if the heatsinks are necessary on the motors? Also if the hot end fan can accomodate a 4020 fan. I have read amny forums and the concensus seeme to be the Noctua fans are not able to provide enough airflowto the hot end and therefore results in heat creep on the hot end?
I have already purchased "Creality Official Extruder Upgrade Kit with Direct Drive for Ender-3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 3D Printer" and "Ender 3 Heating Bed, 24 V, 220 W, Aluminum, 235 x 235 x 3 mm, with Cable for Ender-3/Ender 3X/Ender 3Pro 3D Printer, DIY Kit". My question would be if I can go "3D printer controller RAMPS 1.4 controller + Mega R3 board " for my HOME MADE 3D printer together.
Thank you, Kind regards
1:20 i would rather recommend rigid mounting the bed screw it down and check how flat it is then adjust with washers till its good enough for mesh to take it the rest of the way. youll be able to hit much higher acceleration. i also dont see the point of the metal bed leveling adjusters, stock ones will do just fine and these wont solve the issue of them slowly coming loose over time
you also should not be using 12v fans when the printer is 24v Sunon, Delta and many other make good 24v fans, which means you dont need to use a dc converter to make a 12v supply. one less faliure point especially for the hotend fan is something to consider, even better is a fan with a tach output and if it reports 0rpm you can fail safe and prevent heating
7:55 ok you own a soldering iron, yet you just twist the fan wires together and heatshrink?
worth noting anything on the hotend should be at least ABS or ASA. PLA & PETG should be avoided, due to their low glass transition temps, both may hold up for a while but will sag eventually especially if enclosed.
I agree, but to be fair I used PETG and PLA+ (sunlu, maybe their PLA+ is slightly more resistant to heat?) on two of my ender 3's cooling setups for over a year of pretty much 24/7 printing with no deformation whatsoever. I only changed when I enclosed all my printers to print ABS and nylon.
The heatsink doesn't get hot at all (if it does you have other issues) and the ducts should typically be far enough away from the heater block to not hit above about 50c, just hold your finger about 8mm from the heater block at 220c and you won't need to pull it away, that's an indication it's less than 60c at that distance.
instead of springs, you could put silicone spacers (mounts), they are much better and more temperature stable
I did that. They seem okay, but i do grow concern due to their nature of material that they may need replacing sooner than the springs. Not sure though only had mine for a few months so we will see
Is there a dual Z axis upgrade for the Ender 3 V2 NEO? The arrowhead shaped lead screw brace in the standard kit is the wrong shape for the Ender 3 V2 NEO.
For hotend, I'd go with a $7 Triangle Labs/POLIS3D thin-throat titanium heatbreak rather than replacing the whole thing. Easier job and better quality result. The other essential upgrade you missed is controller board (skr e3 mini with uart mode tmc2209s) and a sbc (eg rpi) for Klipper. This will make a far bigger performance difference than anything else you can do.
I went for the low hanging fruits first 😎 but Klipper is definitely on my list of furture upgrades. Thanks for the tips!
What sort of permormance will you see? I;m looking to make some furhter upgrades to my ender 3 pro. thx
What is an sbc? I swapped fans and nozzles and skr is next on my list.
@@Mr.McWatson Single board computer, typically a raspberry pi.
@@daliasprints9798 Ohh, the v2 can run those as well can't they?
Hey can you explain in a comment how you did the noctua fan upgrade in the hot end? ive seen so much conflicting info and having to print new shrouds. i want it JUST like yours and i cant find a good resource. Also great video!
Thank you! I used a 24V to 12V DC to DC converter. You can easily find them on Amazon. You have to wire it between your 24V board outlet and the 12V Noctua Fan. I hope that helps!
@@thebuildbay you need to be careful since apparently the noctua fans can’t provide enough cooling so you can have issues with heat creep.
How does all those upgrades compares in terms of costs vs benefits against a 3D printer of the same price of this printer plus upgrades ?
Majority are not worth it. By the time you've invested the money and effort you might as well just move to a higher end printer.
Unfortunately if you bought all this and a ender 3v2 or neo or even ender 3 pro on amzon you would well exceed the cost of a amazing printer like elegoo neptune 4 pro or ender 3v3 se or ke. And it will never print as nice as those printers. On the plus side these printers have more parts available than you can shake a stick at. And they are likely to be fixable for many years to come. I have a 3 pro, a 3v2 , 3v2 neo and sonic pad and all that. I mod them for fun but they are for tinkering. I think every one should own or start out on a ender 3 so they can fully understand how printers work. Then they will trully understand and appreciate a great printer. I own alot of printers but my go to is the elegoo neptune 4 pro. I dont try to print at 500mm/s either. I also print inside a enclosure. Thats probably the best upgrade. You can get a enclosure for $40 on amazon.
Would it be better to get the sprite extruded instead of all of the individual hotend/extruded upgrades
what is the firmware you are running that shows the mesh grapic on the machine UI? A lot of the early firmware for the e3v2 was very buggy with the BLtouch
I'm using Jyers Firmware. You can find the link in the description 😎
Nice, I bought a couple upgrades, just waiting for them to arrive, I wouild also like to know what type of screw driver you are using?
Nice! Upgrading is always fun! The screw driver is a super cheap one. I think I bought it at Aldi's 😂 but it gets the job done and you can easily change the bits
Bed insulation is good if you don't have an enclosure, replace the spring not with stronger springs but with silicone spacers, for dual axis you should add flexible couplers (because of z hop which is bad with ender motors), this version of creality spider is not the best for the price, get the newest one (e3d copy kinda). For real outside of that, using a blower fan will give you better results too...since cooling is with a lot of fluid (air in this case). They are all good upgrades tho ! Changing the extruder to a gear extruder will also change your quality of life for printing at average speed ! (no skipping)
It’s a dual gear extruder I have the same one your right about the no skipping
For the noctua fan what color cables go together when you convert into two?
Very helpful video. I currently have the ender v2 neo and its skipping. Do you recommend a all metal extruder or upgrading the motor for more torque to push the filament?
Hmm, did it start skipping out of nowhere or did you change some settings?
@@thebuildbay No I changed from PLA to PetG
@@mopar_shawn939 I see. Did you remember to set the right print and bed temperatur? It should be 245°C for the Nozzle and 70°C for the bed. If you are using 200°C as for PLA the printer might have a hard time pushing the PETG filament through the nozzle
@@thebuildbay ok that could be my problem. I was at 210 on the hotend
The remote end upgrades the proximal end to print a variety of materials, and the dual Z-axis reinforces the stability of the printer.
Do those heatsinks reduce a lot of heat? They look cool at the least! Also with just the heat shrink holding there wires together have you run into any issues? Love the video!
Thank you! To be honest, I haven't tried it without the heatsinks. Not sure how much they help reducing the heat. I agree they look cool though 😎
@@thebuildbaydoes it help make them any less quieter? Lol😂
It may slightly help with heat, but stepper motors can run perfectly safely at 100c, just don't touch them. If your stepper motors are running hot enough to require heatsinks then your voltage/amperage is too high.
One or two of the links don't work but the video also doesn't explain the need for each modification i.e. what is the real benefit of fitting the parts is and whether upgrading to a later model may be a better alternative.
I have a question when i was trying to change my hotend and blower fan, if i didint solder to new fan i can measure 24v on hotend fan and 2v blower fan. When i was solder new fans voltage droping and my fans arent turn can you help me
When you are changing the voltages on the mainboard I noticed the sleeping you used tidy the cables at the cutout of the frame. Can you please advise what tape you used. Thanks
Puh, sorry I can't remember the exact brand. It's a textile based isolation tape I bought of Amazon. I'm sure you will find a good one easily
why not orbiter or lgx lite?
My ender 3 pro is still stock apart from a z axis shim and fan cooling shroud I never have to adjust the bed or mess about with anything else and it just keeps working however its not very quick when you look at some of the newer stuff
Yes, the newer printers, like the Bambulabs are simply beasts compared to the Ender pinters...
im getting a item from amazon to upgate my ender 3v2
.....my fans i found out noctua makes 24v 40x40x 10mm fans for 3d printers and i hav not seen those 24v ons on the internet
what is the insulation for? just to help keep the bed from losing heat underneith? energy efficiency?
Exactly, it helps to keep the bed temperature more stable
Will the fan shroud work with any hotend compatible with the ender 3 like say a dawnblade since it uses the original mounting holes?
I can't promise that, as I designed the length of the shrouds specifically for the Spider Hotend. Any hotend that is longer or shorter might not fit...
Did you had any problem with bed temperature not beign the same?
I would assume the cutoff part from the insulation is probably always cooler than the rest.
Nope, not that I noticed
What are you doing at the V ref stage?
I am setting the right voltage for the Pancake stepper (which needs different voltage than the stock extruder stepper). And as I am using two steppers for the Z-Axis, I gave them more volts 🤘
So you did al these upgrading to stil print at the stock speed i have a stock ender 3 v2 an i do 65 mms prining speed
Good mods. Confused as to why you just cut the bowden tube instead of releasing it the way it was designed?
I tried, it was stuck and I was too lazy to heat up the hotend to get it out more easily 😉
WTF good upgrade i have just a ender v2 but i'm thinking about
I am interested in trying this shroud upgrade - To confirm, what voltages are you setting on the multi-meter for the E stepper / Z stepper and why ?
I am not sure about the exact numbers (you should see it in the video), but in general I am setting the voltage for the pancake E-stepper to get the best balance between pushing force and heat development. Reason being that a pancake stepper is less powerful than the stock E-stepper.
For the Z-Axis I did it, to get rid of some humming noises.
I am not sure about the exact numbers (you should see it in the video), but in general I am setting the voltage for the pancake E-stepper to get the best balance between pushing force and heat development. Reason being that a pancake stepper is less powerful than the stock E-stepper.
For the Z-Axis I did it, to get rid of some humming noises.
Should also install the Professional firmware.
will these fit the ender 3 v2 neo aswell
Hi mate, how did you wired the dual Z-axis motors? And does it need a voltage calibration?
The Dual Axis Kit comes with a Y-cable, which allows wiring to steppers to the one outlet of the mainboard. As two steppers are now pulling energy, I slightly increased the voltage. This also helped with a weird humming that occured after the install.
@@thebuildbay thanks for your answer mate, I bought Original kit yesterday. But how to increase the Z-axis stepper voltage? Is there a onboard circuit potentiometer on stepper driver boards?
@@thebuildbayI did a dual z stepper motor as well but I still have issues with the 2nd motor falling behind.
so my ender 3 max neo will turn itself off and on again mid print during a 30+ hour print. how to stop this from happening??
Any chance of a link to the fan shouds?
Absolutely! I have put all the links you need in the video description 😎
Thank you sir.
Just a pity that noctua fan is going to cause major heat creep, as the airflow of the 40x10 is very low. I know, been there done it .
T achete une ender s1 c est plus rapide ou alors le top rapport aux prix fonction elegoo neptune 3 plus
I've done all the mods here before watching. all great mods 100% the direct drive plate you used is a perfect option because it leaves so much room for extruder upgrades.
Now my complaints with these mods:
- ideally don't twist and tape wires
- Dual Z shouldn't be dual motor without a belt at the least. a belt kit alone is fine.
- The aluminum bed adjustment wheels are cool but heavier than the stock ones and the bed carriage is already very heavy
- for the bed foam you don't have to trim quite that much but not a complaint
I've since done 2 more severe mods to my ender 3 V2
- Hard mount the bed on a linear rail
- "true" dual z with 5th stepper driver mod
the lighter bed makes a big difference to go faster. "true" dual z is pointless just get a belted kit like the Ender 3 V3 SE/KE comes from the factory
edit: another thing I thought about you should do the mainboard fan mod stock it only comes on when the cooling fan is on (also frees up an extra fan header for the hotend)
What type of Grease is best used on the Z - Axis poles?
Good question! I ended up using the package that came with the upgrade kit...
My spider v1 build is a fail. I gotta create a fan shroud for the e3 neo
Would love to know how far you can push this printer now it's upgraded
Hey! I can comfortably print at 100m/s without the extruder skipping or having any other troubles. I haven't pushed it further, but I think there is more potential, e.g. by increasing print temp
nice machine !
Thank you!
What screws did you use for the hotend and thread inserts
I am using M3 Screws and Inserts. I bought both on Amazon. M3 Screws: amzn.to/3lsBbjY & Inserts: amzn.to/3FDEWde
I know I am late to the party.. But it would have been good to see it print before the upgrade and the same item after the mods.... Great video and appreciated....
True, but the quality didn't really change much, it's more the max print speed that received a major upgrade 🚀
the mods works on aV2 Neo? Thanks!
Some will definitely! I am not 100% sure regarding the dual fan hotend
Do you have a link to the magnets used in this?
Have a look my Thangs profile. You will the bill of materials with all links here: than.gs/m/776965
I heard an opinion, that this direct extruded setup is not really a serious thing, because it still has 4cm of a tube. What is your opinion on this and how it worked for you? Thank you.
So far I am quite happy with the setup. Stringing and oozing is not an issue anymore. I haven't tested TPU yet, but I am sure it will print way better than with a regualr bowden setup. Maybe there still is slight advantage with a "true" direct drive but I am sure this setup is close second.
Question: Since the Ender 3 V3 SE has been released, is it worth it to upgrade the Ender 3 v2, or would it be almost the same price to just get the V3 SE? I'm deciding what to do.
I would suggest doing the 2 v2 and upgrading since it'll be light and better js make sure you get bl or cr touch
What are your thoughts on dual lead screws VS dual belt drive?
So far I am quite happy with teh kit. I haven't tested belt drive though
@@thebuildbay have you seen a difference in the quality of the prints?
What is ur motherboard version
for the hotend conversion can I used ABS filament rather than PETG?
Absolutely, I think it is even better!
@@thebuildbay Thank you :D It's a nice looking hotend design!
I dont know If i would put aluminum bed leveling wheels they are quite a bit heavier then the stock plastic ones and there for increasing the beds inertial mass and slowing the speed you can produce accurate prints. It would bet better to apply a simple nut and 3d printed wheels and reduce weight. Just food for thought.
Good thinking! I will give it a try and see what the actual weight difference is 😎
I have an Ender 3 V2 and I am planning to buy CR-Touch and Dual Z Axis.
Searching videos about dual Z Axis I saw many people complaining that the 2 axis loose synchronization but they are 2-3 years old videos.
Is there any new firmware for V2 that supports dual Z axis sync or G34?
You are right, synchronization can be an issue. So far it seems to be working fine for me, but I will need to have an eye on it. For automated Z-leveling with G34 you will need to change the motherboard of your printer as you need two separated Z-Stepper drivers to compensate for misalignment. The easier way is to install a a timing belt between the two Z-Axis rods to force sychronization. I might do that as well....
@@thebuildbay ΤΗ3D has this pulley/belt tension kit but I cant find it anymore.
If you use it you run the dual Z axis with 1 motor .
it dont sync the second motor, just moves the 2nd screw but works fine.
Most people prefer this instead of dual motor.
Okay so we’re not going to solder or even crimp the wire splices. Sounds great.
If I replaced the hotend with creality latest spider hotend which can max upto 500 degree Celsius, will I be able to push the printer to 300+ degree Celsius printing. I mean is the ender printer capable of printing at temperatures higher than 300c if I use a 500c capable hotend on it?
Please guide.
I am want to use peek or PEI filament in it and the temperature they want is almost 360 to 400c .
I think you should consider getting a stronger heating cartridge. The standard is 40w. But I am pretty sure you will need one that goes 50+ watts
@@thebuildbay The firmware being used is going to make a difference, as well - "off the shelf" Marlin won't let you request (never mind actually get to) temps higher than 235C, if I'm not mis-remembering. You can change the configs and recompile/flash to the printer to get around that limitation, but if you're going to Klipper or Jyers or Mriscocs, I believe those come with "higher temp capability" already baked in. Having a higher wattage heater won't do a bit of good if the firmware won't allow temps above "X" degrees. If the firmware allows, though, a higher wattage heater will definitely speed up reaching that higher temp, and help stabilize it once it gets there (needs "smaller nudges" from the PID loop, which translates to less oscillation around the set-point)
Hi, I did the editing with the basic hotend but The fan ducts are too low it's not good. Do you have a solution?
I understand you took my design and applied it to the orginial hotend? That does not work, as my design is designed for the Spider Hotend, which is longer than the original hotend. You could try the original design, based on which I designed my hotend: grabcad.com/library/mbot3d-mk2_rev2-0-ender7-style-fan-duct-1 I hope that helps!
@@thebuildbay
hi, of course thanks you very much 👍
What gcode do you use for your prints?
I am using the Prusa Slicer
5:48 what tool are you using in this clip?
It is a regular soldering iron. The easiest way to insert threaded inserts into your 3D prints.
Linear rails and Ferrules.....maybe Klipper + accelerometer
Is the nozzle size for the spider hotend different ?
The length of the nozzle is different, the thread is the same though. It comes with a 0,4 and 0,6 nozzle diameter. I hope that helps
I just don't get it - why you had to adjust the voltage for stepper motors?
For the extruder stepper, to get the most power out of the motor without it overheating. For the dual Z stepper, to reduce some electrical motor humming, which apparently was induced by the two steppers running on one stepper driver with the stock voltage
@@thebuildbay thanks for the answer! 😄
Just got mine 100 bucks hopefully it works ok 👍🏽
I'm sure it will. Happy printing!
same micro center dealllll
Is it not cheaper and easier to buy a better printer to start with?
This printer is already very expensive and I've bought all the upgrade sna dits only 160 so nah
@@aidenkahn4338 I'm surprised, because you've basically spent all that and still haven't got to the Ender 3 V3 SE spec.
@@frankhovis well the v2 was a gift from my grandma before she passed so I have some bias on keeping it ♥️♥️
Should have gone with the solid Silicon "Spring" upgrade.
What is bed insulation supposed to do? Asking out of ignorance.
It helps with keeping the bed temp stable and maybe even save a couple of watts. It was a cheap tweak, so I gave it a shot 😉
does the Ender 3 v2 Neo already have these upgrades?
I don't think so, but you should be able to do the same of similar upgrades to your V2 Neo
Why do you change the E motor, but not the extruder gears? Little motors have very little torque, so maybe they work fine in certain conditions, but most to ensure they always push the filament in a consistent manner, they'd need a set of gears to up that torque 🥴🥴🥴
That was my thinking aswell, but the significantly higher flow of the Spider Hotend seems to compensate for the lack of torque quite well. Also setting the best possible vRef without the E-Stepper overheating did it's part. Test printing at 100+ mm/s worked without skipping 😎
I don't see the point of the heavier levelling knobs. Just excess weight on the already heavy Y axis.
Which software version u use in it ?
I am using the latest version of Jyers Firmware in this config: E3V2-UBL-BLTouch-10x10-HS-v4.2.2-v2.0.1. You can find it here: github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases
Thx !
Would this work if I replaced the spider hotend with a phaetus dragobfly but kept everything else the same?
Not sure about that. You would have to compare the dimensions of both hotends. These are the Spider's dimensions: c-3d.niceshops.com/upload/image/product/large/default/creality-spider-hotend-1-pc-449669-en.jpg I am also not sure if the Fan Duct which I designed for the Hotend Fan would fit the Phaetus...
And would it work if I replaced the extruded with an orbiter v2? Thanks for your responses
Extruder*
It looks like the dragonflies dimensions are a good amount smaller than the spider would it still work?
Same answer...it is made specifically for the Spider's dimensions. If a hotend is close to those, it might fit. However, I am currently working on a version for E3D's Revo CR Hotend. Maybe that is a better fit for your needs. I suggest following me on Thangs to get notified when I upload it: thangs.com/designer/TheBuildBay
oddly enough, i just bought a spider before seeing this video, printed the custom head you have and it doesnt fit, the nozzle itself sits too high into the head... i've printed 5 different "spider" heads and every single one is the same, the nozzle sits to high and the fan exhaust touches the bed instead...
Hmm, that's weird! Did you buy the same version of the spider hotend, as there are at least 3 iterations? The fan shroud is designed for the first version
Why do you cut off the PTFE tube? You could just remove the pin and pull it out😢
Just a guess, but I'd say he cut the tube to use the short piece as the connector for the direct drive mod.
Silent mod I did is so much quieter
I love this upgraded got most of the stuff except a different hot end. Issue I ran into was the hot ended is barely touching the plate any recommendations on this? I really love this design. And do you recommend a bit connecter for the fans?
I assume the issue could be, that the fan shroud etc. was specifically designed for the Spider hotend. As it is a bit longer than the stock model, this could be the reason it does not touch the build plate...
Why go direct drive and then use a massive bowden tube in the top?
The white bowden tube at the top is part of my filament drybox 😎
Only thing I've done to my E3V2 is microswiss hotend, all metal extruder, silicone bed spacers and jyers firmware.
Runs flawlessly.
what firmware?
I'm using Jyers firmware. I can really recommend it 🚀
I've done none of this to my 3 year v2 which I have two of .they both print reliably and consistently All I've done is put on a flex bed and capricorn tubing .I build it straight I regularly check the angles .I print pla lw pla and petg and tpu without issues .Tinkering is another facet of hobby . I have no interest in ( don't hate ) I'd rather spend the time setting machine up correctly. BUT RESPECT your opinion .
Out of all of this the springs were the best upgrade. The rest blah. Maybe just do a sprite pro
bruh i wish i could set my printer up like this
Just give it a try and learn along the way 💪
I did the best upgrade, I got rid of it and got Bambu Lab P1P. I found out I just want to design and print stuff, not to tinker and chase the problems.
Yup, I agree! The Bambulab printers are on another level. But isn't tinkering half of what makes the fun of 3D printing 😎?
@@thebuildbay The definition of fun is relative, I didn't find it fun when I spend $200 and it didn't solve the problem. 😅
@@thebuildbay - I love the tinkering aspect of it - but I get it, many just wanna print shit. I had nothing but problems with an Ender myself. X1C now. 😅
Than you just screw yourself into a corner.
You got better machine but in closed ecosystem.
Good luck fixing or finding the parts.
Next time just buy Voron
@@BOTmaster15 Are you serious? A person who can't make Ender 3 work reliably should build a Voron?! Lol!
might want to remove that noctua fan, poor cooling
Unintentional ASMR?