Ender 3 Pro Z-axis binding (not the fix I thought it was going to be)
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I upgraded my Ender 3 to a Hemera hot end. Afterwards, the Z axis was binding and the calibration cube had a bulge in it. There's a really common fix for this issue: shim out the z axis stepper motor. That wasn't the problem on my Ender 3 Pro though. It was something completely different.
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One of the best mods I did to my Ender 3 was to drill a hole on the extrusion so I can loosen / tighten the inner of those two screws without having to remove the whole X gantry. Then you just loosen it, use something square (like a rigid box) to align it with the bed, then retighten. And done!
Appreciate all the 3d printing content you make.....keep it up.
Literally just figured this out before you released this. My work had me setup a bender 3 and was so embarrassed by the quality of prints a d time it took for me to setup and get good prints. My first ended 3 was turnkey. You seem to be a mind reader Joshy thank you for that
I was getting very frustrated with those lines on my prints, then I found your video and now I'm printing flawlessly! Thanks!
Fpv and 3d printing go hand in hand! Thank you for sharing! 🙏
I randomly started getting artifacts in my prints and have been slowly finding issues here and there but I'm glad I stumbled upon your video, my axis is loose there too!
Haven't performed the tightening yet but definitely hoping this will be the needed fix!
I had this problem for so long. When I saw your video explaining this. I was certain this was exactly my binding problem. And thanks to you my ender 3 finally print great!!! 🙏🙏👍
This video helped me out to realize that actually my Z motor was loose (able to see once I took away the X axis out, Z bolt/motor completely loose). Thank you!
Just upgraded to a Microswiss NG and have been tearing my hair out for the last 2 weeks trying to fix this. Thank you!
Damn I like that camera quality and color grading. Very clean!
Glad to see you got to the root of the problem. Z axis problems can be tricky.
BTW, be careful when spinning the stepper motors by hand. If you notice in your display the screen comes on every time you spin the motor and that can actually fry the control board. Just don't spin it too fast or unplug the motors. Same can happen when moving the bed by hand. Just an FYI.
100% this. Unplug motors when manually moving.
Wow, never knew that. I do that semi often. Thanks for the tip
One of the benefits of having a dual lead screw setup for the z-gantry and a mainboard with five stepper motor drivers is you can enable auto-z-alignment (G34) if you have a BLTouch or similar too. I've just set my SV01 up with that and it's fantastic. Works great. Maybe something for you to look into for your SV01 and maybe Ender at some point down the line @Joshua Bardwell?
Usually don’t come to you for anything but drone advice but I just got a new similar printer and having the same problem so hope this fixes it for me. Thanks!
You'll wanna run the linear advance calibration patterns if youre swapping to direct extrusion. Helps clean up prints quite a bit.
Josh your a star my bracket was not level one side you saved me some time about z banding got 6 printers and the ender 3v2 now sorted took me a while to do it but it works a dream now.
Bravo! This completely solved my z binding! Thank you very much!
ThNk you good looking out!!
Dual z steppers were a game changer for my ender 3!
Watch Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors for a proper setup on that X gantry, sir. Mine is rock solid after following his advice - but it doesn't need "tight" wheels on the right. It is all about getting the left wheels and screw set up to hold the gantry perfectly level - *independent* of the right side. Then finger-tight the right side and you are done.
Dude this comment saved my life
The gantry sags in relation to the table but NOT to the bed because the bed is leveled to it.
Yup, the more weight on the x-gantry, the more it exposes the flaws in the setup.
My first ender 3 has slightly twisted extrusions for the z, which causes the x-gantry to bind a touch. Ended up resolving it by switching that one to full rail system and dual z.
My other Ender 3s don't have that issue thankfully.
Note: While rare, it is possible to pop your stepper driver by turning the stepper motor when powered off to fast. I did this on my extruder by removing filament with it still caught in the grip.
My next step is to sit a ruler on top of the X gantry and measure on both the lead screw side and opposite side to the top of the extrusion. I do this in 3 places at appx 50mm ( could be any number really) this is to make sure both sides are within 1mm ( my personal tolerance) this yields good results. Do this without the top bar in case you need to remove the X, It may take a couple tries. If I just line up the bracket with the screws along the extrusion like JB shows I get a 4-6mm sag from lead screw side to opposite side so I scribe a mark on the extrusion as a reference and adjust from there.
TH3D (great small 3d printing parts company out of Indiana, with fantastic customer service) They have a pretty easy dual z setup for about $70 (cheaper versions "influenced' by it on Amazon,not that I support that) It uses a belt system instead of dual z motors, so it's easier on your board drivers than other setups that split the z motor wires 2 ways (read : adding additional draw to a board not that great to begin with)
Another thing to check is the lead screw backlash nut. It should not be super tight,but allow the lead screw very slight play, especially if it's not perfectly straight. I definitely recommend TH3d upgraded anti backlash nut, at the very minimum. Well worth the 10 bucks.
i know its not really your thing....but i still love all the 3d printing content, you do an excellent job with it
When you was winding your Z axis, you was back powering your stepper driver, which is why your LCD back light was powering on. Its a real risk to pop the drivers. You should disconnect your steppers if your going to do that.
Thanks for the video. Ive got a problem with my initial layers over extruding and I think it might be down to this.
I had the same problem on my E3V2, I ended up moving to a dual-z-axis setup, using 2 motors. This created a problem in that when the motors turned off, the z-axis on both sides would settle, and go out of level. I had previously installed an SKR V1.4 Turbo mainboard, it has an extra stepper driver, so I was able to connect each z-axis motor to a separate driver, and then I used Klipper's z_tilt_adjust (you can do the same with Marlin using G34) so now it automatically levels side to side before each print. Michael (Teaching Tech) has a video on several different methods of going dual z-axis, and setting up G34 in Marlin
Oh my god, i spent 6 hours yesterday, 2 hours today. This was the fix! Thank you!
I think this just solved my biggest headache with my Ender. Been working around it for years.
Happy flying!
Love my Ender 3 pro …. Great platform and community
Pretty interesting! Thanks a lot, Joshua! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Also had an issue with the Z-axis bar on my Ender 3-Pro, but it was the left side, eccentric nut that was too tight and the wheel couldn't rotate as well as it should. Loosened the eccentric nut a couple of turns and the wheel turned a lot easier. Problem was solved. Have seen only one video that suggest adjusting the left side, eccentric nut. Hope this helps. Maybe I'll record a video showing what I did to fix my issue. Cheers
I did the dual z rod modification as soon as I got my ender 3 pro and only had to level the gantry once. Still good to go a year and hundreds of prints later 👍 just my two cents🤙
I own four printers to include two Ender 3's. they are the most popular printer for a reason. You do have to upgrade them in order for them to really be good machines.
Love my ender 3 but found it alot better having the spool on a separate spool holder, its less weight on the printer itself
Thanks for the ender vid!
You need the dual z axis to properly fix this problem...The upgrade kit isn't expensive and long term, it's well worth doing...🤔🤔😯😀🇬🇧🇬🇧
I have the CR10s, has dual z axis as standard, but stil had z binding because one of the screws was totaly loose. So it doesnt fix it. But now I know how to solve it won't take 5 hours and a lot of failed prints to fix it
You should try something like the Zesty Nimble V3, it's supposed to get you all the benefits of a direct drive extruder without the added weight... haven't tried it myself tho
Hi Joshua, I am thinking of adding a counterweight using some steel wire and pulleys. This will work to cancel out the heavier direct drive. Even on a standard ender 3 you can feel the motor working a lot harder to lift the x axis up. I just built my ender 3 v2, and have not even powered it on, but from looking at the gantry this will be one of my first mods.
The bolts holding the wheels with the eccentric nuts will be an ideal spot for attaching the cable. From there you can run the cable upwards over one or two pulleys and it should not be in the way.
Why add a counterweight? There are established ways of dealing with the sagging X-gantry, such as a 2nd lead screw driven by a belt or a 2nd Z axis stepper motor. It just seems like the counterweight method will add weight to the gantry unnecessarily.
Joshua - you said you would start putting the actual answer in the video title, not leading questions ;) also - those gantry screws are installed by the user, not Creality - I’ve assembled probably 40 of these as my time working as a 3d printing tech. 99% of times Z binding on the ender is: improperly tensioned elliptical nuts, those screws, or the Z axis motor being overtight on its mount. A little play in the axis is ok and shouldn’t affect print quality.
There isn't any question in this title. 😉
@@JoshuaBardwell well you know what I mean :p subtitle should be “loose x axis gantry screws”. Loving the content as always! Thanks for putting this out there. I directed, voiced over and was the builder on the 3dprintingcanada ender 3 instructional video (425k views).
IMO the Hemera doesn't offer as much of an upgrade as the Mosquito or Dragon over using the much cheaper Trianglelabs E3dV6 with upgraded bi-metal or titanium heatbreak.
You really want that smaller throat and larger heating area through the heating block. The one-handed nozzle change is nothing to kick out of bed either.
Yo you absolutely want the dual z-axis lead screw, I used both parallel stepper motors with a timing belt and I get great results with a dial indicator on my 123 blocks and plate
I've got that hot end on my Ender3, I fitted a bl touch, a big tree tech board with TMC drivers. It's now super quiet and it prints great.
I'd look at doing a controller/driver upgrade, the standard creality board is crap.
Yeah. Switched to TMC2209 on Sidewinder X1 and it surprised me how much quieter it got. Another great steps to silencing the printer were adding Raspberry Pi to run Klipper on it, and replacing the case fan with an 80mm PWM noctua fan, controlled by an arduino - to only make it run when the case temps reach a certain point. Now if I print at normal to slower speeds, the printing is just dead quiet.
JB so Cool! I just bought an Ender 3 Pro. I haven't printed anything yet. Can't get the bed leveled.
you're like a young irv shapiro and i love it
This was cool mate.
Unplug your stepper motors when tinkering...so you don't make that screen flash ..then more problems . Good vid 👍
I'm about to put an Orbiter on mine, which is pretty much as light as the hotend is gonna get with a direct drive extruder. That's all I'm gonna do to the Ender 3, though - next up is a CoreXY printer.
4:00 look how the screen flashing. EMF generated in the motor. Should have disconnect the Z motor.
The initial build wasnt square, plumb, and true.
Curious if a steel frame base welded together would show the same sag.
Which mounts did you use for the Hemera on your Ender 3 pro? Also what fans and cooling duct? Been trying to find a good solution
Thank you so much you saved me
3D printing stuff is good. I have a prusa mini but enjoy anything related to 3D printing in the RC hobby
More interested in SOVOL content, as I listened to you and bought a SOVOL SV01
I've been having slight Z axis binding on the lower 2-3" of my ender 3 v2, after watching this I had a quick feel while it's printing, and it's definitely not straight with the bar like you mentioned. I'll have to look into that. Prints aren't showing any artifacts, but still has been concerning me as far as wearing out V rollers. Thank you!
I have recently got the V2 and did not finish setting it up because I noticed the same binding on the Z axis, and something seemed of. Did you managed to fix this issue?
@@bogdanbradu3137 it did get noticably better, still gets a little tight near the bottom of the z axis but not nearly as bad as it was. For not showing any print artifacts, I have easily put 250 hours on my printer in the last month pre-adjustment without any visible wear to the v rollers(even though this was my main concern for wanting to fix the issue, not sure how long they're expected to last though)
Nice printer !
Thank, good to know!
ayyyyeee you upgraded the hotend :) .. cheap dual z single motor options out there will help you and is pretty easy to install honestly. (now try nylonx :P)
Are you using tape to hold your print bed down? Totally don't do that, use some buffalo clips. Tape isn't secure enough to stop the bed slipping, especially during faster prints
Thank you!!!
Aaaaaand this is why I will not own a 3D printer. As much as I am a tinker and perfectionist as my many quads will show, I really can't imagine adding a 3D printer and its issues to my plate as well, I may just go mad..lol..But great content Joshua, you rock!
I have this problem with mine and I have added the second z-axis drive and leadscrew. The whole wheel adjustment thing is a pain but just need to spend time tweaking it.
Thank you for this video, I'm brand new to 3d printing and I am still a bit lost, but noticed my first test print went bad... the Z-axis barely moves up from off the bed and I hear the motor "clicking" as it can't seem to move. I'm hoping your solution here is the trick.
Thank you
You should try the biqu h2 hotend
Nice video 👍🏻
Thank you JB, That is an issue I am having with my printer, because of the play in the z axis, I can't level my bed properly, im going to try what you just did... Thank you...
The x axis will always have a little sag but it shouldn't be so much you can't level the bed.
I just recently installed an orbiter extruder to my cr-10 mini which only ways 150g. It works like a charm.
Maybe that is an option over the dual z axis?
nice washing machine on the right in the video @Joshua Bardwell
I dont use direct drive, just Capricorn tube and geared drive to print tpu
What the heck.... Been flying quads for like 6 years and all of a sudden I get Joshua on my TH-cam search results for a 3Dprinter issue I've been having... that's so very odd, seeing your face but on a totally different subject. I had to pause a moment to switch context ... did I... no ... yes... I'm doing printer stuff at the moment.... not quads...? What? Oh .... alright... lets go!
I’ve been having a similar problem but the lines are constant and when I print more than one piece the lines are identical on each part and are incredibly thick compared to others
That thumbnail! It's a FLUX CAPACITOR 🤯
Hey Joshua, I noticed when you were reinstalling the x Gantry your printer screen flashed on, this is because the stepper motors are generating electricity due to being spun manually and this can be harmful to your printer, whenever moving parts of your printer manually just try to do so slowly to avoid this Happy printing!
I was just about to type this and thought someone else would likely beat me to it, so glad I checked the comments first and thanks for posting to warn others too.
The hemera is a massive heavy beast. The ender 3 was never designed for a really heavy direct drive mounted on its gantry.
I think you're probably right, and a dual Z is called for. I just wanted to have installed the Hemera once before I did it on the Sovol.
I need help I have a problem with my drone I have mounted it by parts and replaced the motors by better ones and the plate matek 405 by a new esc are racerstar 30a I do not know what happens to him but when I put the battery of 3s flies well but with battery of 4s makes noise and goes crazy AYUFA PLEASE
I am amazed that was the problem😅
“should probably unplug the machine” first… I’ve been known to work on mine while it was printing :)
same 💀🤣
i added a second z axis to my ender 3 max. a project best done if you have a second decent quality printer in the first place. and a set of nema 14 motors, and the ability to design a bracket to 3d print because i couldn't find one... haha
I had this problem and couldn’t fix it I installed the direct drive kit but it’s not printing right not sticking
I think the kit for the ender 3 is 50$ on amazon to make dual z axis
JB. You taught me how to fpv. Please help me learn to tram mu printer bed!
Hey job it’s not that some have that problem I believe those are cloned that’s not to spec my first one had that issue bad I ordered off Amazon then I ordered from Creality itself and not an issue
It's a legit creality I assure you
@@JoshuaBardwell I truly agree but I’m curious as to the resale company having the defects vs from Creality to be not that bad if you get what I’m saying or just a lot of screws come lose during shipping due to conveyor belts 💁🏾
My ender 3 v2 started making weird knocking sounds and layer shifting like crazy, as far as I know it`s the controller board overheating as a few people have the same issue,quite annoying that i need to buy the newer version board after only 4 months of use,it prints like shit now
Direct Drive for TPU anyway is the best.
Now I watch you to learn how to fix drones AND 3D printers
Ok, I just can't with your "Zeee" pronunciation.😂
Not elíptico nut, it's an eccentric nut
If you create bilinear bed level and run jeyers firmware no mods needed. Over egging the pudding as usual my man. Interesting u didn’t do that when u built it. Dual z axis opens up more problems also unless it has two outputs and and u run gcode g34 and level axis first
Sorry but I respectfully disagree. Not sure how bed level can handle Z axis binding in the middle of a print but open to being educated. And my SV01 has dual Z axis with single output and has been flawless.
@@JoshuaBardwell so what happens when one side drops and with no g35 command to level beam it’s useless. Stopping binding is easy
If the beam goes un-level then the G29 three point tilt compensation will catch it, right? Regardless, the dual Z-axis mod solves binding mid print, which is a separate issue from what G34 solves. G34 won't solve mid-print binding either.
I am putting a dual z axis on my Ender 3 Pro
you still use it till now ? 🙈
Leveled the bar incorrectly.
Do it. 2nd lead screw.
I just got back into 3d printing and got confused seeing your video on 3d printer. So weird.
Are your by chance related to Mr cannucks lol
You need a prusa…
Joshua, abandon those manual bed level FDMs, Jesus... my life changed after auto bed level ones lol
Thanks. I have bltouch on both of them :-)
Jorge Sprav? ender 3, let me show you it's *features,* mha-ha-ha!
I'll stick with my mars pro
Elliptical = Eccentric
Yeah that
@@JoshuaBardwell Nit picking. Great video. Also recommend using Luke's guide as well. There are full chapters on all this stuff. Doing a x-axis rework is a good idea when you notice issues arise. Same thing with squaring up the y (leaning prints are a major indicator).