Stop Ender 3 Stringing with this One Weird Trick! (ok but seriously)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- I solved the stringing issues plaguing my Ender 3 Prints with a bit of help from the 3D Printing Community. This video is an important follow up to my Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro Reviews.
Join the Maker's Muse Community - www.makersmuse.com/maker-s-mu...
Cura settings for the Ender 3 provided by @ChazMeister2 - goo.gl/vnsQWx
My new Simplify3D and ideaMaker profiles for the Ender 3 (will be updated as they are tweaked and improved - enter '0' to download for free) - gum.co/ZrffZ
Chuck's findings - • Cura Settings for Retr...
Stringing Test .stl file - www.thingiverse.com/thing:245...
Purchasing your First 3D Printer Course - www.makersmuse.com/purchasing...
HUGE thanks to ChazMeister for proving this was possible so I had the encouragement to tweak settings further and get the results. Appreciate it man.
50 3D Printing Tips and Tricks - gumroad.com/l/QWAh
3D Printing Essentials - www.amazon.com/shop/makersmuse - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I know this is no ordinary channel, but a youtuber saying "Ok sorry i was wrong, this advise was awesome" this days is so rare. Keep the awesome work and keep making! Best wishes!
Definitely not rare, you should start surrounding yourself with different people. lol
@@RedRider7240 not rare but admirable
Without the fake turning on the camera, "uncut" thing... yes. Apologies are very rare
Can't agree. There is a whole lot to this subject that isn't on offer here because of the omniscience factor.
I completely agree. I am tired or arrogant TH-camrs, and have unsubscribed from many, and have subscribed to this one because of that fact (and the content, of course). Proof you can have a great, HONEST channel and NOT be arrogant. Kudos.
"Such a small change, can result in such a significant difference".
is the most complete resume of my cura experience.
In the source code it's called moveInside, but I guess we never made a specific frontend setting for it. Combing is the Cura term for avoiding crossing boundaries (because instead of crossing the boundary, you comb along it), but the fact that this feature automatically turns off when combing is off is just a side product of how moveInside was implemented.
Anyway it's nice to hear you like our feature.
Cheers
Underrated comment!
That feature is the reason why out of the box my Ender 3 Pro impressed me with every print I ran. Keep up the cool work!
Props to you dev guys
Thank-you. I wish if there was a video explanation for this..
There are so many 'variables' in 3D printing, it's a wonder we get as much success as we do.
It's precisely why I haven't xD
I am more amazed with the fact that we are able to build consumer-technology (well prosumer maybe, in some cases) this precise....
@@Dutch3DMaster Yep, desktop publishing and later desktop video seem the closest analogs to all this, and they required the development of not only the right hardware tools, but also the right software 'tools'. And that's apparently what's needed now in consumer 3D printing, which often still seems barely past the eras of dot-matrix printers & MS-DOS!
@@matonmongo And still, the price-point at which you can get an Ender 3 Pro is astonishingly low (though I always keep in mind how the mass production of these things make them cheap, sort off).
I mean, the first Ultimaker was incredibly expensive as well, and the second version still is, but the improvements over the first are very big.
So, yea, we might not be at the inktjet-printer stage yet, but things will get better over time :).
@@Dutch3DMaster True, though dunno whether that 'cheap' tradeoff these days from Made In China is always necessarily an improvement in the ongoing 'evolution', especially while we're still in the 'development' stages! A lot of the issues surrounding 'standards' were once much easier to agree on, when they were still relatively confined to the 'domestic' markets. ;-)
Love that you are willing to retract your previous statements and admit when you are wrong. This is, IMO, part of what makes a great content creator. Love the channel, keep it up.
Liked his retraction-settings too ;)
I was about to make the same comment. Angus practices what he preaches which is why I like him so much!
Very big kudos for the willingness to correct the previous statement. You gained a follower. 😀👍
How was he wrong? Why does someone have to be WRONG? He and now WE know something we didn’t until now. You are a social justice warrior aren’t you?
@@jasonvoorhees9585 I see what you mean. He simply didn't test cura, and to be fair, who would have thought that was the difference. His statement, as far as he knew, was right. To listen to the feedback and check again, and then retract the previous statement that he now know is wrong is very good though.
LOL, I have an Ender 3 as my first printer. I usually have flawless prints and now I realize that it's because I just randomly selected a bunch of options in Cura on day 1 that sounded cool and they happened to make the printer work perfectly.
how it feels to use a 3d printer
Couldn’t be more true lol
Ya but learning to print without over supporting saves filament and time👍
the more i tweak mine the more issues i have
Can send settings?
I recently started printing with an Ender 3 Pro, my first 3D printer. I've had a pretty good experience with it so far. I appreciate the effort you put into gathering the information you shared with us in this video; very helpful. Thank you!
I bought an Ender3 a year ago, and I really appreciate how you're drilling down into this printer.
They all have their strings and weaknesses.
Lol..
Strings? Oh, you're just extruding my leg.
@@licensetodrive9930 you mean your hairy leg ? only one hairy leg (not 2) ???
thats it. cmon get out. out! in this house we obey the laws of comedy
My bed is warm and ready =B
Great follow up Angus. Its quite interesting seeing the strengths and weakness of different slicers when faced with different tests. Glad you made this video to inform people of your findings.
Changing your mind publicly shows lot about your personal ethics. I've always enjoyed your videos and your opinions always carry weight with me. This just makes that even more likely. Your value to the entire community cannot be overstated. Cheers m8, and thanks.
Thanks for the S3D profile. I just got an Ender 3 (my 4th printer) and it's nice to have a known good profile to work from.
I really appreciate this video Angus. It clearly demonstrates the unbiased approach you take to the videos you create. Thank you!
I've used Cura exclusively for my slicing (though not usually my supports) on my Ender 3 and Geeetech A10 for a while and I totally agree. The retraction and combing clean it up very nicely. I'm currently using Duramic 3d whenever possible as I've found their PLA to be top notch quality, even though their selection is a little thin.
Thank you for your videos. I started following you years back to get help printing some models for a museum exhibit. I was able to print what I needed then and you are helpful again today.
Oh my word. Not sure what I did to my Ender 3v2, but it was a string machine. Was losing my mind. My initial run of the stringing bench file included with your video, looked like a frickin' tennis net between the posts. Loaded up the Chaz-tastic profile you linked to, sliced the two post file, and holy red foley, the posts are way smoother and ZERO strings. That profile mind as well gave me a brand new printer. Wish I could include a before and after pic. THANK YOU!! I'm gonna sleep well tonight!
Oh! I reduced the post height by about 60%. Printed much quicker. If it's gonna string, it's gonna string, so don't need the entire height of the posts. :)
Haven't watched you in months and now I realize how I missed that "Let's get started" and "Catch you later, guys. Bye." of yours.
Angus, your hairs are starting to do some stringing, you may need to change the setting to the hairy lion print (maybe more hairdryer) but ok you look fine anyway :-) edit: edit: I appreciate you Angus, keep being rigorous
LMAOOOO TFF!
poor man. he must have seen all the comments last time!
What happened to the comments?
Increase comb speed
Thank you for re-examining this and responding. Videos like this do more to generate trust and confidence in content and opinion than anything else and I am very grateful to see it. Keep up the great vids and may your prints never fail. :)
Good on ya for your growth and humility. I've learned more from your channel than any other. I have one of the few Solidoodle Workbench machines received RIGHT before the Soli-pocalypse and a smaller printer. With your help I got the Solidoodle working flawlessly. THANKS!
This Chazmiester is a genuine Genius, it works! 😁 Thanks so much for this video!
Things often look worse with Z-Hop enabled because it disables both wiping and combing (because it goes up and away, counter to how wipe and combing work). So it helps avoid collisions, but wiping the nozzle over the print really helps avoid stringing.
Worked like a charm Angus! Thank you ChazMeister.
Its awesome that you had the wisdom to err on the side of skepticism in the first video and then change your mindset in the light of new information. Respect. Keep up the good work!
I really enjoy the way your mindset is open to the fact that the mistake might have been on your side and not the printer and how you apologize to creality and followers! I also liked how you decided to test this out. Smart people are always open to critics while the stupid ignorant ones always thinks they know it all! This says alot about personality and makes your videos more educational and thrustworthy. Keep up the good work, and thanks alot for the "education" :-D
I've been using combing mode on my prints (Rostock Max 3.2) here for the last few days, and I have noticed that stringing has reduced quite a bit. Hadn't put two and two together though, but it's clear that combing is helping wipe the nozzle as it goes.
Not to mention it makes prints actually go a lot faster, as retractions can sometimes add up to 40% or more of total print time.
Cheers
This is brilliant, I've been watching a few videos, yours and others', to understand stringing, and I'd just learned about wiping, but to see your analysis was so helpful: coming to it from the generated code vs. just some settings in a menu is brilliant, I hadn't really thought about that approach. It's so obvious once I see it in action... thank you!!!
Have an old Ender 3 v2 that I was about ready to dump and used the attached settings through cura and it is now printing so smooth and clean it's like laying paint. Awesome fix mate
Thought my CR-10S was squeaking in the background until I realized there were birds chirping and tweeting in the videos background! :D Good video though, keep it up!
xD yes me 2
I have a confession: I've been leaching info from your channel without subscribing, but you've convinced me to push that sub button today with your honesty and hard work in presenting this useful info. Cheers!
I learned a lot from this, and your humility is refreshing. Thank you.
Love the detailed analytics again Angus, thanks. Helps debunk & confirm the many experiments I've done. One day I'll find Utopian settings :D
Prusa hates him! See this weird trick!
What trick?
🤣😂
@@StephenBoyd21 r/woosh
@@sambarnes1226 hehehehe, Right??
* Prusa *HATES* him!!!!
Great video!
The tricky physics of controlling a molten sticky viscous fluid. There's an art to getting it to behave just right and no one way will work for every print.
Let's hit that 1M ! Been following you for years !! Keep at the amazing video!!! Getting more people to join your channel
Just started using S3D on my ender 3. Your profile seems atm to be better than what I've seen from the creawesome mod and I have gotten great results from that. Thank you and nice work!
I think that your torture tree would benefit from a different form of z-hop. In Cura, the z-hop is called "z-hop when retracted" or something like that. Instead of doing the z-hop at the retraction time, I think a "z-hop when crossing over outer perimeters from the exterior side only" would help. I find that the nozzle can escape a curled fine feature from the inside-out but when it tries to move from the outside to the interior of a curled feature that is when the nozzle catches the edge and tweaks the feature. This way, the nozzle would only raise/hop when trying to get over the features where it catches, but it will still wipe and retract the way it does that gave you the great results in the video with z-hop disabled.
Wait is this an option in Cura?
I was saying I think it should be an option, not that it is (as far as I know). I was suggesting it as an improvement. I am sorry if my wording implied it was already an option.
@@USWaterRockets Actually, I think I found it. Z-Hop Only Over Printed Pats.
Description: Only preform a Z Hop when moving over printed parts which cannot be avoided by horizontal motion to avoid printed parts when traveling.
That sure sounds like what you are describing. The only question I would have is the 'ONLY' part of the description. Is it saying that it will do the Z Hop only when traveling to a printed part or will it Z Hop at the retraction move and then again at the exterior wall at the end of the travel move?
Maybe we should analyze the g-code movements like Angus does in the video and see if it's possible to figure out what it does. This sounds similar, but it may still hop at the start of the move, leaving the string/blob. The motion I had in mind was to hop over the printed part as the nozzle got close. The standard z-hop lifts as the extrusion completes and then moves over to where the next extrusion is to start and then lowers. I was looking for something that only lifts close to the perimeter it has to cross to get on top of a previously printed layer that may be curled on the edge.
USWaterRockets z-hop for me caused some splits in my models
14:18 I seriously felt a connection there 🥺
Thank you
This video show maturity and I'm proud I am a subscriber
Hi Angus, thank you so much for this video. And thank you @ChazMeister2 for giving us this awesome solution. I used this right from the get go when I received my Ender 3 v2 and I have had no stringing whatsoever. I am so impressed with that printer.
I feel that a combination of retract while combing and z-hop is the current best route to eliminate stringing for most common prints. What we truly need is the ability to retract and hop after the wipe motion has occurred. This should eliminate stringing for parts where z-hop is required due to thing features curling up around the edges.
Another solution would be to incorporate a ramp option for z-hop where we can set a horizontal distance over which the hop takes place and have the ramp always go towards infill just like combing. If z hop could have a timing configuration option in this scenario that could also be very useful e.g. Wait X milli-seconds after retract before hopping.
Just some ideas, feel free to expand or if this is already possible please inform me how.
The reason Cura produces that stringing with z-hop enabled on the towers is simple because the combing relies on 'cleaning' the nozzle moving from the inside of the tower to the outside. With S3d you an also throw 'coasting' in the equation (also helpful for bowden extruders) to reduce stringing and other artifacts caused by the build up pressure on the filament.
Good looking guy following a good looking hobby. Thank you for your support to the 3d printing community. You are one of my most valuable resources to this subject. Thank you!
Thanks for doing all the legwork for us on this. I just got my printer (Ender 5) and am trying to get up to speed. Love your videos, thanks again!
I’ve never had stringing issues with my Ender 3-in fact it’s the easiest printer I’ve ever setup and used (admittedly I’ve only had 2 but my last one took A LOT of work to get it to print as nice as the Ender has from day dot. One if the very first things I noticed Angus when I started printing was the MASSIVE variations in filament results etc-for example I found I can print translucent cooler than I can print coloured PLA - I’m assuming the pigment in the coloured PLA makes the difference. I found this out whilst printing a 3D lab print plane-I was having huge issues with the clear PLA, yet coloured stuff was fine-that’s when I discovered the variation in viscosity at a given temp for different PLA’s. Ever since that discovery my print quality has progressed in leaps and bounds-I bought all this upgrade stuff for my Ender 3 (cap tube, all metal hot end, BL touch, titan extruder, new tube couplers etc) and after 7 months I’m still using everything as the machine came except for the feed mechanism-I was getting some slippage so I put my alloy upgrade on. I use S3D exclusively and tbh I have zero issues, zero stringing, and generally good prints. I’m about to flash new firmware so I have the thermal runaway protection so I will possibly tweak the E-steps at the same time-but then I wonder if I really need to if I’m already getting good results. End of the day I think the initial Ender 3 was a bit “hit And miss” quality wise, and clearly I got a good one where you didn’t. I will also add I was super fussy setting my frame up square to the point i used a piece of paper as a Shim under one side of one upright to get it square. So yes. I think it’s a combo of decent assembly, luck of the draw (from creality), and also the filament. I got BETTER results from cheap filaments than I did from “branded” stuff!
Keep up the good work, I know it’s been mid 40’s over there this week-it’s nudging 30’s here in NZ👍
Hi John, I'm a chemist and will give you some hints about the filaments and why you have better result with the cheap ones. PLA (polilactic acid) industrially is produced by 2 ways, one using solvents that is the cheap one and other called ROP that is technically fancier. So when you use solvents there are huge odds that some solvent will stay on the PLA and this will make it more ductil (easy flowing) the more expensive that can be made by ROP have a bigger molecular weight that is better material quality that is not better handling for printing (at least in our cheap printers). Then the PLA has a natural milky color (lactic means milk in latin) so to be clear there are additives hence more solvents on the process so it melts in lower temps, colors rise the melting temp in any plastic and the rise will depend on the color and quality of the pigment (also if solid color or translucent). branded filaments have more additives usually to make them more "uniform" but usually means more controled settings hence more precise termistor, constant more unifor heating, etc, in plastics industry every time they change materials they do a calorimetric test to determine the thermodianmic qualities of the material that can vary from batch to batch, in our case we waste some meters of filament trying to get a quality print in the plastic industry you can waste tons of material before find out your bottles are too brittle or too elastic or too small when cool. The best you can do is write up the behaviour of the materials you use in relation to the colors and that will help you to foresee what to do when you use new brands and reduce waste.
@@EPortillo5000 That very much confirms my thoughts on different colored prints Thank You! Every time i see tests done with different colored models being compared I always have second thoughts and take the comparison with a grain of salt. The lack of controls when testing (don't mean to be demeaning) is very amature when i see most reviews, like room temp (effecting model temperature, thus layer adhesion and warp/collision) and thermal sensor temperature delta to the actual extruder tip/filament (which also changes if the room is cooler or warmer to a lesser degree). And of course I'm very much an amature ;-)
I enjoyed this video! I do consider the Ender 3 to be a "modification machine," which means it'll undoubtedly take some tweaking to get good results. Personally, I settled on the Ender 3 because I really wanted to learn the ins and outs of a 3D printer before I spend more money on the hobby. While I plan on expanding to other machines, I think the Ender 3 has been a great opportunity to mess around without worrying to much about what'll happen if I make a mistake.
In my experience, then, I only recommend the Ender 3 to people who want to get their hands dirty.
My Ender 3 just started stringing up a few minutes ago. Perfect timing on this one, thanks!
Wow, great video. Very interesting results! I didn’t realize how complicated all this slicer stuff could get
I use Cura almost exclusively and have found that with combing and aggressive retraction and a very MODEST Z-Hop, I can print complex geometries with no stringing and very rare failures (Normally because of external factors).
My max Z-Hop is around 0.1mm, but normally use 0.05mm which is enough to clear most obstructions while still getting the advantage of combing. I also tend to use coasting to slow the print head before a retraction (10%-15% speed reduction) to give residual plastic a little more time to exit the nozzle at the time of retraction.
@@thethiefmaster I use 10mm retraction.
Isn't coasting difficult to figure out? Sounds 'dangerous'.
Really interesting to see everything you've found. I'll have to give your ideamaker profile a go sometime. Glad you've seen that these machines are more capable than you originally thought, although I still agree with everything you're saying. It wasn't great having to use a hammer on my brand new printer to get the z-axis to actually move consistently, replace bearings at my own expense and I've ordered an ultrabase glass plate to get my bed flat and make it really easy to remove prints. I waited before ordering my printer so I got a later one with a removable surface (not magnetic). Happy with it now though for the price. Thanks
Hmmm, i own several 3d Printers and found the ender 3 working quite well. I never had an issue with the ender 3. I think that creality has a quality controll problem interms of supplyers... i own 3 ender 3 and never had any hardware issues nor stringing / bad prints (have them since 2.2018) . I live in germany and bought my printers on amazon. My printers also came with an quality controll checkmark. so maybe it also depends on where you buy it ? maybe printers form gearbest are cheaper because they have worse parts ? :D just my 2 cents
ps: love your work guys !
@@henrygoettler9647 where you buy the printer from will make no difference apart from the customer support you deal with. Amazon is more expensive as the seller needs to cover import tax and other expenses while still making a decent profit margin. I got charged about £26 import tax and I got it from Banggood with free delivery. If it was declared properly on the customs form, it would have been more. They all get the QC passed card from Creality. However, I don't think that is all that credible at all.
hi ChazMeister, thanks for those settings, i certainly will try those out!!
@@henrygoettler9647 I thinks this is clearly a lack of Angus knowing what he is doing and not the printer at all. We have been seeing lots of this lately like not using locking tabs on pneumatic couplings, not know how to tram a bed level properly, saying curling will be resolved with more cooling. He has become very dogmatic and since moving has been presenting his reviews and other content with an attitude of being a experienced professional and knowing what he is doing when he doesn't. This is why generally Tom's channel is a better watch for actual reliable information. Also seems Angus has a bit of a bee in his bonnet with Creality despite being sent printers for free, needs to a do a little more research/reading/testing before he submits his views. It's too bad as normally I am pro Aussie but he is letting team Oz down....
@@ChazMeister_ Hmm ok :D strange ... since my cupplers where not loose like angus ones. I might try and buy some form different platforms to see if there really is no difference. I acctually really like ther ender 3 because i found its print quality extremly decent especialy for that price point.
ps: thanks for the reply :D
Well done ANgus - props to you for correcting your previous reviews.
Fantastic. So clear. I use ideaMaker and was seeing these "raspy" bits sometimes and was confused. Thanks for the clarity.
S3D could likely mimic the cura settings by choosing "Outline Direction: Outside-In" instead of "Inside-Out" on the Layer tab. It might affect the outside finish a bit at the spots where the shell starts extruding, but it is the most likely to wipe off any string before traveling.
You can get similar results to Cura in S3D with printing outside->in on perimeters versus the default inside->out . Having run Bowden setups for a long time Outside->In has a lot of advantages. It does take more retraction tuning, but once it is done it helps with dimensional part accuracy because the outerwall solidifies before inner perimeters push against it. Versus inside out, which can lead to Oversized OD's and Undersized ID's.
I run in my simplify3D Ender3 profile: 4.5mm retract, 90mm/s retract, 3.0mm wipe, 40mm/s, outside->in perimeters, print Islands sequentially, Z-Hop ENABLED. I get very good results, no blobs or strings. And this is with cheap Microcenter Filament (AKA ESUN Filament).
Then again, YMMV.
Where is the Combing setting in Cura?
How do you set Z-hop enabled?
You must Set the retraction speed Higher.
Dude, thank you so much!!!!! Been working on printing a chess set for my kiddo, but couldnt solve the stringing problem. Thanks to you and @ChazMeister2 !!!!!
Worked great. Thanks for posting your settings. They were not that much different from mine. It seems the fix here is the wipe settings, which were drastically different. I was also using coast. The stringing test came out absolutely perfect with these settings.
Using Cura, I had no stringing issues with retraction and Z-hop enabled together on the same two post test. Using Ender 3
Where is the Combing setting in Cura?
Which parameters do you set in the retraction settings? I found too many retractions would cause problem. I had to use combing mode to instead of the retraction. It improves strings a lot but can’t eliminate all.
Would you mind showing the Retracion Settings you finally used in Cura? I also have an E3 with great results, but not as perfect as in the video :)
Props for acknowledging and correcting your prior Ender 3 comments.
I posted a "complaint" in his Ender 3 Pro review were he was trashing the ender 3 pro -- well pointing out a lot of problems I as a noob did not have. Maybe I "got a good one". I'm certain the variable of self-assembly is resulting in some of the poor prints and experiences people have had with the ender 3.
New to printing, making all the mistakes, but learning. I have been watching many of your videos - Love your channel keep bringing your opinion. Subscribed.
The problem is the Magic numbers, based a pond stepper motor and micro stepping, But not in layer heights as you mentioned! Those are important in layer perfection, However for blobs and stringing, it is the Extruders magic numbers that needs to be tweaked, Not many slicers take that in to account so you have to mechanically do it! I simple remedy is to reduce the number of micro stepping in for the Extruder, My quick and dirty fix, was to putting in, the Good old faithful A4988 with a reduced steps to 1/8, Yes the motors are louder but its much more precise, and for Bowden you need all the help you can get.
very interesting theory, but with reducing the precicion/bandwith of these extruder steps I would have expected , the opposite would occur , well I m not a pro in all this but thanks for your thoughts on this
@@jomiller7332 You do lose some microstepping resolution but you increase holding torque and when your trying to control filament to nozzle, with pressures and retractions, while keeping in mind, the closer you get push filament out the nozzle at it lowest melt point possible ( which is not easy with a bowden extruder ) , will result in the least amount of stringing with better extruder control, Which is where holding torque comes in to play, One could have the best of both worlds if the extruder motor was a 0.9 degree rather then what is surely a 1.8 degree, on those printers. Lets not forget, They are very much a low budget printers, and they use the cheapest parts possible, and I don't blame them! I'm pretty sure the holding torque on are not very high. Regardless, In my testing with Bowden extruders is 1/8 is what gave me the same results as a direct drive extruder.
@@jomiller7332 ehhh, yes they become less precise but for the ender 3 you just have to have an integer multiple of 0.04mm and itll be aligned with the steps. it just keeps the layers constant and minimize a rounding in the step
I'm about to switch my Delta to 2x microstepping for the extruder and a flying extruder (5-8cm Bowden tube from the hotend to the extruder and suspend the extruder with elastic or springs)
woah I had no idea filament has so much effect on prints! also kudos for admitting you were wrong :)
in my country (iran) I can only find unbranded filaments. no cool sparkly and exotic filaments or variety in colors etc. Maybe one day when I get out of this nightmare of a country I can start printing cool stuff :)
@Noobz Threefortyseven i had to wait 6 months for a silver colored filament. And it's only getting worse...
@Noobz Threefortyseven what states? most?!
@Noobz Threefortyseven well can you really blame me for that mistake in today's age of sensationalist politics? Where was your "/s"?!
@@_jow Wow I'm from germany and didn't read it as a joke too, lol. Also, 4 months later, video games are banned from Walmart but Guns not. Today you can't know what's a joke or not.
You can always buy filament from Turkey and they can ship to Iran (Not sure if thats still same through COVID19 crisis)
being a newbie i trust what you say i do like all the help you give us out here you are still one of the best on you tube and for that i want to thank you for taking the time to help us
I modded my Ender 3 V2 to Direct Drive a few days ago. I couldn't fix my stringing even on PLA. I've been using Cura since I got the printer back in Feb 2021. I switched to ideaMaker and just copied over the relevant settings I could find on my Cura profile (I used an Ender 3 V2 profile from their the Raise3D cloud website), and holy crap. NO MORE STRINGING. Well, except that one wisp at the very end like with your sample.
This is so good. I'll be sticking to ideaMaker from now on!
What settings do you have on yours?
Really appreciate the time you take to do tests like this. I know one of your big complaints have been the bowden system. I sent you an email about a week ago wanting to discuss a direct drive system I designed and have launched. (never got a reply) Would you be willing to try one out and see how much they increase your print quality and filament versatility?
What system is it?
>one wierd trick
Not inter--
>Maker's Muse
Oh fine.
Hehe I know, it was a risky title :)
@@MakersMuse You know I saw your super clickbait-ey title and thought "Probably just some crap to get some views....Wait does that Say Makers Muse.....I'll give you 30 secs to wow me......." Great video XD
Good work to Chuck for getting in touch and kudos to you for quickly letting us know. Well done.
THANK YOU!!! I've been fighting this Ender 3 for what seems like forever. Finally got a good print out of it! Used Hatchbox ABS and that profile with a bit of tweaking here and there.
I've been using hatchbox PLA and its been great so far
Actually, filament can be a variable, yet it depends on one important thing : the filament's condition.
Cheap or expensive, you will eventually have stringing and most artifacts retractions can cause if your filament is not dry enough.
Printing without stringing is not that difficult, I do it on a similar printer (Anycubic i3 Mega-S), not only by tuning retraction, but also (and mostly) by keeping my filament spools dry (which implies storing them properly and having some "oven drying sessions" at times for some materials).
I need that orange thing with tentacles in my life
I'm just considering my first 3D printer and I found this video refreshing, and also a bit intimidating. It shows that 3D printing is not just a plug-n-play technology, but like most things, a complex set of compromises that are affected by many variables (material, brand, feed tube, slicer sw, part geometry). It sets the expectation for me that printing (more difficult) parts may be an iterative process. Thanks for your humility and straightforward discussion. I appreciate your seemingly unbiased (or at least you acknowledge your biases) review. Well done.
Yeah if you're looking for a plug and play experiance 3D printing is absolutely not for you. Gotta be ready to put a lot of hours into setting it all up.
It's a manufacturing process. The same way everything else that has been mass-produced by humans requires an inordinate amount of time and effort to get just right, so will 3D printing. I've just ordered my first printer (surprise, it's an Ender 3) and I've realized I need to make time for this, if its going to be my newest hobby.
@@TheRedStarman Keep us posted on your first experience with 3D and this printer. Good luck. Good thing that there seems to be a large community of users from which you can get help.
Very interesting, thanks Angus! I have to say I really am a fan of ideaMaker which I discovererd thanks to you!
I'm getting better results with my print settings than with yours. Namely my coasting distance is 0.6mm, printing external shells first, and retraction at 8mm. I have Z hop enabled across models and supports only.
I've never had stringing on my ender 3 and I use Cura and have always used the cheapest PLA I can find
then you should make videos showing how great you and your machine are. I have an ender 3 and have had 6 or so good prints out of about 20.
Stringing may be caused becaused of temperature. Probably the blue fillement may require à lower temperature and/or a better cooling whn extruded. May be should you have a try.
Regards
Thank you so much for this....I've not touched my Ender 3 for over a month...had few problems, still need to fit a replacement nozzle to it....but these setting should prove useful! You da man!
I have spent an entire week trying to tune in my new PETG and could not stop the stringing. Tried all of the same things you did in this video. Was about to give up when i watched this vid. Downloaded ideamaker and the first print was flawless. I will keep this slicer in my arsenal for stringy materials or maybe just replace my Cura and Slic3r with this. Love watching your videos, keep up the good work. Thanks!
I have been getting these results for some time. you have discovered "wipe" :-) Whatever cura is doing its looks like a wipe to me. the need for z hop is a cooling issue not a z hop issue. z hop just "gets around" the cooling issue typically (cooling is such a pita !!). The ender 3's are not really vastly different. the first ender 3 is largely identical to the latest ender 3 the only MAJOR difference in my opinion is the arrangement of the wheels for the bed rail. otherwise the differences are minor and minimal. (sock or no sock glass or sticker or mag or fiber board which is not even a printer difference but a print surface difference) ie for the most part the changes do not effect how the printer prints. those parts are unchanged. most are cosmetic or convenience changes.
I just use my normal profile and the string test printed absolutely perfectly. going to redo it in a darker filament as its hard to see the zit line (almost non existent by sight and touch) I enabled z hop with zero change in string (none) and zits (still nearly invisible) I can't tell a difference between the with and without z hop at all. I was pretty aggressive with the hop too at .5mm I will post some pics to twitter.
Z hop is used for an over extrusion issue or you are using a delta (due to delta printers moving the z/x/y motors on every movement so it moves along in a wave rather than a flat line) that has 1.8 degree motors instead of 0.9 degree motors. You don't use Z hop if you have a well setup printer even on a delta
I agree and disagree with your analysis of the differences between generations of the Ender 3. While there wasn’t major changes, there was major quality control differences. I sent the generation 1 back with a boatload of notations of what was wrong with it. I now have the latest generation and these problems have all been corrected for the most part. Huge difference in how it prints.
@@Redemptioner1 Zhop has much more use than that... especially when printing small thin details where the cooling of the area can make the detail want to warp upwards and would catch the nozzle when traveling near it. This is how his xmas tree test failed directly and what makes it a difficult print, the wobble of the segments, and the risk of collision.
I was very disappointed he didn't do slic3r and simply turn on the wipe...
He also did not experiment with the temperature on the stringy filament. I can usually finetune my temps to get rid of most of the stringing with PLA.
Different filament has different sweetspots, but I agree, a wipe is generally the first goto.
@@MattWeber then you clearly do not understand what is happening with the additional height on the edge of overhangs, nothing to do with warping and z hop will not fix the issue. Z hop is used to make up for poorly constructed and tuned printers, no other reason. If you had too much heat from nozzle on slow thin walls then the print would warp away from heat not towards it.....
I really wish reviewers would stop using S3D to review printers. It's not what the printers ship with nor do the majority of printing community uses. People always help each others dialing in their printers and a $150 software should not be part of the equation when free slicers such as Cura, Slic3r, Slicer PE, and others are as amazing as they already are. This is even more so when reviewing printers that cost similar to, sometimes even less than S3D.
Yep. I can't see the benefits of S3D vs the price they want. It's just not worth it to me.
I used S3D and was not impressed. Went down the list and tried every slicer after a year of printing to see if there was anything more reliable than Cura - nope. In fact IMO CURA & S3D had the most features with a GPU acceleration advantage for Cura. Slicing time was nearly identical when using like settings. The only feature I wish Cura had were custom tree supports, theres plugins and some tree options but its not custom like S3D which is a Godsend when you need them. S3D should be $50 annually, its not worth more I dont feel the GUI is as intuitive as Cura and it just feels like a java torrent program (how its interface interacts).
@@davey3765 I use simplify most of the time but recently tried cura to try and correct a z-seam issue I was having (was related to another setting that accidentally got enabled). I found that the overall print quality of cura's default profile for the ender was as good as my highly tuned profile in simplify. However, as you mention, simplify blows cura out of the water when it comes to supports. The ability to customize where your supports are being placed as well as the auto-generated supports being so good makes it worth it for me. I have never had an issue with supports in Simplify but for the few days I used cura it was problem after problem. Supports not adhering to the bed, or failing halfway up due to bad layer adhesion, or apparent under-extrusion. I could not manage to tune them to work. What's strange is that these were on prints where the actual model printed beautifully, it was only the supports that had issues. Same model in simplify, flawless supports.
@@davey3765 I kinda agree in the sense that S3D has a crappy Qt user interface and more often than not has usability issues with things like saving profiles. That said, I recently tried Cura as the last time I tried, it was a Wanhao build which was just sad. Cura is A LOT better than it used to be. But S3D is still amazing. I have probably 5 functional 3d printers at this time and some were much cheaper and some where 20 times more expensive than the Ender 3. I bought the Ender 3 as a replacement for my Wanhao i3 2.1 (which kinda died), I also bought a Swiss Micro all metal hotend and a teflon build plate. With some work, I've consistently been receiving reliable prints from the Ender 3 that are far superior than Ultimaker 5. I've done this by tweaking S3D settings far past what Cura allows. That said, I'm using very inexpensive but EXTREMELY high quality PLA from 3DNet in Norway. I will admit. My print speeds are low, but I can buy 20 Ender 3s for the same price as an Ultimaker and make it up in volume. I don't think the results would be possible in Cura, though I'm tempted to try now. I'm now considering a better PTFE tube. Though I can't see buying the Ender 3 Pro as meaningful since there are no quality improvements I can get from it that I can't get from S3D. As for Simplify3d's price. I already bought it, so it's no issue. But I agree, it REALLY REALLY stung. I would have paid $30 a year or $75 outright and been happy. But $150 was simply unacceptable.
@@NoHemlockForMe On the price point, I pirated S3D to see if I could justify the $210 AUD it would cost me, and after using it for a month, I went back to Cura and uninstalled S3D. It's just not worth it for the ridiculous price they're charging. The only thing that S3D has going for it is their custom supports.
It's a shame, because if it was about $50USD I would probably buy it, but at $150, I'm never going to justify it. I do wonder if the number of people who feel the same way is high enough that they could be making much more money at a cheaper price point.
WOW. That Angus Modified Ender 3 FFF profile fixed my prints! Thanks!
I used to use Z-hop on cura as a way to prevent the extruder from catching on other parts, but it turned out that for prints with a lot of detail (like sculptures or figurines) I would get horrible pimples and stringing. On close inspection, Z hop won't allow the filament to stick inside the print, it kind of overrides the combing function. So an alternative IS having better calibrated filament, flow and temperature control (for most things I print anyway). Great video Angus.
Angus, I also had hard time with my Ender 3 at the very beginning (my first 3d printer). I went to the point where I wanted just to grab this shit and throw it out of my room's window, then sit and but eg. Prusa. But then I realised that ok, that's really cheap stuff, I can't expect it to be perfect. I started with changing extruder to regular MK8 extruder with adjustable spring tension. Then printed and mounted new PTFE coupler for extuder (in my case ptfe in hotend fits nice and snug). I also realized that I have gap between PTFE and nozzle - fixed that problem. I milled frame profiles to make them perfectly square, completly reasembled my Ender. But still have an issue with bed (bed carriage is not flat and it's shitty designed, so I will remake it), but prints are pretty good now. PTFE tube also have tendency to stretch, so I wrapped it up with fiberglass tape (belive me it works). I tweaked Cura to the point that satisfied me. BUT ! ! the thing that changed my prints quality just insanely is - changing nozzle to genuine E3D. You need to reassembly whole hotend (different thread lenght) but difference is just incredible. Walls are much smoother, it's easier to re-level bed, and since that change - I never had issues with extrusion no more. So, try also this one, should see clear difference. All the best from Poland!
Hello. I read with so much interest your comment. I also own a Ender 3 Pro. I want to upgrade mine with yellow springs (or silicone cushions, i haven't decided yet), MK8 extruder, Capricorn tubing, and so on. But what about PTFE coupler? Did you have any link? I wanted to print mine too but i can't find the proper one. Thank you very much for sharing your experience. Greetings from Italy.
glad im using cura since day 1. that was 3 days ago.
Thanks so much for the video Angus! Our Ender 3 pro arrived the day after your review video so I was pretty worried about what quality I would be getting. Prints perfect though! Way better than some of our other expensive printers. On stock simplify 3d profile settings we seem to have very little to no stringing. Will try your some of your settings out and see if we can get even better results.
Just ordered my first printer, picked up the Ender 3 Pro and straight after saw your comparison video of the two....Oh well, I'm just happy to get my first printer! Thanks for the content you create, your video's are definitely helpful and enjoyable to watch. Also thanks for the files, downloaded them just in case I need em.
Cura also has the "Iron top layer" function which makes models with any flat tops so freakin smooth
Quite sure Cura is the only slicer with this option currently, I could be wrong though xD
Neosanding right? I've been meaning to try that out .
@@MakersMuse it works pretty good but to be worth while it needs to be a big area.
Oooo, I'm trying that option.
It works really well (I find that having more top layers does help, I'd say at least 4) but it takes a loooooooooooooooong time, sometimes it even doubles my print time, depending on the model.
Thanks for mentioning it, i wouldn't have known its there!
no hardware is good , it's all about software , that why I hate people who just say it's cheap machine it won't work , and they have wrong settings and blame it on the machine .
anyhow good on you for making the video
but its not only software. It's also hardware as in FILAMENT.
There are worlds between all sorts of Filament. I have some white Filament that totally sucks and another roll from another brand is absolutely great.
@@REDxFROG yeah but you can still combat any type of filament with software settings(if not it's not filament it's just crap), but yeah some stuff have much greater effect , but if all basics are there u can fix any problem in software ( not clogged nozzle , lose belt, broken wire . these are all essential that are needed )
great quality video as usual.
Please doo more fusion tutorial.
The skills I've learned from your channel has opened my world! I can now create anything I can imagine! Thank you!
I used a M413 SO command in my gcode to get rid of those blobs.
I also ran into stringing a few days back on my Sunlu.
I found out the flow and retraction speed and distance also affected it
may have been hot when you filmed but the rain sure did come hard in the afternoon
That cool change was intense lol. Either way both make filming interesting!
No rain where I am... We just had the hot. Although it was still under 40, so not real hot.
Angus, I've asked nearly everyone in the 3D world to do a vid on when it's time to change nozzles. No feedback at all. What say you???
Oh and, great vid.
JP1 on Thingiverse has some calibration parts you can print. If you have measured your filament diameter and set that in the slicer, and the parts are still coming out oversize, the nozzle may be worn.
You could also buy cleaning needles for a 0.5 nozzle and try inserting it occasionally. If it goes in (don't use much force) the nozzle is definitely worn to that size.
Because of ur channel I got really interested in 3d printing I purchased a artillery sidewinder x1v4 and have had some great results as a 💯 knows nothing about the game operator...... I printed the calibration boat thing in real size and in 25% with great results after a few tweaks of cura slicer and rep slicer thank u makers muse
You’re a good and helpful guy Angus. I’ve watched a couple of your videos and picked out some essential tips and tricks plus it’s no punishment to watch as well. So to redefine my phrase, it was very good to see that you were able to do 3 things in this video. 1; comment on yourself that you were wrong on a specific point. 2; to apologise to the company in question. 3; how you put value on others options, willingly to improve (drastically) on your own performance and equal to others. Thanks for posting all, it will help a lot of people in the near future globally. Greetings from the Netherlands
I've got no strings
To hold me down
To make me fret, or make me frown
I had strings
But now I'm free
There are no strings on me!
😄
I don't remember the part of the movie where Pinocchio becomes a doll again because he can't enable z-hop
Ok, Ultron.
Hand over that vibranium fillament ultron.
Tom Davies yes
Wow. I started to print 2 days ago, as a noob and my second, third model was the same quality. CE3 Cura
OMG this works so well, started using this and im getting next to no stringing on most filaments and on a few i get absolutely zero strings. Thank you Angus!
This is a really well done and important video. Not because it necessarily solves a problem, but it demonstrates that their are no silver bullets and that their is no one size fits all solution. Slicer settings need to be changed, depending on what is being printed and no single profile will be tuned to print everything. Getting the string test model to print cleanly only involves tweaking a few settings and almost anyone can do it. It gets much more complicated when we start looking at more sophisticated models that have varying geometry, supports, etc. Appreciate all the time you have put into this, as always, well done!
Now the question for me would be could you purposefully have a print string so as to be able to make something like a spiderweb?
You would have to tune and tweak your gcode. With higher temps a motion tweak and Im sure print speed would have to be dialed in. It'd probably be easier with a 3d pen lol
@@UnifiedInfo You make a fair point
Hey, Any, use this GCODE at the end of yours (right after print is finished) to stop this last string from appearing:
G91
M83
G1 E-1 F300
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F4200
Licensed under GNU GPL v3, makes your very top part very clean and gets rid of that one last vertical string.
Does it work?
Well done! Thanks for sharing! This may change my life with 3D printing.
The fact that you came back to this to literally prove yourself wrong is amazing. you definitely just earned my sub