Save Electricity - Auto Power Down Your 3D Printer - Chris's Basement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- ** WARNING: ELECTRIC SHOCK RISK **
Save Electricity! Today we build a relay that will automatically shut off your 3D Printer when your prints are finished. We'll build the relay, configure the Firmware, set up the G Code and install a handy reset switch.
** WARNING: ELECTRIC SHOCK RISK **
00:00 Intro
02:18 Relay Overview
04:41 Relay Build
10:37 Mainboards
13:38 Firmware
18:10 Test M81
19:58 Reset Switch
22:14 G Code Setup
23:45 G Code Test 1
24:26 G Code Test 2
25:48 Conclusion
These are affiliate links and take you to Amazon.
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Link to Momentary Switch:
geni.us/ZBd3OS
IEC plug:
geni.us/nJ49mST
IoT relay:
geni.us/vBrY
BTT relay:
geni.us/F2LG
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Helpful Links:
BTT UPS 24V V1.0 Resume Printing While Power Off Module (Aff):
shrsl.com/3kj8d
Thingiverse original case
www.thingiverse.com/thing:442...
My remix of the relay case:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:490...
Chucks video:
• Simple Auto Off Contro...
PSU control:
plugins.octoprint.org/plugins...
Bigtreetech relay github:
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTRE...
SUPPORT THE CHANNEL BY CLICKING THESE LINKS!
OpenBuilds - Great CNC and 3D Printer Parts (aff)
openbuildspartstore.com/?ref=...
Slice Engineering - Mosquito Hotends (aff)
www.sliceengineering.com/?p=r...
Wham Bam Systems Flexible Beds (aff)
bit.ly/2HoS1cV
Amazon (aff) [US DE GB CA IT ES FR JP]:
www.amazon.com/?tag=chrisbase...
Banggood(aff) ban.ggood.vip/7vm3
Aliexpress(aff) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/UrRbCm8
Buy me a coffee to keep me going!
buymeacoff.ee/Wc0DouFbl
You can support my work on Patreon
/ brotherchris
One Time Tips, You Can PayPal Me:
www.paypal.me/ChrisRiley3D
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Great design. You always teach me something about Marlin. Thanks for mentioning my version.
Thanks Chuck!
THANK YOU! I bought one of these a year or two ago but I couldn't find any good tutorials about it. Time to finally get this setup.
Glad I could help!
I bought this relay a couple of months ago and could not get it to work right.
Now it works the way I wanted it to work.
You are the "go to" guy for 3D printing.
Great video.
Thank you
Glad I could help, thanks!
I didn't know that it would be this easy with the end code. Guess I will use this to just cool down the heatbed.
Thanks fow showing!
Very informative and useful as usual Chris! 😀
Thank you!
Great walk-through.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍:-)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent as usual, thank you for your time and effort
My pleasure! Thanks for watching
Was really looking for this stuff!!!!
Great, thanks for watching!
Chris Riley thanks for this video extremely helpful I bought this board from BQ a year ago and couldn't get it hooked up like you said not a lot of good info on it so I gave up on it till now awesome video thanks a lot bro.
Glad I could help!
Always a pleasure to hear and see your videos on TH-cam.
Careful that the hot and neutral wires change if you just put the plug in the wall outlet reversed.
So the relay isn't always switching the hot wire. The circuit still works okay. But don't count on the neutral in the box, being the neutral of you wall outlet.
Thanks!
Thanks Chris very interesting module, is make me to think about it, i hooked up a shelly p1 to my power supply to control it from OP and HA but i liked the gcode trick, is very creative
Thank you!
You can easily just put a WiFi/Bluetooth/Z-wave relay (Shelly,Heltun etc.), or your existing power DIN rail or inside your printer accordingly. The existing power switch is rewired as just an Input to the relay, and the relay controls the printer power. Functionally it's exactly the same as before except that you can also remotely power it on/off. Klipper can now send an API call to turn off its own power! Viola. Very clean. Mine is a high load relay for my voron 2. For added safety, It is configured to independently power off the machine if it's own thermistor or measured current draw exceed configured thresholds.
Very cool, I am going to get one to play with.
This is awesome I must make one. Thanks u rock
Great, thanks! Be careful
Great info. This is something that has been on my to do list but I hadn't got around to looking into. I use Raspberry Pi Zero's running Klipper and it should be possible to control a BTT relay board from that allowing me to switch on and off the printer. The Pis are independently powered from the printers and I don't mind them being always on. Cheers.
Thanks!
It's a fantastic video. I bought this relay a couple of weeks ago. This guide is very useful (as your whole channel is).
Glad you like it! Thanks!
Great video I may try this also, but I have a ton of smart switches too that are linked to octoprint.
OctoPrint would be a great setup too!
Great video, Chris. Well done. Makes the tinkerer in me feel good. Depending on the price, I may do this for the V-minion if I ever get the chance to build one. Not for the exact reason in the video though.....
My Ender 3 Pro + rPi 3b consumes 15VA/9W when idle. Most of that is the Pi. The Meanwell PSU has a horrible power factor; usually around 0.6. My power rate last month was $0.11/kWHr. For 30 days that comes to.... *drumroll*
9*24*30/1000*0.11 for a monthly grand total of (yes, I'm adding this for the first time) $0.08.
You're not going to save a lot of power or $ with this device.... BUT, as others have already mentioned (I'm late watching the video sadly) you can add a measure of safety to the printer by having it or a smart switch on the mains. I have Home Assistant monitor the temps from Octoprint and if they go above (or below) a certain value HA triggers the switch to turn off. I added this for that possibility that TRP tries to kick in and instead of a loose thermistor it's a dead mosfet. TRP can do nothing in that situation. When mosfets fail, they usually fail in the ON state and the firmware trying to turn one OFF is fruitless. It's not a perfect solution, but it adds an extra layer of protection for a budget board.
Thanks for your insight!
Did this to both of my printers but used sonoff modules flashed with tasmota and the octoprint plugin. Tied both my printers into my Home Assistant as well so from my tablet I can monitor them and control them at a glance.
That's great! Thanks for watching
Yes, most of us are running uncertified printers, but you are probably better off using something UL listed to do this. TP-Link Kasa units are $10, don't need cloud integration, and already work with Octoprint.
Still an interesting build. Thanks for the vid. Subbed.
Cool, thanks!
I've been using a small 4 relay module that can be connected to a pi. I don't even like neutral going to the printer when it's off, so I break both hot and neutral, and on big machines I have the AC bed on the other 2 relays, since those 4 relay boards are dirt cheap, and it's super easy to send a gpio command to toggle it - it's really simple to get the basics working, I do more creative control that when octoprint says the job is done it starts a 20 minute timer which I can cancel by manually canceling it or by starting another print, if the timer wasn't canceled, the machine is turned off, and turned off like it's not even plugged in, all relays are turned off, so hot and neutral are disconnected. Been using this on all of my machines, if you're using octorpint these relay boards are like $5-6, i buy them in 2 packs, they're useful for various other projects
Cool, Thanks for your insight!
Sounds great. Can you share some more details like wiring instructions or even pictures?
Cool solution. You're right, there are a LOT of approaches for power-off.
The stuff I need arrived this week so I'm going to take control of my printer power this weekend. I'm electing to use a relay board (arduino style I guess) and control it from an IO pin on the Raspberry Pi since I'm using (and liking!) Octoprint.
I've never seen that BTT board before. Thanks for introducing it!
You're also correct, anybody doing this needs to heed the words and make sure it's safe. I was even recoiling a bit with you using the terminal clips for the AC being that close together without extra insulation. I'm sure it will be fine, but after a while we do get a reflexive "how can this possibly go wrong" approach on this stuff.
A funny saying from where I work: "Overkill saves lives"
Thanks! Good luck with your projects!
@@ChrisRiley I'm close, kind of. I figured out that I first need to print some enclosures to set up what I have (Ended up getting an SKR board and display too. Can't leave anything alone).
Meantime, the Pi I have Octoprint on has started communication errors - I swear, literally EVERY project I've tried on RPi fritzes out within a week. Every time. I watched your "Octoprint On Linux" video and though it may be a bit out of date by now, I may try that this weekend on a mini PC I've got. Should be more robust maybe. This printer might be running right someday.
@@TyroneDamShewlaces That's strange about the Pi, they usually seem to be pretty solid. Yes on the Linux video, very outdated. I really need to update it.
@@ChrisRiley Cool that you're thinking about an update video.
I dunno man - I haven't used Pi's for a lot of things, but in my particular experience, I never have been able to depend on one thus far. Usually it's an SD card corruption problem (obvious weak link on Pi) but this time I haven't touched the card since installation so the communication problem must be USB something... maybe.
Anyways, appreciate the reply.
I was getting ready to chime in on the end gcode, but you stole my thunder. LOL.
I use the R90 option before turning off my Z stepper as I've had issue in the past with small prints and the Z dropping while the nozzle was at temp. Klipper lets me disable steppers independently so I turn off X & Y after presenting the bed forward. The M106 to help cool the hotend faster is something I've been doing since last year.
Cool, thanks for your insight!
Thanks for the videos. I'm surprised that you don't use the ISPF editor! 😀
Ha! Finally, someone gets me. I use ISPF every day.
@@ChrisRiley some old shops still use that ISPF for inventory, the last I used it was 1980's .. Old CRT green screen.. Company I with bought a Mainframe and 6 stations (lifetime support $1,000,000 ) Crazy right
Great video Chris, I truly enjoy your style of teaching and this is very timely for me as well.
I have a question what do you use to crimp JST and Dupont connectors, I have tried several crimpers but have yet to find the correct one for each of the connectors. I'm not necessarily looking for a single crimper for all connectors, but specifically a "good" crimper for each of the connectors. Thanks in advance for your help and for your next video!
Hey, I use these for JST and Molex and they work pretty well. www.amazon.com/dp/B082X45D7T?pd_rd_i=B082X45D7T&pd_rd_w=mfuDZ&pf_rd_p=7ea8e9d0-fed1-49e8-a002-f2d3f5cb151d&pd_rd_wg=Wt6rs&pf_rd_r=Y93E4S7BA3AKDZ6P3W89&pd_rd_r=15cf6529-8176-43ee-976f-c33ebc0bcc2e
For Dupont I think these still work better.
www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Crimping-0-14-1-5mm%C2%B2-Connectors-Terminals/dp/B01LH3SR1C/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=dupont+crimper&qid=1633269289&sr=8-7
I would like to know what the "PROS" use. I am with you, I would pretty much buy anything to make the job easier.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks a ton Chris, I've got both those on order now, keep up the great videos!
Hello Chris,
Thanks a lot for the video, I really like your solution and the fact that it is not relied on a wifi network. I am planning to add an enclosure heater to ramp-up the ambient temp to 50C so I can print abs hopefully warp-free. I need to use this extra heater because I also vent the fumes outside through filters.
Since I have a minix mini pc (ubuntu) hooked-up to my Prusa mk3s I am wondering if I could use your solution and control the BIGTREETECH Relay with the EinsyRambo?
So when the printer finished printing it would turn the psu and the heater off.
You should have a couple extra pins on the Einsy, but it might be tricky to edit the firmware to work with this. You could flash Marlin and make it work.
Hey Chris! I love your videos! Would you make the same video but for klipper users? That would be awesome since there is not much information out there. Thank you!
Great suggestion! I'll see what I can do
hello chris a perfect video!!! do you have an klipper software configuration about this installation?
Not for this one, sorry
Same here. I had it set when I used Octo and TH3D, now on Klipper wish I could do it again the same way.
thakns this is great i have set it up from your tutorial for the skr mini e3 v2.0 on my ender. are you planning on making another follow on video to this to get the pwr detection part working? i still haven't figured this out yet, I'm guessing it designed so that it knows when the powers out and moves the nozzle out of the way so you dont get a melted blob on the resume print. Not sure if it needs a capacitor module to work with this too, anyway great content and this video is well set out and easy to follow as always. :)
Yes, I have been playing with some different cap modules. I should have a follow up video on this. I am having some trouble getting some of them to work correctly.
On my Biqu B1 I use an MKS module and love it. I am thinking about adding an ESP8266 with tasmota to be able to wake it up over WiFi. There should be enough power from the integrated 5V psu.
Cool, thanks for watching!
thx Chris
Thanks for watching!
Hi, I did this using octoprint and a similar power relay of my own design. I can remotely switch my PSU on and off and, using the 'Enclosure' Plugin, can have the printer shutdown when the print ends and cools down. I didn't have to change anything on the printer which worked for me. If I hadn't done this already then your option seems neat and I probably would have considered it, thanks.
I also created an overheat safety system that automatically kills all power to the printer if any component starts to get too warm. Have a look on my channel if you're interested. Thanks again for the great content.
Very nice! I want to do a similar setup to yours with Octoprint very soon.
Great video, I got myself btt relay 1.2. had some trouble to make it working - the wires were mixed so after but after all it is doing great job turning of printer after print is completed. I have a set up with Octopi running my printer so I have added shout down g-code in Cura. Now I am wondering how could I use "OctoPi" "PSU Control" plugin + "PSU Control - RPi.GPIO" Sub-plugin to flip the power back on using rest sw on relay. On GPIO Pins we have there 5V and GND and reset sw of relay is also 5V and GND. On one hand I am kind of afraid to fry my RPi. On the other hand it would allow to switch on printer 100% remotely - sounds sexy :) Would you have sny advice on the idea. Or maybe that could be a new peace of content on your channel. Love your work.
Thank you! I think you could make it happen pretty easy by just triggering a GPIO pin. AS you stated, RPi's are so valuable these days I would hate to try it, I wouldn't want to break anything. :)
Thanks to Chris for wonderful movies. Although I already have the Bigtreetech Relay module installed, but with your films goes much easier.
A movie about BTT WiFi module was very helpful. greetings
Thank you!
You know dude, pretty much everything I want to try to do, I look, and you have an instructional video how to do it. I think of a change I want to make, or something to set up, and I have no doubt I can come to your videos, and find it. And, I need to pay a little better attention to what you say, you give very good hints when there's something you really don't like, but don't want to come flat out and say it. I would have commented on the video I just went and found, but the comments were turned off. I fried my raspberry pi messing with neopixels, but have like 6 windows 10 tablets sitting around, and wanted to set octoprint up on one until my replacement comes. And, I switched the SKR e3 rrf over to Marlin. I really did like reprap and DWC, but its just all around working better with Marlin on it. As always, thank you for all your help sir!!! Next time I'm in that area, I'll look you up, and if your ever in, or want to come to Florida,,,,,,,,, you're always welcome!!!
Great, Thanks!
I'd use shrouded/insulated spade/blade connectors instead of those unshrouded ones as those spades on the IEC connector seem quite close to each other.
Do you have a link?
@@ChrisRiley I'm talking about this type of spade connector:
www.amazon.com/AIRIC-Insulated-Connector-Disconnect-Terminal/dp/B06XCWHY1B (no idea about the quality, just using it as an example)
Might be an overkill but these would mitigate shortcircuits caused by connectors disconnecting and touching other leads or anything metal that might drop and touch anything on the IEC(though yours has a fuse to protect so might not be necessary.
BTT E3mini V3 does the job for me now. OK, the screen is still on, but juice to hotend and build plate is off as well as the cooling fans to hotend and power supply.
Thanks for your comment
thanks Chris great video. is there a way to bypass this if you want to start another print.
You can, but it takes a lot of setup. You would need another power source to wake it up.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for the reply. I have set the cooldown temp two M109 R100 seem to work better when staring another print.
I bought one of these boards but found the lack of support documentation annoying. It took quite a lot of searching to figure out how all of the connectors are used.
I plan on bookmarking this video!
Have you thought about doing a video on the Bigtreetech UPS board?
I'll look into it. Thanks!
Greate video. I learn many things from you. Thank you. I want to connect BTT UPS to this module. BTT UPS has 3 pins but this module has 2 pins on it. So ı believe ı can ignore the voltage pin in BTT UPS. Is that correct? In your BTT UPS video, you are connecting directly on the board. But if ı connect UPS on this module what pin ı should use in the software?
Thank you! That's a good question, I will have to go back and look at these and figure out the best way to connect them.
Hi Chris
I have a question for you.
If i have an mks pwc v2 . Do you think this will work with skr 1.4 bored??
Yes, it should work the same ad the BTT one. Should work fine on the 1.4.
Thanks for video Chris, this is very informative. I am just wondering, could I still use this relay even if I don’t use Marlin firmware? I upgraded my prusa extruder to bondtech for prusa printer. I know bondtech Modifies the firmware in order to make it work with prusa mk3 s. I hope I can still use this option, thanks.
On the Prusa machine it's pretty hard to get this setup. Not enough pins and it's not baked into the firmware. It would be very challenging.
Thank you replying and providing your feedback. I’ll just look into octoprint to see if there is alternative to turn off the printer when done.
Hey actually got a notification this time!
Woo Hoo!
You don't need an additional source of power, wire the relay between the psu and btt skr, then wire a dc to dc from the psu in parallel to power the rpi and relay. Octoprint enclosure plugin gives a very easy clean solution to manage the machines power from the top bar icon.
Thanks for the tips!
How would that work? Could you share some more details for this solution?
I saw the title and was going to ask how long have you been wanting to do this and you answered it in the first sentence... Nice.
I also wanted to ask you since the v1 Shark firmware was released are you going to get mainline Marlin or klipper going on your Shark? I know Barry Barker spoke to you about the schematic they provided but I got them to provide a better one and we have the terribly hacked Marlin 1.y firmware source with the pin definitions also. I certainly wish someone with more Marlin experience than I would work on this as well, I'm the only person who has gotten the source they provided to compile using KEIL MDK but honestly the source is terrible and has been hacked to death in a most unprofessional manner and I would rather spend my time bringing up Marlin 2.y and klipper.
Hey, I actually just gave my shark to a friend. Too many projects at this point. So no plans.
@@ChrisRiley I kinda figured it was one you gave away after watching the stream where you mentioned it. Thanks for the response, I have put off changing out the board so I could help others but maybe it's time.
Hi do you know what pin board configuration use for cr10-v3? Thanks
I don't know that board, not sure which one it is. If it's the 8bit board, they don't have any extra pins to add this.
How about just using a time delay relay and a CT switch. Time delay relay will cut power to the printer after an adjustable time. The CT switch (adjustable current level), would be set to open the signal to the time delay relay when the printer is idling.
That sounds like a great setup. I wonder what the cost would be?
@@ChrisRiley very cheap. Maybe 30 bucks total
could you make a video of how to do this on klipper using a relay module
I'll see what I can do
This sounds amazing for my printer with octoprint. I've been eaning to add a relay to mine but i'm lazy and really scared of 220v. MY PSU is insanely loud (that dumb fan...) so I can't leave it on 24/7 and instead use the 24v rail
Go for it!
@@ChrisRiley but it's 2 spooky 4 me IRL.
also i'm laaaaazy. currently spending everyday fixing and modifying doot changer. my multi material prints are coming out ugly and taming the stringing from tool changes is being a pain!
@@ameliabuns4058 Dialing in the tool changes is the worst!
do you know how to do this procedure for the BIQU B1 printer?
I don't, I no longer have the B1, but it should be really close to the same thing we are doing here. It should have PW-DET pins you can use.
I just use a really cheap smart plug, that connects to my phone over wifi and I set a timer for an extra fifteen minutes after the print is due to finish so it just cuts power. I also have a baby monitor camera that connects over wifi too so if I'm not confident the print has finished, I can just check the camera on my phone before turning the plug off from my phone too. Cost very little and I don't have to mess with the printer at all.
That's great! Thanks for watching!
Exactly what I do. I like the Wi-Fi baby monitor idea. Seems like it would be a cheaper option too. Going to look into that.
People overthink everything it's funny. I'd rather spend time creating then doing things that aren't necessary.
Hi, i installed octoprint on a old Linux PC, but i don't have understood if i can controll my 3d printer remotely from a windows pc, and i can't install the Octoeverywhere plugin
You should be able to put in the IP of your linux server in your browser. Try adding :5000 to the end.
Hello Chris, I just saw your video of prusa Enclosure, and I’m gonna make it, I just have one problem, I’m from Mexico and we don’t have ikea, at least not in my city, I look at ikea page for measurements of the lack table, and that way I can make it myself, and they don’t put the legs measurements, can you help with the length of the legs please.
Sure, the legs are 50mmx50mmx400mm
Can you do one on turning it back on? You said if your board has 5 volts, you can power it back on; how do you give the board 5v when using a PSU? Can you power it both by 5 volts and the PSU?
I've thought about doing one of those types of video before, I will look into it.
what i know, for the connector above ps_on to detect short circuit from mother board and force power off when short circuit occurs. while the jumper is used to activate the feature on the module. sorry I used a translator.
Yes, i still need to play around with it some. I want to try 2 power supplies as well.
no es ese un circuito de enclavamiento de programación en escalera?
Good question, I don't know. It would be very similar to a PLC for sure..
Why not just use an Octoprint plugin with a smart plug like a TP-Link Kasa smartplug. Then Octoprint can shut the printer off in case of thermal runaways. These smartplugs are like $10-20. You can set this up in less than 10 minutes without any special wiring or anything. It can even power your printer on automatically when you send it a print job.
That would work too!
There are so many ways to do it. Chris mentioned some and showed one relatively cost effective.
I use a sonoff basic with tasmota firmware. I remixed one of the meanwell lrs 350 psu enclosures to also enclose the sonoff. Works great with the tasmota octo plugin
This is what I do because you can set it to shut off if there are errors too.
@Chris... Is it possible to use BIGTREETECH-Relay on a 1.4 ramps?
Yes, you have lots of pins on RAMPS you can setup to use this relay.
@@ChrisRiley TKS, I just installed it and it's working perfectly as it should using version 1.2 of BIGTREETECH.
Hi friend, I made an upgrade today in my Ender 3 Pro with the new BigTreeTech - SKR Mini E3 v3.0 mother board and it has automatic shutdown and power-ff resume. But I will still need to buy another board to do this or it's a only software change to able ? Thank you!
Hey, it's only a software change. You will need to get the source from the BTT github and enable that feature.
@@ChrisRiley I am looking for this procedure but I can not find anything about it. Could you please help me with some links my dear friend? Thank you so much! Luis
Is the reset switch needed if you are switching the mains power?
Not sure on how you have it wired, but it the 5v gets tripped from the pin, you will have to reset it somehow.
Just finished setup on UBL according to your tutorial. I see that Marlin source changed a lot from your video back in 2019. Maybe you can consider an update?
I'll look into it, thanks!
Great video ! I’m sorry if my question is very stupid but we can’t just buy a simple delay module (1 dollar on aliexpress) ?
Interesting, do you have a link to one?
My mistake i said delay, i wanted to say relay haha, here's a link : fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005001700441473.html?channel=twinner
@@Samson_ktn Oh yeah, those would work just fine. Pretty much the same thing.
Could also I connect the tft70 PSON to the relay as well? Basically can I connect both the board PSON and the TFT70 PSON to the relay at the same time? Or would the G-code off command work through the screen PSON? Thanks
You would have to do one or the other. You would either be dependent on either the firmware on the screen or the board to trigger the power event.
@@ChrisRileyBummer so what happens if you uncomment it in both firmwares?
@@ChrisRiley Since I have a TFT70 screen I don't see a reason to run it through the board right? Is there any advantage to run through the board? Ill be using the inputs on the screen and Octoprint to transfer files to the printer. I assume octoprint runs through the board looks like I might be screwed huh? BTW Thanks I appreciate all the help!
@@PalosX They should work the same way, the screen just adds another layer. You're welcome.
Chris keeps making me buy stuff !! I'd send him a bill.....but since this project should save me money, I'll let him off this time🤣
Thanks!
How much electricity does a printer actually use when it has finished printing? my end g-code is set up to turn off the nozzle and bed and only have the 24v electronics fan active and I always have my personal assistant set an alarm to notify me of the estimated print time finish so then I look on Octoprint to see if it has finished, I think I would only need this if a print finished while I was sleeping but I try to plan large and long prints so they don't finish in the middle of the night
That works too! Thanks for watching
i just have a wifi outlet and after i get an alert the print is done i can ask google if im home of go in manually and turn off the circuit.
That's a good idea!
With an SKR, say. a mini e3 V2 with a PS on pin, plugged Ito a relay such as the btt 1.2, how would you configure those in Klipper. It uses pin PC13. Would this be a gpio device, or a Klipper device? Just wondering how to define and use them in Klipper, as this seems a cleaner way to do it over running wires to the pi's GPIO.
I think you could do it either way, but I've never tried it. I will take a look. I think I would start with it as a board device to keep it simple.
@@ChrisRiley that’s what I did. :)
$5 Sonoff basic flashed with Tasmota running in home assistant, why because everyone should be running home assistant I have mine set to shut down both my pi and ender 3 pro when temps go lower than 90F
🙂👍
I went with an IOT relay so I didn't have to mess with mains wiring or take apart my printer's electronics. I avoided tplink because a wifi disruption would have been a potential failure point. My relay is controlled by a raspi running a python script that also takes regular temperature measurements inside my enclosure. It's programmed to shut down immediately if the temp exceeds 40C (fire mitigation), and to detect the end of a print when the temp decreases for 10 straight minutes, then wait another 20 minutes (so the hot end cools down) and then shut down. I may add a smoke sensor to trigger a shutdown as well.
That's great! Thanks for your insight!
Interesting solution. I use a temp fuse that blows at 80C to prevent overheating of the enclosure.
@@lortnokmeister interesting. Where did you connect the fuse?
ah, bummed you didn't go the tplink/tasmota route with one of my OctoPrint plugins.
That would be a great setup too!
Thats what I was thinking, since you can get those smart plugs for so cheap now.
I'm using your Tasmota plug-in to turn off my printer since like forever :D so great! Thanks for the great work, Jim
@@genau14zeichen thanks, I try.
I have the IoT one on one printer and a relay setup that I have made myself. The one I build uses a 4 relay board that gets controlled by octoprint the enclosure plugin. The one I built has 4 individually controlled outlets. can control printer, lights fans, heater, ect It is not something who doesnt know what they are doing with electricity.
Definitely, thanks for watching!
Hey Chris, just above the title of this video it has a Kansas City tag I havent noticed before. Do you know what thats about?
That's where I'm from. :)
@@ChrisRiley Oh rad, I moved up here about 5 years ago. Up in Parkville by the University :)
We're neighbors! I'm in Liberty
@@ChrisRiley Awesome, Hi Neighbor! Thanks for making all these videos for learning. Still lost but it will make sense soon enough.
My experience with this board was that I didn't really need to change my Gcode. the board shuts off after 30 seconds of low activity by itself.
👍🙂
I would just use an Industrial Weil-McLain 510-350-223 - Plug In Relay w/ 24V Holding Coil , just code to switch the 24v coil on /off ...
Great, thanks for your insight!
I think that you could use the raspberry pi with octoprint to activate the reset to be able to remotely turn your printer back on.
OctoPrint would be a good setup too!
How would that work? Can you share some insights?
@@christophkiefer Sorry man, I do not have the device Chris is using so I cant give a definitive answer. I was thinking maybe the reset pin? Instead of using a button it would get wired to the GPIO. It is just a relay after all and I have wired a number of those up to the GPIO for power and other things.
Or you could just use a Smart plug.
2:30 the pins are in chinese? I don't see anything except english silkscreened on the board.
I meant the document.
OK but isn't everyone the President and CEO of their basement?
If you're lucky! 🤣
Heads up: If you live anywhere that uses German sytle Schuko power plugs, you should NOT use this since those do not have polarity protection, so if you plug it in the "wrong" way, you'll have the line on what is labeled as N and the relay will close the connection on the neutral.
Thanks!
Emm....the blade connectors used for mains electricty should have been the covered or sheathed type to properly isolate them being so close to one another on the IEC connector and yes screws should be mandatory on any mains voltage box / casing lid otherwise all looked good!
Thanks, yes, I should switch to those with the covers.
hello friend how are you, your video seems to be very instructive for the maker world, but it doesn't have translation options and it would be very interesting if you could give this option to us, so that we can have a better use of your videos. In my case Portuguese (Brazil). Thanks in advance.
Unfortunately, TH-cam is not very helpful when it comes to translation. We'll work on it.
This can be done with home assistant and any smart plug. Wiring it directly to the board is an option, but in the event of a firmware error, you no longer control the state of the power. Also, it's be nice to see the power state remotely without checking octoprint
Thanks for your insight!
They should have an ac/ 5vdc transformer built into that board to power the mainboard and on switch
Shutting the printer off also saves always on fans from running 24/7
👍🙂
This might be useful for someone else:- If when you power this up, after a few seconds the relay clicks and it all goes off, then you do a reset - it powers on - then the relay goes off a few seconds later again = either your thin cable that goes to your controller is disconnected, or in my case the cables pins are wired the wrong way around (ground and signal), which was how the cable arrived. Something to watch out for.
Thanks for the info!
Be careful with those unshielded blade connectors. Should be as safe as possible with AC. Shielded spades would be better. Regardless, thanks for the great video.
Thanks for the tips!
this is def useful and interesting, but if electricity is so expensive where you live that a non-printing, not heating printer makes any kind of significant dent in your power bill, it might be time to move.
Flashforge and their obnoxiously loud always on fans come to mind.
@@Dustinspeed1 that is a very valid point. i've been building my own printers for a few years now and i forget that some of these damn printers sound like jets at takeoff.
If not for power savings, less fan noise is a great feature!
Why do you care to switch of the steppers and fan before switching off the printer?
In this setup, it really doesn't matter, but if you wanted to use this for a power recovery, you would want to keep that in there.
@@ChrisRiley Why? Will the stepper "jump" otherwise?
@@rondlh20 No, it's just to give you more time when the power goes out.
The European colors are not black, white, green
but brown (or black), blue, yellow-with-green-stripes. Be aware that brown or blue can be hot because the plug doesn't ensure that. Everything that is green and yellow means protective earth.
Thank you
I rather use the ssr what vorons configuration has
Thanks for your insight
Or just buy a lerdge k board it does it automatically supposedly .
That might work.
IMO PSU Control is the best. You could turn the printer off after it's cooled, and also you can turn it back on.
Thanks for your insight!
Just buy a smart plug, turn it off from your phone. Or even better just leave it run, uses squat for electricity just sitting idle. You'd spend more buying parts to shut it down than the printer would use in electricity over years sitting idle.
Thanks for your insight!
@@ChrisRiley I leave my two Prusa printers run all the time. They are on a smart plug, but I don't use it to turn off when not printing.
I have a Hubitat hub which controls alot of the automation in the house. In the printer room a have a smart smoke detector, which if triggered will shut the smart plug off.
I think I prefer my out off solution from 2016. If your printer turns its cooling fan off when the print is done then use that same voltage to control a SSR.
th-cam.com/video/_YWDOUuHc9U/w-d-xo.html
Great idea! Thanks for watching
just use octopi and a camera after the print is done turn it off with a smart plug.
Thanks!
I will never get my head around the North American wiring colour conventions. Using black for hot side just makes no sense to a European.
'Merica! 😉
@@ChrisRiley At least you got the signal wires the correct way around lol
Does your main board send 5v to the relay for the relay to switch the PSU on or off? Lastly what’s powering your main board up if not the PSU?
Yes, the mainboard is sending 5v to switch the PSU off. Nothing, in this config the relay will only power it off, you have to manually reset to turn it back on.