I 3D Printed an iPhone!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- Don’t miss out on Bambu Lab’s most exciting deals of the year! From December 3rd to January 3rd, explore amazing offers on their End-of Year Page and grab the best deal of the season: shareasale.com... 🎄
To get all my design files and 3D print your own iPhone, sign up to my Patreon: / strangeparts
I 3D printed my own iPhone out of nylon carbon fiber, and it no only works, but it feels great in the hand. It's totally possible to print a working iPhone on a regular consumer 3D printer. This is a huge step towards allowing anyone to make their own unique smartphone!
Gridfinity Storage Box: www.printables...
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Credits:
Scotty Allen - Host
Alex Gorovenko - Junior Engineer
Creator Engine - Editors
Billy Shapiro - Editor/Camera operator
Dylan Hora - Camera operator
Leander Dykes - Photographer
#bambulab #bambulabX1C #bambulabA1C #bambulabs
Don’t miss out on Bambu Lab’s most exciting deals of the year! From December 3rd to January 3rd, explore amazing offers on their End-of Year Page and grab the best deal of the season: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2683783&u=4535669&m=138211&urllink=&afftrack= 🎄
To get all my design files and 3D print your own iPhone, sign up to my Patreon: patreon.com/strangeparts
I just bought one. Thanks for the discount.
I've had an X1C for several years from now; when they first came out. I could not agree with you more. It is an appliance that you do not have to fiddle with. I just received a Creality K2 MAX and I can say the same thing about it and it is slightly faster than the X1C.
Question: In your patreon, do you have links to buy all the iPhone internals and can they SN's of the various parts (camera or what not) be made to work with the CPU board?
@@Daveyk021 I don't have links to all the iPhone internals individually. I do have links to all the _other_ materials you need though, like heat threaded inserts and whatnot. It's honestly easier (and likely cheaper) to start from a working used phone, and transplant the parts over, rather than trying to buy all the parts piecemeal.
@@StrangePartsthis is the type of content youtube honestly needs lol, youtube has just gone way off track from what it’s meant to be
@@StrangeParts If I have a working used iPhone, why do I need to 3d print a case for it? The title of the article indicates you are making am iPhone. From what I've seen from Rossman, Apple serializes the display, cameras, etc, to make it almost impossible to repair and iPhone, let alone make one from parts derived from China.
Woah 3 Strange Parts videos in One month? We’re in for a Treat
strange
Nice
now we just need a 3-Part Strange Parts video series
@ I don't quite understand what part you're referring to.
Make the back glass removable so we can swap the battery like on old phones!
Deal:)
I don’t want to rain on the parade, but it would have to be the screen with how the iPhone 12 is designed, however there are many phones where that would be awesome
Not inherently… though I guess the wireless charging coil is in the way.
@@StrangeParts Wouldn't be possible to design very thin holding piece/bracket that would allow charging coil to be moved out of the way when you want to replace the battery?
There would be a problem with the magsafe coils and magnet in that step i think..
You wouldn't download a PHONE!
I regret not including this in the video.
Now I can download phone and ram 😂
Why not? I would if I had the electronics already
@@Ltldrkit's a meta joke originating from an anti-piracy campaign: "you wouldn't download a car!"
People's response was basically: "what? Hell yeah I would!"
I absolutely would :P
You should try printing this with polycarbonate for better stiffness. Remember iPhone 5C .. it was polycarbonate with herbs and spices iirc.
Oh, interesting. My material science knowledge is weak - it's something I really need to read up more on. And I know very little about the 5C. I do have some PC filament on hand though, so I'll give this a shot. Thanks for the tip!
Subjective, but I think PC feels nicer to touch than CF-anything, PETG, ASA and even PLA.
“Prusa Material Table” covers the basics of material science for 3D printing. I use it when I forget which plastic can be printed on which build-plate.
The 5c had a metal frame to which the polycarbonate back was melted on
PC also comes in natural/transparent. Will not be completely see trough when 3D printed but I think it will have a interesting look
This is one of the reasons why I want a 3d printer. I've always wanted to make a large battery capacity smartphone that basically lasts the entire week/s on one charge. Although it would be thicker it would be beneficial to also even beef up the passive cooling of the phone.
I don't see it as a problem if the phone gets thicker. It'll get rid of that fugly camera bump they put on since the iPhone 6 :)
I love that you're back to uploading vids again!
Me too!
Hear hear!
Just FYI when you use the support PLA you want to use it only on the interface layers. Using it for the support base will massively expand your print time and waste a lot of purged material. Bambu recommends only to use it on the interface.
Yeah, I figured this out later :)
I was about to comment the same thing. It's also expensive so you want to save all you can lol.
Was about to comment the same thing. Also may be worth looking at organic supports
And use organic supports, petg is actually a better support interface then the pva Bambu’s gives you.
What about radiation? Phones are rated for that and I am sure the materials may change the exposure level , very interesting experiment though
When you miss the iPhone 5C so much, you 3D print a phone casing
I'm happy to see a youtuber promote a product while also admitting that products competitors are capable as well.
It's nice to see how helpful the comment section is when it comes to 3D printing, just because it's cheaper, easier to learn, and more available to the public. It would be nice to see you using it more because you are one of those tinkerers who can take it to the next level with a bit of research on the topic. Keep up the good work!
If you stop the print before it starts bridging over the cavity for the backglass and place the glass on the print bed you could probably print directly on the glass reducing the need for supports.
Ooh, this is an interesting idea. I can't believe I didn't think of that!
Indeed, though might need to make the brim a little bigger that it really needs to be in all dimensions so the glass can actually slip in without burning your fingers (and probably should have the glass on the heated bed out of the way so its already a bit warm before you insert it).
I really enjoy your videos, and it's great to see you're back in action. As a retired machinist, I have to say your desktop milling machine iPhone build was a brilliant demonstration of using every last drop of a machines work envelope. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks! I was pretty proud of how many tricks I was able to come up with to pull that off.
3d printed iphone with 1) 3.5 headphone jack 2) heat dissipating sync 3) transparent with led rgb 4) sell 3d print models with iphone parts found in Chinese market 5)Detachable modules like for power bank and extended antina for better cell reception its endless possibilities 6)adaptive triggers for gamming 3d printed 7) a gamming 3d print casing.
that is a massive gore idea
THIS MIGHT BE IT...... MODULEABLE IPHONE?????????????
i hope you don't need to get through airport security because that would look really suspicious hahaha
@@2small4theMall 3d printed iPhone with emp module to jam the airport security systems!
There is a trick for overhangs using different materials. For example PLA and PETG do not stick to each other. So you could design your own solid support structure and separate it with a single layer of a different material to get a smooth finish.
Do you do this with a single extruder or double extruder? If single: how much material do you purge between filament changes? I've had some pretty horrible results when I forgot to purge properly between PLA prints and PETG prints. So far I've shied away from mixed materials on my single extruder printer.
@@KonradTheWizzard I only have a single extruder. Usually I purge 50-100 (mm is the unit in octoprint I guess) between different materials. I also like to retract by 10 between two purges. Don’t know though if that really makes a difference.
@@orange_district Thanks! I'll experiment a bit over the next weekend.
The section at the end where you talk about what you want from a 3D printer and how the Bambu Lab printer does that for you is EXACTLY my sentiments. I was gesticulating and shouting at the screen, "Yes! YES! Exactly!" It's also the reason I fell in love with my Bambu Lab A1 printer after having built a DIY HICTOP years ago and having nothing but issues.
If that is the new Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack plate in the beginning you do NOT need adhesive for it there in the first print (I assume you were just using PLA/PETG there for the first iteration), adhesive is not recommended for that plate.
It's not - this is the old cool plate. But I really want to try the SuperTack! Last I looked, it was out of stock.
@@StrangeParts cool beans. Just stood out to me because when they sent me the new cool plate to test I started slathering it up with glue like a duff haha.
Ha! Yeah, maybe I need to reach out and see if they have one reserved for reviewers they can send me.
@@StrangeParts it's a great plate, almost too good at adhesion.
I got a P1P for Christmas from my family and ordered a supertack right around the 24th/25th of december. Not sure if its just the Bambu EU store that had them in stock though.
Omg you really outdone yourself once again
And also great to see you better!❤
13:00 - Yass! Even common consumer printers are capable of amazing quality, and continue to get better day by day. We like to print the big stuff, but when you really need those fine details, FDM printing has no problem handling those tiny scales with decent dimensional accuracy. Great project! By all rights, that's the style of iPhone I oughtta have…. while living in a 3D printed house….
Learned a new trick with 3d printing that could come in handy for ya. Some materials wont stick to others, like PLA and PETG, so you to make supports even easier to remove you can select your support interface to be a filament that wont stick to the filament your using for your main print. Its neat.
Do you think it would be possible to 3D print a good leather case for my iPhone 16 pro max? I miss the old Apple leather cases...
Probably, if you can't I'd say go for the Vionentus cases 💞
I agree 👍
I think it would be awesome to see a transparent iPhone housing made with clear filament or resin. They used to sell these for the iPhone 5 to 6s a few years ago.
> "Let's make is accessible"
> Uses a 3D printer
Sir you and I are on different playing fields.
Well think about it, it gives you the ability to do it yourself if you have a printer or you get the print files and sent them to a production company that does prints for you. There are multiple options that allow you to upload a file and they print it for you. Depending on the average 3d printer on the market it might even be worth it for a person that owns a printer but does not have the printing resolution some of these printing companies can achieve.
"I can just add a millimetre or two of thickness to give myself a bit more support."
It's Christmas.
Emotionally, we're sharing this sentiment with you, one chocolate at a time.
This is so cool. I want to try a version of this that may incorporate a modified design or playing around with multi material TPU/ PC to increase drop protection compared to the design in the video. After like 6 months of r&d, I also just finished designing 3d printed bumper cases for iPhones 12 and up. They should be on Maker World sometime soon and I'd like to sell higher quality versions in the future.
Oh man, I feel so validated after watching these videos. Iteration over iteration until you get what you want. And all this time I was feeling like a loser because I was not getting the results that I wanted on the first couple of tries. Awesome video, thanks Scotty!
7:20 Hey, I got the impression that you paused the process manually during the printing (i didn't see any pause labels in the slicer before the print). There is a much easier way, when you slice the print, on the right there is a vertical slider for switching layers, right click on a specific layer on the slider and you can add the pause into the gcode itself. I use it all the time when i add magnets to my prints.
I've never understood people who like 3D printers as a hobby myself. Its an amazing tool and the X1C has made prototyping SO much nicer than my Prusa Mini. I'm in love. Had mine fore about a month or so.
Hi Scotty, What can I say, you really are the "iPhone Guy." You are really innovative in making an iPhone from scratch, now 3d printing it. you are awesome man... I am looking forward foor the 3d printed iPhone XR... more power to you and your channels....
Que bueno verte de vuelta con buen contenido!!!
I think the filament for support that you are looking for is called PVA it is a water soluble filament that is used for supports in printing, it is somewhat expensive compared to other filaments, but in my experience, it is worth it. I wish it was cheaper for the amount that you get, but it is 100% worth it in every way possible. You let your print soak in water for about 24 hours and all the supports go away. Hope that helps!
Aluminum or gold casting can be done in the iPhone back cover housing mold printed with an SLA printer. I think it can be an alternative to CNC.
I never realized that the CNC printed part was the roadway to a perfected 3d model that can be used for 3d printing as well, superb!
You can get really nice supported surfaces using PETG as the interface layer, too.
You don't know how much empathy I feel every time something breaks or something doesn't go as expected, I've been there. This is experimentation taken onto a whole new level, thank you! I wish you more than luck, mate.
Half way through the video I am like "dude, it was already past midnight, aren't you late to start parking!!" 😅
would be so cool if you made another one but with SLA and made it see through. it would also solve the issue with the screws and rigidity
You are what I wish I had the talent, money and time to do. Thank you for being the guy in my head!
Try the 0.2 nozzle for better details and more precise holes
He is printing it with Carbon Fiber infused material, so it's not possible to use lower than 0.4 nozzle.
@@HksF16
For Bambu CF this might be true but there are CF filaments you can print with a 0.2 nozzle.
@@-eMpTy- Either way, if the filaments are abrasive its strongly recommended to be printed with 0.4 or above and preferably 0.6.
We are SO back! Let's go!!
So happy that you seem to be feeling better, and back to uploading. 😀
Because of him i assembled iphone 7 plus in 2017-18.
I happy to see him healthy and positive.
This is the definition of DIY
Hell yeah, the rebirth of the iphone "5C"! 😂😂😂
Out of my 7 printers, the P1S and A1 mini almost always get used before any of my creality, anycubic, or elegoo machines. TPU is the only exception since it feeds much easier without going though a reverse bowden tube and the creality sprite extruders seem to grip TPU and TPE the best out of any extruder I've tried.
If you dont need to print TPU or other elastic type filament super fast, the A1 mini is the obvious recommendation for most people interested in getting a 3d printer. Most things will print in the 180cm^3 build volume, and the print quality and ease of use FAR surpass anything else in the price range, and you have the option of adding multi-color with an ams down the road.
I'm just bought Bambu A1 mini recently, and it been amazing. One of the coolest tech-thing I ever own
For replacing a factory part (Intel NUC case) with very small screws and standoffs, I've often used a printed standoff with a through hole and a counterbored/sunk screw hole on the backside and nuts mounting the PCB (screw head and nut orientation optional). This helps a lot with standoffs that need to be thin walled to clear a PCB which would be too thin for an brass insert. The rear glass would be good at hiding the screw heads in this case.
Working with this tiny scale can be pretty difficult, but doable!
The good part of a 3d printed phone frame in CF nylon is that you never miss your daily dose of carbon fiber under your skin
I have an 8 year old daughter who asked for a 3d printer for Christmas, i got her a bambu labs a1mini wirh the ams lite and im hooked . Lol this might be a fun project for us down thr line. I always enjoy your content.
Oh geez. I randomly remembered you making an iphone before and wondered if someone made a 3D printed one and saw this new upload! That’s crazy!
The last few minutes of your video really resonate with me. I’d love a 3D printer, but there’s no point unless there’s a load of genuine uses that are better and more convenient than just going onto Amazon. Feels like that’s closer now than ever.
the man is a genius. how could he not work in a big company
this is genuinely something i have never even thought that would be possible. THIS IS CRAZY YO. absolutely amazing work my guy. genuinely truly absolutely amazing, just bought some maintenance parts for my prusa mini, gonna definitely try to print this now. :)
This is incredible, I didn’t see print your phone as the obvious next step that it is milling your own!! Brilliant!
Since you're making it why not use the same type of screws everywhere? That'd have made life easier!
I've been thinking about this for months, but not just imitating Apple's original design but making your own using the same components.
be careful with the CF-Nylon filament it has very small CF threads that stick to your skin or go airborn and its almost impossible to get them out and if they get into your lungs you have problems just use a well ventilited area and maybe a breathing mask
Only if you do any post processing on CF parts, such as sanding
@@Daan87423 no if you look at the filament under a microscope you can see the small hairs also if you handle the filament without gloves you can see some of those hairs stick into your skin under a microscope
basically treat carbon fiber like it's asbestos.
Great to see you rocking again! You had me worried for some time! Just take care of yourself and don't push harder than you can sustainably do❤
You should try and cnc a back for the newer iPhones that have the removable back glass, that would be sick af and would allow people to make full metal iphones again like the 5
THIS!
My man, you do post less videos but when you do...its quite an entertaining and satisfying experience. keep it up. I wish you well.
While more difficult and probably not as good quality, I have printed a carbon fiber nylon on my A1.
Recently picked up an A1 Mini as a second machine and Iove them both.
Love the little @ZackFreedman shoutout with the gridfiniti
Gridfinity is amazing and also a curse 😁
@ love a TH-camr that replies to comments 😁👍
You have your STEP files, you can easily convert to OBJ or STL or export directly from fusion. I was thinking about suggesting 3D printing a backing, but wasn't sure if you'd read or not lol
Just a heads up, generally you're supposed to have only the support interface made from that easy removal filament. It saves on expensive filament and way more often than not, saves a lot on print time. Also, check your number of interface layers, you might find that increasing that will result in a smoother finish on the printed part
another one? dudes on fire lately. keep this shit going
I love the candid style of your videos, as if we're going through the process and learning along with you. awesome work as well
Bambu didn't just make a 3D printer, they changed the entire industry. I've got over 6k hours of print time on my X1C
As a lover and long-term loyal user of the iPhone minis, these 3D-printing/CNC methods could mean spectacular things for future custom mini-editions of phones!!
Totally!
@@StrangePartsthanks for putting in the early work! Always easier for us laymen to refine than establish a method!
For the storage bin printing, specially for the smaller gridfinity boxes, use the leftover rolls for them.
I have printed all my storage from left over filaments that otherways would have gone to waste.
That's some awesome stuff Sir! Big thumbs up for your dedication and attention to detail as always! Regarding the supports issues, maybe you could use PETG as support material, as PLA won't stick to it. There are some great tutorials about doing it with this technique and how to tweak the slicer's support options and get great results. Big hug from Argentina!
Would love to see a iPhone made on a cnc out of clear acrylic/perspex! Get to see all the beautiful tech inside!
possibly the best way to do that is just print the frame, then use a clear back glass replacement.
Actually you wouldn't see much. If you made the rear glass clear, all you'd be able to see is the rear shield plate and the NFC coils. And you probably wouldn't be able to see much from the sides.
He's back!
I’ve been waiting for a video like this for years! If I had access to a 3D printer I would’ve tried it myself lol
Thanks for doing this ❤
Imagine in future he makes the full body with pure titanium 🤯🤯🤯
Omg 😱you literally read my mind! I've wondered for a long time if that was possible! Your iphone turned out really cool!😄
I have an A1 and A1 Mini, the mini is usually my go to because I have the AMS lite attached to it and the regular A1 is single color at this time.
Makers Muse tested (and tortured) the mini, it was beyond his expectations. I am impressed the details it can retain from the original 3D model.
Remember when printing you are adding material so usually holes need to be bigger, with CNC machining you are removing material
I know this is just a video about bambulab but i still really enjoyed watching it and i would love to see more 3d printed stuff.
You could use a smaller nozzle to get more fine details. And resin printers could also work!
So you took my idea to 3d print it!? Very nice sir
I used soluable suppoert but removing them is a pain even with a bath with pump it gets sticky and goey, best to use non binding filament type, each type has its complement that it doesnt adhere to and peels off of it like it wasnt there, but you can simple pirnt on it. Best method unless you have cavities that you can not reach into.
Another fantastic StrangeParts video! Thanks Scotty! A wooden phone next! I’d work with you on it 😂
Hell yeah. Always happy to see another Stranger Parts video. Hope you're doing well, dude.
everyone on planet earth would worship you if you released the stl files (jk about everyone, I sure would lol)
P1S is the best of the bunch if you are looking to use pretty much every filament out there. If you are just using pla or just want a solid printer the a1 mini is also an absolute workhorse. Have both for the shop.
I would advise using BVOH soluble filament instead of PVA due to improved printability and reduced dissolve time
Oh, interesting. I didn’t know about BVOH.
Hey Scotty great work ! Your enthusiasm as always is appreciated. All the best in the New Year .
Merry late Christmas and Happy new year Scotty! The fact you never give up is inspiring
The Apple Assassins watching this video like "We have a code Icarus"
Love the 80s build montage music! Awesome video.
The iPhone assembly montage gives big Prothean Beacon vision vibes
go one step beyond: use a vacuum blu-ray drive box to make your own 150nm chips, using normal dvd discs as the uv-laser resist platform, and add ion accelerator heads to grow ion layers and embed ions into the chip. standard cmos process. you can also use the same parts to do spectroscopy of the made chips. yes it will look very much like a small dvd micro-wave oven. Jensen better watch out. yep the ion pvd can also grow metals and other crystals, oxides.
Awsome. Now its time to build an iphone with two batteries, multiple type c ports, headphone jack, Ethernet and HDMI 😂
awesome concept! One thing to know about the Bambu support material is that you should only be using it for the interface layer(s) of the supports, not the entire support structure. You will find it much easier to work with, and you will use much less support filament. Plus it saves you way more time because it will only need to change filament on a few layers, rather than every single layer of the print to the top of the supports.
I really liked the part where he actually showed the finished phone. Makes watching the whole 17minutes and 53 seconds really worth it…..
I really like an iPhone or a Mac made out of plastic because it has a far lower co2 footprint than machining every single phone out of aluminium.
Very cool. I just ordered the A1 combo on Dec 17th and it will be my first ever 3d Printer, though they are backed up right now and its not expected to ship out until like Jan 13th. Good things come to those who wait though :)
I didn’t watch yet but know I’ll enjoy it. Keep the good work 💪🏻
So pleased that you’ve found another iconic project.
Looking forward to the new workshop video too.
Definitely get the heat insert tool for your soldering iron. Really helps get them vertical. Amazon, and they work with any modern iron. I've ruined several prints when the insert gets stuck to the soldering tip. No more!
Yep! Stephan from CNC Kitchen gave me some of the heat insert tools he sells, which are great, but they only go down to M3 (I think). I need to source some for M1 and M1.2.
would love to see the iphone 15-16 housing get some STLs considering the the back glass and and parts are much more modular, great vid!