For anyone struggling with a 4.2.7 board and using the 5 pin BLTOUCH connecter: I followed the video, and after uploading, my Z axis would only go up during auto home. The solution was to COMMENT OUT //#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN and UNCOMMENT #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default. Michael, your videos are the BEST.
I tried both ways and my ender 5 pro with 4.2.2 motherboard still won't homing 😟The bed just go down but never go up even if I try it manualy from display. Any idea what I'm doing wrong ? I use Creality BLTouch vith 5 pin conector
UPDATE: This seems to be working for people with the 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards. When adding a BLtouch, please actually use the provided wiring diagram! Too many comments here about just plugging it in and frying boards. The (colour coded) diagrams I provide are to avoid this from happening so please use them. Two corrections: 1. When specifying the environment in platformio.ini, I should have had a capital F in my graphic: STM32F103RET6_creality 2. The CR-6 SE has a different board. Thanks to Sebastiaan Dammann for the following information: "The CR-6 board is supposed to have TMC2209 drivers and not TMC2225. The TMC2209 drivers were a Kickstarter stretch goal - which has been reached. You can see a picture of the TMC2209 driver here: facebook.com/groups/cr6community/permalink/907195406473518/?comment_id=907405066452552&reply_comment_id=907736776419381 II don't know how these drivers are connected though (UART or standalone). Also, the board version is v4.5.2 - not v4.2.7. Check this: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10157803199746200&set=g.839170129942713 Since there have been multiple cases of the stepper driver in the top right of that picture - for the extruder I guess - burning out, it may be possible a new revision of the board is being developed. The CR-6 board also has an extra stepper driver because it has two Z-axis lead screws."
Do you need to re-align the wires on the bltouch side as well, or just on the motherboard side? I reset the wires on the motherboard side and the bl touch responds (test probes, and will blink if it's too close to the bed) when I turn the printer on (installed the 4.27 custom firmware you provided) but it doesn't probe on command and can't be controlled from the settings
Will this wire work instead of the 3+2 Connectors that come with the BLTOUCH? www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B083GQHG5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A note: Recently, I tried using the environment variable STM32F103RET6_creality, however this has failed when building in VSCode. The reason is because Marlin has changed it to STM32F103RE_creality. Use STM32F103RE_creality for newer versions of Marlin. Also, if you get an error about FAN_SOFT_PWM, make sure to go into the config file and uncomment FAN_SOFT_PWM line
Heads up: at 8:15, the call out on the right side of the frame is capitalized differently than the actual code on the left side of the frame. "STM32F103RET6_creality" as shown on the left is correct. The project will not compile if you use STM32f103RET6_creality as shown on the right.
works mega, just a few things that took me a while to understand for any one following along: -you have to download platformIO IDE for vs code -when he says open the marlin file in vs code he means the entire unzipped file not the marlin folder inside(learnt that the hard way) mega video works a treat thank you
This video was insanely valuable to me! You really helped me out of a jam with being stuck on updating my firmware. I thought I bricked my brand new silent board, but this video gave me the exact information I needed. Thank you!
Just want to say a big thank you, I installed new firmware weeks ago and the BLtouch stopped probing, the nozzle crashed in to the bed and after watching your video....I have managed to sort everything back to being able to print normally. I am new to 3D printing and learning a lot from the experts like yourself. many many thanks
A quick reminder for those who purchased the Creality BLtouch kit: The cable provided by the kit does not work with Ender 3 V2 because they change the GND and VCC orientation. I did not realize this when I tried to install it and I fried my mainboard. A quick fix: you can swap the blue (GND) and red (VCC) cable by using a tweezer. Use the tip of the tweezer to pull up the black plastic behind each cable and swap them. I tested mine, everything works now.
my board smoked up but i shut it off immediately and swapped the wires after reading this and it didnt smoke when i turned it back on... am going to test under close observation and see if boards actually fried or not. Probably going to order a new one anyways
Sorry this happened. For next Time and others that may trad this, Creality has a video out showing the pins being reversed when using their kit on a e3v2 and swapping them Many older BL touch videos for the e3 and e3 pro, Michael may have covered this then, covered making sure the wire pins were in the correct order when using the pin 27 board. The Smith BL touch firmware download page has pictures showing different long wire extensions and what the pin order should be. I do a lot of research before any wiring or accessory change/install. I’ve learned from my mistakes to make the time.
I did the whole kit upgrade from my ender 3 pro, the 4.2.7 board, new LCD display, BL Touch and filament runout sensor. It was my first time compiling Marlin firmware and I had to build the visual studio setup. I am very grateful for the video. It was well done but did leave me wondering how the heck to install the filament sensor other than just leaving it hanging in the air. Of course I took my printer apart before realizing I needed to print the BL touch mount. After putting it back together with the new board to print the mount, I realized there is likely a mount for the sensor. My biggest challenges were needing to make the end for the z axis plug in from the parts in the BL touch kit at the extension cable had a three prong plug, not a two prong plug. And, my other challenge was not listening with Michael said that the Z offset setting that worked for him was 2.something. I was moving it .10 to .30 and I could not see it move at all. I assumed I had done something wrong, but after going over it all again and again, I finally found a post were someone pointed out that the adjustment is very fine and you would really need to get after it to see it move. I did notice that the Z offset control does move the head just by turning the dial, you do not need to click. Perhaps this is a firmware change since Michael's post. All in, this took my the better part of my Sunday, but I am thrilled to have it working and appreciate the great video. Thanks!
I added a 4.2.7 board to my stock Ender 3 and the noise reduction of the steppers was truly amazing. The hot end fan is the only thing I can hear when it's printing now.
Thanks for this amazing guide. Just wanted to mention, as of right now, uncommenting Serial Port 2 causes compiler errors, and the build fails. I have just set Serial Port 1, and left the 2nd commented out, and it worked flawlessly on my Ender 3 V2
A big thank you for this tutorial on upgrading to a 32 bit board for the Ender 3. I just bought a Creality V4.2.7 32-bit board along with their touch screen LCD panel to install in my first generation Ender 3 that's getting a little functionally antiquated and was unsure of how to go about installing the firmware. In the past I had replaced my Ender's original 8-bit board with an SKR Mini E3 board which worked well but it failed after one month and BTT refused to honor their warranty for no particular reason so I reinstalled the original board to keep my Ender running vowing to never buy another BTT product again. Hopefully this new Creality board will last longer than a month and if it does fail, Creality will honor their warranty.
Hey man thanks for going through the trouble of making this video. I bought a Creality Ender 5 Pro with the 4.2.2 silent board. I wanted to print carbon fiber ABS so I had decided to upgrade to a Micro Swiss Direct drive hot end, Bltouch, Big Tree Tech Smart Filament Sensor, Noctua fans with buck converters, Wham Bam Double Wham Flexible Build System, and 120 volt heat bed with solid state relay system. Doing this all at once! The physical install of these systems was the easy part, the firmware has been a whole different story. I have spent a couple of weeks attempting and failing at compiling the Marlin Firmware to support all this. After watching your videos about these systems I was able to finally compile a firmware that facilitates all of these systems
Thank you for the great video! Really clear and useful, helped me install the 4.2.7 (while I ordered the 1.1.5.) There were some things different than the video, but managed to get through them. I'll write them down, maybe it helps someone. 1. When copy&paste the files from configurations-folder to Marlin-folder, specific for the printer in use, the Ender 3 folder contained more folders than expected. The Examples>Creality>Ender3> has a CrealityV1 folder that contained the right files. 2. I had to install PlatformIO IDE 2.0.1 in VsCode. (also Build and Run 0.2.0 and C/C++) to get the 'build' button below in the blue bar. 3. When typing STM32F....etc... at the first VsCode edit, the letter 'f' is shown in lower case in the floating box. I did type the uppercase F, since that's what the printscreen showed. 4. After upgrading my Ender 3, all the motors went into the wrong direction. Nearly broke them. So my advise to others is to do manual movement of the XYZ first, by 1 step at the time, to see if the directions are correct. (Correct me if I'm wrong, but Positive numbers should go more Z-Up, Y-Back and X-Right.) But via Configuration_h around line 1100, i could change the motor direction by reversing the true/false. So all is fixed. Thank you!
Your guide was what I needed, however the bltouch probe does not work. Do you know how I get that to work? Thank you for what you posted there is no way I could have figured those things out without your help. I hope you can help me on this other part.
@@davidb.5046 Glad I could help. I've ordered a BLtouch and hopefully when received in a few weeks I can make it work. For now, I don't know about it. But I did find this post: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/imogwp/427bltocuh_v31/ I saved this link for when my BLTouch arrived so I could have a better look. Good luck!
First of all thank you Michael! I have the Ender 3 Pro and I have upgraded to the new motherboard v2.4.7, the trouble was when probing the bed, the BLtouch was probing outside of the bed surface. It seams to me as a problem that other users my have as well so here is my fix. In configuration.h #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -43, -5, 0 } #define PROBING_MARGIN 15 You can play around with the PROBING_MARGIN values. Happy printing everyone, kudos to Michael again !
Another update if you're using the latest bugfix releases, don't uncomment the //#define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1 line as this is now handled automatically. Otherwise errors pop up. Also, my extension cable had a 3-pin connector for the Zstop, while the Zstop on my board only uses 2. I took the connector of of the old Z stop connector (pressing down and wiggeling on the metal inserts) and exchanged those.
Another update; when using Klipper, it's best not to use the Z endstop for the BLTouch. It might work with the mod for that I guess, but I just plugged the BLTouch into the sensor pins meant for it (making more sense as well).
Thanks Michael! I got E-3Pro v1.5 about 2 month ago and it had excellent printing quality out of box. But I needed to print TPU parts for my main hobby (drones). Also manual bed levelling and stepper motors noise were irritating. So, first I installed some generic BlTouch clone, converted printer from Bowden to direct drive, and, finally, changed motherboard from Creality 4.2.2 to SKR MiniE3 v2. On the way I learned how to install VB, how to compile and debug Marlin soft. Thanks to yours videos (and I believe your videos are the best in this area) my way was far less bumpy than it could be. The hardest was BlTouch install as there were no clear explanations how to wire it up on 4.2.2 board. I had to open/close motherboard compartment at least 20 times and was ready to through BlThouch to rubbish bin. You released this video right in time to save me:) And thanks to another video of yours upgrade to SKR MiniE3 took only couple of hours and second compiled binary was fully working. Keep safe (I hope you are not in VIC:( ) and all the best!
Received my second Ender 3 Pro today. It came with the v4.2.2 board. I have already ordered the v4.2.7 board. Got the second E3P to upsize to the ender extender kit 400x 400 by 250 standard height. Just received confirmation the kit has shipped. Got it for $159.00 US with free postage to Australia. Ernie from NSW
Thanks for this, decided after 4 years it was time to upgrade my old ender 5 with the new 4.2.7 board. One thing to note, if you had TL smoothers with the old board, take them out. They actually have a detremental effect on prints and noise coming from the steppers. The new TMC drivers do not want TL smoothers it seems. Also, found TH3D new firmware worked great, while I had some issues with vanilla Marlin.
OK, I'd like to thank the living hell out of you. I spent time with your videos before really getting into the assembly and attempted first print so by the time I did the thing I just went for it. The print came out flawlessly and I can guarantee it was due to watching you and a couple of others. Patreon inbound.
Just to comment, Upgrade went as expected. I got BLTouch and Runout sensor connected and working. Screen now responds to the selection knob with no lag. I am very happy with the screen speed, Marlin 2.x upgrade and sensores. I now have printed around 30 prints without worrying about the bed level and all PLA prints have a perfect first layer. Thanks for this video!
I am new to 3d printing. I have ender3v2. I just upgraded my motherboard with v4.2.7 cuz the old one causes layer shifting. I tested the motherboard and it works fine but there was power outage and there is no resume function in this new motherboard. Can you please help?
Hello everyone. Please exercise extreme caution when installing a filament sensor by following the wiring diagram in the tutorial. Pin 1 and 3 are reversed on this picture, on the back of the board it is printed correctly. If you're installing the bigtreetech smart filament sensor as I have the wiring of that cable is completely correct! No need to try and flip the pins, in fact it can damage your printer from what I've read. So I needlessly changed mine up and then had to change back when I noticed it not working. Thank you for the video otherwise, it's been amazingly useful for me as a beginner!
Hi ! so wiring the dilament sensor like in this guide is wrong ? I wired mine like this and when the filament is switched the printer turns off the restarts... the central pin is right ? how to wire correctly ? thanks !
@@raresavram9071 the cable of the smart filament sensor if thats what you have is correct. If not the two outside pina are reversed on the board drawing in the video, center one is good
HUGE MISTAKE at 8:15. STM32F103RET6_creality is CASE SENSITIVE yet in the video you made a typo and wrote a small “f”, this needs to be a capital “F”. Took me a while to figure out what was wrong.. Other than that great video, thanks for the information.
Thank you for the video. Just a remark: On the screenshot, we can see : default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality (note the uppercase "F"). But on the text on the right, there is default_envs = STM32f103RET6_creality (note the lowercase "f"). You said that it is case sensitive. The correct one is with the uppercase "F".
Thank you for this. The first couple of times I tried to compile, it returned an error that the default environment was not recognized. Changing "f" to "F" did the trick. I didn't even notice the discrepancy in the video.
@@mills4545 When you enter the default_envs value is vscode, there is a sort of autocompletion which suggest you a value. On some version of Marlin, I remarked it suggests STM32f10.. (with the lowercase f). So I suppose this can be confusing.
We just received an Ender 3 Pro and it has the 8 bit board on it. Sept 18, 2020, bought from Amazon. Excellent video, thank you for posting. Contacting Creality to see if they might send a 32 bit board.
Not sure if you have tried the Creality 4.2.7. I have fitted this board to my Ender 3 Pro also have a complete set of 3DFUSED linear rails and double Z drive. The v4.2.7 is so quiet when sitting at my desk within arms reach I have to check that the printer is operating when I don't hear the power supply fan running occasionally. I have the Marlin Bug Fix installed on this board In my opinion this is a great board. I have a SKR V1.4 Turbo board to install in this printer but I will hold of for a while to see how this board performs. PS FYI. I solved my previous problem. Daniel from Cross Link has a great video on how to center your nozzle on your bed. Check it out. It is really great that different makers have different approaches as to what depth of tech they teach. Really good for old newbies like me. Keep up the good work and in depth reviews of new products. Regards Ernie from Tuena NSW Australia
@TeachingTech I found the diagram at imgur.com/a/8aZ0q7h to be incorrect as I described here: forums.creality3dofficial.com/community/ender-3-series/ender-3-v2-add-runout-filament-sensor/#post-1247
Just added the filament runout sensor to my Ender 3 pro as well and it makes me purge the filament every single print, is that by design? Not sure if there is a setting I need to tweak.
Another respons to this video, this time about the BLTouch for other viewers: I've installed bltouch as shown in the video. Then, when adjusting the bltouch height, I found out that the height has to be as followed: when the bltouch 'feeling point' is extended, it has to be lower than the nozzle, of course. But when retracted (that's what happens after a 'touch') it must be higher than the nozzle. An easy was is to start bltouch bed leveling, let it touch the plate our your hand, when the pin is retracted inside, turn off the printer. Then lower with the z-axis the nozzle to the bed, then adjust the bltouch height so it's 2-3mm above the bed. Then do your first bltouch bed level and let it complete. Adjust the z-probe when printing a flat wide object. In the video he says " minus 2.26 pretty ideal". But on my Ender3, older screen, I get the numbers 00.000 and then have to adjust. So I went adjusting to -01.000. Thinking this would be 1mm or 1cm. Next thing happend: I completely crushed my bltouch and nozzle into the plate. Broke it and probable made heavy damage on the z-motor! Luckily I could DIY the BLtouch and fix it, so works again. But not great! And therefor IMPORTANT: when you see your z-probe offset starting with 00.000, try to set it on 00.010 first, or maybe even 00.001. In my case, the 00.010 means 10mm. So I've got my Ender3 set on 00.016 for a good hight. Also, when printing and tuning the z-probe offset, the effect is inmediate while you set a number, so you don't have to press 'enter' to see the result. Just keep turning until the print is as you want it to be.
Hi! I followed your instructions and managed to compile my own. Then realised you did a version that I was able to download.. so did that. Thanks for your help and walk through. Much appreciated!
Comparing this to the BigTechTree's SKR E3 Mini V2, which one of these two boards are better? Better in terms of a few things; 1: Ease of Setup and configuration 2: Functionality (including sound reduction) 3: Other relative pros and cons of each What similarities do they share as well? Thank you for your time =D
Thanks for this video, it helped me a lot. I just upgraded my Ender 5 to board 4.2.7 and it wasn't as easy as I wished. I tried without modifying the firmware because the board 4.2.7 was supposed to come with the right firmware for my Ender 5 (It was a non modified Ender 5). Almost everything was straightforward thanks to your wiring diagram at 4:30 but I had a problem with my extruder going backward. The first option would have been to wire the stepper motor differently but I found out that too many ppl fried their board so I choose option too : compile marlin. I followed this video but I had a few adjustments to make : even if I selected the Ender 5 default configuration a lot of parameters were wrong for me : - The home location was not correct => Auto home goes the wrong way for X and Y - The extruder was going backward - The Z axis steps / mm was 400 instead of 800 for my printer => The result of this looks like over extrusion (of course it's going down only half of what you want) Now I'm finally able to print again, the stepper motors are so silent now, It's just crazy. I think I have one problem left with the fans. The hot end fan is always on but the board fan is enabled only during a print. I think it should be the opposite but I don't know how to change that yet.
I am having a hell of a time with this on my ender 5. my x and y are going the wrong way and I keep getting homing failed. Im trying to compile this in vs code as he states but I dont have a button to tick to build it. Help please.
@@justintrombley3192 I had the same problem with Visual Studio Code (I found the solution in another vidéo). You have to install the following plugins to be able to compile directly from VS Code : "PlatformIO IDE" & "Auto Build Marlin".
@Seán White ive just tryed this it works to a dregee with one massive failing at the end of a print it homes to the wrong side crashing into the frame on the ender 5 pro.. and the location of the print is not in the center after using the above lines i had better outcome from changing //#define use_xmin_plug //#define use_ymin_plug #define use_zmin_plug #define use_xmax_plug #define use_ymax_plug //#define use_zmax_plug to #define use_xmin_plug #define use_ymin_plug #define use_zmin_plug //#define use_xmax_plug //#define use_ymax_plug //#define use_zmax_plug but i did have to alter the probe offset for the bltouch to +40_+10 from -40_-10 to stop the end of the probe running off the bed
This fixed my issue with the new version of Octoprint by updating the firmware to Merlin instead of using Creality's OEM firmware on my Ender 3 V2. Octoprint would get a "kill" command from the printer, kicking it off Octoprint. Upgrading to the latest version of Marlin fixed the issue meaning I can test filament changes during mid print! Thank you so much!
On a mac, I couldn't find the .pio folder at 10:03 anywhere... Then I remembered that folders that start with a "." are hidden. Open a finder window, and hit, "Command+Shift+. " "Command+Shift+Period" to show hidden folders.
Hi..could you make a tutorial on how to add Z offset tools & AUX leveling into the firmware? Ender 3 V2 firmware from Smith3D has these features but they didn't share the source file for the firmware
It is confusing, the guy in this video has the wiring the opposite way. th-cam.com/video/NDe6QXreBNs/w-d-xo.html, I am now scared of turning on my machine
@@tallionsnow8210 Yes, configuration.h references "babystepping", but I actually had to do the uncommenting for that step in the configuration_adv.h file.
It was really a pain in the butt to install the BLtouch clone that I bought. Thankfully your video was very useful to solve the issues I´ve got. The only thing that I would like to add is that the thingiverse adapter did now work well on my Ender 3 with a 4.2.2 board. I had to use my dremel to open a hole in order to the m3 screw of the hotend fan cage could fit, and also needed to use a spacer for the 3D touch. But I should say that another adapter that I found on thingiverse did not even worked. So, one more, thank you very much Michael!
Thanks Michael, could you also cover the CR-10, CR-10s and Pro, you mentioned it earlier, but then concentrated on Enders, please don't leave us CR-10 owner out, Thanks
Brilliant just brilliant well done i just wasted two days trying to my BLtouch working on my e3v2 and you have nailed it thank you so much and your firmware worked first time unlike every other i have tried brill keep up the good work :-)
NB do not set "#define SERIAL_PORT_2 3" if using bugfix or versions newer that 2.0.7.2 (when released) Newer marlin uses LCD_SERIAl_PORT and is automatically set to port 3 for this board and display.
@@Dust599 Thanks peter, i tossed a hailmary and uncommented that out and worked. Glad i checked here to validate. i've gone back to this verision of marlin after TM3D and BLT needs some work. Two new build plates later, i tucked my tail and went back to this firmware.
Bought two ender 3's last week, one for grandkids Christmas present and one for me. Opened them today and both had 1.1.4 boards in them. Oh, well the kids can get along fine with that and I will eventual upgrade to the BTT board and screen.
SKR mini v2 has tmc2209 in UART and this has tmc2208 in standalone. You can do linear acceleration and senorless homing with skr mini V2. The ender 3 4.2.2 board doesn't support those as the tmc2208 is in standalone (unless someone finds a way to solder a few wires and make it in uart which I haven't seen yet). Michael has explained this in his tuning linear acceleration video.
Thank you for this information...Awesome! One thing I noticed with this upgrade, is that the stepper motors now have a little thump when powering on the machine, as if the steppers now receive a lot more initial power. It only happens when the steppers are in the home position, move them off that and the thump is gone. The prints are awesome, no noise!!! I have the 4.2.7 board in the Ender 3 v1 - Original.
Don't have the answer but potentially by looking at the pins files for the two boards it should be possible, defining what was required in the BTT pins file and then defining the Creality LCD as seen here.
@@TeachingTech I think it would be awesome if you made a guide for doing this that way ender3 V2 owners who want TMC drivers in UART configuration can retain the screen that came with the printer
Great tutorial ! One serious issue that can cause damage to your printer when using octoprint - don't set HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY to 50*60! this can cause the x axis to crash into the stop switch too fast, this was changed in the Ender 3 v1 config but not in the v2 config. this can work fine without octoprint, but if you use ocotprint use HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY to 20*60. Also, in the last build of Marlin the Z-offset not updating during print. All and all great explanation!
Good advice. Using 50x60 may not actually damage the switch for a long time but it may quickly knock things out of alignment, especially if you don't have a solid BL Touch mount. I do think 20x60 is too conservative. I've found 30x60 to still be more than safe and even a bit higher is probably not an issue if someone is really wants to speed it up.
@@oupat524 You only need to comment Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN, which is by default uncommentet. Now Marlin uses the BL-Touch-Port for the Probe. Then you need to uncomment USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING. Otherwise it wont Auto-Home with the BL-Touch and will crash into the Plate :)
The skr was a nightmare for me. The documentation was bad and the firmware wouldn't load. Support just stopped responding and I had to get my cc company to claw the money back.
Thank you so much! All the other channels just say to go to creality's website and don't show how to actually configure it in Marlin. Other channels also didn't show the actual wiring diagrams. Teaching Tech is one of the best channels for beginners like me
if you order on amazon 0.5 comes attached and then you attach the 1m cable to the 0.5m cable and cut the end off of the other end of the cable to put.... nvm just get the 2m cable.
The precious information you supply, is why I subscribed to your channel. I recently purchased the CR-Touch from Creality, and will try the Marlin BLTouch firmware that I have just downloaded. BTW, insanely valuable is an understatement.
That is correct. I did my first firmware compile with it. After downloading and installing it, you need something else not shown that he is using to be able to build it. marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html
Best upgrade for an ender 3v2, particulary if you use octoprint, a runout sensor or want to slicer programmed filament changes is an old style screen and they're really cheap. Thanks for confirming I could do this.
I went through the code changes but could not find the "Build Tick Mark" at 9:44. For anyone else having this issue you need to install NET Core 3.1 SDK
HEADS UP: The pinout for the runout sensor is BACKWARDS. The middle most pin is indeed ground - but the leftmost pin (closest to the screw terminals) is signal, and the right most is 3V3. This is easy to test. If you use female-to-male dupoint jumper extensions or other appropriate wire, it can easily seen that connecting the right most pin to the middle pin (confirmed to be ground) RESTARTS THE PRINTER. Connecting the left most pin to the middle pin toggles the state of the switch. This is important because if you're using a different kind of switch and want to wire it correctly / with only two wires, using the included diagram is absolutely useless since it's labeled incorrectly. The correct pinout is [signal, ground, 3v3] in that order!
Just leave the probe margins in a comment (The green colour) and do a 4x4 grid instead of a 3x3 grid. worked for me. the issue was a 3x3 grid with no margins didn't get enough coverage so i changes it to 4x4 and the coverage is very good
Thank you for helping me get my first firmware update finished! your step-by-step guide helped me find what i was doing wrong ( was copying config files to wrong Marlin folder). i was hoping the fw would fix 2 issues. it fixed one, but not the other. updating the firmware fixed octoprint error message about firmware being broken, but it didnt fix problem with print speed settings in slicer- the printer ignores the print speed settings from the slicer and prints at the default 100mm/s. i have to go in the tune menu and manually adj the speed
Am i the only one that doesnt have a fucking clue whats going on when he starts talking about code? I can build stuff but im clueless when it comes to that stuff. where do you even find those files and what does uncomment mean?
LOL. I'm almost as clueless, although I can tell you that uncomment means removing the hashtag in front of the line of code, that makes it a readable command line
After firmware update with newest Marlin I dont even have unfortunately the bad level option. I used i wiring diagram from the video, that means 3 pins to the new port and 2 pins to Z port.
Great video! The firmware that came loaded on my 4.2.7 board didn't work in my Ender 3 (no movement from motors). This process helped me get it up and running again.
@@TeachingTech I get this error and the case is correct ============================================================= [FAILED] Took 12.99 seconds ============================================================= Environment Status Duration ---------------------- -------- ------------ STM32F103RET6_creality FAILED 00:00:12.992 ======================================================== 1 failed, 0 succeeded in 00:00:12.992 ========================================================
Thanks so much for the tutorial and the firmware! I've been chasing my tail with BLTouch issues for the last few weeks, you've really gotten me out of a jam!
Maartje van Caspel it seems to be decent so far! I have noticed there’s a little less options as I’m sure they were in a rush to get this out. Other than that, it’s running smoothly on the simple prints that I’ve done so far
This is an excellent guide. Having no real experience at all with CS-Code it did not take me too long to get everything to compile and to upgrade the firmware of my Ender 3 v2. Next step is to install my BL-Touch but first of all it is Friday afternoon and it is beer-o-clock so let me first enjoy a beer or two before installing the BL-Touch ;-)
So I was doing this for my Ender 3 (non pro) and it came with a V4.2.2 board and I had installed the TH3D firmware fine and it was working no problems. I then attempted to install my BL Touch using your video and doing what it showed on the video and the board began to smoke. So I guess I need to buy a new motherboard now.
Another excellent, full resource video. Thank you! (TH-cam's mid-video ad policy is REALLY irritating, particularly in the middle of technical procedures. Not your fault. TH-cam is using it as a brutal incentive to pay for their service. Please consider duplicating your content somewhere else. I have no connection with any other service. I only wish you best rsults from your hard work. Regards.)
THANK YOU!!! I've been trying to compile marlin for my ender 3 that shipped with a 32 but board, but couldn't figure it out. Just compiled following your guide and going to flash it NOW
GLUED IN Ender 3 V2 Z-limit Connector & Excessive extrusion during ABL fix: I have a Ender 3V2 I got in Nov 2020. The z-axis connector is glued in. I didn't want to mess with that so I used the "alternate" wiring where all wires go where the brown, red yellow of the BLTouch go. Then my prints wouldn't start. I realised you need to comment out the ""#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN"" and uncomment "#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING" and then it all worked. Lastly, I noticed I had excessive extrusion as the bed and hotend heat up before the ABL. To fix this, I changed the start GCode in Cura to: (1) Heat up bed to set temp, (2) home, (3), ABL (4) heat up bed and (5) heat up hotend. This solved my problem. See this thread for discussion: community.ultimaker.com/topic/26391-start-heating-bed-and-extruder-and-level-bed-at-the-same-time/ and here is my Cura Gcode (use at own risk :)) - the curly brackets are to ensure it uses the Cura settings: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset extruder M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating bed to what is set in Cura AND wait before bed levelling M290 P0 S160 ; BLtouch alarm release G4 P100 ; delay for BLtouch G28 ; Home G29 ; ABL M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating bed to what is set in Cura AND wait M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start heating hotend to what is set in Cura and WAIT G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder FROM HERE the normal Cura code (i.e., just replace your first G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes lines with what I have above. Lastly, I'm not sure I needed the M290 P0 S160 and G4 P100 codes (but they were in the thread and my prints are printing so I kept it). I'm using the BLT v3.1
Not sure if anyone else ran into an issue with the wiring of the filament runout sensor, but I am re-using the z-axis limit switch for this purpose and I did. The Signal wire/pin on the 4.2.2 board is the one closest to the green plug/connector. The Voltage is the one closest to the white X-limit switch connector. My pins were the reverse of what was shown in this video.
Make sure you swap the red and blue wires on the BLtouch plug, as it comes prewired the wrong way, Creality's fix is to supply a little adaptor board, buts it better make sure you plug matches the one displayed at 15:10 there is no brown wire, its yellow, red and blue, if you get it wrong, the magic smoke will be released from the mainboard and you will not be able to get the smoke back in, so its a new mainboard you will need!
@ Teaching Tech, There is one correction needed the Motherboard picture you have shown for the Filament run-out sensor pins Labels are incorrect ( Correct is Power Red (5V+) is on Right side towards X-Axis limit, Black (Gnd -) is in middle. Signal (s) towards Nozzle wire. In short in your picture swap red with white wire.) I have checked my ender 3v2 version 4.2.2 mobo. From Left, 1stpin is Signal 2nd pin is ground 3rd pin is For Voltage. Thanks
For anyone struggling with a 4.2.7 board and using the 5 pin BLTOUCH connecter: I followed the video, and after uploading, my Z axis would only go up during auto home. The solution was to COMMENT OUT //#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN and UNCOMMENT #define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default. Michael, your videos are the BEST.
I tried both ways and my ender 5 pro with 4.2.2 motherboard still won't homing 😟The bed just go down but never go up even if I try it manualy from display. Any idea what I'm doing wrong ? I use Creality BLTouch vith 5 pin conector
UPDATE: This seems to be working for people with the 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards.
When adding a BLtouch, please actually use the provided wiring diagram! Too many comments here about just plugging it in and frying boards. The (colour coded) diagrams I provide are to avoid this from happening so please use them.
Two corrections:
1. When specifying the environment in platformio.ini, I should have had a capital F in my graphic: STM32F103RET6_creality
2. The CR-6 SE has a different board. Thanks to Sebastiaan Dammann for the following information:
"The CR-6 board is supposed to have TMC2209 drivers and not TMC2225.
The TMC2209 drivers were a Kickstarter stretch goal - which has been reached. You can see a picture of the TMC2209 driver here: facebook.com/groups/cr6community/permalink/907195406473518/?comment_id=907405066452552&reply_comment_id=907736776419381
II don't know how these drivers are connected though (UART or standalone).
Also, the board version is v4.5.2 - not v4.2.7. Check this: facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10157803199746200&set=g.839170129942713
Since there have been multiple cases of the stepper driver in the top right of that picture - for the extruder I guess - burning out, it may be possible a new revision of the board is being developed.
The CR-6 board also has an extra stepper driver because it has two Z-axis lead screws."
Why don't you replace 'X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2208_STANDALONE' and others with A4988 for non-silent v4.2.2 boards?
They are 4 pins underneath for G-DIR-STEP-EN so I think that is the legacy mode... Is it?
Do you need to re-align the wires on the bltouch side as well, or just on the motherboard side? I reset the wires on the motherboard side and the bl touch responds (test probes, and will blink if it's too close to the bed) when I turn the printer on (installed the 4.27 custom firmware you provided) but it doesn't probe on command and can't be controlled from the settings
Will this wire work instead of the 3+2 Connectors that come with the BLTOUCH?
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B083GQHG5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@Teaching Tech -- please respond to the questions in this thread. Thanks in advance.
Thank you for being the only place on the internet that actually goes through this step by step without leaving important stuff out. I appreciate you.
A note: Recently, I tried using the environment variable STM32F103RET6_creality, however this has failed when building in VSCode. The reason is because Marlin has changed it to STM32F103RE_creality. Use STM32F103RE_creality for newer versions of Marlin. Also, if you get an error about FAN_SOFT_PWM, make sure to go into the config file and uncomment FAN_SOFT_PWM line
Thank you sooo much! I spent the last 6 hours pulling my hair out trying to figure this out.
thanks mate!
Yeah well....not a VS CODE guy...I can't even build the damn project.
My hero
you rock
Heads up: at 8:15, the call out on the right side of the frame is capitalized differently than the actual code on the left side of the frame. "STM32F103RET6_creality" as shown on the left is correct. The project will not compile if you use STM32f103RET6_creality as shown on the right.
Thank you! This was preventing me from building the firmware.
Spoke too soon, now I get:
Environment Status Duration
---------------------- -------- ------------
STM32F103RET6_creality FAILED 00:00:00.669
Thanks for that. 2 hours of searching and a lowercase f was the cause. Just like working on my own code
god sake...Thanks mate !
you beautiful soul!
works mega, just a few things that took me a while to understand for any one following along:
-you have to download platformIO IDE for vs code
-when he says open the marlin file in vs code he means the entire unzipped file not the marlin folder inside(learnt that the hard way)
mega video works a treat thank you
This video was insanely valuable to me! You really helped me out of a jam with being stuck on updating my firmware. I thought I bricked my brand new silent board, but this video gave me the exact information I needed. Thank you!
Just want to say a big thank you, I installed new firmware weeks ago and the BLtouch stopped probing, the nozzle crashed in to the bed and after watching your video....I have managed to sort everything back to being able to print normally.
I am new to 3D printing and learning a lot from the experts like yourself.
many many thanks
A quick reminder for those who purchased the Creality BLtouch kit:
The cable provided by the kit does not work with Ender 3 V2 because they change the GND and VCC orientation.
I did not realize this when I tried to install it and I fried my mainboard.
A quick fix: you can swap the blue (GND) and red (VCC) cable by using a tweezer.
Use the tip of the tweezer to pull up the black plastic behind each cable and swap them.
I tested mine, everything works now.
Yep, same. Works now.
same here, but I read this comment after I fried my mainboard :(
Also fried mine, yaaaay!
my board smoked up but i shut it off immediately and swapped the wires after reading this and it didnt smoke when i turned it back on... am going to test under close observation and see if boards actually fried or not. Probably going to order a new one anyways
Sorry this happened. For next Time and others that may trad this, Creality has a video out showing the pins being reversed when using their kit on a e3v2 and swapping them Many older BL touch videos for the e3 and e3 pro, Michael may have covered this then, covered making sure the wire pins were in the correct order when using the pin 27 board. The Smith BL touch firmware download page has pictures showing different long wire extensions and what the pin order should be.
I do a lot of research before any wiring or accessory change/install. I’ve learned from my mistakes to make the time.
I did the whole kit upgrade from my ender 3 pro, the 4.2.7 board, new LCD display, BL Touch and filament runout sensor. It was my first time compiling Marlin firmware and I had to build the visual studio setup. I am very grateful for the video. It was well done but did leave me wondering how the heck to install the filament sensor other than just leaving it hanging in the air. Of course I took my printer apart before realizing I needed to print the BL touch mount. After putting it back together with the new board to print the mount, I realized there is likely a mount for the sensor. My biggest challenges were needing to make the end for the z axis plug in from the parts in the BL touch kit at the extension cable had a three prong plug, not a two prong plug. And, my other challenge was not listening with Michael said that the Z offset setting that worked for him was 2.something. I was moving it .10 to .30 and I could not see it move at all. I assumed I had done something wrong, but after going over it all again and again, I finally found a post were someone pointed out that the adjustment is very fine and you would really need to get after it to see it move. I did notice that the Z offset control does move the head just by turning the dial, you do not need to click. Perhaps this is a firmware change since Michael's post. All in, this took my the better part of my Sunday, but I am thrilled to have it working and appreciate the great video. Thanks!
I did the same upgrade kit. Total beginner and having a hard time figuring out the coding
I added a 4.2.7 board to my stock Ender 3 and the noise reduction of the steppers was truly amazing. The hot end fan is the only thing I can hear when it's printing now.
As soon as you replace it it will be the part cooling fan ;D
Thanks for this amazing guide. Just wanted to mention, as of right now, uncommenting Serial Port 2 causes compiler errors, and the build fails. I have just set Serial Port 1, and left the 2nd commented out, and it worked flawlessly on my Ender 3 V2
thank you so much 😭
This guy has single handedly helped me upgrade my Ender 5, troubleshoot issues, and update firmware. Epic awesome stuff, Keep up the great work!
A big thank you for this tutorial on upgrading to a 32 bit board for the Ender 3. I just bought a Creality V4.2.7 32-bit board along with their touch screen LCD panel to install in my first generation Ender 3 that's getting a little functionally antiquated and was unsure of how to go about installing the firmware. In the past I had replaced my Ender's original 8-bit board with an SKR Mini E3 board which worked well but it failed after one month and BTT refused to honor their warranty for no particular reason so I reinstalled the original board to keep my Ender running vowing to never buy another BTT product again. Hopefully this new Creality board will last longer than a month and if it does fail, Creality will honor their warranty.
I just upgraded to SKR Mini 1.2 on all 4 of my enders. Love that board!
Did you try the SKR on an Ender 3 v2 with the DWIN color display?
Hey man thanks for going through the trouble of making this video. I bought a Creality Ender 5 Pro with the 4.2.2 silent board. I wanted to print carbon fiber ABS so I had decided to upgrade to a Micro Swiss Direct drive hot end, Bltouch, Big Tree Tech Smart Filament Sensor, Noctua fans with buck converters, Wham Bam Double Wham Flexible Build System, and 120 volt heat bed with solid state relay system. Doing this all at once! The physical install of these systems was the easy part, the firmware has been a whole different story. I have spent a couple of weeks attempting and failing at compiling the Marlin Firmware to support all this. After watching your videos about these systems I was able to finally compile a firmware that facilitates all of these systems
Thank you for the great video! Really clear and useful, helped me install the 4.2.7 (while I ordered the 1.1.5.)
There were some things different than the video, but managed to get through them. I'll write them down, maybe it helps someone.
1. When copy&paste the files from configurations-folder to Marlin-folder, specific for the printer in use, the Ender 3 folder contained more folders than expected. The Examples>Creality>Ender3> has a CrealityV1 folder that contained the right files.
2. I had to install PlatformIO IDE 2.0.1 in VsCode. (also Build and Run 0.2.0 and C/C++) to get the 'build' button below in the blue bar.
3. When typing STM32F....etc... at the first VsCode edit, the letter 'f' is shown in lower case in the floating box. I did type the uppercase F, since that's what the printscreen showed.
4. After upgrading my Ender 3, all the motors went into the wrong direction. Nearly broke them. So my advise to others is to do manual movement of the XYZ first, by 1 step at the time, to see if the directions are correct. (Correct me if I'm wrong, but Positive numbers should go more Z-Up, Y-Back and X-Right.)
But via Configuration_h around line 1100, i could change the motor direction by reversing the true/false.
So all is fixed. Thank you!
Your guide was what I needed, however the bltouch probe does not work. Do you know how I get that to work? Thank you for what you posted there is no way I could have figured those things out without your help. I hope you can help me on this other part.
@@davidb.5046 Glad I could help. I've ordered a BLtouch and hopefully when received in a few weeks I can make it work. For now, I don't know about it. But I did find this post: www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/imogwp/427bltocuh_v31/
I saved this link for when my BLTouch arrived so I could have a better look. Good luck!
@@xPureL I used the info from Rrii's post about switching the blue and red pins and now it all works. Thank you for your help.
First of all thank you Michael!
I have the Ender 3 Pro and I have upgraded to the new motherboard v2.4.7, the trouble was when probing the bed, the BLtouch was probing outside of the bed surface.
It seams to me as a problem that other users my have as well so here is my fix.
In configuration.h
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -43, -5, 0 }
#define PROBING_MARGIN 15
You can play around with the PROBING_MARGIN values.
Happy printing everyone, kudos to Michael again !
Don't forget to install the auto build marlin extension too, it will help you a great deal.
Another update if you're using the latest bugfix releases, don't uncomment the //#define SERIAL_PORT_2 -1 line as this is now handled automatically. Otherwise errors pop up.
Also, my extension cable had a 3-pin connector for the Zstop, while the Zstop on my board only uses 2. I took the connector of of the old Z stop connector (pressing down and wiggeling on the metal inserts) and exchanged those.
thanks man, wasn't compiling until I found this and it succeded
thxxx i was stuck for a week about this
is there gonna be a problem if I leave this un commented?
Another update; when using Klipper, it's best not to use the Z endstop for the BLTouch. It might work with the mod for that I guess, but I just plugged the BLTouch into the sensor pins meant for it (making more sense as well).
Sir you have saved me twice this day
Thanks Michael!
I got E-3Pro v1.5 about 2 month ago and it had excellent printing quality out of box.
But I needed to print TPU parts for my main hobby (drones). Also manual bed levelling and stepper motors noise were irritating. So, first I installed some generic BlTouch clone, converted printer from Bowden to direct drive, and, finally, changed motherboard from Creality 4.2.2 to SKR MiniE3 v2.
On the way I learned how to install VB, how to compile and debug Marlin soft.
Thanks to yours videos (and I believe your videos are the best in this area) my way was far less bumpy than it could be.
The hardest was BlTouch install as there were no clear explanations how to wire it up on 4.2.2 board. I had to open/close motherboard compartment at least 20 times and was ready to through BlThouch to rubbish bin. You released this video right in time to save me:)
And thanks to another video of yours upgrade to SKR MiniE3 took only couple of hours and second compiled binary was fully working.
Keep safe (I hope you are not in VIC:( ) and all the best!
Creality should seriously hire you. If you wrote their user guides, it would be SO much easier to understand and follow!
I doubt they’d want to pay him enough. Surely he makes more from these videos than they’d pay him
Received my second Ender 3 Pro today. It came with the v4.2.2 board.
I have already ordered the v4.2.7 board.
Got the second E3P to upsize to the ender extender kit 400x 400 by 250 standard height.
Just received confirmation the kit has shipped. Got it for $159.00 US with free postage to Australia.
Ernie from NSW
Can you do a firmware video for an Ender 3 pro with an extender and BLTouch using a 4.2.2 board.
Thanks for this, decided after 4 years it was time to upgrade my old ender 5 with the new 4.2.7 board. One thing to note, if you had TL smoothers with the old board, take them out. They actually have a detremental effect on prints and noise coming from the steppers. The new TMC drivers do not want TL smoothers it seems. Also, found TH3D new firmware worked great, while I had some issues with vanilla Marlin.
OK, I'd like to thank the living hell out of you. I spent time with your videos before really getting into the assembly and attempted first print so by the time I did the thing I just went for it. The print came out flawlessly and I can guarantee it was due to watching you and a couple of others. Patreon inbound.
Just to comment, Upgrade went as expected. I got BLTouch and Runout sensor connected and working. Screen now responds to the selection knob with no lag. I am very happy with the screen speed, Marlin 2.x upgrade and sensores. I now have printed around 30 prints without worrying about the bed level and all PLA prints have a perfect first layer. Thanks for this video!
Perfect tutorial for my e3 v2 for the bltouch.
I am new to 3d printing. I have ender3v2. I just upgraded my motherboard with v4.2.7 cuz the old one causes layer shifting. I tested the motherboard and it works fine but there was power outage and there is no resume function in this new motherboard. Can you please help?
Hello everyone. Please exercise extreme caution when installing a filament sensor by following the wiring diagram in the tutorial. Pin 1 and 3 are reversed on this picture, on the back of the board it is printed correctly. If you're installing the bigtreetech smart filament sensor as I have the wiring of that cable is completely correct! No need to try and flip the pins, in fact it can damage your printer from what I've read. So I needlessly changed mine up and then had to change back when I noticed it not working. Thank you for the video otherwise, it's been amazingly useful for me as a beginner!
Hi ! so wiring the dilament sensor like in this guide is wrong ? I wired mine like this and when the filament is switched the printer turns off the restarts... the central pin is right ? how to wire correctly ? thanks !
@@raresavram9071 the cable of the smart filament sensor if thats what you have is correct. If not the two outside pina are reversed on the board drawing in the video, center one is good
@@raresavram9071 if you have a creality board the pinout is printed on the back also
@@byzhiphop I will take the board out and read
@@byzhiphop ok so i connect them good now but sensor not working maybe I should the state to HIGH from LOW to invert logic
So if you add a bl touch you can make a fillament sensor out of the left over z axis sensor :)
... oh my god
Big brain mode.
gonna need all the information here lol
Just bought an Ender 5 pro yesterday. This step by step instruction on updating firmware was really helpful. Great job. Thank you.
HUGE MISTAKE at 8:15.
STM32F103RET6_creality is CASE SENSITIVE yet in the video you made a typo and wrote a small “f”, this needs to be a capital “F”.
Took me a while to figure out what was wrong..
Other than that great video, thanks for the information.
thankyou for calming my headache, couldnt find any other people with this problem
Thank you for the video.
Just a remark:
On the screenshot, we can see : default_envs = STM32F103RET6_creality (note the uppercase "F").
But on the text on the right, there is default_envs = STM32f103RET6_creality (note the lowercase "f").
You said that it is case sensitive.
The correct one is with the uppercase "F".
Thank you for this. The first couple of times I tried to compile, it returned an error that the default environment was not recognized. Changing "f" to "F" did the trick. I didn't even notice the discrepancy in the video.
You have no idea how long I needed your comment for. What a goof he made in the video! Thank you!
@@mills4545 When you enter the default_envs value is vscode, there is a sort of autocompletion which suggest you a value. On some version of Marlin, I remarked it suggests STM32f10.. (with the lowercase f). So I suppose this can be confusing.
Great video, I am testing my first compile now. Typo at 8:17, text in blue shows a lowercase "f"
Yup, that's where I got my only failure. Made it a capital F and it worked.
@@saltysteel3996 SAME lol. "Case sensitive" he says. Then proceeds to make a mistake on half of it XD
JK, great video!
We just received an Ender 3 Pro and it has the 8 bit board on it. Sept 18, 2020, bought from Amazon. Excellent video, thank you for posting. Contacting Creality to see if they might send a 32 bit board.
OMG... that is pain in the butt, why is it so hard to find the firmware compiled for each printer?
That’s what we get with open source. Git Hub. Once you get used to it though it can be amazing for so many things
Not sure if you have tried the Creality 4.2.7.
I have fitted this board to my Ender 3 Pro also have a complete set of 3DFUSED linear rails and double Z drive.
The v4.2.7 is so quiet when sitting at my desk within arms reach I have to check that the printer is operating when I don't hear the power supply fan running occasionally.
I have the Marlin Bug Fix installed on this board
In my opinion this is a great board.
I have a SKR V1.4 Turbo board to install in this printer but I will hold of for a while to see how this board performs.
PS FYI. I solved my previous problem. Daniel from Cross Link has a great video on how to center your nozzle on your bed. Check it out.
It is really great that different makers have different approaches as to what depth of tech they teach.
Really good for old newbies like me.
Keep up the good work and in depth reviews of new products.
Regards Ernie from Tuena NSW Australia
Holy crap! this is just what i needed, even the filament runout sensor, you're the best!
@TeachingTech I found the diagram at imgur.com/a/8aZ0q7h to be incorrect as I described here: forums.creality3dofficial.com/community/ender-3-series/ender-3-v2-add-runout-filament-sensor/#post-1247
@@0ldDud3 my printer was shut down also and restarted. which is a correct install of the wirings ? V+ right and Signal left ?
@@raresavram9071 Yes, and ground in the middle.
Just added the filament runout sensor to my Ender 3 pro as well and it makes me purge the filament every single print, is that by design? Not sure if there is a setting I need to tweak.
@@jlimpa4070 I am a little late, but double check the open and closed state. You might need to reverse the sensor setting.
Another respons to this video, this time about the BLTouch for other viewers:
I've installed bltouch as shown in the video. Then, when adjusting the bltouch height, I found out that the height has to be as followed:
when the bltouch 'feeling point' is extended, it has to be lower than the nozzle, of course. But when retracted (that's what happens after a 'touch') it must be higher than the nozzle.
An easy was is to start bltouch bed leveling, let it touch the plate our your hand, when the pin is retracted inside, turn off the printer. Then lower with the z-axis the nozzle to the bed, then adjust the bltouch height so it's 2-3mm above the bed.
Then do your first bltouch bed level and let it complete.
Adjust the z-probe when printing a flat wide object. In the video he says " minus 2.26 pretty ideal". But on my Ender3, older screen, I get the numbers 00.000 and then have to adjust. So I went adjusting to -01.000. Thinking this would be 1mm or 1cm. Next thing happend: I completely crushed my bltouch and nozzle into the plate. Broke it and probable made heavy damage on the z-motor! Luckily I could DIY the BLtouch and fix it, so works again. But not great!
And therefor IMPORTANT: when you see your z-probe offset starting with 00.000, try to set it on 00.010 first, or maybe even 00.001. In my case, the 00.010 means 10mm. So I've got my Ender3 set on 00.016 for a good hight.
Also, when printing and tuning the z-probe offset, the effect is inmediate while you set a number, so you don't have to press 'enter' to see the result. Just keep turning until the print is as you want it to be.
For me, a 1 meter cable seemed to be perfect.
Hi!
I followed your instructions and managed to compile my own.
Then realised you did a version that I was able to download.. so did that.
Thanks for your help and walk through. Much appreciated!
Comparing this to the BigTechTree's SKR E3 Mini V2, which one of these two boards are better?
Better in terms of a few things;
1: Ease of Setup and configuration
2: Functionality (including sound reduction)
3: Other relative pros and cons of each
What similarities do they share as well?
Thank you for your time =D
YES! I also would like to know as the MOSFET in my V2 board is not working or fried. Any thoughts on one vs the other?
Just got my new 4.2.7 board and thanks to your explanations ... setup was straightforward.
Thanks a lot
I did the update process as you do, my printer begins to auto home but in z axis it only goes up and does not move anymore
I have same problem, did you solve it
Thanks for this video, it helped me a lot. I just upgraded my Ender 5 to board 4.2.7 and it wasn't as easy as I wished. I tried without modifying the firmware because the board 4.2.7 was supposed to come with the right firmware for my Ender 5 (It was a non modified Ender 5). Almost everything was straightforward thanks to your wiring diagram at 4:30 but I had a problem with my extruder going backward. The first option would have been to wire the stepper motor differently but I found out that too many ppl fried their board so I choose option too : compile marlin. I followed this video but I had a few adjustments to make : even if I selected the Ender 5 default configuration a lot of parameters were wrong for me :
- The home location was not correct => Auto home goes the wrong way for X and Y
- The extruder was going backward
- The Z axis steps / mm was 400 instead of 800 for my printer => The result of this looks like over extrusion (of course it's going down only half of what you want)
Now I'm finally able to print again, the stepper motors are so silent now, It's just crazy. I think I have one problem left with the fans. The hot end fan is always on but the board fan is enabled only during a print. I think it should be the opposite but I don't know how to change that yet.
I am having a hell of a time with this on my ender 5. my x and y are going the wrong way and I keep getting homing failed. Im trying to compile this in vs code as he states but I dont have a button to tick to build it. Help please.
@@justintrombley3192 I had the same problem with Visual Studio Code (I found the solution in another vidéo). You have to install the following plugins to be able to compile directly from VS Code : "PlatformIO IDE" & "Auto Build Marlin".
@@justintrombley3192 If you need help with Marlin & configuration for your Ender 5 I can share my fork on github.
@Seán White ive just tryed this it works to a dregee with one massive failing
at the end of a print it homes to the wrong side crashing into the frame on the ender 5 pro..
and the location of the print is not in the center after using the above lines
i had better outcome from changing
//#define use_xmin_plug
//#define use_ymin_plug
#define use_zmin_plug
#define use_xmax_plug
#define use_ymax_plug
//#define use_zmax_plug
to
#define use_xmin_plug
#define use_ymin_plug
#define use_zmin_plug
//#define use_xmax_plug
//#define use_ymax_plug
//#define use_zmax_plug
but i did have to alter the probe offset for the bltouch to +40_+10 from -40_-10 to stop the end of the probe running off the bed
You just “chopped” that 8-bit board. Nice!
This fixed my issue with the new version of Octoprint by updating the firmware to Merlin instead of using Creality's OEM firmware on my Ender 3 V2. Octoprint would get a "kill" command from the printer, kicking it off Octoprint. Upgrading to the latest version of Marlin fixed the issue meaning I can test filament changes during mid print! Thank you so much!
do you have the bltouch
@@ridiculouslilman No BL Touch no
On a mac, I couldn't find the .pio folder at 10:03 anywhere... Then I remembered that folders that start with a "." are hidden. Open a finder window, and hit, "Command+Shift+. " "Command+Shift+Period" to show hidden folders.
any luck? Id just like to use my damn printer haha
No. I never found it.
Thank you so much. I have been stuck hour hours on updating my new board and your suggestion of using the bug fix branch solved my issues!
Hi..could you make a tutorial on how to add Z offset tools & AUX leveling into the firmware? Ender 3 V2 firmware from Smith3D has these features but they didn't share the source file for the firmware
Your video made me realize my Ender 3 v2 also had bad factory Vref setup for the extruder causing overheating and filament damages. Thank you!
Can you explain i want to check mine as well
I wired everything the same way you did and updated the firmware as you did, but my BLTouch will not deploy the pin at all. Any advice?
same here. You found the solution
It is confusing, the guy in this video has the wiring the opposite way. th-cam.com/video/NDe6QXreBNs/w-d-xo.html, I am now scared of turning on my machine
Great video !!!. I began by updating my Ender 3 Pro 4.2.2, adding BLTouch, then converted it to anopen sourced
For Babystepping it looks like the configuration has moved from configuration.h to configuration_adv.h.
No, there is a file there that has configuration.h
@@tallionsnow8210 Yes, configuration.h references "babystepping", but I actually had to do the uncommenting for that step in the configuration_adv.h file.
Lifesaver, thank you!
I come back to this video weekly. Thank you for this!
Any chance on the CR-10 line info like you did here for Ender 3s?
It was really a pain in the butt to install the BLtouch clone that I bought. Thankfully your video was very useful to solve the issues I´ve got. The only thing that I would like to add is that the thingiverse adapter did now work well on my Ender 3 with a 4.2.2 board. I had to use my dremel to open a hole in order to the m3 screw of the hotend fan cage could fit, and also needed to use a spacer for the 3D touch. But I should say that another adapter that I found on thingiverse did not even worked. So, one more, thank you very much Michael!
Thanks Michael, could you also cover the CR-10, CR-10s and Pro, you mentioned it earlier, but then concentrated on Enders, please don't leave us CR-10 owner out, Thanks
Brilliant just brilliant well done i just wasted two days trying to my BLtouch working on my e3v2 and you have nailed it thank you so much and your firmware worked first time unlike every other i have tried brill keep up the good work :-)
""LCD_SERIAL_PORT cannot be the same as SERIAL_PORT_2."" I followed everything verbatim, how do you fix this?
NB do not set "#define SERIAL_PORT_2 3" if using bugfix or versions newer that 2.0.7.2 (when released) Newer marlin uses LCD_SERIAl_PORT and is automatically set to port 3 for this board and display.
@@Dust599 Thanks peter, i tossed a hailmary and uncommented that out and worked. Glad i checked here to validate. i've gone back to this verision of marlin after TM3D and BLT needs some work. Two new build plates later, i tucked my tail and went back to this firmware.
@@Dust599 You Sir, are my hero for this....
just leave it commented (the // infront of SERIAL_PORT_2)
@@Dust599 This saved me, I was getting tons of errors and searching for something until I found this comment!
Bought two ender 3's last week, one for grandkids Christmas present and one for me. Opened them today and both had 1.1.4 boards in them. Oh, well the kids can get along fine with that and I will eventual upgrade to the BTT board and screen.
Same for me, unfortunatly..
@Teaching Tech, Would like to know how it compares to the SKR Mini E3 v2.
SKR mini v2 has tmc2209 in UART and this has tmc2208 in standalone. You can do linear acceleration and senorless homing with skr mini V2. The ender 3 4.2.2 board doesn't support those as the tmc2208 is in standalone (unless someone finds a way to solder a few wires and make it in uart which I haven't seen yet).
Michael has explained this in his tuning linear acceleration video.
Thank you for this information...Awesome!
One thing I noticed with this upgrade, is that the stepper motors now have a little thump when powering on the machine, as if the steppers now receive a lot more initial power. It only happens when the steppers are in the home position, move them off that and the thump is gone.
The prints are awesome, no noise!!!
I have the 4.2.7 board in the Ender 3 v1 - Original.
Question: Will the Creality Color LCD from the ender3 v2 work with a BTT SKR Mini E3 V1.2 board?
This is a good question
Don't have the answer but potentially by looking at the pins files for the two boards it should be possible, defining what was required in the BTT pins file and then defining the Creality LCD as seen here.
@@TeachingTech I think it would be awesome if you made a guide for doing this that way ender3 V2 owners who want TMC drivers in UART configuration can retain the screen that came with the printer
Great tutorial !
One serious issue that can cause damage to your printer when using octoprint - don't set HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY to 50*60! this can cause the x axis to crash into the stop switch too fast, this was changed in the Ender 3 v1 config but not in the v2 config. this can work fine without octoprint, but if you use ocotprint use HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY to 20*60.
Also, in the last build of Marlin the Z-offset not updating during print.
All and all great explanation!
Good advice. Using 50x60 may not actually damage the switch for a long time but it may quickly knock things out of alignment, especially if you don't have a solid BL Touch mount. I do think 20x60 is too conservative. I've found 30x60 to still be more than safe and even a bit higher is probably not an issue if someone is really wants to speed it up.
I have noticed that you plugged the BLTouch into the Z-Axis slot instead of where the Marlin website states, is there a reason you do this?
Functionally identical, but needs two less lines of firmware tweaking so I prefer it for my video as it's easier to follow.
@@TeachingTech Can you please tell which are those two lines to modify ? By the way thanks for this video it helped me a lot.
Hello I am alps very interested to know which those two lines of code are as I intent using the dedicated port as intended to
@@oupat524 You only need to comment Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN, which is by default uncommentet. Now Marlin uses the BL-Touch-Port for the Probe. Then you need to uncomment USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING. Otherwise it wont Auto-Home with the BL-Touch and will crash into the Plate :)
@@XuDaBit I have done what you said but this time it stops after homing X and Y. It says "STOPPED" when homing Z. What should I do ?
Many thanks for the detailed descriptions. I couldn't install the 3+2 pin version without this. 😍
also being honest which board would you fit? (Creality 4.2.7 v BTT SKR MINI E3 V2.0)
I'm loving the Creality board so far.
The skr was a nightmare for me. The documentation was bad and the firmware wouldn't load. Support just stopped responding and I had to get my cc company to claw the money back.
Thank you so much! All the other channels just say to go to creality's website and don't show how to actually configure it in Marlin. Other channels also didn't show the actual wiring diagrams. Teaching Tech is one of the best channels for beginners like me
Would be cool to understand where you got that 1.5m extension cable from lol..
if you order on amazon 0.5 comes attached and then you attach the 1m cable to the 0.5m cable and cut the end off of the other end of the cable to put.... nvm just get the 2m cable.
The precious information you supply, is why I subscribed to your channel. I recently purchased the CR-Touch from Creality, and will try the Marlin BLTouch firmware that I have just downloaded. BTW, insanely valuable is an understatement.
"VS Code" as in Visual Studio Code? Seems like it's that but just wanted to make sure.
That is correct. I did my first firmware compile with it. After downloading and installing it, you need something else not shown that he is using to be able to build it. marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html
The autobuild marlin plugin for vs code also helps
@@davidcarroll3710 Thank you for this!
@@davidcarroll3710 Thanks a lot! Went off on a Google search to try figure this out before thinking it was worth checking the comments.
Best upgrade for an ender 3v2, particulary if you use octoprint, a runout sensor or want to slicer programmed filament changes is an old style screen and they're really cheap. Thanks for confirming I could do this.
I went through the code changes but could not find the "Build Tick Mark" at 9:44. For anyone else having this issue you need to install NET Core 3.1 SDK
Thanks for posting this. I've never needed to do it, but others might and this is helpful.
How do you download it
HEADS UP: The pinout for the runout sensor is BACKWARDS. The middle most pin is indeed ground - but the leftmost pin (closest to the screw terminals) is signal, and the right most is 3V3.
This is easy to test. If you use female-to-male dupoint jumper extensions or other appropriate wire, it can easily seen that connecting the right most pin to the middle pin (confirmed to be ground) RESTARTS THE PRINTER. Connecting the left most pin to the middle pin toggles the state of the switch.
This is important because if you're using a different kind of switch and want to wire it correctly / with only two wires, using the included diagram is absolutely useless since it's labeled incorrectly.
The correct pinout is [signal, ground, 3v3] in that order!
Changing the Probe_Margin’s seems to throw an error when compiling the firmware.
any luck figuring this out? im getting the same
Just leave the probe margins in a comment (The green colour) and do a 4x4 grid instead of a 3x3 grid. worked for me. the issue was a 3x3 grid with no margins didn't get enough coverage so i changes it to 4x4 and the coverage is very good
Thank you for helping me get my first firmware update finished! your step-by-step guide helped me find what i was doing wrong
( was copying config files to wrong Marlin folder).
i was hoping the fw would fix 2 issues. it fixed one, but not the other.
updating the firmware fixed octoprint error message about firmware being broken,
but it didnt fix problem with print speed settings in slicer- the printer ignores the print speed settings from the slicer and prints at the default 100mm/s. i have to go in the tune menu and manually adj the speed
Am i the only one that doesnt have a fucking clue whats going on when he starts talking about code? I can build stuff but im clueless when it comes to that stuff. where do you even find those files and what does uncomment mean?
LOL. I'm almost as clueless, although I can tell you that uncomment means removing the hashtag in front of the line of code, that makes it a readable command line
@@minarotter6913 Not the hashtag, the "//" part. You need the pound sign.
Thanks for including the pin meanings. I had the bed and hotend heater and wondered why my bed wouldn't warm when I tried it
What if I use the BL reserved port instead of replacing the Z min
I have the same question.
Thats what Im wondering. My ASSUMPTION is that you comment out "Z Min Probe Uses Z Min Endstop Pin" and uncomment "Use Probe for Z Homing"
Wondering the same thing. I am unable to get the probe to deploy when homing
After firmware update with newest Marlin I dont even have unfortunately the bad level option. I used i wiring diagram from the video, that means 3 pins to the new port and 2 pins to Z port.
@@karlh.138 Same here...
Great video! The firmware that came loaded on my 4.2.7 board didn't work in my Ender 3 (no movement from motors). This process helped me get it up and running again.
Just bought my Ender 3 a week ago, and it had the old board in it :(
Same, I just installed the new 32 bit board with a BLtouch and it's amazing.
because you should have bought "ender 3 v2", not just "ender 3" nor "ender 3 pro"
Is the ender 3 v2 4.2.7 now?
@@joeboxter3635 i bought my ender 3 v2 1 week ago - and it came with 4.2.2
Awesome, this was really enlightening for a total noob like myself! 🌟
"This one is case sensitive" proceeds to put incorrect casing on screen as example
Here you go if you ran into this: STM32F103RET6_creality
Am I going crazy? This is the same as in the video.
@@danielwdunn He has is correct in his ide but he has a pop up that shows it with a lowercase f
Argh I'm sorry about that. I did double check but the only noticed the lower case 'f' reading this comment.
@@TeachingTech
I get this error and the case is correct
============================================================= [FAILED] Took 12.99 seconds =============================================================
Environment Status Duration
---------------------- -------- ------------
STM32F103RET6_creality FAILED 00:00:12.992
======================================================== 1 failed, 0 succeeded in 00:00:12.992 ========================================================
USER error, I had the configuration files in both the upper and lower directory. I corrected and it compiled fine.
Thank you for clearing up this information as I'm buying a stock ender 3 as a second printer.
Thanks so much for the tutorial and the firmware! I've been chasing my tail with BLTouch issues for the last few weeks, you've really gotten me out of a jam!
How did you do it?
It is also worth mentioning that TH3D has the experimental ender 3 v2 unified firmware package available. I just put it on my 4.2.2 board today
And how are you liking it? ☺️
Maartje van Caspel it seems to be decent so far! I have noticed there’s a little less options as I’m sure they were in a rush to get this out. Other than that, it’s running smoothly on the simple prints that I’ve done so far
I wish I had this guide a month ago when Creality sent me a v4.2.7 board when I ordered a v1.1.5 board. Thanks!
Fortunately the board took over a month to arrive into Australia (never thought I'd say that), otherwise I'd have pulled my hair out!
Thank you so much , One of the best people to explain and also the only one to get my bltouch running
This is an excellent guide. Having no real experience at all with CS-Code it did not take me too long to get everything to compile and to upgrade the firmware of my Ender 3 v2.
Next step is to install my BL-Touch but first of all it is Friday afternoon and it is beer-o-clock so let me first enjoy a beer or two before installing the BL-Touch ;-)
So I was doing this for my Ender 3 (non pro) and it came with a V4.2.2 board and I had installed the TH3D firmware fine and it was working no problems. I then attempted to install my BL Touch using your video and doing what it showed on the video and the board began to smoke. So I guess I need to buy a new motherboard now.
SAME!!!
Another excellent, full resource video. Thank you! (TH-cam's mid-video ad policy is REALLY irritating, particularly in the middle of technical procedures. Not your fault. TH-cam is using it as a brutal incentive to pay for their service. Please consider duplicating your content somewhere else. I have no connection with any other service. I only wish you best rsults from your hard work. Regards.)
THANK YOU!!! I've been trying to compile marlin for my ender 3 that shipped with a 32 but board, but couldn't figure it out. Just compiled following your guide and going to flash it NOW
Thank you sir. Best money I have spent in awhile. Now to learn how to use all the features of the slicer.
thanks a million! i was able to hook up a bltouch clone to my 4.2.7 board fairly quickly with this no nonsense guide.
please help, how did you make the bltouch options appear in marlin?
@@EagleFPV43 i just enabled all the stuff in this video and flashed the firmware. nothing special
GLUED IN Ender 3 V2 Z-limit Connector & Excessive extrusion during ABL fix:
I have a Ender 3V2 I got in Nov 2020. The z-axis connector is glued in. I didn't want to mess with that so I used the "alternate" wiring where all wires go where the brown, red yellow of the BLTouch go. Then my prints wouldn't start. I realised you need to comment out the ""#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN"" and uncomment "#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING" and then it all worked.
Lastly, I noticed I had excessive extrusion as the bed and hotend heat up before the ABL. To fix this, I changed the start GCode in Cura to: (1) Heat up bed to set temp, (2) home, (3), ABL (4) heat up bed and (5) heat up hotend. This solved my problem.
See this thread for discussion: community.ultimaker.com/topic/26391-start-heating-bed-and-extruder-and-level-bed-at-the-same-time/
and here is my Cura Gcode (use at own risk :)) - the curly brackets are to ensure it uses the Cura settings:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating bed to what is set in Cura AND wait before bed levelling
M290 P0 S160 ; BLtouch alarm release
G4 P100 ; delay for BLtouch
G28 ; Home
G29 ; ABL
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating bed to what is set in Cura AND wait
M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start heating hotend to what is set in Cura and WAIT
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
FROM HERE the normal Cura code (i.e., just replace your first G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
lines with what I have above.
Lastly, I'm not sure I needed the M290 P0 S160 and G4 P100 codes (but they were in the thread and my prints are printing so I kept it). I'm using the BLT v3.1
Not sure if anyone else ran into an issue with the wiring of the filament runout sensor, but I am re-using the z-axis limit switch for this purpose and I did. The Signal wire/pin on the 4.2.2 board is the one closest to the green plug/connector. The Voltage is the one closest to the white X-limit switch connector. My pins were the reverse of what was shown in this video.
Brilliant Michael, thank you for these tutorials they make things a hell of lot easier for an old bugga like me. Cheers
Make sure you swap the red and blue wires on the BLtouch plug, as it comes prewired the wrong way, Creality's fix is to supply a little adaptor board, buts it better make sure you plug matches the one displayed at 15:10 there is no brown wire, its yellow, red and blue, if you get it wrong, the magic smoke will be released from the mainboard and you will not be able to get the smoke back in, so its a new mainboard you will need!
@
Teaching Tech, There is one correction needed the Motherboard picture you have shown for the Filament run-out sensor pins Labels are incorrect ( Correct is Power Red (5V+) is on Right side towards X-Axis limit, Black (Gnd -) is in middle. Signal (s) towards Nozzle wire. In short in your picture swap red with white wire.) I have checked my ender 3v2 version 4.2.2 mobo. From Left, 1stpin is Signal 2nd pin is ground 3rd pin is For Voltage. Thanks
as always, to the point, well organized, and great way of pointing common mistakes!!!!