Dude lol, I find it hilarious how much you love the cetus. I find it pretty under engineered. It is basically ignoring many 3d printer advancements over the years. No self adhering heated bed. Non geared, unconstrained direct drive extruder that makes flexible almost impossible. No type of pressure advance. At least it has a rock solid motion platform with the rails and belt driven Z. It seems like a printer stuck in 2014. Still, I bet an enclosed coreXY printer using a e3d Hemera extruder, running a duet with Reprap firmware and pressure advance with a heated removable flexible pei sheet bed and hiwin rails would blow your mind. You could run prints at like 250mm/s with acceleration values of like 3000 with damned near perfect quality. You can literally lift the printer by the extruder with a geared dual drive system. If the filament could hold the weight that is. You should build one up to the standards of your sick CNC mill. Go crazy with it. Ball screws, Hiwin rails, heated enclosure with water cooling. I wanna see you print some engineering grade plastics like PEEK and PEI.
I was about to comment about how great the timelapse at the beginning looked, never saw any 3d printer timelapse that smooth! Great you explained it, awsome what you came up with
Top quality videos, interesting topics, good humour and regular uploads. I feel bad that you don't have more subscribers and views. Keep up the good work!
Oh I am very happy with a slow but steady growth and because I don't do advertising on other platforms, everyone who's here has found my stuff by himself which is cool.
I think PETG pretty much made ABS obsolete for most - but not all - use cases. It's sooo much easier to print than ABS (no enclosure needed, but you need a heated bed) and is super strong. Plus it can make a really detailed print when you have those settings tuned in so no vapor smoothing needed.
Afdhal Atiff Tan Amin Husaini Tan True, you can get super cheap ABS. On Amazon where I get most of my reels it's about the same cost (20-25 USD/Kg) for ABS/PLA/PETG from the lower cost ones I trust (eSun, Hatchbox, and MG Chemicals).
Well, in my experience, low cost ABS has cost me more than my PETG; in failed prints alone and time wasted :P But then again, I don't have an enclosure, so before I try doing ABS again, I will build an enclosure. Problem is that the material I want for the enclosure on my Delta, is either too expensive or the shipping is ass (channeled polycarbonate)! All easy to get acrylic/plexi etc, is too expensive... I just have to move first(Where I rent now, has become both too expensive and inconvenient), before I order the channeled polycarbonate and some other stuff, to justify the shipping a bit more :)
I built a wooden box around the cetus, but had to add also a 12V fan. The stored heat was messing up the z-axis and the belt started to slip above 50°C. I also printed the fan extension from thingiverse for 60mm fans, since the factory 40mm fan is with 38db a bit to noisy and you can buy 60mm fans for less than 5euros double your cfm and reduce the noise to 21db.
OctoPrint has a nice Timelapse feature, that only takes a snapshot when it detects a z change in the gcode. Does exactly what you want, makes beautifully smooth time lapses. Especially if you attach the camera to the heated bed.
Nice timelapse! I actually did something similar recently... by injecting gcode to take a snapshot every time the Z axis changes and move the hotend away to a fixed location before taking a snapshot.
Neat! I've been using OpenCV on a Pi Zero with a camera to catch my cat stealing food from my dog's bowl. Just gotta figure out what to have it do to get her to stop, maybe spray some water using an actuator or something.
Cool! Does the Pi Zero also have multiple CPU cores? I am definitely going to try to compile OpenCV for using multiple, and maybe even GPU, that would be so much more powerful ...
Oh cool, waiting for my 3D printer to arrive Tronxy X1), and I'm gonna use Octoprint with it, so ordered the Pi camera module as well. Already have an old Raspberry Pi doing nothing
No, the Pi Zero is 1 GHz single core. I think it might be able to handle the cat face Haar classifier, but just barely. I've got the Zero W (with wifi) and used Motion to turn it into a network camera- you can open an mjpeg stream as a VideoDevice in openCV just by passing in a URL. Right now I'm doing a standalone script, but I also use Home Assistant and they have support for openCV so I'm thinking I might use that if I go further.
Oh, Marco. In addition to providing some very informative videos, you're the only person who manages to make me bark with laughter at least twice in every one of them. And I won't even mention the sexy "Terminator" voice... Oh, wait...
@Marco Reps, are you still as happy with the Cetus printer? If it is accurate enough for a guy building 1 ppm voltmeters at home, it is good enough for me.
Marco Reps, great video, but with a heated build chamber, how does the electronics and motors deal with 60C/140F ambient temp? Control electronics can overheat at those temps.
I've never gotten vapor smoothing to work without some heating. The boiling point of acetone is ~50C so it doesn't take much. It only takes 30-60 minutes at most. Once you're happy with the result, let the part dry out for a while, it will have soaked in the acetone (which acts as a plasticizer so it might be temporarily flexible).
You don't need to boil the acetone. Even water evaporates without boiling, very slowly tho. You can use cold acetone method (at about 25ºC for an hour+), or hot acetone method (at about 50ºC for a couple minutes). The first is easier to control, but slow, which is good for beginners on post-processing. The later is recommended for more experienced users, and need to be done with a lot of caution (acetone is highly inflamable).
Looking at getting a cetus3d largely based on your reviews, but the software is holding me back. I want a slicer I can tinker with. Ive seen they added support for importing gcode from other slicers; but on their own forums all I see is misery in trying to get that to work. Is that sampling bias? Do you have any experience, say, importing gcode from cura?
I have a small question. When you print with PETG material, are you using 24VDC or the original 19VDC? Because the printing temperature required by PETG is too high, I am not sure if my V2 extrusion head can reach this temperature, using 19VDC. Thank you
If your getting good results with that build platform then more power to you! Expect curling edges on larger parts as you get close to the edge of the build platform and other problems due to how uneven it is, but if you don't print things that have those issues, then it's a solution that works well for you! I haven't seen a resistor based heated bed for years. Nowadays, even most of the the traditional PCB based bed heaters are considered uneven. :)
My guess is that your room temperature was too low, so the acetone would evaporate very slowly. Try the same process, but put the (very) closed jar on top of the heated bed, while it's heated at 50ºC. A few minutes should do the trick :)
I used your power resistor idea and it works great. Using a cheap RAMPS 1.4 board to control the power. Went cheap on the box though of 5mm thick wood planks:P You REALLY need the box if you want ABS, the warping is bad.
octoprint on a raspberry pi will control the printer through a browser interface and do timelapses with any usb camera, with the option for using changes in z height for the trigger.
Yeh, that seems like a great software and I'll try to use it one day, but the Cetus printers still have their proprietary controller that won't talk to Octoprint
well that's no fun. I'd be tempted to hook all of the mechanics up to an open controller like RAMPs or a smoothieboard. If you want a really nice machine, and are up for it, I can definitely recommend building a hypercube evolution. I put one together with a 750w heated bed on a cast aluminum precision plate, with a print area of 400x400x500mm, running on a azteeg x5 gt. It's a very capable printer.
You could have used something like a usb heating pad or a 12V 10-50W heating pad instead to make sure it's even spread. Or even a thermoelectric cooler as they would reach their own temp limit of 70.
I like elp cams. Ordered a 1080p h.264 to connect to the trinocular port on my microscope. c to m12 adapter for like 6 bucks, 15 buck trinoc tube to c adapter and 45 buck camera beats the hell out of the $200+ most places want for an entry level scope cam. i have 2 of their 720p hardware h.264 units and have always been pleased with the price to quality ratio
Very nice time lapse solution! Did you manage to get a true continuous single outline corkscrew (aka "vase mode") print out of your Cetus? Unfortunately their proprietary firmware seems to have problems with very small Z-Axis steps.
.2mm nozzle for small parts and fine details like 5:05 and .4mm nozzle for larger parts like 7:30 ... I got the impression that the "fine" and "normal" settings in the software make very little difference near the built platform, because there are almost no vibrations. But taller parts definitely benefit from the "fine" setting. I am usually setting the extruder temperature 10°C higher than the manufacturer recommends.
If the image comparison function does something like sum of square errors over the difference image, it would be sufficient to compare only the luma channel (Y) instead of all three channels (YUV or RGB). So, if there is an easy way to access the luma channels then you could save energy here.
Another implementation tries to simplify every frame before comparing it: lvelho.impa.br/ip15/demos/daniel-moura/hyperlapse.html But I wasn't sure if that would pay off at all. Do you think there's a chance I can get the Y channel directly from the camera?
I don't think you can read directly in other colorspaces, but this should be quite fast: yuv=cv2.cvtColor(frame,cv2.COLOR_BGR2YUV) y,u,v = cv2.split(yuv)
Marco Reps It depends on how the camera works. However, the H264 encoder will use YUV colorspace. So the color conversion is performed somewhere on the way to the video encoder. If you could just grab the Y channel from that hardware (before it reaches the encoder), you would get it "for free". Otherwise, it can still be faster to convert each RGB image into it's grayscale Y version. And then compare only Y images with eachother. ( .. unfortunatelly, i am not a Python expert .. for each pixel: Y = 0.299×Red + 0.587×Green + 0.114×Blue .. or similar numbers)
Marco Reps Now that i think about it, if you would use a black-and-white camera then every channel would be Y. But of course the video would be grayscale, too. Hmm, maybe you could use a second camera that produces a small grayscale image. That would be easy to process and sufficient to decide which frame of the "main camera" wins.
Not stupid at all! Heat makes many components age faster, so if possible it should be avoided. In this case it's only 40°C in the box and I'm sure the components will survive that until I convert the main board to all open source everything.
Thanks - I'm currently building a printer, and I'm having trouble to decide what type of build plate to use. A planed aluminium sheet seems a good idea, but will it hold up at 450x420mm ? And yes, I did not think you'd use the original to fry a PVC egg on it. It looked good though ...
Hm, almost half a meter by almost half a meter is pretty big. How are you going to mount that? 4 points in the corners would probably be very good, one point in the center might be a bit wobbly. You could reinforce it with an epoxied carbon fiber sheet, which would also be beneficial for heating
The plate is mounted to the rail of an MGN12 slider (upside-down) on both ends and in the center, the slide is at approximately 1/3 of the width of the plate, offset to the left. There will be a roller at the right edge to take excessive load - there's a build vlog on my channel if you are interested. I opted for a 6mm aluminium sheet now, until I can get some sandwich material that will have to do.
Nice! Can I ask what polycarbonate are you using? And did you need to change anything with the heater? I thought that PC needs a nozzle temperature of ~300C, and the Cetus can only get to ~260. Thanks :)
I haven't printed much at higher temperatures, so I can't promise anything, but I've heard that extruder temperatures of up to 300°C are ok and that is exactly where the software setting stops, too. My PC came from a German shop called Conrad, it's their own brand Renkforce and it printed perfectly at 270°C and about 70°C plate temperature.
Hi Marco, I always enjoy your humor in your videos. Which of the many available ELP cameras did you get? For instance the lense size? I see a 4mm lense available, but is that the best? There are fisheye and 180° view lenses available as well. Would you reveal the model number please? (drumroll)
Thanks! It is a model ELP-USBFHD06H serial, I think this is the same one as yours, ELP Sony IMX322 Sensor Mini Usb Camera Module HD 1080P (None distortion 100 degree) at Amazon US. $80. I think most of the models available have that same number on the PCB, but the lense configuration is a bit different for each one. This is the US Amazon link: www.amazon.com/ELP-IMX322-Sensor-Camera-distortion/dp/B06ZZW5HP5/ref=sr_1_10?s=movies-tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1516007308&sr=8-10&keywords=ELP%2BWebcam%2BFull%2BHD%2B1080p%2BH.264%2BUSB&th=1
It is possible for sure because the stock drivers use a normal step/direction interface. But setting up steps/mm, direction pin inverts, etc. is difficult because the controller is proprietary. I'll either leave it as is or make a full conversion to open source components at some point
Nice - I've also always wanted to build a temperature controlled enclosure, just with a simple temperature sensor and a fan to get the warm air out, if it gets too hot (the cold-end would not get sufficient cooling any more and the filament would start to flex). Though I've always told myself that I'd build a better 3D printer one day with linear rails instead of rods and all and then also build a nice enclosure. Now been doing that for half a year and still haven't built any of those things :P
Hey Marco. I'm thinking of buying this beauty myself too. I was wondering, the shipping is done by DHL from China. If course import rules are different in the Netherlands but just wondering how much you had to pay additionally on top of the shipping costs to get the thing cleared from the border, or how it's called. I cannot find any useful info on the DHL website unfortunately :( Love your video's btw... Binged about all of them already :D
A little more than a hundred eur for both the extended and the standard printer. And their value was declared correctly. I think import taxes into the EU should be universal, but customs might vary?
Hey Marco, i thought i hear you mention in one of your vids that you might convert your cetus 3d into a pcb milling device. On the off change that I did hear that correctly, did you do it? if so, are you satisfied with the results ?
No I didn't try that because the axes are spring loaded and the belts will stretch slightly too, when loaded mechanically. That will add non-negotiable error to all milled contours. Larger errors if you want to make board cutouts, smaller errors if you want to do isolation engraving with a tiny engraving bit and slow speeds. What could work without built-in errors is a drilling machine (when the Z-axis holding mechanism is removed)
Yea, i see what you mean, good points both, especially over time the error will grow. and would require constant adjustments, not ideal to say the least... Thanks for your answer, ill keep looking for a better solution.... ;)
Not at all when drilling it but when I stupidly used WD40 (with benzine) to lubricate thread cutters. Should've done that far away from the acrylic :-\ What did you use? Sharp metal drill bit at slow speed, and even slower when it's almost through. When you are using a drill press where you can't adjust RPM easily, you could try to use lubrication like soapy water or petroleum
Superb! Do you have any idea why the script you provided would throw this error? \_structural_similarity.py", line 85, in compare_ssim if not X.dtype == Y.dtype: AttributeError: 'NoneType' object has no attribute 'dtype' Thanks!
One of your input images is "none" instead of an image, you can debug that with namedWindow( "Display window", WINDOW_AUTOSIZE );// Create a window for display. imshow( "Display window", image ); // Show our image inside it.
You are passing 2 frames aka images to the ssim(frame, previous) compare function. Does it happen at the end, when the entire video has been processed already? Then it is normal, because the frame after the last frame is nonexistent. If it happens right away
Then you've got to find out why one of the frames is none. Try going through the video and display every frame in a window for example. Do you have ffmpeg installed and in the path variable? I think that was required for working with video files in OpenCV. Might even have to be compiled with ffmpeg support. Looks like you can avoid that with Anaconda (www.anaconda.com/download/) and just execute "conda install -c menpo opencv3 ffmpeg" but not sure!
I have one of each! There is literally no difference apart from the extended Z axis, so if you want to print taller parts, you need it, if not, you don't
okay, thanks. I would have expected a least a slightly worse print quality due to the higher mechanical elasticity of the z-axis for the extended version. Besides that, shipping to germany went fine? Is it really around 50 USD, did you order from china or uk stock?
I haven't printed anything at the highest possible Z coordinates yet, but near the build platform quality is equal as far as I can tell. Shipping with DHL Express went ok-ish, they kept it in their facility for a few days because they didn't believe the price on the invoice. Had to send a few emails and then it got through, had to pay a little more than 100€ in taxes and customs for both printers.
Good morning Marco. Great video as usual. Quick question: have you looked at potential bed warpage issues with that aluminum plate now that its heated? Reason I ask is that when you demonstrated the overheating of the PLA, you could really see the aluminum distort.
Good point, should've annotated that: The plate I tested overheating with was cut from 1mm thick sheet metal scrap using dull sheet metal scissors so it was bent to begin with. The original Cetus build plate has that special coating that I didn't want to destroy. It is much thicker and flat. It doesn't flex at normal print bed temperatures
Dude lol, I find it hilarious how much you love the cetus. I find it pretty under engineered. It is basically ignoring many 3d printer advancements over the years. No self adhering heated bed. Non geared, unconstrained direct drive extruder that makes flexible almost impossible. No type of pressure advance. At least it has a rock solid motion platform with the rails and belt driven Z. It seems like a printer stuck in 2014.
Still, I bet an enclosed coreXY printer using a e3d Hemera extruder, running a duet with Reprap firmware and pressure advance with a heated removable flexible pei sheet bed and hiwin rails would blow your mind. You could run prints at like 250mm/s with acceleration values of like 3000 with damned near perfect quality. You can literally lift the printer by the extruder with a geared dual drive system. If the filament could hold the weight that is.
You should build one up to the standards of your sick CNC mill. Go crazy with it. Ball screws, Hiwin rails, heated enclosure with water cooling. I wanna see you print some engineering grade plastics like PEEK and PEI.
I was about to comment about how great the timelapse at the beginning looked, never saw any 3d printer timelapse that smooth! Great you explained it, awsome what you came up with
Octoprint does the timelapse on z change with a plugin. Also lets you load/monitor prints wirelessly on your home wifi connection.
no snake thought, i will pass
Top quality videos, interesting topics, good humour and regular uploads. I feel bad that you don't have more subscribers and views. Keep up the good work!
Oh I am very happy with a slow but steady growth and because I don't do advertising on other platforms, everyone who's here has found my stuff by himself which is cool.
Qualitiy video as usual! Informative, funny, well edited. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I find the lack of Keithley test gear in this video disturbing. Very nice video btw.
I think PETG pretty much made ABS obsolete for most - but not all - use cases. It's sooo much easier to print than ABS (no enclosure needed, but you need a heated bed) and is super strong. Plus it can make a really detailed print when you have those settings tuned in so no vapor smoothing needed.
I have never seen a low-cost PETG. I got my ABS for £7/kg.
Afdhal Atiff Tan Amin Husaini Tan True, you can get super cheap ABS. On Amazon where I get most of my reels it's about the same cost (20-25 USD/Kg) for ABS/PLA/PETG from the lower cost ones I trust (eSun, Hatchbox, and MG Chemicals).
Afdhal Atiff Tan Amin Husaini Tan where ?
Well, in my experience, low cost ABS has cost me more than my PETG; in failed prints alone and time wasted :P
But then again, I don't have an enclosure, so before I try doing ABS again, I will build an enclosure. Problem is that the material I want for the enclosure on my Delta, is either too expensive or the shipping is ass (channeled polycarbonate)! All easy to get acrylic/plexi etc, is too expensive... I just have to move first(Where I rent now, has become both too expensive and inconvenient), before I order the channeled polycarbonate and some other stuff, to justify the shipping a bit more :)
I built a wooden box around the cetus, but had to add also a 12V fan. The stored heat was messing up the z-axis and the belt started to slip above 50°C. I also printed the fan extension from thingiverse for 60mm fans, since the factory 40mm fan is with 38db a bit to noisy and you can buy 60mm fans for less than 5euros double your cfm and reduce the noise to 21db.
surveillance snake is watching
This is now the Matrix started!!
Your videos are AMAZING, and they always make me think of "look around you" for some reason...
OctoPrint has a nice Timelapse feature, that only takes a snapshot when it detects a z change in the gcode. Does exactly what you want, makes beautifully smooth time lapses. Especially if you attach the camera to the heated bed.
i love your dry sense of humour Marco ! BTW pass on my best regards to surveillance snake, if he's watching.......
How do you not have millions of subscribers?? Best channel on TH-cam.
Nice timelapse! I actually did something similar recently... by injecting gcode to take a snapshot every time the Z axis changes and move the hotend away to a fixed location before taking a snapshot.
This seems to be the best solution
Unless the fixed location is directly in front of the camera.
Won't moving your print head that much between layers have some effect on your print quality?
+Ant yes and no, there are definitively some ways to mitigate the effects.
That would really slow down your prints. I think this opencv is a nice solution although, ...well this topic can get complicated.
Neat! I've been using OpenCV on a Pi Zero with a camera to catch my cat stealing food from my dog's bowl. Just gotta figure out what to have it do to get her to stop, maybe spray some water using an actuator or something.
Cool! Does the Pi Zero also have multiple CPU cores? I am definitely going to try to compile OpenCV for using multiple, and maybe even GPU, that would be so much more powerful ...
Oh cool, waiting for my 3D printer to arrive Tronxy X1), and I'm gonna use Octoprint with it, so ordered the Pi camera module as well. Already have an old Raspberry Pi doing nothing
Show her a picture of a cucumber...
No, the Pi Zero is 1 GHz single core. I think it might be able to handle the cat face Haar classifier, but just barely. I've got the Zero W (with wifi) and used Motion to turn it into a network camera- you can open an mjpeg stream as a VideoDevice in openCV just by passing in a URL. Right now I'm doing a standalone script, but I also use Home Assistant and they have support for openCV so I'm thinking I might use that if I go further.
With Marco Reps, I can learn something and watch comedy at the same time. Multitasking education.
I use an electric wok to vapour polish my parts. It works very well and has no open flames.
It's a joy to find a place like here, with such a good and informative technical content. Thanks.
Dude.... You seriously have an awesome brain. 🤔 your attention to detail and ability to explain things are enviable. Awesome work.
Thank you
Great video. Pre ordered my Cetus MKII few weeks ago so whenever it arrives maybe I will get one of those cameras and set it up like you.
Oh, Marco. In addition to providing some very informative videos, you're the only person who manages to make me bark with laughter at least twice in every one of them. And I won't even mention the sexy "Terminator" voice... Oh, wait...
oh hey you have an s7 too
have you noticed occasional pops and ticks in the audio?
awesome work. the time lapse stuff is impressive - as is the heated platform...thank you!
I just took apart my cetus hotend and the heater cartrige is labled 24V 80W, so no problem there with the new power supply.
Oh that's valuable information, thank you!
@Marco Reps, are you still as happy with the Cetus printer? If it is accurate enough for a guy building 1 ppm voltmeters at home, it is good enough for me.
Very cool video. Pls don’t stop them coming
Great enclosure build with aluminum frame and acrylic window panes.
I noticed! It was absolutely butter!!!
Reflector button/switch on plate. Take photo when aligned.
You can also make a manual version with a button magnet and paperclip
Marco Reps, great video, but with a heated build chamber, how does the electronics and motors deal with 60C/140F ambient temp? Control electronics can overheat at those temps.
I've never gotten vapor smoothing to work without some heating. The boiling point of acetone is ~50C so it doesn't take much. It only takes 30-60 minutes at most. Once you're happy with the result, let the part dry out for a while, it will have soaked in the acetone (which acts as a plasticizer so it might be temporarily flexible).
You don't need to boil the acetone. Even water evaporates without boiling, very slowly tho.
You can use cold acetone method (at about 25ºC for an hour+), or hot acetone method (at about 50ºC for a couple minutes). The first is easier to control, but slow, which is good for beginners on post-processing. The later is recommended for more experienced users, and need to be done with a lot of caution (acetone is highly inflamable).
Looking at getting a cetus3d largely based on your reviews, but the software is holding me back. I want a slicer I can tinker with. Ive seen they added support for importing gcode from other slicers; but on their own forums all I see is misery in trying to get that to work. Is that sampling bias? Do you have any experience, say, importing gcode from cura?
🤔 Would you be able to extemd the X axis if you have the equipment?
My brand new extended cetus mk3 caught fire and they said i was the first. My question is why did they have thermal runaway off?
Awesome timelapse concept! Thanks for sharing.
Really alot of good work in this one video... impressive and entertaining
You pack a lot into a short time always fun and interesting to watch. 👍
Nice video! put the part in the fridge or freezer before acetone smoothing
try PETG... excellent fillament material
Will do!
Love your videos. I was waiting for another about 3d printing, finally!!
Did you print polycarbonate with default nozzle?
I have a small question. When you print with PETG material, are you using 24VDC or the original 19VDC?
Because the printing temperature required by PETG is too high, I am not sure if my V2 extrusion head can reach this temperature, using 19VDC.
Thank you
Can't you use a limit switch or proximity sensor to automatically take photos in the same positions?
If your getting good results with that build platform then more power to you! Expect curling edges on larger parts as you get close to the edge of the build platform and other problems due to how uneven it is, but if you don't print things that have those issues, then it's a solution that works well for you!
I haven't seen a resistor based heated bed for years. Nowadays, even most of the the traditional PCB based bed heaters are considered uneven. :)
you should defenitely try the vapor smoothing again, that didnt look like it worked at all, some people warm the aceton a bit up, to get more vapor...
I like when you were drilling your finger. Very nice.
My guess is that your room temperature was too low, so the acetone would evaporate very slowly.
Try the same process, but put the (very) closed jar on top of the heated bed, while it's heated at 50ºC.
A few minutes should do the trick :)
I used your power resistor idea and it works great. Using a cheap RAMPS 1.4 board to control the power. Went cheap on the box though of 5mm thick wood planks:P You REALLY need the box if you want ABS, the warping is bad.
octoprint on a raspberry pi will control the printer through a browser interface and do timelapses with any usb camera, with the option for using changes in z height for the trigger.
Yeh, that seems like a great software and I'll try to use it one day, but the Cetus printers still have their proprietary controller that won't talk to Octoprint
well that's no fun. I'd be tempted to hook all of the mechanics up to an open controller like RAMPs or a smoothieboard.
If you want a really nice machine, and are up for it, I can definitely recommend building a hypercube evolution. I put one together with a 750w heated bed on a cast aluminum precision plate, with a print area of 400x400x500mm, running on a azteeg x5 gt. It's a very capable printer.
Phew 750W? You could use it for cooking when it's not being printed on :)
Hi Marco, do you any chance have dimensions for the enclosure? I want to try building an enclosure for my cetus and can use some help.
I noticed the time-lapse clip at the beginning ;)
me to :D
Thoughts on printing with PETG? I’ve read a lot recently saying how it’s easier to print than ABS, and stronger.
6:12 I have the same OCD problem with my Cetus3D 😎
Looks very comfy. Do they sell the controller board separately?
You could have used something like a usb heating pad or a 12V 10-50W heating pad instead to make sure it's even spread. Or even a thermoelectric cooler as they would reach their own temp limit of 70.
I like elp cams. Ordered a 1080p h.264 to connect to the trinocular port on my microscope. c to m12 adapter for like 6 bucks, 15 buck trinoc tube to c adapter and 45 buck camera beats the hell out of the $200+ most places want for an entry level scope cam. i have 2 of their 720p hardware h.264 units and have always been pleased with the price to quality ratio
Do know how to 'clean' the Cetus platform? Do you use Blue Tape? Questions like that...
Could the timelapse thing be done with any USB camera or even with Raspberrys own camera module?
Nice! I like the OpenCV work, I have just started looking at that library.
Why does the acetone vapor polish look so bad though? Isn't it possible to get it to be even glossy when you erode so much detail with acetone vapor?
Very nice time lapse solution! Did you manage to get a true continuous single outline corkscrew (aka "vase mode") print out of your Cetus? Unfortunately their proprietary firmware seems to have problems with very small Z-Axis steps.
I could not do that one yet myself, so please tell me how, in case it is possible.
would you ever implement the trinamic tmc2130 stepper driver inside cetus printer?
do you have a spec sheet for the power resistors used?
Your links to the camera ain't working :-(
Hi Marco what nozzle are you using, and best settings for good prints on the cetus, i just got the cetus ext. thanks for your videos
.2mm nozzle for small parts and fine details like 5:05 and .4mm nozzle for larger parts like 7:30 ... I got the impression that the "fine" and "normal" settings in the software make very little difference near the built platform, because there are almost no vibrations. But taller parts definitely benefit from the "fine" setting. I am usually setting the extruder temperature 10°C higher than the manufacturer recommends.
Your humor is fantastic!
Marco Reps You need to make a shop tour video. I and I'm sure a lot of people would like to see all your equipment and the space is occupies.
If that was after a few hours of vapor polishing - then that must not be pure ABS.
so true
The pro ABS is not soluble un acetone :/
If the image comparison function does something like sum of square errors over the difference image, it would be sufficient to compare only the luma channel (Y) instead of all three channels (YUV or RGB). So, if there is an easy way to access the luma channels then you could save energy here.
Another implementation tries to simplify every frame before comparing it: lvelho.impa.br/ip15/demos/daniel-moura/hyperlapse.html But I wasn't sure if that would pay off at all. Do you think there's a chance I can get the Y channel directly from the camera?
I don't think you can read directly in other colorspaces, but this should be quite fast:
yuv=cv2.cvtColor(frame,cv2.COLOR_BGR2YUV)
y,u,v = cv2.split(yuv)
Marco Reps It depends on how the camera works. However, the H264 encoder will use YUV colorspace. So the color conversion is performed somewhere on the way to the video encoder. If you could just grab the Y channel from that hardware (before it reaches the encoder), you would get it "for free". Otherwise, it can still be faster to convert each RGB image into it's grayscale Y version. And then compare only Y images with eachother.
( .. unfortunatelly, i am not a Python expert .. for each pixel: Y = 0.299×Red + 0.587×Green + 0.114×Blue .. or similar numbers)
Marco Reps Now that i think about it, if you would use a black-and-white camera then every channel would be Y. But of course the video would be grayscale, too.
Hmm, maybe you could use a second camera that produces a small grayscale image. That would be easy to process and sufficient to decide which frame of the "main camera" wins.
Most Caps run on 16V so if your running anything above that ie:24v they will blow up, thus causing the magic smoke you had!
Sorry if its a stupid question but shouldn't you keep your electronics outside the enclosure? (like the board)
Not stupid at all! Heat makes many components age faster, so if possible it should be avoided. In this case it's only 40°C in the box and I'm sure the components will survive that until I convert the main board to all open source everything.
Thankyou for the speedy reply! it answered alot :)
The ABS pro is not afected by the acetone And Also has a Lot les warping
That's actually really nice!
Hi Marco, just a quick question how thick is the build plate on your Cetus ?
3mm + 0.2 or something in coating. The plate I showed the overheating with was just a piece of 1mm scrap sheet metal
Thanks - I'm currently building a printer, and I'm having trouble to decide what type of build plate to use. A planed aluminium sheet seems a good idea, but will it hold up at 450x420mm ?
And yes, I did not think you'd use the original to fry a PVC egg on it. It looked good though ...
Hm, almost half a meter by almost half a meter is pretty big. How are you going to mount that? 4 points in the corners would probably be very good, one point in the center might be a bit wobbly. You could reinforce it with an epoxied carbon fiber sheet, which would also be beneficial for heating
The plate is mounted to the rail of an MGN12 slider (upside-down) on both ends and in the center, the slide is at approximately 1/3 of the width of the plate, offset to the left. There will be a roller at the right edge to take excessive load - there's a build vlog on my channel if you are interested. I opted for a 6mm aluminium sheet now, until I can get some sandwich material that will have to do.
That's looking great! Upside down mounting of the rail is a very good idea.
Nice! Can I ask what polycarbonate are you using? And did you need to change anything with the heater? I thought that PC needs a nozzle temperature of ~300C, and the Cetus can only get to ~260. Thanks :)
I haven't printed much at higher temperatures, so I can't promise anything, but I've heard that extruder temperatures of up to 300°C are ok and that is exactly where the software setting stops, too. My PC came from a German shop called Conrad, it's their own brand Renkforce and it printed perfectly at 270°C and about 70°C plate temperature.
Great review!!!
Please review a large format delta printer capable of poly carbonate.
Hi Marco, I always enjoy your humor in your videos. Which of the many available ELP cameras did you get? For instance the lense size? I see a 4mm lense available, but is that the best? There are fisheye and 180° view lenses available as well.
Would you reveal the model number please? (drumroll)
This one: www.amazon.de//dp/B01MRR91I6/ Not exactly sure about the model number
Thanks! It is a model ELP-USBFHD06H serial, I think this is the same one as yours, ELP Sony IMX322 Sensor Mini Usb Camera Module HD 1080P (None distortion 100 degree) at Amazon US. $80. I think most of the models available have that same number on the PCB, but the lense configuration is a bit different for each one. This is the US Amazon link: www.amazon.com/ELP-IMX322-Sensor-Camera-distortion/dp/B06ZZW5HP5/ref=sr_1_10?s=movies-tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1516007308&sr=8-10&keywords=ELP%2BWebcam%2BFull%2BHD%2B1080p%2BH.264%2BUSB&th=1
5:50 "remember me"?
Nice video and printer, I might actually get one. Do you know if one can use the Trinamic SilentStepStick TMC**** ?????
It is possible for sure because the stock drivers use a normal step/direction interface. But setting up steps/mm, direction pin inverts, etc. is difficult because the controller is proprietary. I'll either leave it as is or make a full conversion to open source components at some point
As I thought. But it seem like it is rather silent out of the box.
Do you think you could break this printer down and pack into a pelican 1430 case?
So what about polycarbonate printing? I'm curious about what you did
I'm liking your videos more and more
All the ELP Camera links are dead.
Hey Marco did you submit a guest video to Dave? It would be very cool to see you there.
Nah, he wanted
Nice - I've also always wanted to build a temperature controlled enclosure, just with a simple temperature sensor and a fan to get the warm air out, if it gets too hot (the cold-end would not get sufficient cooling any more and the filament would start to flex).
Though I've always told myself that I'd build a better 3D printer one day with linear rails instead of rods and all and then also build a nice enclosure. Now been doing that for half a year and still haven't built any of those things :P
Yes, getting started is often difficult, but when it's fun the work is almost progressing automatically
Hey Marco. I'm thinking of buying this beauty myself too. I was wondering, the shipping is done by DHL from China. If course import rules are different in the Netherlands but just wondering how much you had to pay additionally on top of the shipping costs to get the thing cleared from the border, or how it's called. I cannot find any useful info on the DHL website unfortunately :( Love your video's btw... Binged about all of them already :D
A little more than a hundred eur for both the extended and the standard printer. And their value was declared correctly. I think import taxes into the EU should be universal, but customs might vary?
I ordered from China directly and they put $160 as total value. Yay!
can you amazon link to your clear sheets?
Hey Marco, i thought i hear you mention in one of your vids that you might convert your cetus 3d into a pcb milling device. On the off change that I did hear that correctly, did you do it? if so, are you satisfied with the results ?
(thought i check with one of the masters before i tried it myself ;) )
No I didn't try that because the axes are spring loaded and the belts will stretch slightly too, when loaded mechanically. That will add non-negotiable error to all milled contours. Larger errors if you want to make board cutouts, smaller errors if you want to do isolation engraving with a tiny engraving bit and slow speeds. What could work without built-in errors is a drilling machine (when the Z-axis holding mechanism is removed)
Yea, i see what you mean, good points both, especially over time the error will grow. and would require constant adjustments, not ideal to say the least... Thanks for your answer, ill keep looking for a better solution.... ;)
Clear acrylic always cracks when I try to drill it. Did you have that problem?
just do it slower and mark a point before drilling
Not at all when drilling it but when I stupidly used WD40 (with benzine) to lubricate thread cutters. Should've done that far away from the acrylic :-\ What did you use? Sharp metal drill bit at slow speed, and even slower when it's almost through. When you are using a drill press where you can't adjust RPM easily, you could try to use lubrication like soapy water or petroleum
I suppose I have to exercise more patience and go slower, as well as employing an adequate backstop. Generally it cracks if I drill near the edge.
Superb! Do you have any idea why the script you provided would throw this error?
\_structural_similarity.py", line 85, in compare_ssim
if not X.dtype == Y.dtype:
AttributeError: 'NoneType' object has no attribute 'dtype'
Thanks!
One of your input images is "none" instead of an image, you can debug that with
namedWindow( "Display window", WINDOW_AUTOSIZE );// Create a window for display.
imshow( "Display window", image ); // Show our image inside it.
Thanks for replying. Input images? The only input I see is "video.mp4" which is in the same folder as the script
You are passing 2 frames aka images to the ssim(frame, previous) compare function. Does it happen at the end, when the entire video has been processed already? Then it is normal, because the frame after the last frame is nonexistent. If it happens right away
It happens right away, under 1 second from executing the script. Python version 3.6.3 Windows 10
Then you've got to find out why one of the frames is none. Try going through the video and display every frame in a window for example. Do you have ffmpeg installed and in the path variable? I think that was required for working with video files in OpenCV. Might even have to be compiled with ffmpeg support. Looks like you can avoid that with Anaconda (www.anaconda.com/download/) and just execute "conda install -c menpo opencv3 ffmpeg" but not sure!
Nice video, just a short question: Which cetus model are you using? Cetus3D or CetusExtended? Would you recommend buying the extended version?
I have one of each! There is literally no difference apart from the extended Z axis, so if you want to print taller parts, you need it, if not, you don't
okay, thanks. I would have expected a least a slightly worse print quality due to the higher mechanical elasticity of the z-axis for the extended version. Besides that, shipping to germany went fine? Is it really around 50 USD, did you order from china or uk stock?
I haven't printed anything at the highest possible Z coordinates yet, but near the build platform quality is equal as far as I can tell. Shipping with DHL Express went ok-ish, they kept it in their facility for a few days because they didn't believe the price on the invoice. Had to send a few emails and then it got through, had to pay a little more than 100€ in taxes and customs for both printers.
Perfect, thanks again for your response.
I really like your videos, especially your sense of humor ;) Keep up the good work!!
Good morning Marco. Great video as usual. Quick question: have you looked at potential bed warpage issues with that aluminum plate now that its heated? Reason I ask is that when you demonstrated the overheating of the PLA, you could really see the aluminum distort.
Good point, should've annotated that: The plate I tested overheating with was cut from 1mm thick sheet metal scrap using dull sheet metal scissors so it was bent to begin with. The original Cetus build plate has that special coating that I didn't want to destroy. It is much thicker and flat. It doesn't flex at normal print bed temperatures
That's good. :-)
"not at all."
Well lets say that its not easily visible.
Smoooth. That's "smoooth". With three o.
wich temp you use for PC filament?
That's a beautiful view through the window and on the roof of another of your Cetus vids. Southern Germany perhaps?
I like Ron's glare.
"Surveilance snake likes its freedom, as much as it likes taking it away" lol!
Nice Timelapse, you could try to use a photo diode and a laser at the end of the printer to signal the snapshot
Zevs Richy
:D your videos are so awesome. Ah, and thank you for the tip with skimage, wasn't arware of it at all.
Blew that old carbon comp resistor right in half, impressive
Dip it into acetone. count to 1 s, take it out and let it dry for 20 mins without touching, will look like polished.