Modified Cetus 3D printing ABS and Polycarbonate, Revolutionary timelapse
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ม.ค. 2018
- Cetus 3D Printer: shop.tiertime.com/
5% COUPON code for Cetus: 5pctoff
Your own Surveillance Snake: bit.ly/2PcDEd0
ELP Camera DE Amazion : goo.gl/b5oxRR
ELP Camera Amazon : goo.gl/hWB7Qp
ELP Camera Aliexpress : goo.gl/jMy1W6
Printreon: / marcoreps
Temperature controller schematic: reps.cc/?p=88
Smooth time lapse code: reps.cc/?p=85
In this video I'll equip the Cetus 3D printer with a heated build platform and an enclosure to make printing of advanced materials like ABS and even polycarbonate possible. I'll also show a revolutionary way of selecting similar frames to get a super smooth timelapse. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Dude lol, I find it hilarious how much you love the cetus. I find it pretty under engineered. It is basically ignoring many 3d printer advancements over the years. No self adhering heated bed. Non geared, unconstrained direct drive extruder that makes flexible almost impossible. No type of pressure advance. At least it has a rock solid motion platform with the rails and belt driven Z. It seems like a printer stuck in 2014.
Still, I bet an enclosed coreXY printer using a e3d Hemera extruder, running a duet with Reprap firmware and pressure advance with a heated removable flexible pei sheet bed and hiwin rails would blow your mind. You could run prints at like 250mm/s with acceleration values of like 3000 with damned near perfect quality. You can literally lift the printer by the extruder with a geared dual drive system. If the filament could hold the weight that is.
You should build one up to the standards of your sick CNC mill. Go crazy with it. Ball screws, Hiwin rails, heated enclosure with water cooling. I wanna see you print some engineering grade plastics like PEEK and PEI.
I was about to comment about how great the timelapse at the beginning looked, never saw any 3d printer timelapse that smooth! Great you explained it, awsome what you came up with
It's a joy to find a place like here, with such a good and informative technical content. Thanks.
awesome work. the time lapse stuff is impressive - as is the heated platform...thank you!
Top quality videos, interesting topics, good humour and regular uploads. I feel bad that you don't have more subscribers and views. Keep up the good work!
Oh I am very happy with a slow but steady growth and because I don't do advertising on other platforms, everyone who's here has found my stuff by himself which is cool.
Love your videos. I was waiting for another about 3d printing, finally!!
Awesome timelapse concept! Thanks for sharing.
Your videos are AMAZING, and they always make me think of "look around you" for some reason...
Qualitiy video as usual! Informative, funny, well edited. Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
I find the lack of Keithley test gear in this video disturbing. Very nice video btw.
You pack a lot into a short time always fun and interesting to watch. 👍
Very cool video. Pls don’t stop them coming
surveillance snake is watching
This is now the Matrix started!!
Great video. Pre ordered my Cetus MKII few weeks ago so whenever it arrives maybe I will get one of those cameras and set it up like you.
That's actually really nice!
Nice! I like the OpenCV work, I have just started looking at that library.
Really alot of good work in this one video... impressive and entertaining
I noticed! It was absolutely butter!!!
Your humor is fantastic!
Dude.... You seriously have an awesome brain. 🤔 your attention to detail and ability to explain things are enviable. Awesome work.
Thank you
I'm liking your videos more and more
i love your dry sense of humour Marco ! BTW pass on my best regards to surveillance snake, if he's watching.......
How do you not have millions of subscribers?? Best channel on TH-cam.
Nice timelapse! I actually did something similar recently... by injecting gcode to take a snapshot every time the Z axis changes and move the hotend away to a fixed location before taking a snapshot.
This seems to be the best solution
Unless the fixed location is directly in front of the camera.
Won't moving your print head that much between layers have some effect on your print quality?
+Ant yes and no, there are definitively some ways to mitigate the effects.
That would really slow down your prints. I think this opencv is a nice solution although, ...well this topic can get complicated.
Great enclosure build with aluminum frame and acrylic window panes.
Reflector button/switch on plate. Take photo when aligned.
You can also make a manual version with a button magnet and paperclip
Octoprint does the timelapse on z change with a plugin. Also lets you load/monitor prints wirelessly on your home wifi connection.
no snake thought, i will pass
I built a wooden box around the cetus, but had to add also a 12V fan. The stored heat was messing up the z-axis and the belt started to slip above 50°C. I also printed the fan extension from thingiverse for 60mm fans, since the factory 40mm fan is with 38db a bit to noisy and you can buy 60mm fans for less than 5euros double your cfm and reduce the noise to 21db.
Man, you're crazy! Had to subscribe!!
I think PETG pretty much made ABS obsolete for most - but not all - use cases. It's sooo much easier to print than ABS (no enclosure needed, but you need a heated bed) and is super strong. Plus it can make a really detailed print when you have those settings tuned in so no vapor smoothing needed.
I have never seen a low-cost PETG. I got my ABS for £7/kg.
Afdhal Atiff Tan Amin Husaini Tan True, you can get super cheap ABS. On Amazon where I get most of my reels it's about the same cost (20-25 USD/Kg) for ABS/PLA/PETG from the lower cost ones I trust (eSun, Hatchbox, and MG Chemicals).
Afdhal Atiff Tan Amin Husaini Tan where ?
Well, in my experience, low cost ABS has cost me more than my PETG; in failed prints alone and time wasted :P
But then again, I don't have an enclosure, so before I try doing ABS again, I will build an enclosure. Problem is that the material I want for the enclosure on my Delta, is either too expensive or the shipping is ass (channeled polycarbonate)! All easy to get acrylic/plexi etc, is too expensive... I just have to move first(Where I rent now, has become both too expensive and inconvenient), before I order the channeled polycarbonate and some other stuff, to justify the shipping a bit more :)
OctoPrint has a nice Timelapse feature, that only takes a snapshot when it detects a z change in the gcode. Does exactly what you want, makes beautifully smooth time lapses. Especially if you attach the camera to the heated bed.
With Marco Reps, I can learn something and watch comedy at the same time. Multitasking education.
Just love your channel! Fkn great!!!!
I love the foreshadowing XD
Great video !
I love this channel
I like when you were drilling your finger. Very nice.
The cetus 3D printer is a great printer I've actually wanted one but near the end when you showed that camera setup it looked really awesome would you possibly make a video on setting that camera up and 3D printed parts.
I noticed the time-lapse clip at the beginning ;)
me to :D
Marco Reps You need to make a shop tour video. I and I'm sure a lot of people would like to see all your equipment and the space is occupies.
love your video
very useful information
Oh, Marco. In addition to providing some very informative videos, you're the only person who manages to make me bark with laughter at least twice in every one of them. And I won't even mention the sexy "Terminator" voice... Oh, wait...
Neat! I've been using OpenCV on a Pi Zero with a camera to catch my cat stealing food from my dog's bowl. Just gotta figure out what to have it do to get her to stop, maybe spray some water using an actuator or something.
Cool! Does the Pi Zero also have multiple CPU cores? I am definitely going to try to compile OpenCV for using multiple, and maybe even GPU, that would be so much more powerful ...
Oh cool, waiting for my 3D printer to arrive Tronxy X1), and I'm gonna use Octoprint with it, so ordered the Pi camera module as well. Already have an old Raspberry Pi doing nothing
Show her a picture of a cucumber...
No, the Pi Zero is 1 GHz single core. I think it might be able to handle the cat face Haar classifier, but just barely. I've got the Zero W (with wifi) and used Motion to turn it into a network camera- you can open an mjpeg stream as a VideoDevice in openCV just by passing in a URL. Right now I'm doing a standalone script, but I also use Home Assistant and they have support for openCV so I'm thinking I might use that if I go further.
I use an electric wok to vapour polish my parts. It works very well and has no open flames.
Great review!!!
Please review a large format delta printer capable of poly carbonate.
Marco Reps, great video, but with a heated build chamber, how does the electronics and motors deal with 60C/140F ambient temp? Control electronics can overheat at those temps.
Nice video! put the part in the fridge or freezer before acetone smoothing
Smoooth. That's "smoooth". With three o.
That's a beautiful view through the window and on the roof of another of your Cetus vids. Southern Germany perhaps?
If your getting good results with that build platform then more power to you! Expect curling edges on larger parts as you get close to the edge of the build platform and other problems due to how uneven it is, but if you don't print things that have those issues, then it's a solution that works well for you!
I haven't seen a resistor based heated bed for years. Nowadays, even most of the the traditional PCB based bed heaters are considered uneven. :)
I used your power resistor idea and it works great. Using a cheap RAMPS 1.4 board to control the power. Went cheap on the box though of 5mm thick wood planks:P You REALLY need the box if you want ABS, the warping is bad.
I just took apart my cetus hotend and the heater cartrige is labled 24V 80W, so no problem there with the new power supply.
Oh that's valuable information, thank you!
"Surveilance snake likes its freedom, as much as it likes taking it away" lol!
Thanks for sharing :-)
Nice - I've also always wanted to build a temperature controlled enclosure, just with a simple temperature sensor and a fan to get the warm air out, if it gets too hot (the cold-end would not get sufficient cooling any more and the filament would start to flex).
Though I've always told myself that I'd build a better 3D printer one day with linear rails instead of rods and all and then also build a nice enclosure. Now been doing that for half a year and still haven't built any of those things :P
Yes, getting started is often difficult, but when it's fun the work is almost progressing automatically
Can't you use a limit switch or proximity sensor to automatically take photos in the same positions?
would you ever implement the trinamic tmc2130 stepper driver inside cetus printer?
I like elp cams. Ordered a 1080p h.264 to connect to the trinocular port on my microscope. c to m12 adapter for like 6 bucks, 15 buck trinoc tube to c adapter and 45 buck camera beats the hell out of the $200+ most places want for an entry level scope cam. i have 2 of their 720p hardware h.264 units and have always been pleased with the price to quality ratio
🤔 Would you be able to extemd the X axis if you have the equipment?
Coole Videos, hast ein Abo
:D your videos are so awesome. Ah, and thank you for the tip with skimage, wasn't arware of it at all.
oh hey you have an s7 too
have you noticed occasional pops and ticks in the audio?
Good morning Marco. Great video as usual. Quick question: have you looked at potential bed warpage issues with that aluminum plate now that its heated? Reason I ask is that when you demonstrated the overheating of the PLA, you could really see the aluminum distort.
Good point, should've annotated that: The plate I tested overheating with was cut from 1mm thick sheet metal scrap using dull sheet metal scissors so it was bent to begin with. The original Cetus build plate has that special coating that I didn't want to destroy. It is much thicker and flat. It doesn't flex at normal print bed temperatures
That's good. :-)
"not at all."
Well lets say that its not easily visible.
Thoughts on printing with PETG? I’ve read a lot recently saying how it’s easier to print than ABS, and stronger.
you should defenitely try the vapor smoothing again, that didnt look like it worked at all, some people warm the aceton a bit up, to get more vapor...
Looks very comfy. Do they sell the controller board separately?
Thank you, very nice video, as always! Keep up the good work! - could the cetus be modified to be used with a laser to make clean laser cuts thrue paper?
Laser cutting paper is often not that clean, because burning edges, but theoretically yes, absolutely: th-cam.com/video/gm5P74vcB84/w-d-xo.html
I´ve read that you need at least a 60W laser to have clean cuts with no burns
Do know how to 'clean' the Cetus platform? Do you use Blue Tape? Questions like that...
My brand new extended cetus mk3 caught fire and they said i was the first. My question is why did they have thermal runaway off?
My guess is that your room temperature was too low, so the acetone would evaporate very slowly.
Try the same process, but put the (very) closed jar on top of the heated bed, while it's heated at 50ºC.
A few minutes should do the trick :)
Do you think you could break this printer down and pack into a pelican 1430 case?
I have a small question. When you print with PETG material, are you using 24VDC or the original 19VDC?
Because the printing temperature required by PETG is too high, I am not sure if my V2 extrusion head can reach this temperature, using 19VDC.
Thank you
I've never gotten vapor smoothing to work without some heating. The boiling point of acetone is ~50C so it doesn't take much. It only takes 30-60 minutes at most. Once you're happy with the result, let the part dry out for a while, it will have soaked in the acetone (which acts as a plasticizer so it might be temporarily flexible).
You don't need to boil the acetone. Even water evaporates without boiling, very slowly tho.
You can use cold acetone method (at about 25ºC for an hour+), or hot acetone method (at about 50ºC for a couple minutes). The first is easier to control, but slow, which is good for beginners on post-processing. The later is recommended for more experienced users, and need to be done with a lot of caution (acetone is highly inflamable).
@Marco Reps, are you still as happy with the Cetus printer? If it is accurate enough for a guy building 1 ppm voltmeters at home, it is good enough for me.
Nice Timelapse, you could try to use a photo diode and a laser at the end of the printer to signal the snapshot
Zevs Richy
6:12 I have the same OCD problem with my Cetus3D 😎
Hi Marco what nozzle are you using, and best settings for good prints on the cetus, i just got the cetus ext. thanks for your videos
.2mm nozzle for small parts and fine details like 5:05 and .4mm nozzle for larger parts like 7:30 ... I got the impression that the "fine" and "normal" settings in the software make very little difference near the built platform, because there are almost no vibrations. But taller parts definitely benefit from the "fine" setting. I am usually setting the extruder temperature 10°C higher than the manufacturer recommends.
Hi Marco, do you any chance have dimensions for the enclosure? I want to try building an enclosure for my cetus and can use some help.
I like Ron's glare.
Hi Marco, I always enjoy your humor in your videos. Which of the many available ELP cameras did you get? For instance the lense size? I see a 4mm lense available, but is that the best? There are fisheye and 180° view lenses available as well.
Would you reveal the model number please? (drumroll)
This one: www.amazon.de//dp/B01MRR91I6/ Not exactly sure about the model number
Thanks! It is a model ELP-USBFHD06H serial, I think this is the same one as yours, ELP Sony IMX322 Sensor Mini Usb Camera Module HD 1080P (None distortion 100 degree) at Amazon US. $80. I think most of the models available have that same number on the PCB, but the lense configuration is a bit different for each one. This is the US Amazon link: www.amazon.com/ELP-IMX322-Sensor-Camera-distortion/dp/B06ZZW5HP5/ref=sr_1_10?s=movies-tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1516007308&sr=8-10&keywords=ELP%2BWebcam%2BFull%2BHD%2B1080p%2BH.264%2BUSB&th=1
Very nice time lapse solution! Did you manage to get a true continuous single outline corkscrew (aka "vase mode") print out of your Cetus? Unfortunately their proprietary firmware seems to have problems with very small Z-Axis steps.
I could not do that one yet myself, so please tell me how, in case it is possible.
do you have a spec sheet for the power resistors used?
Ich Feier so sehr dein Kanal 😃
Kannst du bitte n Video über Präzision von led sla ducket machen wie zb Turbo Fan impeller und Festigkeit von uv resin machen?
Ich bin so unglaublich neidisch über dein Wissen und Fähigkeiten!
Und die geilen Sachen die du machst! 😃😂
OMG!
Mach weiter!
try PETG... excellent fillament material
Will do!
can you amazon link to your clear sheets?
Looking at getting a cetus3d largely based on your reviews, but the software is holding me back. I want a slicer I can tinker with. Ive seen they added support for importing gcode from other slicers; but on their own forums all I see is misery in trying to get that to work. Is that sampling bias? Do you have any experience, say, importing gcode from cura?
Why does the acetone vapor polish look so bad though? Isn't it possible to get it to be even glossy when you erode so much detail with acetone vapor?
Could the timelapse thing be done with any USB camera or even with Raspberrys own camera module?
You are a very odd individual. That's probably why I enjoy your videos so much. I about spit my coffee out with the finger circle....
wich temp you use for PC filament?
You have a Kaypro? Cool!
What I want to see is glass reinforced nylon printing. Probably nozzles would die after some time, but that structural strength! I also heard about ferrous filament.
Printed brushless inrunner motor project for example??? Maybe printed stepper motors? 3D printer printed on a 3D printer???!!! ;-)
Nice video and printer, I might actually get one. Do you know if one can use the Trinamic SilentStepStick TMC**** ?????
It is possible for sure because the stock drivers use a normal step/direction interface. But setting up steps/mm, direction pin inverts, etc. is difficult because the controller is proprietary. I'll either leave it as is or make a full conversion to open source components at some point
As I thought. But it seem like it is rather silent out of the box.
Marco, I'm completely blown away by the time lapse at the start of the video. Subbed. I'm a bit of a n00b but have some raspberry Pi 3's around my space. Are there any detailed instructions of installing / operating the code? I've looked at the link to the code but that's insufficient for my n00bness. Cheers, JAYTEE
Wanting a result is much more pleasant way of learning than passing an exam, so I'd highly recommend to try it yourself. Just google what you want to know like "install opencv python raspberry pi" and you are on the way ... compilation will take a few hours tho.
Hey Marco, that's an excellent point you make. Thanks again for your video. Cheers, JAYTEE
Nice! Can I ask what polycarbonate are you using? And did you need to change anything with the heater? I thought that PC needs a nozzle temperature of ~300C, and the Cetus can only get to ~260. Thanks :)
I haven't printed much at higher temperatures, so I can't promise anything, but I've heard that extruder temperatures of up to 300°C are ok and that is exactly where the software setting stops, too. My PC came from a German shop called Conrad, it's their own brand Renkforce and it printed perfectly at 270°C and about 70°C plate temperature.
So what about polycarbonate printing? I'm curious about what you did
Did you print polycarbonate with default nozzle?
If the image comparison function does something like sum of square errors over the difference image, it would be sufficient to compare only the luma channel (Y) instead of all three channels (YUV or RGB). So, if there is an easy way to access the luma channels then you could save energy here.
Another implementation tries to simplify every frame before comparing it: lvelho.impa.br/ip15/demos/daniel-moura/hyperlapse.html But I wasn't sure if that would pay off at all. Do you think there's a chance I can get the Y channel directly from the camera?
I don't think you can read directly in other colorspaces, but this should be quite fast:
yuv=cv2.cvtColor(frame,cv2.COLOR_BGR2YUV)
y,u,v = cv2.split(yuv)
Marco Reps It depends on how the camera works. However, the H264 encoder will use YUV colorspace. So the color conversion is performed somewhere on the way to the video encoder. If you could just grab the Y channel from that hardware (before it reaches the encoder), you would get it "for free". Otherwise, it can still be faster to convert each RGB image into it's grayscale Y version. And then compare only Y images with eachother.
( .. unfortunatelly, i am not a Python expert .. for each pixel: Y = 0.299×Red + 0.587×Green + 0.114×Blue .. or similar numbers)
Marco Reps Now that i think about it, if you would use a black-and-white camera then every channel would be Y. But of course the video would be grayscale, too.
Hmm, maybe you could use a second camera that produces a small grayscale image. That would be easy to process and sufficient to decide which frame of the "main camera" wins.
You could have used something like a usb heating pad or a 12V 10-50W heating pad instead to make sure it's even spread. Or even a thermoelectric cooler as they would reach their own temp limit of 70.
Hey Marco. I'm thinking of buying this beauty myself too. I was wondering, the shipping is done by DHL from China. If course import rules are different in the Netherlands but just wondering how much you had to pay additionally on top of the shipping costs to get the thing cleared from the border, or how it's called. I cannot find any useful info on the DHL website unfortunately :( Love your video's btw... Binged about all of them already :D
A little more than a hundred eur for both the extended and the standard printer. And their value was declared correctly. I think import taxes into the EU should be universal, but customs might vary?
I ordered from China directly and they put $160 as total value. Yay!