How to make your 3D printer smart and silent with the TMC2130!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2024
- The TMC2130 is a stepper motor driver that is specifically designed for 3D printers - and it works so well that even Prusa is using it on their new MK3! In this video, I'll show you how to upgrade your own 3D printer with the same driver and get some of the sweet benefits an
Thank you to Trinamic for sponsoring this guide! Check out their full product range here trinamic.com/
🛒 TMC2130 SilentStepStick 🇩🇪 www.watterott.com/de/SilentSte...
🛒 TMC2130 SilentStepStick 🇺🇸 www.filastruder.com/products/...
🛒 TMC2130 SilentStepStick www.digikey.com/product-detai...
🛒 Mini breadboards s.click.aliexpress.com/e/IieYb2f
🛒 Jumper wires plug to socket s.click.aliexpress.com/e/JYnqZNZ
🛒 Jumper wires socket to socket s.click.aliexpress.com/e/6qjQnqB (you need these for the DIAG pins)
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Exactly the sort of technical vids I love. Thank you Tom
Yeah, he finally made video for normal human beings. This is something that regular people with jobs can watch. :)
Yeah for the nube like me this is gold ! I'm learning so much with Tom's vids
Dude! This is insane! I've just installed 4 of these drivers on an ultimaker clone, in standalone mode and all I had to do was remove a couple jumpers, reverse the steppers and change z steps/mm. I didn't even have to change the firmware. It's like I have a completely new, silent, cooler, printer. I can't believe how great these work. It's completely silent.
Thank you for making us aware of these drivers. It's hands down absolutely the best upgrade one can make to a printer. Again, can't thank you enough!
I am so glad to see another "How to" video from you Thomas. These made me subscribe a year ago;)
Hello Thomas!
I have to thank you for all the Know-how you share with the community. I really appreciate your work and I'm a huge fan of what you do with 3D printers. For me as an electrical engineering student I do have to say that the quality of your information is amazing. I would love to see more engineering updates for DIY 3D printers.
With 2018 heading infront of us I wish you all the best for the new year and I hope to see you soon in the new year.
Best regards from Köln, Germany!
Very interesting and informative. I have been building a camera slider with a TMC2130 and I am loving how silent it is!
Just got my old Prusa I3 Czar upgraded with these (sort of a why not upgrade while doing a bunch of other tweaks) and they work just as advertised/reviewed. Your guide was all that I needed to get them together, soldered/wired up and Marlin configured. Thanks for laying the groundwork! So much smoother and the silent running claims are not exaggerated... about all i hear is my fan and bed springs wiggling at this point... night and day from the old unknown vintage A4988s on there previously.
Trinamic For The Win!!! I love the TMC2660 drivers on my Duet WiFi. Excellent video, Thanks Tom!
You are just the neatest person. This information is super helpful, thanks for sharing!
since i saw tom's mk3 video, i fell in love with the 2130, i was looking into integrating the 2130 in my ramps, suddenly the youtube subscription notification showed up on time :), thanks tom , love your videos
Thanks Tom. I instantly bought the drivers after watching the video. I soldered them, wired them up and put them in wrong direction on my board. I fryed them. I ordered 3 new ones and now my printer is super quiet. Also i got the feeling that my print quality has improved.
I connected them to the icsp-header for spi. For the 3 CS-Pins, I could use my ZMin-Pins (Delta Printer).
Like a new printer!!!
Thanks so much for this, I'm in the process of rebuilding a printer and this will really help a lot.
ORSM, thx for yet an high quality video, with reasonably in depth explanation, u'r the master
Awesome video. The type only you can do! exactly why I subscribe. You make it easy to follow along and this video will be relevant for years just like your other firmware/hardware vids.
Awesome video Tom, really useful and worth looking into the TCM2130's. I use TCM2100 and love them. Was impressed with how Prusa used the feedback of these new chips to add in lots of "fail safe" and error checking - just what the next generation of 3D printers need.
Thomas you are AMAZING at what you do. Your public speaking skills are very good, and have a very clever sense of humor.
Thank you for what you do, it makes a positive difference.
kevin
Wow! This looks great! I will definitely be upgrading my X and Y axis to these drivers for my new printer.
Great job as usual, I look forward to the setting up Marlin 1.1.6 video. I've been debating moving from 1.1.4.
I was about to buy one of these but were confused concerning the variety of the tmc family. Thanks for clearing me up, Tom!
Good job Thomas! Thanx for giving me some new things i have to do on my printer.
Thank you, looking forward to seeing what I can do to retain my LCD.
Looking good @ 60FPS! Keep up the fantastic work Tom!
HEY, great timing! I was just digging through the data sheets for these drivers last night. The SPI connection was particularly compelling to me. I also saw reference in the literature to an encoder input, but according to Trinamic that was an error... oh well: I would like a simple on-chip solution to close the loop, but these will do for now. I plan to put them through their paces after the holiday with 2 Amp steppers at higher speeds, so we’ll see how they hold up. If they fry, I'll give the TMC2660 a go.
Good stuff, thanks Tom! Love your tech videos. I just built a noisy printer and these would work great for shutting it up.
Compct and understandable. Just great man, thanks!!!
Your video production is on point,Tom! You've come a long way :)
Thanks Tom for a very good tutorial.
Awesome video! I can now hear all of the other mechanical noises my Robo R1 makes. Time to start printing some NinjaFlex dampers and ordering new linear bearings.
really interesting. just ordered two for my very noisy repstrap build
You could make it even quieter by converting to small noctua fans, those things have great airflow and are silent
And expensive for such small fans ;)
just if noctua made some blowerfans, that would be next level
Sintoxic
Very, but you usually only need two or three per printer maybe
wito
There are plenty of fan duct designs that work almost as well as squirrel cage blowers
My printer runs at 24v. Could I still use Noctua fans because I have only found 12v
You do amazing work, sir.
What obout 2208, do they have the same functionality but without the missed steps feedback etc.
8:51 I am really looking forward to that video! :)
Thanks Tom, for yet another great Video!
Appreciate for your video, building a new printer, and your info was very helpful for the TMC2130! Thanks :)
Nice video. And about time stepper drivers for these machines are updated. Take a look at the development that has happened for ESCs for multicopters (FPV/Racers) over the last couple of years. It's a world of difference. I'm sure this is a nice step. But also that there are plenty more optimization ahead of us.
Hey Tom, Any idea when we'll be getting that video explaining different pin usage when we have an LCD? Or maybe a video explaining how to update firmware without having to reconfigure it every time?
I was looking for the videoon the pin usage too... Seems Tom has forgotten about it :/
Well done Tom. This may be a mod I'll look at in the future. Gotta get my feet wet in the 3D printing end first. Thanks.
Great Job Tom. a "Silent night" of printing is on the way !
Missed you Thomas! Like these kind of video's
By the time you've bought a controller and 4x tmc2130 drivers then soldered it all up and reconfigured marlin you might as well have bought a Duet and be able to run 2.8A motors on tmc2660 in silence plus all other benefits. But as an instructional video it was good it shows you how to do it.
I would love a video giving an overview of everything involved with the electronics and control solution out there.
I'm looking into upgrading my ardunio mega/ramps1.4 based printer to a better control board/stepper drivers, but I'm a bit lost, is it a good idea to move to 32 bit yet or should I wait till marlin catches up?
7:50 nice. that's gotta be the smoothest plug ive seen yet.
Excellent Video! Thank you so much. Upgrading to TMC2130 made it so much easy. Now, looking forward to changing pins video (from Aux3 to Aux 2? so that it doesnt interfere with using LCD) and another video for transferring old Marlin setup to new one. Great work as always!
Hi krishnakumar You can use all the Pins in parallel to the LCD except for the Cable Select Pins. I just changed the the two CS Pins for X and Y in Marlin (pins_ramps.h) X_CS_PIN to 66 and Y_CS_PIN to 44. Works like a charm
Knu7Nuk3m thanks! I’ll give it a go..,
Thank you very much! Great stuff. 👍
omg. this is SO GOOD. So detailed. Some of it ("this is a comment") is really basic, but I probably benefit in other seconds where I have dumb questions. For me, this is the part of 3D printing that isn't well-discussed: how to change driver boards, fundamental changes.
thank you tom, this was an absolutely fantastic video! SO helpful and an incredible upgrade for sure.
do you have/can you get an affiliate link for watterott? i'll definitely be ordering some (soon) and it'd be great if it helps you out.
Hey Tom, How do I config this to use AUX-1 instead of AUX-3 as it is being used by a display. Great vid! Thank you
Hi Thomas; great video! But... how could this be done with the MK2's Rambo mini 1.3a that include the motor drivers onboard?
I really want to add these drivers to my mk2 (I'm getting the mk2.5) but obviously having some of the mk3 features would be awesome)
Great video and makes complete sense to me. I’m in the process of switching to TMC2130s. Mine have solder mask where the heat sink should go. Do I just scratch it off?
Hello Thomas :) Nice Video
i Have TMC2130 SPI i Can Adjust Voltage so i can Using 2 Motor Z Axie on One Driver ?
Good video as always. Just wish they came a little more frequently. Always look forward to your videos.
Hello, nice video and i made with this everthing. but do i have to use the endstop pins additionally or do i have to decide on which axis i want to use this feature of the 2130 so maybe only on x, y and use them only there?
Hi, thanks for the great video, I just ordered the drivers. When you place the drivers (7:39), I see no jumpers underneath on the RAMPS. When you program (13:40) I read 16 microsteps in your firmware. Doesn’t no jumpers mean no microstepping? And with the 256 stepping of the 2130, do we need 16th microstepping on the RAMPS? Thanks!
Is there any benefits using the TMC2130 over TMC2100 if i don't plan to use the UART interface? i see it has features such as CoolStep ,stallGuard and dcStep that the TMC2100 is missing, but they might be useless anyway without the UART connection? Great video btw!
how would this work on a corexy?
I assume that the auto home would not work, but marlin doesn't give an error when compiling for it
Hey! Thanks for the awesome video! How can I change the SPI pins that collide with the lcd ones? I'm an a RAMPS
Wow your visual quality really increased, weiterso ;)
Since theirs a couple of people asking about the TMC 2208's I'll talk about them briefly. First off, yes they do have Stealthchop2, but i'm afraid I have no way of comparing it to the 2130 version, i'm running a large (300mmx300mmx350mm) printer on them using some very beefy 0.9degree steppers.
They are virtually silent, I have to check its running sometime and i'm usually sat 3 feet away!
This is on a RADDS board running Reprapfirmware 1.19 using a 24v power supply which is pretty esoteric as far as configs go...
Configuration is very different, you can use them as direct drop in replacements for the A4988's and they just work, however to adjust them you need to use a serial interface, theres no SPI support on these, and currently Marlin does not support this method. I built an programming board to do this, since my Z axis is very heavy (large alu plate on a openbuilds frame) and stealthchop wasn;t strong enough for me. There's a desktop app for this which I used to switch the board for my Z axis into Spreadcycle, the noise is irreverent since the x axis doesn't go very fast.
Be aware the serial pins are not connected at first you need to connect a solder jumper on the underside of the board, which can be fiddly (especially if like me you accidentally solder the pins on first! I'll try and answer any questions, but I would say if your not sure and using Marlin, get the 2130's since you'll get all the features Tom talks about. If your not using Marlin, its a hard choice since i'm not sure on the status on the TMC support in other firmwares. For me they are super quiet and awesome, but my hardware is a bit off the norm!
So you run in stealthChop2 with no missed steps? From the datasheet, it seems you can just leave them in standalone mode and adjust current with trimpot, no need to program with the UART interface.
Hi Jamie, Yes that's right, the XY and E are doing exactly that, however the Z axis did need to be changed to Spreadcycle which you can only do via the serial programming.
Hi npgoalkeeper_ With the 2208's no firmware i'm aware of supports all the features on RADDS, Reprapfirmware itself runs fine but lacking the networking features, so if it ever supports the serial interface and featureset in theory the board would be fine, however RADDS is a bit of an edge case so its hard to tell what will happen. the Reprapfirmware guys do have a good chunk of the TMC features working on the Duet Boards, but they use the 2660 series drivers i'm not sure how different they are to 2130's or 2208's so I can't recommend picking up the RADDS if you want more than basic features with the TMC stepper drivers. I think its totally possible as long as the firmware support it, but RADDS is a 32bit board so the standard Marlin doesn't work on it.
Thanks for the info on the 2208. Very helpful.
Now, Marlin 1.1.8 support 2208, have you tried this version ? i am waiting mks version of 2208 from aliexpress :)
I bought 12 of those drivers yesterday!
Hi Tom,
happy new year! :) Do you have an idea for setting up the current on a smoothieware-based board? I'm using the Re-Arm with a Ramps-Board.
Don't panic, choose trinamic!
Thanks Tom for the video. I have an Azteeg X3 Pro 8-driver chip board, and I'm struggling to figure out how to employ your pin-out for the TMC2130 to work on my board. I have 4 new 2130 and 4 new 2100 TMC chips. I plan to install the 2130 for X, Y, Z1 Z2 and the 2100 will handle the extruder motors. Any suggestions?
Awesome guide!I am thinking of upgrading to these drivers.
They run smoother so you should get better prints right?It would be nice if you also demonstrated print quality comparison between the two drivers.
If noise wasn't a problem would you recommend them?
Thanks :)
Great in depth video as usual from you, wish you had a version showing it being done for some of us who can't get our nerd on quit right ;- )
The amount of people in the comment section that can't take a joke is amazing... smh
Hello, TH-cam comment section!
One of the most-asked questions here is "will this work with boards like the RAMBo (mini) that have integrated drivers?" - short answer: Yes!
The driver's step/dir/enable signals are typically also available on a header for each axis - connect those signals to the pins on your new driver (and plug your motor into the new driver) and you're in business. Works for both replacing blown drivers and for upgrading to something nicer!
Thomas Sanladerer will you post short video how to do it?
Thanks Thomas.
What about other boards with integrated drivers? like the Tarantula MKS v1.4?
Not without some annoying and fragile hackery.
A lot of people (Me included) want to add this to the Prusa i3 MK2, as a decent amount of viewers do own an i3 MK2, would you be willing to show us how to do it (and maybe comment on the MK2.5 Upgrade as well as some of us (Myself included) have already ordered it. :) Keep up the great work Thomas! Been a fan for ages. Thank you very much!
will it work/be beneficial on a delta
Great video! But do you have tips or a guide on making it work with the lcd display?
So awesome Tom, so awesome.
For those of us that already have TL smoothers installed, do you recommend removing them when upgrading to these drivers? Or no harm done if left installed?
Nice video, looking forward to the follow up, thanks.
Nice :) But I don't get how the motors could run even more silent with stealthchop than with spreadcycle. I'm running one of my printers with TMC2100 and spreadcycle and there is no motor whine or anything. All I hear are the bearings..?
depends on speed and motor current it will be louder. stealthchop is definitely quieter than spreadcycle in that regard. Also spreadcycle has motor whine at 12v... at least for me it did. 24v did the trick.
digibluh Maybe I‘m just lucky🤭 I‘m 23 so I should still be able to hear the full audible spectrum 😅
digibluh: this depends on the voltage of the motors used....
for the tmc drivers the supply voltage should be typically 3 to 4 times the motor voltage...
So 3 to 4 volt motors should run with a 12v supply. 5 to 8 volt motors with 24v supply.
NOTE that if you are using 2 Z-motors in series these motors should be 3 to 4 volt types and the x and y motors should be 5 to 8 volt types and you should use a 24v supply !
That sweater makes my eyes DANCE! :D Great Video Brother) 10/10
Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?
Yes, Tom. Please give us that lcd instruction!
You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.
You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.
I see you use Z- endstop pin. So, can this be used a a z-probe?
Thomas, I need your advice.
Im going to run a ramps 1.4 board and some larger nema17 steppers (rated 2A) for my DIY printer. Will this TMC2130 driver suffice? or do you think I should go with a better driver/control board overall?
Cheers!
When set to spread cycle is it still quieter than the old drivers? I am thinking of putting these on my Sienci Mill One. would you imagine there would be anything different setting that up compared to what you showed for the 3d printer?
I love my dolly printer. I have 10 printers and very often my dolly is my go to for quick prints.
I'm curious if you set the options in software does the board maintain that setting after power off/on? I'm not using a 3D printer. Instead using it on a CNC machine. I'd have to use and Arduino to set the options up. But if I can set them once and they hold the setting that would work.
Thanks for another great video.
Do you think you will eventually do a Full DIY I3 Mk3?
Nice Video Guide! I did this update to my AM8 with ramps 1.4. Its working... ok... With stealthchop i had layershifts and so i reduced my acceleration. But spreadcycle (also when doing sensorless homing) isn't working with my printer. there is such an unpleasant chirping coming from the stepper motors. Is there any way to fix that?
Hi Tom
I am looking at ordering there drivers for my anycubic kossel. Do you think the firmware will work for a delta? I was thinking more of the sensorless homing as there is only a X and Y option there. Can I just add the Z option do you think?
Regards
Stephen
Hello Thomas I followed your video and installed the TMC2130 on my Tevo Tornado and everything work out without any problems Great Video so I added a filament sensor while I had it apart and its working as well but is there any way of turning off that Buzzer/speaker that go off when Filament runs out I hate noise and if I'm not around and it goes off the wife will have me leave as it won't take much as she said shes a print widow already only my third printer starting six months ago
That is an amazing video! Do you know how this drivers will work with Delta printer?
Apart from affecting the noise and making the printer smart, how do the TMCs affect the quality of the prints? I'm looking to upgrade the standard ender 3 board to an MKS with TMCs in it but I was wondering if the quality of the prints would also improve.
Hello Thomas,
What about dampers to reduce noise ? Will it impact printing quality ? Any drawback ?
I just finished adding these to my Original Prusa i3 Mk2, following this guide. I had to swap the Mini Rambo board out for one that supports removable drivers - I went with a generic MKS Gen 1.4. Since the Original i3 Mk2 has an LCD, I changed the CS pins to use the board's servo pins (which I don't use): 11, 6, 5, and 4. I had to reconfigure vanilla Marlin from scratch, since the Prusa fork of Marlin is so far out of sync with vanilla, it doesn't support the 2130s (except in the Mk3 fork of course, which would have been even more work to back-port). Re-configuring vanilla Marlin from scratch for the original i3, but with a MKS Gen board ended up being the hardest part of the whole process. Once I got Marlin working using A4988's I had laying around, the rest was relatively easy. The whole process took me about 1.5 days. With a printer that has a vanilla Marlin config already, like an Anet or Creality, it probably only would have been 1/2 day. My printer went from 75 dB max during printing (as measured by an app on my phone) to 60 dB. Wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks for the awesome video, Tom!
Thomas, was this example on 12v? Also could you have a 12v setup with 2560/1.4 and run 24v or higher to the vmot and ground for the drivers only or would this affect the ability to control all the features through FW?
Tom, do you have any experience with TMC2600 that DUET board has? Do they have the same functionality of detecting skipped steps etc?
damn... this is super cool!
After 3 months of using TMC2130's on my x and y axis, I removed them both today and refitted the original 4988 drivers, heres why. With the 2130s fitted I found that yes they ran very quiet, but they ran very hot, so hot that you must provide extra active cooling ( thats more fan noise). I found that I had to turn the print speed down quite a lot, plus the accel by a substantial amount too. I also noticed that both my X and Y motors ran a lot hotter (too hot to hold my hand on) even though they were running at a slower print speed. My printing was also unreliable as it often failed during the print with missed steps and layer shift all due to the 2130 drivers overheating. So, overall the TMC2130 drivers are nice and quiet, but if you want reliable prints every time, and at a faster speed, then I recommend to stick with the 4988 drivers and just get used to the musical noise!
What drivers do you think are best for 32bit board? I heard ST820' are the way, but I want to make sure.
Did you make the video on configuring your other board for these drivers? Like the MKS Gen 1.4 ? I have 2 different kinds of displays I can use like the 2004 LCD and the MKS TFT 2.8 and I would like to be able to used at least one of these.
Here is a bunch of questions
is the bed auto leveling is now working with the TMC2130 ?
can you have 2 more pins up to give the driver more juice ?
Thank you very much Tom. The video was very informative. I just wanted to know if the same will work on arduino Due + RADDS, because i was thinking to upgrade to 32-bit. Also, i would be very happy to see a video from you on upgrading from RAMPS to RADDS , because a lot of people say it gives very good quality prints. And, one last thing, what if i want to run some beefy 20Kgcm steppers with the Trinamic goodness (planning to use those to avoid step loss issues).
Hi Tom, just going to do this on my ramps but how do you move the pin please ?
thanks you
Hi Thomas! I was wondering if you ever made that "other video" about changing the pin assignments. I didn't see it in your video listing. I am trying to install TMC2130's on my MKS Gen 1.4 board and the pin assignments listed as being on the Aux block for the RAMPS are on the LCD block on the MKS. I have completely open Aux 1, 2 and 3 blocks but the pins are different. Trying to figure out where to put everything without sacrificing the LCD.
Great Video, Thomas. You're connecting Z- Diagnosis pin to Z-Min. How to set this up with an inductive probe? Or are you using the Z-Diagnosis pin for autoleveling rather than an inductive probe?
Do I need to use the jumpers on the ramps under the stepper drivers?
Hi Tom!
I'm about to ditch the problematic Melzi board in my original Maker Select and it seems the Arduino Mega + RAMPS configuration is the goto. You mention in this video that it's possibly the worst combination possible, but it's what everyone uses.
My question is: What would you suggest in my situation? I have a CR-10 on its way so my i3 can have downtime. My goal is to make this printer bulletproof reliable and I'm happy to get my hands dirty.
Would love your input and expertise.
Tom, thanks for video and all information your share with the community. I am in Brazil and I have a CR 10. Also I am building a 3D Printer from scratch - a cr10 clone. I am installing MKS-Gen 1.4 with TMC 2130 drivers on it. What are some other videos you recommend me to guide me in a full configuration of my build. Thanks a lot.
Hey, are you saying you are the master of all us subscribers?
0calvin he is saying we are his slaves
There are some words in International English that are keep being prohibited "over-the-pond" (U.S.of A.) . Thomas is just being oddly-politically-correct.
Ski animal - yes, I got that. I was joking as well.
There is a saying in Russia, that goes something like this: "There is a joke in every joke". I do hope that it amuses You.