Slice Engineering C-E Copperhead Heat Break Installation on Stock Creality Ender 3 V2 MK8 Hotend
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2022
- Step by step guide to installing the Slice Engineering bi-metal Copperhead heat break.
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Slice Engineering heat break that fits the stock Creality MK8 hotends - www.sliceengineering.com/coll...
.STL files Spacer & Cut Jig - drive.google.com/file/d/16Q7P...
The SUNLU Filament I use (link gets you 10% off everything)- www.sunlu.com/products/sunlu-...
Ultimate Ender 3 V2 build parts:
Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF
Upgrades:
Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd
Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3HF4DIF
Micro Swiss all-metal hot end - amzn.to/3sJbN9p
Micro Swiss Dual Gear Extruder - amzn.to/3pxcOAs
350 Degree 24 Volt 50W Heater Cartridge - amzn.to/3aELrwo
Ender 3 V2 Anti Backlash Nut with Lead Screw Support - amzn.to/3opukWR
Bearing Set - amzn.to/3ay5sVF
Voltage Converters (Buck) - amzn.to/2YK5pUw
G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video:
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
• Ender 3 V2 Near Silent...
3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I...
Ender 3 V2 Jyers Custom Firmware - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
Detailed parts & Jyers firmware install video - • Ender 3 V2 Assembly, U...
Thank you for watching! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Hi Victor, just found this video. Your videos are outstanding. We are learning...
So probably will do the mods to the hotend. Thank you
Hi Larry, Thank you for your encouragement, I enjoy sharing things that I feel would be valuable to help save time and frustration.
Oh BTW this heat break isn't as easy to damage while installing like the Slice Engineering version and much more economical.
amzn.to/3jlzinN
Excellent info and demonstration. Thanks for taking the time to show this.
Hello Geezer, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Today I installed my second part cooling fan and my new heartbreak. It’s awesome I can go down to 1mm retraction with a Bowden extruder 😀😀😀
Hello Markus, Great job getting it all put together. The Slice Engineering heat break is a little pricy but one of the best upgrades for a trouble free hotend that can print pretty much whatever material you want.
Best of luck with your prints!
@@vbared If you compare it to the micro Swiss hotend it’s pretty cheap imo.
@@markuss1844 Yes, I agree 100% with you. I'll have to play around with a retraction tower to see which one looks best currently running 5mm at 25mm/s.
I've had good success with the aliexpress dual material metal heatbreaks so far. I got the ones with the copper only on the heatsink side and stainless or titanium or whatever on the throat and threads.
Hello TheAnoniemo, Thank you for commenting and source name. I was hesitant to try one but I bet for the money it would have been worth it. I'll have to order one to test it. Can you provide a link to the one you are using? I've found that machining seems to be the key part.
Best of luck with your mods!
I think I saw on Slice utube, to use some thermal paste on the block heater and thermistor whe reassembling, sounds good to me. Thanks for all your videos!
Hello Harold, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I used standard CPU thermal paste, since the areas I was applying it to are on the cold side of the heat break. The Silce Engineering paste solidifies so if you are assembling one of their hot ends the paste is what holds their heater cartridge and thermistor in an place.
Best of luck with your mods!
thanks for your sharing
Hello Robby, Thank you for commenting. I'm hope you found value for your viewing time.
Hi Victor, I finally had the time to install the Slice Heat Break Tube and it looks great and I hope it prints that good as well. I followed Slice Engineering's on site instructions for installing the tube which screws it in a little deeper in the heat block. When I torqued the Creality nozzle in I noticed the nozzle extended out about 1.5mm more. This had a negative impact regarding the homing the Z axis because the nozzle was lower that the CR Touch sensor. I only noticed it when I was doing the Z-Offset calibration and notice the offset value was positive.
Thank you for the conversation and verifying that the offset number is always negative. I installed two 1.00 mm shims between the CR Touch probe and it's mounting bracket. That lowered the probe by a mm and resulted in a negative 0.92 Z Offset value. I looked for your CR Touch STL bracket file but have not been successful as of yet.
Today I will be printing the calibration squares for the final tweaks to the Z Offset value. Thank You again for the squares file as I believe that is the only way to truly calibrate the Z Offset and the talent for teaching that you have too.
Doug
Hi Doug, Always a great conversation with you. Great job getting things put back together and resolving the positive z-offset issue. Shimming it was a good solution to get your printer going again to print the new CR-Touch bracket to raise it 2mm. What trouble are you having printing the bracket, maybe I can help.
Yeah, I hear you. It perplexes me why Creality and much of the community uses a sheet of paper for final leveling instead of and actual series of prints to dial it in.
We'll talk again soon friend.
@@vbared Hi Victor, yes great dialog is a treasure to have for sure. I'm not having an issue printing the bracket, well in a way maybe, my issue is finding the STL print file. I'm still looking, CRS disease you know.
Doug
Hi Victor, This looks like the best modification for the MK8 hot end yet. I did the modification from the" Ender 3 V2 Hot end Fix " and it is working great but this looks like the way to go for higher temperature materials. I have ordered the Slice Engineering Heat Break Tube, $ ouch, and will install it with the 14mm bowden tube and centering cone insert. That addition is perfect as it adds compression tightening for the pneumatic fitting and saves bowden tubing, nice bonus.
I'm going to use the copper heat sink compound, I found at BD Hardware House on eBay, on the Heat Break tube and will insert some in the heat sink screw holes prior to inserting the screws.
I feel that during the assembly of the hot end I will tighten the grub screw last as I don't want to stress the Heat Break Tube while tightening the two Heat Block screws. Oh and that torque tool is a nice print and a great tool.
Once again Victor you have shown us your talent for teaching and I want to thank you again for sharing you knowledge and experience with all of us.
Doug
Hi Doug, Thank you for your kindness, I appreciate it very much. The Slice Engineering heat break is pricey but keeping all that's great about the MK8 hotend and ditching the weaknesses has made it worth the cost for me. I received the copper thermal paste and other goodies you send, thank you. Now I have to come up with some project to use them in. Great point with the Slice Engineering heat break assembly sequence. It makes more sense doing it that way.
Best of luck with your build!
@@vbared Tweezle the squirrel said Hi.
Hello Victor, thanks for your great videos.
Since I got myself an Ender 3 v2 for my 70th birthday a year ago, I really enjoy it. Fun and frustration go hand in hand. ;-). I bought the Slice Engineering Copperhead Heat Break
and will install it in my original Creality print head. Your video is a good guide. My English isn't that good and that's why I don't always understand everything 100 percent. In the video you show a small black self-printed ring. I understand that it prevents the Capricon from moving. My question, where can I get the STL file and what material do I have to use. Thanks for an answer and greetings from Cologne Nippes in Germany. Kalle
Hallo Karl, vielen Dank für den Kommentar und die freundlichen Worte. Ich bin froh, dass Sie wert für Ihre Betrachtungszeit gefunden haben. Wenn Sie Fragen zu einem meiner Videos haben, fragen Sie einfach und ich werde mein Bestes tun, um Ihnen zu helfen. Ich tue mein Bestes, um die Links zu den Dateien, die ich verwende, in die Videobeschreibung aufzunehmen und habe sie auch unten für Ihre Bequemlichkeit aufgenommen.
drive.google.com/file/d/16Q7PtAHk0wbpGDUa51kuqG9hQKm3oc1i/view?usp=sharing
Viel Glück mit Ihren Projekten!
where can I get the 'centering' cone for the Borden tube? Also were to get your bed leveling calibration g-code squares? thanks, you are great at the camera work & narrative! roy
Hello Roy, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. The link below has my calibration parts.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17kYruF97OZhwFcvqT8F4ABPatpyA9gP-
Best of luck with your mods!
I made one. I posted the link.
Thingiverse 5479588
I have been building and modding MK8's for about 3 years now, I tap the tapered 10mm thread straight so I can fit a compression fitting and fit a bi metalic throat, I have used the slice engineering heatbreak but have also used the Haldis and Biqu heatbreaks and they work just as good and are much cheaper, I have not had to change the compression fittings since I fitted them over 26 months ago and in the first 12 months my friend had gone through 4 or 5 pneumatic fittings before I modded his MK8, I have also done the Luke Hatfield Bowden mod which also worked well, I have also now sourced some MK8 hotends that are straight tapped already saving me the job of tapping them, I also run them with a HeroMe Gen5 with a silent 4010 and a single 5015 with dual duct.
I have not used boron paste and would definitely not use it on the block screws as why would you want to introduce more heat to the heatsink from the block?
Hello Andrew, Thank you for commenting and sharing how you are building reliable MK8s. I agree with you, the pneumatic fittings are terrible. I use the thermal paste on the heat break sleeve that slides into the heatsink, the ends of the screws that thread into heat sink side, and the nozzle threads only. I run Noctua 4010s on my hotends and their air flow is a bit less than the loud stock Creality fans. The thermal paste eliminates the heat creep issues I was running into after about 100 hours of back to back printing. Like your custom MK8s mine haven't needed any service since doing the mods.
Best of luck with your projects!
Nice video do u have a dual axis video for the ender3v2
Hello Charles, Thank you for commenting and kind word. The Ender 3 V2 gantry is pretty short so I haven't had the need to install a dual z-rod system. My gantry hasn't sagged on the non-z-rod side as of yet.
Best of luck with your build!
Hi Victor great video … I bought the same cheap heat break that you tried first … I’m not having problems loading the filament but I’ve been having a lot of cloggings with TPU … and I don’t know if the thermal paste will fix that … any advice? … PLA works great at 200 … but with TPU I’m been printing at 230 to avoid clogs but the quality of the prints are terrible and some times the clogs starts to appear and the extruder jumps … hope you have some advice for this problem
Hello Darwin, Thank you for commenting and kindness. The thermal paste is extremely important to transfer any heat away from the heat break more efficiently. I'm unsure if it will resolve the TPU problem but it's something I would try before changing anything else. Under extrusion, wrong retraction or printing to close to the build plate would make your prints look bad.
Best of luck with your mods!
I appreciate this video! Do you have print setting recommendations for the ptfe guide and the insert? I'm just printing them at .2mm and in PLA with the insert at 100% infill and the cutting guide at 10% gyroid. Do you think they need to be more accurate that that and is that sufficient strength for the guide?
Hello OKniep Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Yes, printing it out of PLA is OK. The temps at the top of the heatsink won't get anywhere close to the melting point of that material. The guide is a small part so it your wall are set to about 4 it should be rigid enough. If you find that the PTFE tube fits too tight or not at all then raise your z-offset .01 at a time until it fits properly.
Best of luck with your mods!
Try my spacer that I made on Tinkercad. It’s fit every time except when I made them with a different filament. I went to horizontal expansion and typed -0.05 and it fit. But. It’s fit every Capricorn except when I made the spacer with a specific filament. It was a little Loose. I be cut a short piece to make it like the original hot end fix even though I have the copperhead in. I had to cut several till I got that right. No jig for that 5479588
Hi Doug, Thank you for designing the part, making it available and horizontal expansion tip. I'll definitely check it out. Enjoy your day!
@@vbared I need to recheck cura to make sure I said the right adjustment. But it lets you make a hole bigger or smaller. I think I am not going to use the hot end fix with the copperhead though. Can’t remember if it was you who uses it or not.
@@dugy40 It was me but, it doesn't make a difference with the Copperhead. I've tried it both ways and both work fine.
@@vbared have you happened to download my spacer?
I just installed this on my ender 3 v2 but issue i am having is on the hotend is longer than it was withthe stock heat break. So now the nozzle crashes into the bed. I did the bed leveling and changed my z off set.
Hi Brandon, Thank you for commenting. I had a similar issue after changing out my nozzle. Do have some small thin washers or even a few layes of masking tape between the plug side of the probe and the bracket it fastens can work as a shim. I'll send you an STL file of a bracket that I designed that moves the bracket down a bit so it can trigger before the nozzle touches the bed.
Link to the modified CR-Touch bracket - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1FDEiwMfjVLcHw4iTkgUzWAQEMfh2js_K
@@vbared Thank you so much for getting back to me. I actually used four small washers inbetween the cr touch and the the bracket( 2 on each side). That seemed to do the trick. Now it seems that the nozzle is bumping into the print. I have the option to avoid printed objects. Wonder if i will have to turn on z hop now. You should share this bracket with everyone.
@@LargeKid Anytime, buddy, you're right, I should make a video about it and link the file. The stock Creality bracket doesn't give enough wiggle room.
Print up the file I linked and you should be good.
Best of luck with your mods :)
Will you need to adjust the z height with the slice heatbreak?
Hello Glen, Yes, whenever you take apart hotend parts you will always need to re adjust your z-offset. On my Ender 3 V2 I had to remix the CR-Touch bracket to move the probe down by 2mm. The nozzle that came with my red MK8 in the video is a little longer than the nozzles that come with the stock Ender 3 V2 hotend so my probe wasn't triggering early enough. I'll post a video soon on it.
Best of luck with your mods!
V6 heatsink has much more fin area to dissipate heat and even Lite 6 (PTFE all the way to the nozzle) works very well. In good designs cooling air is directed to flow through the heatsink, so lesser fan is enough (like that 30mm fan silenced down).
Creality hotend has neither of those 🧐
I'm tempted to get Slice Engineering heatbreak in case it could lengthen melting zone and improve maximum flow over mostly-PTFE stock hotend... Or CHT nozzle. Or both :D
Hello Kimmo, Thank you for commenting. I agree with you 100% the E3D V6 all metal design is superior to the MK8. I have 3 machines 2 Ender 3 V2s and one CR10S Pro V2. One Ender 3 V2 has the E3D V6 all metal hotend, The other Ender 3 V2 has a red MK8 with the Slice Engineering heat break, and CR10S Pro V2 has the Micro Swiss all metal hotend. The E3D Ender has zero hotend issues. What solved the heat creep for me on both the bowden tube MK8 and now the Slice Engineering version was the addition of the thermal paste to the heat break sleeve and the two support screw threads that go into the heatsink. If you are running a bowden MK8 check out this video on how to create a strong bowden to nozzle seal that won't fail. I didn't learn about the thermal paste until after I made this video so make sure you add the thermal paste to the stock stainless sleeve like I did in this video to the Slice Engineering one and you won't have any issues with heat creep or leaks.
th-cam.com/video/AEdca_-Nqys/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
Thanks @@vbared Just switched to Slice Engineering heatbreak + printed direct drive. No idea of flow rate yet. With stock heatbreak 0.4mm CHT was not better than Creality nozzle 🤨
@@kimmotoivanen Thank you for the info on the CHT. I haven't used one, and like the Creality nozzle as well. Let me know how it flows with the Bondtech drive.
You could have got a 1.9-2.0mm reamer and enlarged the hole in the heat break. In fact, it looks like it almost makes it through all the way, so maybe just deburring the end in the heat sink would be enough.
Hi Kenneth, Thank you for commenting suggestion of how to fix the budget titanium heat break I picked up. I still have them so for sure I'm going to try and fix them.
Best of luck with your projects!
Forgive me if i am wrong but by applying thermal paste to the screw threads you are promoting heat transfer from the heat block to the heatsink correct? increasing the risk of heatcreap? I also always assumes the heartbreak was inserted into the heatsink all the way up to the skinny section?
Hello glenncol, Thank you for commenting. The Thermal paste for the screws should only be on the end of the threads that screw into the heatsink. Those screws will heat up because they are in contact with the heat block regardless. The heatsinks job is to absorb it and fan cools it down so the filament above the melt zone stays solid. Stainless steel doesn't conduct heat efficiently so if you look at the screw in a thermal camera the half of the screw that is in the heat block is hot and the end that screws into the heatsink will be much cooler. I wanted the cooler end to be as cool as possible by adding the thermal paste on the cool side. My 2 Ender 3 V2s that I use in my small print farm haven't had any hotend maintenance since I posted these videos. Before I made these changes I was taking apart the hotends every 100 hours of printing because of under extrusion due to heat creek. A early sign of under extrusion will be clicking from the extruder gear followed by more clicking and then gaps in your prints.
Yes, the heat break sleeve is inserted all the way inside and butt up against the transition point in the heatsink. In the video it may seem like it's sticking out but it's all the way in as far as it can go. The Slice Engineering heat break is a bit longer than the stock one.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Sorrry mate did not mean to question you, i was more questioning my understanding, Awesome stuff, you have made it very easy to follow
@@glenncol My apologies, Glenncol, if my response came across the wrong way, it wasn't meant to. Questions, thoughts and opinions are how we all learned from each other. What works for me may not always work for others. No offense was taken on my part so no worries.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Cheers mate, look forward to more of your vids
@@vbared I have a different take about putting thermal paste on the screws, even if only on the end going into the heatsink.
Whether the screws get hotter or not, they don't affect the extrusion as they are nowhere near the filament.
If anything, any heat that transfers to the screws from the heat block will heat up the heatsink more if there's better heat transfer between the screws and the heatsink.
Probably not very significant either way though.
DOES RETRACTION CHANGE WHEN INSTALLING THE COPPERHEAD?
Hi Douglas, Thank you for commenting. Printing black SUNLU PETG my retraction distance is 2 and speed is 30mm/s using the Slice Engineering bi-metal heat break. I would run the standard calibration parts and scripts in CURA to find the best combination for your particular filament. Check out this video I made on it.
th-cam.com/video/0SZjN1BOS1Y/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared I run 3@40 now on my standard hotend. Works for most filaments.
@@dugy40 That's perfect!
Should I coat inside with canola oil and let it burn off. Season it?
@@dugy40 Hi Douglas, I don't have any experience with oil coatings inside of the heat break. I haven't had any issues with filament seizing up inside of the heat break of a properly assembled hotend.
Hi, thanks for the vid, but I still don't understand the thermal paste. You want as less as possible heat transfer from the heatblock to the "cool side". Adding thermal paste, you encourage the heat transfer from the heatblock, through the bolts into the cooling block. I don't see this is a good thing...
Hello Amazon62, Thank you for commenting. The heat break and bolts will heat up regardless since they are in contact with the heat block. The heatsink size and shape combined with a fan are designed to cool any heat coming from the heat break and bolts. The thermal paste applied to the areas that make contact with the heatsink aids in thermal conductivity and allows me to run the super quiet Noctua fans. Creality's choice to use a sleeve instead of threads on the heatsink side of the heat break means that the only two thermal conductivity points comes from the backside of the heat break being pressed against backside of the heatsink by the grub screw and the grub screw. The rest of the heat break will have air gaps causing the heat break temps to slowly rise if using a Noctua fan. To fix the poor thermal conductivity Creality uses a higher airflow fan which is very noisy. I haven't had to service my bowden, or Slice Engineering upgraded stock hotends since applying the fixes mentioned in this video to my machines that run constantly for weeks and hardly notice they are running. Before these fixes I was servicing my hot ends running Noctua fans after every 100 hours of printing due to heat creep causing under extrusion. Heat creep isn't something you'll experience if on the stock Creality heatsink fan or unless you're running prints for days using a Noctua heatsink fan.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks for the explanation. I also installed a noctua fan without the paste and it runs fine with the stock ender hotend modified with tube insert. But now I switched to Mico Swiss and it is terrible. So I'm going back to stock and I'm thinking to buy a e3d Voron later... one question if I may: what do you think about the airflow direction? I tend to place the fan sucking air through the heatsink instead of blowing. I helped designing heat exchangers and I learned that the air distribution is much better (more "air surface") that way.
@@Volvoamazon62 Hi Amazon62, I've thought about turning the fan around and trying it. I imagine that Creality did for aesthetics to not have to deal with removing the fan sticker and rerouting its wire. BTW what trouble did you have with the Micro Swiss?
@@vbared In general it would be better to suck the air out, but the problem with the ender (and maybe other) is that there is no open space behind the heatsink. The air will be drawn from underneath the hot zone instead. So I guess blowing is best for this situation.
Problem with the MS was that it clogged the whole time after one layer. Causing the extruder to slip. Tried different things such as better fan, thermal paste. I'm going to wait for the e3d revo cr... Thanks for your time! BTW, my stock mk hotend runs like a charm with the mods you showed!
@@Volvoamazon62 Hi Amazon62, What retraction distance and speed were you using with the Micro Swiss all metal hotend?
Why do you put thermal past on the threads of the two screws???
Regarding heat creep you want to have the thermal contact of the screws to be as bad as possible and NOT put on any thermal past to have better thermal contact. That's why some people even advise to take them out (which is mechanically a problem). There should be as less possibility to dissipate heat through the cooler block for the screws. I'd highly advise not to to that as it does not make sense at all.
Hello HHHarry09, Thank you for commenting. The thermal paste for the side screws should only be put on the threads that enter the heatsink and not on the parts that go through the heat block. The stainless steel screws do soak up heat from the heat block regardless so getting that heat moved into the heatsink where it can be cooled by the fan reduces the heat of that screw where it's closest to the heatsink. I run a small print farm and adding the thermal paste in the way I described in the video has resulted in trouble-free operation for me since. I share in my videos what works for me in the hopes that viewers can improve the reliability and performance of their printers.
Best of luck with your mods!
MAKES SENSE TO ME!!! YOU JUST WANNA FLEX. BRAIN OUT DOES BRAWN
Heat block screws shouldn't have thermal paste. You dont want those screws to transfer Heat from the block the the Heat sink
Hello Mrbortxx, Thank you for commenting and suggestion. I agree 100% with what your saying you don't want any of the thermals paste on the threads that pass through the heat block. I only used thermal paste after the screw was already through the heat block and added it to the tip only before screwing it to the heatsink. That way the heat that will build up in the screw regardless will dissipate most efficiently into the heatsink.
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared That's not what MrBortxx is saying. What he is saying is that whatever heat makes it to the screws from the heat block, you want to minimize what gets to the heatsink, not improve it. The screws have no factor in keeping the filament cool, unless you're increasing the temperature of the heatsink from the screws.
However the difference in temperature to the heatsink with or without thermal paste is probably insignifcant.
@@danman32 Hi Daniel, Thank you for commenting. I understand what you're saying and I thought the same thing at first but those threaded screws are in the heat sink so any heat that is building up should be moved swiftly into the heatsink to be cooled by the fan. I have two machines using the MK8 hotends with Capricorn bowden for over 6 months of continuous printing without any service. I simply share what works best for me and I've tried it both ways. The great thing about this hobby is there are multiple ways of arriving at a similar outcomes.
Best of luck with your mods!
you have to be very careful when installing mine came apart with no effort on screwing it in to the block
very unhappy with mine waste of $40
Hello Paul, A few people have told me this already. Maybe it has something to do with the amount of torque on the two side screws, if too tight they may push the throat up into the sleeve. I'll do a follow-up video when the nylon filament arrives.
Best of luck with your mods!
Do not ever put thermal compbound on these two screws. It improves unnecessary thermal transfer directly from the block to the heatsink. This is undesired and should be kept at minimum. Decreasing the heat transfer between heat block and the cold part is the whole idea behind bi-metal hotend. You are ruining it doing that
Hello Dariusz, Thank you for commenting. You're 100% correct, promoting heat transfer from the heat block to the screws is counter productive. If you review the video carefully you'll notice that the only place on the screws the thermal paste was used are the ends that screws into the heatsink. The side the screws that are touching the heat block don't have and thermal paste. If you look at the screws using a thermal imager the hot side of the screw will be red and the side going into the heatsink will be cooler due to the heat wicking from the heat sink. The thermal paste on the heatsink side promotes more efficient wicking. I would never use the thermal paste on the hot side of the screws.
Best of luck with your mods!