Slice Engineering Copperhead Guide - 3D printing up to 450 degrees
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2020
- My Seckit SK-GO is destined to receive high end 3D printer parts, the latest being this new Copperhead hit end from Slice Engineering. It’s rated for up to 450 degrees C, so I had to purchase some ridiculously expensive PEEK filament to test it properly.
Overall, this is a quality product, but comes at significant expense. It’s really only going to be viable if you have specific requirements such as 3D printing in PEEK or ULTEM. Hopefully I have a print project in the future that can benefit from this.
The Copperhead hot end, PEEK filament and Dimifix adhesive were all purchased with my own money. All opnions expressed are my own.
Purchase the Slice Engineering Copperhead hot end: www.sliceengineering.com/prod...
Select a heat break, hot block and heat sink to suit your printer. You’ll also potentially need a heater cartridge, thermistor, fan, etc depending on what you want to keep from your existing setup.
The PEEK I tested: www.esun3d.net/products/282.html
Purchase Dimifix adhesive stick: www.x3d.com.au/store/product/...
Marlin PID autotune reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303....
RepRap PID tune reference: duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#...
PEEK material reference: tractus3d.com/materials/peek
Models featured in this video:
Calibration cube: www.thingiverse.com/thing:127...
Stepper gear: www.thingiverse.com/thing:292...
Parametric Herringbone Gear Set: www.thingiverse.com/thing:24071
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Get Quality Resins from 3D Printers Online. 5% off storewide for Teaching Tech subscribers [Code: tech5]
3dprintersonline.com.au/
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"the damage wasn't that bad, because it looked like a snowflake"
Wow! You, Sir, are the person with the best coping mechanisms for stress and disappointment I know!
Since I picked an already damaged bed I didn't mind. If it was my normal bed, that would have been a different story.
thats a lot of copium right there
Make sure you put the PEEK in a SUPER drybox! 20% or less it is super hygroscopic. Was doing ventilator prototype parts in PEEK until we've had a failure. Next project is ECMO. Material shrinkage is wonderfully predictable with the DuPont materials.
Damn I can't get mine lower than 25%
@@markthompson5983
Just use an inert gas, it's way easier and rather cheap.
I thought it looked it was boiling off some steam on the manual extrusion test.
Damn, you’d expect for $250 they would at least wind the spool right.
I had to unwind half of it and rewind by hand much tighter.
For that type of filament, the manufacturer expects you to have your own winding mechanism for your uber-expensive printer. This is not a hobby filament you just slap on your Prusa and go.
@@LukasDubeda For that type of money, I'd at least expect them to wind it correctly if my 15$ spool of PLA is found better.
@@LukasDubeda No, thats no excuse. Selling filament on a roll implies the filament is wound with quality. For that price they should wind it with the same quality as Prusament. No professional 3D printing people wind their own filament.
@@LukasDubeda you still need it not to tangle while you're using that expensive winding mechanism though, that's not really an excuse
I wish PEEK was cheaper
that little purge probably cost you 8$ :D this is like the caviar/truffle of 3d printing.
It should get cheaper as 3d printers become more common and ht 3d printers also become more common
It's for the commercial prints usually. So the clients pays for this (in a normal situation).
8$ is nothing compared to the time wasted.
@@henry67278 It certainly will however PEEK is expensive as hell, the kg granulate already costs 41$ directly in China if you take 1000 kg. PA12 is like 4$/kg granulate. And making a filament is also a lot harder in PEEK.
@@henry67278 It still will be an expensive material and harder to use than eg PLA. Even for 1/10th of the current price it is not cheap. I still use normal PLA for most of my prints, PETG when it needs to handle higher temps or is loaded continuously.
I think it is more likely we will see a material with similar properties but at a lower cost and also easier to print.
Some comments on the PEEK extrusion; PEEK and PEI are practically nephews in the same family, your glue stick won't prevent your model from adhering to your bed. Also processing temperatures of both thermoplastics is in the same range, so it's an accident waiting to happen. Might try a glass bed with glue stick thermal expansion after printing should make it easy to release.
Another concern, Both PEI and PEEK are highly hydroscopic, based on your first results you were well prepared or lucky. Best quality printing after drying. Keep up the good work!
In the past we did tooling part experiments using ULTEM, for thermoforming, up to prototyping injection moulding and metal working.
Did I mention inherent flame retardancy of both PEEK and PEI? FR might be a topic to highlight one time, as many makers use printed parts as electronics housings in a domestic environment. Just a thought...
I love your videos, appreciate all the hard work you do, and really respect your mission to help educate and inform people.
I'd love to work with one of these but I've yet to install my Himera after preordering it a year ago. My printers are all in some sort of disrepair and I just don't have the space to work on them so I live vicariously through you, thank you again!
What a timely video! I was just looking at the Mosquito and that's how I found out about the Copperhead, and here we are.
Very fine 400°C video, I love watching you at speed x1.5 you sound more fluent and the vampire smile is tremendous. Thank you Michael 🤩🤩🤩
Aerospace machinist here. I used to machine peek at work quite often. Using 4 axis CNC control setups. It's a very stable material to machine and it's completely electrically isolated. Very expensive though! I have a setup piece in my Machinist toolbox still.
Hi,
Based on my experience PEEK and Ultem stick very good on
>glass applied with glue stick or another best option is to invest in a carbon fibre tile as build plate.
>Keep the bed temperature to 120C and if available chamber temp to 90C. ( you can still print peek without build chamber only upto 50mm height)
>Keep the nozzle temperature to 440C for better layer adhesion.
>Auto bed leveling don't work when printing at high temperatures.
>always print with .6mm or above nozzle for best results.
>First layer height always set to
.35mm or above.
You’re probably going to use this for automotive applications, Michael, this is why I got into 3D printing in the first place. I’m working towards these types of materials. There will come a time when tinkering on an upgrade for my cars I will need something weird and bespoke and a PEEK print will solve it, I’m sure of it. Enjoyed your video on your bespoke air box 👍
Imagine being able to print your own oldschool hotend with PEEK, but then doing an improved version of for example a J-head :)
I used to have a peek hot end on my Solidoodle. This brought back memories.
@@TeachingTech Michael pls pls do it print a hole headsink with peek Mabey for low temp filaments 🤔🤔
My first printer was a Printrbot Simple Beta. That had a refined peek hot end. And overall it was a pos.
@@JasperJanssen The PEEKhotends that I played with also performed quite well. And it's easy to machine! :) Maybe printing it and then further machining it would be an awesome combination to make impossible PEEK heatbreaks with ventilation holes etc.
@@MarinusMakesStuff the hot end was pretty good, it was the rest of that machine that was so incredibly shit. Seriously, blue painters tape on a plywood bed. The plywood construction wasn’t great compared to what we have now (or even the original Prusa Mendel i3, which was happening a few years later IIRC), but that unheated (and tiny) wobbly bed kicked my ass.
Thank you for the heads up. 👍 Definitely only for specialized, specific applications. 😃
Hi Micheal, at work I designed a Peek printer and it works great. To get good quality prints you really need the print volume enclosed and a stable internal temperature of around 250C. We used a hot air gun controlled via a solid-state relay - might make a nice project for you :)
Love when you put your mistakes to, its refreshing!!! good video!!
Haha "Internal torque" I love it when you insert cold jokes in your videos!
Michael, great video on practical application of advanced plastics on what are considered "home/hobby" machines! Nice to see that people are pushing the boundaries of what was previously on available as industrial use only.
I propose you look at using the PEEK for something either very tough (like marine boat parts, or bus/train applications) or needs to be subjected to repeated sterilizations (like medical/dental equipment, surgical tooling, food contact, etc...)
...of course there is always printing a small rocket to launch in LOE....but I digress.
Very good work. PEEK is very interesting and we may look into it our self. We mainly print ABS and adding Nylon to our line soon. But PEEK would be a great addition once our enclosure product hit's the market and takes off to be further explored. PEEK for sure on RC car's will be a great solution for a lot of their Community due to the fact I have see plenty of melted gears due to the heavy acceleration they endure on those parts.
I wish I was aware of this hot end before the donation cycle expired, I would have purchased 3.
Finally! Someone backing up my statements which have almost always instead resulted in insults, reactions filled with rage or over emphasizing the idea that I'm stupid wherever I say or write: "Your hot end and nozzle in addition to your bed will expand at printing temperatures, so turn them up to your intended printing temperature before you level it." Most people have gone out of their way to attack me for saying as much. It's nice to finally have some backing as your video provided me!
Thank you!
I’ve never seen or heard anyone say anything other than to level at temp. You must be dealing with some hills have eyes crazies or sft. You don’t need that kinda negativity in ya life.
@@xtdaniels1988x I certainly don't appreciate such negativity, but on TH-cam and Thingiverse it's a common response by those wanting a feeling of power. It's the action of children and occasionally older adults. It's easily ignored, but I do wish there was something to indicate such text is or is not negative so I could skip over it instead.
Congratulations for your Renault support !
Thanks for this instructive vidéo.
Clone hotend is shiny, so it reflects -> Thermal camera won't work on it.
Great observation! Before we thermal image anything, we paint all the surfaces the same matte black color.
@@SliceEngineering You're better off with a brushed or media blasted surface than matte black, my experience painted surfaces tend to hold heat a lot longer, by reducing air contact from the dissipating surface.
@@falkhen232 Thanks for the suggestion! We do surface prep in advance to make sure adhesion is uniform and that we get repeatable results from one sample to the next. Paint is relatively easy, fast, and cheap to apply to multiple types of parts, making it easier to compare "apples to apples".
@@SliceEngineering Linus tech tips fried a computer by trying to see what would happen if he plastic dipped all the parts. Paint is the same idea. Heat can't escape and air can't contact the parts.
@@nathantoews152 the paint is just for thermal imaging, not for normal operation of the printer.
Super good video! I’m excited to see a project with that material
I am really looking forward for your experiments on 3D printing PEEK. Its a widely used material in High Vacuum applications, as a low temperature substitute of ceramics. If some how this thing works, it has great potential in Fusion and Aerospace application. I am currently using 3D printed ABS (sometimes nylon) components for my plasma experiments and you cant imagine how much PEEK components woulds help me. It may seem expensive for hobby work, but for industry it is pretty cheap substitute compared to ceramics and machined SS. Great work .....!!
As always a fantastic review and quality video content thanks Mike
I noticed you wear Infiniti shirts. I looked for, finally found and had to travel from Phoenix, AZ to Jacksonville, FL to get what I wanted. I got an infiniti Q70S V8 5.6 liter engine at 440hp. It's a little rare as the "S" models are harder to find and the V8 5.6 is also a hard find. Not to mention that I wanted a Black exterior and cream colored interior seat and the 16 speaker system which has speakers built into the headrest. Sorry for the off topic as I found this video to do some research on the Mosquito and similar which I have installed on a Voron 0.1 build with a Bondtech LGX extruder. It's a challenging configuration as I did not find any predesigned fan shrouds for the Bondtech/Mosquito combo but I designed my own that works well. I've just finished the build which was complicated. As you know it's not only the build but it's a firmware install and configure, a printer.cfg file with stepper motor specs, motor direction, etc. Plus it's a Raspberry install with Klipper, Moonraker, and I decided on Mainsail. Then it's a set up on a slicer, I am using the Prusa Slicer instead of my traditional Cura. I haven't gotten my first print yet as just minutes ago I completed the toolhead and fan shroud print. I configured the E-steps by adjusting the printer.cfg file and tested 100mm of measured filament. First print coming soon. You always have great content so thanks.
finally peek ! i think peek is best with heated chamber and kapton tape. also you need to bake the parts afterward to increase strength
Just picked up microswiss to replace an issue stock hot end, this does look much more stylish, but as I print only pla no need for this myself, but very cool to know it's out there and what it can do! Thanks!
Love that smile at the end.
I really like this video! I also made a PEEK 3D printer based on Ender 3, the nozzle is from the Dyze Design. From my experience, the bed temperature does not need to be that high, I typically set to 70 C and use some paste to help PEEK adhere. Also glass build plate seems outperforms PEI sheet, which is very flat and easier to clean after use.
I’m in the process of converting my ender 3 for peek. Do you have an email I can contact you with?
just 5 seconds in, i knew it would become expensive xD
great video! :D enjoy weekend.
Tryed to print peek at an internship. You are very lucky it went so smoothly.
Very lucky.
Probably speaks for the hotend 🤔
On our machines, we use expendable and expensive build sheets for this type of filaments, that can't be used twice. And if you take off the part and it brings the sheet with it, that means that the part is too cool. You have to take off the part when it is roughly 100-200 degrees celcius from the sheet, as it will have a much weaker bond then, and also printing a raft is probably the best idea.
great video again :)
the only thing I´m wondering about, is the use of thermal paste from heatblock to the heatbreak ... I always thought we want to have the most bad heat creep out from of the heater block up to the heatsink as ever possible ? am I wrong ?
I ever used thermal paste from heatblock to nozzle => good, heatbreak to heatsink => great
but never ever from heatblock to the heatbreak
The S.E. online instructions recommend using the paste on the threads as well.
I have been waiting for another vid since the last one.
I've been waiting for this. 😅
PEEK, especially carbon filled PEEK is very wear resistant and so is good for some bearing applications. In such applications, a small amount of material could be very useful.
Thanks,
John
Didn't know Esteban Ocon was into 3D printing.
hahaha
XD, now print a racing-car! and drive a world record!
Danny Ric fan here. In fact my dog is named Ricciardo, and my pevious dog was named Webber.
@@TeachingTech Haha awesome! Can't wait to see Danny in a McLaren next year. I have a very good feeling about it.
I would not use any hardened steel nozzles past 300c as that’s into tempering ranges which will soften the hardness.
Interesting material and hotend. I think I'll pass with those setup costs. Keep up the good work.
The e3d heatsink is shiny. Thermal imaging is the same is regular imaging. Shiny surfaces will reflect the ir light from around them. It's almost certain that the e3d temp was wrong because of this. You need to paint a part of it flat or matte black to get an accurate reading.
Hey Michael, Do you think thermal paste used in the same way, on the heatbreak, nozzle, thermistor and heater would benefit a standard 3d printer and increase reliability / temperature tolerances?
I printet arround 1kg in PEI and PEKK Carbon
Super awesome stuff but it is a must to keep it as dry as possible. Luckily the printer (Minifactory Ultra) had a heated filament chamber that dryed everything to 0% humidity
You PEEKed my interest
+10C Sean to be a common factor. Everyone I know need to boat temps around 10c even in a mosquito.
Your can speed up wrapping with this kind of wrap by "screwing it on" the cables
Just get a few wraps on and then start twisting the wrap.
Have you heard of Dyze hotend and thought about doing a comparisons? I just got mine cooperhead but I also ordered Dyze. Most people haven't heard about that but Tom did a review on it. The 24v 500c sells for about 85 us dollars or the wattercooled version around 124. Very interested in doing some comparison between the 2. I ordered some Polylite PC, pc-fr, pc-pbt. They only print at 270 but I'll try and get more high grade filament.
I have machined quite a bit of peek for marine components, and gripper fingers on robotics that operate in more extreme conditions.
HELLO,
i'm totally new to 3d printing and due to your videos about it i'm assembling one, i don't have all the parts now but ive done testing that it works great using pronterface, the issue i'm having is no display,
display light comes on but nothing afterward and also no sd card detected.msg shown in pronterface
Personally I would use ultem since it's similar and much less expensive, unless the part absolutely needs the extended temperature range peek provides over ultem.
love you videos man. they're way helpful, I am more than grateful for what u do.
Things you can print with your cautiously acquired filament ?
Maybe jewellery 😬
As always, .... love your videos 👍
Mmm, so, I usually think these video's are absolutely great. But not accounting for the different offset, not having the peek dried (which can also cause issues with sticking properly), is a bit surprising. Also, it would've been nice to see more tests with a cheaper filament that doesn't stop you for the cost of it, like CF nylon or something.
He is only human, Vince.
Vision miner company have excellent info on high temp printing and bed issues.
For valid thermal camera comparison the surfaces have to have the same finish. The black anodize will emit a lot more IR and read higher.
A better measurement would be to actually stick a theromcouple down the heat break to the start of the cold zone. Others have done this and shown the Copperheat heat break performs well.
You added thermal paste to heat break ,that why it allow heat transfer so it goes to 75 degree.
That is not how heatbreaks work, the tube is doing all the work.
So which hotend would you recommend for high temps: this, or the microswiss you have on your ender 5? Currently doing an Ender 5 upgrade myself, and I'd like to be able to print both low temp and high temp materials. I haven't committed to a hotend yet, since there's many different options. Thanks!
Peek vs Bridge Nylon!! Maybe do a collaboration with CNC Kitchen for the testing part. (*edit, I was thinking mainly the mechanical properties, as I realize that heat and chemical are right there in the specs)
Moar peek experiments plis. Enclosing, insulating chamber, heating chamber, dealing with heat etc.
I'm Customizing a tronxy X5sa at the moment in serveral steps (right Now at step 2 of 5) to print peek in the end)
The Bad layer adhesion could be because of the open chamber. I read of an Ambiente temp of 100-150 degrees Celsius to print peek without Problems. Therefor I will use a watercooled hotend.
I totally understand, That you don't want to use so much of this filament for testing. But try to use it on a glass Plate. Joel met some guys from a Company which invented a "gluestick" especially for peek.
Oh, the irony of 3D printing PEEK :)
Don't know if I'll try PEEK at some point. Actually, I never had situations where a hi-temp resistance is required. For now, PETG, ABS, PA and PC are plenty enough to me.
Since PEEK is a veeery specialized material, designed for industrial requirements, it might not be for me right now. Yet, who knows ... As hi-temp printers become more and more common, maybe the PEEK price tag may slightly lower and become a bit more affordable ?
Considering the application field of PEEK, you might use it for very specific things. I don't know, maybe parts that would lie a in a hot (or cold) environment and be virtually undestructible. It has to be something useful. No lattice cube or cute Groot here. Engineering parts.
Oh ... and that hotend looks marvelous !
Lol. It's common material in food packaging machines where ie. filling head needs to withstand cip chemicals. It's hilarious to read all space age plastic comments for someone who works with machines 😄
Hi I have 2 Creality CR 10 Max, I would like to modified one of them from 450mm on the X axis to 900mm. Mechanically I have the know how, but my question is can the machine parameter be modified? By the way your channel is awsome.
waiting for mine to come any day now
What brand's fan do they use? I ordered now 4 or 5 pseudo silent ones from different brands. Noctua isnt an option at all due to the lower airflow
PEEK printing is recommended in a heated enclosure with temps around 100 deg Celsius
lets hope the peek prices come down over time, as just purchased a Bondtech LGX Shortcut Mosquito setup for new voron/hypercube hybrid im making, and id love to be able to print some exotics :P
Hi Michael
How does the copperhead compare to the original musquito hotend?
Why is there thermal paste on both ends of the heat break? Isn't the point of the heat break to *prevent* heat transfer from the hot side to the cold side? Seems like thermal paste would be counter productive here.
You can almost print a standard heat block itself with that!
I'm also no expert but have heard other TH-camrs talking about tuning for emicivity with the camera.
That or a piece of tape on metal
do you have a video on how to change the thermistor and hot end settings via pronterface?
You should try peek from filamatrix made here in the states ..iv never had good results with esun peek ,no heated chamber needed for the filamatrix .im using the slice mosquito instead of the copperhead
I guess up until now I thought PEEK needed to be printed in a heated chamber. I haven't seen the previous vids on this SK-GO, do you have it in an enclosure at all?
13:39 Is this filament dry enough? I heard that especially those materials need to be extra dry.§D printing nerd has one video of a convention (? right word?) where one company for technical materials show their drying setup. Which includes a special drying oven and a vacuum drying setup as second step. They then also store the filament under vacuum.
no it's not dry enough
You could print some super close and directed PLA/ABS cooling ducts for super cooling quality
Wow! Teaching Tech rocks! =D
You should also try the TL dragon
you should do a comparison with the dyze high temp hotend
6:56 i didn't hear you say "Click" when your internal torque wrench reached is value ;)
Did the instructions say to put thermal paste on the heat break threads that screw into the hot block? It seems wrong as you don't want heat conducting off the hot block into the heat break.
0 views, 2 likes, 1 (now 2) comments but still the best video
awesome!
Do you know if this can be modified for the Hemera?
Okay what would you recommend for a bed for printing with PEEK.
How does this compare to the volcano ? Does it allow easier printing with larger nozzles
Why thermal compound on the heatbreak threads? I think thats not necessary or correct.
PEEK benchy! Most expensive Benchy printed?
Please do a video comparing the Mosquito and the Copperhead!
Wow, you could print a JHead hot end body with PEEK!
Very Cool!
Would have been nice if you had shown how to do the firmware changes/ pid tune.
Thanks for sharing :-)
Please try 3D printing Solder, may need cooling quick
Why did Slice Engineering make the Mosquito mechanically strong enough to do one handed nozzle changes but the Copper head requires you hold The heat block with a spanner whilst you undo the nozzle with a second spanner?
Sorry, but why no comparisons with the currently popular/similar hotends? Hope for a longer video in the future...
We used to use PEEK in an oil drilling/electronics application where I used to work. Man, that stuff is tough. How do you plan on printing with it without it ruining printer beds?
Borosilicate glass bed
Texturized side
Textured PEI Fine Powder Coated Spring Steel Flex Sheet
@@PRiMETECHAU The glass beds love to chunk with a lot of high temp materials. Carbon fiber plates with high temp epoxy are one of the better solutions.
Is there a recommended surface by the manufacturer for this filament?
I also did the kickstarter on this but wanted to put it on my cr10 s5. Has anyone done that? I want to use the slice heater catridge and thermistor and fan I got that are 12v.s Should I just splcie the cables together? Or try to add molex connectors? Looking for any guide.
How did you clean your nozzle afterwards?
I'm totally can't understand one thing: why you have to apply thermal paste to the heatbreak beacuse it should be as cold as it can and applying an thermal paste to it does this purpose meaningless, isn't it? If you apply that paste to the other side of heatbreak it will help to transfer heat to radiator, but appliyng it to the side where it can get MOAR heat does completly wrong things, so it will cool the hotend making an opposite work to the heater. And also will get more heat from heatblock beacause of thermopaste. PS: English is not my native language.
Just following the instructions.
Maybe they use the paste as a kind of glue. I think in terms of thermal performance, this stuff wouldn't be necessary, but it likely prevents the nozzle and heat break from wandering out.
@@kain0m there is a kind of loctite orange/red color to use on cars manifold bolts, supposed to withstand over 600 degrees Celsius. maybe could be used between hotend and heatbreak as "adhesive sealer"?