Upgrade Creality Ender 3 S1 to a High Temp Hot End
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 มิ.ย. 2022
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Chuck shows you how to upgrade your Creality Ender 3 S1 to an All Metal High-Temperature Hot End on this week's Filament Friday.
Ender 3 S1 Heat Break Kit: amzn.to/3mTTqvY
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Many people who watched are asking for a metal Heat Break for Ender 3, Pro, V2, etc.
I showed that in this video: • High Temperature All M...
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Many are asking for a metal Heat Break for Ender 3, Pro, V2, etc.
I showed that in this video: th-cam.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/w-d-xo.html
@chep what if we replace the PTFE with capricorn? how hot do you think we could print then?
230
@@FilamentFriday when will you show a video updating the firmware to allow to go to make 300 C?
Probably won’t since Creality won’t share the source.
@@FilamentFridaydid ya enjoy this printer at all
The vendor you linked also sells just the "Titanium" heat break, possibly the same one in this kit, at 2 pieces for $14. Assuming your existing hotend works that's all you need. I'm using one with great results, printing PLA at 30 mm³/s with no heat creep problems and high temp materials tested up to 290°C.
I missed that. Thanks.
You make some seriously helpful videos, Thanks for always making educational and easy to follow content!
Thanks for this Chuck. This has already turned out to be a rather significant upgrade to my S1! I'm very pleased! Thank you!! I had a bear of a time removing my original stock hot end. Ended up having to cut off one screw from the back side with a dremel to get it off because the original screws felt stripped out on one of them. I think it would have helped had I ran the end through a few heat cycles to warm stuff up too. I just ordered the part from the big A-zon (not advocating just saying) and it came with the longer screws. Maybe creality watched your video and fixed it. Mine also came fully assembled, so I am a little suspect about it. I told A-zon they shipped me a used part. If the replacement comes and is assembled, I'll just buy it outright. Gcode was easy. For anyone wanting it, open notepad, copy the below, change the file type to all files *.* and give it name. Copy to your SD and run the print job,
M117 PID Tuning In Progress
M303 E0 S210 C8; 210C 8 times
M500; Store values in EEPROM
M117 PID Tuning Complete
Good luck everyone and happy printing!
I did the same upgrade following your tutorial. Works great, thanks!
Very informative, thank you for posting, CHEP is one of the best 3D printer channels out there.
Very clear instructions thank you. I've just upgraded my S1 with the high(er) temp (Ti-Cu) hot end and run the PID tune as you describe all in 25 minutes. Since the nozzle had been changed I also reset the Z offset before printing a PLA test cube.
Hello, am wondering what title should you make the sd card file name?
@@JB-smokn I don't believe it matters but I label mine ENDER and PRUSA to avoid confusion with my printers
Thank you for your great video. The low amount of views baffles me, since this is a top notch guide.
I just got the Ender 3 V3 SE and try to figure out if the same upgrade works here.
Thanks for the vid! I had to replace my hot end and decided to upgrade it, but I thought it sat flush against the heat sink. Glad to see it isn't!
I haven't bought a 3D printer yet, and I'm waiting for firmware that will let the Ender 3 S1 Plus use a 300 degree hot end (and, ideally, also raise the bed temp to 110 degrees) like the S1 Pro. Lack of firmware seems to be the hang up at present.
thanks i just done mine on my elegoo neptune 2 it uses the same parts as the ender 3 etc and it work perfect 👍🙏
Fantastic! Thanks a lot, Chuck! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for the great video, upgraded mine as I plan to do some carbon nylon in the near future. Your video made the process very easy and I don't know if the placebo effect but my print quality seems better. Still deciding if I need to upgrade the firmware to go above 260C on the stock firmware, we'll see, just ordered some CF nylon..
Love your helpful videos, Chep! Did you ever do that "how to" firmware modification to so I can get my Ender 3 to run higher than 260 degrees with a hot head? If you did, I couldn't find it. Thanks!
I've been using this for a few days. I've found that with Creality PLA in a relatively dry environment (CO around 6100ft) that I've had to boost my hot end temps to about 220 to stay consistent. I was getting a lot of skipping on the extruder, but ran a few Z tests. Running at my old temp of 205 I was pulling about 83mm through on a 100mm job. Boosted temp to 210 and was just about 98 or 99. Went to 220 and 100mm bang on.
I like that setup so much better than my ender s 3 & 5.
Thanks!
Exxxxcelent. I just got a s1 plus for 400$, 20$ kit and im printing 12x12x12 nylon near 300 degrees baby! Thanks for the demo, looks super easy
Hey Andrew. I'm just about to purchase an S1 Plus and this upgrade (the copper-titanium throat version). How did you get your S1 Plus to 300 degrees? I mean, could you kindly post a link to the firmware (gCode) that will allow the S1 Plus to go beyond 260 degrees. I've been looking all over for it. Thanks.
@@icitrom in the exact same boat. Update me on how it went.
Check out mriscoc professional firmware. Omg, it’s life changing. It still feel like stock firmware but the quality of life you get from it is amazing. I feel like it should have came with that firmware.
I personally don’t use that anymore since I am using Klipper now but I should have upgraded to that fw when I got the printer. Could’ve saved a lot of time and head ache.
Edit:
Sorry, actually, I don’t think mriscoc fw would work for the plus. Just install Klipper.
Thank you.
MicroSwiss been doing this for years. No issues at all. Not looked back and no junk "red" Hot ends.
Good to know. thanks for sharing.
Many thank's,
It was indeed a defect of the S1, which I corrected with this creality piece. I
now have more confidence when printing petg.
I still use Cura 480 with my S1, and you haven’t updated the profile for this version and the direct extruder?
This is a surprise as the Creality agent here in NZ were offering the complete high temp hotend as a replacement kit…thanks…. Laurie
How long should the PID tune take? Mines been going about 20 mins now. It seemed to heat up to 210, then seemed to hover between 213 and 208 for a while and is now slowly cooling down and its saying 37 but doesnt seem to have finished and the screen is still locked?
Would have been beneficial to mention that when tight you should still see a tiny gap between the bottom of the nozzle and the heat block. This is the way to ensure there is no gap between the heat break and nozzle.
I brought a good bi-metal heat break which is copper and titanium for my Aquila, But even though using it with the Alex firmware to heat up to 260 C if needed. I found that the new Rainbow Silk PLA I got just clogged up the hot end no matter what temperature I did from 215 C up to 255 C.
I ended up having to strip down the hot end to fight to remove the clog in the heat break where you could see the un-melted filament still in the top of the heat break cool zone end and the 0.4 mm nozzle was totally clogged with the then solid filament clog.
Took me a long time heating up the heat break & Hot End Heating Block and Nozzle using a hot air gun to remove the clog. I cleaned the whole lot out once it was re-fitted to the rest of the hot end cooling part by heating it all up and running through the bowden tube some e-sun cleaning filament for sometime. Then tried the rainbow silk PLA again at a higher temperature of 250 C as I know silk PLA needs higher temps But again it got stuck and clogged the hot end. My duel gear extruder was clicking like mad.
After having to, strip it all down again many times after trying many heat settings I gave up!
I replaced the bi-metal heat break with the normal stainless steel one I normally use and the normal PLA filament I use flowed fine.
Shame the bi-metal one was meant to help me go higher temps on the Mk 8 Hot End. but ended up wasting half a day of spare time with me fighting instead with the bi-metal heat break clogging.
Will you make a video showing the firmware tuning?
Hi Chep ive just bought the same one using your link and i have question before installing it on my 3d printer.....do i need to apply thermal paste to the thermostat and hotend?
Hi Chep! Just wanted to thank you for all the information on the Ender 3. I just got started with this hobby and your videos have been incredibly helpful. Also, that trick with running a PID tune using an SD card, can I do that with other printers like the Ender 3 Pro too?
Yes. It should work fine.
Thanks for this video. What size allen wrench is needed to remove the hot end?
Good sir I would rly like more explanation of that quick pid tuning yiu just did … I jus installed a micro Swiss hotend and havnt done the tune yet and that looks a lot simpler for my ender 3 pro
Questions? Do you think the new heat break would have worked fine with the original hear block and other parts?
Isn't the thermistor in this kit the #13 sensor in marlin?and will it not ne the same calibration as the original? I'm looking to do a heat break in a family members s1 while I'm cleaning and going over the printer to get it going nice for them
Any update on updating the firmware
What size are the small machine screws that hold the heat block in place (the longer ones you kept)? One of mine broke and I'd like to get a new set.
Hi! Is the sprite extruder for S1 the same for CR CM4? Is it using the same bi-metal heatbreak as for the basic ender 3 model? Thanks!
Hi there, have you used a metal infused filament, I am looking to print some ballest weights using a brass filament. Great information delivered very well. Thanks Neale
Yes, I believe I have videos on that.
So i did this and could not the tip to print correctly. I was thinking maybe the pid tuning needed to be re done. According to another video the s210 is the temp you want to print at most. I print petg a lot so I print at higher temps most of the time. I might revisit this since I'm on vacation. Last time I tried I got so frustrated I almost didn't want to 3d print anymore.
what about the original Thermistor in the Ender 3s1..isnt that capable of 300 degrees? Do you need this complete set, or is it enough to only change the heartbreak?
Hey, is a great Video but can you tell me how to get the gcode done?
What and how can I make this?
does ender 3 s1 pro also comes with ptfe tubing stock? i want to upgrade as much as i can before i ran any test. so itl be ready for engineering grade materials like abrasive filaments.
GREATT !!
But how can I Fix that in the marlim ?
This is great, thank you so much for the follow up video 😊 It looks like the ender 3 s1 plus only heats up to 260 so does it have the same problem as the s1?
Sounds like it might. I haven’t tested one yet,
hey when do we get a cure 5 profile setting guide with what's new and what settings schuld be used because since its out my printing quality from my Anycubic Vyper is not getting better
New to 3d printing. Have Ender 3 S1. I’m put titanium heat break into stock heat block. Seems to work the same or better but haven’t tried higher temps yet. Curious about the PID tuning Gcode. Where do i plug that in to run it? Start GCode?
Be great to see if you can change the firmware to support this. Have you turned the s1 into an s1 pro just by doing this?
Where was this video 2 weeks ago when I did this to my S1? Lol
When i bought the kit, i assumed it would come fully assembled. so I was a little bummed when I received it in multiple pieces.
That being said about the heat sink, is there one for the target machine that you can purchase that still will align with the holes on the other Ender 3s? I haven't had any experience with an S1 yet. Been saying my $$$ to pay for the big boy I preordered from Prusa lol
Is the pid tuning right?
other sources says i have to make a
M301 P(insert value) I(insert value) D(insert value)
before the M500. The values are returned from the M303 command
HOW DO YOU ADD THE G-CODE? THANKS
Hey Chep. Curious to ask if you'll do a video on how to upgrade the firmware to go above the 260⁰c heating range?
It’s tough to find one I like.
I just installed the same kit but with the bi-metal heatbreak and it came in the same box. The only issue is I thought they were from Creality but they are not. I am running Marlin from TH3D so I was also able to increase the temp up to 335. Can't wait to see the video on what firmware you go with. The professional firmware that is out by mriscoc is another popular one but I had a lot of problems with it TH3Ds is made especially for the S1. I ordered the same kit but the Creality brand but it will take a month to get here. This one seems fine for now.
Did you have to build the TH3D or do they have a .bin?
great vid, will need the firmware upgrade please
No thermal paste on the heater or thermistor?
How do you make that auto PID tuning file? where can i download it?
Thank you for your video. I am hoping that fw upgrade comes for the E3 S1 Pro which has to include something for the touch screen. The only option is to use G codes from Pronterface or as CHep showed, or install Klipper, which I am sure will be rewarding but I don't want to spend my savings on a Pi when all I need is entry level tweakability: baby steps PID calibration, e steps and a cool down option, filament loading, long file names, screen colour etc. all of which are absent or partly realised on the Creality's stock crapware. The recent Creality FW "update" added zero other than swap out of the hot end for a laser head. Most yt reviewers are dizzy with praise of the Pro but only give passing mention to the woeful firmware. A printer is more than hardware! I am trying to upgrade myS1 Pro's hot end today whcih is reason for my frustrated rant.
Can anyone tell me what size the grub screw is for the ender 3 s1 plus hotend or where I can get a replacement?
No thermal paste?
Try to find a way to use two extruder. Since I have two sprite extruders
I bought one of these kits but the thermistor plug is too small? I have the S1
Hey Chep! love your videos, and they have helped me get my ender 3 running great! quick question, i also have an anycubic vyper, i like the way it primes the nozzle by extruding 25mm in front of the bed, then quickly wipes the nozzle on the tab for the pei bed, then goes straight to printing. is there a way to make that happen on the ender? thx!
Yeah, copy the start GCode in the slicer from Vyper profile to Ender 3 profile.
Can we get a link for the PID tune gcode? I've never done y own, so I'd like to be able to get it.
my extruder has a different sized thermistor plug in on it anyone know what part i should order?
Recently I swapped the Ender 2 Pro heatbrake for a slice engineering heatbrake. While swapping it out it looked as if the Ender 2 pro already came with a proper heatbrake. So might be no point in swapping it out... What kind of heatbrake is on your Ender 2 pro?
hehe you have great timing Sir
I had the S`1 Pro but it stop working for no reason so sent it back and bought the new S1 Plus and I also bought this upgrade and I was wondering what was involved in doing this now I know
Many Thanks and I guess I now will own a S1 Plus Pro hehehe Thanks once more for the great videos
I just ordered the pro, do you recommend getting the plus ? Then upgrading ?
@@solodome1802 only if doing big prints the pto was a champ but mine stop for no reason either one is a heck of a printer
Cant get it the PID tune to pop up when I install the sd card. I put it in from notes and nothing happens, anyone who can help please. What am I doing wrong?
where is this PID tuning file ??
Can this upgrade be done to a Creality CR-10 S or is the all metal hotend already installed?
Good morning sir! Was wondering if you were going to upload a Cura 5.0 profiles? Also, I'm struggling to print PETG (Polymaker), on my Ender 3 Max with a slice engineering heat break, and was wondering your thoughts.
I’m working on PETG profiles. Check out my latest video for V5.0 profiles.
I meant to say Ender 3 S1 Pro firmware into Ender 3 S1 after temperature hotend upgrade?
Can you fixa a fest print profile for ender 5 plus ?
Shorter screws is for lower heat transfer to top, lowering heat transfer to top.
? Actually, the longer the screw the more resistance there is.
Were can I download the firmware? The link on the website does not work I get a 404 error.
Haldis sell a wicked bi metalic heatbreak for the MK8 hotend, I combined one with a compression fitting to replace the pneumatic fitting, you need to tap the heatsink with a 10-1 straight tap to take out the taper but its worth it as I fitted mine 26 months ago and have not had to change it
For Ender 3, Pro, V2, etc. I prefer the Slice Engineering version. th-cam.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/w-d-xo.html
@@FilamentFriday I have the Slice Engineering the BTT and the Haldis and I think they are all as good as each other, of course the Chinese ones are much cheaper but I also like to buy from western companies as they tend to do more R&D and that is something I feel strongly about
I just installed an all metal heat break on my E3v2 last weekend.
Which did you buy? Need to upgrade my Ender 3 v2’s to run at 257C.
I did the same using Slice Engineering heatbreak. th-cam.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/w-d-xo.html
@@KevinGroninga3D it was a Micro Swiss hot-end kit from my local Microcenter.
@@KeithSkates we need to have a Microcenter here in Phoenix!
Btw. Fyi, on my Pro the heat bed cable started snagging on the rear motor case, making the bed clunk…I put a plastic bowl shaped packaging on the motor so the cable slides over it and doesnt snag it now. I didnt want to try bending the cable away from the motor in case this damaged it…apart from this its going as good as gold now…Laurie. NZ
Mine did the same thing!
I bought that for 41 dollars from a local printing store and I just realized right now that it's an upgraded version and why it costed so much
Thanks for the video. So with this upgrade the Ender 3 S1 gets the same 300 C printing capability as the PRO plus the PC bed and the knob display?
You have to update firmware to get full 300°C
@@FilamentFriday Thx Chep
Hey chep can you do a video on updating the firmware to reach 300 degrees? Thanks!
Waiting for this
Me too
Me three
Any day now?
Add me as well.
Hello! good video. I wanted to know if you have to change the retractions? since I did the update for the bimetallic barrel and it makes noises in the retractions, as if it were difficult for the plastic to travel smoothly. I work at 205 degrees and try lowering it to 200 and it does the same thing.
My go to is increasing the temp by 5 degrees each time. One of my fav filaments actually run best at 217 degrees. So just try to increase the temp and see if that helps.
Some say PLA sticks in all metal hot ends?????
the kit you mentioned in the video with the heat block and nozzle is this a hardened nozzle to print abrasive filaments.
No
Amazon sells a 5 pack hardened nozzle set, 0.2/0.3/0.4/0.5/0.6mm sizes. I have used the 0.4 and 0.6 with a smile. My best buy however was a 0.8mm nozzle for my CR-10smart. At 0.2mm layer height, I complete a print with the same quality as a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height.
0.4mm 4hour print
0.8mm 2h10m print. A massive saving in time.
And, err, yes. I butchered CHEP's Ender 2 FFEF profile to work on my Ender 3 S1's and my CR-10smart.
We have to love his dedication to improving our lives.
Can you help with a printing profile for this heat break? Did you change heat, retraction, retraction speed?
Using on a ender 3v2 with dual gear metal extruder.
I get a lot of of stringing and clogs if my retraction is more than 2mm.
Try these: th-cam.com/video/quRINpeKB5s/w-d-xo.html
Is there such a heartbreak upgrade for the Ender 3 v2? Been doing a lot of printing with DIY filament made from PET bottles and I found it prints best at about 257C. I do have the tweak where I have Capricorn tubing in that section of the hot end and though it works fine for quite a while, it eventually breaks down the Capricorn as well. So a metal heartbreak would be ideal for these high temps..
Yep. I showed it here: th-cam.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/w-d-xo.html
What was the size - thread and length of the 2 bolts you referenced that are longer ones?
I just made a comment about screws, do you know the original screws? I bought a used s1 with no screws?😢
Thanks for this video. Very helpful but I wonder if you can provide some detail as to how to make the gcode file for the PID tuning. It just a text file with a gcode suffix?
Tnx!
Yep. That’s it.
@@FilamentFriday im on text file and i cant find anything about how to create a gcode
I have an Ender 3 s1 plus, and when I try to run that .gcode, it completes it in about 1-2 seconds, never heats the nozzle max obviously… do you have any ideas on why, or how to make it work correctly? Thanks in advance.
That’s a firmware issue. Not sure hot to get around that.
Hi. Do you know if this will allow the plus to be upgraded to 300c too? Afaik the only ‘downgrade’ of the plus over the s1 pro, is the non titanium alloy all metal hot end.
Yes, should work. I don’t have a plus to test.
Question, was the temp limited by the heater block or the PTFE heatbreak? The new heater block looks identical, and i thought it was only the heatbreak that needed replacement
PTFE but the heater element and thermistor are designed for higher temp.
Is there an easy way to disassemble a greatly used heat break and heat block assembly that seem to be fused together? I have a new heat break but no heat block for my Ender 3 S1 and would like to replace the old heat break. The problem is they are stuck together. Heating the assembly doesn't seem to work. It's hard to grip the old heat break as well so that It can be unscrewed from the heat block. Is my only recourse is to purchase another heat break heat block assembly?
That’s the easiest
So hand-tightening the nozzle is good enough? I don't need to tighten it any more before I use it?
Yes, it’s should be fine as long as it tightens to the heatbreak inside.
i have ender 5plus with out silent board ... please guide me or help to upgrade tp sprinte pro kit hot end with direct drive
Just get the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder for Creality Ender 5.
Question: So I did this upgrade, and now when I re-do the z-offset, the CR Touch probe is squished on the bed when the nozzle spacing is good. I then put the stock one back on, and now with that one it does the same. What did I do wrong? Does the heatbreak have to go all the way inside so it goes up against the PTFE, or can there be a small gap? It seems like the nozzle now is too high, higher than the CR Touch probe. Really upset about this... (on me, not you...)
Not sure I understand. If the CR Touch retracted is hitting the the heat break is too deep somehow. Nozzle should be lower than retracted CRTouch.
Does this upgrade have any drawbacks for printing PLA? I read the all metal hotend can make issues for PLA.
I have an s1 pro with all metal hot end. Just the opposite, it works like a dream with PLA. Ive never had a single jam in the over 100+ hours of print time so far. Not a single problem.
A copperhead heat break from Slice will give you an all metal hot end for enders series stock hot ends for about $30. You will need to file it down a smidge.
I didn’t have to file anything: th-cam.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/w-d-xo.html
How do I extrude filament manually on an s1 to properly tune the e-steps?
Octoprint works well for this. The install process is getting much easier. Only difficult part is finding a raspberry pi if you don't have one.
Did you see my themes for Cura 5?
What is the pid running you did after the install? Is this necessary after changing the heat break? If so how can i create this file?
pid tune is necessary when you change anything related to heating/cooling elements
you can either use the menu on the screen (if the firmware has auto pid enabled) or you can create a gcode file using the code provided
hi can you please tell me if i can use the ender3 s1 display on the ender3 s1 pro as i want to use the professional firmware by mriscoc but it does not work with the touchscreen
Not sure. My guess is yes.
I just got this kit but for some reason the stock wires have both bigger clips that connecting to the extruder board. Meaning the main one is same size but thermistor is big wire in stock that comes with and small clip on the upgraded. Any idea why?
I'm currently struggling with the same problem...
@@judah5037 were you able to figure this out? I just ran into the same issue. It seems like they made the S1 "low temp" hot end have this bigger clip for some reason.
If I only buy a metal heatbreak would I be able (with firmware upgrade) to print at 300 degrees, or I will also need a higher temp thermistor?
no the org thermistor shall make it up to 300. but what are u gonna print that high? highest so far for me is ASA around 255..