Much appreciated but I can't get it to work. Ive read the read me file, printed accordingly, prints look good but parts don't seem to fit together. I even played with scaling. Any suggestions or something i may have missed?
You are a wealth of knowledge; I have come back to your videos so many times for various things (especially the Sonic Pad series). I tried to buy you a coffee, but something wouldn't work. I really need to try again, and make it several. Thank you Ricky. Anyone seeing this, please support guys like this. He is an absolute professional, and the quality of his videos involve extensive editing and great intelligence to keep the videos on point and not waste even 1 second of the viewer's time. It would be an easier task for a content creator to allow for off-point rambling and filler words like um, uh, etc. His videos couldnt' be more perfect.
I just bought and printed one and it's great! The quick detach should be a universal feature on all shrouds! This is nothing short of genius, thank you for bring this to my attention
Thanks for letting me know about this! I bought the updated v2 neo plans and the armadillo plans, very neat packages. Printed perfectly with the advice given.
Its a very good design. Thank you for these free files. I made small modifications , changed the design of front cover to fit exactly with grill liked design. Also a second cover on top of the 4010 dual cover. Perfect companion together with direct drive all metal extruder
I run the Minimus Cooler on both my ender 3 and I found it to be the best I've used. Best thing is he is awlays upgrading it, last update was a few day ago. Best few $$$ I ever spent on 3D printing.
Just as I was considering using the Hero Me gen 7 system, this shows up. Perfect timing! And its modularity is even better as it uses no bolts, no hestset inserts, no nothing; just print, assemble, snap, and back to printing. The fact that is also customizable for the stock cooling fan, dual fan and that big leaf blower style fan is such a nice addition, since I'm planning on adding that extreme cooling to my V2 Neo
This is a great find. Much simpler than other systems out there. All parts I needed were printed and installed in only a few hours. Thanks for sharing!
Ricky as usual, your videos are awesome, I am a french speaking guy, but your videos are to the point and easy understandable, no b-shit! Thanks a lot.
This was such a good video. Ive been looking for a good solution to my loud voxel lab printer and this is by far the best soloution, and every time I had a question about anything you would immediately answer it. It’s so informative for an under 10 minute video. Definitely subscribing. Thanks
This is great! Replaced stock ender 3 fan as it was so noisy - this solved my subsequent heat creep issues with the noctua 4010 12v fan, and can now print at 230 degrees 🙂
Hi Rick i have printed and fitted the minimus hotend assembly to my Voxelab Aquila and it is printing better than ever before a super improvement. Kepp up your tips they are very useful. Ray
I know a lot of people say the v-slot inlays are useless and only visual, however I find they make keeping you printer clean far, far easier. Just use them on the bottom slots though, using them on the vertical extrusions or the X gantry can interfere with your motion system.
I always liked your videos. This one is great and you really made me to buy this mod! As a matter of fact I'm investigating various fan ducts for a few days and this one will be THE ONE.
After nearly two years with my ender 3v2, I've moved way from the jyers/mriscoc to klipper, and with the incredible speed increases (and 60w heater on all metal) I finally need better cooling. Originally I printed the fang, but I just couldn't get myself to install it, but this looks very appealing and is queued up to print. I'm still using BLTouch not CR, so hopefully I can get that to fit on the CR mount. Thanks!
Has anyone heard of the minime 5015 cooler? If you don't mind using screws it looks even smaller. Ricky, I love your channel, it never feels like they're filler. Thanks for all the info.
I love how an 'upgraded' machine is just a bunch of multi colored extrusion slot covers and drawers, literally no drag chains lmao. There's a difference between the engineering crowd and the make pretty crowd. The worthy upgrades to print are anything cable management related as that's perfect for those filament scraps. The hotend that uses slide in fittings is smart, I'm here because I'm looking to reduce the weight of my gantry. I've already drilled my heated bed bracket out and replaced the heavy glass for spring steel sheet and ditched the bed leveling wheels for simple M4 nuts.
I just paid $5 and printed the Hero Me 7.4 dual 5015 set up for my ender 3 pro. During the assembly process, I was thinking "this is over engineered, too complicated and heavier". He designed the HeroMe to be "modular", universal fit product, so probably that's why it got too complicated. Probably, this is the better and simpler option. I like it!
Great video Ricky. I have been using Minimus for around 3 months on my v2 and switched due to the hotend fan dying. I use the dual 5015 part cooler version and 4020 hotend. All being 24v Sunons and just love it. Around half the volume of the original fans. Well recommended.
I wanna go the 5015 route myself but am confused as to what type of fans I need to purchase for the parts cooling if I print the "5015 Dual" file. Do I need axial or radial fans?
I might be a bit late, but I just printed this exact setup for my V2 with 4.2.7 board, I am just curious on the motherboard connections, how did you tackle that? Can the motherboard support two 24V 5015??
@SauROnmiKE I don't use this anymore but when I did, I bought a pack of 2 pin male and female connectors and just splice them in just above the heatsink assembly. It was a bit bulky but worked the power draw of the fans is tiny so running 2 didn't have any issues. I only ran them at 60% anyway otherwise too much cooling. I have since swapped the whole thing out for a Microswiss NG Revo. Best thing I did.
If you float some pepper on top of the water you can visualise the airflow much better, I got this method from Nathan Builds Robots YT channel. I already changed my hotends to Hero Me Gen 5 and 6 but these look awesome, I am wanting to get a third Ender 5 Plus but I am holding out in the hope that Sovol will do their thing with this printer design, whichever one I get I will definetly fit this model of fan duct and shroud!
@@RickyImpey I havent seen a bad review of a Sovol machine yet and I watched loads of them, everyone is wowed by them and the comments are extremley positive, the only critisism I have is that they wont sell the SV05-Cubic in the UK as they say we are not interested in it, but they have never sold this model in the UK!
What I love about it is its simplistic design that does not require any other modifications to the Ender system. I have a dual gear direct drive mod and it works perfectly with the different selections made by Rouge Paul and Rogue Designs. No need to over engineer with fancy designs. I am not taking away from other designs that work great if not better, but For a simple well design Ender 3 v2 , this system is perfect. I still need to know what the "Light Trays" are for.
Hey there I'm Paul the designer. If you can imagine the crosssection of that area, you will see that the angled airfoil brings air to bottom of the heatsink. Now combine that angle with the air above it that is not being influenced by the airfoil and you get a curved stream that gets under heatsink and to heat break and bolts. If your concerned about pulling heat a layer or 2 of kapton tape should make a difference. Over 800 ppl are running Minimus now it's been very stable. 👍
0:30 you mention a test file to print for free, however I can see no link for this. The biggest problem is, if you have a printer that is not on the list, you have to take the chance that something will fit your particular printer. I have however downloaded these files and may even have to modify something along the way. I just thought it strange there was no link anywhere for the test print.
A question, given this fixes behind the hot-end therefore displacing the Y axis by the thickness of the fan holder, how does that effect the printing ? Do you have to put in a Y offset value ?
Well, I'm going to try one, but when you take the front fan off it looks like the air will be blowing straight over the heat block, surely this will have a negative effect even if a small one
Nope. Temps nice and stable. Air aimed at bottom of heatsink. Air that goes through heatbreak is high and not blowing at Heater. This keeps heatbreak temp low you get better retraction performance and no more Clogs. Unless you cause them with crazy retraction settings. 👍
Hello, buddy. Thanks for the video! Could you help me with a question? I want to add an extra cooler, but I don’t know exactly what voltage to buy. How can I determine the correct voltage for my printer, or does it not matter-meaning I can use 12V or 24V without concern?
I cannot seem to get the minimus to fit onto the backplate correctly assuming that the backplate should fit right into the top of the minimus grooves on either side ?
@@RickyImpey I printed the parts at different line heights and used the shrink option in Cura, picked the closest two parts for a fit then cleaned and sanded the closest back plate fit, all now fitted and working.
hi, please you have video about, how filmingtime laps? and my second options is meaby stupid but for my ender 3 s1 pro is what options for this two fan? and where i can plugin power? 😇
I'm planning to try and find the best solution to this as it is the limiting factor to maximum speeds on the S1 Pro. I'm afraid I can't recommend any specific cooling mod just yet though.
Appreciate some advice on how to print the duct using an Ender 3 v2 direct drive. What cura settings should I use and which orientation on the print bed should I use. I will be using petg filament Thanks
I am using it on a Ender-2 Pro, single fan using stock fans. seems to work better than the stock fan shroud and I can see what's going on when I am running a print. That stock fan shroud is extremely bulky and blocks you from seeing what is going on under the nozzle.
Hi Van, I've just got an Ender 2 Pro and I'm loving it. I would like to have a go at printing one for the stock setup. Could you advice me as to what files I need to print. There are that many to chose from I'm just so confused. Thanks in advance.
@@jondavies450 hey Jon, I used the non cable management version of the back plate and the non bltouch single fan version. The 4010 fans, I believe are the stock fans on the ender-2 pro. Like the creator of this video, i printed mine using PLA+ and have had no issues with the plastic deforming on me.
Can't wait to get this going. I'm also doing KevinAkaSam's Ender3V2 upgrade. Both of these should keep the printer relevant for another 5-6 years with good maintenance. Don't have $1400 to spend on all these fancy printers. Upgrading is definitely the way to go.
i did the kevinakasam upgrade and boy the walls are clean loving it for now . Bambu lab have good printers for the price they ask and now you have options that starts at 300 and it gives you a lot more features and quality pieces and Q.C where other brands for that price is a basic printer and if you are going to upgrade you will pass the price of the expensive printers and saves you from a lot of pain dialing errors of the ender 3
Doesn't having a cooling duct only on one side can cause banding on the other side? I usually see dual duct but doesn't that also miss cooling on two sides? Wouldn't it be ideal to have a circular ring to provide cooling on all sides?
Airflow can be very difficult to predict. I understand what you mean but it practice, both the single and dual setup work well. People try all sorts of cooling ducts but without trying them you can never really know how they work.
@Ricky Impey true. I have one which I've tried the water test and it made a nice divot. I tried another and it didn't make a divot but seemed to make a whirlwind effect. Both used the same blower. The whirlwind was better.
I think the circular may get the air to the nizzle but then block it from leaving. I try to get side coverage and also keep the air moving away from nozzle area after it has absorbed the heat.
I bought and printed one of these for my Ender 3 Neo, but it seems it's too small to fit my stock hotend? My hotend looks wider than the one in this video, it's got long wavy looking fins rather than the flat rectangular design here. Is mine incompatible? I don't want to replace the hotend now :(
Hello, this is a beautiful design but I wanted to ask will it work with the Creality CR10S? I tried to install it but it looks like the air ducts are higher than in the video you have for your Ender 3. The fans fit perfect but I’m worried about it being too high.
It's possible that your hotend is longer than on the Ender 3 style hotends that this cooler was designed for. My CR10s Pro has a longer hotend so I can't use the Minimus on that machine.
I haven't had my bowden tubes move in their couplings since NOT constraining them to the wiring, it causes unnecessary stress and movement on the bowden.
Hi mate, I've run into a problem; as per your description, I went a bought a 4020 fan for the hotend, which fits fine, as well as a couple of turbo 4020 blower fans for the part cooling but I can't seem to find anything in Paul's designs to fit dual 4020 blower fans for the part cooling - can you help? Cheers in advance
I *think* so but I don't have one. I only have the CR10s Pro and the hotend on this one is too long. If the CR10 hotend is the same as the Ender 3s then it will most likely fit.
@@FEPLabsRadio Here's what I did to get the dual fan option with the wire management backplate. I don't use any automatic bed leveling so I just printed the basic version. If you use auto bed leveling, just look for the BL or CR attached to the files I mention below. Hope this helps. From the 'Its full of stars' folder, go to New 4010. Select either 'New 4010 Dual or Single.' In the same folder, got to '4010 Ducts' and select 'Duct 4010 0 R and/or then L.' Then go to the 'New Backplates' folder and then into the 'Backplates WM' folder. From there select 'Backplate WM.' (WM stands for Wire Management.) Also, if you double click on the STL file it will open up and show you a photo. At least it did on my PC. Good luck!
Just curious if anyone has tried to fit this design on the Ender 5 plus. It looks like a great design and the hotends are, I believe, quite similar. Do you think it would work?
Thanks for the informative video, the files are daunting indeed! I have sliced all the files I think are correct.. One thing you dont cover is the CR touch offset, did you have to modify at all? I have a cr touch fitted at the moment.
@RickyImpey I asked the designer of this file and he states it has been made to position CR touch in the same place as using original hot end fan cover. Much easier than compiling your own firmware file.
I was just wonder if anyone knows or has knowledge on this, is it possible to just use electrical tape to connect all the wiring for the dual 4010 part cooling fan?
Hi Ricky How is the minimus As you joined the 2 original 40×10 nozzle fans, have you had any trouble in doing this I'm just printing it now For the standard 40×10 nozzle fans Thanks
The read me file is pretty extensive but no, there aren't any specific instructions. It is free now though so worth grabbing and seeing if you can make sense of it.
Answers were in the pictures, installed and working, were there any changes you found necessary to settings? Using midland pla at 215 deg/ 50deg. Thanks
I'm a bit confused. People saying that they've printed it in PETG or even PLA... won't any of the parts melt or at least warp? They are so close to the hotend
@@RickyImpeyMade it out of ABS cause I'm printing ABS in an enclosure, the fella has been going strong for a year now! this thing is amazing for maintenance! I'll try adapting it for my Ender 2 Pro as well
On my Voxelab Aquilas, I printed ducts and the main body with NO supports. The only (minor) issue was at the back of the main body where the "airfoil" is unsupported. I got a bit of sag on the first layer, but from there up, everything looks good. After playing with this, I used Tinkercad to add manual supports to those two spots. My final prints were done at 0.16mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle, no supports by Cura, using PLA+. The only thing I had to modify from Paul's original files was the backplate. On my machine(s), I had to use a 0.3mm line width (from a 0.4mm nozzle) AND I changed flow to 90%. That gave me a backplate that fit PERFECTLY into the slots on the main body. BTW, I have installed this on a direct drive hot-end, BMG with printed direct drive mount. It easily mounts and disconnects, though I had to trim the connecting tube a bit to give some slop at the BMG end.
Not as such, at the moment it is only designed to work for the Ender and Microswiss type hotends but if there is demand, I'm sure Paul would modify the design.
Hi, I don't have a Neo Max so can't say for sure but the pictures I can find of the hotend look like the Ender 3 v2 backplate and hot end which it does fit to.
I love this kit. However, I am concerned that the wire management version of the backplate in combination with fitted Armadillo wraps are putting more strain on the X-Axis. Anyone else have this concern? I'm thinking to maybe re-print the non-cable management version of the backplate...
You may know if it can fit the Spider Hotend Pro with the Ender 3 v2? This is still your best recommendation ? I passed through all of your Sonic Pad calibrations series and all succeeded great. But when I printed on 160 mm/s I have some issues with the corners of the print model... it's looks like they are melted, "smashed"... I can't understand why... maybe it's related to the cooling ? My setup is Spider Hotend pro + MK8 Dual Drive BMG Extruder Clone and the stock cooling duct.
Is it possible to buy a printed Minimus? I have just changed the hotend on my E3V2 & noticed when bed levelling that the existing fan cowl is lower that the print nozzle. I don't want to piddle about with the existing fan & cowling so if I can purchase a Minimus using existing stock fan, this will get me back on the road to be able to print the version I want.
ITS FREE NOW (as of 01/09/2023)
confirmed
Wow, that is awesome.
Wish I could open it as it's just pictures with no way to get anything
Wish I could open it as it's just pictures with no way to get anything
Can't figure it out I'll stick to thingaverse
I'll say it again - I see a lot of 3D printing videos but yours are probably THE most information-dense and no BS
Hey Ricky, Thank you for giving my Minimus a good test. I set Minimus at a special price this week for your viewers. 👍
Thanks Paul, great design that deserves some more eyes! Grab a bargain now everyone.
Any promo code or something? ;-)
@@mikolajrNo code, Everyone gets the deal 😉
@@mikolajr Paul's reduced the price for us all this week 👍
Much appreciated but I can't get it to work. Ive read the read me file, printed accordingly, prints look good but parts don't seem to fit together. I even played with scaling. Any suggestions or something i may have missed?
You are a wealth of knowledge; I have come back to your videos so many times for various things (especially the Sonic Pad series). I tried to buy you a coffee, but something wouldn't work. I really need to try again, and make it several. Thank you Ricky.
Anyone seeing this, please support guys like this. He is an absolute professional, and the quality of his videos involve extensive editing and great intelligence to keep the videos on point and not waste even 1 second of the viewer's time. It would be an easier task for a content creator to allow for off-point rambling and filler words like um, uh, etc. His videos couldnt' be more perfect.
Thanks for the support👍
I just bought and printed one and it's great! The quick detach should be a universal feature on all shrouds! This is nothing short of genius, thank you for bring this to my attention
Thanks! I need to replace my cover, this looks like an excellent option! Great channel, Ricky!
Thanks very much 👍
Thanks for letting me know about this! I bought the updated v2 neo plans and the armadillo plans, very neat packages. Printed perfectly with the advice given.
Its a very good design. Thank you for these free files. I made small modifications , changed the design of front cover to fit exactly with grill liked design. Also a second cover on top of the 4010 dual cover. Perfect companion together with direct drive all metal extruder
I run the Minimus Cooler on both my ender 3 and I found it to be the best I've used.
Best thing is he is awlays upgrading it, last update was a few day ago. Best few $$$ I ever spent on 3D printing.
Just as I was considering using the Hero Me gen 7 system, this shows up. Perfect timing! And its modularity is even better as it uses no bolts, no hestset inserts, no nothing; just print, assemble, snap, and back to printing. The fact that is also customizable for the stock cooling fan, dual fan and that big leaf blower style fan is such a nice addition, since I'm planning on adding that extreme cooling to my V2 Neo
Hi! I have a question about how you downloaded the parts, I couldn't do it myself.
This is a great find. Much simpler than other systems out there. All parts I needed were printed and installed in only a few hours. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it helped
Thanks!
Ricky as usual, your videos are awesome, I am a french speaking guy, but your videos are to the point and easy understandable, no b-shit! Thanks a lot.
This was such a good video. Ive been looking for a good solution to my loud voxel lab printer and this is by far the best soloution, and every time I had a question about anything you would immediately answer it. It’s so informative for an under 10 minute video. Definitely subscribing. Thanks
Thanks, it's great to hear that i'm including the right information. Welcome to the channel.
What voxelab printer do you have, presumably you printed this with success? I'm looking to add this to my aquila x2.
This is great! Replaced stock ender 3 fan as it was so noisy - this solved my subsequent heat creep issues with the noctua 4010 12v fan, and can now print at 230 degrees 🙂
Printed a pair for my two 3v2 printers. They are great. Easy to remove in the event of a hot end mishap or to facilitate maintenance.
Another fantastic tutorial from Ricky! Quick and to the point, but leaves nothing out. Great video!
Hi Rick
i have printed and fitted the minimus hotend assembly to my Voxelab Aquila and it is printing better than ever before a super improvement. Kepp up your tips they are very useful.
Ray
Glad to hear it Ray, thanks for the comment👍
Thanks Ricky, love your presentation style - very informative and a good balance of information and visuals
I like this a lot better then the Hero Me. I will definitely be giving this a try. Also supporting the creator for more mods
Very clever way to check airflow with water. Thanks.
I know a lot of people say the v-slot inlays are useless and only visual, however I find they make keeping you printer clean far, far easier. Just use them on the bottom slots though, using them on the vertical extrusions or the X gantry can interfere with your motion system.
Literally the best printable upgrade, period.
Just bought this along with new fans. Thank you
I always liked your videos. This one is great and you really made me to buy this mod! As a matter of fact I'm investigating various fan ducts for a few days and this one will be THE ONE.
Glad you like it👍
This is a great find, thanks for showcasing it.
Thank goodness for this video, the file tree is such a mess without guidance.
I use this and it’s honestly the best hands down
After nearly two years with my ender 3v2, I've moved way from the jyers/mriscoc to klipper, and with the incredible speed increases (and 60w heater on all metal) I finally need better cooling. Originally I printed the fang, but I just couldn't get myself to install it, but this looks very appealing and is queued up to print. I'm still using BLTouch not CR, so hopefully I can get that to fit on the CR mount. Thanks!
BL and CR Touch are basically the same thing, they both fit fine👍
Has anyone heard of the minime 5015 cooler? If you don't mind using screws it looks even smaller. Ricky, I love your channel, it never feels like they're filler. Thanks for all the info.
Is it compatible with the Spider 3.0 hotend ?
I love how an 'upgraded' machine is just a bunch of multi colored extrusion slot covers and drawers, literally no drag chains lmao. There's a difference between the engineering crowd and the make pretty crowd. The worthy upgrades to print are anything cable management related as that's perfect for those filament scraps. The hotend that uses slide in fittings is smart, I'm here because I'm looking to reduce the weight of my gantry. I've already drilled my heated bed bracket out and replaced the heavy glass for spring steel sheet and ditched the bed leveling wheels for simple M4 nuts.
I just paid $5 and printed the Hero Me 7.4 dual 5015 set up for my ender 3 pro. During the assembly process, I was thinking "this is over engineered, too complicated and heavier". He designed the HeroMe to be "modular", universal fit product, so probably that's why it got too complicated.
Probably, this is the better and simpler option. I like it!
Great video Ricky.
I have been using Minimus for around 3 months on my v2 and switched due to the hotend fan dying. I use the dual 5015 part cooler version and 4020 hotend. All being 24v Sunons and just love it. Around half the volume of the original fans. Well recommended.
I wanna go the 5015 route myself but am confused as to what type of fans I need to purchase for the parts cooling if I print the "5015 Dual" file. Do I need axial or radial fans?
@@schmuhf hey, you need the 5015 radial or 'blower' type for the part cooling and i used a single 4020 axial fan at the front for hot end cooling
@@a51alias That's what I figured in the meantime, thanks a bunch for the reply. The plastic parts are already done and I'll now order some fans.
I might be a bit late, but I just printed this exact setup for my V2 with 4.2.7 board, I am just curious on the motherboard connections, how did you tackle that? Can the motherboard support two 24V 5015??
@SauROnmiKE I don't use this anymore but when I did, I bought a pack of 2 pin male and female connectors and just splice them in just above the heatsink assembly. It was a bit bulky but worked the power draw of the fans is tiny so running 2 didn't have any issues. I only ran them at 60% anyway otherwise too much cooling.
I have since swapped the whole thing out for a Microswiss NG Revo. Best thing I did.
Does the fan speed need to be adjusted to accommodate for the more concentrated air flow?
I Recomend 40%-60% I have been using 60% @ 150mm/s and it's doing great.
If you float some pepper on top of the water you can visualise the airflow much better, I got this method from Nathan Builds Robots YT channel.
I already changed my hotends to Hero Me Gen 5 and 6 but these look awesome, I am wanting to get a third Ender 5 Plus but I am holding out in the hope that Sovol will do their thing with this printer design, whichever one I get I will definetly fit this model of fan duct and shroud!
Interesting you mention Sovol, I have their SV01 Pro on test at the moment and it's awesome. Very impressed with their machines so far.
Also, good tip with the pepper, I'll try that thanks 👍
@@RickyImpey I havent seen a bad review of a Sovol machine yet and I watched loads of them, everyone is wowed by them and the comments are extremley positive, the only critisism I have is that they wont sell the SV05-Cubic in the UK as they say we are not interested in it, but they have never sold this model in the UK!
What I love about it is its simplistic design that does not require any other modifications to the Ender system. I have a dual gear direct drive mod and it works perfectly with the different selections made by Rouge Paul and Rogue Designs. No need to over engineer with fancy designs. I am not taking away from other designs that work great if not better, but For a simple well design Ender 3 v2 , this system is perfect. I still need to know what the "Light Trays" are for.
I don't actually know what the light trays are for. I guess some sort of light?!
@@RickyImpey it looks like they're small enough and match in size to where the ducts attach on the bottom. How do I contact the designer to ask him?
At 3:50 it shows the hotend fan is blowing directly onto the exposed top of the heatblock, i think that isn't desirable. What do you think about that?
Hey there I'm Paul the designer. If you can imagine the crosssection of that area, you will see that the angled airfoil brings air to bottom of the heatsink. Now combine that angle with the air above it that is not being influenced by the airfoil and you get a curved stream that gets under heatsink and to heat break and bolts. If your concerned about pulling heat a layer or 2 of kapton tape should make a difference. Over 800 ppl are running Minimus now it's been very stable. 👍
0:30 you mention a test file to print for free, however I can see no link for this.
The biggest problem is, if you have a printer that is not on the list, you have to take the chance that something will fit your particular printer.
I have however downloaded these files and may even have to modify something along the way.
I just thought it strange there was no link anywhere for the test print.
A question, given this fixes behind the hot-end therefore displacing the Y axis by the thickness of the fan holder, how does that effect the printing ? Do you have to put in a Y offset value ?
It doesn't actually space the y axis, it has holes larger than the raised mounts on the backplate so is sandwiched between in the gap, Very clever.
@@RickyImpey Indeed very clever, I shall have to check my printer out (Not an Ender, An Aquilla) to see if the fixings are the same
Well, I'm going to try one, but when you take the front fan off it looks like the air will be blowing straight over the heat block, surely this will have a negative effect even if a small one
Nope. Temps nice and stable. Air aimed at bottom of heatsink. Air that goes through heatbreak is high and not blowing at Heater. This keeps heatbreak temp low you get better retraction performance and no more Clogs. Unless you cause them with crazy retraction settings. 👍
would this work on your Ender S1 pro?
Unfortunately not.
Hello, buddy. Thanks for the video! Could you help me with a question? I want to add an extra cooler, but I don’t know exactly what voltage to buy. How can I determine the correct voltage for my printer, or does it not matter-meaning I can use 12V or 24V without concern?
I cannot seem to get the minimus to fit onto the backplate correctly assuming that the backplate
should fit right into the top of the minimus grooves on either side ?
Yes, it should slide down over those rails. Have you calibrated you printer at all? It could need a few things checking.
@@RickyImpey I printed the parts at different line heights and used the shrink option in Cura, picked the closest two parts
for a fit then cleaned and sanded the closest back plate fit, all now fitted and working.
hi, please you have video about, how filmingtime laps? and my second options is meaby stupid but for my ender 3 s1 pro is what options for this two fan? and where i can plugin power? 😇
I am going to print this today, my default duct broke, I also use it for removing my prints with Continuous Print on Octoprint.
Any recommendations for cooling on the S1 Pro for higher speeds with the sonic pad?
I'm planning to try and find the best solution to this as it is the limiting factor to maximum speeds on the S1 Pro. I'm afraid I can't recommend any specific cooling mod just yet though.
Appreciate some advice on how to print the duct using an Ender 3 v2 direct drive. What cura settings should I use and which orientation on the print bed should I use. I will be using petg filament
Thanks
I am using it on a Ender-2 Pro, single fan using stock fans. seems to work better than the stock fan shroud and I can see what's going on when I am running a print. That stock fan shroud is extremely bulky and blocks you from seeing what is going on under the nozzle.
Hi Van, I've just got an Ender 2 Pro and I'm loving it. I would like to have a go at printing one for the stock setup. Could you advice me as to what files I need to print. There are that many to chose from I'm just so confused. Thanks in advance.
@@jondavies450 hey Jon, I used the non cable management version of the back plate and the non bltouch single fan version. The 4010 fans, I believe are the stock fans on the ender-2 pro. Like the creator of this video, i printed mine using PLA+ and have had no issues with the plastic deforming on me.
great vid. love your content!
Will you do a review/tutorial of the latest version, the “Minimus Snap”?
Did you need new, longer bolts in order to mount the backplate?
No, it slots over the protruding lugs on my Ender 3v2 backplate and gets sandwiched.
@@RickyImpey Got all the parts printed and will install later. It's as light as a feather fully assembled!
Hopefully, someone with more ability than I will come up with a version for the Artillery SWX2.
I have been wondering on the motherboard load for the dual version.
Would powering two 5015 and a 4020 cause issues to the motherboard??
When installing on an Ender 3 Pro, how can I add a 2nd part-cooling fan? Where does it get electricity from?
I didn’t see that the sprite on the Ender 3 v3 SE was supported. Of course I’m new.
Hey Ricky, great video! Convinced me to go for it and I'm loving the Minimus. Any chance you could share the STL of that test file? The angled tube?
Thank you ricky, good tutorial
Can't wait to get this going. I'm also doing KevinAkaSam's Ender3V2 upgrade. Both of these should keep the printer relevant for another 5-6 years with good maintenance. Don't have $1400 to spend on all these fancy printers. Upgrading is definitely the way to go.
i did the kevinakasam upgrade and boy the walls are clean loving it for now . Bambu lab have good printers for the price they ask and now you have options that starts at 300 and it gives you a lot more features and quality pieces and Q.C where other brands for that price is a basic printer and if you are going to upgrade you will pass the price of the expensive printers and saves you from a lot of pain dialing errors of the ender 3
Doesn't having a cooling duct only on one side can cause banding on the other side? I usually see dual duct but doesn't that also miss cooling on two sides? Wouldn't it be ideal to have a circular ring to provide cooling on all sides?
Airflow can be very difficult to predict. I understand what you mean but it practice, both the single and dual setup work well. People try all sorts of cooling ducts but without trying them you can never really know how they work.
@Ricky Impey true. I have one which I've tried the water test and it made a nice divot. I tried another and it didn't make a divot but seemed to make a whirlwind effect. Both used the same blower. The whirlwind was better.
I think the circular may get the air to the nizzle but then block it from leaving. I try to get side coverage and also keep the air moving away from nozzle area after it has absorbed the heat.
Hi, tahnks for the video is very informative, but is this cooler support 5015 fan with the Creality Spider 3.0, thanks?
I bought and printed one of these for my Ender 3 Neo, but it seems it's too small to fit my stock hotend? My hotend looks wider than the one in this video, it's got long wavy looking fins rather than the flat rectangular design here. Is mine incompatible? I don't want to replace the hotend now :(
Very good. I've had it for a long time
Good isn't it👍
Where can I find that cord coil thing? I can't seem to find anything like it
How do you connect up the second fan? I've been looking around and have not found one.
I just connected a second fan in parallel with my original fan so it runs off the same pins from the control board.
My favorite part is the bltouch and hot end stay in place and therefore probe offset won’t need readjusting!
you should have a look at the Rakkelfant V3 on printables
Hello Mr Impey ! Would you say that this extruder modification has to be preliminary stage before link a Sonic Pad to my E3v2 ? Thanks for your time !
It helps improve cooling which will be needed if you use a Sonic Pad and start printing faster.
@@RickyImpey ok so here we Go ! Thanks 👌🏻🫡
Hello, this is a beautiful design but I wanted to ask will it work with the Creality CR10S? I tried to install it but it looks like the air ducts are higher than in the video you have for your Ender 3. The fans fit perfect but I’m worried about it being too high.
It's possible that your hotend is longer than on the Ender 3 style hotends that this cooler was designed for. My CR10s Pro has a longer hotend so I can't use the Minimus on that machine.
I haven't had my bowden tubes move in their couplings since NOT constraining them to the wiring, it causes unnecessary stress and movement on the bowden.
Hi mate, I've run into a problem; as per your description, I went a bought a 4020 fan for the hotend, which fits fine, as well as a couple of turbo 4020 blower fans for the part cooling but I can't seem to find anything in Paul's designs to fit dual 4020 blower fans for the part cooling - can you help? Cheers in advance
I'm not ready to move the BL_Touch on my Ender 5 Plus, will this require any changes? other than parts?
can you use this setup for the sprite extruder pro kit?
Amazing tutorial, thx a lot!
I need your help. I’ve been trying to compile marlin for my mks Robin e3 v1.0 for couple of days. Found this video. Followed it but still same problem
Would this fit an cr10s? Would love to have a lower weight shroud.
I *think* so but I don't have one. I only have the CR10s Pro and the hotend on this one is too long. If the CR10 hotend is the same as the Ender 3s then it will most likely fit.
@@RickyImpey thanks for the info man! Love your videos!
I like this one as it looks to be the lightest so far. I am confused as to which files to print though. The readme file did not really help that much.
I have kind of the same problem. It looks like the folder names got a bit more complicated than when the video was shot.
@@FEPLabsRadio Here's what I did to get the dual fan option with the wire management backplate. I don't use any automatic bed leveling so I just printed the basic version. If you use auto bed leveling, just look for the BL or CR attached to the files I mention below. Hope this helps.
From the 'Its full of stars' folder, go to New 4010. Select either 'New 4010 Dual or Single.' In the same folder, got to '4010 Ducts' and select 'Duct 4010 0 R and/or then L.' Then go to the 'New Backplates' folder and then into the 'Backplates WM' folder. From there select 'Backplate WM.' (WM stands for Wire Management.) Also, if you double click on the STL file it will open up and show you a photo. At least it did on my PC. Good luck!
What fans are you guys using ??
what are the Light Trays for?
I guess i missed it but I can’t find the wire armadillo in the file. Is it something i have to buy separately?
Does this upgrade fit correctly on the the printer if I have the extruder converted to direct drive?
Awesome, thanks 🙏
Just curious if anyone has tried to fit this design on the Ender 5 plus. It looks like a great design and the hotends are, I believe, quite similar. Do you think it would work?
Actually I really wish if we can see it vs others fan ducties, like hero me and etc.
The best comparison I seen was a customer pic of the pile of bolts required to hold a HeroMe together. 👍
Thanks for the informative video, the files are daunting indeed! I have sliced all the files I think are correct..
One thing you dont cover is the CR touch offset, did you have to modify at all? I have a cr touch fitted at the moment.
Yes, you should measure and set your new offset.
@RickyImpey I asked the designer of this file and he states it has been made to position CR touch in the same place as using original hot end fan cover. Much easier than compiling your own firmware file.
@@timknowlden Ah ok, I either didn't realise that or had forgotten 👍
hello congratulations for the video. In the file downloaded by cults3d there are 5 types of ducts, which one is ideal for better cooling?
I was just wonder if anyone knows or has knowledge on this, is it possible to just use electrical tape to connect all the wiring for the dual 4010 part cooling fan?
Hi, will this fit a Max Neo?
Hi Ricky
How is the minimus
As you joined the 2 original 40×10 nozzle fans,
have you had any trouble in doing this
I'm just printing it now
For the standard 40×10 nozzle fans
Thanks
Does this work on the Ender 3 S1 Pro? If so, which .STL do I need?
Hi, Is there an installation instructions available for the Minimus? I have the Cr and swiss hotend. Thanks
The read me file is pretty extensive but no, there aren't any specific instructions. It is free now though so worth grabbing and seeing if you can make sense of it.
Answers were in the pictures, installed and working, were there any changes you found necessary to settings? Using midland pla at 215 deg/ 50deg. Thanks
@@normanziegelmeyer7693 No, it all worked well with Paul's advice
Sorry got confused, I was asking about the swiss hotend.I installed it and the minimus.Minimus works as advertized, no adjustments required.
Any that’s for the sprite extruder
I'm a bit confused. People saying that they've printed it in PETG or even PLA... won't any of the parts melt or at least warp? They are so close to the hotend
Mine didn't, I used both PLA and PETG versions with no issues.
@@RickyImpey Alright, I'll try it then :D
@@RickyImpeyMade it out of ABS cause I'm printing ABS in an enclosure, the fella has been going strong for a year now! this thing is amazing for maintenance! I'll try adapting it for my Ender 2 Pro as well
do we know if it is 100 percent necessary to print with tree supports...im too used to prusa slicer
On my Voxelab Aquilas, I printed ducts and the main body with NO supports. The only (minor) issue was at the back of the main body where the "airfoil" is unsupported. I got a bit of sag on the first layer, but from there up, everything looks good. After playing with this, I used Tinkercad to add manual supports to those two spots. My final prints were done at 0.16mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle, no supports by Cura, using PLA+.
The only thing I had to modify from Paul's original files was the backplate. On my machine(s), I had to use a 0.3mm line width (from a 0.4mm nozzle) AND I changed flow to 90%. That gave me a backplate that fit PERFECTLY into the slots on the main body.
BTW, I have installed this on a direct drive hot-end, BMG with printed direct drive mount. It easily mounts and disconnects, though I had to trim the connecting tube a bit to give some slop at the BMG end.
@@timrobinson7152 I've still gotta dial in my settings, I printed the fan mount and my overhangs before bridges be droopy 😅
This is a pretty nifty design. Are there different fan ducts for different hotends? Or a way to move them up and down?
Not as such, at the moment it is only designed to work for the Ender and Microswiss type hotends but if there is demand, I'm sure Paul would modify the design.
update on the way adds 4 more Ducts heights. This will be out within the week. 👍
Hey mate love video will this upgrade work on Ender max 3 neo.. keep up the great video
Hi, I don't have a Neo Max so can't say for sure but the pictures I can find of the hotend look like the Ender 3 v2 backplate and hot end which it does fit to.
I love this kit. However, I am concerned that the wire management version of the backplate in combination with fitted Armadillo wraps are putting more strain on the X-Axis. Anyone else have this concern? I'm thinking to maybe re-print the non-cable management version of the backplate...
You may know if it can fit the Spider Hotend Pro with the Ender 3 v2? This is still your best recommendation ? I passed through all of your Sonic Pad calibrations series and all succeeded great. But when I printed on 160 mm/s I have some issues with the corners of the print model... it's looks like they are melted, "smashed"... I can't understand why... maybe it's related to the cooling ? My setup is Spider Hotend pro + MK8 Dual Drive BMG Extruder Clone and the stock cooling duct.
hola que tal, que material usastes para imprimirlo? con pla dura algo o con petg?anda con una ender 3 pro.gracias
Is it possible to buy a printed Minimus? I have just changed the hotend on my E3V2 & noticed when bed levelling that the existing fan cowl is lower that the print nozzle. I don't want to piddle about with the existing fan & cowling so if I can purchase a Minimus using existing stock fan, this will get me back on the road to be able to print the version I want.