The QIDI Q1 Pro is an AWESOME 3D Printer with some WEIRD choices. full review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2024
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I clicked because I knew this video will be of high quality and about something really remarkable. No click bait, no daily filler about uninteresting stuff. Thank you for that and keep it up!
After the latest Zach Friedman video, all i wanna do is print Kapton
He's a legend and even he couldn't! ... not yet anyway :)
🤣🤣🫠🤣😆
If I could print PEKK and PEKK-CF, I'd be satisfied :')
ya been loving those videos, learning about so many different materials to print with. PCTG sounded really good for a general purpose filament, it is on amazon for about 30 bucks, so about where PLA used to be for the higher end stuff might have to try it eventually.
Nice review. Pretty much the same conclusions I reached as well. BTW, the door is easier to open from the notch in the lower corner. It's still a weird design, without affordances or design cues to make it easy to understand.
nice to see you here :)
Possible solution: buy a cheap drawer handle with screws from a hardware store and drill some holes in the door then attach. That's what I did with a flat acrylic door on my custom printer and it works great.
Definitely odd. My XM3 has a well designed handle 🤷🏽♀️
@@Jerrie-Lenore This is a better design since it blocks less of your view. Also uses less materials, so more environmentally conscious than you are.
@@legendfpv ?
Hey Angus, I got the X-Plus 3 and recognized why it heats up, cleans the nozzle only to then do the meshing with a cool nozzle, etc... The Startup routine basically calls the heatup-routine first, then calls the nozzle-cleanup, and instead of then starting the print, it calls the kamp-meshing first in your case. The Issue only lays in the Kamp-routine which always sets the Hotend-Temp to 0, to prevent drips of molten material sticking to the buildplate while probing!
To fix this issue one can either turn off kamp before every print, or simply open the config-files and put the call-function for kamp-mesh before the call-function for the nozzle wipe...
ya you can run the KAMP before then run everything else. There are other ways to do adaptive bed meshing with a macro instead of running KAMP, but it looks like Qidi is just running vanilla Klipper. Which if you update to v12 has KAMP built into the system now, meaning you can just enable it in vanilla Klipper instead of having a sub routine instead.
"IP protections in China". I choked on my coffee...
At some point you must realize that china exists past comical caricatures right?
You beat me to it. 😅
IP protection does exist and is enforced in China. They just don't care about IP from other countries...
@@BeefIngotdoes it? China is a caricature of itself.
@@theglowcloud2215 That is a very accurate description
That dice tower was the first big print I did on my original ender 3... It took 5 days straight.
wow that filament unloading is nuts. crazy because the original x plus 3 had a filament cutter that was kind of crappy but worked, but they removed it!!!!!
That's the way it works on my X-Max 3, though I don't nearly have as much trouble as the reviewer. I think it would be relatively straight forward to create a small housing with a spring-loaded box cutter or X-Acto knife blade that you can press to cut the filament without removing anything.
Just heat and pull. Video method not required.
Thank you for this honest and clear review of this machine!
I like the sincerity of your tests, despite certain negative points, I hope that they will send you their next productions, all this looks very promising, especially at a price which seems resonable !
I'm sure they will. His comments were mostly constructive and he's overall positive on the brand. I think it was a good review.
I bought the xplus3 last Christmas and I love it. The best thing is that they keep updating the hardware as well as the software. The first units didn't had a container for the carbon filter mine has one and the fans that were noisy on the review in mine are quiet
Always the best reviews Angus
I love high tech 3d printer on a wobbly table.. 😂
Looks like the tabletop is suspended with rubber bands.
The PTFE tube has a push-lock on the tool head. It is easy to remove the tube when to depress the ring to release it.
Ohey a QIDI review! 😄 I'm definitely looking at getting an X-Max 3 as an upgrade if I ever decide I want to step up from the Anycubic Kobra 2 that I just got (once I've had time to actually set it up and get to know it) since it has the Bambu X1C pretty squarely beat in many measures except for multi-material printing. I'm glad to hear from you that QIDI is a solid brand to buy from.
Within a week, someone will have designed a new spool holder for it anyways. LOL. Smooth plate will help with the filaments that aren't sticking.
Nylon needs to be fed from a filament dryer anyway.
You can just put the filament peg on the back of the printer and throw away the arm.
Might already exist. I got one for the X-Max 3 that printed quickly and just hangs the dryer box from the side after inserting it into one of the handles. No issues and now it's a lot more convenient.
Really don't get why companies keep putting 'em on the back. Most of us aren't gonna care about seeing the spool and it makes it much easier to use.
@@redkingrauri3769 The only thing I can think of is that they are expecting these to be used in printer farms with printers side-by-side. That would be the only reason to put it on the back.
New spool holder STLs were live within 24 hours of your comment.
Been looking at this printer, heated chamber and klipper makes its a winner for me. Lots of those little things can be fixed pretty easily,
That looks like a real nice unit. Love the basic Klipper firmware and no clouds, that would be a showstopper for me. Price is very right and a serious contender to replace my barely-an-Ender3-anymore.
I added a short piece of clear tube to the hotend. This allows me to pull the original tube back and clip the filament at the end of the new tube. Easy-peasy.
Thank you very much for the great review. I own the X-Smart 3. It doesn’t have an active heated chamber, but I am able to print ASA with it nicely. With a print volume of 180x180x180mm the chamber is heated up by the heat of the print bed quite nicely.
What are your thoughts on the XMax3? Do you plan to review it?
That wobble made it look like it was mounted on a bouncy castle.
It reminds of the first XYZ da Vinci enclosed 3D printer I bought years ago, the wires leading to the hot-end broke from the constant back and forth motion of the printer head, I still have it boxed up and haven't gotten around to fixing it.
Great review. I hope they fix the few bugs you mention because it could be a fantastic printer.
The Bambu lab printers have had less problems than any printer that I’ve had, if you have problems it will take you to there website and 99% of the time it’s a easy fix that they walk you though. All my Enders and the clones I’m dumping. The new software that is available now for those that want to tinker. The printer has become more open source, the software that Bambu created is very good not something that forces you to move to the community software because it’s junk. Creality, elegoo and Anycubic all have junk software. The Vorn printer is made as a project printer, great printer that you will always be working on for a beginner it’s a nightmare.
@@windforward9810you sound a lot like a bot/paid poster
@@thingswelike no just a retired Disabled Veteran that has a lot of time on my hands. With my injury head it affects my writing ability, spelling and other abilities. I spend a lot of time printing because I can start the print and come back to it later due to length time used to print. I like the Bambu because it almost idiot proof. I think all of the next generation of printers are slowly getting there. To me it’s important that the display be easy to use. The original ender 3 display took me a long time to get used too, was give that printer. My CR-6 SE I have an easier time using than any of the ender 3. Level the older machines give me a lot of problems. So looking at me. I would consider me not a normal user, I did have about 5 years using different CNC machines and I was a machinist in the Navy. I’ve do have a counter your statement are you a representative of the above printer.
Bot for sure.
@@segstron No bot. I’ve been printing a long time, Run CNC machines back in the 90’s. I guess you are a bot for this company. Their is some things I hate about the Bambu if the filament is not dried and the spool adapter you can have a lot a problems, you have to print the Hydra mod to fix most of the problems. I want buy there P1P or P1S because there display screen would give me problems just like the old Enders. I have a CR -6 se display is great, I have to have the auto level because of the head injury the manual is very hard for me to get right. Love my Elegoo resin printers hated the Anycubic M5s. The Elegoo’s resin printers just work just like the GKTwo. I just don’t want to have to constantly work on a machine to make it work. The X1 Carbon fits that, resins are messy but for my miniatures I love them. So I guess not having a thought in your head makes you a bot for Qidi. lol How would I buy this printer no just base on the review here, there are others that are coming out with a AMS unit to match Bambu. The Big elegoo printer I thought about that but looking at the problems with setup and other things I would buy the Qidi before I would get it even though it’s a smaller printer. If you will only buy one mfg items you don’t always get the best product. It just like buy car I bought a VW Jetta to replace my Chevy pickup that I used to make sales calls on loved the pickup hated the gas cost than the changed the diesel formula and it was higher than gas. Loved the Jetta, but I replaced it just like these printers If you marry a brand you are going to miss out on something great. Would I buy other X-1 carbon no because there are other printers that are coming out with a larger build plate. That’s my thoughts.
I have the X Plus 3 and love it. I have a separate spool holder I made which is placed on the left side at the back. The design of the spool holder at the back does not work for me.
My X Plus 3 does not have a cleaning function. Not a problem for me.
Useful review on the Q1 Pro. Thanks.
Thanks! great vid. Do you think this would be a good option for the UV resistant filaments > ASA, PCTG & PETG? Speaking of those which UV resistant filament would you recommend for functional parts... eg a shed door handle?
I've noticed a lot of Chinese companies have the practice of not testing their firmware or updates before pushing them out. I've had my Flashforge four less than a year and it's already been subjected to 3 firmware updates that have ended up being worse for print procedure that the original firmware. I think they just come up with a "fix" that makes sense in their heads, but never send it through a trial to see how their changes impact the printing process. I know they've changed the pre- heating bed temp on each firmware update for the bed leveling process, as well as changed when the bed heats. They've also added an auto home instruction before AND after the bed leveling procedure as well as a nozzle lift before heating the nozzle (so my printer heats up 3 times, homes 3 times, and let's filament ooze from the nozzle before starting the print and dragging a huge string of oozed and boogered filament into the print area). A process that used to take 5 minutes and had almost no problems now take 30 minutes and half the time I have to abort the print because of the oozed filament getting in the way and preventing initial layer adhesion to the bed.
I’m still finishing the testing on my Q1 review and I can’t print TPU at all. Total no go with Sainsmart, oveture or Bambu 95. Like you I have observed the filament path is oversized and mine is creaking like an old ship. I’m going to try to slow it down but here and now my unit can’t print flexible.
If you think the seam is affecting clearance, then try the scarf seam in the latest Orcaslicer.
Another great review! Thanks! If you compare it with the X-Plus 3, which one do you believe it's better?
If I didn't already have 9 printers, I would grab one. (support just sent me an upgrade kit for my X-Max-3 for free and made it a fine printer). Good luck QiDi
I have the xmax3 as well. What did they send you in an upgrade kit?
@@Andrew.McDonald. I got a new print head cover front & back with an additional fan for better cooling, large flat magnet (way better than those 9 magnets it came with) an induction sensor for bed leveling instead of bltouch.
@@Slydog43UTube awesome, thank you
Overall, I've been impressed with Qidi's value. If I want to get an enclosed printer, this is likely the brand I'd consider.
is a great price. but glad i grabbed the x-plus 3 when it was on sale 2 weeks ago
still need to get it out of the box
General Thoughts on POM and Hightemp:
As someone who has managed a pretty good benchy outta it, i can tell you that it has little to do with the chamber temp. My benchy was printed at almost ambient. Getting it to Stick to the buildplate is doable, but you usually dont want it to stick to well as it will rip itself apart. The shrinkage itself will ruin every print if not carefully designed for it
Beginner in 3d printing here, will the fillament unload function cause any damage?
They say to keep the door open for PLA, but I have -never- done so on my XMax3 😂.
Even a hyper PLA 5x size bency printed for 8 hours beautifully. That air curtain works -really- well and the heat rises away as long as the lid is off 🤷🏽♀️
And, yeah, these newest QIDI releases are ABS monsters!
Blows away the competition.
The bed does seem slick, and many of us that have the new gold textured bed use a little pva glue stick with great success for the picky filaments.
The heat creep bendy filament problem may be a bit of print head design issue... The hot end cooling fan does cool the heat sink, but due to no ducting behind the front shroud, it rises up into the extruder area. That and for some reason they spaced it out from the heat sink in the Q1 🤔
The XM3 design tried to combat that heat rising with a little 20mm fan pulling the heat out of the side of the shroud. 🤦🏽♀️ I ended up modifying mine with push-pull fans for crossflow of the heat that is swiftly moved out of the head shroud.
(No videos yet, my day job kills off my free time)
Message me if youd like the photos of the fan mod. The XM3 and the new Q1 use the same modular hotend design, though the Q1 is copper core and has that beautiful hardened tip in a clad copper heat zone. 🤤
Have you seen @NoizieWorks video on the Q1?
He printed the torture toasters in a variety of materials!
I know it's not something you probably really think about since you've been in the hobby for so long but you might want to consider spending a bit more time talking about the default profiles and how well they work. A lot of people getting into 3D printing will expect to not have to do a bunch of fiddling to get prints to work properly because of how good the BL slicer is.
Just ordered one, very excited for it to come in!
Seems like a pretty easy solve for someone to design a 3D printable filament cutter that sits right on top of that print head. Crazy that Qidi didn't just include it.
Qidi actually had one in their release version of x-smart3, but later removed it for some reason.
Can i ask first layer height the techno fox was printed in, and maybe a print time? I'm looking at FDM printers that do detail reasonably well. :)
You really need to get a sturdy table. I found when changing out filament that if I keep pulling while unloading the filament can extract all the way out, but the trick was to preheat the nozzle to only about 200c and also once it starts to extract you need to pull a bit hard, but all the filament length will come back out. Trying higher temperatures ended up taking the extruder apart to clear the problem ( bulb or hook happens and jams )
I am really looking into the X-Max-3 just because it fits my needs for size and ability to print high temp, so I think I will just have to live with the quirks of these machines. Unless Bambu ever decides to make a large format machine.
Thanks for the vid :)
yay new video !
Did you notice that the part number of your machine has the initials AMS at the start, I think this has something to do with that gap in the extruder and cutting the filament, Qidi multi colour print may be on its way, what do you think ?.
Can you set the chamber temperature to use it as a filament dehydrator?
Re "doesn't heat the chamber passively using just the print bed": Unless we're talking actually pro-grade machines with proper chamber heaters capable of temps >100C, I think this is a moot distinction. A 600W heater (e.g. an AC heated bed) is ultimately just that, it's capable of producing 600W of heat, probably actually more than the heater in the Q1 Pro (I say probably because at least right now the Quidi Website seems to not list product specs, at least as far as I can find). Just by adding some fans (and optionally heatsinks) it effectively becomes an active chamber heater. A V2.4 is cabable of >70C chamber temps (I think the highest I ever saw on mine was 78 after a long PC print).
That's not to say this printer is bad/worse or anything, just wanted to illustrate that active chamber heaters aren't automatically better/more capable then "passive" bed heating.
Holy crap, that price. I'm not sure it's the right printer for me (still happy with my heavily-modded first-gen Ender 3), but seeing a Klipper-based Core X/Y with all of these QoL features at the
Got one to add to my collection of bambu printers. The little extra heat is going to be nice.
The x3 series had an integrated filament cutter in the tool head,at least my xsmart did. And it printed very well with almost any material I put in it pa 12 cf being the most difficult. But that was after a lot of messing with the printer, new extruder, inductive mesh probe, hot end and a usb c cable for the print head. I still always had issues with bed adhesion and had to make adjustments on the fly almost every print. The last straw with it was when the bearings in z axis bed guides started to shake themselves loose and fall out causing the bed to go way out of level, and every print would fail. It looks like they use the same bearings on the bed for the q1, so you may want to affix them a little better maybe some glue or there is a printable model on cults3d to secure them, I tried the printed model but the bearing holes had to much play by then and they didn’t work well.
I asked support today about if they planned for a larger version or should I go for the xmax 3 and they told me they couldn't tell me, that maybe I should go for the xmax 3. They way they said it, we might have an upcoming larger version. Well if that happens, I might pull the trigger since I love the ease of BL with user experience but they still didn't managed to sell a larger printer yet.
Looking at the way the size slots in with the smart series I doubt they will bring out a larger model.
@@petercallison5765 you could be right! Still the way it was said, I could suppose so. Anyway, time will tell, I'll bite the bullet when I'll need it.
In the Orca profiles that were uploaded by Qidi 2 days ago, they refer to the Q1Pro as being a member of the Q family of printers. Take from that what you will.
@@stew675 😮 Nice finding thanks! I'm still torn between the Qidi max 3 or a Troodon v2 pro 350mm³. Say the Arco from Phrozen but I need bigger than 300mm³ for some art projects.
That startup routine is hilarious. It does resonance compensation every print? Hopefully an easy fix..
Hmmm can a 60 degree C chamber be used for dehumidifying?? What about annealing?
Ny Ender 5 Plus with enclosure just loves ABS. I dont do it a lot because i need to move the eletronics to outside the chamber, but the quality is far superior than PLA and the speed it can go with abs is amusing.
"No cloud connectivity issues" - major positive selling point there.
What do you think of the upcoming Sovol SV08 vs the Qidi Max 3? I know you haven't tested the Sovol, but I'm interested in your thoughts.
It may be time to create a more difficult clearance castle!
Thank you for bringing this informative video
Just watched an unboxing and there was a manual Z-offset step, did you say auto z-offset?
Full auto
Thanks for yet another great review! Oh man, I'm looking to change my trusty delta printer to something newer and better; and while the Bambu Lab seems to be an obvious choice, this Qidi Q1 Pro also looks very, very promising. But with some caveats that I may not be a big fan of... However, the prerelase price right now (the offer ends in 4 days) is VERY sweet, and another 5% off if I enroll to their newsletter... so... what to do, whattodowhattodo...
Looks like an amazing price for such a printer! The only thing I was wondering: is it supposed to wobble that much when printing at high speeds?
Lol, it's the table. Everything wobbles on my carpet especially when printing so fast. Doesn't affect print quality 😊
It's not really that much smaller in build volume than the Bambu machines, only more honest: The Bambu machines have an "exclusion zone" on the front left, where the print head gets sent to activate the filament cutter. They also limit the height because they heavily rely on Z-Hop during retractions. (Yes, there are work arounds for that, but out of the box, the Bambu print volume is 237x256x250mm³).
This machine seems to be aimed squarely at the Bambu Labs X1E (a 2500$ machine), but priced like a P1P - and the only thing you give up is the AMS (i.e. auto-loading for up to 16 filaments). Paired with a proper Klipper implementation this seems to be amazing value, especially in a company setting, where Cloud Connectivity is seen as a negative, not a plus.
Also considering the things you would need an active chamber heater for mostly won't work in the AMS anyway!
I'm interested, just don't know if I'm $600 interested. Wonder if I could take my X1 and rebuild it with an active chamber heater and the electronics outside the heated area.
@@Eric_Wolfe-Schulte I think the active chamber heater is mostly for ABS and ASA - and these work beautifully from my AMS. Only the warping is bad and I really wish my X1C had a proper chamber heating (heating via the bed tops out at around 40 to 45°C for me).
@@henninghoefer I see it as more for Nylons - admittedly I'm caught up in my own use case here (PCTPE)
I might go with their max, it would be a good upgrade over the cr10 max.
Why didn't you remove the magnetic Shield before you tried to pull the tpfe tube out?
The biggest thing that will impact my decision to buy this: is everything under an open license?
Seems pretty good for the price
I’m excited for the actively heated chamber to reach more sub $1K printers!
I was about to buy Creality K1, but I think I'll get this one instead.
I would like to see a review of the Vivideno Troondon Klipper printers inspired by voron! They sell on the formbot website
The flashforge 5m series has the same weird filament change procedure.
I wonder what the internals actually are... does the klipper firmware and linux system run on the same 64 bit MCU or is there some custom board and a Raspberry Pi clone? How is the touchscreen connected? Klipperscreen and HDMI or some custom interface?
The previous generation used makerbase boards. Like the bigtreetech manta boards, but the cb1 is integrated into the Mainboard and not plugged into. Most Linux cpus dont have enough input/output suitable for controlling a printer directly, so there is likely a microcontroller responsibility for the xyz motion and bed as well as a separate mcu in the toolhead, connected over a uart connection, not canbus like most think (you can go through the configs of all sold klipper printer from creality, qidi or similar and you won't find any canbus address).
in terms of nylon and CF would you choose the X-CF Pro over this printer? I understand there is a price difference.
Vector3D mentioned that the version of Klipper in his review unit is an old, outdated version that cannot be updated. Do you know if Kiauh can uninstall that version of Klipper to reinstall vanilla Klipper?
It uses Makerbase boards and Makerbase has instructions on how to reflash them. But you'll have to reconfigure and re-tune all the components that are not Makerbase for them to work properly (motors, etc.). I believe they said the screen won't work, so you'll have to replace that.
You could re-flash but there's no reason to. Prints beautifully right out of the box, no reason to waste your valuable time. After all, plug and play is why you buy a turn key unit like this. It's for people who have work to get done, not for those who enjoy messing around fixing and tuning printers.
That pre print nozzle cleaning and leveling is very similar to lulzbots Taz 6 and that machine is 6 years old 😅
Thanks, Angus. An interesting machine, especially if you are in a position to have several machines for different purposes. But don't think Bambu Lab will be shaking in their pants.
I printed a 10 10 10mm cube on my ender 3
When I measure it bottom layer is accurate but gradually decreased top layers to 9.8 9.8 9.8mm please help me sir
Can yo review the cr 10 se”?
12:49 the Jcar near me shutdown I wonder were it was moved to.
@MakersMuse why raw PA12 instead of PCTPE?
Availability and price mostly, but I do want to try more alternatives
@@MakersMuse for what it's worth, my limited experiments into pctpe have thus far been encouraging!
Ive been using a x-plus at a makerspace for like 3 years and i want one so bad but cant find one
What concerns me as if the chamber gets really hot if rhat plastic door eill warp and go out of place lettint out heat.
It wont.
When are you going to review the ender 3 v3?
The baby stepping thing is a klipper issue, nothing to do with the printer. Great review🎉
Just a heads up. I was subscribed to your channel but I had not seen anything from you in quite a while so I clicked on one of my saved videos and somehow I was Unsubscribed. You may want to ask your followers to check their subscriptions.
I love your videos, entertaining, informative and not a lot of BS. Thank you for the valuable information and I have learned a great deal from your videos.
Looks like it has pretty good potential though :) would love to see an update a few firmware versions in
Loving mine on day one!
Angus is one of the very few reviewers that I trust. He doesn't sell his soul for money.
I have the Xmax3 and they added this quirky filament change process to it as well with the last Firmware update. I do not like it, and have also knocked the cable mangement loose and also find it difficult to remove the PTFE tubing. The reason they did this is because of major clogging issues with the previous method, which required you to manually pull on the filament on the back of the printer as it fed out. I have not had a clog with this new method as of yet, so it did address the issue, but is certainly not ideal. I just set the dry box they sent with printer next to the printer on the table it works fine and provides easy access for change.
Do you have plans to revieaw the creality K1C?
This crushes it
I need an enclosed printer that can print abs at minimum. its really hard to make up my mind, I dont want to get a printer which ill have to work on 24/7 if I want to print something. but I dont want to get a Bambu lab printer due to it going to take ages to arrive.
I've done a big ASA print on a Prusa Mini, and you can build an enclosure for it for around $80
followed the purchase link and it says early bird special ends in 14 days but the price is $699?
What kind of pla did you use in the video ? I have pla but its 4 to 5 years old 😅
Some of it is about that old! Some get a little stringy or brittle but still tend to work OK
But what is Angus's fursona?
That's an exciting printer! I was considering it until you showed the filament path in the extruder, and how bad it is at TPU as a result.
Deal breaker.
He wasn't using good filament and his settings likely needed to be tuned. TPU is a fairly sensitive material and everything from manufacturer, age of filament, temperature, and speed matters. Filament path is the same as any other direct drive printer.
Polymaker 95a- HF is as good as it gets, even works with Bowden extruders. Their provided profile limits flow to only 4mm3/s and it's still unreliable. The extruder gear tension is way too high for it so it deforms then quickly jams. Fixable with a hardware update for sure
@@MakersMuse that's what I saw too, my current 3D printer (CR-10V3, has a E3D direct drive) can print softer TPUs at higher flow than 4mm3/s. It has a tighter guide below the extruder gear. A simple plastic part but it works.
It shouldn't be too difficult to make that better based on what you showed with a replacement part.
Making it a very short filament path won't happen with this extruder tho.
With units already in warehouses, you probably reviewed what customers will receive.
You sit it on a lawn chair or something?
Thank you for the review! I always appreciate your thorough coverage.
If I can make one suggestion it would be your thumbnail and title. From the perspective of someone new to 3D printing, they would have no idea that that is what you are talking about. The thumbnail does not make it clear what the topic is, and the title lists the name of the printer, but if I've never heard of Qidi, then I'd never know and may skip over the video.
The video itself though, great as always.
For POM is use ABS Slush , with slow speed and small part, in NOT closed printer
I want to make key chains/bad tags for my sons high school band. They are state winners and I would like to commemorate this with these. What material should I print these in? I want them to last and not be too brittle.
Hard TPU, like 75D. Will never break.
Zack Freedman has a fairly comprehensive tier list video that might give you a good sense of the filament space.
Thank you.@@JohnBackstrand
@@zachgullerman3183 I find his manic vibe to be a bit over the top but yeah , good info if you can endure.
There is no ventilation for the fumes right? So you'd need to customize the top door for this to be safe. Otherwise fumes get stuck until you open it and take a deep breath while getting your print off the bed. If you think about it an open printer with a ventilated tent is better than this in terms of safety.
I'm thinking of using an internal circulating filter like the Bentobox or the Nevermore.
There's a fan on the backside that sucks air out through a carbon filter. You'd still want to use either an exhaust hood or a tent and exhaust system with these same as any 3D printer.
Wow! Now I want one... too bad I have no work for it ...
FFS Angus get a sturdy table!!! I get motion sickness watching your videos
Yeah, it's mostly the carpet unfortunately. It's a one day fix
@@MakersMuse Carpet? Wow i thought it was a bouncy castle lol
Or just mount the camera to the table the printer is on
Try printing some Jabil 4535 for your robots. That stuff has 35% CF and is crazy strong.