Outstanding engineering as usual. While I am not making an RC ship I got my motors working good. Although my Pontos wing propellers do wobble a little. I just could not get the hole to fit the shafts squared up perfectly. I used the center propeller from the Trumpeter kit and it spins perfectly. My rudder is movable like the old 1/350 scale Titanic, which the how to idea came from you and I made sure people watching my video know that. You are an engineering genius. Thanks for the ideas.
Hi, thanks for your comment. Yes I found my pontos props wobble too. If you look closely they arnt quite true! I think really the solution would be to drill out oversize then manufacture some threaded inserts. But I can’t do that! Can you send me a link to your videos? I’d quite like to have a watch 🙂
@@TheModelBoatGuy You can search for Trumpeter Titanic and you will see my channel name Daryl W. Here is a link to my superstructure video. Hopefully it works. I think it is part 5 of my series so far. th-cam.com/video/oQX_PKad_BM/w-d-xo.html
Just watched it, great video! I will defiantly apply your methods for the superstructure, I’ve been trying to work out what will be the best way of getting those parts together myself so that was a big help!
Very impressive!! Aye the central prop was ahead only, one of the reasons she hit the berg was they put the engines into reverse so the rudder propeller wasn't turning.
Very nice layout. Have you considered putting some microswitches on the motors to cut the inboard motor when apply a significant amount of rudder. I fitted the microswitches by the rudder arm so that the arm touched on to a "switch to break" on the motor power line and cut off to the inner motor only. I did this with a 1:96 Type 22 Frigate and it did improve maneuvering quite a lot.
No worries, glad it’s of help. RC is a bit of a mine field when you start, loads of different manufacturers doing things slightly differently. The internet’s a great source of help though! Glad you’re enjoying the videos 🙂
You cant buy the upgrade kit anymore. I tried it last week but he is sold out and don 't know if and when he can sell them again. Can't wait to see your next vid. Great work. 👍
Yeah, I tried to order too and was told they're all sold out. I asked if another production run would be coming anytime soon. He stated that another production run is going to be done, but NOT anytime soon. He also said that there was going to be a price increase. He didn't have any further details of when or how much.
Hi model boat guy I have a question for what type of servo motor mount did you use and where did you get it from and the automatic oiling system where did you buy it from
I made the servo mount myself from bits of wood. The automatic oil system is something I’ve made myself too, but I would suggest grease is a better lubricant than oil.
Could you put multiple smoke generators? Make multiple uptake but put more to one stack than the other because there's never same amount of smoke out of all the stacks, maybe full speed at sea?
I am considering it, until i have the funnels plumbed in i cant really tell how much smoke im going to get out of them. Its all a bit of a balancing act because the generators are quite current hungry. But it wont be hard to add an additional one if i need. The other thing i suspect is that unless its a very still day i reckon the smoke will be blown away quite quickly anyway. So it might be a bit of an indoor party piece!
They are epoxied into the ship. The actual motors rest on a layer of rubber to dampen down the vibrations as much as possible. I have also cast the prop shafts into the Hull using resin
Very smart let’s just hope you continue the good work And let’s hope this radio control Titanic works properly Also one question are you going to Close of the portholes because water could seep through
Great, very informative as usual sir! Your video's are good. Clearly you have an (A) in electronics! Ever thought of squeezing a little sound board and speaker in for the ships horn sound?!!! Rudder turned out really well. I have just ordered the Scale the Titanic PE sheets. I aim to convert them for my Olympic use. I just couldn't put up with the thick plastic profile, especially on the Promenade deck. I have tried to thin it down but it started to distort badly, so it has to go! The brass will be more to scale for my needs. Boat moulding is working well BTW! Anyway looking forward to the good stuff you are going to be doing soon. A wooden veneer deck manufacturer recommends a spray of matt varnish before anything is attached so to avoid accidental staining etc. Good luck with the next progression. Regards JH ;-)
For context im an electrical engineer, so i should be getting that stuff haha! I have flirted with the idea of sound yeah, i quite fancied having a very faint bit of music playing for the band, just really faint so you can just hear it as if they were playing within the ship somewhere. Maybe that will come at some point, space is constrained! Yeah, if i hadnt wanted to have my superstructure removable id 100% be getting the PE sheets too, they are just amazing. I get what you mean about the thick plastic! In my case its actually quite useful as it adds a load of rigidity to the superstructure, but as you're doing a static model brass will defiantly look a whole load better. Looking forward to seeing this model of yours btw! Are you sticking with the silicone moulding for your boats? i havent got round to mine yet, its on the list but too many things to do. Definatly going to use matt varnish on my wooden decks, im hoping to get the scaledecks ones which are just gorgeous but they're not cheap so defiantly dont want to stain them by accident!
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yes I agree, you need a much more durable hull for running the model in water rather than a wafer thin version like I will have in a glass case! I think you are being bold with the Pontos additions as it is! The 'sound' idea sounds great, I think you can get some really small boards now and sample sounds to them, so it's worth thinking about. Having the ships horn belting away would sound cool too! My PE sheets will take a while to arrive so I cant really do much yet anyway. Yes they look stunning and I am looking forward to playing with those. The silicon boat moulds were fine. Resin can have micro bubbles which are annoying but I have moulded sufficient boats now for 48 nested. See my other response regarding the collapsible boats. I will look at the varnish that you mentioned. Regards JH ;-)
In an early video you showed prop shaft tubes that were 6mm OD without oil ports. In a later video, 9 or10, you show prop shaft tubes with oilers. Could you please let me know the source for these. They need to have a 6mm OD. Could you also indicate the lengths of the shaft tubes. Thanks in advance.
Hey, the prop shaft tubes are 6mm yeah. Then I just drilled and tapped them and added the oilers in. The prop shaft tubes don’t have to be 6mm but I found that was the best size as the actual prop shafts are 4mm which is ideal to accept the pontos propellers. I also prefer thicker prop shafts where posible as they are more rigid and run more true. I think 6mm is about as thick as you will her through the wing prop mounts. I think I bought the oilers of ebay: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282899243083
Hi, I did consider that yeah. My concern was I didn’t think there would be enough material in the prop shafts to adequately hold the nipple in place. There is hardly one turn in the prop shafts threading and I thought if I’m using a grease gun under moderate pressure there’s a chance the nipple will just come out. It’s a shame really because grease is probably a more appropriate lubricant for that application but hey ho!
Wow. You really know this ship...using CAD and everything else. Very fun to watch.
Thanks!
Outstanding engineering as usual. While I am not making an RC ship I got my motors working good. Although my Pontos wing propellers do wobble a little. I just could not get the hole to fit the shafts squared up perfectly. I used the center propeller from the Trumpeter kit and it spins perfectly. My rudder is movable like the old 1/350 scale Titanic, which the how to idea came from you and I made sure people watching my video know that. You are an engineering genius. Thanks for the ideas.
Hi, thanks for your comment. Yes I found my pontos props wobble too. If you look closely they arnt quite true! I think really the solution would be to drill out oversize then manufacture some threaded inserts. But I can’t do that! Can you send me a link to your videos? I’d quite like to have a watch 🙂
@@TheModelBoatGuy You can search for Trumpeter Titanic and you will see my channel name Daryl W. Here is a link to my superstructure video. Hopefully it works. I think it is part 5 of my series so far.
th-cam.com/video/oQX_PKad_BM/w-d-xo.html
Just watched it, great video! I will defiantly apply your methods for the superstructure, I’ve been trying to work out what will be the best way of getting those parts together myself so that was a big help!
I absolutely love it. You're certainly doing the ship justice. Well done.
I realize I am quite off topic but does anyone know a good website to watch new series online ?
Whoa your stern color pattern is beautiful! Looks even more amazing with that rudder!!!!
thanks! yes i would highly recommend that rudder. really adds to the ships profile
Your certainly the best builder I’m gonna probably buy this model boat in inspiration of you :D
Thanks 😀 it’s a great model like, you will have a good time building it!
Very impressive!! Aye the central prop was ahead only, one of the reasons she hit the berg was they put the engines into reverse so the rudder propeller wasn't turning.
yes its quite striking actually when you sail her how much the speed of the central prop effects her turning ability!
Brilliant video man. Looks incredible so far and soo informative as a new to boat building here. Cheers
Glad to be of help, it’s a great hobby to get into. Let me know if there are aspects that I’m not covering and I’ll try to include them in!
Thanks for the detail in the electronics! It has definitely helped me!
Very nice layout. Have you considered putting some microswitches on the motors to cut the inboard motor when apply a significant amount of rudder. I fitted the microswitches by the rudder arm so that the arm touched on to a "switch to break" on the motor power line and cut off to the inner motor only. I did this with a 1:96 Type 22 Frigate and it did improve maneuvering quite a lot.
Oh..excellent work btw
Hi creat video, I have no idea in Rc ,your video is a great source of information 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 loving this series, well done👏👏👏👏
No worries, glad it’s of help. RC is a bit of a mine field when you start, loads of different manufacturers doing things slightly differently. The internet’s a great source of help though! Glad you’re enjoying the videos 🙂
You cant buy the upgrade kit anymore.
I tried it last week but he is sold out and don 't know if and when he can sell them again.
Can't wait to see your next vid.
Great work. 👍
Arno Elshof I’ll try seeing it too
Ooh Crikey ok, I’ll pop a card in the video saying that. Don’t want to give people the wrong idea. There are a few on eBay but they arnt cheap!
Yeah, I tried to order too and was told they're all sold out. I asked if another production run would be coming anytime soon. He stated that another production run is going to be done, but NOT anytime soon. He also said that there was going to be a price increase. He didn't have any further details of when or how much.
Nice.
🤩🤩👌👌
Hi model boat guy I have a question for what type of servo motor mount did you use and where did you get it from and the automatic oiling system where did you buy it from
I made the servo mount myself from bits of wood. The automatic oil system is something I’ve made myself too, but I would suggest grease is a better lubricant than oil.
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks for the advice I might get a 3D printer and make the servo mount and I’ll build the oiling system from the clear pvc plastic
Your intro makes you sound like a cheerful obiwan kenobi :)
Thanks! theres worse people to sound like!!
Could you put multiple smoke generators? Make multiple uptake but put more to one stack than the other because there's never same amount of smoke out of all the stacks, maybe full speed at sea?
I am considering it, until i have the funnels plumbed in i cant really tell how much smoke im going to get out of them. Its all a bit of a balancing act because the generators are quite current hungry. But it wont be hard to add an additional one if i need.
The other thing i suspect is that unless its a very still day i reckon the smoke will be blown away quite quickly anyway. So it might be a bit of an indoor party piece!
First run Pontos kit now sold out, the much better KA set will start again this month...
I might have a feeling that the kit will be much more expensive.
Just wondering how you mounted the motors?
They are epoxied into the ship. The actual motors rest on a layer of rubber to dampen down the vibrations as much as possible. I have also cast the prop shafts into the Hull using resin
Very smart let’s just hope you continue the good work And let’s hope this radio control Titanic works properly
Also one question are you going to Close of the portholes because water could seep through
i have filled the portholes with UV resin so as yet i havent had any issues!
Great, very informative as usual sir! Your video's are good. Clearly you have an (A) in electronics! Ever thought of squeezing a little sound board and speaker in for the ships horn sound?!!! Rudder turned out really well. I have just ordered the Scale the Titanic PE sheets. I aim to convert them for my Olympic use. I just couldn't put up with the thick plastic profile, especially on the Promenade deck. I have tried to thin it down but it started to distort badly, so it has to go! The brass will be more to scale for my needs. Boat moulding is working well BTW! Anyway looking forward to the good stuff you are going to be doing soon. A wooden veneer deck manufacturer recommends a spray of matt varnish before anything is attached so to avoid accidental staining etc. Good luck with the next progression. Regards JH ;-)
For context im an electrical engineer, so i should be getting that stuff haha! I have flirted with the idea of sound yeah, i quite fancied having a very faint bit of music playing for the band, just really faint so you can just hear it as if they were playing within the ship somewhere. Maybe that will come at some point, space is constrained!
Yeah, if i hadnt wanted to have my superstructure removable id 100% be getting the PE sheets too, they are just amazing. I get what you mean about the thick plastic! In my case its actually quite useful as it adds a load of rigidity to the superstructure, but as you're doing a static model brass will defiantly look a whole load better. Looking forward to seeing this model of yours btw!
Are you sticking with the silicone moulding for your boats? i havent got round to mine yet, its on the list but too many things to do.
Definatly going to use matt varnish on my wooden decks, im hoping to get the scaledecks ones which are just gorgeous but they're not cheap so defiantly dont want to stain them by accident!
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yes I agree, you need a much more durable hull for running the model in water rather than a wafer thin version like I will have in a glass case!
I think you are being bold with the Pontos additions as it is! The 'sound' idea sounds great, I think you can get some really small boards now and sample sounds to them, so it's worth thinking about. Having the ships horn belting away would sound cool too! My PE sheets will take a while to arrive so I cant really do much yet anyway. Yes they look stunning and I am looking forward to playing with those. The silicon boat moulds were fine. Resin can have micro bubbles which are annoying but I have moulded sufficient boats now for 48 nested. See my other response regarding the collapsible boats. I will look at the varnish that you mentioned. Regards JH ;-)
In an early video you showed prop shaft tubes that were 6mm OD without oil ports. In a later video, 9 or10, you show prop shaft tubes with oilers. Could you please let me know the source for these. They need to have a 6mm OD. Could you also indicate the lengths of the shaft tubes. Thanks in advance.
Hey, the prop shaft tubes are 6mm yeah. Then I just drilled and tapped them and added the oilers in. The prop shaft tubes don’t have to be 6mm but I found that was the best size as the actual prop shafts are 4mm which is ideal to accept the pontos propellers. I also prefer thicker prop shafts where posible as they are more rigid and run more true. I think 6mm is about as thick as you will her through the wing prop mounts.
I think I bought the oilers of ebay: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282899243083
Couldn't you have used grease instead of the oil in the prop shafts, then just have grease nippes for any maintenance. Good video :)
Hi, I did consider that yeah. My concern was I didn’t think there would be enough material in the prop shafts to adequately hold the nipple in place. There is hardly one turn in the prop shafts threading and I thought if I’m using a grease gun under moderate pressure there’s a chance the nipple will just come out.
It’s a shame really because grease is probably a more appropriate lubricant for that application but hey ho!
If the centre shaft was cut 5mm shorter you could have kept the outer shafts straight
Wait, the engines are Mfa??? Those are RMS Lusitania’s call letters!!
Haha never clocked that? Good bit of info that 😀
Hola