You could put some people on the ground of your "dry dock" and really make it stand out! Loving the build, dreading reaching the end, its like a show you never want to stop watching
Thank you for doing such a thorough job of recording and documenting your work for us. Beside your modeling work being excellent and your attention to detail unwavering, I appreciate you modeling to a display level on this water going RC example. Thanks from the States!
i'm really enjoying watching your build, i fly r/c and build scale models and have done for decades, your videos join the dots. great modelling and keep them coming
make some workers in the the same scale as the ship is in and make them some ladders, give them some tools and paint cans! That hade been absolutely amazing for your *drydock* thx for another great episode!
Hello, I have been watching some of your videos and you have a very beautiful and incredible Titanic, but I have a question, why can the 3D KA pieces be cut without the need to heat a knife, while the China 3D pieces do need it?
To be honest there isn’t really a single reason. KA parts tend to have the support material on the bottom, so you can cut and then sand. Whereas China 3D have support everywhere so you have to me much more careful to remove support material delicately. But the main reason is that generally China 3D parts are more delicate so they need to be removed very slowly, where as KA are far more robust
@@TheModelBoatGuyThanks for the clarification, I now better understand the difference in strength and support of the parts. I appreciate the explanation.
There’s a few people on it, see my final videos. I added a couple of people which are meant to be Bruce Ismay and Lord Pirrie, they really convey the scale of the model
Do an oil wash inbetween the hatch strings that'll pick out the detail lovely and maybe a burnt umber round the top edges picking out the creses with a very mild weathering effect of some dust n dirt blown across and catching on the raised edges! Doubt they'd have been gleaming white all the time especially with it being Olympic and sailing a few trips before theain launch haha
might be a good idea to clear coat the details like the winches, and slap some dark wash made from artist oil paints on them, that will really make them pop and show alot more of the details.
Yeah I intend to clear coat the whole deck once all fixings are in place. I am tempted to do some specific weathering on a few places, but as yet haven’t. I’ll maybe experiment with the non glued winches and see what we get, and if it’s good I can apply to the glued winches
Loving the videos and your attention to detail. I have a question about a crane you built in Video 18. My question is posted there. Keep the videos coming I love following what you are doing.
Hi Rob, now you are doing the good stuff! Salad in the winter?......Hmmm! I love looking at the detailed stuff, totally brilliant items, almost a model in their own right. The book Titanic the Magnificent does state that the 3 big steam winches were actually black and the smaller electric winches were the dark green as you have done but with black whipping ends! However it's pretty dark so leave well alone if you have already positioned the steam winches! The scaledecks really help get the details to pop out nicely. great job! How about putting a ship worker down by the rudder?! Stay safe! Regards JH :-)
Aah I had a foodie and boozy Christmas so salad is now the order of the day! Yeah the detailed stuff is great, so fiddly but well worth the effort. And in the winter when there’s not much daylight quite a nice way to spend some time! Hope you are keeping well? Ah I don’t have a copy of TTSM sadly, I am planning on getting it one day, sadly yeah the winches are glued down now so no moving them now! As you say it is a dark colour anyway. Cheers, and stay safe! Rob
@@TheModelBoatGuy Hi Rob, yes all ok with me. I am fortunate to live in a small village miles away from the hoards so this covid thing does not bother me too much! I have now finished my wooden ship.....Yeah and funnily enough now building the display case from acrylic sheeting. It is still heavier than I imagined it to be and er rather large! I Like your Titanic display case, pretty reasonably priced although that is light years away from being needed at the moment! I will just get this display case done and then have a tentative look at the Olympic, yikes! Take your time with the detailed work. You take care out there and stay safe too! Regards JH ;-)
Awesome video. Kinda wish you slowed down the build process of the crane lol. I’m having trouble finding where a very small part M07 goes. Could you possibly clarify. Do it go in the little indentation on part N18 before I fold it? Any help would be awesome.
Well I have a few left to go so can do a slower take if you want. But yes M07 gets folded in two to give the look of a thicker wheel, and is then added to the circular indentation in piece M19. Instructions arnt clear there, I remember having to look at some pictures of the actual cranes on Olympic for clarification
Agreed, I am going to do that. I was thinking of using a few of the bits and bobs I got in the set that I won’t be using like the anchor chains too to add a bit of shipyard paraphernalia. I’ll deffo add some people though once she’s complete 😀
No way is that dark mast colour matt flesh!!? I really like the colour you used for that and was going to use matt sand, but never in a million years would I have thought to use flesh! My mind is blown!! Love the black hatches too, I'm building the 1/350 kit and used black also, after reading an article with photos that indicate that that was most likely the correct colour... matt flash... who would of thunk it?! BZ
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Yeah I like the black hatches, I think it makes them stand out a wee bit more. Thanks re the dark mast, like everything titanic it’s a bit of guess work to see what colour it should be, but I do like the flesh colour. I think over the area I have, it looks dark enough. Whether it’s accurate or not is another debate! It was humbrol 61 though, indeed who would have have thunk it 😅
tech tip, grab a sewing needle and cut open the eye of the needle, so you get a two pronged fork, stick the pointy end of the needle in a suitable handle (some chopsticks or similar) and presto, you made yourself an awesome CA applicator for working with both medium an thin CA. When it inevitably gets clocked, break out a lighter and burn off the residue. I've been meaning to ask you, what's the brand of the acrylic UV resin you used for the windows?
Hi, that is a brilliant idea. I will get some needles. Thanks for the tip! Re the resin, this is what was used: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TXWYV92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yaPsFbR6CEEXS I tend to draw it into a syringe covered in black tape and use it like that.
Hi there, the floor of the stand is made of a sort of grey velvet material. I didn’t make that myself, I had the whole case made by a case builder, but I’d have thought it would be quite easy to install yourself!
Hi Missed where u paint the grey on crane bases… how did you mask… same for the other buildings that are the blue grey on top there is always a recessed and lip around the edge?
Hi there, I tended to use a good quality modelling masking tape. Something like Tamiya. www.wonderlandmodels.com/tamiya-masking-tape-1mm/ This like is to the shop I buy most modelling stuff from. The tape here is probably too thin, but it’s this product range. As far as I’m aware there was always a lip around the edges of deck housings yes! Hope this is of some help?
My case is 56" long, 7.5" wide and 17.5" high. This is something that you can spec yourself though. My case is relatively small as my flat is small, so i wanted to keep things as compact as i could. However if you have the room i would advocate going for something a little larger. It makes putting the case over the model a much easier task for sure!
Beautiful modelling of the drydock, but I can see 2 problems with displaying the model in this way: 1) All of the figures you have prepared for an "afternoon at sea" wouldn't be promenading on deck with the ship in drydock, and 2) The only time the ship was in drydock was while under construction, and when it was launched on May 31, 1911 virtually the entire superstructure had not yet been built up. This construction was completed while the hull was afloat. Doesn't really matter for display, of course, but just a technical observation offered.
Bronze green it would have been most likely same as what was used throughout the war for British tank's etc I've seen it on some of the machines in the old Dute Mills here in Scotland vallejo do a nice accurate bronze green Tamiya changed all there greens a while back so the tones are all to buggery now!
Great work. Getting lots of good tips for my build. Also installed rc gear. I’ve been happy with 3 custom cases from www.acrylicjob.com In the US. Scroll down the page to estimate cost for custom cases. Not the elegant wood framing, but great protection and display for a static model. Ships flat and easy to assemble without tools or adhesive. My last purchase was for a 1:200 Hornet. Happy building, Dudley
The way you‘ve ordered the keel blocks is not correct. On the pictures in the video, the arrangement is shown when there is no ship in drydock. If there is a ship in drydock, these blocks are spread over the whole bottom of the ship. The Titanic had a shallow keel, so a flat bottom with a structural keel construction and bilge keels on both sides for stability. But anyhow; nice build of course!
aaah thats makes sense actually! fair enough, to be fair its really just to give the effect more than anything. Its amazing how stable the model feels on the base actually, i was a little worried about it
Up for debate I think! I wouldn’t like to say for definite one way or the other. But the renderings I have been using suffers black. I think it’s one of those things that will never be known for sure, best to go with what you like more!
They certainly are money pits! I think the next project i do will have to be a lot cheaper than this. I guess it’s still quite a new kit at the moment, if you give it a few months you might find it starts to come down in price a bit?
I chose 53” length, 7” wide, and 17” tall. Note though that this makes a very close fitting case! Essential for me because I don’t have very much space to put it, but if you have more space I’d consider expanding those dimensions a bit. Colours wise I chose Oak and the base colour was Ash
@@TheModelBoatGuy im presuming you meant 63” long not 53, otherwise you cuttinbf part of the ship off hah! Iv just asked for quotes frok another person as the firm you recommended hasnt replied unfortunatly. Getting quotes for perspex/ glass and safety glass as mine may be displayed sometime!
Mate, this series of videos is just so relaxing and satisfying
I’m really looking forward to seeing the superstructure lit up. The dry dock is looking amazing and it’s brilliant. I’m enjoying your videos a lot!
I'm impressed at the level of detail on the deck planking.
Yeah it’s a really good product. I think really it’s my favourite of all the addons I’ve used on this model
You could put some people on the ground of your "dry dock" and really make it stand out! Loving the build, dreading reaching the end, its like a show you never want to stop watching
Absolutely
Thank you for doing such a thorough job of recording and documenting your work for us. Beside your modeling work being excellent and your attention to detail unwavering, I appreciate you modeling to a display level on this water going RC example. Thanks from the States!
Thanks! It’s a good project to learn from as I go. I find recording it stops me rushing things so it helps me out too 😀
i'm really enjoying watching your build, i fly r/c and build scale models and have done for decades, your videos join the dots. great modelling and keep them coming
make some workers in the the same scale as the ship is in and make them some ladders, give them some tools and paint cans! That hade been absolutely amazing for your *drydock* thx for another great episode!
Great looking model. I served my time as a Ships Draughtsmn in John Browns so I love this stuff 👍
Ah wow what great job. Such a skill! Must have been so exciting to see the shops building up around you. Glad you’re enjoying the videos 😃
After watching , Im wanting to get this SHIP , LOL not a boat ! Must say you are doing a fantastic job of this great ship, very impressed 😊
I know, i keep calling her a boat. Im used to subs so it comes as second nature!
Was thinking of doing a dry dock display myself. You've shown me the way! Brilliant job
Ah good stuff, great minds...! Hope your dry dock goes well.
Thanks for the comment 🙂
As long as you weren't tossing salad.. Oh, hell. Moving along. 😆
Build is coming along splendly.
haha yes move along swiftly! Thanks, hopefully she will be finished in 2021!
The pieces are calling mandrels are actually called whip ends and you’re doing a fantastic job I’ve ordered mine and can’t wait to start
Hello, I have been watching some of your videos and you have a very beautiful and incredible Titanic, but I have a question, why can the 3D KA pieces be cut without the need to heat a knife, while the China 3D pieces do need it?
To be honest there isn’t really a single reason.
KA parts tend to have the support material on the bottom, so you can cut and then sand. Whereas China 3D have support everywhere so you have to me much more careful to remove support material delicately. But the main reason is that generally China 3D parts are more delicate so they need to be removed very slowly, where as KA are far more robust
@@TheModelBoatGuyThanks for the clarification, I now better understand the difference in strength and support of the parts. I appreciate the explanation.
Salad... sure. Love the progress btw
😂 it was! Cheers
Loving the drydock stand Idea. All it really needs I think are a couple of drydock workers if you had any scale people to spare.
There’s a few people on it, see my final videos. I added a couple of people which are meant to be Bruce Ismay and Lord Pirrie, they really convey the scale of the model
Do an oil wash inbetween the hatch strings that'll pick out the detail lovely and maybe a burnt umber round the top edges picking out the creses with a very mild weathering effect of some dust n dirt blown across and catching on the raised edges! Doubt they'd have been gleaming white all the time especially with it being Olympic and sailing a few trips before theain launch haha
Ah yes.. it’s all coming to Together she’s coming back to life!!!
small but alive!!!
might be a good idea to clear coat the details like the winches, and slap some dark wash made from artist oil paints on them, that will really make them pop and show alot more of the details.
Yeah I intend to clear coat the whole deck once all fixings are in place. I am tempted to do some specific weathering on a few places, but as yet haven’t. I’ll maybe experiment with the non glued winches and see what we get, and if it’s good I can apply to the glued winches
Loving the videos and your attention to detail. I have a question about a crane you built in Video 18. My question is posted there. Keep the videos coming I love following what you are doing.
Hi Rob, now you are doing the good stuff! Salad in the winter?......Hmmm! I love looking at the detailed stuff, totally brilliant items, almost a model in their own right. The book Titanic the Magnificent does state that the 3 big steam winches were actually black and the smaller electric winches were the dark green as you have done but with black whipping ends!
However it's pretty dark so leave well alone if you have already positioned the steam winches! The scaledecks really help get the details to pop out nicely. great job! How about putting a ship worker down by the rudder?! Stay safe! Regards JH :-)
Aah I had a foodie and boozy Christmas so salad is now the order of the day!
Yeah the detailed stuff is great, so fiddly but well worth the effort. And in the winter when there’s not much daylight quite a nice way to spend some time!
Hope you are keeping well?
Ah I don’t have a copy of TTSM sadly, I am planning on getting it one day, sadly yeah the winches are glued down now so no moving them now! As you say it is a dark colour anyway.
Cheers, and stay safe! Rob
@@TheModelBoatGuy Hi Rob, yes all ok with me. I am fortunate to live in a small village miles away from the hoards so this covid thing does not bother me too much! I have now finished my wooden ship.....Yeah and funnily enough now building the display case from acrylic sheeting. It is still heavier than I imagined it to be and er rather large! I Like your Titanic display case, pretty reasonably priced although that is light years away from being needed at the moment! I will just get this display case done and then have a tentative look at the Olympic, yikes! Take your time with the detailed work. You take care out there and stay safe too! Regards JH ;-)
Awesome video. Kinda wish you slowed down the build process of the crane lol. I’m having trouble finding where a very small part M07 goes. Could you possibly clarify. Do it go in the little indentation on part N18 before I fold it? Any help would be awesome.
Well I have a few left to go so can do a slower take if you want.
But yes M07 gets folded in two to give the look of a thicker wheel, and is then added to the circular indentation in piece M19. Instructions arnt clear there, I remember having to look at some pictures of the actual cranes on Olympic for clarification
Since you did a dry dock chalks to the set, I'd use a few of the figures and set it next to it, to give a certain scale on how gigantic the ship was.
Agreed, I am going to do that. I was thinking of using a few of the bits and bobs I got in the set that I won’t be using like the anchor chains too to add a bit of shipyard paraphernalia. I’ll deffo add some people though once she’s complete 😀
No way is that dark mast colour matt flesh!!? I really like the colour you used for that and was going to use matt sand, but never in a million years would I have thought to use flesh! My mind is blown!! Love the black hatches too, I'm building the 1/350 kit and used black also, after reading an article with photos that indicate that that was most likely the correct colour... matt flash... who would of thunk it?!
BZ
Hi! Thanks for the comment. Yeah I like the black hatches, I think it makes them stand out a wee bit more.
Thanks re the dark mast, like everything titanic it’s a bit of guess work to see what colour it should be, but I do like the flesh colour. I think over the area I have, it looks dark enough. Whether it’s accurate or not is another debate! It was humbrol 61 though, indeed who would have have thunk it 😅
tech tip, grab a sewing needle and cut open the eye of the needle, so you get a two pronged fork, stick the pointy end of the needle in a suitable handle (some chopsticks or similar) and presto, you made yourself an awesome CA applicator for working with both medium an thin CA.
When it inevitably gets clocked, break out a lighter and burn off the residue.
I've been meaning to ask you, what's the brand of the acrylic UV resin you used for the windows?
Hi, that is a brilliant idea. I will get some needles. Thanks for the tip!
Re the resin, this is what was used:
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TXWYV92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yaPsFbR6CEEXS
I tend to draw it into a syringe covered in black tape and use it like that.
Beautiful! :) What is the material, the black material along the all stand... Some kind of veneer? Thank you! :)
Hi there, the floor of the stand is made of a sort of grey velvet material. I didn’t make that myself, I had the whole case made by a case builder, but I’d have thought it would be quite easy to install yourself!
What color did you use for the well decks. The orange, peachy colour under the white?
Lovely!
Hi Missed where u paint the grey on crane bases… how did you mask… same for the other buildings that are the blue grey on top there is always a recessed and lip around the edge?
Hi there,
I tended to use a good quality modelling masking tape. Something like Tamiya.
www.wonderlandmodels.com/tamiya-masking-tape-1mm/
This like is to the shop I buy most modelling stuff from. The tape here is probably too thin, but it’s this product range.
As far as I’m aware there was always a lip around the edges of deck housings yes!
Hope this is of some help?
Hi, loving the build! Do you still know what the dimensions of the case are by any chance? Thanks
My case is 56" long, 7.5" wide and 17.5" high. This is something that you can spec yourself though. My case is relatively small as my flat is small, so i wanted to keep things as compact as i could. However if you have the room i would advocate going for something a little larger. It makes putting the case over the model a much easier task for sure!
@@TheModelBoatGuy that’s brilliant! Thanks for your help! 👍🏻
The "Mandrels" are called Warp Ends.
Beautiful modelling of the drydock, but I can see 2 problems with displaying the model in this way:
1) All of the figures you have prepared for an "afternoon at sea" wouldn't be promenading on deck with the ship in drydock, and
2) The only time the ship was in drydock was while under construction, and when it was launched on May 31, 1911 virtually the entire superstructure had not yet been built up. This construction was completed while the hull was afloat.
Doesn't really matter for display, of course, but just a technical observation offered.
If Titanic had survived it would have bewn in a dry Dock many times. The figures on deck wouldn't be out of place tho
Bronze green it would have been most likely same as what was used throughout the war for British tank's etc I've seen it on some of the machines in the old Dute Mills here in Scotland vallejo do a nice accurate bronze green Tamiya changed all there greens a while back so the tones are all to buggery now!
Hi Rob, check out First 4 Magnets. Very powerful and great price! Regards JH ;-)
aaah okdokie, thanks Johnny. I'll give them a go
Hi just out of curiosity how long did you Ka set take to arrive
Ooh it was a good month. When I ordered mine they were still delivering backlogs so there was a bit of a delay. I suspect that might still be the case
Can you please tell me where you got your case made ? Thank you in advance.
hi, forgot to put the link in the description but its there now. Just encase:
www.dscshowcases.co.uk/
Great work. Getting lots of good tips for my build. Also installed rc gear. I’ve been happy with 3 custom cases from
www.acrylicjob.com
In the US. Scroll down the page to estimate cost for custom cases. Not the elegant wood framing, but great protection and display for a static model. Ships flat and easy to assemble without tools or adhesive. My last purchase was for a 1:200 Hornet. Happy building, Dudley
The way you‘ve ordered the keel blocks is not correct. On the pictures in the video, the arrangement is shown when there is no ship in drydock. If there is a ship in drydock, these blocks are spread over the whole bottom of the ship. The Titanic had a shallow keel, so a flat bottom with a structural keel construction and bilge keels on both sides for stability.
But anyhow; nice build of course!
aaah thats makes sense actually! fair enough, to be fair its really just to give the effect more than anything. Its amazing how stable the model feels on the base actually, i was a little worried about it
@@TheModelBoatGuy ... just my two cents. It’s still a very fine building!
I thought the base of the hatch was the orangey brown colour
Up for debate I think! I wouldn’t like to say for definite one way or the other. But the renderings I have been using suffers black. I think it’s one of those things that will never be known for sure, best to go with what you like more!
You’re doing really nice work but, I have a question.
Did your salad taste good?
Thanks! Yes salad was nice actually. Shame about the finger but a great salad nonetheless 😅
@@TheModelBoatGuy I'm betting it was bloody good!
Sure wish I had one of these kits....too poor to get one
They certainly are money pits! I think the next project i do will have to be a lot cheaper than this.
I guess it’s still quite a new kit at the moment, if you give it a few months you might find it starts to come down in price a bit?
@@TheModelBoatGuy that would be sweet!!!
Im very interestes in the glass case, any more info?
yes sorry forgot to add the details into the description. I've put a link in there now but just encase
www.dscshowcases.co.uk/
@@TheModelBoatGuy great thanks! Dont mind if i ask what the dimensions you chose were and what options? Thanks!
I chose 53” length, 7” wide, and 17” tall.
Note though that this makes a very close fitting case! Essential for me because I don’t have very much space to put it, but if you have more space I’d consider expanding those dimensions a bit.
Colours wise I chose Oak and the base colour was Ash
@@TheModelBoatGuy great thanks for the info!
@@TheModelBoatGuy im presuming you meant 63” long not 53, otherwise you cuttinbf part of the ship off hah! Iv just asked for quotes frok another person as the firm you recommended hasnt replied unfortunatly. Getting quotes for perspex/ glass and safety glass as mine may be displayed sometime!
Face Reveal sometime pls
Skype