Well you have helped my project no end! I have been waiting for you to have a go at the lights! A bit of an anti climax really, one strip around the hull and that's it job done! There's me working out internal supports and all sorts of stuff that is now totally unnecessary! Great thanks for that, I may add some additional defusing to soften the effect even more. Now that you have reached the superstructure levels it will be interesting on how much light creeps around the deck edges etc. Great fun to come though! Your electronics are impressive and this was a really good video. Regards JH :-)
I was doing exactly the same re the lights, was thinking about slotting some thin acrylic sheets into my bulkheads at an angle and stuff to mount the lights! but i did a trial fit and was amazed just how well it worked. Diffusing is the next step, and also a bit of tinting to make them a wee bit more orange. I've bought some headlight tinting film which i think should do the trick but we will see. Im worried about the light bleed through the decks too, not entirely sure what can be done either. I am intending to pain the decks black on both sides before adding the wooden decking, but i dont know what to do about the joints... we will see, maybe a strip of adhesive rubber or something (sort of stuff you use for double glazing window seals?? Cross that bridge when it comes! Cheers for the support, how is your olympic coming along?
@@TheModelBoatGuy Hi, Yeah I expect light leakage from all sorts of areas like the anchor chain ports and even around the mast mountings and rudder stem too! I was thinking along the same lines as you on this and I expect that the eureka moment will arrive sooner or later. Your version is a little more complex what with the removable superstructure being a requirement. Perhaps a wider rubber strip as you say will do the job but its going to be close to those windows and portholes! My lighting source LED strip has the acrylic casing which may have been better for you in view of the water aspect! Being a static model I am going to try and install loads of F optics for the superstructure deck lights and even perhaps in the promenade deck areas. My Olympic will be a long haul as I am still gathering the additional gubbings to do the conversion. Boats are coming along slowly and I am putting a tiny strip of thin wood veneer around the top edge and then adding the grab ropes etc. All a bit experimental at the moment. Of course my Engelhardt boats will not be used so if you want them just let me know. There are so many additional things that I need to research for my build and are pretty elusive! The brass PE and additions to that have now taken me to well over 40 sheets. I am currently trying to finish off a wooden ship project too before doing any real work on the Olympic. JH ;-)
To be fair the LEDs are more orange than they look on camera, but they’re still not quite what I’m after! I think in due course I will get some kind of thing to tone the LEDs down and diffuse them a bit too. I reckon something like a headlight tinting film would work quite well? That should make them more orange and should stop there being bright spots
Nice! One question, are you gonna plan to make the deck wall bulbs more authentic, cause there are just gonna be visible leds on the deck making it look less authentic. I'm gonna be drilling portholes on the wall lights on the superstructure just like the real titanic. Right now I'm looking at Art Brauchweiger's 1/350 Titanic and I want mines to be like that too.
Its a tricky one here, where possible i will mount my LEDs in the ceilings to try and keep them as invisible as possible. Im not lighting my funnels like the kit suggests because although it looks good the real ship didn't have its funnels lit and the LEDs are just too obvious for me. Not sure about the wall lights yet. i think the options are either just drilling holes and then adding a bead of resin to make it look like glass, or maybe some fibreoptic cable? I'll experiment with both and see what happens! Can you link me to Art Brauchweiger's 1/350 Titanic? i'll deffo look and see if i can get any tips from that!
4:40 Central motor operates on 0.7v lower voltage because of diode so it may act different then side motors. I wonder why You don't move side motors a bit foward to have longer shafts and have them more stright?
You are correct yeah the diode will give a voltage drop, fortunately as it’s the central prop it won’t effect the handling of the boat. But it will be rotating slower. Re the wing props, in an ideal world I would move them closer to the stern, the issue is the hull starts sloping quite steeply. And I always prefer to mount motors on a flat base as that always helps with vibration.
Yes I think the best way of doing it is just regulating the flow into the shafts in the first place. Really you want to rely on capillary action to draw the oil in. Since that video I have tried to thin the pipes leading to the shafts which has reduced the oil leakage. The other method that proved successful is to reduce the amount of oil in the reservoir. By doing that you reduce the pressure pushing the oil through the shafts which I’ve found helps. I mean oil isn’t really my preferred option. If I thought it was possible I’d have used grease and a grease nipple, but the shafts are too small and I was worried the nipples wouldn’t stay in the shafts due to the pressure of adding new grease in
I asked a question on your weathering video (#9) but haven’t received a reply. Could you? : The wash looks v good. But I maybe missed something; what is the main ingredient to the wash?. I got the deep blue and white; but was is the base? It would be great to know?
Hi, sorry I replied to someone but it might not have been your message! The main base was thinners (I use cellulose thinners). You’ll need to be a little careful and make sure the last wash has dried thoroughly because otherwise adding new wash will wash off the old! Give it a good hour between coats and you should be fine.
Got to ask does the kit give you enough lights to light up the hull or did you need to purchase more? And what kind of filament is that, that you used to give your hull lights a yellow tone? Btw Im picking up my model today. 😜👍
It does not. It does not give you any lights for the hull. Only the upper decks and horrible looking bulbs that sit on the deck by the funnels to give it the funnel film light.
@@Robman0908 well I kinda figured that out just was curious what kind he bought for the hull, as for the funnel lights, I agree. Would have been better if they came with shields that would block the light from those bulbs from onlookers, but still leaves one side open to illuminate the funnels. Granted the real Titanic didn't have these, but if you're building it for display, I can see them serving a purpose. 😜👍
@@jackvolta3489 I actually like the funnel light like the model from the 97 film. I just don’t like the huge bulbs on the hull. Having a cover for them is kind cool.
@@Robman0908 thanks Rob, you know modellers do this type of what Im about to suggest all the time, if Im not mistaken that is how they built the Millennium Falcon for Star Wars, By using pcs from many apon many model kits, with this in mind we could modify cut, shape & sand pcs, from maybe the gun barrel, from a plastic tank model, or anything plastic and hollow but cylinder in shape would work. Just got to think out of the box a little when adding things like this to such an epic model, but I do believe it can be done and would look great once completed, Good luck with yours Rob, and if you decide to make some light shields for yours, Id love to know what you came up with, "as for me" I'm only as far as drilling out my portholes, I'm taking the summer off, because its just to hot here in New England U.S.A it was 95° here today and more of the same for tomorrow as well, to hot for model building...lol I'll start up again in September & work on it throughout the winter months that way I wont have sweat dripping on my directions ...lol. 😜👍
I’m tempted to do this, been flirting with the idea for a while. The issue is one of additional weight. I’ll see when I have the boat finished I’ll see what space there is! Defiantly a good idea though
The term _"Neutral"_ should not be used in any DC circuits. It only adds to the confusion of a novice that is willing to learn basic wiring. You should refer to it as the _"Negative"_ rail or 0 Volts. Anyway, thanks for sharing.
Yeah you are correct actually, its very much a slip of the tongue! I do try and standardise what I say when talking about technical things but I do occasionally say the wrong word. I have made a note so will hopefully catch h these things more and more as we go.
You’re not wrong! Appologies 😂 when I was watching the video back I noticed a few incorrect things like that, I managed to get into the habit of calling my bond an earth bond rather than a neutral bond too! Rest assured I shall call it a ship from now on 👌
@@TheModelBoatGuy That was meant to be a half hearted attempt at a joke (my appologies, sarcasism doesnt translate really well with the writing word) that being said Im glad your back to making videos and I really dont care what you call it a dingy or a barnickle barge, its yours and it looks fine
Love the Top Gear-esque intro XD
This build is brilliant! I really need to get on with work, but keep saying to myself...." just one more episode, just one more...".
Looking really good so far! Lights will look amazing on the water, looking forward to future updates.
WOW IMPRESSIVE I LIKE TO SEE YOU USE YOUR TALENT AND EXPLAIN HOW YOU BUILD IT GREAT JOB 👍
Thanks! glad you're liking it :)
Well you have helped my project no end! I have been waiting for you to have a go at the lights! A bit of an anti climax really, one strip around the hull and that's it job done! There's me working out internal supports and all sorts of stuff that is now totally unnecessary! Great thanks for that, I may add some additional defusing to soften the effect even more. Now that you have reached the superstructure levels it will be interesting on how much light creeps around the deck edges etc. Great fun to come though! Your electronics are impressive and this was a really good video. Regards JH :-)
I was doing exactly the same re the lights, was thinking about slotting some thin acrylic sheets into my bulkheads at an angle and stuff to mount the lights! but i did a trial fit and was amazed just how well it worked. Diffusing is the next step, and also a bit of tinting to make them a wee bit more orange. I've bought some headlight tinting film which i think should do the trick but we will see.
Im worried about the light bleed through the decks too, not entirely sure what can be done either. I am intending to pain the decks black on both sides before adding the wooden decking, but i dont know what to do about the joints... we will see, maybe a strip of adhesive rubber or something (sort of stuff you use for double glazing window seals?? Cross that bridge when it comes!
Cheers for the support, how is your olympic coming along?
@@TheModelBoatGuy Hi, Yeah I expect light leakage from all sorts of areas like the anchor chain ports and even around the mast mountings and rudder stem too!
I was thinking along the same lines as you on this and I expect that the eureka moment will arrive sooner or later. Your version is a little more complex what with the removable superstructure being a requirement. Perhaps a wider rubber strip as you say will do the job but its going to be close to those windows and portholes! My lighting source LED strip has the acrylic casing which may have been better for you in view of the water aspect! Being a static model I am going to try and install loads of F optics for the superstructure deck lights and even perhaps in the promenade deck areas. My Olympic will be a long haul as I am still gathering the additional gubbings to do the conversion. Boats are coming along slowly and I am putting a tiny strip of thin wood veneer around the top edge and then adding the grab ropes etc. All a bit experimental at the moment. Of course my Engelhardt boats will not be used so if you want them just let me know. There are so many additional things that I need to research for my build and are pretty elusive! The brass PE and additions to that have now taken me to well over 40 sheets. I am currently trying to finish off a wooden ship project too before doing any real work on the Olympic. JH ;-)
You could lightly coat the LEDs with yellow to give it the feel of old lighting.
To be fair the LEDs are more orange than they look on camera, but they’re still not quite what I’m after! I think in due course I will get some kind of thing to tone the LEDs down and diffuse them a bit too. I reckon something like a headlight tinting film would work quite well? That should make them more orange and should stop there being bright spots
@@TheModelBoatGuy good idea, that should work
love your work man!
Nice! One question, are you gonna plan to make the deck wall bulbs more authentic, cause there are just gonna be visible leds on the deck making it look less authentic. I'm gonna be drilling portholes on the wall lights on the superstructure just like the real titanic. Right now I'm looking at Art Brauchweiger's 1/350 Titanic and I want mines to be like that too.
Its a tricky one here, where possible i will mount my LEDs in the ceilings to try and keep them as invisible as possible. Im not lighting my funnels like the kit suggests because although it looks good the real ship didn't have its funnels lit and the LEDs are just too obvious for me.
Not sure about the wall lights yet. i think the options are either just drilling holes and then adding a bead of resin to make it look like glass, or maybe some fibreoptic cable? I'll experiment with both and see what happens! Can you link me to Art Brauchweiger's 1/350 Titanic? i'll deffo look and see if i can get any tips from that!
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yes! That would be a really good idea, good luck!
sorry if I haven’t got back to you in a while, the website is “ www.titanicmodel.net “
very good job
Thank you so much I’m busy I’m going to build one just like yours in the same model same everything
Sounds good! It’s a great model to build, takes a while but that isn’t a problem as it has lots of variety on it.
Best of luck with it all
4:40 Central motor operates on 0.7v lower voltage because of diode so it may act different then side motors. I wonder why You don't move side motors a bit foward to have longer shafts and have them more stright?
You are correct yeah the diode will give a voltage drop, fortunately as it’s the central prop it won’t effect the handling of the boat. But it will be rotating slower.
Re the wing props, in an ideal world I would move them closer to the stern, the issue is the hull starts sloping quite steeply. And I always prefer to mount motors on a flat base as that always helps with vibration.
Hey just wondering will these led light work with the academy 1/400 Titanic I decided to practice a bit before I get the trumpeter Titanic
Id have thought so yeah, perhaps just thin them out a bit otherwise they will be a bit overpowering
Alright thank you for telling me that I have decided to go with the minicraft 1/350 but anyways thank you for the advice have a good day
Absolutely love your work. I do t have the time to do my own but I love your work
You can also connect 4-pin rpg light strips with remote control
So is there no way to minimize the prop shafts from leaking so much? Id have thought there would be something
Yes I think the best way of doing it is just regulating the flow into the shafts in the first place. Really you want to rely on capillary action to draw the oil in. Since that video I have tried to thin the pipes leading to the shafts which has reduced the oil leakage.
The other method that proved successful is to reduce the amount of oil in the reservoir. By doing that you reduce the pressure pushing the oil through the shafts which I’ve found helps.
I mean oil isn’t really my preferred option. If I thought it was possible I’d have used grease and a grease nipple, but the shafts are too small and I was worried the nipples wouldn’t stay in the shafts due to the pressure of adding new grease in
I asked a question on your weathering video (#9) but haven’t received a reply. Could you? : The wash looks v good. But I maybe missed something; what is the main ingredient to the wash?. I got the deep blue and white; but was is the base? It would be great to know?
Hi, sorry I replied to someone but it might not have been your message! The main base was thinners (I use cellulose thinners). You’ll need to be a little careful and make sure the last wash has dried thoroughly because otherwise adding new wash will wash off the old! Give it a good hour between coats and you should be fine.
TheModelBoatGuy thanks. That’s the info I needed.
Got to ask does the kit give you enough lights to light up the hull or did you need to purchase more? And what kind of filament is that, that you used to give your hull lights a yellow tone? Btw Im picking up my model today. 😜👍
It does not. It does not give you any lights for the hull. Only the upper decks and horrible looking bulbs that sit on the deck by the funnels to give it the funnel film light.
@@Robman0908 well I kinda figured that out just was curious what kind he bought for the hull, as for the funnel lights, I agree. Would have been better if they came with shields that would block the light from those bulbs from onlookers, but still leaves one side open to illuminate the funnels.
Granted the real Titanic didn't have these, but if you're building it for display, I can see them serving a purpose. 😜👍
@@jackvolta3489 I actually like the funnel light like the model from the 97 film. I just don’t like the huge bulbs on the hull. Having a cover for them is kind cool.
@@Robman0908 thanks Rob, you know modellers do this type of what Im about to suggest all the time, if Im not mistaken that is how they built the Millennium Falcon for Star Wars, By using pcs from many apon many model kits, with this in mind we could modify cut, shape & sand pcs, from maybe the gun barrel, from a plastic tank model, or anything plastic and hollow but cylinder in shape would work. Just got to think out of the box a little when adding things like this to such an epic model, but I do believe it can be done and would look great once completed, Good luck with yours Rob, and if you decide to make some light shields for yours, Id love to know what you came up with, "as for me" I'm only as far as drilling out my portholes, I'm taking the summer off, because its just to hot here in New England U.S.A it was 95° here today and more of the same for tomorrow as well, to hot for model building...lol I'll start up again in September & work on it throughout the winter months that way I wont have sweat dripping on my directions ...lol. 😜👍
Please make the boat play the white star line song book
I’m tempted to do this, been flirting with the idea for a while. The issue is one of additional weight. I’ll see when I have the boat finished I’ll see what space there is! Defiantly a good idea though
0:05 - 0:19 Tonight a phone almost get's drop in a bath, I drop a piece of paper, and some LED's turn on
The term _"Neutral"_ should not be used in any DC circuits. It only adds to the confusion of a novice that is willing to learn basic wiring. You should refer to it as the _"Negative"_ rail or 0 Volts.
Anyway, thanks for sharing.
Yeah you are correct actually, its very much a slip of the tongue! I do try and standardise what I say when talking about technical things but I do occasionally say the wrong word. I have made a note so will hopefully catch h these things more and more as we go.
@@TheModelBoatGuy
All good, and thanks for the reply.
Tonight on Bottom gear
Hola
Excuse me Sir, but its not a "Boat" its a "Ship" lets get it right Capt
Yes that's a bit ouch to ship lovers!!! :-)
You’re not wrong! Appologies 😂 when I was watching the video back I noticed a few incorrect things like that, I managed to get into the habit of calling my bond an earth bond rather than a neutral bond too!
Rest assured I shall call it a ship from now on 👌
@@TheModelBoatGuy That was meant to be a half hearted attempt at a joke (my appologies, sarcasism doesnt translate really well with the writing word) that being said Im glad your back to making videos and I really dont care what you call it a dingy or a barnickle barge, its yours and it looks fine
OldTankerguy 1966 ha don’t worry, I was also being sarcastic!
In Michigan everything is called a boat
I wish everyone have a lot of money which can buy anything they want.
I know, capitalism is confusing beyond belief.
@@attackoramic8361 I like it!!
No thank you. I say just put the Titanic ship model on the water and watch her sink.
You are the same person who said you wouldn't build it because there are to many pieces
Titanic is a ship stop saying boat
In michigan everything is called a boat
The Titanic didn’t sink it was the Olympic
I know it’s probably late but wetsuit glue around the stern glands will be a fantastic fail safe