GM Chevrolet Truck Exhaust Manifold Leak Broken Bolt Trick, Lifter Tick ??
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2019
- Commonly mistaken for a lifter tick, almost all GM truck based vehicle's will experience this exhaust manifold leak From a broken bolt at some point. I give some tricks that can help fix this very common Issue.
Helpful things for the job.
10in Straight Jaw Vise Grip
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Exhaust Manifold Hardware Kit
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The Spine drive ratchet Wrench I used in the video (I can't find one on amazon in 7mm)
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If a quick fix is needed This may be a good option for some I didn't show this in video because I believe in proper repair
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My website
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To show some love support me with PayPal at crazedtech85@gmail.com
Chevrolet Automotive technician - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Thank you my guy. Im so sick of mechanics telling me its my engine and i need to be careful for engine failure.. Ur the man💪🏽
Wow I just found this out today on my 09 g8.. The rear bolts on both sides snapped in half. I just spent $76 this morning for exhaust repair clamps.. Thanks bro👍.. Subscribed!
I’ve found that putting a copper tube into the hole and feeding your mig wire through that will keep the “nub” from swelling too much and damaging the aluminum threads. The nub feeds into the copper which won’t take the weld. This nub…. Once cooled, can then be welded onto with a nut and run out. The copper tube also makes it so you don’t have to remove the manifold. I just found that easier for me rather than fighting and prying the manifold. Just a suggestion you might want to try. Great video… appreciate you taking the time. 👍🏼
So you didn't take the manifold off you welded build up then a nut correct
@@dman3962 No I took the manifold off, but the stud was broken off approximately 1/4” below the surface. I didn’t want to corrupt the threads or the deck surface. The copper tube got me past this point without any issues and far enough out so I could get a nut on it. On a few, I didn’t need a nut, I just turned it out with vise grips.
I have done this without removing the manifold on pickups, but space is limited on vans. The tube helps on pickups with the manifold on, so it doesn’t stick to the manifold
I am glad that I checked the u-tube for some knowlegable person and smart at explaining (how to ) take care of the same problem that I discovered
have with my 2000 gmc 6.0 vortech engine , and now I have an Idea as to what really takes to remove the broken bolts at each end of the manifold
I don't have any place , or the proper tools to correct this problem , But I really recommend this video , this guy is totally smart at what what he does..
thank you .. and now I have an idea if a repair shop will try to tell me how much that person will have to remove, to make extra money off of me.
THANK YOU SOOOOMUCH
I'm going to work on my 2000 GMC its got 2 broken bolts, one on each side. Thanks for the video.
I have to do this on my wife's 07 trail blazer SS... you give me some inspiration
Thank you buddy. You just helped me more than you know.💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
This was super informative. Thanks for the information.
Who knew there was someome who actually knows what they are talking about
. This channel saved me alot time and 💰 🤑 💸 💲 💶 💵 💰 🤑
Yep my 2 back bolts broke. 1 on each side. Doing DOD delete. Wow what a job!
Great video. Keep it up. Thanks
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥 GREAT DETAILS!!
I was just getting ready to do a bolt set! I found a bolt head on the pavement where I park. I've been messing with lifters for a month though, lol. I've had the valve covers off, tryed the B-12 chemtool into the pushrods, flushed the motor with trans fluid, and the exhaust bolts were going to be my next attempt. So thanks for verifying this.
How did it go?
Let the engine get hot before you remove the bolts. Should do the heating for you. Then let the engine cool before you do the rest of the work.
Be sure to check your manifold for cracks mine had a hair line that was caught fortunately. I had 2 broke bolts on each side next to fire wall 4 total 3 of which were broke flush with the head mounting surface and had to replace manifold 600.00 bucks all together at chevrolet. I felt it was worth not having to deal with it if the other bolts decided to break. 2004 6.0 2500hd. ARP BOLTS ONLY!
Wow my buddy just told me about this trick after I had already destroyed my head trying to drill out the stud, but thanks for this great how to anyhow. If I have this problem in the future I now know what to do.
Can always helicoil it
You got lucky. I had to weld on mine to to be able to get it out. There is no room in there to have a welding helmet on once you get the fender liner out. I had to get the nut I was going to weld on in position, clos emy eyes, buff it with the welder for a second, open eyes and check. Got it out after trying 17 times.
Well done buddy
Awesome. That's the old Mike Yarman trick...! Ain't easy. I broke off 5 bolts in a axle housing and Mike welded nuts to all of em and got em out for me.
Right onesap
good job thank you, Try screw loosening together to avoid over load on the last one, it's working👌.
Not 1 by 1
Man bro your 7mm ratchet wrench trick did the trick!! Well I broke it loose with se vise grips and used the 7 to back it out. But instead of using the manifold to snug it on I just hit it a few times with a big wrench lol 😆 thanks man
I dont mean to be so off topic but does any of you know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow forgot my account password. I love any tricks you can offer me!
@Theodore Omar Instablaster =)
@Declan Kaiden thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Declan Kaiden WTF IT ACTUALLY WORKED :O I just got access to my IG password within roughly 40 minutes of using the site.
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
@Theodore Omar glad I could help :)
why i am keeping my 92 k1500 350 ,,my son inlaw has had two chevys with the 5.3,,junk bolts in both
i just had one of these on each LS head break. one had threads show so i stickwelded a nut onto it and it came out easily.
the other was about one thread into the head broke off and i tried mig welded a lump on there to twist out but my lumps twisted off then i tried drilling and using a easy out thats similar but different than yours enough that it had a drill bit inisde and and easy out thing on outside.
It did turn almost half a turn but TLDR, it broke off in the hole.
so i tried migging a nut on there again and no deal, just twisted off.
i do have another ls core i could steal a head from, is that my easiest option at this point? will that involve a new set of intake and head gaskets?
Just pulled the manifold on my wife's truck and got the bolt out with the welder and a nut... good times!
I just took off my heat sheild after hearing loud engine noise, rattle chirp newr exhaust manifold. I have a turbo engine. There are two bolts broke on the manifold, hopefully they can fix it without removing my turbo. Else they wanna charge me to remove turbo, catalytic converter, manifold and gasket. Something about replacing the gasket with the bolts. What do you think? Should replacing the bolts be easier?
I had to weld out 4 studs on my 2002 6.0, 2 fronts and 2 backs it sucked. I got a cheap welder from harbor freight. it was hard because my welds kept breaking off for some reason, but eventually I got it.
Ive been looking for Passenger side exhaust manifold access...going trhough the wheel well seems to be the way to go.
Had the same issue on my pickup. Mine's a 2013 6.0 and at first I thought maybe it was a lifter. After looking around I found the back bolt broken on the passenger side and both the front and back bolts broken on the drivers side.
If you have an older, 2009 5.3 and no broken bolts, would you recommend changing them out? If you are in there anyway?
I bought a 2005 suburban with 160000 miles for 1000. It was making a ticking noise. The guy says it's 100 percent the lifter, he had it checked by a mechanic. The mechanic quotes him 3800 for DOD removal plus new camshaft, lifters, rockers, valves, springs, and new updated valve covers. I was planning on replacing just one collapsed lifter to get the ticking to stop. I get the car home and pull the valve covers and all the lifters appeared to work fine. I peek down and sure enough about half the exhaust bolts were broken. All four in the rear on both sides were broke. I was able to extract a few and the ones I couldn't I bought three aftermarket clamps that clamp to the block and exhaust so you don't even need bolts. Worked great and been driving it for 3 years no problems. The funniest thing is my suburban does not even have DOD or collapsible lifters lol. I got a nice 4x4 suburban for 1000 dollars and one Saturday afternoon of work.
That's one hell of a deal! I was reading and at first like 05 doesn't have AFM. Then as I read it all made sense. Nice getting it so it didn't sound ridiculous. I know about the clamps just don't like them as a fix because it's not the correct fix. As a shop working on customer cars I won't put one on as it's not professional to do so. I understand it for a personal vehicle though.
Why does Chevy have these broken exhaust bolt issues? I will use the spline wrench method. I tried the vise grips but that is tough.
Not sure if you mentioned it in the video or not, but these manifolds do warp on the surface that mates to the head. I have had them machined flat in the past. The last one I did, I didn't want to wait for the machine shop. In the middle of the manifold there is a spot where two bolts are side by side. I made a relief cut in the manifold there so both sides could flex a little. Put it all back together and its been fine for a few months.
I never mentioned it. Forgot to put it in but yes they can warp so if one was to actually pull it off it would be a good idea to get it surfaced.
Thank you.
I'm just doing the recon on my 03 6.0
That explains my two piece passenger side manifold.
Long shot, but I may be dealing with some warpage on one side of my 5.3 manifold. By relief cut, do you mean you made an incision between the middle two bolt holes? How far did you go?
@@ZareefHuq cut it all the way through
Wonder if a higher grade bolt/fastener setups like the ARP or stage 8 with locks etc... would eliminate this problem for long term?
I would avoid grade 8 because they don't like to stretch. Stainless steel might be a good choice though. But the reality is they do typically last at least a 100k so idk what the best option is without a 100k in testing
Been reading that stainless steel in aluminum is the way to go. But studs with nuts to spare the aluminum threads in the block. Along with high temp anti seize rather than locktite designed for aluminum applications (non copper high temp).
Our 2007 Yukon Denali with the 6.2L L92 doesn't have afm which I though might be the cause of some ticking... thinking now I should grab a light and look for black marks around the manifold.
Good content.
I know for a fact I'd hate my life if a stainless one broke and I had to drill that out 😂
Wow. Looks like a nasty job! My 6.0 has this. Started out as a whistle almost like a bearing somewhere such as serp pulley. Bolts missing in 4 areas on manifolds. Think I'm gonna go with the band aid brackets for now....
Try that weld to stud trick on most fords and you will find there is NO room to do this. That is why I own a GM. Good work Sir!!
It can be done on the Fords but what a pain in the ass that is...
Great job. I've been trying everything to figure out why my 2001 silverado hd has code po300 missfire. To much o2 leaking into exhaust (o2 sensors). Causing rich mixture.
First off, that would cause a (false) lean condition, not rich. Second, the code in that case would be P0171, not P0300. Misfire conditions are detected through the crankshaft position sensor, not the oxygen sensors.
Good job make the job a lot easier if you remove the inner Fender Wells that are just held on by plastic tabs especially if you're going to weld nuts onto the broken bolts.
Curious would this be something I should do myself or Maybe take it to my local performance exhaust shops to have the work done? Was planning on swapping the manifold’s with headers.
Depends on your skill level
Have exact issue on my 2007 suburban…..guy wants 800 for 2 bolt repairs…extra 150 if bolt breaks and he has to weld, is that reasonable?
I had my heads rebuilt and since they went to the machine shop I had them remove the rear broken studs on my 08 Avalanche. I put back new GM studs but wanted to know if you had an idea of what the root cause was and how to prevent it from happening again. Wonder if it was a manufacturing process issue at GM factory that over torqued the rear bolts.
Heat stress over time mostly. However, the bolts are a bit small and weak for the application. So better hardware would make it last longer. Also sometimes the manifold warping over time plays a factor. One could get it resurfaced.
Just took the head off my 07 Tahoe and saw the studs of the bolts on both ends and thought that it was like this from the factory. After watching this video I realize the heads of the bolts have snapped off.
My 05 2500hd has been doing this for years. I thought it was lifters until I went searching and found 2 broken bolts on the passenger side #8
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Great repair but you almost dropped that bolt down into the exhaust pipe ;)
I thought sure as shit he did, my luck I would have. Lol
got the same job on a hummer 2, very back bolt on drivers side, had nub sticking out, that broke off, tried welding nub up. no avail, tried plasma cutter, only goes so deep, just a shitty angle,
I had same issue took dremel and cut a groove in bolt then extracted with flathead
That actually works really well, especially if you have a impact driver.
I'm about to remove two broke bolts on the left side. I'm going to do my best to weld a nut on that back broken bolt. It's super tight in there, so I'm fairly nervous. Lol. Also I did get the replacement bolt set. There isn't an issue on the right side exhaust manifold, but the question I was wondering was, should I remove and replace the old bolts on the right side too?? Before they break? Or is that a risk I shouldn't take, and just leave them alone for now? I'd rather not have them break in the future, but I also don't want them to break trying to remove them, and cause myself unnecessary work. Sigh...
They are most likely broken or just about to break. You just can't tell because they are hardly hanging on.
What do you think about using factory bolts but with a nice thick stainless steel fender washer? Would that help dissipate/reduce heat on the head of the bolt??
Nah I don't think it will help much. Better bolts like stainless or ARP will help. But one thing to consider, these always have well over 100k miles before failure. So it's not like it's a short term fix.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair ok thank you. I’m about to have my 6.2 on my 09 Yukon rebuilt and I want to upgrade a few things. So if I’m going to keep my truck I’m going to replace these bolts now for the rebuild but I’m going to order an extra set of bolts and I’ll change them at 50,000 or 75,000 not a big deal. Thanks for the info, I am not a mechanic I just do what I can when we have an issue and it’s mostly bolt on. 🇺🇸 💪🏻 👊🏻 🤙🏼
What size welder did you use ? Would a small buzz box work ? Or do I need a 220v for the heat
You can get it with a small buzz box but crank it up and it may take a few tries.
How much did you charge for this, just so I know what to expect when I take it somewhere, people tell me my head is trash if this happens but I know the aluminum shouldn't be affected if ur welding steel
It's typically a day worth of work so expect 4-8 billed hours worth of labor.
After you remove the broken bolt , do you have to replace the manifold? Or just new bolts gaskets and good to go?
Typically just new bolts and gaskets.
Do you have to replace the gasket too? Or is it recommended?
Yes, you should replace the gasket.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair THANK YOU :)
lol I have more than half broken on my truck. Crossing my fingers that they aren't broken off in the head.
Yes, I have a 88 Chevy 88Z 71 with a broke manifold boat in the very back only driver side I don’t know how to get it out without pulling the motor
That is most likely a 5.7 with cast iron heads. You will have to drill and extract that bolt. Unless there is some stud sticking out. In which case you could weld a nut on then.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you boss
What's the grade of those bolts? Doing all that work you should just put on headers right away....
Lower grade I'm sure because high grade like grade 8 don't like to be cycled so much
That’s the exact bolt that broke on my 2008 Silverado. Dealer told me that it was caused by the head being aluminum and the manifold being cast iron. Tried to sell me the bolt extraction and manifold replacement for 1400. I laughed and did it myself for under 300.
How did you remove the broken bolt?
@@frankdatank7751 I had enough meat on the bolt to grab it with some needle nose vice grips. Worked it back and forth until I got it out.
I have a 2000 GMC Yukon Denali and its making the same sound when I start it up. I wonder if this is the same problem with mine?
Go look and see if the head of any bolts are missing and you’ll wonder no more
Should I do this when the motor is cold or let it warm up for a little..
If You let it warm up at all You will have to let it sit and cool down as well. Otherwise the manifold will be too hot to even work on the thing. It might help though only because it might make it easier to get the weld to stick.
Tell me, do broken bolts affect the oxygen intake? Can it be that the engine is unstable? If one bolt on each side is broken off?
It does, your upstream 02 sensor on that side will tell the computer it's running lean because the exhaust is escaping before the o2 sensor and the computer will then start dumping more fuel. You'll get PO300 misfire codes and then eventually PO171 system lean bank 1. MPG will nosedive and black soot out the tailpipe.
Absolutely. I had a exhaust manifold leak on both sides and the truck tried to compensate by adding more fuel, she ran like total shit because the o2 sensors started to “foul” i guess. New 02 sensors, new exhaust bolts and gaskets, and new plugs has her running smooth again.
Would this cause the oil pressure to go up every time I accelerate or that is just a separate problem?
totally separate and normal with a working gauge.
I have a GMC Sierra and recently found two bolts broken, can this make the check engine light come on?
Yes it can throw a O2 sensor code.
may i ask will this cause misfire or slight rough idle? since i hear the same thing
Might cause rough idle if it's messing with o2 sensor reading.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thank you watch ur vids cuz of the DOD. from the Philippines
Do you prefer straight grip or curve grip vice grips?
Yes, in most cases.
Oh my God I dont understand all the hate and smart ass comments lol. You people came here because you obviously have this problem and this guy is cool as hell and shows us multiple ways to help us and yall still bitch and moan. If i was him I'd delete the damn thing and laugh as you all paid a dealership a grand to do this. Thanks for the video man I appreciated it.
A grand would be a good deal..
these head bolts on gm trucks break since the start of the c series.1976-2000 in my experience
So what happens when you've tried to remove one below the surface with a tap and it breaks off?
Lots of swearing, then attempt tap extractor and end with a welder. That's why I try not to use a tap if I can help it lol.
How did you hold the nut while you welded it
I usually just use a pliers.
my problem is the bold broke off inside the motor And the bolt extractor broke off inside it too. 1995 chevrolet g 20 van
I believe that has a cast iron cylinder head, if so you will need to drill a bunch of small holes with high speed bit around the bolt and extractor. Then you need something like a time-sert amzn.to/33GK50h otherwise you could try to blow out the extractor with a cutting torch if you are skilled enough with a torch good luck.
Have u seen them dorman brackets you bolt on and it snugs up the manifold to the head and boom your done without all the hassle of what you did there????
Yes, but this is the correct way to do it. Besides more often then not you end up with a broken bolt on the front by the alternator bracket. I don't believe those can be used there.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair your doing right thats a fact you do everything right, I can never thank you enough for your video's on stuck lifters..you sent me the lifter tool and i fixed my lifter and u saved me thousands in repairs. Love your videos there so informative and you show everything from start to finish thanks for sharing
Will a regular 12 point ratchet wrench work or does it have to be a spline wrench
The spline will bite better but you might be able to get it with a 12 point.
Would that cause a misfire also
No
The sad part is you tossed the mls gasket for the pos felpro junk. You’ll be replacing that gasket again.
Any clue what the cost would be to get a shop to do it?
Depends on labor rate and how the tech does the job.
i’m getting it done right now and getting headers put on and with header install, exhaust install, and bolt removal it is $1,500. I don’t have the price just for the removal yet until i get my truck back
300 plus 1 hour labor per broken bolt. Some mechanics say they have to take head off. But I didn't neither did this guy.
I haves noise on my ram that scares me. Brand new build NON-MDS 392 Stroker. Sounds like header leak but i can’t find any smudging anywhere. BBK headers, could there be a crack somewhere?
Sure could be, hook a vacuum cleaner exhaust to tail pipe and check for leaks with soapy water while it's cold
This happen to my crystler Aspen
Would it be better to install studs with bolts on the head instead of the factory bolts
Not necessarily, lot of times the studs get in the way. I think the issue it the little 8mm bolts (5/16) vs the old sbc that has 3/8 bolts and doesn't fail.
Do you think a good arp bolt would fix this problem?
@@stephenjohnston226 It might but honestly a stainless bolt might be best. Stainless does a good job with lots of expansion and contraction so that might work the best but I'm not sure. Its hard to test because the original ones typically last a 100k miles or more.
Thanks crazed performance repair really enjoyed your videos. Really wish there was more mechanics that cared around. Keep it up.
i put studs back in mine
good idea 👍
Where is your shop located
In process of moving to Avon SD.
Like an idiot I had both of my heads off recently replacing lifters, trays, cleaning tops of pistons, heads, new springs, rocker trunion upgrade, etc. Well while I had the driver side head off I forgot that the stock manifold on that side had a broken rear bolt and I overlooked it and installed the head without removing it. Now I have to hop I can get it out without having to remove the head again since I put on long tube headers. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
If I can't weld and have the bolt broke INSIDE the head, do I have to pull the head off to fix? This sucks...the second bolt I can get vice grips on
@@stiffmeister0hYeah which bolt is it and what head casting is it? Is it an LS head? Go on Ebay and look up the KAP manifold bolt repair kit and find the one for your head. It states in the listing description what bolts each one will fix. Simple design and it works.
@@ls4.8frank it's the rear drivers side Escalade 6.0. Snapped inside the head.
@@stiffmeister0hYeah
www.ebay.com/itm/303578906452
That is the one you need bro. You can thank me later!
@@ls4.8frank yep save alot of cussing
Omg this scares me
So how serious is this issue if not taken care of? I have the bolt broken off showing no threads on the driver side furthest back closest to the firewall. Think it is a small exhaust leak and no sensors going off and very faint noise. Can this destroy the motor, or the motor, cause total engine failure at some point? How serious is it in should it be a major priority getting it fixed ASAP?
Exhaust leak will cause motor to run rich (injectors putting in too much fuel). The engine will run poorly, it will quickly destroy catalytic converter, foul the plugs causing misfires, and gas will get in oil destroying lubrication. It eventually will destroy engine if not addressed.
I was worried you were about to drop that hot stud into the exhaust pipe!
Thanks for the video! One more confirmation for why I will not purchase from a manufacturer who refuses to address a known issue aright.
lol I guess your still walking than huh!
@@trev1481 Good point and well-taken.
Rephrase: I try to stay with manufacturers who think long-term. Perfect? Nah, but healthy companies.
So is this from an aluminum block with steel bolts? There a hardened aluminum stud/nut or bolt with washer to isolate the two metals apart?
Aluminum heads steel bolts, but that's not the issue. Notice there was no corrosion on the threads? That's because they use locktight on the threads so corrosion isn't the issue it's the small diameter bolts with lots of expansion contraction cycles not able to handle it long term.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yeah I see your point for the burried threads but the bolt heads pop off too and aren't those portions corroded some? From what I'm gathering maybe the main point some of you guys are making is that the bolts will die from heat cycles before they corrode.
13mm?? I swear I just took 9 of the 12 bolts out and I used a 10mm. I used a mig welder for the other 3.
Someone put the wrong bolts in yours or something. They are all 13mm heads from factory. The aftermarket dorman ones are 12mm odd balls.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair Hmm.. I'm sure you are correct, I'm a weekend warrior. However, yesterday I removed the factory exhaust manifold gaskets on my '03 Tahoe and I've got 9 (of 12) 10mm bolts to show for it. I just put a caliper to the head of one of these ICT Billet exh manifold bolts I'll be using and sure as shit, they've got a 10mm head as well. I'm sure I'm confused about something tho..
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I was told if I like pulling busted exhaust manifold bolts to keep using the Dorman bolts..
@@randykudijaroff482 someone prob swapped them in there as maintenance in hopes to prevent breakage lol. We can clearly see how well that worked out...
@@randykudijaroff482 they all seem to break with time, stainless does seem to last in the high performance stuff but then again that's header's not manifolds so the expansion rate prob plays a factor.
Going about it all wrong. Remove wheel. Remove inner fender. Give each bolt head a good smack. Remove manifold. Weld larger nut to the broken stud. Remover stud. If bolt is broken flush build up a bead of weld on it then weld nut to bead. Easy stuff
man i would totally pull the motor to do that...
That would add 5 more hours to the job and alot more work
Lol
@@TheWolverine-rm2kr did it today (after writing that comment). Lifters and a new oil pump will be here on Tuesday.
just got a truck with 80k miles on it and one of the bolts is broken off... idk if someone tried to get it off before and snapped it then gave up or it jsut happened by itself but damn is that a bitch...
been there done that 40 years ago nothing new here for me also didn't have you tube too, but some one can learn or ALSO weld a net on and back it out
8mm doesn’t come close to manifold bolts on my 2007 Escalade..
The bolt is 8x1.25 thread, the head is stock 13mm aftermarket 12mm, and to extract the exposed broken I use spline drive 7mm and hammer it on.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair good call
Did any of you happen to have missfires with this problem ?
im currently having this ticking noise problem too and i also have constant misfires and rough idling on my 2018
@@chrism.9497 DOD most likely for yours
what a pain in the ass.
Why not just run the engine for a few minutes
More common on late model dodge rams....
And late 90s Dakotas...
pb blaster would help
Not when the bolts are cracked due to the numerous heat cycles they go through. It'll help the stuck unbroken bolts but not those putters that 9/10 times break or are broken by the time you hear the puffing.
Also it's the lock tight holding it in not rust or corrosion so in those cases penetrating oil won't help. Hmm wonder if a lock tight desolver exist yet? New product idea perhaps
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair i understand it was but after you heated it up then used it,,just a thought
@@animalcorvair I get that, but the lock tight melts when you heat it. That is why it comes out easy after using a welder, the welder heats it so fast it can melt the lock tight deep within the head. I don't think I have ever seen any sort of corrosion inside the head on these yet. I believe it is because the lock tight used actually seals off the water and what not from getting in there to cause a problem in the first place.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair yep locktight does that gm never used that on my older cars
So.... GM trucks suck?
Pretty much All domestic trucks do this.
No Chinese bolts do.
W in TF. Two nuts on the exhaust manifold flange and you could have removed the whole manifold. Next you are wrong that this issue doesn't cost GM. This issue is bad enough that GM developed the exhaust manifold clamps to same labor on warranty repairs. driving labor down from such repairs from 5ish hours to less than 1 hour. broken bolts do not need to be removed.
heck gaskets don't even need to be replaced under the TSB.
Wow anger issues much??? anyhow I'll hold my own and state that apparently you live in the land with little to no rust because in the rust belt, (Where I'm located) removing those 2 bolts to pull the manifold off has a 50/50 shot of costing you a lot of problems not worth dealing with. BTW not everyone wants to add a hidious clamp to the end of there head hence why I offer it as a option and show the proper solution. Further more good luck using that on the #1 cylinder because the alt bracket is most likely in the way. Also gaskets can be reused sure sometimes........ but good luck when a guy neglects to do the repair for a couple years and it has worn down to almost nothing.
You talk to much, little axion
I got 1 broken bolt. Will not fixing cause more to break?