Old Mechanic Taught Me This Trick To Removing Rusty Exhaust Manifold Bolts!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ค. 2024
- An older mechanic taught me this trick to removing rusty exhaust manifold bolts after watching me snap off a couple. Man I wishI wouldve known this sooner!
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Hello everyone, I went through a divorce and I no longer upload any content to this channel. Come subscriber and check out my new channel here th-cam.com/channels/XkPZYO5clqp8WmKaQo-Rbw.htmlfeatured
Dang man. She took half your channel
Been there done that in 2006. We still get along and together with our now grown children.
Whatever happened never forget what you once had even if someone else is involved it simply means time for a change not time for hate.
What does a divorce have to do with your channel??? (In having to make a new one)
great video dude, on the flip side, some women cant handle a free-spirit kind of guy with big maracas, they want to do the free-spiriting n spend the $ too, u did the right thing! thanks!
I liked the Sandra Bullock n Merryl Stripp comment.
keep the exellent videos coming, God bless!
OMG, the hardest thing I had to do is removing the exhaust bolts.
Never ever, ever say out loud “that came out pretty easy” before the job is completely done, never.
Your absolutely correct because it turns into a nightmare really quick
@@eddieweigel9490 especially the last one!
@@tomdavis3038 Lol! Very true!
It’s like every morning I think it’s going to be an early day and it turns into 12+ hours
Lol I totally agree with that
Extra tip for the torch technique: rust and crud are surprisingly good thermal insulators, so use a wire brush to clean the surface of the are that you want to heat. This will focus the applied heat on the part of the manifold you want to expand, increasing the differential thermal expansion of the manifold versus the bolt.
Also the hottest part of that flame is probably an inch or more from the nozzle, or the end of the blue flame tip.
Heat and apply bees wax
@@adamb1671🔥👍
I'm 76 and have bent wrenches for many years. One trick I learned by experimentation is that ordinary rubbing alcohol slowly dissolves red rust. Patience is required, as the stuff evaporates quickly so it is best to keep the rusty area wet by dripping more alcohol on it, and you may eventually see red rust running down. No heat is required. One man had been trying to remove his frozen irrigation pump's primer plug - which had been only hand-tight before it rusted - was as if it were welded in place. He had tried various techniques, including penetrating lubricants but the plug was still stuck. After hearing about this procedure and patiently dripping rubbing alcohol on it for a while he was able to work the plug back and forth until it was removed easily with his fingers. High-content rubbing alcohol (>90%) is recommended but lesser values will also work, albeit more slowly. This process works equally well for freeing rusted tools.
Hmm. I've actually used 90% alcohol for cleaning atomizers in vape mods to get an extra week of use out of them. I once ran out of alcohol and just went for the witch hazel to see what would happen and it actually worked better at breaking up gunk. I wonder if it could do the same for rust as it does for carbon 🤷♂️
If that works, I'm buying you a beer whether you drink or not!
@@pingpong9656 Please let me know how it works out for you.
Great tips. I've been a plumber for the last 49 yrs and we run into the same poop and I work on the junk wheels I drag home also. One thing you can see on the head you work on is the side of the bolt your working on. The thing I've told apprentices if they've got a seized bolt if they can free it up with some kind of penetrate and you can see the side of the bolt as you try to turn it out is to "watch the side of the bare bolt". If you turn the bolt one iota with the wrench the side of the bare bolt better start to turn too, if the head is turning with whatever wrench you're using the visible side of the bolt better be turning otherwise you're twisting it off. On some of our plumbing equip. if the bolt passes through the equipment but is just flush where you can see it, as you start to turn it that flush end better turn too. Otherwise snap. Do you have any good advice on how to remove studs from VW air cooled aluminium heads as they're always a POS to remove the baked and seized into the head stud.
vinegar molasses evaporust chemically will disolve rust. Heating cherry red if possible will dissolve the rust bond and melt out the rust. I have found penetrating oil will not penetrate. When you use penetrating oil if you notice the threads are always totally dry. If your able to break the bolt loose using Stephens back and forth technique when you have slightly loose spray the threads then tightening will bring some of the penetrating lube further in the threads. The more you can tighten and loosen and spray the more penetrant will get to the threads.
All of your advice here is golden. My only exception would be to start the tighten loosen cycle with a slight tighten. I was a plumber in a past life and was taught to tighten a rusty pipe or fitting before loosening. This has worked very well in my life as a mechanic as well. Your video goes a step beyond that. Thank you, I learned some stuff today. Having snapped my share of exhaust manifold bolts as well as collector bolts, it is certainly well worth every second taken to do it the way you have shown here. I subscribed....and that's sayin something.
Thanks, Stephen. I have snapped off a few bolts in my day due to ignorance of what to do and what not to do 😮
Thanks for your very helpful, very thorough advice 🙂🙂🙂
Remember Stephen, that God loves you, and He wants you to love Him too 🙂
Sometimes setting the air ratchet to tighten and lightly tap before again reversing. Back and forth being careful.
Your very right! A ping with that hammer will do it too
an old timer gave my the best advice to date. I`v been turning wrenches for 30yrs now. here it is, any thing your working on when you get frustrated stop, go get a coffe,pop,beer come back and it will just come apart. Trust me when you try this you will be amazed how it works.
Sometimes that helps to let the penetrating oil soak in, but quite often, it will still be a struggle removing bolts like these...
this is true. even works with stubborn electrical connectors. (No PB Blaster ;)
The best advice on the comment thread no doubt!
Never do anything under heavy emotions, when possible.
My papa used to think about it before bed then the next day he'd get er done!
If you don't have time to do it right, you don't have time to do it over. Love this video.
Abso-dam*-lutely correct. Well said sir.
There’s never enough time to do it right but there’s always enough time to do it twice.
I have a bumper sticker on my toolbox that says
Never enough time to do it right Always enough time to do it over
yeah, doing it twice is a speciality of mine!
Excellent
Thanks for the tip to use CRC Knocke’r Loose. One suggestion when using a torch, the hottest part of the flame is just beyond the tip of the inner cone. If you hold the flame away further it will heat the object quicker. Give it a try and see.
Use a small 1/4 Milwaukee fuel impact (or whatever) on the lowest TQ setting. Let it hammer away for a good 20 seconds on each bolt. Really helps break the bolt loose with the rattle. I was able to break loose all the head bolts on my 70 year old farm tractor using this method.
I just hit with impact punch a few times
I am an old mechanic and I also learned this from an "old mechanic". Some have already mentioned tapping the head, but I'll add a couple of tips - wire brush the head if possible and as Stephen said "use a 6-point socket" however don't use a deep socket use a shallow socket which helps you keep the socket square on the head and avoid rounding the head. Also as you saw the bolt Stephen had trouble with breaking loose initially gave him trouble again when he was removing the bolts. To avoid this on a manifold after getting each bolt loose and retightening all of them, loosen each a quarter turn one by one, then keep repeating the sequence until all bolts are loose. Stephen good job on ur video!!
Awesome advice! My grandfather showed me one more trick that you didn't include. As you are working the bolts don't forget to talk to them. Get to know them. Then they come on out.
Yes use as many words as you now and when you run out of them make some up
but talk sweet no cussing!
Yeah, you are right about talking nice to the bolt. I also say a prayer and ask God for his help too.
And you've got to hold your tongue juuust right.
Some bolts you can sneak up on early the next morning... Be very quiet, as you stage the flank attack.
ive been a mechanic for 30 yrs and its so satisfying when rusty bolts come out easy/easyish.his technique is spot on,although i prefer an oxy/acetelyne torch-more pinpoint.good job
Pure genius. I’ve been snapping manifold bolts for 50 years. Your method is fantastic
I appreciate any brother who takes the time to offer free how-to information on youtube its this attitude that actually makes America great!
We all benefit from knowlege sensibly shared and explained .. no matter where it comes from.
You would be surprised how ordinary peoples lives are better in different countries.
It maybe best in respect of tax collection and spending oh yeah
So free stuff and sharing is more effective than hardline capitalism. Huh weird.
Not only America . The World. I am in Barbados.
@@asiba2 well said!
Great video. I have been a mechanic since the fifties and in that time I have done most things wrong at least once. And when I have I have always made certain I understand what I did wrong. When it comes to rust, corroded bolts I have pretty much mastered the problem. The key to my method is "impact." By that I mean a hammer. One thing you have correctly described is, don't rush it. Spray on the penetrant and let it have some time to do it's work. Come back and put a wrench on the bolt and rock on the bolt head. I like to use a box end wrench and twist left and twist right. Stop. Unless that bolt is clearly going to come out easily, spray and hit it with a small ball peen hammer. Rap on it a bit. Get the wrench back on and twist, alternating directions. Not loosening? Restart the process. The hammering is very important because the shock of the hammer blows breaks up the rust. The penetrant and the shock should do all the work. The wrench (or the socket,) does the unscrewing but It will always be easy if you use enough penetrant, shock and time. Don't rush it. It will work, just be patient and keep repeating the process. One last thing. Get yourself a set of high quality left handed drill bits. If things go bad and the bolt head is gone, use the largest lefty drill bit you can and it will probably unscrew the bolt. Get the bolt out and everything out of the way and tap that bolt hole. Screw the tap in as far as it goes in easily, flood it with penetrant, back out a quarter turn. Repeat until you can turn that tap in there with your fingers. Going together, use a metallic anti-sieze on the threads. This is no indictment of your method, I'm just telling you what I have worked out and what works well for me.
Excellent points to compliment a very useful video. I just returned from a shop and the mechanic said the manifold was leaking and so he failed the inspection. Said he was afraid to fix it for fear of breaking the bolts off. Problem is that there is very little clearance to do the work, but we will give it a shot.
I have used a hammer drill set to hammer only, and a punch, or socket, to press on manifold or bolt, run that for a while. The vibrations break up the rust, as due the other techniques.
Cool info,sometimes its what the guy before you work on it did or didn't do well.Antiseize,locktite,Teflon tape,pipe dope,grease,especially tires i despise a tire shop that makes it impossible to get a wheel OFF.I always have a plumbers helper in my car 2 feet long,this has saved me from AAA having to come out.I like to fix my stuff from my Toyota RAV4,to my Sig P320C, always buy the Chilton manual for your vehicle,over the past 50 years I used them to help rebuild my dads carburetors etc etc ... on all our MGBs to my 41 Ford super Deluxe coupe.Which was my daily driver when I was 16.
There is a product made by Conklin which is called Rust Bomb. It really works, better than any penetrating oil out there. Some distributors for Conklin have made a lot of money through the company with just this product alone. It works on ultrasonic vibrations when using the hammer tapping method. You'll be amazed how well it works.
@Bruce Doxey;
Thank you for sharing you lifetime of experience on this. I greatly appreciate it..
Have to admit I just found your channel. The removal of rusty bolts caught my attention so I had to watch. This is the method I learned 40 years ago with my dad and you are right the key is to go slow and use heat on those that seem impossible. Because of your story and this video content you have my subscription to help you to your goal to be better than ever. Cheers.
For those who may be interested in the materials science at work behind the excellent video: Consider that the unthreaded shank of the bolt has been seized inside the manifold hole with tremendous compression as the rust grew and grew in the annular space. Luckily, the rust crystals are brittle and break when subjected to a little strain. Note that there are two types of deformation for steel: elastic and plastic. Elastic deformation is like stretching a rubber band; when the force is removed it goes back to the starting shape. Plastic deformation is when a permanent change of shape happens. When you first move (crack) the bolt head most of the shank is still seized up, but close to the wrench the shank is undergoing elastic twisting deformation, enough to crack the rust crystals. Twisting the head back the other way a little helps crush the rust crystals, and the elastic deformation can extend a little farther down the shank, cracking more rust as it goes. Note that the manifold is being held to the engine at this point by the seized portion of the shank, and that much of the original clamping force of the bolt head against the manifold may have been relieved. The resistance you feel isn't so much the friction of the clamping force of the bolt head against the manifold that you would feel when tightening a new bolt, but more the torsional strength of the fastener itself. Continuing to twist the head back and forth just a little bit each time can gradually crack and crush the rust crystals all the way to the end without plastically deforming the shank. Ideally, the bolt could be loosened with purely elastic deformation without exceeding its torsional yield strength. Realistically, though, the bolt has become weaker and more brittle by the heat cycles, so it's going to undergo some plastic deformation. A small amount of plastic deformation is okay, as it slightly work hardens that area, allowing the already slightly hardened shank to transfer the force to the softer, unworked part. Emphasize SMALL amount of plastic deformation, because working it back and forth will now put it into fatigue damage mode, and each cycle adds damage. There's a fine line between twisting just enough to crack the rust, and twisting so far that either the ultimate torsional strength or the fatigue strength of the fastener is exceeded. If you just take the breaker bar and unrelentingly twist it until it breaks off, you've exceeded the ultimate torsional strength. If you rock it back and forth with less force than that for a half dozen times and it breaks, then you've exceeded the fatigue strength. The key to success is having the patience to analyze and understand the sources of the resistance you feel when you twist the wrench so you don't exceed either of those limits. (If you want to get a 'feel' for elastic vs plastic deformation, clamp a smaller, maybe longer bolt than you'll be working with in a vice and wrench on it.) Shock waves induced by hitting it with a hammer, etc, can help crush rust crystals and also to vibrate the resulting dust (or sludge, if using penetrating oil) into relatively less confined spaces. Lubricants such as wax or oils can help minimize the effects of friction so it's easier to feel the strength of the fastener itself, as well as to minimize the force required for extraction. Heat can change the structure and mechanical characteristics of the rust itself, as well as causing differential thermal expansion strains, and so can be very effective at breaking down the seizing power of rust.
Excellent writeup on this.
great job every word was worth sharing two thumbs up from a 60 year old with lots of mechanical experience ! 100 0/0
Perfect explanation. Many thanks.
I'm a mechanically qualified individual. Relate perfectly. And can sponge up only perfect practicality. This is it!
To my mind. The shock mentioned, pulverizing rust crystals, is of paramount importance.
RSA.
When in doubt pull out the blue wrench
I'm 70 years old and been using a similar method for most of my working life. You are right on target with your method. Very impressed young man.
Old guys taught me to move back and forth years ago. But never saw anyone retightening until all are loose. Thanks for posting.
Retightening a point well made here and good practice when working on major engine components. Rarely seen by the naked eye but, metal flexes ... even heavy lengths of Railroad Steel Rail Lines.
@@mgjohn8534 I agree. It’s hard to imagine steel moving like clay. But in a way, it does. Brains usually beats brawn.
you really should do it in sequence...not one side to the next.
all excellent ideas! My Dad was a tool & die maker for Caterpillar and taught me another trick - tap on the head of the bolt after spraying your Knocker Loose on the bolt head and thread base. And not just tap - but whang on it!! That tends to loosen up the rusted internal threads so they may turn out easier! Nice job sir.
First up,;
I'd like to thank everyone, for revealing their "Trade Secrets"
Everyone uses different words/language to describe things.
In one Caterpillar manual it suggested "setting up a vibration"
and the picture was of someone beating on it with a hammer.!
and some folks say "Get a bigger hammer"
However, this video is all about,"softly softly, catchly monkey"
One the best things you can do is before you attempt to turn the bolt rattle the bolt with a air hammer, they make a air hammer bit that you can put sockets on. The air hammer vibrates the bolt and helps nock the rust loose. I know it may sound strange. But it truly a game changer
I just ordered the 3/8"/1/2" set from Amazon on your recommendation for my '67 352 motor. Thanks!
👍
You did a GREAT JOB with camera, editing and speaking. You enunciate well and are very easy to understand.
You reviewed a youtube video bro
Yeah, but that ambient (road racket) noise is a bit annoying... lol
And he's a REAL man.
There's a number of us that finds this very satisfying. There's something about a frozen rusty bolt coming out. It's just enjoyable
DEEP JOY moments as we say over here in the UK. Never tire of that... It comes even more frequently with experience.
No, it's shooting the engine with a Dirty Harry gun that's satisfying......
💯 fixing to do one of these and seeing if I can find a new trick or two
It's almost sexual.
Not the same as doing it yourself.
Good job, you are to be commended for your patience and knowledge. Your absolutely correct in that it is exponentially more time consuming and labor intensive to drill out just one broken bolt.
I use this same technique when removing steel screws from aluminum trim pieces on 65 year old year old travel trailers. Dissimilar metal corrosion is the worst. Great advice about not fully removing any bolts until they are all loose.
Tap the bolt heads with a hammer too. The shock load can break loose old corrosion bonds.
Absolutely! Not just tap but wail on them for 20-40 repetitions- this will also swell the head of the bolt which can help with corroded/eroded fastener heads. If tight, just hammer the socket on to reform the head. In the marine industry, all bolts are rusty and stuck. Be sure to use grease or anti-seize on the new fasteners during reassembly.
Brass hammer
If you can get to them hahhaha. But yes indeed I agree, it helps a bunch.
Most of my work now is in the marine world, lots of rusted bolts in the salt air and mostly in very tight spaces.
I retired from the merchant marine and my go to rusty rotted fastener tools were torch, smaller than required impact wrench using the hammer action without too much torque that snaps fastener, disc grinder, air chisel (if you can get a good bite going in the loosen direction, really effective), and welding allen wrench to it. When I first started stainless very expensive, now not so much so I started putting those in and they last a lifetime.
@@bigtuna4037 Ch Eng Unlimited Welders in the shipyards would heat then use the waxy cutting agent for drill bits. Could actually watch the melted cutting agent disappear into the threads. High frequency vibration will work too, just ask any GT tech.
My auto shop teacher from 38 years ago taught us to put a punch On the bolt head Smack it hard with a hammer in line with the bolt or straight on, this sends shockwaves through the bolt to break the bond of rust , this also works if you have steel bolts going into aluminum , but of course you have to have the Clearance to do this,Great video thank you
I 2nd this, I was going to comment about this thick also. This is one of the best tricks I was ever taught when it comes to removing bolts, rusty or not!
Also if you have stainless into cast aluminum in a marine environment. Ships will get water in the radar transmission, it will freeze and burn up the motor which has to be brought down from the stick for a rewind.
A center punch or a blunt punch?
Yuppppppppp
@@dealerauctionnightmare4689 blunt
This is probably the best video I have ever seen regarding stuck screws. Thank you so incredibly much!
It's great that you're now passing on this advice, tricks, and knowledge. Great job on your part. Just knowing this tip/trick can save someone days of work. Thanks!
I was glad you mentioned the one tool that unsuccessful mechanics don't have, that is Patience. When they broke enough bolts then they open up the can of Patience.
Man, if these videos were available back in the 80's it would have saved me a lot of blood, sweat and tears... lol
truth!
I took shop class in the 70’s and we were taught this trick. So I assume you didn’t take shop class or maybe fell asleep at your desk. Just kidding
@@pasqualeparente9776 Probably skipped class that day...
Right!
rogue more like blood sweat and beers
Great video. Great advice. Many years ago, when I started doing my own oil changes, a mechanic told me to only use a 6-point wrench or socket on oil drain bolts so as not to round the bolt head. You are very correct. Knock-Er-Loose rust penetrant is the best I've used. Amazing product. Subscribed. Cheers.
A great tutorial from someone who's clearly incredibly experienced engineer and has a great depth of knowledge. I'm from the UK, shame this guys not just down the road to help me with my old Land Rover! I'm going to use this on my rusty old exhaust pipe bolts loose!
PATIENCE!! The magic word to being a mechanic!!
The forbidden word
I appreciate you taking time to explain the how and the why. Often people forget to include both elements. Keep the good content rolling.
Sometimes, people don't know WHY it works.
When you tell someone how to do a job, they will forget before they have to do it the next time. But when you explain why, they will remember it forever. The understanding of the reasons is also transferable to other similar problems.
My motto is, keep your brain one step ahead of your fists and if it does not work, you are probably doing it wrongly, so put the kettle on and seek some advice.
I like the idea of tightening them back down so you’re not fighting the released clamping force. Once you get to gotta cut the bolt head off, I like to use a pipe wrench so the twisting force can be closer to the threads. Awesome video, awesome technique.
This has to be the MOST informative advice I have received/watched on engine bolts. I have exhaust bolts that are original and I am guessing they are not going to come out gently. I will do as you say, an hope for the best. a little chilly doing it outdoors,but we all must do with what we have, regardless of the circumstances.
Thank you for your advice I will update when the replacement is complete.
Great stuff! I do have another method that often works in places where you CAN'T use heat, and that's using COLD. The best way I've found for that was to use an INVERTED can of "spray air", usually marketed for blowing off computer keyboards, etc., and to spray the LIQUID on the fastener itself (and NOT the surrounding metal). This causes the fastener itself to shrink....a LOT...and can often free it up. I work with aluminum head engines often, where heat is your enemy. The *extreme* cold using this method works great! I had occasion to insert a roller bearing into the end of a crankshaft, where the outer diameter of the bearing was a few thousandths bigger than the hole. Opening up the crankshaft wasn't possible (engine was still together), so I used this method to shrink the bearing. It was a small bearing, less than 1" in diameter, but I tested this method on it. Amazingly, it shrank 17 thousandths of an inch, and was literally loose in the hole! I kept spraying the bearing until it was uniformly white. Of course, once it warmed up, it was tight in the hole, but it worked perfectly.
thanks
For old Harley heads that needed the guides replaced,id heat the head to remove the guides,after cleaning them first,then heat the head when installing the guide,but id freeze the guide in the fridge so it would go it really easy,once the head is cold the guide is locked tight as a drum,done it a million times lol.
@@bruceperron3796 Ive used the freezer to help shrink bearing races down before I installed them. I've never installed rod guides before, but I know what they are as I have put heads on engines. The day will come when I do install guides and I will remember this.
That's what she said!
Good Man ...... that's got to be worthy of Tip Of The Day ! 🏆
I drove my vehicle for a week knowing I had to replace the exhaust manifold, I sprayed the bolts everyday with penetrating oil. The next week when I went to remove them, they all came out super easy. The heat expanded the head and manifold after driving and since there was more heat in those areas verses the bolt the oil was drawn into the areas that needed the lube. I learned a long time ago that you heat where you want the oil to go. I did have one bolt that was broke on the bottom back side, no idea how long it was broke or missing but since I was spraying it anyway when I tacked on a nut, it came right out also. Nice video, keep them coming.
.
This is one of the most value-added videos (for me at least) that I have seen in a long time in TH-cam, especially if you are hands-on person. Great video! Thanks
I did exactly what you did in this video, and worked perfectly!! I wish I had seen this video before I did the passenger side.I broke off a bolt in the head, took days and many drills and a broken easy out, and a broken tap.Thanks for teaching me patience.
This is a lot tougher in the northeast when a lot of times, those manifold bolt heads more closely resemble hammered rivets after the rust has it's way.
I spend hours watching the mechanic at South Main Auto remove bolts with Northern rust.
This so true... I've worked on so many cars that have had exhaust issues because the bolts/nuts/studs have rusted to nothing...
I was thinking the same thing. New Englander here....
nabob14 rusted exhaust almost always better to cut and replace. You won't be reusing rusted out fastners.
Lol y’all keep calling it “Northern Rust.” Let me show you my truck that lived on the coast of the Carolinas for most of its life.🤣
I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet: Heating the parts first, then spraying with cold lubricant will suck the lubricant into the threads. Repeated heating & cooling will cause the lubricant to penetrate more.
Oh yes indeed. I thought every man knew that: you gotta heat the parts first then spray with lubricant... which will suck the lubricant into the threads ... and cause the lubricant to penetrate more 😋
Capillary action is indeed an awesome trick
@@Xiggy4Ever indeed it is.
Great tio. Well try this.
Cheap: Mineral spirits and oil.
I refuse to pay $6 for a can of whatever.
Add some acetone too.
Great demo. There is a subtle touch to dealing with mechanical things and a higher order of technique that most people do not appreciate. I have been almost brought to tears getting the steel manifold bolts corroded through and broken odd out of the aluminium block of and airplane.
Thank you. Brilliant tutorial. Great seeing this method live. Sir, you are a genius.
I’m a big fan of the six-point socket. Also bang it with a hammer. Sometimes I turn my impact wrench down to the lowest setting and let the gentle shock waves work their magic. And heat is always good.
I also make sure I have antiseize on my hands, face, pants, shirt, hat and everything in the house that I touch or just walk by...
Cell phone, mailbox, dog, Git-n-Go cup, flashlight, truck tool box handles, lunch...
Just call me "The Tin Man"
YES! This step is critical.
Ahh yes, Anti-sieze. The herpes of the automotive world! Haha!
Love that humor
I have been working vehicles for many years, and every single tip is important, ty for the tips, and all the information,
Two thumbs up. Thank you for sharing. Suggestion: Mapp gas (yellow bottle) burns hotter. Takes less time to heat up the area you need to heat up. Also, because it takes less time to heat up, the heat does not spread out as quickly to the areas where you do not want the heat to spread. We do something similar at the steel mill when unbolting flanges that have been out in the elements for over 50 years. I always appreciate the information and advice that you share. Keep up the good work!
Thank you. I forgot about this technique. An old school mechanic showed me this almost 30 years ago. You are a great teacher just like him!
Now that is what I call QUALITY content.
Good advice. That's why guys like you get paid in accordance.
Patience is KEY!!!
Spot on mate nothing to add , you learned me a few tricks to-day that will come in real handy when i do my Mercedes M103 EX manifold
I worked in a engine rebuild shop for 11 years and learned this exact same technique patience is the key great job👍
trtl LwAz wins the rAc👋
(wat Xactly is a 'cris cros patrn' in a strAt lIn of 6 bolts?)
I’ve had the best luck with a big hammer and punch, especially with Alan socket head bolts. All the steps in this video are crucial for young and rammy mechanics. Great video.
Thank you so much for the tips and thank you for taking the time to do this video for us!
Outstanding technique & patience, kudos to you!
I like the reminder of replacing manifold bolds once they have been removed
Exactly 💯
After you torch it, spray it with more penetrating oil. The heat will draw it into the bolt hole.
Also smart the bolt heads with a hammer a few times before you try loosening them
That is called “Wicking”. It is not the heat drawing it in, it is cooling down that draws it in. Plumbers use wax.
Hammer is a good idea, I have found this helps. Assume it moves the bolt just enough to break the corrosive bond. Though, heat is the one thing that nearly always works.
@@lynnchello7231 I have a spray bottle with water in it and squirt directly on bolt after heating....then loosen
Exactly what my father taught me nearly 60 years ago. He called them short-sharp "twat-hits". Works like magic until you realize it's just physics.
Air chisels work pretty well at vibrating the bolt if there isn't enough room to get a good swing with a hammer.
Best how to I've ever seen iv been restoring a 95 ford bronco and I'm trying to do manifolds in the truck on a 5.8 tomorrow and that gave me a good insight on how I need to proceed thank you
Thank you for the great lesson! I had a couple of cooked in manifold bolts and heavy rust. I followed your advice and got my bolts out without any heat!
An old man on the job taught me the same thing 30 years ago.
Good to see someone sharing some important knowledge.
Well done, Sir.
Only thing I do differently is to loosen them in the same sequence they would be tightened.
Loved the video! As a mechanic, I appreciate other mechanics handing down knowledge. I learned from older mechanics who had nightmares after bolts broke on them.. we try not to relive their mistakes. Take your time!Thanks
great demonstration, it's a real treat to get the benefit of your experience! thank you
Great video. I was a mechanic then and Automotive Teacher and then Fleet Mechanic. I started using MAP gas rather than propane. Also sometime shocking the bolt by hitting the head with a good size hammer. Now that I'm retired, I'm restoring a 1930 Ford Model A Ford Coupe. Every bolt is 1/4 turn from a 3-day nightmare.
Everything said was exactly correct, take time, plenty of penetrating lube and don’t get lazy! One final trick before heat, depending on access to the bolt, is a hammer and punch, but be gentle, don’t nail on it like trying to cut it off, shock from hammer blows is why impacters work!
It's awesome how people share their methods, with drawn out statements criticizing the video, but they haven't made their own video.
Need to prove there better to ppl who don’t gaf
I agree I posted alot of ways but would never criticize someone offering a tip to make our lives easier
Ty for the advice, I have had trouble in the past with bolts and will adopt your method. Tight/loose..fab informative video 👍
I've done this same thing, and it is awesome that you also found a simple propane torch will work as well.
Well done! Tapping it with a hammer can help break the rust between the manifold and bolt also.
Another reassembly reminder: do not use hardened bolts during reassembly - mild steel only
How about stainless steel bolts?
I learned this method when I worked on tractor trailers. Old gentleman showed me this. He also tapped on the bolts before turning. And he said always use new volts when you can. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
You are now that awesome wise older mechanic! That was a great video for many reasons! Martin.
Thank you for doing a little summary at the end of the video. It was a huge help.
This has got to be the best advice video I've seen. You are "The Man" and so is that old man.
Thank you Steven! It’s always good to get some reinforcement or a refresher, how ever you put it, you nailed this one! Thank you for being real!
Great video for every rusty bolt, haven't broken one since doing that method of loosening and tightening.
This is some very valuable information, and is insightful and logical. The process is much like taping holes and threading rods in steel, as in taking it easy and backing it up, often. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing! Like you, I cherish any and all information from the old schoolers; and all the great TH-cam mechanics out there. I like how you explained why you tightened those bolts back up as you methodically broke the rest free. Also liked how you explained the "rust jacking" taking place in the manifold holes.
Thank you for putting this video out there. I knew most of the tricks already from Hard Knocks Academy and patience is definitely hard to learn when it comes to exhaust bolts and such. This job alone is the reason my shop has a sign reading, "Every 15 minute job is one broken bolt away from being a 3-day ordeal." Now, I soak the bolt with panther pi55, wait 15 minutes, and spray it again. Hammer shocking is good (as mentioned below). Heat is your friend.
Nice patient Work! Patience and good strategy is the key!
Awesome. I do marine work and run into this every week. Very helpful.
I’ll never forget my favorite automotive teacher in college told us “ sometimes you need to tighten a bolt or but a little to loosen it”
This is solid gold information right here, wish I had known this many years ago. Thanks for putting this out it will definitely make a lot of mech lives easier.
Best video out just when I thought I knew all the tricks. Great info thank you
and just like that look who's the old mechanic now :}
Now Thats Funny :)
i’m 17 and want to be a mechanic, god bless you for showing me this skill
Welp being 26 and doing it I can tell you 1 piece of advice I can say is make sure you have as many of the correct tools at your disposal as you can afford to have.
No U Even the things that will be like a once or twice use?
@@antnay_beastz9361 Use the loan a tool on them and if you start using them often then you consider investing in them heck most of my tools are harbor freight etc snap on stuff is a real fast way to a bunch of debt
No U yea i’ve seen all the memes about snap on being a waste of money
@@antnay_beastz9361 if its going to be used once or twice, you're local auto parts store should have it for rent. You pay for the part, and get your money back when you return it.
TY so much Sir, I have broken many bolts on Jeeps through the years. This will definitely help for future jobs.
Good point about not removing a bolt totally before loosening the others. So often on rusted bolts, I forget this one. One thing I have found helpful in addition is this. After heating area with torch, spray penetrating oil on hot bolt, it just sucks it in like crazy. I know you said acetone +atf will burn. Patience is key here, spray the mixture a couple times a day for a couple days before actually laying a wrench on the bolts, you can generally get them out without excessive fear of breakage. Thanks for a good video
Yep, this method works. I learned this from a retired millwright who worked at Puget Sound Naval Shipyard. Sharp hit in the tightening direction can also help in the beginning. I also spray more rust blaster when turning back and forth. That pumps more liquid in to the joints. Favorite blaster is Kroil and I use nickel based anti-seize on exhaust manifolds fasteners. It's made for higher temperatures, but follow OEM guidance for sensors.
A small detail on a well conceived, well executed video: the highest temp you're gonna have on your torch is just off those blue cones in the middle of the flame. Don't smother the flame, pull your torch back a bit and there's your highest heat source. You nearly hit every one of the other details I've needed to use in decades of getting bolts loose except for striking the bolt to shake the rust loose. All in all, Good Job!
Anyone who used a Bunsen burner in school should remember being taught that.
I am a retired plumber, I was going to make the same comment, much quicker when brazing gas pipes
Great Advice - been there done that - also used a few easy-outs in my time - but thanks mate for sharing this, them bolts can draw blood and sweat and tears and this is valuable information
Great presentation! I worked on vehicles and various machines for 35 years. I have never seen that technique. Fantastic. Of course, I hope I never have to. Thanks.
my dad taught me this, but to always work from the inside out. I never start with the outside bolts or corner bolts like for a valve cover job. great video man!
e90: Yeah, that makes sense....like the man said, retighten after loosening.
That gets your inner bolts scenario as your Dad said.... Sound advice.
Cheers.
Even when putting it back together?
Having been a machinist for 42 years, I agree 100% with your manifold bolts removal process. I have found that once removed toss the removed bolts. I always buy new boots at Tractor Supply stores I get the grade-8 bolts and use the copper anti seize compound liberally prior to installing them. Thanks for that great and very helpful video.
I have a question for you my friend, or anyone else for the matter. I recently replaced my manifold on my '06 Mercury Milan Permier with 227,000 plus miles. And to my surprise all the Nuts came free, and didn't break the studs! Now, these 2 are separate, the stud is a Torque tip that's bottomed out before the manifold is put on with the proper gasket. Then the nuts.
So, now I have oil leaking from some of the holes and along the top. My question, should I replace them even though they look ok? They do seem to be smaller than they should. Now that I think about it after this video.
🤔 🤔🤔🤔
A BIG YES ! On the COPPER ANTI SEIZE !
@@erocklaw74 Your manifold bolts have 227K on them. That's a lot of heat for a lot of time. If it were me doing what your doing I'd pull those studs after soaking them with a quality penetrate. Take on to NAPA Auto parts and buy new ones 1/4 to 5/16 longer. Show them your bolt . Long story short, your bolts stretched !
Is finally somebody with some intelligent advice It seems like you know what you're doing thank you for the advice I hope it works for me
May I thank you for bringing back memories of what my grandfather had taught me. It means so much to me! GOD BLESS YOU SIR!
I remember you doing a video about this a few years ago and it has been a life saver ever since. So many jobs I've done where my friends told me I was absolutely gonna break bolts but I didn't. It just took a while.
Great vid! Working them back and forth is something you rarely see mentioned in other vids as well as leaving them in place until all are broken free. These are tricks learned after several youthful attempts to simply muscle them out. Over the decades, I've found gentling them back and forth with guarded pressure, sometimes even with several cycles of back and forth without feeling any movement to get the ball rolling. We live in the overly salted Northeast because the cupcakes here can't bear to see snow on the roads they travel until they move South, and an over abundance of ambulance chasing slip and fall lawyers (this doesn't apply to all attorneys!). The level of rust here is astounding! I also utilize a small 3/8" air impact turned way down, and slowly increasing the force can help rattle them loose too. The same rule of patience applies; gentling them back and forth with heat and spray penetrant has saved countless hours of off-center drilling and thread damage repair. We still have plenty of rusted/broken ones that require nuts welded on simply because they dissolved in the salt and we can't turn them any other way.
Hello, Stephen. Your video on loosening rusted manifold bolts saved me. I bought a 2018 RV from a dealer. After getting it home I discovered the water heater had never been drained. The heating rod was corroded into the tank opening and was not about to let go. I sprayed it with lock freeze, or unfreeze, then WD - 40. Let it sit a day or 2. I used a narrow chisel to knock the corrosion loose from the tank keeping it away from the threads. Brushed it with a small wire brush, tapped it with a small ballpeen hammer, then applied your technique. Pressure. Flip the switch. Pressure flip the switch. Took about 10 switches but it came loose without damage. Your technique saved me a lot. The dealer should have done it during make ready. Now I have to clean the remaining sediment out of the tank and it will be ready to go. I'd take it in for them to work on it but they are 12 weeks out on repairs. Won't work. Now I need to learn how to screw the couch to the floor. This is my responsibility. Thanks again!!
You're the man thank you for your help fantastic information for me to hold on to