Joel Seim is it possible to change that part of the engine that he's working on? n can u tell me what part of the engine is called , mines cracked where the bolt is supposed to go in so now every new bolt keeps breaking in that part n the belt comes off
@MAD GRUMPYMAN A lot of the time it is because some 300 lbs gorilla who over torqued the bolt to the point of failure. I know a LOT of manufacturers cheap out, namely Vehicle manufacturers on exhaust bolts. For $10 more they could use stainless bolts and then no mech would ever have a problem removing them. But the OEMs are more interested in selling you on the colour changing interior lights and jimmy jims and hoohas than building a decent vehicle.
Usually when I snap off a bolt, it's because it's hopelessly corroded (that's why it wouldn't come out). Step one, drill a hole in the bolt. Step two, snap your drill bit off in the hole. Step 3, swear....a lot.
Drilling a bolt and using this to guide a drill bit into the center of a sheared bolt just saved my company tons of money and machine down time on an industrial machine. Also, it made me look like a resourceful, smart engineer. Thank you!
You would look like a smarter engineer if you bought a "vented screw" which already has a hole in the middle. That will save a lot more time and money from labor of trying to get it dead centered.
Yea I tried not following your recommendation of go drink a beer, and I broke the drill bit inside of the broken bolt . Now Im following your direction and Im repeating the beers until I forget it ever happened. Problem fixed
Thanks for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video. I usually click away.
I love the centring jig. A broken bolt is enough to make you cry. You instantly get that sinking feeling when you know the bolt just broke, however the feeling of joy when you're holding the broken little bastard in your hand once you've removed it is priceless.
I broke a head stud in a bored and stroked 5.3l last week. 3.5" down in a hole. Crazy how tough it is seeing how easily it broke. 5 days later and I've only made it a quarter the way thru. Went thru probably 9 bits. Got the hole off centered some. They don't make left had bits that long. Studs don't even have torque to hold them in, you torque the opposite side. But the bastard won't spin. I got a extractor stuck in it, gotta weld a nut on to spin it. Praying that finally works. Needless to say I should've spent the $400 on ARP studs instead of $140 Speedmaster. Don't ever trust them or their torque specs. I'll seriously probably cry manly tears of joy if I can get it out. Otherwise the entire engine comes out and goes to the machine shop. Would be a good time to upgrade to 1/2" studs even tho that wouldn't be needed for 900hp
I've spent 40 some years having to remove broken bolts out of situations like these. The idea of drilling out a bolt to use as a guide is an excellent idea. The idea of a hinge sighting drill is new to me, also. Great ideas!!
You’re saving lives mate, I worked in the UK for 13 years, you’ve helped me lots of times then, I moved home now, yore helping me here! Many thanks and all the best!
Absolutely genius. I'm 42yo and never heard about or seen a hinge/ self centering drill bit. I've been fighting broken bolts for decades. This blows my mind and I'm ordering some now. I've got bolt extractors and left handed bits, but always have an issue drilling through the center of a broken bolt. Thanks for sharing.
@@351clevelandmodifiedmotor4 Also called a Vix bit. Traditionally used in woodworking to insure a drilled hole is centered in the hole already bored in a hinge. That way when the screw is fastened the hinge doesn't walk to one side or the other sending the door out of alignment. I would imagine thats why it's also known as a hinge drill, though I have never heard it called that. I have never considered a vix bit for this purpose and I have tons of them. Genius!
I have removed hundreds of broken bolts, but I have never seen your idea of drilling a hole in a bolt for a guide. I guess your never too old to learn a new trick. Thanks for your time.
This is one of the best videos I have seen about removing broken bolts for DIY person. I "had" a broken bolts in my 2008 Chevy Cobalt automatic transmission pan. Thank you.
I was taught by my old foreman and mentor, he said that “the harder the material is, the slower you go “ that covers drilling, tapping, lathe and milling work. Like the channel but love AEG tools more! Have a great 2020!
Machining is more of an art than a science.. Plus you have to have a fetish for bits... All kinds of bits.. Standard bits, end mills, taps/dies, ferrous oxide, cobalt steel, high carbon steel, etc.. Bits are your friends!! hehe
Drilling out some bolts for different sized threads was a GREAT idea. I've drilled out wooden dowels to do the same basic thing, but your bolt idea is much more accurate and dependable! A quality set of bolt extractors adds to the enjoyment of having that lodged bolt finally land in your hand.
What a great video. Now I know how to use a stud extractor etc. Drilling a cap head bolt to use as a guide is such a great idea! Thanks for taking the time to show this type of stuff here on TH-cam - much appreciated. Best Regards SR.
So glad I found your socket head bolt jig technique. I had a broken recessed manifold bolt on my 5.7 hemi engine in a tight space that I was able to utilize your technique to extract it. Thank god because I couldn't find a local auto machine shop to do this job so I was at a real loss until I saw your video. I only had 5" of space to work with and there was no way I could get a hammer on a punch to mark center on this recessed bolt. The only real modification I had to do was to cut the drill bit shaft back about an inch so my right-angle drill attachment with the shortened drill bit could be inserted into the socket head jig. Thank you
You have no idea how good it is to read your comment. Often people give me grief, with comments such as- "try that in a engine bay" "it's easy on the bench" "try it when the bolts are rusty" etc. You have made my day by using the bolt guide and adapting your own drill bit to shorten it 😉 Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman All those haters just don't understand that these are just samples for techniques to try. Not every broken bolt can be extracted, using this method. Not everything is going to be perfect. People searching for a "one fix fix all" is living in a pipe dream. Thanks for showing off the techniques that you utilize to attempt bolt extractions.
A highly-skilled and experienced teacher - patient, professional and responsive to Q's. I do like his technique of repeating crucial elements, like being careful to not drill through the screw into the aluminum pan! What a thrill to see the broken bolt extracted. Almost 8mil views - I'm not surprised - a tribute.
@@alan-sk7ky I have encountered hundreds of hex head screws. And a few Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx, square and slotted head bolts. Screw: threads into a threaded hole. Bolt: Passes through both parts, has a nut on the other side.
I'm glad I stumbled over this video. In the process of my first engine swap project and I've been teaching myself everything. I noticed a few bolts snapped from the exhaust manifold and I've been quietly panicking over them. This video probably saved my knuckles, cash and headaches easily.
I already posted this, but as you may not see it ... _I worked a diesel turbocharger bench (Cats)(mid-1970s). Many frozen and subsequentialy busted bolts on the exhaust side._ _Center punch the bolt, drill it, use a 'pick' to pull the remains from the threads. If the threads were damaged, drill the hole to a proper size, tap it and insert a heli-coil ... good as new and didn't take very long._
The name of the game is slow and easy don't get frustrated walk away first get the drill centered don't allow it to walk multiple heat and spray cycles heat pulls in oil especially if you can drill all the way thru bolt so oil gets to the backside of the bolt. If you have some of the bolt sticking above surface before you tear it up with vise grips put a nut on it and weld together heat From welder will help. Once you get it to break loose take time and work it back and forth. As you are removing it and it starts to tighten up screw it back in a little movement is better than none once again take your time if it's loose keep spraying it oil will work it's way around when loose
I dunno. 99.9% of the broken bolts I ever encounter are right at the surface of the hole and you could never use one of those drilling fixtures. Of the 99.9% the majority are completely corroded or jammed in the threads and even if you make a nice hole in the center an easy- out still won’t turn it. I usually have to get a small hole as close as possible to center and then progress up in size till I’m right at the edge of the thread and then try to use a tap to clear out the remaining thread of the bolt without tearing up the base thread. You are very lucky, it looks like all yours came out with easy- out extractor
You are very skilled at your trade. My only comment is to always blow ALL debris out of the hole before using the extractor. Grains of sand or bolt particles in the aluminum threads can destroy the threads during extraction.
Some great ideas there. Have to say as a professional automotive mechanic I haven't seen to many deep broken bolts or studs. Most all are flush with surface or smidge below.
One site, most are flush or just proud of the surface, but on a couple of machines we get them recessed in the hole, which made me think of ways of getting them out. Thanks for the comment 👍
There is a differance between a professional mechanic and a handy man. Salute. Thank you for your service sir. The number of your likes speaks volumes.
something that everyone seems to forget to mention about using left hand drill bits to extract a broken bolt is the importance of drilling in short burst with steady pressure, it's the constant stopping that allows the bit to dig in and begin spinning the broken bolt, also if the item is important enough the best easy out ever is a back ground tap, if easy outs have failed, as a last resort you take an appropriate size tap and put a reverse grind on the tip so it grabs spinning backwards, you may waste a tap but chances are you will save the part, this trick pulled me out of one of my most desperate situations ......
This video helped me to successfully remove six broken bolts on a John Deer Lawn Tractor Spindle. I always use the anti-sieze compound when replacing Spindles, and this saves a whole lot of manual labor. Thank you for this very informative and detailed video.
Great tips! I had never used a drilled out bolt to center the hole. I have done hundreds of snapped off bolts before. A tip back atcha! Use your wrench to turn the extractor in while tapping on it to get a better bite. It provides an impact driver like effect, and, I believe, in many of my extraction experiences, made the difference between a successful extraction, and snapping off the extractor.
This is such a brilliant solution, you should market these so people don't have to make their own. BTW: I use a left-handed drill bit when extracting broken bolts, it often unwinds it without the need for an easy out.
What bugs me is how fragile the extractors tend to be. I've snapped off enough of them to usually make this a nerve-wracking job. Drilling a bolt as drill guide is a great tip - thanks a lot for that one!
Done it lol. Ended up dissembling the casing of the thing I was working on and sent it to a welder. He welded some shit onto the exposed tap and turned both the extractor and the tap out
Much appreciated. One more minor addition is to use a vacuum cleaner after drilling to ensure unwanted swarf is removed, further reducing the chance of thread damage.
Your samples came out so easily with easy-outs. It reminds me of my most amazing case of a broken water pump bolt on a Toyota. The broken bit was a the bottom of an inch+ of clearance hole down to threads deep in the cast iron engine block. Drilling a hole in the broken bolt with a long bit was easy enough - this was back when Japanese bolts were notoriously soft. To this day I still am totally amazed that I got away with a brazed extension (old valve stem) on an easy-out to get the bite deep enough. The broken part came out as easily as the samples in the video . Wow, did that really work?! I do like your tip with the alignment hole through a bolt. Too bad my cases are always near flush so no threads to engage. I tend to end up with grinding the end flat, if possible, and very carefully centerpunching for the drill, starting small and working larger, depending how well centered. My cases are typically locked in place with corrosion and easy-out has low chance of success. The best helper has been to head the part to dull-red with torch, which I suspect expands the bolt into the rust and creates a little clearance when the bolt cools.
Heat seems to work when nothing else does. Heating then shock cooling sure helps to loosen rust frozen bolts, but you still need liquid wrench and torque!
one of the MOST frustrating things in any workshop is a broken bolt. One of the MOST satisfying feelings is when you feel the broken bolt start to turn and you perform successful removal.
Today this video taught me: 1) Center-drilled bolt to serve as a drill guide; 2) Use of a door-hinge guide fitted with left-hand drill bit; 3) "Swarf" is the name for the chips of debris that result from drilling/machining/etc.
This is the best how-to presentation I have ever seen on TH-cam! Very time-efficient & factually accurate. And the video was rock solid. No left-handed jerky camera work here. Thanks for the vid!
As a few people have asked for the video translating, I have now had subtitles added to the video in French, Russian, Spanish and Italian. Thanks to the TH-cam user that translated the video title, description and added subtitles to the video in Dutch, I'm afraid I do not know who you are, but it really is appreciated 😉
In the US, we say "dih-an" (didn't) and "stray-aned" (straightened). I actually prefer his correct pronunciation... It annoys the hell out of me when people leave out the second T (and other consonants) in many of our words...
I just speak like 99% of other people in this area. It was only when I was 15 and went down South that I realised I had an accent, as people kept asking me if I came from Yorkshire 😂
I've found that using a ratchet on the back of the screw extractors and applying pressure while twisting in most situations does a better job of biting into the bolts than using a hammer. Plus, less worry of a hitting wrong and bouncing off the threads. The drilled bolts for centering drillbits is nothing short of pure genius.
Perfect tip for the dril bit guide! Also the left hand dril bit! Thanks! In my days I also 'welded' broken bolt or thread ends out. You can only not do it with very deep broken bolts. Lay done a similar size nut and weld it from inside out the broken bolt to the inside nut. Due to the heat, the broken bolt wil expand and crush any rust . Let it cool down totally and slowly turn it out. Most of the time it worked for me! Also a penetrant oil, q20,w40 works great but spray it days before and repeat it every day so it can do its work. In combination with tapping on it works also mostly. Good luck with your work and program!
The process works if the bolts are in good shape like yours(clean threads). I've worked on many bolts with corroded threads that no left hand drill bit or extractor would work. Instead of making those centering bolts, you can use a small bushing from the hardware store. Choose one that fits inside the opening.
I do believe that there are some bolts that can not be removed. I recently replaced two brake wheel cylinders with bleeder screws broken off. To get some practice with such things I went to work on the old ones in a vice on the bench. A number of heat/cool cycles left hand drill/extractor, PB Blaster; tossed them out with the screws still stuck.
If the bolt is at least 8 mm 5/16" the best way to get them out is to weld on them and build them up out of the hole and the weld a nut on it and vola it in most cases can be screwed out. Just watch out you must use a chromium weld rod not a usual welding rod
The character of the rod is that it is very accurate it does not fly to the side and the flux more or less isolate the side of the hole for any splatter and last but not least it is normally much stronger than normal rutil rod
Thank You so much for this tutorial, i had a broken oil level Bolt on a Honda engine, i bought a kit of reverse drill bit and screw renovers, just like your and in 20 minutes i manged to remove the 6mm broken bolt without ruining the thread. Top marks!!!
As a Industrial maintenance mechanic w/over 20 yrs. experience can say I am found of left hand drill bits, and the use of guides like shown in this video is a must, as they never shear off cleanly it seems, and often when you get them drilled a bit, they will loosen and you can take a pin punch, or even a screwdriver jammed somewhat into the hole and back them out. The 'hinge-guide-driller' was a great idea..must admit hadn't thought about that one..but the bolts with holes made in a lathe, is something we used for years.
once you drill right through the bolt it comes out easier, I think it reduces the strength and it cant apply the same gripping force. Plenty of penetrating oil and one turn out quarter back as if you are tapping a thread helps prevent breaking it in the first place.Oh and really impressive video
on broken bolts that arent flat I always start the drill 90 degres from the spot I want the drill to start in. what I mean is that someone will inevitably run over and check to make sure I know what I am doing, cause it looks like I am drilling sideways into the part. when the drill gets its start, move(while the drill is turning) to your correct angle and drill into the center of the bolt. you make a start where you want it to be, then adjust angle and it should be right in the middle. got this trick from an old machinist school book. originaly it was a way to get a hole started in precisely the right place and prevent 'walking' that also involved making punch marks just so to nudge the bit over to where you want it and I modified that. old books are better than the internet, you dont need electricity to use them.... also there was this thing called "proof reading" back in the day when printing presses were set type...
Hollow bolts. Yep, definitely Industrial Maintenance Mechanic tools. Not what a "handyman" would usually be able to fabricate. Not unless his steam punk grandpa handed him down his old lathe.
Like a lot of other people commenting I'm 71 yrs old and this is the first time I've seen this drilled out bolt guide trick , pretty slick , great job .
Solid video mate. In my time in an Aero engine workshop I learned a few techniques to remove broken studs and bolts and I've never seen the cap head bolt guides used. Nice work. Helicoil repairs was another useful skill too. I've said it plenty of times, the person that invented screw extractors is an absolute genius. Nothing beats that feeling of removing a broken bolt cleanly.
That's really clever, thanks for sharing! Over my 40 yrs. or so of working on mechanical things I've always dreaded broken off bolts. Badly corroded ones are the worse and if you don't have your own machine shop equipment it's really challenging.
I had a guy with a Cummins in a Dodge with broken exhaust manifold bolts. I gave him a quote on exhaust manifold R&R then told him that the bolts will be T&M. Almost all of the broken bolts came out easily. Like put the left hand drill bit in there and turn it right out easy. One of them I actually had to tap in an easy-out, but it took next to nothing to break it loose. That was a good day.
Also worth googling "hollow bolt". There's already-made ones out there, though mostly in metric it seems. Might be cheaper (and quicker?) than having a machine shop make them.
Look, I know this is a 2 year old post. But I feel I have to share this. 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L. Over torqued a head bolt and about 1 1/4 inches of thread broke off in the block. BY FAR...the easiest extraction I've ever done simply by using your method here. Left handed drill bit took it all the way out. Thanks, man!!! You just saved this engine! After 6 months of trying, I was about to junk it. But all it took was this. Thanks again! 👍
Heat rusty bolts before they snap, also cooling quickly with the penetrating oil will cause a separation between bolt and job. The idea is to spray wd on the bolt itself so it cools and shrinks within the job, it also burns out the rust
If it's in aluminum and you can't get a drill to it, AVE has a video on youtube where you use a chemical to erode the bolt over a couple of days. The chemical doesn't affect the aluminum at all and eats away the steel bolt. You can accelerate it using a 40 watt lightbulb by warming the chemical. Search youtube, it will tell you what the chemical is.
@@Ronnock These things require patience that I do not have; For you question you just jack with it until you get it out keeping down-payment for new car on deposit account at retail bank ▬ >>>> Otherwise be ready to get exercise by walking!
that was the best video i have ever seen how to remove broken bolts. description was perfect and understanding as well..keep up the good work that was a great video
Great video. I enjoyed watching being I was a Diesel mechanic for 27 years. The tools you used to center the drill bit was genius. Sir you have talent. Nice work.
Same. Living where I do broken bolts are all too common. These are all the techniques I would use. I hadn't seen the hinge tool before though. Wouldn't actually be that hard to drill some through holes in various bolts, which I think you were suggesting Big Ben, and use those as guides too.
good tips! i like the self centering drill and bolt pilot. ive never had anything come out that easily however. where i live, in the "rust belt" of the us, nearly everythibg is pretty well rusted and siezed up. we are pretty experiemced with removing broken bolts. Absolutely my #1 suggestion is stack the deck in your favor to avoid getting in this situation in the first place. soak the bolt in penetrating oil, sometimes days if you have to, use allot of heat if you can, and use impact tools. bolt head rounding is also a verry common problem here, and i have grown to love the impact rated spiral toothed sockets for extracting rounded bolt heads. 95% of the time the bolt breaks flush with the surface of the part so unfortionatly those great techniques of center drilling wouldnt work, but i find that using a center punch i can usually get a decently centered hole. however i dont think ive ever gotten one of those screw extractors to actually work, if you think about it the bolt has usually broken by putting full torque on the bolt head, so the idea that a much smaller screw extractor will get it out when full torque on the bolt head didnt do it is a bit dubious. I will usually try a screw extractor on the off chance that it works and dosent itself break in the hole, and more often than not i just end up having to drill the hole out and tap it larger or helichoil it
Good post. This is a great video but in the real world I never have stuck bolts that come out as clean as his did and the screw extractors rarely work on a rusted or corroded bolts. Not to mention the moron that cross threaded it in the first place. Tap and die set after I drill the bolt are usually what I have to do.
The reason a bolt extractor sometimes works when the bolt has been broken off at the hex is simply because, with the fastener clamping two parts together, the bolt is in tension - it's STRETCHED! Think about it; often you can't budge a screw but after cutting off the head and removing the part it's securing, you put a Vise Grip on what's left an it turns right out. Not all the time, but often.
I always, unless there's no room for me to, strike the bolt with a non pointed punch and hammer or an air hammer w/punch to break the corrosion's bond and slightly deform the threads leaving a bit of wiggle room before applying heat and wax or other lubricant, then drill and use the extractor. The shock/impact almost always loosens the bolt enough to remove with very little torque. Big problem is, there's usually not enough room to do that.
Despite the video is a bit old, I really appreciate the suggestions that you give. Not sure about the copper grease, I was told that's fine between steel-steel. But it can give a galvanic corrosion when used between steel and aluminium. Thanks for the tips!
Isn't it wonderful when everything is sitting on a bench! LOL! I had to do this BLIND under a 1954 Olsmobile with a broken bolt in the flywheel housing that supported a rear motor (transmission) mount! I was quite successful!
Thank you very much for this video. Many years ago, I was THE machinist in a Ford truck dealership and I did many things there including removing bolts that had been broken off in deep holes. The thing I am most impressed about in your methods is the way you made guides to center the drill bit on the broken bolts. The thing I want to say is that I did experiments on aluminum getting broken bolts out. It is a misconception that a cutting torch can damage aluminum castings. I made a fixture for a machine that one could bolt a valve body on to the fixture and the machine would exercise the valve body just like it was in a real transmission. To make these fixtures, we had to cut up an old worn out transmission case where the hoses from the machine could be married to the valve body via the fixture we made. I sawed the first case with a metal saw and that was slow. We tested cutting the case with a cutter we put on our milling machine still not real good. I spoke to a welder about the problem we had cutting the case up. He said bring me one of the cases and I will cut it for you in no time. He turned up his welder to very hot and used a carbon rod. He cut the case in no time using that method. I asked him if we could use a cutting torch to do the job and he said no. I called nonsense on him for what he said and he allowed me to try. I did and I was not able to cut anything on that aluminum case with the torch. The reason for it is that aluminum is a good conductor of heat and will dissipate the heat faster than the torch can heat it. Also, the larger the hunk of aluminum, the better. May not work on a small piece. I know the method works as I have depended it for years. I showed my son and he has used it being a mechanic who had broken off bolts before...etc. I urge you to try this method a few times on something that is no good to build your confidence and skill before using it on something important.
This is one of those, "Where have to been all my life!?!?!" Moments. Thank you Thank you! I have always struggled when this happened. Going to make a full set of common sizes tomorrow. Aaaaand then I'll probably never have another broken bolt again.
These bolts must have been broken by being over torqued. The threads are too clean. Most snapped bolts are from corrosion and put up a much tougher fight than these
Additional tipp: You can use a Dremel in order to grind the initial hole into the bolt (in case there isn’t enough thread to lower the guide into, for instance). With the Dremel, it is very easy to control that you won’t cut into the threads of the casing.
I never use them. Ive been removing broken bolts for many years by drilling the correct size drill & hammering in torx bits. Ive found paticularly on small bolts the tapered extractors can expand the bolt & make it even tighter.
@@heybird5660 That's a very good idea. I can see how the impacts from driving the torx bits into the broken bolts serve to help break the bolt free to turn easily.
I wish I had seen this years ago removing steel bolts from aluminum cross members on Snowmobile rails. It was almost guaranteed the bolts would snap off trying to remove them. I usually went to the snowmobile bone yard and picked up another Aluminum cross shaft. The ones that held a bearing or bushing and an idler wheel would certainly break because you couldn't heat it with a torch. Usually the threads would strip out if the bolt did come out so it was an impossible job. I used tons of antiseize when reassembling the frame rails.Good video. I no longer do snowmobile repair.
On a broken bolt recessed in the hole I use moderate heat, a 50-50 mix of ATF(trans fluid)& acetone to lubricate the bolt. Use a transfer punch to give you a dead center starting point for your left handed drill bit. Gradually increase the size of the bit making sure you are staying clear of the threads. This method hasn't let me down yet.
The bolt is a great idea, key is keeping your hole centered, TY for that tip. Try turning the extractor counter-clockwise while tapping on it with a hammer seems to give it a better bite. Been a machinist removing broken bolts on aircraft for over 30 years. Glad i stumbled on this video!!!
Douglas Burnside well i will tell you my story... I was tightening screw on clutch hub on pressure plate and, unknowingly i overtightened it, at on point it was increasing effort then after, the torque was constant for on rotation, and then weakens suddenly, eneded up breaking the head of the bolt
I just found a severely cross-threaded bolt in my bell housing holding the starter. Stripped the head of the bolt, then it snapped using an extractor of sorts so now I'm left with what's left. Not sure any of these techniques are going to help me in my scenario unfortunately but good stuff to keep in my back pocket so to speak.
Great video. I've been removing broken boys for many years but never thought to make a centering device like you have. I'm going to make a set for all of my workers starting tomorrow. Thank you again.
I’m off to do some jobs at a rental property today, I can’t think of anything worse to be honest 😉 I hope everyone has a better Sunday than me! Please like, share and comment if you can as it really helps 😊
It will be a lot better when the carpets have been professionally cleaned to get rid of the smell of cat urine. I'm going to film how to fit a floating shelf to a stud partition wall today, as I can easily repair the wall before painting it. Yesterday I replaced a couple of lamps in the bathroom downlighters. Thanks for the comment
Have had to do this for an engine oil sump nut that got rounded off, drilling in to the oil upside down is a challenge. The anti seazing paste is a good tip, especially for car wheel nuts as they often jam too tight to remove for a roadside repair, good day!
Thanks for the video. Have you ever made your own penetrating fluid?? ChrisFix put me on the Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone mix...works a treat!
So you forgot your tap wrench, been there done that, lol. Stick the screw extractor in your cordless drill, much less futzing around than with the shifter (sorry that's Aussie slang, adjustable spanner). The pre-drilled bolts as a guide is genius. I'm a machinist by trade and I have never seen that. 30 years experience and I can still learn new things.
Something you should remember, (1)on assembly use a lube on the threads ( on aluminium don't use copperslip, as it can cause corrosion) (2) use a torque wrench.
This was my only criticism also. Some time ago a friend bought a recon outboard motor. Within a couple of months there were several pinhole leaks in the leg. when he pulled it apart, it was riddled with electrolysis corrosion and he found it had been assembled using Coppaslip.
Snap on makes 3/8 drive sockets that snap on to thread taps so you can use a racket
Thanks for the comment
Joel you have a part number on those?
Joel Seim is it possible to change that part of the engine that he's working on? n can u tell me what part of the engine is called , mines cracked where the bolt is supposed to go in so now every new bolt keeps breaking in that part n the belt comes off
Irwin makes them also....for a fraction of the cost of snap-off im sure.
Brian B Lisle LI70500 Tap Socket Set
Trust me. The total satisfaction when the end of a broken bolt is finally in your hand really is one of life's pleasures.
Absolutely.
Thanks for the comment
The anger/ fear/ frustration that I experience the moment I realize I have broken a bolt off below the threads. Trust me, it really stinks.
@MAD GRUMPYMAN A lot of the time it is because some 300 lbs gorilla who over torqued the bolt to the point of failure. I know a LOT of manufacturers cheap out, namely Vehicle manufacturers on exhaust bolts. For $10 more they could use stainless bolts and then no mech would ever have a problem removing them. But the OEMs are more interested in selling you on the colour changing interior lights and jimmy jims and hoohas than building a decent vehicle.
I hope to reach this orgasmic experience
Indeed!!
Usually when I snap off a bolt, it's because it's hopelessly corroded (that's why it wouldn't come out). Step one, drill a hole in the bolt. Step two, snap your drill bit off in the hole. Step 3, swear....a lot.
Or snap off the extractor...
That's the method I use too! Must have gone to the same school or something.
👍
Or just buy a new one , which is a piece of garbage 😂😂😂
Just tried this method-and it worked! I now have a hardened broken drill bit tip in the center of a frozen, broken bolt..
Over 20 years pulling wrenches and I've never thought to drill out a bolt and use as a guide.
Great tips. Totally worth watching.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for his tip. Very good idea if there are enough threads.
Me too! 🤔
I concur.
Such a great tip to make a “hole centering tool”!,
Drilling a bolt and using this to guide a drill bit into the center of a sheared bolt just saved my company tons of money and machine down time on an industrial machine. Also, it made me look like a resourceful, smart engineer.
Thank you!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
You would look like a smarter engineer if you bought a "vented screw" which already has a hole in the middle. That will save a lot more time and money from labor of trying to get it dead centered.
You are smart because you bothered to expand your knowledge and learn from others .
@@ahndeuxgotta love it when people elaborate on their answer and actually give the names
yeah it a superb idea!
What I usually do is just pretend I never started working on it and go drink a beer.
I call that a think drink. When I have to think harder I have a couple
What I did yesterday lol
I think I'll do the same
Yea I tried not following your recommendation of go drink a beer, and I broke the drill bit inside of the broken bolt . Now Im following your direction and Im repeating the beers until I forget it ever happened. Problem fixed
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Very informative! Thanks for not playing annoying filler music in the background!
I sometimes add background music to videos, but I'll try not to in future
Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
@@ultimatehandyman THANK YOU!
YES! Why oh why do TH-cam creators think they must have background music?
Thanks for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music while you're talking. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video. I usually click away.
Thanks for sharing. I never thought to drill a bolt as a starter. CLEVER!
I love the centring jig. A broken bolt is enough to make you cry. You instantly get that sinking feeling when you know the bolt just broke, however the feeling of joy when you're holding the broken little bastard in your hand once you've removed it is priceless.
Knowing you’ve won is the best feeling
That hasn't happened not once in my lifetime. Just a huge mess and two cobalt drill bits broken in the bolt for eternity
Worded perfectly! Clapping sound
I broke a head stud in a bored and stroked 5.3l last week. 3.5" down in a hole. Crazy how tough it is seeing how easily it broke. 5 days later and I've only made it a quarter the way thru. Went thru probably 9 bits. Got the hole off centered some. They don't make left had bits that long. Studs don't even have torque to hold them in, you torque the opposite side. But the bastard won't spin. I got a extractor stuck in it, gotta weld a nut on to spin it. Praying that finally works. Needless to say I should've spent the $400 on ARP studs instead of $140 Speedmaster. Don't ever trust them or their torque specs. I'll seriously probably cry manly tears of joy if I can get it out. Otherwise the entire engine comes out and goes to the machine shop. Would be a good time to upgrade to 1/2" studs even tho that wouldn't be needed for 900hp
@@turbocateyeS475 7
I've spent 40 some years having to remove broken bolts out of situations like these. The idea of drilling out a bolt to use as a guide is an excellent idea. The idea of a hinge sighting drill is new to me, also. Great ideas!!
Thanks Terry 👍
I helps the case if you have a lathe to drill the hole in the bolt in the first place
@@MolloRelaxI thought everybody had a few metal lathes laying around
@@ultimatehandyman Does anyone actually sell premade bolts with center holes already drilled?
@@NobleEndeavours123 Search 'vented screws'. They are not a common fastener, so may be difficult to source depending on your location.
You’re saving lives mate, I worked in the UK for 13 years, you’ve helped me lots of times then, I moved home now, yore helping me here! Many thanks and all the best!
Good to hear!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Absolutely genius. I'm 42yo and never heard about or seen a hinge/ self centering drill bit. I've been fighting broken bolts for decades. This blows my mind and I'm ordering some now. I've got bolt extractors and left handed bits, but always have an issue drilling through the center of a broken bolt. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
but who's got a hinge drill bit ive never heard of it but used to operate a big drill press machine, biggest drill bit was 54mm
@@351clevelandmodifiedmotor4 Also called a Vix bit. Traditionally used in woodworking to insure a drilled hole is centered in the hole already bored in a hinge. That way when the screw is fastened the hinge doesn't walk to one side or the other sending the door out of alignment. I would imagine thats why it's also known as a hinge drill, though I have never heard it called that. I have never considered a vix bit for this purpose and I have tons of them. Genius!
I have removed hundreds of broken bolts, but I have never seen your idea of drilling a hole in a bolt for a guide. I guess your never too old to learn a new trick. Thanks for your time.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Listening to this guy talk about tools/mechanic work is like a bed time story for me.... so easy to listen to... and so skilled!
I often listen to my own videos when I can't get to sleep 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is one of the best videos I have seen about removing broken bolts for DIY person. I "had" a broken bolts in my 2008 Chevy Cobalt automatic transmission pan. Thank you.
Wow, thanks!
I was taught by my old foreman and mentor, he said that “the harder the material is, the slower you go “ that covers drilling, tapping, lathe and milling work. Like the channel but love AEG tools more! Have a great 2020!
Machining is more of an art than a science.. Plus you have to have a fetish for bits... All kinds of bits.. Standard bits, end mills, taps/dies, ferrous oxide, cobalt steel, high carbon steel, etc.. Bits are your friends!! hehe
Drilling out some bolts for different sized threads was a GREAT idea. I've drilled out wooden dowels to do the same basic thing, but your bolt idea is much more accurate and dependable! A quality set of bolt extractors adds to the enjoyment of having that lodged bolt finally land in your hand.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
What a great video. Now I know how to use a stud extractor etc. Drilling a cap head bolt to use as a guide is such a great idea! Thanks for taking the time to show this type of stuff here on TH-cam - much appreciated. Best Regards SR.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
So glad I found your socket head bolt jig technique. I had a broken recessed manifold bolt on my 5.7 hemi engine in a tight space that I was able to utilize your technique to extract it. Thank god because I couldn't find a local auto machine shop to do this job so I was at a real loss until I saw your video. I only had 5" of space to work with and there was no way I could get a hammer on a punch to mark center on this recessed bolt. The only real modification I had to do was to cut the drill bit shaft back about an inch so my right-angle drill attachment with the shortened drill bit could be inserted into the socket head jig. Thank you
You have no idea how good it is to read your comment. Often people give me grief, with comments such as-
"try that in a engine bay"
"it's easy on the bench"
"try it when the bolts are rusty" etc.
You have made my day by using the bolt guide and adapting your own drill bit to shorten it 😉
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman All those haters just don't understand that these are just samples for techniques to try.
Not every broken bolt can be extracted, using this method. Not everything is going to be perfect.
People searching for a "one fix fix all" is living in a pipe dream.
Thanks for showing off the techniques that you utilize to attempt bolt extractions.
@@williamvaughn2938 Try getting a camera(to film the demo) down in those tight spaces, while you are trying to drill the hole, & extract a bolt.
A highly-skilled and experienced teacher - patient, professional and responsive to Q's. I do like his technique of repeating crucial elements, like being careful to not drill through the screw into the aluminum pan! What a thrill to see the broken bolt extracted. Almost 8mil views - I'm not surprised - a tribute.
Thanks for the comment 👍
yes interesting stuff, patickally the hinge drill :-) mind you bolts have hex heads screws don't... :-|
Who gave a cheer and a clap each time a bolt was extracted?
10 million people are smarter now
@@alan-sk7ky I have encountered hundreds of hex head screws. And a few Phillips, Pozidriv, Torx, square and slotted head bolts.
Screw: threads into a threaded hole.
Bolt: Passes through both parts, has a nut on the other side.
I'm glad I stumbled over this video. In the process of my first engine swap project and I've been teaching myself everything. I noticed a few bolts snapped from the exhaust manifold and I've been quietly panicking over them. This video probably saved my knuckles, cash and headaches easily.
I already posted this, but as you may not see it ...
_I worked a diesel turbocharger bench (Cats)(mid-1970s). Many frozen and subsequentialy busted bolts on the exhaust side._
_Center punch the bolt, drill it, use a 'pick' to pull the remains from the threads. If the threads were damaged, drill the hole to a proper size, tap it and insert a heli-coil ... good as new and didn't take very long._
Exhaust bolts can be extra tough because of they've been heated so many times
Always use a torch on tight nuts to prevent breaking a stud.
"Quietly panicking." Very well put.
The name of the game is slow and easy don't get frustrated walk away first get the drill centered don't allow it to walk multiple heat and spray cycles heat pulls in oil especially if you can drill all the way thru bolt so oil gets to the backside of the bolt. If you have some of the bolt sticking above surface before you tear it up with vise grips put a nut on it and weld together heat From welder will help. Once you get it to break loose take time and work it back and forth. As you are removing it and it starts to tighten up screw it back in a little movement is better than none once again take your time if it's loose keep spraying it oil will work it's way around when loose
Nicely done. I particularly like the patience you showed when having extraction issues. Thanks.
Thanks for watching 👍
Your hollow drill guide sleeve made from an intact bolt in sheer genius. Well done!
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman I learned some of this owning Hondas in the 1960s, w/ straight blade screws-- no phillips. thanx.
Happy Customer . Muy bueno, práctico...
I dunno. 99.9% of the broken bolts I ever encounter are right at the surface of the hole and you could never use one of those drilling fixtures.
Of the 99.9% the majority are completely corroded or jammed in the threads and even if you make a nice hole in the center an easy- out still won’t turn it.
I usually have to get a small hole as close as possible to center and then progress up in size till I’m right at the edge of the thread and then try to use a tap to clear out the remaining thread of the bolt without tearing up the base thread.
You are very lucky, it looks like all yours came out with easy- out extractor
If not already done you should patent those and have them produced for sale. I'd buy them
Wow, really well done. Using the hinge bit is genius, and the centering bolts another really smart idea. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman What if the bolt is very narrow (small diameter)? How do you get it out?
I need a hinge bit holder
You are very skilled at your trade. My only comment is to always blow ALL debris out of the hole before using the extractor. Grains of sand or bolt particles in the aluminum threads can destroy the threads during extraction.
BeerBBQMan your right
Or at worst your shavings get pushed into the threads and muck up the extraction process
I tried to tell him.....
Nah tipp them out cause you blow them they can get in your eyes and other places
One of the best videos on this topic on TH-cam hands down. Bravo, my friend.
Wow, thanks! 👍
Some great ideas there. Have to say as a professional automotive mechanic I haven't seen to many deep broken bolts or studs. Most all are flush with surface or smidge below.
One site, most are flush or just proud of the surface, but on a couple of machines we get them recessed in the hole, which made me think of ways of getting them out.
Thanks for the comment 👍
**TOO.
There is a differance between a professional mechanic and a handy man. Salute. Thank you for your service sir.
The number of your likes speaks volumes.
something that everyone seems to forget to mention about using left hand drill bits to extract a broken bolt is the importance of drilling in short burst with steady pressure, it's the constant stopping that allows the bit to dig in and begin spinning the broken bolt, also if the item is important enough the best easy out ever is a back ground tap, if easy outs have failed, as a last resort you take an appropriate size tap and put a reverse grind on the tip so it grabs spinning backwards, you may waste a tap but chances are you will save the part, this trick pulled me out of one of my most desperate situations ......
👍
Wondering will the extractor catch better on the threads of the drilled hole if you didn’t drill it in reverse ?
This video helped me to successfully remove six broken bolts on a John Deer Lawn Tractor Spindle. I always use the anti-sieze compound when replacing Spindles, and this saves a whole lot of manual labor. Thank you for this very informative and detailed video.
Brilliant!
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great tips! I had never used a drilled out bolt to center the hole. I have done hundreds of snapped off bolts before. A tip back atcha! Use your wrench to turn the extractor in while tapping on it to get a better bite. It provides an impact driver like effect, and, I believe, in many of my extraction experiences, made the difference between a successful extraction, and snapping off the extractor.
A two handled tap wrench balances lateral forces to apply only torque to the extractor. This reduces risk of breakage of the extractor.
This is such a brilliant solution, you should market these so people don't have to make their own. BTW: I use a left-handed drill bit when extracting broken bolts, it often unwinds it without the need for an easy out.
I had this idea in the 60s, everyone thought I was nuts, they would end up breaking the extractor off in the bolt
one of the bolts he removed he did with the left hand drill bit.
What is a left-handed drill bit? What brand is strongest for 9.8 Hex headed sheered bolt?
As a guy who has dealt with his share of broken bolts. You made the removals look easy.
Definitely like your drill bit guides👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
I've been a fitter for 40 years and never thought of using any of these three simple ideas! Awesome, thanks.
Thank you for the comment 👍
What bugs me is how fragile the extractors tend to be. I've snapped off enough of them to usually make this a nerve-wracking job. Drilling a bolt as drill guide is a great tip - thanks a lot for that one!
That's the problem - the screw extractors are so easy to break off inside the broken bolt.
Then you have a huge problem.
You can always drill them out- th-cam.com/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/w-d-xo.html&t
@@ultimatehandyman -
thanks I watched that video on how to drill out a tap - very well done.
You are not the only one to suffer a "snap off". I avoid them now as usually causing more trouble then they are worth.
@@ultimatehandyman Cheers, mate!
The absolute worst is when you snap the extractor off in the broken bolt. 😭
Been there and got the Tee shirt 😂
At least you can drill it out- th-cam.com/video/7JCfEMrCjhc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
I was wondering the same thing. When either the extractor or the drill bit brakes off in the bolt. I've actually have had that happen to me.
Or the drill bit! Ughhh broken bolts/ stripped out threads are the worst!
Done it lol. Ended up dissembling the casing of the thing I was working on and sent it to a welder. He welded some shit onto the exposed tap and turned both the extractor and the tap out
Luckily these are all brittle compared to the bolt and you can hit them with a punch and shatter them
Much appreciated. One more minor addition is to use a vacuum cleaner after drilling to ensure unwanted swarf is removed, further reducing the chance of thread damage.
👍
Nice! Thanks for those tips. Nothing quite like the panic that sets in when you break one off!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Your samples came out so easily with easy-outs. It reminds me of my most amazing case of a broken water pump bolt on a Toyota. The broken bit was a the bottom of an inch+ of clearance hole down to threads deep in the cast iron engine block. Drilling a hole in the broken bolt with a long bit was easy enough - this was back when Japanese bolts were notoriously soft. To this day I still am totally amazed that I got away with a brazed extension (old valve stem) on an easy-out to get the bite deep enough. The broken part came out as easily as the samples in the video . Wow, did that really work?!
I do like your tip with the alignment hole through a bolt. Too bad my cases are always near flush so no threads to engage. I tend to end up with grinding the end flat, if possible, and very carefully centerpunching for the drill, starting small and working larger, depending how well centered. My cases are typically locked in place with corrosion and easy-out has low chance of success. The best helper has been to head the part to dull-red with torch, which I suspect expands the bolt into the rust and creates a little clearance when the bolt cools.
Heat seems to work when nothing else does. Heating then shock cooling sure helps to loosen rust frozen bolts, but you still need liquid wrench and torque!
👍
,I have been using small allen keys and grind the end into a 3 point,removed lots in my turbocharger shop.
Those guide bolts you made are absolutely brilliant.Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment, Tony ;-)
You can buy bolts with holes already in them.
I think we all thought 'need some of those' on seeing the drill guides...
th-cam.com/video/6mZj0J6CNYA/w-d-xo.html
Or Search for vent bolts and they should show up.
Ed LLB EeeeeeBay
one of the MOST frustrating things in any workshop is a broken bolt. One of the MOST satisfying feelings is when you feel the broken bolt start to turn and you perform successful removal.
Absolutely 👍
Today this video taught me:
1) Center-drilled bolt to serve as a drill guide;
2) Use of a door-hinge guide fitted with left-hand drill bit;
3) "Swarf" is the name for the chips of debris that result from drilling/machining/etc.
👍
This is the best how-to presentation I have ever seen on TH-cam! Very time-efficient & factually accurate. And the video was rock solid. No left-handed jerky camera work here. Thanks for the vid!
You are welcome, Bob
Thanks for the comment 👍
Agreed!,
Nice! Remember to watch for metal shavings getting wedged in threads. Compressed air will blow them out.
Thanks for the comment 👍
allways blow out every bolt hole before replacing bolts more so if its rusty like a manifold
As a few people have asked for the video translating, I have now had subtitles added to the video in French, Russian, Spanish and Italian. Thanks to the TH-cam user that translated the video title, description and added subtitles to the video in Dutch, I'm afraid I do not know who you are, but it really is appreciated 😉
O
12:01 Oddly satisfying. :)
Ji
Any chance you could add Murican?
@@kradius2169 LOL ;-)
Well done. Patience without throwing tools and swearing. I enjoyed that. Thank you. Chris
Thanks Chris 👍
I have never heard anyone pronounced the letter T so powerfully has this guy
In the US, we say "dih-an" (didn't) and "stray-aned" (straightened). I actually prefer his correct pronunciation... It annoys the hell out of me when people leave out the second T (and other consonants) in many of our words...
Because he is from Lancashire and we speak proper
I just speak like 99% of other people in this area. It was only when I was 15 and went down South that I realised I had an accent, as people kept asking me if I came from Yorkshire 😂
Bloody scary 😅🤪
Preston? Or within a handful of miles.
As an old retired mechanic I have used a torx head bit drove into the drilled hole instead of the screw extractor. It works very well.
I've got to remove some broken exhaust manifold bolts today, and plan on using this method. Any tips or tricks to keep in mind?
I've found that using a ratchet on the back of the screw extractors and applying pressure while twisting in most situations does a better job of biting into the bolts than using a hammer. Plus, less worry of a hitting wrong and bouncing off the threads. The drilled bolts for centering drillbits is nothing short of pure genius.
Thank You!
The drilled bolts are pure genius for sure. I wish we could buy a set in both metric and SAE. It would sure save time, instead of making my own.
@@ainsleyencinas21 Seems like that would be an opportunity for someone to market them.
Try using a spline type of bolt extractor set instead of the not-so-easy-out. You'll never go back.
@@WarpFactor999 Where do I get it?
Perfect tip for the dril bit guide! Also the left hand dril bit! Thanks! In my days I also 'welded' broken bolt or thread ends out. You can only not do it with very deep broken bolts. Lay done a similar size nut and weld it from inside out the broken bolt to the inside nut. Due to the heat, the broken bolt wil expand and crush any rust . Let it cool down totally and slowly turn it out. Most of the time it worked for me! Also a penetrant oil, q20,w40 works great but spray it days before and repeat it every day so it can do its work. In combination with tapping on it works also mostly. Good luck with your work and program!
13m views in only 3 years shows how interesting & useful this video is!
Absolutely 👍
The process works if the bolts are in good shape like yours(clean threads). I've worked on many bolts with corroded threads that no left hand drill bit or extractor would work. Instead of making those centering bolts, you can use a small bushing from the hardware store. Choose one that fits inside the opening.
Thanks for the comment
I do believe that there are some bolts that can not be removed. I recently replaced two brake wheel cylinders with bleeder screws broken off. To get some practice with such things I went to work on the old ones in a vice on the bench. A number of heat/cool cycles left hand drill/extractor, PB Blaster; tossed them out with the screws still stuck.
If the bolt is at least 8 mm 5/16" the best way to get them out is to weld on them and build them up out of the hole and the weld a nut on it and vola it in most cases can be screwed out. Just watch out you must use a chromium weld rod not a usual welding rod
YEAP!! but why a chromium ( stainless steel?) rod,please?
The character of the rod is that it is very accurate it does not fly to the side and the flux more or less isolate the side of the hole for any splatter and last but not least it is normally much stronger than normal rutil rod
Thanks for speeding up the slow parts. I didn’t know about left handed drill bits,,
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
They are better then extractors in most cases..
Thank You so much for this tutorial, i had a broken oil level Bolt on a Honda engine, i bought a kit of reverse drill bit and screw renovers, just like your and in 20 minutes i manged to remove the 6mm broken bolt without ruining the thread. Top marks!!!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
A truly useful series of tips to remove everyone's nightmare, a broken stud.
Thanks, Tony ;-)
Thank you...your videos are always simple, to the point and very informative. Thanks very much for sharing!
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
As a Industrial maintenance mechanic w/over 20 yrs. experience can say I am found of left hand drill bits, and the use of guides like shown in this video is a must, as they never shear off cleanly it seems, and often when you get them drilled a bit, they will loosen and you can take a pin punch, or even a screwdriver jammed somewhat into the hole and back them out. The 'hinge-guide-driller' was a great idea..must admit hadn't thought about that one..but the bolts with holes made in a lathe, is something we used for years.
Thanks for the comment
once you drill right through the bolt it comes out easier, I think it reduces the strength and it cant apply the same gripping force. Plenty of penetrating oil and one turn out quarter back as if you are tapping a thread helps prevent breaking it in the first place.Oh and really impressive video
on broken bolts that arent flat I always start the drill 90 degres from the spot I want the drill to start in. what I mean is that someone will inevitably run over and check to make sure I know what I am doing, cause it looks like I am drilling sideways into the part. when the drill gets its start, move(while the drill is turning) to your correct angle and drill into the center of the bolt. you make a start where you want it to be, then adjust angle and it should be right in the middle.
got this trick from an old machinist school book. originaly it was a way to get a hole started in precisely the right place and prevent 'walking' that also involved making punch marks just so to nudge the bit over to where you want it and I modified that. old books are better than the internet, you dont need electricity to use them.... also there was this thing called "proof reading" back in the day when printing presses were set type...
niceguy217 I have used a small awl and just tapped it out
Hollow bolts. Yep, definitely Industrial Maintenance Mechanic tools. Not what a "handyman" would usually be able to fabricate. Not unless his steam punk grandpa handed him down his old lathe.
Like a lot of other people commenting I'm 71 yrs old and this is the first time I've seen this drilled out bolt guide trick , pretty slick , great job .
Great to hear!
This is the first time I have EVER seen an "Eze-out" type screw extractor used successfully.
All the bolts he removed were in good condition. No real rusty ones tho!!
👍
Used the ez outs hard outs left drill bits with very good results.
Solid video mate.
In my time in an Aero engine workshop I learned a few techniques to remove broken studs and bolts and I've never seen the cap head bolt guides used. Nice work. Helicoil repairs was another useful skill too.
I've said it plenty of times, the person that invented screw extractors is an absolute genius.
Nothing beats that feeling of removing a broken bolt cleanly.
Absolutely 👍
Great video@@ultimatehandyman
That's really clever, thanks for sharing! Over my 40 yrs. or so of working on mechanical things I've always dreaded broken off bolts. Badly corroded ones are the worse and if you don't have your own machine shop equipment it's really challenging.
I had a guy with a Cummins in a Dodge with broken exhaust manifold bolts. I gave him a quote on exhaust manifold R&R then told him that the bolts will be T&M.
Almost all of the broken bolts came out easily. Like put the left hand drill bit in there and turn it right out easy. One of them I actually had to tap in an easy-out, but it took next to nothing to break it loose. That was a good day.
Amazing. I am the guy that gets it out but damages the threads. Now I know better thanks to you!! Thx
No problem 👍
Dude. Those bolts with centers drilled out is brilliant. Im gonna get my Local Machine shop to to make me some of those.
They should easily make you a set ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Also worth googling "hollow bolt". There's already-made ones out there, though mostly in metric it seems. Might be cheaper (and quicker?) than having a machine shop make them.
@@ultimatehandyman what size of mm drillbit should you use in an m8 m10 and m12?
@@RK-nl1hn M8 = 4mm | M10 = 6mm | M12 = 8mm 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks man!
This video saved me from a very expensive visit to a mechanic. Great logical advice. Thank you for a common sense instructional video.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent real world examples and demonstrations. Very useful indeed. Thank you!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Look, I know this is a 2 year old post. But I feel I have to share this. 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L. Over torqued a head bolt and about 1 1/4 inches of thread broke off in the block. BY FAR...the easiest extraction I've ever done simply by using your method here. Left handed drill bit took it all the way out. Thanks, man!!! You just saved this engine! After 6 months of trying, I was about to junk it. But all it took was this. Thanks again! 👍
Brilliant 👍
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
I love seeing different techniques to help when you screw up so thanks for the upload.
Wow. Beautiful, thank you for the simplicity of the demonstration
Thank you! Cheers!
Heat rusty bolts before they snap, also cooling quickly with the penetrating oil will cause a separation between bolt and job. The idea is to spray wd on the bolt itself so it cools and shrinks within the job, it also burns out the rust
WD sucks as penetrant . Just mix 50/50 acetone and auto tranny oil. Dirt cheap works as well as anything else out there
In my experience,despite all the rival claims,a sprinkle of holy water is just as effective.
Bruce Askin j
@@drizler liquid wrench's penetrating spray outperformed the ATF/acetone mix. Project farm tested it out.
David Worsley - Amen to that.
82 year old man and you just taught me alot, Thank you
I like the drill guides.
You can even use hydraulic fittings they already have the centres bored out.
There different threads
when i have this problem its usually in an engine IN the car.
If it's in aluminum and you can't get a drill to it, AVE has a video on youtube where you use a chemical to erode the bolt over a couple of days. The chemical doesn't affect the aluminum at all and eats away the steel bolt. You can accelerate it using a 40 watt lightbulb by warming the chemical. Search youtube, it will tell you what the chemical is.
@@muskokamike127 If this bolt has a vertical orientation, how does one get the rest of the residue out, once it's been corroded?
@@Ronnock These things require patience that I do not have;
For you question you just jack with it until you get it out keeping down-payment for new car on deposit account at retail bank ▬ >>>> Otherwise be ready to get exercise by walking!
18 degrees, blowing, laying on cardboard and I need to go to work tomorrow.
Yes, or lying on your back trying to get a few sheered studs out of a tractor oil pan.
that was the best video i have ever seen how to remove broken bolts. description was perfect and understanding as well..keep up the good work that was a great video
Thanks for the comment 👍
The day you stop learning is the day you stop living
I used your tip for using those hinge centering drill bits. It worked perfectly!! Broken stud came out easier than I thought. Thanks man!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
You need to make and sell the socket head bolt thing. I know I would buy a set in Metric and SAE..
Agreed. Although you could replicate it pretty easily simply by placing an appropriately sized piece of pipe/tubing over your drill bit.
I'd pay for a set of thread guides like you made.
You could buy a set of drill bushes. They will do the same job.
Great idea using self-centring hinge drills! I'll be adding some to my shopping list. Like the drilled bolts too!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. I enjoyed watching being I was a Diesel mechanic for 27 years. The tools you used to center the drill bit was genius. Sir you have talent. Nice work.
Cool, thanks 👍
Those guides are an excellent idea. I've never seen those before. I'm off to get some bolts and make some. I'll have to use a drill press though. 👍
It should be easy enough on the drill press. I was going to do that, but it was much easier on the lathe.
Thanks for the comment
Ditto
Same. Living where I do broken bolts are all too common. These are all the techniques I would use. I hadn't seen the hinge tool before though.
Wouldn't actually be that hard to drill some through holes in various bolts, which I think you were suggesting Big Ben, and use those as guides too.
Oh... And I unpause the video and that's exactly what he did, hahaha!
@glyn hodges really great advice
The joys of bolt extractions. As much of a pain it is to do, it sure is satisfying when successful.
Absolutely!
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The jiys of bolt extractions
N
good tips! i like the self centering drill and bolt pilot.
ive never had anything come out that easily however. where i live, in the "rust belt" of the us, nearly everythibg is pretty well rusted and siezed up. we are pretty experiemced with removing broken bolts. Absolutely my #1 suggestion is stack the deck in your favor to avoid getting in this situation in the first place. soak the bolt in penetrating oil, sometimes days if you have to, use allot of heat if you can, and use impact tools. bolt head rounding is also a verry common problem here, and i have grown to love the impact rated spiral toothed sockets for extracting rounded bolt heads.
95% of the time the bolt breaks flush with the surface of the part so unfortionatly those great techniques of center drilling wouldnt work, but i find that using a center punch i can usually get a decently centered hole.
however i dont think ive ever gotten one of those screw extractors to actually work, if you think about it the bolt has usually broken by putting full torque on the bolt head, so the idea that a much smaller screw extractor will get it out when full torque on the bolt head didnt do it is a bit dubious.
I will usually try a screw extractor on the off chance that it works and dosent itself break in the hole, and more often than not i just end up having to drill the hole out and tap it larger or helichoil it
shonuffisthemaster j
shonuff - -Yup been there. Also drill a small hole to get oil onto the stuck threads. Also, grind a straight slot for a screwdriver.
Good post. This is a great video but in the real world I never have stuck bolts that come out as clean as his did and the screw extractors rarely work on a rusted or corroded bolts. Not to mention the moron that cross threaded it in the first place. Tap and die set after I drill the bolt are usually what I have to do.
The reason a bolt extractor sometimes works when the bolt has been broken off at the hex is simply because, with the fastener clamping two parts together, the bolt is in tension - it's STRETCHED! Think about it; often you can't budge a screw but after cutting off the head and removing the part it's securing, you put a Vise Grip on what's left an it turns right out. Not all the time, but often.
I always, unless there's no room for me to, strike the bolt with a non pointed punch and hammer or an air hammer w/punch to break the corrosion's bond and slightly deform the threads leaving a bit of wiggle room before applying heat and wax or other lubricant, then drill and use the extractor. The shock/impact almost always loosens the bolt enough to remove with very little torque. Big problem is, there's usually not enough room to do that.
79 yrs old and was just taught a new trick thank you sir you are def a mechanic
Thanks for the comment 👍
Despite the video is a bit old, I really appreciate the suggestions that you give.
Not sure about the copper grease, I was told that's fine between steel-steel.
But it can give a galvanic corrosion when used between steel and aluminium.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the comment 👍
There's 2 types of anti-seize. The copper type was designed for aluminum.
Isn't it wonderful when everything is sitting on a bench! LOL! I had to do this BLIND under a 1954 Olsmobile with a broken bolt in the flywheel housing that supported a rear motor (transmission) mount! I was quite successful!
nice one! did you have electric tools then or were they steam driven ;)
Thank you very much for this video. Many years ago, I was THE machinist in a Ford truck dealership and I did many things there including removing bolts that had been broken off in deep holes. The thing I am most impressed about in your methods is the way you made guides to center the drill bit on the broken bolts. The thing I want to say is that I did experiments on aluminum getting broken bolts out.
It is a misconception that a cutting torch can damage aluminum castings. I made a fixture for a machine that one could bolt a valve body on to the fixture and the machine would exercise the valve body just like it was in a real transmission. To make these fixtures, we had to cut up an old worn out transmission case where the hoses from the machine could be married to the valve body via the fixture we made. I sawed the first case with a metal saw and that was slow. We tested cutting the case with a cutter we put on our milling machine still not real good.
I spoke to a welder about the problem we had cutting the case up. He said bring me one of the cases and I will cut it for you in no time. He turned up his welder to very hot and used a carbon rod. He cut the case in no time using that method. I asked him if we could use a cutting torch to do the job and he said no. I called nonsense on him for what he said and he allowed me to try. I did and I was not able to cut anything on that aluminum case with the torch. The reason for it is that aluminum is a good conductor of heat and will dissipate the heat faster than the torch can heat it. Also, the larger the hunk of aluminum, the better. May not work on a small piece.
I know the method works as I have depended it for years. I showed my son and he has used it being a mechanic who had broken off bolts before...etc. I urge you to try this method a few times on something that is no good to build your confidence and skill before using it on something important.
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Plasma cutters work on Aluminum.
This and wiring aren’t jobs that I enjoy! Thanks brother does give me more confidence to not mess something up worse!
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This is one of those, "Where have to been all my life!?!?!" Moments. Thank you Thank you! I have always struggled when this happened. Going to make a full set of common sizes tomorrow.
Aaaaand then I'll probably never have another broken bolt again.
Thanks for the comment 👍🏼
If you never have another broken bolt because you made a set of guide bolts then I'd say they were well worth the effort.
I was thinking the same thing
These bolts must have been broken by being over torqued. The threads are too clean. Most snapped bolts are from corrosion and put up a much tougher fight than these
totally agree. These are coming out WAY too easy
If it’s snapped off at the end you can weld a nut onto it and use a money wrench to get it loose
Additional tipp: You can use a Dremel in order to grind the initial hole into the bolt (in case there isn’t enough thread to lower the guide into, for instance).
With the Dremel, it is very easy to control that you won’t cut into the threads of the casing.
I'd rather use a center punch and a centering drill bit. I am rubbish with free hand grinding.
@@HotelPapa100 Especially we old guys and Parkinson's sufferers whose hands shake!
Your probably correct but a shudder always runs down my spine when someone says just use a deemed…….
People who can actually get easy outs to work are magicians.
It just takes practice. I use them all the time.
I never use them. Ive been removing broken bolts for many years by drilling the correct size drill & hammering in torx bits. Ive found paticularly on small bolts the tapered extractors can expand the bolt & make it even tighter.
@@heybird5660 That's a very good idea. I can see how the impacts from driving the torx bits into the broken bolts serve to help break the bolt free to turn easily.
Takes skill. To be honest, if I have a welder available. I'd rather weld to it and extract it.
The only problem I ever have with easy outs is centering the drill as breaks are never straight and it likes to walk
Thank you! I've just successfully removed a broken bolt from my motorcycle after watching your video.
Excellent! 👍
I wish I had seen this years ago removing steel bolts from aluminum cross members on Snowmobile rails. It was almost guaranteed the bolts would snap off trying to remove them. I usually went to the snowmobile bone yard and picked up another Aluminum cross shaft. The ones that held a bearing or bushing and an idler wheel would certainly break because you couldn't heat it with a torch. Usually the threads would strip out if the bolt did come out so it was an impossible job. I used tons of antiseize when reassembling the frame rails.Good video. I no longer do snowmobile repair.
When I saw you struggling with the one stuck in the yellow lump I knew this was a no-nonsense video.
Thanks for the comment 👍
On a broken bolt recessed in the hole I use moderate heat, a 50-50 mix of ATF(trans fluid)& acetone to lubricate the bolt. Use a transfer punch to give you a dead center starting point for your left handed drill bit. Gradually increase the size of the bit making sure you are staying clear of the threads. This method hasn't let me down yet.
The bolt is a great idea, key is keeping your hole centered, TY for that tip. Try turning the extractor counter-clockwise while tapping on it with a hammer seems to give it a better bite. Been a machinist removing broken bolts on aircraft for over 30 years. Glad i stumbled on this video!!!
Thanks, Greg 👍
How did someone manage to break a steel bolt in an aluminum casting without stripping the aluminum threads?
I was thinking the Same thing
Douglas Burnside well i will tell you my story... I was tightening screw on clutch hub on pressure plate and, unknowingly i overtightened it, at on point it was increasing effort then after, the torque was constant for on rotation, and then weakens suddenly, eneded up breaking the head of the bolt
I just found a severely cross-threaded bolt in my bell housing holding the starter. Stripped the head of the bolt, then it snapped using an extractor of sorts so now I'm left with what's left. Not sure any of these techniques are going to help me in my scenario unfortunately but good stuff to keep in my back pocket so to speak.
It happens all the time... left handed drills are nice.
If u look at the Alluminum Part, u can see serveral damages and dents. I think it was Broken in a car Accident.
You saved my butt again, thanks!
A cheap set of left hand bits from harbour junk freight did the trick.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. I've been removing broken boys for many years but never thought to make a centering device like you have. I'm going to make a set for all of my workers starting tomorrow. Thank you again.
Glad to help
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I Think you're watching the video!
Sir , thank you so much for shearing your knowledge .
Watching from Sri Lanka .
You are welcome
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I’m off to do some jobs at a rental property today, I can’t think of anything worse to be honest 😉
I hope everyone has a better Sunday than me!
Please like, share and comment if you can as it really helps 😊
Can't be that bad? What jobs have you got lined up? Will some be recorded?
It will be a lot better when the carpets have been professionally cleaned to get rid of the smell of cat urine.
I'm going to film how to fit a floating shelf to a stud partition wall today, as I can easily repair the wall before painting it.
Yesterday I replaced a couple of lamps in the bathroom downlighters.
Thanks for the comment
Have had to do this for an engine oil sump nut that got rounded off, drilling in to the oil upside down is a challenge. The anti seazing paste is a good tip, especially for car wheel nuts as they often jam too tight to remove for a roadside repair, good day!
Thanks, Anti-seize compound is superb- I use it regularly at work.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the video. Have you ever made your own penetrating fluid?? ChrisFix put me on the Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone mix...works a treat!
So you forgot your tap wrench, been there done that, lol. Stick the screw extractor in your cordless drill, much less futzing around than with the shifter (sorry that's Aussie slang, adjustable spanner).
The pre-drilled bolts as a guide is genius. I'm a machinist by trade and I have never seen that. 30 years experience and I can still learn new things.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Something you should remember, (1)on assembly use a lube on the threads ( on aluminium don't use copperslip, as it can cause corrosion)
(2) use a torque wrench.
This was my only criticism also. Some time ago a friend bought a recon outboard motor. Within a couple of months there were several pinhole leaks in the leg. when he pulled it apart, it was riddled with electrolysis corrosion and he found it had been assembled using Coppaslip.