Upgrade the Ender 3 V2 PTFE Tube and Couplers in 5 Minutes or Less
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ค. 2024
- Today we upgrade the Creality Ender 3 V2 PTFE Tube and Couplers with the TH3D Upgrade Bundle. It takes 5 minutes or less and it's a great way to upgrade your new printer!
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0:00 Begin Video
0:14 Intro Music
0:23 Video Outline
1:32 Remove Coupler Clip
1:42 Loosen Old PTFE Coupler and Remove old PTFE Bowden Tube
1:47 Remove old PTFE Coupler
1:49 Install New TH3D PC4-M6 PTFE Bowden Coupler
2:01 Remove Hotend Housing
2:37 Heat Nozzle to 230c
2:51 Remove Old Hotend PTFE Bowden Coupler and Tubing
3:23 Measure and Cut New TH3D PTFE Tough Tube
4:45 Install New TH3D PC4-M10 PTFE Bowden Coupler
5:04 Install New TH3D PTFE Tough Tube
5:30 Secret Trick
6:15 Cool Down Hotend
6:21 Reinstall Hotend Housing
7:16 Summary - Upgrade Done!
7:57 Please Like, Subscribe and Hit that Bell!!!!!
8:13 End Video
Disclaimer: Some of these links go to one of my websites and some are affiliate links where I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase at no additional cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Ender 3 V2 Amazon: amzn.to/2OA9bug
Code: 07ZGQI2J to save some money!
Ender 3 V2 Amazon:amzn.to/3qRzLwb
Code: 07GZXYYD to save some money!
TH3D PTFE Upgrade Bundle: www.th3dstudio.com/product/es...
Capricorn PTFE Upgrade Kit Amazon: amzn.to/3iknb53
Ender 3 V2 on Amazon: amzn.to/2WmG2TG
Ender 3 V2 Directly from Creality: www.creality3dofficial.com/pr...
Ender 3 Pro on Amazon: amzn.to/2ZiBLCX
Ender 3 Pro Directly from Creality: www.creality3dofficial.com/pr...
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Thank you for the short and sweet tutorial, This has to be the best TH-cam channel for 3D Printer enthusiasts
I was so discouraged about this fix, now I’m super confident and finally ordered the parts 😂 thanks!
I just want to say this was a very easy to follow video. Didn't waste any time, gave me the relevant information and timestamps made it easy to go back when I needed. Replacement went great except for burning myself a bit despite you specifically saying to be careful
Thank you so much for this.
I actually used it to take my Bowden tube off so I could clear a blockage 👍
Awesome tip at 4:53 about leaving the coupler a turn from tight in order to get the tube shoved into the nozzle! I was desperate for a way to cut the bowden tube straight and did not have the cutter. I finally ended up using the wire cutter on my cat5e crimping tool... it really worked awesome.
Your videos are awesome you're the only person that covers the v2 Any future videos on replacing hotend cooling fan I have a broken blade I think I can change the wiring out on the board but not sure I'm new at this had my v2 for about 3 weeks
Another great vid 👍 keep em coming 👍
Cheers for the video. Made it so much easier having direction off your video 👍🏻
Love your videos! So thorough and easy to follow!
Great video and I definitely love your intro music 😁 I have an Ender 3 v2 as well first printer. I just wanted to say that you should only have to remove the long screw in the middle as the short one goes into the fan shroud. Just an FYI😉
great video and presentation! well done! thanks for sharing!
Great tip for the hot end, by tightening coupler after inserting PTFE tube.
Really helpfull! Good detail!
Awesome, extremely clear video!
Thanks! Awesome tutorial!
Thank you for the very helpful video, I watched it since I want to replace the extruder, the bowden tube and the hotend on my Ender 3 v2 this weekend. One question though: you said to make the extruder fitting tight before putting the bowden tube in and I would have assumed it should be better to first put the tube in the extruder fitting and then make it tight with the wrench? Same as for the hotend-side fitting? Or does the tube only gets caught by the teeth inside the fitting but not by tightening the fitting?
I only needed this to unclog some PLA while changing out spools, but this was very useful as a new Ender 3 V2 user! :D
I had the same issue and came for the same reason lol
Very very useful video. Thank you!!!
Thank you for this! I missed something, you have silicone tape on the PC4-M10 coupler?
Thanks!
Thank you Sir, Saved me :)
Thanks it really helped
You look like Tony Parker wow, also great video!
I just had to do this and I discovered that you don't need to remove both screws. Just remove the long screw and leave the short one alone.
@Khari Nehemiah Why do you spam this under every YT video?
Remove the coupler BEFORE heating up the hot end, and slide it up the tube so you only have the tubing stuck in the hot end alone. No reason to wait and risk a burn.
Thnks for clear coupler m sizes
Thank you!
Thx !
Hmm... they must have changed something at Creality. I just got my Ender 3 v2 at December 1st and guess what ... the couplers do have metal teeth. Yes, I'm sure of this. I checked with a microscope; nice and shiny little teeth in there. I also checked with a magnet and the magnet sticks to it so definitely metal.
Pro tip: if you are going to replace the ptfe tube, you might also want to remove the nozzle and check&clean the flat back end of the nozzle to make sure there is no debris of plastic on there. If you don't, the problem will become worse every time you re-install a (new or freshly cut) ptfe tube
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost the login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Andrew Randall I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Andrew Randall DAMN IT ACTUALLY WORKED! Just got access to my instagram login within about 40 mins by using the site.
I had to pay 15 bucks but for sure worth the price =)
Thanks so much you saved my account :D
You just helped me from having a mini heart attack after my PLA got stuck in the tube after it got gnawed in half after the PLA got wrapped up (no spool because it was the kind that came with the machine)
About to blow your mind... only the right screw on the back of the hot end needs to be removed :)
So what can we bump up print temps to now if running marlin? 300?
Nice video again on the Ender 3 V2 - I did a similar update to mine with the Capricorn brand tubing - looks the same stuff with the TH3D kit (same distinctive blue colour)
Pretty close, but TH3D Tough Tube is rated for a higher temp. Either way, it would be a good upgrade from the stock PTFE tube.
@@TheEdgeofTech I looked up some capricorn and found that the one you linked to on amazon is rated for 300 degrees, and they make them up to 340.
@@MeshJedi It's also good stuff, but just remember anything over 260 C and PTFE starts off guessing
@@TheEdgeofTech Ah never thought about higher temps - even though I have been 3D printing for about 6 years now, I haven't tried any PET/PETG or Nylons at all so far it's (high temps) never come up. There's so many different materials nowadays, it blows my mind compared to the early days of home printers - when I started out it was all ABS/PLA - Ninjaflex was just coming to market when I started out.
Parabens muito bem explicado.
Which better better size ptfe tube if am using 1.75 mm filaments, 2mm or 1.9mm inner diameter?
Is it essential to heat up the hot end, if I am replacing unused tubing with upgraded tubing (in a new printer, during the build)?
Hi Jim and everybody,
I am completely new to 3d printing but not designing. About ten days ago (after a long time pondering and asking question to a friend of mine who is deeply into 3d printing), I ordered my E3V2 (that's what I call this unit) directly from Creality.
Along with that I also ordered another glass plate, but also the Tungsten nozzles and the upgraded Belt tensioner don't know whether it was necessary but I got them, total price 295 US dollars which included free shipping.
Another purchase I did was to get was the gear extruder upgrader (to aluminium) and bed springs.
Looks like I should consider this upgrade as well while building the printer.
This printer will be used along with the software of Fusion 360 and SketchUp (latest version) and Cura.
The printer will have a separate dedicated desktop only to be in this setup.
I am trying to get the needed upgrades before building this unit - your input will be helpful.
Thank you all!
How does one remove the bowden tube from the coupler on the extruder side? Mine is very stubborn. I have this blue tubing you have, but I had a serious jam I needed to remove so I took it all apart. I cannot get the tube out, ended up cutting it off. I have no issues getting the tube out of the hot end side.
Hey, thanks for this vid. Question: I have a brand new v2 that I haven't assembled yet. I have my capricorn tube as well. Can I go and install this into the hotend without heating up the nozzle? Was the heating of the nozzle specifically for removing the stuck filament at the end of the old tube, or does it help with the expansion of the hoteend in order to make the assembly / fit better?
You need to heat the hotend because of thermal expansion. You want the nut to sit snugg at 200 C, not at room teperatur. Sonyou should tighten it at that temp. But you can assemble it cold and make it tight at 230 C
I'm not trying to be creepy stalker guy, but I'm pretty sure I deliver your mail occasionally (I'm one of the subs) I'd seen your company name on some stuff I left there so I googled it. I have a not too much smaller channel than you focused on scale modeling and occasionally 3D printing as my background is in 3D. At least now I can put a face to the name.
How are the bowden tube couplings removed from the Ender 3 V2 Neo? I'm not seeing anywhere to get a wrech on them.
There is no need to loosn the short screw 😉 . Anyway, good video!
So can I print abs after this ?
Hello, could you please be so kind as to provide me with your parameters regarding retraction distance and retraction speed?
Hi, There is No need to remove the small screw on the hot end cover as it attaches to the plate with the 2 side clips on it. I have used the Capricorn tubing, much better from the comments I have seen on other channels. I have just started printing with my E3V2 that I purchased just after Christmas here in Australia... thanks for the info.
I tried to pull out ptfe tube from coupler with full strength but they are just locked in it. I have detached tube from both ends, but those stupid couplers not coming odd
I went with the same set up from TH3D on my V2. Unfortunately after a while, (30 or so prints), the teeth inside the coupler don't hold as well as they should causing the tube to move in and out of the coupler during retraction/extrusion. :( Going to get a different style of coupler that allows the tube all the way through the coupler so that it can be widened a little and be pressed up against the tensioner bracket to stop that from happening.
Did what you tried work?
I found out that the original PTFE tube that's shipped with the printer has a wider hole than 2.0mm and by replacing it with a 2.0 one made my printer skip extruder steps, underextrude and clogged the end of the PTFE tube, due to the retractions and the end of a PTFE tube not being wide enough. One could think, that this TH3D PTFE 1.9mm would produce the same results.
What is the symptom that tells you that is time to change the tuve?
Awesome info thanks! Do you not have to put the little plastic coupler clips back on before assembling the fan shroud and on the extruder end?
Are you talking about the little C clips on the coupler? If so, I dont, but you can if you want to!
@@TheEdgeofTech Never had issues? I never really understood the use for them if you're the only one that uses it. 🤔
@@kevinjones6924 I haven't had issues with these replacements, but yes I do use them with the stock ones.
@@kevinjones6924 without the clips, the plastic part of the coupler can move back, if the tension is let off - say upon retract - and that makes it hard to retract (adds a mm or so of retract you need to do), and also the continual movement can lead to failure of the coupler.
@@JasperJanssen thanks Jasper! This was awhile ago lol.
On the back of the shroud, isn't the left screw a fan fastener that does NOT need to come off? On my V2 (same machine as in the video), only the one on the right needs to be removed for the shroud to come off (with the fans). The left side of the shroud is only secured in place by 2 plastic tabs. All this is in REAR view of course, like in the video.
Great video but can you tell me what is the reason to swap out the boden tubing it came with
Causes jams when printing hotter than 220 after a while. It is not rated for high temps apparently. This was the one problem with my v2
So I have a mono Price cadet 3d printer an I been looking for a new Bowden Coupler an the ones I been running in to, the thread is to wider to fix on my printer. An I was also looking for the kind that the Bowden tube can go str8 thru the Couple instead of the ones that stops the Bowden tube from going all the way through it.
HELP ANYONE????!
A bit late, but why does it matter that the tube is the same size as the default PTFE tube? Doesn't it just need to feed it into the hotend?
Nice! Can I request a fan replacement on the V2 video?. Mine is making a noise and is probably about to die!!!!!
Buy a noctua fan. Best you can get
The first thing you said take your old coupler out and "this is the same if you have the upgraded extruder or the plastic one" then when you say to put the new one in you say "grab the one with the small threads"... I've got the upgraded extruder and there is NO WAY the coupler with the small thread will fit in my the female threaded parts would swallow the whole coupler.... did they send me the wrong part? After I just installed this double geared extruder?!
Why should we do this? Is this just to change the color of the tubing?
hi, does this setup hold up as well as the washer one.?.. i never did the washer mod... thax
I am also interested to see if it's better to go to the two parts tube with the washer as well
"The only tools you need for this upgrade were the allen wrench that came with the kit and the wrench that came with the kit" what a out the tube clippers, mine didn't come with that and I don't know what to do, is it super important to get a perfectly clean cut
Time for this upgrade. 🤞
Just finished the upgrade.
Most important is making sure the hot end is the following:
1. Make sure the hot end coupler is tight. Then loosen like 75% ish
2. Bottom out the hot end tubing. THEN tighten the coupler down and it will push the tubing down farther!!!
your comment is so helpful thank you 😭❤ gonna try this since it keeps loosening no matter what i do. wish me luck...
Why does the hotend have to be heated for this?
How do you get that Bowden tube off? I'm pulling really really hard and it isn't coming off. I heated everything to 230. Actually, The fitting came unscrewed very simply preheating. I can't imagine that that caused the problem with the tube not coming out.
This Ender 3 V2 has been great until the past week. i've replaced the nozzle to find that my unit wasn't assembled correctly and the fan in the shroud isn't attached to anything. Fun. But now I now that the loose wood screws in it were creating the vibrating noise.
If you can't get it off by pulling, push the tube through it. That should help.
Intro tab pls
Doesn't this make it impossible to get filemament out of the tube when it breaks or runs out out of the roll? Also what temperature does the rough tubing handle? Capricorn doesn't handle any more than regular, just closer to the filament diameter inside.
It's rated up to 275C but only recommended up to 260c before off gassing starts the PTFE. It's pretty easy to get it out when it breaks inside, you just push another piece through it and it comes out. :) Thanks for watching!
@@TheEdgeofTech Then you need to push a whole ptfe tube length of filament through the nozzle though. You can't just print with a new filament pushing form behind since it won't retract
Will these Bowden couplers fit on the anycubic kobra plus.
I am not sure. I don't have one to check.
2:02 No, you're incorrect. You only need to remove the screw on the right side.
It's no longer available on Amazon. is there another link that I can use for my Ender 3 V2?
I updated the link and here it is! amzn.to/2WmG2TG
Im unable to remove the shroud enough to change this tube, you did it so easily perhaps its because my machine is right out of the box but I am so far unable to remove the fan cover far anough to unscrew the bolt :( any suggestions?
Brand new machine and i dont want to break anything
Were you able to get it off? Same issue for me
@@cliffrossberg8951 Nah, I think I just went in from below.
@k C137 Is it the clips on the right hand side that a causing it not to remove? You only have to remove the longer bolt, then you have to swing the shroud, and gently coax the 2 clips on the right side off. It took me a few minutes to do it, but I let the hot end cool off so I didn't burn myself, but like you, my machine is only a few weeks old, so these clips were holding really well!
@3:28 And that's wehere I destroyed my coupler. I don't understand how anyone gets the coupler off the bowden tube without destroying the teeth on the coupler. I pulled off the blue clip, pushed down the collar, and it was stuck. I pulled, I pushed... Still stuck. I just had to force it out, and the tiny washer of teeth that grabs the bowden tube tore and came out with the tube and the collar.
Now that it's toast, do I need the entire coupler, or can I just buy the toothed washer?
I burned through 3 couplers in the same way. The capricorn tubing caused my filament to break at the extruder gear, because the teeth ground away at the filament especially during retractions. The couplers were trash though and I don't think you can fix them.
Do you have to heat up the nasal to take the tube out
You may or may not depending on how hard it is to get out of the hot end. Technically you don't, but a lot of times the tube is stuck in the hot end and it's easier to heat it up and pull it out carefully.
Thank you
Hi there, can a new ptfe tube cause stringing? the lenght is the same.
It is possible, if it's not pushed all the way down to the nozzle. Also you want to calibrate after replacing for PTFE tubing. Make sure the flow is the same because if it's a better than stock PTFE tubing it could be sliding better and causing more filament to come through. Then the stock PTFE tubing did.
@@TheEdgeofTech Can you point me to a tutorial for calibration?
checking back, my stringing is driving me nuts. made a calibration cube and it's ~20.06 in every side. (i think it's good)
Did you use Teflon tape on the hot end ??????????
It comes installed on some ends. If yours doesn't, you don't need to add it.
How is this tough tubing different from Capricorn tubing?
I imagine it’s cheaper.
It's rated for higher temp.
Why can't we just super glue the bowden tube to the coupler?
Because the parts move and need to be removed if necessary. :)
Never use superglue with the combination of heat! It's a direct fire hazard and the fumes that are coming long before are extremely bad for you.
Didn’t show how to pull of the tube from the coupler. No vids do that because it’s too tough?
I have never seen my PTFE tubing move. I just don't understand why I would do this as a upgrade and not just wait for the tubing to go bad and then use this for a replacement
well thats what he means also... he shows step by step how to here... if you print enough the regular will fail sooner or later( the stock couplers are prone to fail imo)...this setup is more reliable when installed correctly... lets say you have been printing 24-48 hour prints with no issues... but when a large print fails do to clogged nozzle etc its costly... anytime you can improve reliability on a machine its a good thing... i have 2 printers and i have had 100's of prints fail for various reasons.which is how i learned.. some you can't prevent and others you can...
My bowden tube is stuck no matter what I tried
What's with all these people not owning zip ties, this is the second video "if you have zip ties" 🤔 I probably have too many but I've over 1000 of them.
Your links are not working! Nice video...
Plastic teeth in the old couplers? You're kidding right? Right?
Nope! Many of them had/have plastic teeth in the couplers.
@@TheEdgeofTech I'm genuinely shocked. Something else to look out for then. Why on earth they would think that was a good idea gawd only knows. Wow.
wha't the problem with your hairs ? You just got out of the shower ? :)
I just used a pair of scissors..... my new tube didn't come with any fancy high class cutter....