Creality Ender 3 V2 - Fixing the Hidden Problem that Can Cause Stringing and Unresponsiveness
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- This is a GREAT printer, especially for the price. BUT not everything is working as it should be. For some time I have been struggling to understand why this printer with the Bowden setup was not as responsive with retraction/extrusion as It should have been. Why is a direct drive with a 1mm working very well, and a Bowden using 5mm with good results?. The two systems aren't that different and it doesn't seem possible to lose 4mm just due to the Bowden tube.
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In this video we dive in to find the source of the problem. This one was nearly invisible, but it is there Hiding and it only gets worse over time.
One we've found the source, we'll order some new parts and use some unique techniques to achieve a better result than the stock printer.
I truly hope this solution is helpful to many of you, it certainly baffled my mind for a while.
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If there is any interest, we'll design and make a better fitting for a more permanent solution, so please let me know in the comments if this is something you'd like to see.
#ender3
#3dprinting
#Problemsolving - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Please check out the follow up video for a better solution, PTFE is toxic at high temps and it is best to avoid heating it! th-cam.com/video/lboDSH0945g/w-d-xo.html
Ehhhh.... I guess. I just adjusted my retraction in my splicer settings and ran three tests and I have no issues.
or try not to heat to above 450c...?
Every video you upload my ender 3v2 goes a step closer to becoming a prusa
I'll have to check out their product, I haven't had the pleasure of owning one!
@@NeedItMakeIt print enough for some customers and one day you will :)
@@NeedItMakeIt My first hand knowledge and recommendation is to stay away from the mini. Mine, not once, gave me a decent print. This was my experience; others maybe different and I'm happy for them but my mini+ was horrible - it now occupies a landfill.
Lol agree
Wait till someone finally does a video for the fixed height bed spacers for creality printers, you'll be one step past a prusa then 👍😜
I'm new to this 3D printing world. I was having a serious issue of underextrusion, tried everything and nothing was solving it, until I found this video. Thanks dude!
No problem. Every so often the Bowden tube will need to be checked for movement. Eventually either the fitting will fail, or the tube will become worn and will need to be re-cut and re-inserted, it does take quite a while. Good luck and happy printing!
I'm not going to lie to you here, as a PC enthusiast I'm banging my head into the desk asking why this isn't a compression fitting. It would make the most sense to just have a collar you twist down and know it's secure.
don't bang your head, these fittings are very good (if you buy high quality ) this type are used on many high tech machinery with no problem. a compression fitting actually pitches down the diameter. video doesn't show how to release the tube from the fitting (maybe doesn't know) pushing the the plastic ring on top down COMPLETELY releases the fingers inside and tube will pull out with no effort, if it doesn't the fitting is probably a low quality piece.
Try to make that fitting and you will find out why you are banging your head against the desk.😁
Compression fittings compress. With pliable materials like Teflon tubing ID will be reduced.
@@stevecade857 With a plastic compression ferrule it doesn't need to compress much at all to have a strong hold doe to the contact area and overall fitting design. If you use metal compression ferrules they can bite into the tubing with almost zero deformation of the tube but they're not reusable.
You'd be surprised how useful this knowledge can be, even outside of this specific application.
Explain x3
Well I don't know what TS ment but I worked at ABB as a test engineer with cooling systems for power transfer. There's a lot of these fittings with tubes for cooling systems in like MRI machines, so any pressure transducers might start to give faulty readings or weird values if there's play like this.
@@no_one6749 remove the inspirational video music and his comment then becomes pointless.
Your flaring idea is great! A similar technique is used in vhehicular brake line fittings. A previous commenter pointed out that such fittings are compression. I solved the play in the extruder fitting on my older Ender 3 Pro by ty-wrapping the bowden tube and wiring cable directly to the end of the fitting. The result is zero movement. Thanks for the vid!
Just buy a Capricorn kit. Install the fittings and leave them loose by a couple of turns. Insert the tubing until it bottoms out. Then finish tightening the fittings the rest of the way down. It'll bite and hold the tube and keep it seated properly.
Did this on my Ender 3 Pro and the tube has 0 movement after months and months of use.
I'm impressed, I know the Capricorn tubing has a good rating and it is supposed to be toleranced and the stock extruder fitting is terrible. I still believe the extruder side cannot benefit from pushing the tube in and then tightening the fitting to the final position unless it is a M10 through fitting like the hotend side. The V2 has an M6 on the extruder, the tube bottoms out in the fitting and relies only on the teeth to hold the tube in place. I may just go ahead and purchase the Capricorn tubing, I felt that the one I've purchased is a little too tight on the ID.
Totally agree with you
I still get the same issue with official capricorn fittings and tube after 3-4 months. Just ordered fittings from a pneumatic supply. Also your method only works with fittings that allow the tube to pass through completely. The smaller fitting on my Ender and in this video doesn't do this.
i did this too, but heavy use just melts that end eventually no matter what. I'm jealous of direct drives. Does the aftermarket tube not melt?
@@d-rockpain4250 Yes, I just pulled the tube out because of my first time printing CF with a 0.6 hard steel nozzle and it had glogged... no end of problems for trying something new. The end of the tube had melted but I also believe that maybe the tube was not in quite far enough. A good time is to grab some fine sandpaper to insert the tubes, it makes a world of difference... the tube is made to be slippery afterall.
I received a ender 3 v2 on 3/26 and they had a better fitting with more metal teeth. Prints great! I did the tape test and there's no movement at all. Still upgrading to capricorn for high temp printing, but the stock tubing prints great. Also the extruder knob has a brass insert now which is a major plus.
Good tip. . . put your build plate in the freezer to remove stubborn parts. It works great, and by removing the build plate from the printer when you remove your parts you're not exerting any pressure on the bed, which can throw off the levelling! Also a good tip, If you're going to be printing any tight fitting precision parts, then I strongly recommend that you first square off the frame of your printer.
OK, so I purchased my second E3V2 3D printer a couple of weeks ago. My first printer was a major source of frustrations at times, and especially up until 2 weeks ago. But, it gave me a heads up as to what to expect after printing on an E3V2 3D printer 24/7 for 7 months. I'd had extruder problems, under-extrusion problems, bed-levelling problems. You name it, I probably had the problem. The lever on the stock extruder of my older first printer also cracked, and I replaced it with an aluminum one. In my opinion, these types of extruders, both plastic and metal, are flawed in design. They are inadequate for feeding filament to the hot end, and especially at lower temperatures. So even PLA can become a problem to print. In any case, they do not seem to be 100% compatible with Creality's stock hot end.
As with anything else I do, I attempted to find that sweet spot where everything works smoothly and perfectly. To solve the under-extrusion problem, I'd tried slowing down print speed and making the hot end hotter, but neither of these things helped me to eliminate the clicking sounds coming from these types of extruders. In theory, slowing down the print speed should have given the filament enough time to melt. If so, the extruder would not have had to force the filament through to the hot end. But this was not the case, and the solution was far from obvious. It should also have kept the extruder gear from grinding down on the filament, because when the filament is melted properly the extruder does not consistently bite down on the same segment of filament. After I got fed up of experimenting with these things, and realizing that these weren't working, I switched to Creality's direct drive. This shortened the travel length between extruder and hot end, and reduced drag on the filament caused by friction in the long Bowden tube. I had to reduce retraction down to 1.5mm and my prints are printing perfectly. Enough about the printer feed system.
Next, these printers also lack X-axis gantry support on the right side of the printer. Auto bed-levelling devices only help with bed surface irregularities. These do not level the bed, so all that hype on the internet is actually misleading. It's not a bed-levelling device at all! It's an irregular bed surface compensation sensor which uses a mesh pattern to raise or lower the Z-axis depending on the depth of the bed from the sensor's tip, and indirectly, the hot end nozzle. The lack of X-axis gantry support causes the gantry to sag on the right side. I'd removed and disassembled the gantry in an attempt to raise it slightly, but that didn't do very much. You might not think this matters, but on their own that single brass nut and lead screw are not enough to support the extra weight on the right side of the gantry. I'd had major bed-levelling issues and I believe that this was because of the sagging gantry. So, I added a second lead screw to the right side of both of my printers at a cost just under $200 CAD. The screws must be synced together, otherwise it can lead to other problems. This is easy to do. I left the setscrew (grub screw to some of you) that fastens the lead screw to the coupler loose on both sides of the printer. I turned the couplers to move the gantry up as high as I needed it to, so that I could use gravity and physics to align the teeth on the screws. Then, I used the Move>Z axis, and dropped the gantry as low as needed to sync the screws together. When this was done, all I needed to do was fasten the lead screw to the coupler with the setscrew. I raised and lowered the gantry several times to make sure there weren't any problems. I didn't get it on the first try. I had to try a couple of times before everything worked smoothly, and without locking up the stepper motors. This not only added gantry right side support, but once adjusted, it also keeps the gantry perpendicular with the frame side extrusion. It also makes it easier to level the bed. In theory, if the gantry is perpendicular to the frame side extrusions I can level the bed so that it is parallel with the gantry. A good way to test this is to print a square part. The part should be perfectly square or as close to it as is possible, and not a skewed version of it.
And last, but not least, I replaced the recommended stronger yellowish-colored bed springs for more rigid silicone mounts. Neither the stock springs or suggested yellowish-colored springs make any bit of difference at maintaining the bed level once it's been adjusted. Vibrations can easily unscrew those knobs and throw off the levelling. The silicone mounts made a huge difference. For example, I've had my new printer setup as described above. It's been printing 24/7 for 2 weeks without having to be relevelled. My older printer has been setup this way for only a few days, but it too has not needed to be relevelled. I remember having to relevel the bed on my older printer every couple of days with the stock springs. The yellowish-colored springs kept the bed level a day or so longer. But neither of these kept my bed level and printing 24/7 for 2 weeks time! Oh, and I've started my 3rd week of printing. All I've had to tweak is the Z-offset by about 0.1mm, but my bed has remained consistently level for all this time.
Now that my older printer is set up this way, all the problems I'd had with it are completely gone. My second, newer printer hasn't had any problems yet, and I think I've solved the issues I'd had with these few simple recommendations.
well i had many issue with a printer (tevo tarantula) which lead to a complete change of hotend, bowden tube, extruder and to hours of unknown problems, until i pissed off and drop the whole idea of 3d printing for an year, then i bought an ender3 v2 neo as was a nice deal for black friday and i start all over, with that all gone easy and started printing after 10 minute from unboxing, then i take back the tevo and found most of the problem was caused by my inexperience and after a day of work into it and a couple of part printed i ressurected the tevo and now both print nice and well... most of the initial problems was my fault tighting the axis roller too much and did a bad job with the bowden so the filament was rubbing in it and extruder was skipping a lot digging into the filament, fixed those problems the Tevo start printing like a boss...
Yes the enders 3 all suffer or will suffer at some point of the x sagging and the super clumsy bed system that can't maintain the calibration. The bowden system is not such a problem imo, but I have the neo with metal extrusor and I have it tight so it has good torque. The x gantry for the moment l can have it pretty much square for weeks until I need to push it up. I overshot the height position of the right so when I tighten the excentric nut it moves down a little and ends up where I want it (at the same height of the left side obviously). I check with physical objects and with a leveler. Then for the bed I printed the leveling wheels clips that don't allow them to move THES ARE A MUST Imo (for those with springs being yellow or the basic ones). I check the bed via pronterface and level it until I like the numbers of the sensed 16 points. The other thing is the z offset, I use a thermal receipt paper which is thinner and more suited for the task. Then I use a little of adhesive spray sometimes and the ratio of good or even excellent prints is a lot higher. I'm printing for a month now and really enjoying the process. Ender 3 machines are printers with potential but they are not good out of the box, or not for more than two or three prints anyways... But hence the price.
@@Drumaier I only managed to get a glass-like finish for a short period of time, and have not been able to get it to print like that since. These printers are a constant source of work to get them to work optimally.
This is spot on i can say after 1 year owning the ender 3 v2. Right side of the gantry sagging is what i immediately noticed after i assembled the printer for the first time. I just reassembled to whole gantry about 5 times before i was happy and could make nice prints without bed leveling issues. The stock springs wiggle and dont stay in place. Silicone bed spacers and a using a pei sheet saved me so much frustration.
I found a super simple solution to the tube loosening in the bowden tube adapter, use one of the amazing goop products like shoe goo to basically glue the bowden tube to the plastic ring of the adapter, it doesnt take a lot just a fillet between the adapter ring and the ptfe tube. A tip here is lick your fingers and you can shape the fillet without glue sticking to your fingers. This glue sticks solidly to the ptfe tube and the ring, the ring can still rotate in the fitting, and the glue peels off easily when you need to remove it. I have done this on ender 3 pros right out of the box and they lasted until I replaced the whole extruder setup over a year later, the glue peeled off the tube and fitting easily and left no residue.
Nice...what type of glue works best?
@@koent7788 one of the amazing goop family of products like shoe goo
Wait I've just been staring at my ptfe going in and out like that thinking how cool you can see when the filament retracts and never thought of it as a point of defect. I'm getting that fixed ASAP!!!
Best solution yet that I've found is to purchase a PC-4 M6 Through fitting, or if you have the M10 with the metal extruder, you can push the tube in with some sandpaper to seat it all of the way, and then tighten the fitting that last 1/2 turn, this does an excellent job and it is super cheap.
@@NeedItMakeIt Unfortunately it's happening with a BMG clone
@@KentoCommenT Oh, I still have yet to try any of the BMG style so I can't help much there. I have the Bondtech LGX on order, I'm really looking forward to testing it, hopefully it isn't a letdown.
One possibility is drilling out the extruder end fitting then doing the same at that end. Honestly though, I'd probably go for a different, improved fitting. Or undo 1 thread revolution, seat the tube fully, then tighten the fitting again. The static pressure from both sides might prevent movement longer term.
I just noticed the slack my bowden was showing just the other day. Thank you for letting me know this isn't normal.
Thanks. Will keep this in mind when I get my V2.
Outstanding ender 3 v2 content. Please keep it coming
Hey thanks, I've working on a few more 3D print related videos, hopefully they'll turn out even better. I HAVE some new 3D printed camera equipment that I'm going to be using for the videos too to liven things up a bit!
Great video, it has convinced me a direct drive extruder is really the only way to go 😁
Detailed comprehensive analysis. Well done, and well presented.
Best compliment! I have a follow up video on the way with this problem solved completely. It may be more detailed, but still short and to the point.
@@NeedItMakeIt I have a Modix Big 60 with a volcano hot end and two Creality ender 5 plus printers with Micro Swiss hot ends. One of the crealities and the modix have Teflon tubing from McMaster Carr. It's high quality but the i.d. is a bit too large. I was puzzled why my continuous prints were near perfect while my prints with multiple starts and stops were either really stringy or resulted in a system jam, not caused by a clogged nozzle. I tried various retraction settings and then realized that the Bond Tech extruder's high torque, the oversized bowden tube and retraction settings resulted in the filament getting crinkled enough in the tube so that the filament was actually difficult to pull out of the tube even with the tube completely removed from the printer, and that the extruder, which has been calibrated, was actually pushing so hard that a small curl of filament was occurring after the drive gears. Yikes!
I am always learning, thanks again. Capricorn on order.
I am so glad that Ive found your videos! Most of other videos is related to the original ender 3. Can you share more detail about your mods and upgrade? Your enclosure? Keep it up man, I am enjoying your vids so far. Straight to the points and good explanation. I am surprised that your chanel hasn't blown up.
That's great to hear! I have lots more plans for 3D printing videos... I should have started making these sooner.
I try not to mod my machine too much, and the reason is that I want to make sure that it is cheap to replace if anything breaks down. I do not have a BL touch, though I have heard good things about it, I almost never level the bed, I always take the glass build plate off before removing parts so that I'm not applying any unnecessary pressure to the machine. The only mods so far are Octoprint and Spaghetti Detective... I used to watch the printer a lot, that is an incredible waste of time and really takes away from a person's life. With these two options, I can set everything up from my computer and then watch the printer from wherever I am over the internet, a big time-saver. I would recommend that mod over any other as long as you can justify it with the volume of prints that you make.
I recently switched from printing ABS to PETG, it is a little more expensive, but the payoff is huge. I can now print with the enclosure door open if I want to, there is no smell, the prints are very strong but still slightly flexible and now I don't need to worry about cooking the electronics in the printer, or overheating any motors over time.
My enclosure is just a simple MDF box, 1/4" thick material with a plexi removable door. It is still handy because it does reduce the sound so that I can record audio for these videos while the printer is going. The hotend fan is very loud on this printer, it needs an upgrade for sure, I think the fan shroud on the front is causing a restriction and consequently the noise.
Side note:
I picture the 3D printing industry exploding in the future, the tech will be different and will improve dramatically in the coming years. For that reason, I think it is a smart industry to get into. 3D printing opens up so many design/engineering possibilities that were not possible using wood or metal and it is relatively safe in comparison.
Is there anything in particular that you are looking for in future videos?
That image of the slide on clamp end you showed at the end is the way this should be designed I can't find any with that end. Do you know where to buy those or is that just an idea you had. Could be designed but really needs to be metal to last
@@NeedItMakeIt TH-cam doesn't notify me... so I totally forgot this comment. Your video is clearly well done on the video production-wise, as I find most of the 3D contents on TH-cam are hard to watch (obviously as most of us are nerds and don't have much experience of video production), the video quality is on point, but I think the lightning although are good but can be a bit brighter, and maybe your audio can be a bit more excited. Content-wise I think you should focus on upgrade, as most of us go to youtube to find new ideas. You can see the video about 3D printing has the most view is from the Scott yu yang, as he shared about his content and his video production is slick.
Just a thought from a guy who wasted so much time on youtube :D I really hope your TH-cam channel can improve man.
The longer the tube, the more stretch & compression you'll get in both the filament and the tube.
Probably not going to be much, but compared to direct drive, is another reason for the much greater retraction needed.
Thanks for the video. That type of fitting was introduced by a Japanese Company called SMC back in the late 80's. I had never seen it used in this kind of mechanical application. I have seen this kind of movement on cheaper versions of this fitting (when the line is charged). Try SMC.
Very good find my friend.
Worked Perfectly 👌 thanks buddy 👍 😎
Top notch!! Well done my issue solved!!
Thank you for the video...I am new to 3D printing and just got the 3v2 on the first print the Bowden tube popped out! Eventually I got the printer to print but it is not very sturdy so I ordered the tube and the fittings you recommend.
No problem, I'm still going with the same setup as shown in the video and I print very often, but I still think these fittings are flawed, too much movement will eventually cause the connection to fail, I'll be in the shop this weekend to see if I can prove a better design and if I can, I'll release a video on it. One note about the assembly. The tube has to be pushed in very hard, there was an initial stop, but it had to be pushed in a little further to seat properly in the fitting, I experienced this during assembly myself, the tube is hard to grip and push in.
Holy crap I now understand I was misunderstanding what refraction was! Hopefully this'll help with stringing! Thanks so much!
I need help I'm a newbie my filament coming out like ramen noodles and hard
Thank you!!! This totally solved my problem!
Moved to direct drive. Now I use 0.4 mm retraction. Before it was 5 mm. I know it's a bad comparison, cuz obviously, both setups has its pros and cons, but in my case it did a huge difference, time wise, printing small models. Great vid, very useful for bowden setups!
I started with direct drive and I did like it, so simple and it does allow printing of lots of different types of materials that Bowdens struggle with. I may upgrade down the line, I like the speed advantages and clean prints that this setup offers, a tradeoff I suppose. 0.4mm retraction is pretty amazing! You'd have less blobs and stringing and seams would probably look better as well.
Thank you for the tip!
@@NeedItMakeIt I am new to 3D printing. I just purchased a used Ender 5.
Is the 3D printer slower with direct drive because of the added mass?
@@philso7872 It can be slower, there are some tradeoffs, a direct drive is viewed by many people as an upgrade. There are more materials that can be easily printed, it is more responsive to retractions, seams look better, less stringing etc. To anwer your question though, they are normally a little slower because you can get the ghosting effect from vibrations through sudden movements. A printer with a solid frame will help to prevent vibrations. I started with a direct driver printer, however it was a terrible Anet A8 with a flimsy frame, I wasted a lot of time making it better (I should have invested more upfront into a better printer). I'd be happy to have a direct drive right now, I'm also pretty happy with the Bowden setup too.
Thank You for this video!!!! It was really helpful
I'm glad it was helpful!
Great. finally you got my subscription. Please keep good working bro.
Thanks for the sub! I have a pretty cool video coming up soon!
Thanks for the info.
D'oh! Thanks man. Was browsing while a print was running next to me and thought I'd put a marker spot by my extruder for the hell of it. And sure enough it had play... Thanks a mil, or a sub at least.
You and I seem to be having parallel journeys with our Ender 3 V2's. I changed mine to the 'upgraded' fittings too. I hate to tell you this but this will only work for a short period. After a month I was getting very noticeable movement at the extruder end and the fitting completely failed a week later by pushing pushing the tube out of the fitting. I replaced it again and I had about 3 weeks worth of printing before the movement came back.
The solution I found was the metal Creality extruder. There are a few versions out, but the latest doesn't even use a distinct screw-in fitting, but has a plastic insert that grips the tube in a few places. This seems to be rock solid.
Of note, the hot-end side fitting just failed on me too and pushed the metal teeth from the fitting INTO the nozzle. It's a long story, but these 'upgraded' fittings have been a nightmare.
Really, I had seen the plastic versions and figured they'd perform worse. I'd really like to make a fitting that is 'permanent' the hotend fitting seems to have no movement, so I'll focus on the other, this tubing is used for air and water also, and the typical connector is barbed. I do believe that the longer tube will help to releive some of the trouble with movement as well, but only time will tell. I can certainly post updates in the comments section so that people know whether they should go a different route.
I didn't mention in the video that I already cut the original tubing shorter and the movement shown in the video was what I had after a new clean cut, their selection of fittings is a poor choice, it looks like a case of designed-to-fail.
Thank you for your help BTW, I'll keep this in mind if I have some trouble down the road.
And that's why I gone to Direct drive route.
@@tomaskonkol8894 Direct drive does have some advantages, how do you handle the ghosting issues?
When I replaced my extruder with a dual-geared one, I managed to re-use the original tube without problem. It was tricky holding the fitting in the unlock position and pulling at the same time.
By chance do you know if the dual-gear comes with a M10 threaded hole, or is it M6? I have purchased the metal replacement from Creality because my plastic one is starting to warp. I'll have a follow up video coming in a little over a week to offer better solutions to solve this tube problem for good!
@@NeedItMakeIt The one I bought was almost a direct fit with the original hardware. The PTFE tube nut was the only thing sized different. I had to kajigger my filament sensor into place, though. Flipped the screws around the wrong way on the plate, used a rubber band to "Set height" on the screws, then another rubber band to keep it on the screws.
standard industrial airline components will always have this play. This the trade off when using quick release connectors.
As the guy slyly suggested at the end of the video, a permanent connector with a jubilee/ hose clip will be the ideal solution if you want to forsake the quick release connection.
Very correct as they are meant to have pressure on them, you have to push the tubing in to be able to unlock them... SMC even makes a special tool to remove the tubing from these types of fittings
Amazing.
Change extruder to extruder with same tube fitting as at hotend. Original extruder have small and bad tube fitting. The tube is loose in and worsens the retraction, because it is then necessary to set the length of the retraction 2 mm longer to 5mm. Change original tube to PTFE Capricorn. Unscrew fittings 360 degres from full tightness before give new PTFE tube into new tube fitting, lock up the tube and tighten fitting. Set smaller lenth of rettraction from 5 to 3 mm.
I had this problem as well and replaced my bowden tube with capricorn tubing and new fittings. The one on the extruder end failed after only a few weeks. I replaced it with the second one that came in the kit and figured out that i was the one causing the problem with the first one. When swapping out the filament i was pushing it in too hard trying to get it loaded and was pushing the tubing into the teeth (they are made of metal after all) cutting into it. Learned to straighten out the end of the filament before inserting it into the extruder. Went in a lot eaiser. Have been printing now for about 3 months with no problems so far. Also replaced the plastic extruder with a dual gear all metal one. Really like it. But have to say the best upgrade i've done to my ender 3 V2 is the BL touch auto bed leveling sensor. No more having to worry about my first layer not adhering to the bed any more (real problem with that until then). FYI - Am using your pi cam V2 bed camera mount really like it. Like that it moves with the bed makes time lapses look really good.
Did you have to print the mount for your BLTouch if so could you share a link to it?
@@robgorman3965 I used this mount www.thingiverse.com/thing:4462870/files and this firmware smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/ if you use the mount i've added to this post and the firmware then all you have to do is set the z offset which is a lot easier then having to set the x, y, z offsets.
@@Larry67902 thank you so much for your quick reply and the links I will try this at the weekend.
@@Larry67902 thanks aswell havent come to do this yet.. i have it in the mount allready. And I redid the cable so it fits the board with just one cable (had to change the end that goes on the mainboard)
And I too have been sharpening my filament by cutting it diagonal and then pushing it in. Thnx for all the tips.
Also what material did you print the cam mount? I wanted to print it with pla bit havent done it yet. Went wrong when I used multible parts and then skipped infill everywall so it whould fill with double ammount. Then did not set it to hop parts so it ruined the whole print by running through all the walls. (Made sense after looking back at it)
@@TriMeX1987 I just used PLA with 20% infill but i did have to reduce the size of the part that has the 2 cone shaped pieces that allow the camera to swivel by 2% because it did not have a good enough friction fit to hold it in position when the bed was moving. And before anyone ask i have my printer dialed in correctly. Calibration cube reads exactly the right size on all axes with my calipers. Yes i to replaced the DuPont female connectors with new JST female connectors and a 5 pin JST connector that fits perfectly into the main board's BL Touch connector.
Do you put graphite on your rollers? I saw they look similar to mine. I started using pencil cores to "lube" my wheels to potentially prolong their life.. Mine have the same grey sheen as yours does!
I first used the pencil lead to lube my Linear Rod as I remembered that locksmiths use dry lube such as graphite to lube the inside of locks instead of grease and oil which capture dirt over time.
This is the exact issue on my ender 5 pro, the fitting is wearing out and have changed to the spare one but it still does it since never thought to expand it like this or just the stock fittings have too much play in them. (Comes stock with Capricorn)
Will have to look into buying new fittings
thanks a lot, really help me. Greetings from Chile
Greetings from Canada!
Helpful video, good advice and I learned what to look for. I do cringe when you use pliers on your fittings, use a proper wrench, your fittings will love you for it.
The gray aluminum extruder kit from creality uses a pass through fitting that will allow you to bottom out the Bowden tube in a counter bore in the extruder and then tighten the fitting like you would and the hot end. Solved my retraction problems. Not sure if the red one is also like this but it does not appear to be.
I bought one and it will be in my next video as well, great tip though, bottom it out then tighten the fitting and it pre-loads it so it doesn't have room to move. The red one is an M6, I'll be testing it in a future video, it has a dual gear and there is an issue with the secondary gear wearing through the aluminum over time.
Compression fittings are they to go for a ptfe bowden setup. Look at what the Prusa Mini uses. That is what you should try to get. The ones that use the Brass Collet. If I need to upgrade or fix one on any of my machines using a bowden setup that is what I will be getting.
I will say that on my Ender 3 a while back I went to BMG Extruder using a E3D Grove Mount Adapter & the E3D Threaded Bowden Coupler on the hotend. The groove mount is aluminum & the threaded coupler is a plastic material and do not cost much at all. They are Push Fit fittings which are a type of compression bit not as good at true compression fitting that use a brass collet. But since using the E3D fittings I have had very very few issues. The only real issue I've had is that the nut part of the threaded couple is larger so you sort of need to tread it on the hotend with the hotend detached. Other than the extra step during install they hold ptfe tubes real well. I have not had much slip if any at all. Only time I have to fittle with them is when I do not pull the filament out fast enough and it hardens into a glob getting stuck.
I hate the generic fittings that use those little metal teeth. They are total crap and always wear down over time.
Anyways look into getting a compression fitting that uses a brass collet. They are actually the best types to get for ptfe bowden set up in my opinion.
I've not seen the ones with brass.
Tonight I modded a brass fitting with a through hole, passed the tube through and flared the end just slightly, the flare now bottoms out and compresses against the bottom of the threaded hole for what I believe is a simple permanent solution. The hotend side will still need to be addressed on occasion due to wear from the heat, I may but the best Capricorn tube to see how it lasts.
Thanks for your tips, I'll check out the fitting on the mini, this is not a problem people should be having out of the box with these printers.
Nice! Too bad Home Depot is closed tomorrow or i would go and buy some compression fittings from the water line section. I doubt they have one with a compression sleeve small enough but using a solder iron set to 400c should be able to press fit it in and completely eliminate movement forever.
They sell 1/8" fittings.
thingiverse has the 3 piece fitting printable. booyah
The Bowden tube completely detached from my Ender 3 Pro extruder during a print once. I'll be upgrading the tube and fittings when I make the upgrades to print with TPU filament.
I was pulling my hair out on every print. I would stand and watch the brim and first couple of layers hoping nothing got screwed up. And it did, most of the time. Then I purchased the "WINSINN Dual Gear Extruder". All aluminum, twin gear driven. I recalibrated all the settings and I can no for the first time hit print and walk away. The plastic, single drive just never worked right.
I have also encountered problems with the fittings on my ender, two bowden couplers have failed catastrophically on me to date, and I try to replace them with good quality ones. My current plan is to machine a compression type fitting that will work for my ender, but that will have to wait until time permits...
I agree, I found an m6 fitting for bleeding motorcycle brake lines, it seems to have the right shape, I can't find anything on Amazon, like you, machining one seems like a good option. I was thinking to solder a piece to the current fitting and then machine on a barbed section carefully. A compression fitting would be better for sure.
You can wind a metal nut onto Bowden tube. Is a custom printed hex fitting, that captures the nut possible?
I spent 2 days trying to understand with I was having problems on the retraction. I get in the same conclusion when making a mark with a black pen on the bowden. It was always moving on every retractions ! This was making some click on the extruder.
I'll have a video out tomorrow with as close to a permanent solution to no movement as I can think of. I'd really like to know what you think.
Direct drive. A Boden is a silly idea, as they are not for pushing. Move the motor to the head, and pull the filiment through the tube. It's a night and day difference. There are plenty of designs out there.
@@falsedragon33 Direct drive is good and bad as boden can be good or bad. Direct drive have less problem on pushing the filament but the second law of Newton apply also. With a heavier hotend there is more problems on accelerations and more jerks. You will have to print more slowly to compensate ;-)
Nice!
Thank you for making me see the truth, I'm sure very few realize that
solid
I used to own a da Vinci Pro and had the same problem. My solution was to make a bracket that grabbed onto the Bowden tube AND the fitting, thus holding both in non moveable grip.
I've seen some designs which had tapered threads on them to grab onto the tube. Recently I tried to use heat-shrink to see if it would grab to the PTFE, if it could I'd heat shrink the tube a few times and then with a larger dia. I'd do the fitting a tube together, unfortunately the heat shrink slid right off easily. They really should be using fittings and techniques used for car brake lines. Vibration is no issue, leaking is no issue and it is dead simple.
@@NeedItMakeIt
Ah.
I designed a collar and lined it with sanding paper. It gripped the Bowden tube just fine.
@@Traitorman.14.3 Very clever! You are the first person to suggest that idea.
My cr10 has always had this issue. I trimmed the tube end fresh, and swapped nozzles. It is doing it again, so we have to step it up again this time. This design makes it less possible to color filament on the go with marker adapters. The tube will get gross with undry ink, so direct drive has a lot of benefit.
That's a very cool technique I only just saw someone showing how it is done. Pretty amazing. BTW I was in the shop tonight and I believe I have fixed the problem for good, I've drilled a thru hole in the connector exactly 4mm, run the tube through, heated the end and rotated my phillips to flare it just slightly, the fitting goes back in and the tube seems to bottom out in the threaded hole. I have to test it for a week to prove it now.
Anything is better than retrimming till it's too short
Great video.
Thanks, I have a few follow ups, the best solution I've found so far is to purchase a Pc-4 M6 through fitting, it seems impossible, but they are available to buy for pretty cheap. Leave the fitting about 1/2 turn loose, push the tube in fully with some sandpaper to help and then tighten, it loads the springs nicely and bottoms out the tube into the hole, simple and effective.
Can I say that I have found that your "less expensive" filament will throw you curve balls and jam every timer, regardless of fittings. What a pain in the butt!
Quality counts! And I know, that some folks will have no issues printing with crap filament, so, your mileage may vary.
Just my .02.
I'm not sure if your still working on better solution but if you go get a brass ferrel and compression fitting for regular plumbing works great. I think also microswiss has somthing simular now
Nice vid. In the car world on hard thin vacum tubes i have seen small metal u shaped springs that cuts a bit in to the tube at one end and apply pressure against the fitting so that the tube is always being pulled out to keep a small tension on the fitting. This is to prevent tubes falling out because of vibration. Maybe this would work.
That sounds like a pretty good solution, do you have a link or a photo that would guide me down the right path?
@@NeedItMakeIt Search fuel retaining clip, but i cant find them so small. You could try a small coil spring and a sharpen e-clip around the ptfe tube.
what if you just sanded the end of the tubing, and used masking tape like that? Granted, you'd have to be careful not to get any dust in your machine from sanding, but if you can avoid that, I'd guess it would be an alternative solution. You could also lightly scrape the end with a knife if you don't have sanding paper, as long as you don't pierce through to the inside. Just some ideas to throw out there.
I had the same problem, but all I did was unscrew the metal fitting and pushed the tube all the way back (basically flush with the stepper motor) and then reattach the metal fitting. It doesn't even budge now.
With the M10 thru fitting? I can't see that helping at all with the M6 as it doesn't bottom out in the threaded hole.
Thanks.
@@NeedItMakeIt Maybe I was having a slightly different problem. My tube would pop off causing under-extrusion. Pushing it further into the fitting and then tightening it down allowed more of the tube to be held in by the little blue clip. I dig your Channel BTW!
Im going to teach you a trick. If you insert the PTFE tube into the heat choke you should be able to push it out the other side without a nozzle. Pull it back slightly just even with the opening of the nozzle insert, so when you tighten the nozzle it lays flush with the PTFE tube. Lock heat choke coupler in place and thread a 2 full turns. By further tightening the nozzle will push back on the coupler. Release coupler, while tightening nozzle snug. Engage coupler, hand tight nozzle.
What's the issue with the tube moving a little? And what's the issue with having a larger retraction number? My retraction is up to 7 now and movement is crazy but I don't have any problems?
There are many assumptions in this article.
Firstly Bowden is pronounced Bow as in WOW.
The PTFE tube and fittings are specifically designed and made for compressed air or fluid use not as a guide tube.
The fittings are a bastardised Festo design for a quick connect air fitting with the sealing O ring removed, hence the slack in the line fit as the barbs are not hold in the correct position.
What is required is a Swagelock style asymmetrical ferrule and fitting.
This style fitting will grip the tubing and as long as not over tightened will be a vast improvement over stock.
Additionally the excess movement is calculatable if you measure the inside id of the tube and the od of the filler and for every 15 degrees of bend allow for the difference.
Outboard motor control cable design is basis for formula.
E.G. the id is 3mm the od is 2.5mm difference is 0.5mm bend radius is 45 degrees 45/15 = 3. 3 X 0.5mm is 1.5 of excess filler movement.
Measure bend at several hot end and z track heights and average the bend radius.
Interesting diagnosis but some assumptions are not so sound.
Tape worked for me.
use cat nail clippers with a deep grove to cut the ptfe tube. it helps keep it round
Good tip, I have some. A piece of filament inside could also help a bit even with the clippers.
I use my cable sheath cutter for my cat 5/6 network cables works like a charm!
@@mrbilky Nice, probably a lot higher quality cut than the provided cutters with the tubing. I believe I have a final solution to fix this movement for good, the part I thought I was getting wasn't quite what I expected, so it will require some minor adjustment. Hopefully I can make it work and it can allow for a low cost permanent solution for anyone.
I just got those same calipers yesterday! Weird!
Friend,I really appreciate your work. We are looking for reviewers, would you like to review Longer's 3D printer & laser engraver?
When you put the hot side in, push it all the way down. Then tighten that last one. It pushes the tube down.
Hey, ive only been printing for about 2 months and have soaked up a lot of information regarding better printing which includes information from your channel. I noticed that when you put your tube back in, you didn't heat your up or back out your print nozzel before seating PTFE in hot end. Also try backing out the extruder colar 1 turn before seating the tube, then tighten.
That is interesting, I've not heard of that technique before. The idea is to make sure of a 100% perfect fit inside the hotend?
@@NeedItMakeIt yes, you want as tight a fit as possible. I always heat my hot end when chaging nozzles or PTFE tube and push tube in before tightening fully.
@@NeedItMakeIt i should also mention i am using the dual gear extruder
@@BedstuyDude I've had my eye on one, what are your thoughts on it? Any improvement or problems with it? Also can you provide the link if you have a chance.
@@NeedItMakeIt works great, i dont get any slipage and can adjust the tention. if you get it, you will need to calculate and update the e-steps
I see you didn't try putting the cable for the hot end in the little clip attached to the side of the extruder. It would relieve a lot of strain on the bowden tube.
It seems poorly designed, the cable with sleeve is not the correct size to fit. It almost seems as though it was designed for a different purpose. I suppose I could use a zip tie to suspend it better
Thanks,
New to 3D printing. Why not use barb fittings? After setting the initial connection this will not move. Chamfer the fitting ID to eliminate a point of filament dragging on a sharp edge. Thoughts?
I think a barbed fitting could work, the issue is that these tubes are very hard, pressing it on by hand wouldn't likely work too well. A tool similar to what PEX uses would work well and it would be a great connection.
Iv'e swapped fittings many times, along with the tube due to this problem. I found that the design itself is the issue. The bowden tube (even capricorn) just won't hold up forever and the fittings teeth will dig in to it and create slack. After a couple of years with this problem i converted my ender 3 v2 to direct drive...
I think that's a wise decision, you're right, buying the DD kit will pay off, less hassle, better prints less fussing with retraction. The speed really isn't much of a problem anyway since the bed weighs considerably more. I'm working towards this as well, buy I'm building some with the clockwork2 mechanism.
great video, thank you.
i see you also have the mark on the outside at curves/circles what i have too on some prints. how can i eliminate this? don't find something useful :/
It will be hard to remove completely with the Bowden setup, a direct drive will be more responsive. You'll have to dial in the retraction for your printer and your filament, minimize the moisture in your filament, print with a smaller nozzle size and also layer height helps to hide these bumps. Generally the best way to avoid the look of this seam is to make sure it is aligned with a corner on your part.
I didn't even know there was a seam when I was using my direct drive printer, with the Bowden setup, and the 0.6 nozzle it is quite visible.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I hope it helped.
Do you recommend the Luter fitting but the capricorn tube? Or just capricorn all together?
After using this tube for quite a few prints, I can see that it could cause some problems, it is a really snug fit, so I'd recommend the capricorn to avoid the problem, the fitting with this kit was fine, there are many tiny teeth that do a much better job than the stock fitting. I will make a follow up video on a better solution for a fitting... so busy at the moment I haven't had a chance to get back to it yet.
@@NeedItMakeIt thingiverse has a compression fitting for bowden tube. 👍 i am pretty sure that this is the cheapest solution, and functional. Someone else came to the; (3piece compression) as the solution.
thanks thingiverse!
I always replace the quick release fittings with compression ring fittings, No movement at all
Hi, I dont know if this will fix the issue but did you try to use compression fittings? Like the bike disk brake ones? That maybe will solve the solution or cause another problem... idk
I had been looking but didn't really find anything that would allow the tube to slip over easily, this tube is pretty hard and I didn't want to heat it after I learned that it is fairly toxic.
Would a slightly increased inner diameter of the hot end ptfe tube cause issues with more filament being in there then should be?
I believe this would only have an impact at the initial stage of the print and my printer always extrudes up the side of the bed to get the extrusion started. Yesterday I pulled the blue tube out and I was surprised to see that some of it had melted away, it wasn't black like the stock tube, so buy the good one if you ever upgrade!
Last night while trying to print the same part 3 times and I continued to have slippage of the extruder gear for seemingly no reason; I took everything apart and finally I found the problem... the stock plastic pressure arm rotated upward slightly and it was not applying pressure no matter how much spring compression was applied. I've heard people say that the plastic wouldn't last and they were right.
I've ordered this oneamzn.to/37Ta3Ru to get going again, what a pain!
I had the same issue on the Ender 3 Pro I had. I solved it by getting rid of this entire joke of a filament distribution system and going with an E3D Hemera!
I'm looking forward to seeing your solution to this issue; my CR10s Pro has been nibbling on its Capricorn tube since a few weeks after getting it which is over a year and a half now. I've been trimming the end of the tube down and switching out the fitting as they're typically destroyed, tooth-wise, when I'm trying to get them to release the tube. It's a good job the printer came with 2 lengths and the fittings are dirt cheap, although the latter is probably part of the issue.
I'm just looking online for more info for Flubber's solution right now.
This will be my next video, I have a working solution now which is super simple. I've tested it for a few prints now and I can see zero movement, at least my eye can't pick up on any. I'll record some 4K video and zoom in on it to make sure.
I wanted to test it a bit more before making a follow up video so that I can be 100% confident.
Evert time i print something my filament keeps pushing out the tube where the filament needd to go in
Blue is my favorite color but I don't like an opaque Bowden tube.
I wanted to look at black or clear, they do offer them, but they aren't probably the quality of the Capricorn.
great, another part of my printer to be concerned about ;-)
My method of battling this wiggle is to loosen the couplers a turn or two. Then jam the tube nice and tight then clamp those couplers back down and it preloads the teeth in the coupler. After a couple hundred hours of printing i haven't had a wiggle issue
I've heard of this being done, a very good tip for the hotend side. On the extruder side how does this work? The tube does not feed through the fitting, a rotation would not apply any force from what I can see, what is your solution for the tube on this end? Thanks for taking the time!
@@NeedItMakeIt cant do the same per se, but I go with a higher quality coupler like the blue collared connector found in the printer mods "hot end fix kit" and pulling on the release tab while inserting the bowden tube.
Also, double stacking thin "horseshoe" clips or printing a thicker clip that snugly fits under the release tab aids with slop as well
ive got a tevo tornado and unfortunatly am running into probs with it. got a replacement hotend assembly but that fix only lasted a few prints from thingiverse. now the part that actually holds the hotend and extruder housing is loose and the nuts lost there thread so my tool doesnt work trying to figure out how i can fix this plate issue that holds the hotend assembly. any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you
I'd be happy to offer some help, can you send me a photo (needitmakeit@gmail.com) or post one to imgur so I can see?
I really like how calm you explain everything.
In the future I want to print tpu (for flying quadcopters alot of prints need flex) and there for a lot of people print with direct drive. Whould this help anything?
Maybe for the other materials it won't. So just a wild gues here.
Also for cutting the tube ase straight as possible ive seen a kit that includes a special cutter.
Thank you!
I have no experience with TPU myself, it can be done with a bowden from what I have ready, however it would probably be difficult I can imagine that it would be similar to trying to push a rubber band through the tube, so tighter tolerances and some type of lube may be required.
It would be handy to be able to swap out direct drive and bowen as needed, or two machines I guess.
Yes, the kit does normally include a cutter, I don't personally think it is required if you take your time, I suppose some people might be off a few or 20 degrees.
You definitely don't want something flexible for quadcopters... There's a reason most frames are made from carbon fiber. Not only is it light but crazy stiff. You're quad will fly terribly if the motors are constantly flexing the frame
I literally got an ender pro v2 TODAY , It's my first ever 3d printer and i finished building it 3 hours ago, i go to bed, open YT on my phone, and this is the first thing i see. For fucks sake
As far as problems, it is pretty minor, I will mention while you're already upset that the plastic stock extruder may break, some people have reported this, the single gear metal extruder with the M10 bowden fitting works well and is cheap, it will fix the movement of the tube and the extruder in one shot. Happy printing!
Oh, thank you!
Didn't expect a response from an author, but it's nice knowing what to expect
I'm still very new, but I'll try my best here ;)
I have a question if the printer has a sheet of filament under the print is the plate set to low?
I'm not quite sure what that means, I have only needed to use the paper method, if you use filament that will be much too far away. I like to use standard white printer paper, I tear off a piece and adjust so there is a a little bit of friction preventing the paper from sliding out easily. When you adjust the bed sometimes you need to go back to the first corners and re-tune them, leveling the bed can throw off the other corners a tiny amount. I almost never need to level or adjust the bed on this printer, however I make it a point never to move the printer unless I absolutely need to. I did upgrade to the stiffer springs about 2 months ago, I'm sure that helps prevent the knobs from loosening. Alternatively you can still use the current springs and adjust the Z-stop lower to compress the stock sprints a little more. 3dprintingcanada.com/products/official-creality-pressure-heatbed-spring-qty-4
I've had a couple of Ender 3 pro's for about a year now, and this problem keeps coming back. I've done the Capricorn tubing and fittings, but I find that after a few months the slippage returns and the print quality suffers for it. I don't believe these pneumatic fittings weren't meant to be used in applications with internal friction, there needs to be a better design for these.
You are correct, It keeps coming back, and direct drive is that better way.
I've always had this problem with the Creality machines. It is disappointing to see even the newer Ender 5 Pros still having the same problem
@@jvinsnes I don't think it's just the Creality machines. My Tevo has the same problem. They are all using the same pneumatic tube and fittings. I'm not sure what the solution would be (other than direct drive). You would need another option for the fitting and tubing, something specifically designed for the purpose. Maybe a Teflon tube with special end (one piece with the tube) that interlocks with the fitting to absolutely prevent slippage. Those little metal teeth in the fittings just aren't enough. But that would require special tooling and manufacturing and these budget printers are made with off-the-shelf, re-purposed parts.
@@RichardThompsonCA A gardenhose type of design might work. Although, I don't think something like this exist at this size, or for this application
Hi, what is the best method to remove a stuck pneumatic joint. I believe that the threads stripped after my 3rd print and now I can't remove stuck filament. Any suggestions? Thanks
When this happens, I normally have to remove the joint toward the nozzle side to access the filament, make sure everything is up to temp and pull it out that way. When you say threads stripped, do you mean that the filament wore down on the feed gears?
@@NeedItMakeIt Meaning when I use the provided wrench to attempt to unloosen the the joint, it just spins. Usually behavior with a stripped screw. Mind you I'm a noobie
@@bflat32 That's a bit strange, in any case, if that happens, I'd grab a pair of needle nose pliers without teeth to add a slight pulling pressure away from the threaded housing while you attempt to unscrew the nut. Bending a coat hanger method to pull may also work. The issue here is that the hole may be stripped, a replacement part may be needed in either case.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you for your help
@@bflat32 No problem, I hope it works out. If the threads are stripped it may be possible to insert a flattened piece of copper wire inside to keep you going.
Dude, im new to 3d printing...but anything with 2 eyes and a brain can see ALL the BS creality could have fixed when building the ender V2. ive changed the main tube back to the white because of the tolerance being to small to retract when wanting a color change, or even just changeing filiment..the blue tube started becomeing really lose as more color change prints were printed from reefing on the filiment to get it out of the tube, just as you explained..i have been getting strings on pla lately, glad for ir vid thank you.....the main thing i can see, is a BETER extruder gear set up, and the issue u presented here...creality my have the best printer out if these 2 or 3 issues are resolved...should mention i did leave the blue tube in the hot end, that is the only real fix there..
No argument there, you'll see your thoughts echoed in my next video set to release mid-week next week. You're right they are small things mainly. I have been pretty happy with the printer in general and it is leagues better than my previous printer, it would be nice if they made some tweaks, an all metal hotend would be a nice touch, I'd need to experience one myself to know more about the drawbacks, but from a safety standpoint, it makes sense. My next video is about the extruder assembly. You've made some very good points, thank you for the comment.
@@NeedItMakeIt cool beans bro...i just got the dual drive gear from amozon. Not sure if someone makes better ones, but at this point i DONT want to be saying "it works good enough..." but it works..there are a few BS tolerance issues with the threaded screw and the second gear drive i was really unhappy to feel...but, i did buy the cheapest one, didnt look like any differences...set up on e-steps to 100mm.
im SO happy i dont hear the sound of that extuder gear sliping. I have major ocd, so when things sound like they are not working properly, its not worth the dirt on my shoe to continue untill......drove me up the wall...i cant see any difference in print yet, but at least i know i can shove filiment out the hole at intended force...
My Bowden tube kept coming off, and that's how I got here. I would never have figured it was wearing away...
ngl didnt even know bowden tube did that after time. i just fixed it and it seems my printer works lots better.
As the extruder is only pushing and pulling on the filament only... not sure why the bowden tube moving a bit at the extractor end would have any effect. As it shouldn't change the amount the extractor is moving the filament... the tube is only moving with the filament.
The overall material extruded is the same, it relates more to the proper placement of the extruded material. By removing the slop in the system, the material extruded is stopped and started closer to the expected position. Basically the printer is more responsive. Example, when extruding, it need only push the filament to begin extruding, prior to a correction, a push to remove the slop and further push to extrude. Similar concept to backlash. Thoughts?
I actually superglued that, there is no movement any more haha
I was discussing this solution with a viewer just the other day, we thought maybe it wouldn't bond well to the Teflon tube. Did you use sandpaper on it? Did you use the stock fitting? Thanks!
@@NeedItMakeIt yes i used gasoline to get of all the bad stuff and then sandpaper. Also the standard fitting. The first superglue didnt work for me so i tried one fron another company, and that one did work in the end, just try them all out
my thought as well. Not an expensive fitting to have a drawer full.
@@NeedItMakeIt i use neoprene contact glue, it bound to everything i've tried, aluminium without sandpaper, nylon, nitro rc car fuel tank, i use "perfax neoplus contact neoprene" idk if you can have it in other countries, i live in france.
So maybe it will work, i will test it with my ender 3 v2 in some days when i will have it. And sorry for my bad english, you know why.
Question: why can’t we just scratch the PTFE slightly and use epoxy, UV glue or superglue to just fix it in place?
That's funny, I was thinking the same thing yesterday as well. Before I made the video I did pull up some info about this material and there really aren't that many adhesives that will bond to this (teflon) there are specialty glues, so it is possible, it would just be costly unless you bought in bulk. Super glue is brittle so it might not last with any movement, but a slightly flexible adhesive might work one you etch the surface. It is a pretty good idea, I still think the best solution is a different fitting right from the manufacturer. a compression style, or a toothed water-tight type fitting would also work, it really is just a matter of getting the dimensions right, the part is pretty small. Once I have a moment, I'll get back on this with a 100% solution with no possible movement (that's the goal anyway). Apparently there are automotive fittings that do just this and they have to last.
I wonder if we could apply the same techniques used for PEX to this setup, it is very simple, it would require cutting a small chunk of the tube to use as a ring to expand and then it will shrink back and create a very tight connection.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you so much for taking the time out to reply and for the appreciation. Mine slipped out mid print for the first time last week and I was able to get it back in using the replacement blue clip but you’re right, this needs a better solution from the manufacturer. However, until that happens, we makers gotta make! Here’s another crazy idea: how about wrapping thin Teflon tape (the kind used in sanitary fittings) around the end of the PTFE tube and then sliding it in? That thing has a subtle rubber like grip and is thin enough to provide fit, flexibility of movement while not compromising the tiny affordances we’re working with.
Yes, this is a possibility for sure, does teflon stick to teflon? I like your solutions.
@@NeedItMakeIt haha thank you, great minds think alike! Would be great to connect in real life but I’m all the over from Pakistan! Currently researching if Teflon tape will stick to PTFE but nothings come up. My guess is, because of the low cost of trying this out it’s still worth a shot because while the Teflon tape doesn’t stick to itself but when wrapped around itself the tension makes it sort of create a slippery, rubbery layer, more so because of the texture of the Teflon in a tape thin film like format.
Also, I found this on the 3M site just now. My earlier guess was right:
“Silicone PSA is an option for bonding to PTFE, however etched PTFE (EPTFE) is a better choice for adhesive bonding. The etching process modifies the surface to promote adhesion. Silicone Pressure Sensitive Adhesives like products 91022 (adhesive transfer tape) and 96042 (double coated tape) are designed for high temperature exposure and low surface energy bonding, including PTFE.”
I always suspected that little thing but always chose to live with it because I have a lot to do to waste time investigated, it appears my suspicion is confirmed
It seems to be a fairly common issue, most recently a viewer suggested that the Pruisa Mini has a different style which acts as a compression fitting to prevent this problem. It looks live I've been able to solve the problem as well by drilling a through hole in the fitting and flaring the end of the tube slightly on the other side. The flared end of the tube now seats against the bottom of the threaded hole so it cannot move. This idea is a similar concept to connections used for automotive brake lines. It does have a definite impact, I have a super clean print.
What about a wedge clip
Hi my filament got stuck on the extruder wherein it's solid and seems like hard glued on it I can't remove using small needles either.
In the hotend? If that has happened, you need to heat up the nozzle, remove the bowden tube and work it out from there or cut away the portion causing you trouble and reinsert. They are pretty cheap you can also replace completely.
@@NeedItMakeIt it's stuck in the screw thing so I soldered it and destroyed the parts with the blue hook. But yea I just ordered new one with better quality. Thanks.
I'm going to try this with shrink tube. One on the ptfe tube and another that can shrink on the connector to the tube.
I tried shrink tube and had no success at all, it would slide right along, I even heat shrunk several layers as well to all the tube to then go right over the fitting. Did not work in the least, it didn't have any grip on the tube.
@@NeedItMakeIt thats good to know. Thank you. I was thinking of trying marine shrink tube, but it might leave gunk on the fitting.
I’ve never had any issues using the blue tubing, heating it deforms it.