Creality Ender 3 V2 - Simple Tips for Super Clean 3D Prints
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 เม.ย. 2024
- Are you struggling to get the right settings for your 3D prints? If you have stringing, blobs and other irregularities this video will show you the simplest methods along with a few other useful tips which can take your prints to the next level.
If you'd like to become a patron to help this channel grow and get involved with future video ideas, here is the link: / needitmakeit
Recently I've also discovered a feature within Cura which gives your printer the ability to print multiple parts at once all while keeping your prints looking great with no added time.
For reference, I like to keep my printer as close to stock as possible. I have had problems with the extruder side Bowden fitting and have replaced the tube and the fitting as well. That is covered in a separate video. I've also upgraded to stiffer bed springs to apply a little more pressure on the leveling knobs in hopes to not have to re-level the bed (so far so good).
As mentioned in the video, here are the important settings for each test:
Printed on glass build plate with dollar store glue stick
All prints with 0.6mm nozzle
I use this glass amzn.to/2KyLCjO after my original glass had a chunk removed
Test #1
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.16mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing Off, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 8%, Seams Manually Aligned
Test #2
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.16mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Manually Aligned
Test #3
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.1mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Random
Test #4
Red PETG
Layer Height 0.2mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Random
Test #5
Black Carbon Fiber PETG
Layer Height 0.16mm, Wall Lines 4, Bottom Layers 5, Top Layers 6, Pattern Zig Zag, Infill 35% Cubic, 225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 55mm Top/Btm, 45mm Initial Layer, 4mm Retraction, Combing On, Print All At Once, Cooling Fan 100%, Seams Manually Aligned
It can take up to 2 weeks and 40 hours to make a short video like this, If you would like to support the channel, these are affiliate links, I receive a small % of the sale.
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I mention Octoprint and Spaghetti detective in the video because it is one of the best additions to my 3D printer yet, I do not check on my prints anymore, if I want to see the progress, I just check the app. If you print any type of production volume I can definitely recommend this, if you only print a little bit, it is nice to have, but not a necessity.
If you are struggling with problems and you need help, send me an email or write in the comments.
#ender3
#3dprinting
#Problemsolving - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Simple models always print very clear.
I would agree that simple models will generally show better results
The test samples shown in the video clearly show the differences in the techniques used.
@@bikerboy3k no need to make a rude comment, he is simply stating that it shows the difference each setting makes...... thats not defensive at all its simply stating the entire goal of the video.
@@bikerboy3k You are right, as stated in my response. Time to move on, have a good hoiday!
That is true, but this video is educational and if high quality. I have learn something.
@@kundeleczek1 learned* 🙂
In the intro, he slipped that pre printed support in so fast and smooth I almost didn't even notice... well done sir.
I haven't used that trick in quite a while, but it's a pretty cool way to get a smooth bridge, especially if you have repeatable parts to make it worth the time to do. A little tape on top and some glue stick for good measure since the surface is only at room temp.
_"Print one part at a time"_ simple tips but how am I not realizing it. Thank you for mentioning this tips
My pleasure, we'd all like to load up the build plate, in order to do that everything needs to be perfect to get great results. for the rest of us, these tips help a bit.
@@NeedItMakeIt Do you have a profile available for Cura?
@@oneheadlight8000 drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Try this, it is set for PETG with minimal fan, you can adapt as needed.
@@NeedItMakeIt thank you! I print pretty much exclusively PETG.. around 120 spools of it last year. We just bought 3 ender 3 v2’s and are dialing them in. Your prints look noice!
@@oneheadlight8000 Nice stuff, three wow. Having a few of the same printer makes a lot of sense for replacement parts and repair, interchangeability and the list goes on. Very smart.
Do you have to dry your material before you begin printing with it, how do you handle the moisture absorption, or is it a non-issue for your parts?
Congrats on the layer consistency. A mixture of a very squarely assembled frame, tight belts, correct V-wheel pressure and many other things are required to achieve this.
👍
The print sequence option on Cura....VERY helpful. I tried it and am hooked. Have to plan out placement of parts to prevent the gantry from hitting it but otherwise, very helpful. Thanks very much for posting this. Made a huge difference!
I've thought about other ways to improve this, printing with PLA and ABS seem to be very forgiving with stringing compared to PETG. I've just downloaded the newest version of CURA, super curious to see what is inside that could be helpful.
The way how the light shines onto the prints make them better, too.
I do this as well as adjusting the retraction speed and distance for the type of filament I am using. This allows me to print multiple prints without messy cleanup. The blobbing effect is what happens when the filament pools up in the nozzle the pressure causes it to push out as it leaves the part to go the next part. There is also the stringing effect people get. The combing setting and z hop will help eliminate this. I get very little if almost like slight spider web like whisp of string at the most now, nothing a swipe from my small butane torch doesn't eliminate in a poof, gone. Even a good heat gun would do the job. No blobs and all calibrations set. With all of that you can really dial in a printer to go above the bar of what they do out of the box. With a little tweaking that is. 😁👍 Good video!
Drying your filament will also help A LOT. Even with PLA!
If you don't dry your PETG or PLA, it will usually ooze out of the nozzle, even when there's no pressure applied by the extruder. This leads to those blobs shown at 5:00.
Keeping it dry (max. 10% humidity), there won't be any oozing.
Thank you for the information. Which brand of the dryer do you recommend?
@@uhu4677 I'm staking the gel I get from shoes and wherever I find some. I don't have any air-tight box so I'm just using zip bags and placing it on a dry place
this has been driving me crazy, thank you.
Great tip! I'm new to this world and I should have paid more attention to this to start with. Just got my dry box set up and lots of dessicant.
Wouldn't throwing them in a box with silica beads do the same thing?
If you want less visible random z-seams, you can also enable coasting, which turns of the filament feed while near the z-seam.
My man, I thought I was crazy, or it was just my setup. I tried printing 6 parts I had customized, all came out crap, thought it was my settings and .8m nozzle. Just for a test did them on their own, and all came out beautiful. Thank you for the sanity check.
been there done that
I am popping in to say thank you for all your content. It is very helpful. Keep up the great work as it is inspiration for others like me.
I’m late to the game as usual. I am about 4 days into 3D printing and love it so far. I’ve had my failures, but several success as well. I’ve got octopi going and my first time lapse after getting my camera mount printed. This first time lapse is an 11 hour build on the Ender 3 V2.
I say all that to again let you know you have me interested in content creation and helping others as I learn. Hopefully I can provide others with a little help and inspiration as you have me. Thank you!
I also recommend the channel called Maker's Muse. Angus has a good deal of content to help you get started.
Thank You for the detailed information and visual comparison test prints. Greatly appreciated ! Subscribed !
You're very welcome, more to come with better audio as well.
@@NeedItMakeIt Subbed too because i see the dedication and time used to make this video short (for us, viewers) and clear, but still very detailed.
Only 2 things i've seen that were kinda wrong :
the butter part, i'm new to 3D printing and it really confused me, but it got clearer by reading the comments about it and your answers(maybe put a caption or a small addition to the description about "don't do that, i just love butter"),
and the binary @ 8:04, you wrote 00110101 and i believe you meant 0110 *0* 101 ("5" instead of "e")
I need to try those since I just got My Ender 3 V2 last week & I’m new to 3D printing in general.
Thanks for sharing the wealth! Much appreciated, will pass forward
I almost lost it at the butter
I had to rewind and check that it was butter 😁
Salted. On sale also!
@@NeedItMakeIt wtf
I am a newbie and went out researching if that was something we need to do!
@@mrpbjnance Oh sorry, I like to integrate butter into my videos. There may be a way to use it, if we separate the milk solids from the fats and apply just the solids they may work fairly well as a binder. Best just to use glue stick though. On the other hand the clarified butter can be very tasty and doesn't burn in the pan....
I also make cast iron pan test videos, and I love butter.
I noticed just turning down the nozzle temp helped a lot for me. As long as you have dry filament and your esteps are good you should be good. I use to print super hot right at 220 for PLA. 210-215 helped give me super smooth prints.
Oh wow, i think mine uses 190 for pla
@@shabadooshabadoo4918yea I use 200 and 60 for bed
2:50 No Name butter … hello fellow Canadian! 🇨🇦 😎
Thanks for the "Print Sequence" tip! I was on my way to make a python script just to create a single .gcode from individual parts .gcode files. Nice to learn that!
I have a cheat for printing taller prints also, but it is a bit risky, I'll test it out a bit more before making a video. It involves lowering the hotend and choosing a volcano type hotend also which further drops the hotend down. But there is one more tip that can help but I think it is risky business.
You mentioned that you coved combing in another video. Just a tip, always put a link to any video you reference in your description. It makes it soo much easier to find.
Thanks so much for this video, ive had multiple issues with just one roll of red filament, turned on combing and one at a time and suddenly my prints are flawless, brilliant :)
No problem, lots more videos like this to come and some other really cool and unique ideas also. I was hoping that some of these tips could help!
How do you turn on combing? I'm using a ender 3v2 and creality slicer
Hi David, Sorry I use Cura, but assume there is a setting in the Creality slicer somewhere @@davidhogue100
Print wall order and retraction/prime settings are another good place to look to for improving quality.
Can you explain further please if you have time!? Thanks!! I need some help lol
I really appreciate your work on your videos ❤
thankyou for this! ive been struggling and the comments are super useful aswel :D
Is there anything in particular you're having the most trouble with?
For very small parts it is often better to print multiple of them. There is a minimum time per layer or the print doesn't cool enough and pausing between (set your minimum layer time to around 10s) introduces blobs.
If only I had an hi-def IR camera, we'd really be able to dive into this more.
Or fix your cooling fans to actually work.....
Just on time man thank you 👍 i stuggled with this stuff today
Try printing outer walls first in the Cura settings. It depends on the geometry of the part but it can help (not for overhangs).
I will try that, thanks for the tip. Not for overhangs because it loses the added bond to plastic adjacent to it?
@@NeedItMakeIt Correct.
I’ve had a lot of luck with scotch brand blue tape. You can print PETG on it with a 0 degree bed so it saves energy. Sticks really well and can be used several times before replacing it.
0090000
*B U T T E R*
Petg can warp, a heated bed is not just for first layer adhesion. If it were, you'd only have to turn it off after the first layer.
@@alejandroperez5368 I’m saying on blue tape you can print with 0 degree bed with PETG all the way through. No need to turn on the bed if you have the right model.. some require 65 degrees with glue stick, hair spray or blue tape if the model doesn’t have a lot of surface contact. I have never used a brim with PETG in over 300,000 hours of printing
@@oneheadlight8000 you have 34 years of printing experience? LOL.
I had to give a like just because of the work you put in for the buttered build plate B-roll
Thank you! I would like to add more humor in my vids, but it seems people take them seriously...
combing is gonna be a big help! Thanks
I used to use Print One at a Time, but in a previous version of Cura, they changed how it determined the order to do the models (random selection of the models). After having just played with it, it appears they restored the previous ordering (last model loaded prints first).
With the last in/first out ordering, you can arrange the models front to back and you don't have to worry about collisions. You can print any size model by tweaking your carriage settings.
When doing multiple parts, I prefer One at a Time (POAT?) for the exact reasons you covered. Also, if you have a failure, you don't immediately lose an entire bed worth of prints.
Is there any way to import 2 or 3 stl and know their order? Or importing 1 at a time is needed? Cheers
Great info! I've been printing for a few months and am definitely a noob. I'll be using some of these things
I've been printing for a few years now and I still feel new somedays, there is a lot more to know than one might thing looking from the outside. Thank you for the comment and support!
Your prints are basically perfect!
Thanks for the tips! New to the space, and I got carried away packing as many things onto my plate as I could. Heh. I wanted to throw an idea out there: I think the 'print one at a time' feature would work for taller pieces if you line the pieces up instead of distributing them. If done in the correct direction this eliminates risk of collision with crossbar and allow taller objects to be printed using this setting. (I have an Ender 3- other gantries setups might differ.)
One single object can pose the same challenges as multiple objects.
Like for example the tips of a crown.
Printing slower and not too hot always help me for improve the quality of my prints
Very true, slower usually yields better results. Many of my prints are for customers and I don't always have time to wait so I've brainwashed myself to thinking everyone needs to print fast. I suppose that could make for a good comparison even for my own knowledge.
How slow is too slow? I would assume at some point it will not produce a better quality.
@@NeedItMakeIt if the print have steep overhangs the slow speeds sometimes work against you. The heat of the nozzle dont let time to cooldown the overhang and make things worse. Sometimes i add a second part if what im printing is too small. Sorry for may bad english, is not my first language
Just discovered your channel.. Very cool tips all around Tks..
Your print quality is very good overall.. Would you mind sharing your cura print profiles to take a general look (and maybe copy parts of it)?I use a standard .4 nozzle, but might move to .6 after you show your results.. (mostly focused on practical prints myself, not figurines and such)
Also, always wondering what needs to change and what not as I switch between different materials (PETG, PLA, TPU, Nylon) and different layer heights.. Maybe an idea for a video..
Thanks a lot for sharing the knowledge.
My pleasure.
The butter failed in my testing. The print would dislodge from the plate, and fly across the room. It wasn't until I came across your video that I should have used salted butter. If I only would have known sooner.
Yes, and only use the best quality butter. I like to churn mine a few hours before I need it so I know it's fresh :)
@@BlondieSL Yeah, it's a joke. In case you're wondering, any type of grease is *going to ruin your first layer.* The print will simply not stick.
@Brax W Before you make the obligatory, overused reddit joke, maybe you should take into account that I was replying to someone else's comment. It appears that comment doesn't exist anymore, but my reply still stands. In case someone doesn't get the joke, yes grease will prevent the print from sticking. Now that we got that cleared up, this matter is in my opinion resolved.
@@PunakiviAddikti thanks for telling me, too many people are saying to use grease, it's confusing to a complete beginner
@@hank1845 You're welcome I guess. If you need bed adhesion, use a heated bed at 60 degrees for first layer and drop down to 50 degrees for the rest to help avoid warping. Hair spray is a good adhesion agent.
Brilliant, thank you, subscribed!
Here's another tip I only started doing recently:
If you use a newer build of Cura with a Creality printer (maybe others as well), your nozzle does a purge line on the corner of the bed. It's probably 10cm long. Adjust the start gcode so it's only 5cm - all it's doing is priming the nozzle. Now, since that's getting your nozzle primed, you don't need to print a skirt anymore around the perimeter of the print, so go ahead and set the build plate adhesion to "None" (assuming your prints typically stick to the bed reliably after printing skirts). This knocks a small amount of time and material use off of your prints, which adds up over time. This is especially important if you want to operate a 3D printing business, because lean is the name of the game for that.
For sure, the main reason that I leave a brim or skirt on is to make sure the previous filament is purged out properly from the nozzle. It isn't too professional to have a mix on that first layer only to find out when the print is finished.
Valid points though, thanks!
Skirts are necessary for first layer Z-offset calibration at the start of each print. Something you will most likely have to deal with on cheap 3D printers and considerably large prints.
That's too tiny to even care. And a skirt should always be used, no exceptions.
@@Ibian666 why is a skirt so necessary?
@@haqeeqee Primes the flow.
I get my best petg results using 255c on the nozzle and 25% fan and a flow rate 95% also slow down the retract and advance speeds 25mm/s this seems to help with blobbing somewhat. also make sure its printing perimeters FIRST then infill and not its default of infill first then perimeters.
Why perimeters before infill?
@@bc4ke a couple of reasons first when the plastic hardens it doesn't exactly push out of the way so when you print infill first and then the perimeter the infield pushes the perimeter out where it intersects this is why you sometimes see the infield stick out on models people print
Second the inflow intersects the perimeters and you want them to for strength it helps to build proper info when it touches the perimeter outside edge of the model but if you're printing a button fill first there's no Edge to attach to yet I can't think of a single good reason to print infill first
Nice video, very informative.
Just starting out in 3D Printing. ( as of this comment 😁)
Mostly to Try and get my 11 Year Old Son doing something else with his Tablet than playing games 🙄
He has Good skills for drawing, so I see, 3D Printing as the next level to developing his hobby to another level.
Great to see so much information like this available here on TH-cam.
Of course Subscribed.
Looking forward to learning how to speak another language 😉👍
That one with the last settings looks good. Myself I havent printed anything anymore. Still stuck with the bl touch. Last testing today.. After that I can only say the sensor itself came broke from start.
The videos look better every upload.
It shows the effort that has gone in em!
That's disappointing, I don't know whether I'll ever need the BL touch, I rarely level the bed with this printer. I did upgrade the springs because the stock ones were very weak and could promote the knobs from loosening though.
Good luck!
Thank you for the compliment, and yes it is a fair amount of work. My hope is that I get better at it so it doesn't take as long. I have a list for the next 10 of so videos, so I'll be busy for a while.
Rik, if you need a hand, I got mine working after some trouble. Your name makes me think that you're Dutch, so you could give me a call if it doesn't work out.
@@DHGV klopt inderdaad, ik heb hem nu werkend. 123-3d .nl heeft mij geholpen via de mail. Er is schijnbaar een 4.2.2. Moederboard firmware waar duidelijk bij staat 4.2.2. Bl touch zonder adapter. Vanaf dat deze erop staat doet hij het goed (de bl touch)
Maar vanaf dat ik de printer verplaatst heb en zo vaak op zijn kant maakt hij nu een vreemd geluid op de y as. En kwam er gister achter tijdens de excintric nuts onder het bed aandraaien dat als ik het bed van voor naar achter duw. En hier goed oplet voel ik een kleine verhoging in het bed achterin. Maar kan niets vinden bij de wieltjes of de rails. Twijfel om hem nu deels uit elkaar te halen en weer opnieuw te assembleren.
@@TriMeX1987 Mooi dat dat werkt. Wat je beschrijft op de Y-as herken ik niet, maar klinkt alsof een van de wieltjes niet helemaal gelijkmatig is afgesleten. Het kan ook zijn dat het te maken heeft met je Y-riem. Staat die te strak gespannen, of te los, zit hij goed op de geleiders? Is hij beschadigt? Dat kan er zeker voor zorgen dat je iets voelt in die beweging.
@@DHGV de ender 3 is praktidch nieuw. Heb nog geen volledige rol filament geprint.
Ik had op de z as wel wieltjes beschadigd. Voelde ik ook en direct nieuwe wieltjes erop gezet.
Het lijkst als je de plaat helemaal naar achter duwd dat hij ergens overheen omhoog rijd..en net ervoor een dipje.. in dit dipje kon ik het bed ook licht bewegen. Daarna excentric nut weer beetje vaster gezet kijken of dat hielp. Maar voor alsnog niet.
Hij maakt ook een raar geluid bij auto home op een lage snelheid hoor je het niet. Maar hier wel.
Hi! I'm always amazed and thankful for your tips and tricks. It really helps me as I have E3v2 also. Is it okay to ask for your printing profiles? Thanks!
drive.google.com/file/d/1TO6z8dptLZOI2y_eBmG_m4exzY3lLtRi/view?usp=sharing Sure, I'm onto PETG printing now, here is the most recently profile, hope the link works.
@@NeedItMakeIt thanks mate! ^_^ really appreciate.
thanks for the tips and advice
Have you tried just using outer wall wipe distance instead of going through the trouble of printing one at a time and dealing with those limitations?
Awesome tips! Thanks!
th-cam.com/video/3thCNTS0i4o/w-d-xo.html
I print one at a time, 90% of the time, great tips
Good stuff! I mostly print for sale, it is important to have the nicest looking prints possible and this seems to be the best way I've found under the constraints. I'm still tuning the printer a little and I'm looking at whether belt tension, better pulleys and belts will also help. The stock belts look pretty good to my eye.
For prints with lots of surface details, like D&D minis, set the Outer Wall Inset to 0.05 and the layer height to 0.12. The small details will come out much better.
Very nice video I have learned a lot thank you, I am new for 3D printing, I have a same 3D printer I am trying to design a small gear for my old SONY walkman it requires a very strong gear to handling a large torque from the motor, could you please provide the correct settings for the ENDER-3 printer? I am using PLA.
Great video, keep up the good work :)
Thank you so much, I appreciate that you took the time to leave a comment.
A video on how to get that soft seam on circular objects would be awesome. I’m troubleshooting on mine but still it dips in too much. would really appreciate some help. (using MS DD and all metal hotend)
enable retraction in your slicer settings (retraction in cura, maybe called something else in your software of choice). It pulls the filament back from the nozzle and generally does a really nice job of eliminating blobs and other defects where the nozzle stops for a second before changing direction. I have mine set to 7mm retraction length and my surface finish is usually near perfect. Unless I do what I did an hour ago and let my printer run out of filament. Whoops.
@@markcoats960 nah, he's talking about circular objects. There's no way to hide it there
Thx for the interesting video.
Just one sidenote: IME PETG prints just fine without (or with very little) cooling. With some filament brands cooling might even introduce all kinds of problems like layer separation, etc. I always tone down my cooling whenever I deal with PETG to maybe 1/3 of what I would use with PLA.
Thank you, 1 more coming up real soon, this one is pretty cool IMHO.
I agree, I always try to print with the cooling as low as possible most of my work is load bearing and I'd like to be confident that the layers have adhered well. I will be doing some testing in future for this specifically across many different types of filaments at different amounts of cooling that will take some time to get setup for.
Thanks for the comment!
@@NeedItMakeIt You're welcome! Keep up the good work!
@@NeedItMakeIt btw: congratulations for reaching 10K subscribers!
@@theinternal Hey thanks a lot, I can't believe how quickly things went from 1000 to 10,000.
@@NeedItMakeIt if you keep up the good work, you'll get to 100K in no time.
Usually it's harder to get from 1K to 10K than from 10K to 100K. Mind my words and thank me later... ;)
Great video, thanks for posting. Question, how are you getting it to email you once the print is finished?
He uses octoprint software on a raspberry pi 👍
8:25 ... you can improve that blobbing. It is doing that because it writes a checkpoint to the SD Card it reads from in case of a power failure, so it can resume printing. If it can't write fast enough the buffer will run out and cause a split second delay and the extruder will keep extruding and leave a blob. Either A.) use a SD Card with faster transfer speed or B.) disable resume printing after power failure so it doesn't try to write the checkpoint file.
Thanks for sharing. Could you test PETG printing with tree support? Because I can get good result without support, but with support it’s a mess with lots of stringing. I print mechanic parts.
Hi, I can throw a test together, are you able to link a photo, or send a photo to needitmakeit@gmail.com
Would it be possible to add a bit of print to the area where the seams need to be so that you can sand them off and it will be smooth
yeah my prints do a weird bumpy at the bottom sometimes. only in spiralize surface mode though
You can do z-hop to jump between travels so it won’t drag nozzle across the surface
Yes, I always have z hop turned on, though I haven't played with the height setting and with wear on the nut, it will lose accuracy over time.
Great video again bro 👊
most important step to getting good results is buttering up your print plate 😳
What adhesive do you use
@@sachinsaravanan3664 3DLAC
"Nelly" works really good.
I use Land o Lakes 😏 lol but really, I actually use a decent hair spray on my creality glass bed printing Petg. Works better for me then any adhesive marketed to the 3D printing world that I’ve tried, just a light layer and your golden for a while, then if you notice any issues, clean plate with alcohol then respray, I might have to do that once a month with moderate usage.
@@marv8481 Here in Spain we use the hairspray "Nelly".
It is very good and it takes very little for the PLA or ABS to be sinked into the glass of the bed.
No need to heat the bed at all.
A bottle of lacquer Nelly costs about € 3 or about $ 4 and I can print several kg of filament with it since they are big.
The same brand produces a lacquer for 3D printers, which is exactly the same formula, but without the smell of lacker, and costs 5 times more.
So I advise you to use Nelly hair lacquer instead of another lacker or system, im pretty sure it can even be bought on Amazon.
To remove the printed part in PLA or ABS from the glass, you can put the glass in the freezer 10 minutes also.
Bro, those print qualities are cleaner than my room!
Not too bad for a printer of that generation. I'm seeing even better results these days with the faster printers, especially with PETG. The fast moves help to prevent blobbing quite well.
@@NeedItMakeIt oh that's cool, so the fastness, the speed itself actually helps prevent a few problems
@@zac2877 The travel speed was one of the biggest issues, with the newer printers, acceleration and travel are much faster, fast enough that I don't notice blobbing unless the parts are set quite far apart from each other. It's a nice little bonus that I wasn't expecting. It's mostly a problem with PETG, but does happen with PLA as well, just not as much.
Fuzzy option in cura hides the layers and you can make prints look very professional
best lower jerk and acceleration settings too
Could you provide the settings you use for this. I'd like to investigate this further. Also do you use linear advance?
@@NeedItMakeIt I don't know what linear advance is, I suppose it can't be found in Cura? As for my settings, I've been slowly dialing them in as I've started printing and so far I've seen increasing initial layer flow to 110-120% helps along with decreasing acceleration of the first layer to 100mm/s and jerk to 2. The initial layer speed is 15mm/s but speeds up greatly after that.
Here, I'll just upload my profiles if you want to take a deeper look, I've customized many settings but I don't claim that they are perfect, I'll update them as I keep printing. drive.google.com/folderview?id=1lqlHvzxJnhggHqpEbnP2ZZp-eggMwnLS
I've not used random seams since I tried it the first time. It simply introduces very visible surface defects. Took me a while to figure out what was causing these surface defects, but once I did and switched to one seam, all of the defects were gone. Second issue is *random filament stuck to the nozzle.* This will absolutely ruin your print surface once it detaches and gets incorporated into the print. Always get these off.
Hi, can u explain what Setting you chose ?
@@gauthiermax8280 I simply turned off random seam and chose the seam placement to be sharpest corner and random location. Random location is different from random seam. I also tried arc welder which converts multiple points into uniform arcs. This limits the amount of "stops" the nozzle makes when it moves from point to point. Depending on the motherboard, it may cause a very slight pause at each point and some material oozes out, forming a blob.
@@PunakiviAddikti hi can you help me wher to find this? (225C Nozzle, 75C Bed, 78mm Infill, 37mm Outer Wall, 57mm Inner Wall, 45mm Initial Layer) i don't know where to find this it is because im literally newbie on this 3d printing. please help me.
@@daniellejunio1810 There are plenty of 3D printers that can do 225C on the nozzle and 75C on the bed. Infill, outer wall, inner wall and initial layer are controlled by the slicer software.
Matching you're jerk settings to you're speeds and using acceleration when needed helps a little especially with corners with over 50° angles edges
YOUR!
ok, I was like bruh why you puttin butter on there
Nice! I see you have a Ender 3 V2, what board you have on it and what firmware version you using? is a default hotend or Micro Swiss?
Like the tip about forcing travels to occur at unseen sides. Thanks. And is that bed-mounted camera holder downloadable somewhere? What cam? The time lapses are great.
For sure, it's something I use when I'm in a bind and I need to print a few larger parts but don't have the time to do them separately.
The camera mount is in a video I made, the link should be there as well to the thingiverse file. th-cam.com/video/A5Ac-sB5jIY/w-d-xo.html. I like this mount, it gives a really good angle for finding problems. Just make sure you have lots of light.
The specs of my hardware should be in the video and description as well. Not very expensive and there are lots of benefits to viewing your prints from anywhere using Spaghetti detective with Octoprint.
@@NeedItMakeIt I think he should say thank you for this detailed answer :)
@@kezman82a I have a new camera video coming out soon, keep an eye out for it, this one is pretty unique and a much better option for people wanting to keep an eye on their prints... in detail
Very nice quality videos, good job!
Cura 4.8 has a z seam hiding option. Using smart hiding will eliminate the seam on the outer skin.
I've have tried this feature, but I've not found that it works well for my parts. It looks for sharp corners to place the seams so they are less visible, my parts don't have corners unfortunately, but it could be useful for some people.
@@NeedItMakeIt Yes, it only works best with corners. Even then it can be easily noticeable. I wish there was an option for wipe hiding. Basically, the outer perimeter would start slightly in the infill and move outwards or inwards depending on the perimeter being printed. This would eliminate blobs at the start of the perimeter. It's basically nozzle wiping but in reverse.
Great tips. I’d like to know more about precision. My “5mm” shaft holes came up 4.5mm in reality.
For holes, there is also one more factor, they'll have a seam, that seam can sometimes bulge the holes a bit on one side, making them a bit oblong. A little cut into the model at one side of the hole will force the seam to that side and also push the seam away from the critical side of the hole. I'm glad you found the video helpful!
using combine mode off as if it is on thern the retrations is no on the move on each layer )
At 0:20 you drop a printed disc into a printing part. Was that done to provide support for layers to print on top in the printing part? Did you apply anything to the printed disc to prevent "welding"?
Hi, thanks for sharing. Which precautions can we take to avoid damage 3d printer while printing with carbon fiber?
usually it is better to use direct drive instead of bowden extruder and capricorn tubing - that causes less stress on gears.
use stainless steel, tungsten coated or gem based nozzles for abrasive materials.
even nickel coated nozzle can be damaged in the long run and will lose its features, so cheapest and long term proofed way is stainless steel nozzle (single material, so small surface damage will not reduce overall nozzle's material integrity).
New sub. Why do the program spots to start a new layer? Wouldn't it be better for it to keep going to the next layer in the same motion, especially since your going around in a circle? Like vase mode.
Glad to have you!
I'd have to think very hard about this, but I believe it is not possible. At least not currently possible. In vase mode there is only 1 wall layer, a continuous motion upward is possible except for the bottom and top layers. When printing these normal parts the entire part must be filled in, the nozzle would travel up, then down, and so on until the entire layer(s) is complete. What you may be looking for is called non-planar 3D printing (true 3d printing). I'm sure in a few years we will have the ability to do this at home with some limitations.
Matthew, use the slicer's visualize feature and step through one layer at the time (i.e., super slowly) to see how the print progresses. This is a fantastic feature.
I substituted my usual hairspray for "I can't believe its not butter" and couldn't get the filament to stick. is there a certain type of butter I need to get?
Thank you sir! New subscriber...
Look for the butter with the highest butter content, 100% butter is best. If you can find 110%...even butter :)
Gotta get the one that used to be racist.
Could you do vase mode to eliminate the seams altogether?
nice vid, how do you get rid of seams on round prints? Just starting out and hate to see that line running up one side, thanks
Turn on wall wipe, print with a small nozzle, and thinner layer lines, printing slow also helps with a bowden setup. I'm working on a video to review every possibility for the best solution with this printer.
Do you use the default alu bed that came with Ender? Also do you print PETG only or swap to PLA as well? If yes, how do you deal with bed warping due to different temp settings?
Yes I do, the warpage is mitigated by using 4mm borosilicate glass. I find perfect first layers every print. I level with paper and only about 1 time per month if that. Anytime I move the printer it needs to be adjusted. I print ABS, PLA and PETG, no issues with the temp difference so far. Do you print on glass?
@@NeedItMakeIt yes i use the glass that came with V2 and if the alu bed warps, the bed follows. I shimmed it to near perfect using few strips of aluminum cooking foil
Hi there great video thank you
I just got Ender 7 unfortunately I can’t find UM3 steel nozzle
You think I can print Nylon X
Less than six small parts
Or it’s definitely not recommend it
New here, subbed. What printer is this? Looking to get into this as a helpful hobby
i have a problem with my prints initial layer that sticks to the bed. i always have a hard time of taking that thin first layer off of my prints any advice?
Great tip.... Any experience with metal infused pla?
No but I do with CF PETG and I'm not too much of a fan at the moment, it wears the nozzle and gears super quick. I've ordered a set of hardened dual gears to handle it along with a hardened steel nozzle, so I'll be giving it another go soon. It looks great and it is more stiff so there are some pros.
What are the benefits of the metal infused filament?
Have you tried linear advance? I have been using this technique and I believe it improves the quality of the prints. I can also print as much as 50% faster. I have printed at 100mm/sec with no reduction in the quality of the prints. Retraction can also be reduced. I think I could print even faster, but I think the stepper motors may start skipping steps - I may test this in the future, but overall, I am pleased with it and plan to use it for most if not all of my prints.
I have not, I will check it out for sure. So how do you compensate for the increased flow, higher nozzle temps? Do you find that you have more ghosting or do you have slower outer walls to compensate? Thanks!
@@NeedItMakeIt Linear advance pretty much eliminates all the problems, that's the point of it. When running at 100mm/sec, I did increase the filament temp about 5C. It does take some setting up. There is a program on Github that can help determine what K value to use. K is a dimensionless value that determines the behavior of the linear advance setting. There is an add-on for Cura that allows you to set the K value right in your Cura profile so you do not have to go back to the Marlin firmware to set it.
@@rcort4864 I thought the Ender 3 V2 is not capable of linear advance due to the legacy mode of motherboard and stepper motors? Do you have any link for me with stuff to read how to make this happen?
@@MatthiasBenogen It may not be - IDK. Linear Advance is a part of Marlin firmware, so you must be using Marlin to activate it. Here's a video to get started: th-cam.com/video/c5jjwBqARpo/w-d-xo.html
2:43 why turn combing off, If printing one at a time? Tha k you for this!!
Great video. I’m curious what do you think about convert your E3v2 to direct drive ? Found some projects on thinkgiverse and wondering if it’s worth time and will improve print quality or make more troubles.
I think it is considered by most to be an upgrade. There are quite a few benefits to the direct drive setup, I may also change down the line, I wanted to give Bowden everything I had. The only real downside of direct is print speed, with a sturdy frame like this printer has, it isn't going to be too terrible. I have also looked into the pancake steppers, which may be too light duty, but if they can do the task they'll help as well.
One of the big benefits is to swap filaments in a matter of seconds, the Bowden makes it pretty tough. Personally that is the only thing I miss about my old printer.
It can improve print quality in the sense that retractions and extrusions are handled better by direct drive, you'll likely have less stringing and blobs/surface defects.
I hope that helped!
@@NeedItMakeIt man, it was really helpful. After your comment I will upgrade my printer this week.
@@filipdoniec7231 Let me know what you decide on, I may just go ahead and join you. I was also thinking that I'd setup one printer direct and leave this one as is for a comparison.
@@NeedItMakeIt i will use the old one extrusion motor with everything and just print needed part. i ordered longer cable for motor (old one may be long enough but it’s really cheap) and when arrive i would let you know if theres big diffrence. In PLA i have no problem but currently i’m struggling in print quality with PETG so direct drive may be the answer.
Can I assume that you are aware of Flex3Drive project? Another term used is remote direct extruder.
one big reason for single prints rather than multiple items giving you better quality is cuz the stepper inaccuracy is bascially reduced. if you look at some specs for these steppers they have a +- few microns per turn, but it shows up on prints esp when it has to travel between each parts.
That's a really good point. To add to your point, when traveling turn Z-hop on so you can avoid hitting other parts which can throw things off. Worn belts and gears can impact over time. this printer makes it easy to keep good tension on the belts, my last printer not so good.
Hey bud awesome video. I’m new in this world just ordered the V2. What program do I need to download to be able to make a solid print. I just want to know what I need to do to get started it’s coming in the mail tomorrow. I’m just going to be using the free downloads to start I just want to make sure I use the right one. Thanks for your help.
Would you be interested in doing a training session with me which would then become a video for anyone new?
Yea absolutely dude that would be awesome.
@@jamesp8039 Okay, we'll set something up, can email me at needitmakeit@gmail.com and we can coordinate further from there.
Where is the comb setting? I see in the video its under travel, but for me its not there. We both have the ender 3 v2, but cura doesn't have the v2 model yet, so I just edited the ender 3. Did you select the ender 3 pro?
You will need to activate it first, go to setting visibility and type comb, it should show up. I did pick the ender 3 pro, both should work fine for a starting point.
Hi, wanted to ask you how do you make that first line is printed on right side of the build plate? Thank you before hands
Hi. What kind of butter would you recommend for best layer adhesion? I've had some good results with unsalted Irish butter, but I'm wondering if there are any better options out there.
The fatter the better
May I know what type of printing plate you use? I use the glass that comes with ender3 v2 and it doesn’t stick well
what print speed were you printing at in the final two tests?
Amazing
How do you get the prints off the glass. I can’t imagine using hair spray or anything my prints fuse to the glass where it takes so much scraping with a paint scraper that it ruins the print. I’ve tried alcohol, cooling the glass with water (risky for tempered glass). Heating it back up works but I tend to notice the bottom layer leaves some behind when I do that.
What about setting the layer height to 0.04 multiples? That helped me out quite a bit. Otherwise, I recall on all those techniques being successful, great vid :)
I have plans of investigating this, quite a few people have mentioned this I believe you're right, it must be a real thing. I would like to experiment a little and make a video with some proof. I understand the steps on the motor, what I need to look into is the ratio for the z-axis leadscrew compared to those steps. What is one step in rotation equivalent to in actual motion I suppose is the question. Thank you for the support! I am trying to provide as much proof of concept in the video as I can so that it isn't just a matter of someone trusting what is heard, but they can see for themselves.
@@NeedItMakeIt Check out Chuck's video over at CHEP where he shows that the steps of the z-motor and the pitch of the lead screw result in 0.04 mm being a full step instead of an interpolated value so the layers can be more accurately set. I thing the stepping of the motors is pretty standard and the pitch on the lead screw as well, so it is probably applicable to more printers than just the Creality printers he uses as an example.
Most people call that the "Magic Number" and not all printers use the same value. Monoprice Mini's use a unique stepper motor for their Z axis and it's some weird 0.13 variant or something.
@@noxin75 most printers use .4, or at least from my experience. But yeah, it can vary.
@@vit.budina ender 3 is .04 multiples, not .4
Cool video, may I ask which plugin I see starting 4:01?
This is Spaghetti detective with Octoprint Raspberry Pi, pretty handy if you have prints which have potential to go wrong. Most of my prints are simple and I use glue stick to make sure they don't come away from the Build Plate. Spaghetti detective also allows you to watch your prints from anywhere on your phone that's a really nice feature.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks mate!
ok this was so full of great info that i was forced to subscribe immediately. Smart stuff!
It is amazing what you can find when you go looking. Lots of the time I think, "hey I've got a great new idea that nobody has every thought of..." yeah, they'd thought of it 99% of the time.
th-cam.com/video/3thCNTS0i4o/w-d-xo.html
Same
What do you set your initial print speed to? And do you have the fan for the first 2 layers or leave it off? I've read varying opinions on this. Thanks.
Initial is 15mm, and then inner wall 50, outer wall 32mm