Great idea, but those brass sleeves will also cut into the plastic tube eventually IF there are forces trying to move the tube back and forth. What you will need are plastic compression sleeves if you can find them or print them in that size. They are also made differently, look at the ones made for sink supply lines to see how they are made. P.S. I was a plumber for many years and I do have experience with compression fittings. I have seen the brass sleeves cut into and eventually break plastic tubing. The plastic sleeves will not do that.
It depends how much you tighten them. If you are over zealous and cut into it too deeply then it might. If you exert enough force to just clamp down on it, then it will be a much better way to hold it with a broad flat area than with razor like teeth from the original. And in plumbing you wouldn't use copper compression fittings on plastic normally, not without an insert to strengthen, but only if you had to. Better to use Speedfit fittings.
That was my experience, I finally took care of the problem by taking a drill and a Phillip's bit with the coupler on and stuck about 4mm of the Bowden tube and flanged it, You have to put a washer inside the part it mounts or the tube will not be able to get pinched also I used a coat hanger to slide into the tube while i tightened it down that way the washer didn't shift
I was thinking of the same thing. I used to work around a lot of water vessels and I use both types of fittings. I've been having issues with the fittings on my cr6. I was almost about ready to go to a direct drive. Thanks a lot for the video thumbs up
I ordered those after I saw this video a few weeks ago. I had alot of movement on both ends of the bowden tube even after changing the couplers and trying every trick in the book. After I got the pressure couplers I had to keep a few things in mind. 1. M10 was to big for the Redrex extruder but the coupler cuts into it but it will not go all the way in but it sits in there pretty tight. 2. The coupler has a small hole in the middle but it is to small for the bowden tube to fit trough. I drilled a 4.1 mm hole and now the bowden tube can sit right in the recess, on the extruder, where the filament comes in. (It was a bit fidly on the first tries especially without tightening the nut) 3. I only used a pressure coupler on the extruder on the heatsink I keept a regular one, if the bowden tube on the heatsink side still had movement I would have tried to install a pressure coupler aswell but there is no movement anymore. I haven't printed much yet but no matter the retraction settings there is zero movement. I did tigthen the nut pretty hard but not all the way down there is about 1mm space left between nut and coupler. I used Original Capricorn tubing for all of this. I will try to give an update in a month or two!
@@TelmoMonteiro I only got to test it for 2 weeks, my hotend had other problems aswell and a few things broke so I switched it out for a direct drive. In the two weeks it worked great even compensating a gap in the heatbreak. I had to tighten it once because I noticed more movement (still less movement than with the normal couplers), so it isn't the install and forget it option. Sorry I couldn't tell you more.
Literally just installed a similar, but slightly ghetto temp setup on my delta today. I think that combining this with a flare at the end of the m6 threads is the best possible solution.
This is really a good idea! I've just struggled with installing a Capricorn tube on my Ender 3 V2 this evening (Just a couple of hours before the landing of Percy on Mars ... no stress at all. Completely Calm :-/ ). Your idea is really good! It's the same solution used for permanent Copper- and PEX-tube installations, although PEX-tube connections usually use a further additive: A brass or copper tube insert. But maybe, just maybe, this insert is not necessary when the diameter of the tube is so small (and the wall thickness so relatively thick). I will definitely follow your interesting idea! Thanx!
The new Micro Swiss All-Metal hotend for the Creality CR-6 SE comes with this coupler, also the Micro Swiss dual gear extruder for the same printer has it too. Hot end is fitted and I like the coupler, waiting on the extruder but I'm looking forward to no bowden tube movement. Just got to make sure they're not over tightened.
I just started looking for replacement pneumatic couplers today and was just thinking why do people want teeth gripping and digging into tubing instead of an all around tight grip 🤔 then somehow I found your video and now I'm going to give this a shot instead 👍
What I think would be ideal is a direct drive using a compression filling and a brass tube. That way it serves two purposes. Smooth pass through and ridgid to handle the back and forth motion. Not sure how it would be affected by the hot end and heat transfer though. Probably would need to replace heat break with bi metal version. Would love to hear others thoughts on this approach.
Twisting also - as the x axis (and y, on non-bed slingers) moves back and forth the tube actually had rotational torque on it, so the teeth in pneumatic couplers, no matter how good of a coupler you get, will saw a ring in the tube.
Another great video. Already talked to you about getting a linear rail and that will most likely lead to direct drive, but was considering using one of these couplers. Can I get a link to the couplers you purchased and/or the specs? Cheers
The Bowden collet on my Micro Swiss has worn after only a couple of months and this allows the tube to ride up and down and is causing artefacts on my prints, I was thinking of machining a converter for a pneumatic PC10 fitting but having seen this I am thinking of converting to this compression fitting, what is the full name of this part as I am having trouble locating them in the UK?
I found it on alliexpress. I used an M10x1 to 4mm compression fitting (Slight modification would be needed. However, check out my video on microswiss custom making me a heatsink for it) However, I've heard 1/8" bsp might work as well.
- are you sure it’s a Bowden collect and not a Bowden Collet? - I thought the directswiss method was basically the same thing as a pneumatic fitting, just with the outer metal part replaced by a correctly machined section of the heatsink.
Its not actually the back and forth of the extruder that chews up the bowde tube, its the fact that as the hotend moves left and right, it rotates in the coupler, and those teeth cut into it.. The compression coupler will prevent the tube rotating, and theres no teeth/ blades to slice into the tube ;) You would need to be very careful when tightening it because if you tighten it a bit too much it will deform the tube and narrow the hole
The hotend end of the tube is usually the worst for wearing as that rotates more with the carriage than the extruder end which is at 0 degrees to the movement, the hotend is at 90 degrees to the movement #....
I have been trying to get rid of the shitty couplers all together, would it be possible to create a more permanent solution like crimping the end of the bowden tube like you would with a break line or even using something like a bicycle break line, or possibly design a coupler that has multiple sets of teeth.
Eh, now that we have things like input shapers direct drive has almost no drawbacks anymore. I have converted all my machines over now and they 100% all print better
It's actually not a pneumatic coupler. Pneumatic couplers have as standard: M3, M5, M7, G1/8... M6 is usually a standard thread for lubrication systems. And the compresion nut/ring that u used is a standard lubrication element. It also has a copper inserd for the end of the tube but obviously is not suited here.
There's actually a few reasons why I don't like direct drive setups. With less Mass on the x-axis gantry, I'm able to run at higher speeds with less artifacting and I would a direct drive system. The only direct drive system I have personal experience with is a genuine e3d hymera. The complexity of having so many components tightly integrated with each other makes maintenance an absolute nightmare.
When using a compression fitting and plastic tubing (ice maker water supply line) a inner brass ferrell is used to keep the inner diameter of tubing from distorting. I think this will cause some I.D. issues, maybe not?
So..... how's it going? It's been 2 years.... did it work out ok? And where did you get these, as in what did you look for on Ali Express? link? Is this channel dead? I see no replies to any comments
@@andrewesquivel Cool. Just ordered a genuine Capricorn tube. I figure it's about time my Ender clone had it's stringing issues sorted out. It came with the pneumatic headers though. I don't use the printer that often really so always cheaped out on parts (except the filament)
tightens the thing all the way, the tube slips out "you're gonna want it tighter than that" pushes it in by hand "now that is IN there" i have been truly convinced :)
Great idea, but those brass sleeves will also cut into the plastic tube eventually IF there are forces trying to move the tube back and forth. What you will need are plastic compression sleeves if you can find them or print them in that size. They are also made differently, look at the ones made for sink supply lines to see how they are made.
P.S. I was a plumber for many years and I do have experience with compression fittings. I have seen the brass sleeves cut into and eventually break plastic tubing. The plastic sleeves will not do that.
It depends how much you tighten them. If you are over zealous and cut into it too deeply then it might. If you exert enough force to just clamp down on it, then it will be a much better way to hold it with a broad flat area than with razor like teeth from the original. And in plumbing you wouldn't use copper compression fittings on plastic normally, not without an insert to strengthen, but only if you had to. Better to use Speedfit fittings.
That was my experience, I finally took care of the problem by taking a drill and a Phillip's bit with the coupler on and stuck about 4mm of the Bowden tube and flanged it, You have to put a washer inside the part it mounts or the tube will not be able to get pinched also I used a coat hanger to slide into the tube while i tightened it down that way the washer didn't shift
How has it been holding up? I have simular problems and looking for a solution. Seems like the best solution other than direct drive.
Exactly what I needed. Thank you!
I was thinking of the same thing. I used to work around a lot of water vessels and I use both types of fittings. I've been having issues with the fittings on my cr6. I was almost about ready to go to a direct drive. Thanks a lot for the video thumbs up
I ordered those after I saw this video a few weeks ago.
I had alot of movement on both ends of the bowden tube even after changing the couplers and trying every trick in the book.
After I got the pressure couplers I had to keep a few things in mind.
1. M10 was to big for the Redrex extruder but the coupler cuts into it but it will not go all the way in but it sits in there pretty tight.
2. The coupler has a small hole in the middle but it is to small for the bowden tube to fit trough. I drilled a 4.1 mm hole and now the bowden tube can sit right in the recess, on the extruder, where the filament comes in. (It was a bit fidly on the first tries especially without tightening the nut)
3. I only used a pressure coupler on the extruder on the heatsink I keept a regular one, if the bowden tube on the heatsink side still had movement I would have tried to install a pressure coupler aswell but there is no movement anymore.
I haven't printed much yet but no matter the retraction settings there is zero movement. I did tigthen the nut pretty hard but not all the way down there is about 1mm space left between nut and coupler.
I used Original Capricorn tubing for all of this.
I will try to give an update in a month or two!
How's it holding on?
@@TelmoMonteiro I only got to test it for 2 weeks, my hotend had other problems aswell and a few things broke so I switched it out for a direct drive.
In the two weeks it worked great even compensating a gap in the heatbreak.
I had to tighten it once because I noticed more movement (still less movement than with the normal couplers), so it isn't the install and forget it option.
Sorry I couldn't tell you more.
@@Sul1s0 thank you so much! I'm dealing with it right now and you answer is of help 🙏
Literally just installed a similar, but slightly ghetto temp setup on my delta today. I think that combining this with a flare at the end of the m6 threads is the best possible solution.
I wish you would put links to all the products you use in your videos!!! Great video BTW! Thank you.
Your looking for the M6 to 4mm for most ender 3 extruders.
a.aliexpress.com/_mLuOIXf
This is really a good idea! I've just struggled with installing a Capricorn tube on my Ender 3 V2 this evening (Just a couple of hours before the landing of Percy on Mars ... no stress at all. Completely Calm :-/ ).
Your idea is really good! It's the same solution used for permanent Copper- and PEX-tube installations, although PEX-tube connections usually use a further additive: A brass or copper tube insert. But maybe, just maybe, this insert is not necessary when the diameter of the tube is so small (and the wall thickness so relatively thick).
I will definitely follow your interesting idea! Thanx!
The new Micro Swiss All-Metal hotend for the Creality CR-6 SE comes with this coupler, also the Micro Swiss dual gear extruder for the same printer has it too. Hot end is fitted and I like the coupler, waiting on the extruder but I'm looking forward to no bowden tube movement. Just got to make sure they're not over tightened.
I just started looking for replacement pneumatic couplers today and was just thinking why do people want teeth gripping and digging into tubing instead of an all around tight grip 🤔 then somehow I found your video and now I'm going to give this a shot instead 👍
youtube is listening into your thoughts ...
Awesome, thats what we need. Please give us you long term experience with it.
What I think would be ideal is a direct drive using a compression filling and a brass tube. That way it serves two purposes. Smooth pass through and ridgid to handle the back and forth motion. Not sure how it would be affected by the hot end and heat transfer though. Probably would need to replace heat break with bi metal version. Would love to hear others thoughts on this approach.
what size was that compression fitting?
Great video! Looking at Aliexpress and wanted to know what diameter is needed (M4? M6?). Thanks
How are these working out?
How do you use that on a creality hot end side and seal the Bowden to the nozzle properly? Or is that a Luke’s hot end fix to get around that issue?
What's the sizes of all the parts that way I can wear it in the US instead of waiting a month and a half for a piece of brass. Thanks
any wear on the tube yet ?
Twisting also - as the x axis (and y, on non-bed slingers) moves back and forth the tube actually had rotational torque on it, so the teeth in pneumatic couplers, no matter how good of a coupler you get, will saw a ring in the tube.
Please give is links to the correct product / size.
What are your experience now after 1 year?
I was using this setup and have had it pop out, quite randomly though.
Any links where to get this coupler?
what is the part number and how you order with different threada
Another great video. Already talked to you about getting a linear rail and that will most likely lead to direct drive, but was considering using one of these couplers. Can I get a link to the couplers you purchased and/or the specs? Cheers
The Bowden collet on my Micro Swiss has worn after only a couple of months and this allows the tube to ride up and down and is causing artefacts on my prints, I was thinking of machining a converter for a pneumatic PC10 fitting but having seen this I am thinking of converting to this compression fitting, what is the full name of this part as I am having trouble locating them in the UK?
I found it on alliexpress. I used an M10x1 to 4mm compression fitting (Slight modification would be needed. However, check out my video on microswiss custom making me a heatsink for it) However, I've heard 1/8" bsp might work as well.
Real thanks for... no description showing the product used.
SO...did this work or not?
- are you sure it’s a Bowden collect and not a Bowden Collet?
- I thought the directswiss method was basically the same thing as a pneumatic fitting, just with the outer metal part replaced by a correctly machined section of the heatsink.
Which size is it ? In the comments I see M6 and at a different comment M8 ?
I am all set for this. take the cash!
MK8 Hotend and Extruder Compression Fitting for Creality 3D Printers www.amazon.com/dp/B09QKN2NR1
So what was the long term result? Need the 4 month check in on this, considing that my current fittings last a month at most.
The compression fittings have well over 450 hours of use with zero issues
@@andrewesquivel nice good to know
Its not actually the back and forth of the extruder that chews up the bowde tube, its the fact that as the hotend moves left and right, it rotates in the coupler, and those teeth cut into it..
The compression coupler will prevent the tube rotating, and theres no teeth/ blades to slice into the tube ;) You would need to be very careful when tightening it because if you tighten it a bit too much it will deform the tube and narrow the hole
The hotend end of the tube is usually the worst for wearing as that rotates more with the carriage than the extruder end which is at 0 degrees to the movement, the hotend is at 90 degrees to the movement
#....
do you have to adjust retraction settings to compensate for the distance of the compression fitting?
I have been trying to get rid of the shitty couplers all together, would it be possible to create a more permanent solution like crimping the end of the bowden tube like you would with a break line or even using something like a bicycle break line, or possibly design a coupler that has multiple sets of teeth.
THANK YOU!!!
Eh, now that we have things like input shapers direct drive has almost no drawbacks anymore. I have converted all my machines over now and they 100% all print better
Next you'll see people upgrade to steel braided brake lines or AN fittings. 😅
Great idea to try. Didn't work for me😒
What size is the compression fitting. Thanks
Threads are M6, compression is 4mm
a.aliexpress.com/_mLuOIXf
@@andrewesquivel awesome thank you. Keep up the great videos.
@@andrewesquivel hi Andrew, can the tube pass through the M6 fitting or will it stop halfway?
Is it a "collect" or "collet"?
Asking for a friend...
It's collet. I mispronounced it in this video.
It's actually not a pneumatic coupler.
Pneumatic couplers have as standard: M3, M5, M7, G1/8...
M6 is usually a standard thread for lubrication systems. And the compresion nut/ring that u used is a standard lubrication element. It also has a copper inserd for the end of the tube but obviously is not suited here.
That's why it's soo tight, i cut my hand trying to insert that brass ring lol
why not go with direct drive?
There's actually a few reasons why I don't like direct drive setups.
With less Mass on the x-axis gantry, I'm able to run at higher speeds with less artifacting and I would a direct drive system.
The only direct drive system I have personal experience with is a genuine e3d hymera. The complexity of having so many components tightly integrated with each other makes maintenance an absolute nightmare.
When using a compression fitting and plastic tubing (ice maker water supply line) a inner brass ferrell is used to keep the inner diameter of tubing from distorting. I think this will cause some I.D. issues, maybe not?
Just bought myself one, has to ship to the UK unfortunately
Did ya get it yet ?? Thinking of getting one too but dunno if I cba waiting for it to come to teesside lol
@@mickyovts3872 Nope, still waiting on it.
So..... how's it going? It's been 2 years.... did it work out ok? And where did you get these, as in what did you look for on Ali Express? link?
Is this channel dead? I see no replies to any comments
Not dead by a long shot. They work great so long as it's on a genuine Capricorn Bowden tube. I sell them on Amazon now here in the USA.
@@andrewesquivel Cool. Just ordered a genuine Capricorn tube. I figure it's about time my Ender clone had it's stringing issues sorted out. It came with the pneumatic headers though. I don't use the printer that often really so always cheaped out on parts (except the filament)
Just use Direct Drive. Skip the whole Bowden Tube mess completely.
😂😂 I didnt work
tightens the thing all the way, the tube slips out "you're gonna want it tighter than that" pushes it in by hand "now that is IN there" i have been truly convinced :)