Upgrade the Ender 3 V2 Extruder in 5 Minutes - Aluminum Extruder Upgrade
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2020
- In this video we upgrade the Creality Ender 3 V2 plastic extruder to use a new TH3D Aluminum V2 Extruder. It's a very easy upgrade and can be done in about 5 minutes!
**Don't forget to check your ESteps after this Upgrade!!**
• Section 1.8 ESteps and...
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Most people on youtube (regardless of content) irritate me. This dude is my type of person. Great content and right to the point with no apologies.
Thanks man! I appreciate it, and I hope the videos help!
Your tutorials are quick, simple and brilliant. I love this!
Awww man I needed this a year ago when I put one on my ender 3. Basically did it flying blind. I was shocked it actually worked. Your vid was dead on would have made my install much easier. Keep up the great work. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Haha well I'm glad yours worked!!! Thanks for watching!
I watched the entire video without sound and I understood everything perfectly anyway. That's one sign that you've made a very good tutorial.
I just have to say I loved your tutorial because you were quick, but thorough, and showed every step. Thank you....
Thanks a lot for this video. I did a couple of things differently when I installed the extruder.
1. While removing the screw in 2:30 , I retained the metal funnel thingy that resides inside the sprint and transferred that to the new extruder where this piece was lacking.
2. I retained the gear from 2:45 as it looked like the gear on the new one was similar to the existing one. Both had 2 grub screws too.
From another upgrade video by bv3d, he inserted the screw in 6:25 the other way around. i.e from inside out. This way, the head of the screw supported the spring and would give it less wiggle room. I think this was a good idea too.
“If you look under the arm… you might find a little crack in there”.
Pulls arm off, finds it’s cracked nearly in two.
“Huh. Well, there’s the problem”
Thanks for the great guide, made the diagnosis of the problem I was having and the upgrade process really simple.
That's what happened to mine the other day. Explains why my prints were awful leading up to that. Replacing that mechanism has lead to prints being so much better. Even without calibration.
Yep, I'm here because mine cracked last night.
same lol
Mine silently cracked / tore itself apart. I was really happy as it explained why my prints have been failing for so long.
Exactly the same happened to me
Thank you so much. My printer was not working for the past few months in the sense the filament wouldn't stick to the bed, and it gave the worst looking prints. I thought it was the bed then came to the concluding the extruder had a cracked piece. Your instructions are fast and easy to follow, and now my printer is working.
Oh this came right on time. I already broke a bit of that crappy extruder just by compressing it to take the filament out.
It’s always nice to see this channel when I’m looking stuff up for my Ender3v2. Good vibes
Just purchased my ender 3 v2 and waiting for it to get delivered thanks for all these videos.
No prob! I hope they help!
Thank you so much!! I was printing along great until I had a sudden underextrusion issue after only a couple months. My plastic arm cracked. New metal extruder did the trick
This video was helpful. It took me way longer than it should have to realize that the m4 spring screw and the m3 rivet nut being missized was on purpose so you could use the m4 screw to adjust the spring tension and thus how hard the extruder grabs the filament. I substituted the 12mm long one that same with the kit with a 20mm one for a greater range of compression.
Thank you! Simple, with nice tips and tricks to make sure everything runs smoothly. Great guide! 👌
Dude I've done this to my machines and know it well but you're just such a likable guy I cant help but watch!
Haha Thank you for watching!
This video inspired me to go ahead and swap out my extruder. When I took the old one apart, sure enough, the plastic arm was cracked. :) Anyway, thanks to your help, the new one is installed, calibrated, and printing away!
When i first saw this Video and heard things like "the orinigal handle often gets a crack" i thought you are making an advertisement. But you were absolutely right - the handle was cracked on my printer and it works much better since i followed your steps 😁 thank you!
Thanks for the video, the extruder arm must be tight enough so it can give a nice tension to the spring inside. I had spring tension problems after watching your video and increasing the tightness (not crazy tight) solved my issue.
Man I love the instructions you give thank you !!!
I did this upgrade before I saw the video, but watched anyway to make sure I didn't screw anything up. Best upgrade ever! The old single drive plastic would drive me crazy. I would stand and watch the brim and first couple of layers to make sure something didn't screw up, and most of the time it did. With this upgrade, I can finally hit print and walk away!
Thank you! Made that job very easy. Much appreciated 👍👍👍
Thank you!! I installed the creality aluminum extruder from this video
Thank you sooooo much for the guide 👏😁
Just installed it on My CR-6 SE 💪
Good Video! I purchased a replacement months ago and just decided to change out. I had a look at the old arm and yes it was cracked!
Thanks man, I was struggling so much about this.
Dude thanks for the video! You helped me with my extruder issue :)
Excellent video! Great instructions and easy to follow. Thanks!
Had to like this vid from two accounts. Thanks for the great tutorials.
Watching you put the stepper motor back on without taking that opportunity to clean out the filament chunks made me irrationally upset lol. Loved the video, will be doing this upgrade for my V2 soon.
Lol, I had the same cringe, you just don’t do that….
you guys solved my issue...was getting spongy prints and sure enough the extruder wasn't feeding consistently. And just like you said the arm was cracked on the bottom. Only difference is my stepper motor has the feed gear pressed on the shaft vs the grub screws you show. I just ordered a new motor with the flats on the motor shaft so I can use the gear with the kit.
AWESOME! I'll order one when I order my V2. Thanks
As a new printer, you are a godsend bro.
This is a must upgrade and I would order one at the same time you get your ender 3, its cheap and easy to do but makes a huge difference to performance and quality.
It took me forever to find the extrusion problem with my Ender 3 v2. It looked like it was missing layers in my prints.
Finally I noticed that crack in the arm you mentioned because I accidentally pulled on the filament and it slid out with any effort or spinning the stepper.
I got the Creality version. It doesn’t let you over tighten the arm and apparently works better with flexibles but I only use PLA so that doesn’t matter too much to me.
Another great vid Jim. Shared in the creality discord channel I help look after 👍
Thanks for that! I appreciate it! What is the discord Channel link!?
Here is a link to the "Creality 3D Printers" discord discord.gg/tTaJQ8e. I've placed this vid in the Video Guides / Modifications channel 👍
Muito obrigado, vídeo muito bem explicado. Sanou todas as minhas dúvidas (Thanks from Brazil)
Thanks for all the help man!
Thanks very much for this, made my life a lot easier.
The only disadvantage with this extruder is it still uses the M6 coupling, I found the Creality metal extruder with the M10 coupling has allowed me to print flexible filament as the Bowden tube feeds right into the extruder.
Have you any link for the m10 i print alot of tpu and i got one of these v2's on order
@@Loz348 they are available directly from the Creality website and most likely Amazon as well.
Thank you for that video, really easy to follow!
that was good,liked it thanks buddy
Thanks heaps mate very helpful 🙏🙏
4:42, don't forget the thread locker! When that little grub screw comes loose, the filament flow stops.
Great video. Made it very easy to change the extruder. Thanks :)
Man you helped me a lot, super Videos!
I bought a double geared one. Works like a charm!
Where did you get it from? Do you remember?
Link? :)
Thanks for an excellent guide. A small comment: There was no washer included in my kit between the pressure arm and the extruder body. The insert is dimensioned so that it is possible to tighten while the arm can move freely. Same with original. The new extruder works like a charm. Thanks 👍
I didn’t get a washer eaither
Same
yep, same here. I guess it's normal because it still was able to move perfectly fine without it :)
Thank you so much! I was looking all over thinking I lost the washer 😂
Great video! I was easily able to follow these instructions to perform this upgrade. Good thing I did because the stock plastic component was already broken on my printer after light use. I did have one print fail because the grub screws on the aluminum extruder came loose and the feeding gear lifted out of place. Has that happened to you before?
thanks so much, this tutorial was so helpfull. i'm trying to fix my 3d printer, and i found out that the roll of fillament i was ussing was to heavy to be pulled by he extruder, so i replaced it, then i adjusted the steps per mm and thats when the extruder broke.
Jim you have great style and your information and delivery is great.
Just a tip - for emergencies - super glue (cyanoacrylate) works quite well on the acrylic plastic of the extruder lever to fix the crack.
Great video! correct me if i am wrong, looks like the power supply fan is facing down. Although power supply is elevated from the bottom for better air circulation please advise how well is it able to keep the power supply cool while operating for extended hours?
thank you very much only my new spring is longer than original I can^t screw it too much but everything perfect! You've a new subs!! ✌️
this looks like a video done right. Thank you
Great Video you made that look easy thank you
Just rounded out one of my grub screws.
Good tip. . . put your build plate in the freezer to remove stubborn parts. It works great, and by removing the build plate from the printer when you remove your parts you're not exerting any pressure on the bed, which can throw off the levelling! Also a good tip, If you're going to be printing any tight fitting precision parts, then I strongly recommend that you first square off the frame of your printer.
OK, so I purchased my second E3V2 3D printer a couple of weeks ago. My first printer was a major source of frustrations at times, and especially up until 2 weeks ago. But, it gave me a heads up as to what to expect after printing on an E3V2 3D printer 24/7 for 7 months. I'd had extruder problems, under-extrusion problems, bed-levelling problems. You name it, I probably had the problem. The lever on the stock extruder of my older first printer also cracked, and I replaced it with an aluminum one. In my opinion, these types of extruders, both plastic and metal, are flawed in design. They are inadequate for feeding filament to the hot end, and especially at lower temperatures. So even PLA can become a problem to print. In any case, they do not seem to be 100% compatible with Creality's stock hot end.
As with anything else I do, I attempted to find that sweet spot where everything works smoothly and perfectly. To solve the under-extrusion problem, I'd tried slowing down print speed and making the hot end hotter, but neither of these things helped me to eliminate the clicking sounds coming from these types of extruders. In theory, slowing down the print speed should have given the filament enough time to melt. If so, the extruder would not have had to force the filament through to the hot end. But this was not the case, and the solution was far from obvious. It should also have kept the extruder gear from grinding down on the filament, because when the filament is melted properly the extruder does not consistently bite down on the same segment of filament. After I got fed up of experimenting with these things, and realizing that these weren't working, I switched to Creality's direct drive. This shortened the travel length between extruder and hot end, and reduced drag on the filament caused by friction in the long Bowden tube. I had to reduce retraction down to 1.5mm and my prints are printing perfectly. Enough about the printer feed system.
Next, these printers also lack X-axis gantry support on the right side of the printer. Auto bed-levelling devices only help with bed surface irregularities. These do not level the bed, so all that hype on the internet is actually misleading. It's not a bed-levelling device at all! It's an irregular bed surface compensation sensor which uses a mesh pattern to raise or lower the Z-axis depending on the depth of the bed from the sensor's tip, and indirectly, the hot end nozzle. The lack of X-axis gantry support causes the gantry to sag on the right side. I'd removed and disassembled the gantry in an attempt to raise it slightly, but that didn't do very much. You might not think this matters, but on their own that single brass nut and lead screw are not enough to support the extra weight on the right side of the gantry. I'd had major bed-levelling issues and I believe that this was because of the sagging gantry. So, I added a second lead screw to the right side of both of my printers at a cost just under $200 CAD. The screws must be synced together, otherwise it can lead to other problems. This is easy to do. I left the setscrew (grub screw to some of you) that fastens the lead screw to the coupler loose on both sides of the printer. I turned the couplers to move the gantry up as high as I needed it to, so that I could use gravity and physics to align the teeth on the screws. Then, I used the Move>Z axis, and dropped the gantry as low as needed to sync the screws together. When this was done, all I needed to do was fasten the lead screw to the coupler with the setscrew. I raised and lowered the gantry several times to make sure there weren't any problems. I didn't get it on the first try. I had to try a couple of times before everything worked smoothly, and without locking up the stepper motors. This not only added gantry right side support, but once adjusted, it also keeps the gantry perpendicular with the frame side extrusion. It also makes it easier to level the bed. In theory, if the gantry is perpendicular to the frame side extrusions I can level the bed so that it is parallel with the gantry. A good way to test this is to print a square part. The part should be perfectly square or as close to it as is possible, and not a skewed version of it.
And last, but not least, I replaced the recommended stronger yellowish-colored bed springs for more rigid silicone mounts. Neither the stock springs or suggested yellowish-colored springs make any bit of difference at maintaining the bed level once it's been adjusted. Vibrations can easily unscrew those knobs and throw off the levelling. The silicone mounts made a huge difference. For example, I've had my new printer setup as described above. It's been printing 24/7 for 2 weeks without having to be relevelled. My older printer has been setup this way for only a few days, but it too has not needed to be relevelled. I remember having to relevel the bed on my older printer every couple of days with the stock springs. The yellowish-colored springs kept the bed level a day or so longer. But neither of these kept my bed level and printing 24/7 for 2 weeks time! Oh, and I've started my 3rd week of printing. All I've had to tweak is the Z-offset by about 0.1mm, but my bed has remained consistently level for all this time.
Now that my older printer is set up this way, all the problems I'd had with it are completely gone. My second, newer printer hasn't had any problems yet, and I think I've solved the issues I'd had with these few simple recommendations.
Thank you for this video
hi! great video! I have a question for you. what do you think about Dual Drive Gear Extruder? because I saw that you only use a single gear extruder. Thanks!
got the extuder, but in loooong prints 12+ hours, or in short ones, there no apparent trend had problems with smashing the material and ending not extruding. my feeling is that the tension was way off and for softer PLA it was easier to get mangled up. also, in relation to the stock plastic one, i observed that on the stock the PLA wire goes from hole to hole almost in a straight line, but in the metal extruder there was a bit of a noticable curve while touching the gears. The new metal extruder from creality, is the same as stock but metal, i think that will solve the problem.
thanks. what is the thingverse link to the 'Hotend Cable Clip' you have on the extrude motor's spring screw ?
Great video, thanks 😊
really nice tutorial i like it very much and i updated it too with your ınstruction
Thanks a lot, that was very helpfull
Yesss, thank you
Real question: Is it any easier to swap filament on this extruder? That is honestly my biggest gripe with the stock Ender 3 V2. It sometimes takes me 10 minutes to swap filaments and I have to use micro fine tweezers.
Sweet! Direct extrude and double z + bltouch ;) will be sweeter;) you rock too!!!
Good call! That's like my Ender 3 is setup! :)
Where can I buy that allen wrench you used to unscrew the extruder ? I like it :)
Thanks, good stuff
solid vid man
Hey thanks for the video I have done the upgrade but it's almost like the gears are strange to get the filament through and it's not coming out of the nozzle any tips? Thanks 😄
So do I have this correct. I'm shopping for my first 3D printer. Considering how many upgrades are needed on the ender 3, why buy it? Seems like in the end you've spent just as much as you would have for a nicer 3D printer from the start.
Why is it important that one of the grub screws on the gear sit flush with the flat part of the stepper motor arm? Could it cause under extrusion or trouble later if one screw isn't sitting on that flat end?
I am waiting for my 3V2... I just bought the preassembled kit, though... was like 27 bucks
Thank you so much Sir
What kind of wrench is that at 2:44? I can’t get this part out :(
Can this aluminum extruder be added along with the printermod direct drive kit?
Try this myself and found that my flow rate changes? I think it was caused by the wheel diameter being different on the stock model compared to the upgraded metal one??? Not too sure but would like to hear some advise on this problem.
thank you so so much !!!
Hi Jim,
Is this the same for the Voxelab Aquila X2? my filament will not unload wheels are turning but nothing happening
Hi can you please send me banggood listing of the similar product because the shipping to new zealand from th3d is more expensive than the actual product
Thanks
I just ordered one.
Can this metal extruder also work with other printers? Like for example an Anet et4?
This is a first... A 3d printing channel hosted by a pro wrestler
Can messing with the original feed extruder like to say if I loosen and clean it and put it back, will I need to calibrate it as if I replaced it?
my arm didn't crack, it broke off 2 days after I got it, so Amazon gave me my money back and told me that I could do whatever I wanted with the machine. Now I bought the metal replacement part, no instructions on how to put it together, that's why I like "The Edge of Tech"
Hey, thanks for the amazing videos. How do you compare the 3v2 with the 5pro? Do you have any video comparing the two?
I don't have a video on that one. But they are both good machines. The E3V2 is newer, but the E5 Pro has a great frame and gets great prints!
Thnx for the video
The extruder arm on my printer just shattered. I bought the kit shown in this video . However, the 42/40 stepper motor I have seems to have a shorter shaft and a press fitted gear wheel. Do I need to buy another stepper motor with the longer shaft to be able to fit this type of extruder?
Thank you sir.
Hi Jim, I install aliminium arm with single gear but after long printings like +20 hours I see that arm get hot and flament get flex. I use esun pla+. Also I see people use dual gear for extruder. Do you recommend it? Now I buy a passive cooling under extruder engine hope it will fix my problem. if you used double gear, would you recommend it? If you suggest, I will return and replace the single arm. I usually get prints over +20 hours. I print game figures. Greetings from Istanbul Turkey
My oem plastic one just broke, guess I need to get this.
Excellent video, thank you for making this and making it very straight forward. You were explanatory with the right amount of jargon. My extruder finally started wearing at the top of the feed hole and it was causing under extrusion or inconsistent extrusion. Went for the upgrade kit finally. Thank you!
Glad it helped!!
Thank you so much
I saw on some sites within the group a yellow spring, is it better or this?
I beat you to it, changed mine last night. Makes a huge difference physiologically. I also changed to Capricorn, do yourself a favor and check how burnt that white PTFE tube is just after a couple of prints.
Awesome!! I bet if you look at the PTFE tube and bowden connectors on the thumbnail you can tell what my next video will be about! ;)
Hmm. wouldn't a steel insert wear much slower than a piece of aluminum? I believe one issue with the Enders is that, once you get halfway the roll of filament, the filament is pulled into the extruder under a pretty steep angle.
so the gear on my motor didnt have set screws... what do i do?
What did you do to keep the wiring from flopping around now that the clip is missing?
I did so many upgrades but skipped this one, now this one broke on me😪 smh time for upgrade!
Do you have a video and slt to upgrade fans for ender 3 v2?