Upgrade Creality Ender 3 with Capricorn PTFE Tubing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2024
- Chuck shows you how to Upgrade your Creality Ender 3 3D Printer with Capricorn PTFE Tubing. He shows you how to replace it and get your Creality Ender 3 printing better than new. Capricorn PTFE will work to a higher temperature than the standard PTFE that is included with your 3D printer.
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That bridge!! Holy smokes.
You just fixed a problem I had for MONTHS that I thought was unsolvable since I’m very new to 3D printing, thank you so much!
Ordered Capricorn and decided to install this morning. 1st thing, load this video. Had it in and running great in literally 10 minutes. CHEP's videos are the only ones I go to. THANKS Yet again Chuck!
As a tip to new owners, the connectors by design use a grip type method of holding the tubing in place which is why you must slide down that plastic release to get the tubing out. Look closely inside the connector (after tubing is removed), to see the little metal "claws" that grip. Knowing the nozzle gets extremely hot when printing and that the connector is metal, it makes sense that plastic tubing would eventually look like you've demonstrated at the 2:00 mark. Those little grip claws eventually work their way into plastic via heat and friction. Checking these connections periodically and replacing plastic tubing is a part of good standard preventative maintenance. I'm not taking away from this kit, as I bought one almost immediately after purchasing my Ender 3 Pro, but now realize I didn't need to install this just yet since I have not used mine enough to have that kind of wear on my stock tubing. Your video shows us how easy it is to check though. Thank you.
Thanks for the help! Took apart my whole hot end trying to figure out why I was under-extruding. My tube had some resistance too, I’m looking forward to doing a test bridge that looks like yours!
Thank you - this fixed my 'knocking' issue without having to change the nozzle.
Thanks the internet for guys like you.
Thank you for posting this video. I could not figure out why my nozzle was extruding evenly until I found the clog in the tube!
That's a neat little trick for installing the PTFE tube in the hot end. I did my Capricorn swap when my printer was about a month old, the only thing I did differently was I loosened the nozzle before installing the tubing and then tightened up the nozzle to the PTFE tube.
again your video saved me from a headache. just got the tube replaced and my first print is coming out awesome. thank you!
Coupling near the extrudrer in my Ender 3 Pro after like 9 months of printing stopped holding the ptfe tube well. I am thinking of upgrading my printer with Capricorn, and your tutorial will help me if I will install it. Big thanks Chuck!
Just changed mine using your videos. 3 upgrades just today. Thank you !!!
have a nice thankgiving
Thanks man, Helped alot bought a 2nd printer had to replace the Tubing and this video Showed me exactly what i was doing.
Great stuff, have the same kit! It was a nice addition to the Ender3 and certainly something everyone should consider when looking at things that can be improved from the base config.
Wow, just recently I encountered the same exact problem. I thought that it was a bad filament but when I changed the nozzle and tried to put the filament into the hotend I noticed the blockage you described. Good that I noticed it now, before I ordered a new extruder which I also suspected to be faulty. A bit of nerves and money saved.
Great share - watching what you did let me replace mine zip-zap. I wasn't familiar with those couplings - helped to see you deal with it first. My Ender is virtually brand new but while I ordered a few upgrades I ordered the Capricorn upgrade while I was at it. I am loving my Ender. I have a lot of time on Makerbot z18 (absolute piece of junk, only nightmares trying to get good prints off that) and the Replicator+. The prints off the Ender right out of the box were far better, higher resolution.
Update - I found trimming the PTFE tubing very square cannot be overstated. The method of back off the coupling 3/4 turn and then cinching down once the tubing is inserted well - same thing, the importance can't be overstated. Helped a buddy who started having problems. Though it was just a bed leveling problem but he continued to have skipping problems throughout a print. I guided him through retrimming the PTFE tube using a little purpose-designed miter box for a box cutter blade. Looks like this solved the problem - Thanks, again.
Thanks for the video. Just ordered through your link.
Thank you! Really love your videos, so easy to understand!
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I just ordered a set for my ender 3.
Turning the fitting with brand new tube inserted is a good way to accelerate the problem you just tried to solve. It's best to use the nozzle as the compression agent.
Thanks for the info I have been using stock Bowden ptfe for 8+ months with no problem but recently I got a jam in the hot end part of the ptfe tube so I ordered a Capricorn ptfe and new couples so I hope this helps improve
2 weeks in to having my ender 3 and the original PTFE tube goes... Well, at least I won't have to do this again soon. Thanks for the vid.
The clips you mention more importantly prevent play in the push fitting. This is particularly relevant at the extruder end. If the hotend it done as you recommended it will lock the PTFE tube in place.
I was having problems with filament breaking in the extruder. The PTFE tube was cracked exactly where you pointed out at the coupling at the hot end. I performed the maintenance in this video and the problem is solved. Thanks Chep! 😀
Glad it helped.
Hi. Since capricorn tubing has slightly thinner inner dia, there is smaller play of filement inside. That means you could lower down retraction. Lowering down retraction means less prounanced seam, faster print and lower chances for a clog. In other words you get possibly closest to direct drive extruder advantages without giving away high acceleration and jerk (low bowden style mass). And that is the real added value of replacing ptfe tubing to capricorn.
Thanks ! I needed this
Really nice, easy to follow tutorial! Thank you.
Great walkthrough 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
I really appreciate this video. I had to get this tubing because the stock tubing is garbage. This tutorial was awesome!👍🏾
your suggestions are very good man , you are perfect thanks for this video
This was reall helpful cuz im new to 3d printing and ive replaced my hot end and then my PTFE locks werw broke so yeah and now i can begin printing again
Thank you for these great informative videos!!!!!
Checked my tube and sure enough is wasn't pushed all the way down. Reseated and noticed wear starting on stock tube where the coupling is. Anyway, long story short, no more stringing, ordered the Capricorn tubing and cutter!
I'll check it out.
Thank You for the reply Chuck.
Frank M.
You sound exactly like Hobbs from the old world of warcraft videos haha. Love your videos thanks for all your help!!
Work very well for my Ender 3 Pro
Thanks dude you have said me so much trouble!!!
Hi.
I was watching a lot tube while prinntig. The tube is cut not because one turns thw coupling. It happens seldom (usually). I have made a mark on a tube just above the coupler on the hot end. When the carriage moves along X axis the tube rotate inside the cupler. It is due the geometry of the tubing path, stiffness and the way all thing is assembled. Due this back and forward rotation sharp coupling teeths cut through the tube. For sure Chep srew pritable coupling or other one locking the tube axially would be recomended.
Best regards!
Thank you so much for this!!!
Nice video! As a stop-gap measure, I was able to cut one end off and swap the ends around. Worked great until the replacement arrived :)
Upgrading your Bowden system may possibly be the best cost to performance increase ratio of all DIY mods. Taking into account the ease of the procedure, it most definitely is to me.
I had stock PTFE tube issues printing nylon on my CR10 with stock hot end assembly . Switched to capricorn and no more problems. It seems to handle the temp.
Great video, nice and clear. Thanks!
I already got Capricorn PTFE on the way. And I haven't even been home to open my Ender 3 yet.
I did the same exact thing, haven't even assembled and I just got it
Thank you so much.
maybe I'm the only one that does this, but when I'm replacing bowden tubing, I usually remove the nozzle and run the tubing through the hotend and pull it all the way through. Usually it picks up some old burnt filament that shouldn't be there and cleans out the hotend.
Thank you so much!
THAT BRIDGE YO LMFAOOO. Great video I needed that
Seems like an easy kit to run filament directly from a filament dryer to the 3D printer as well.
Thank you for this video! I had a printer breakdown just when my son wanted parts for his physics project (mousetrap car). It turned out that it was a massive blockage in the original ptfe tube. There was also so brown grease at the nozzle end of the tube? I had actually bought a replacement and never installed it. The video directions got us going and back on track. Thanks again!
I believe the brown "grease" is actually residue from burnt PLA - take a q-tip w/alcohol and clean that stuff out!
My factory Bowden tube had the exact same two jams! I can’t print for two days now waiting for the new tube..
Thank you very much ! Mille mercis pour votre aide !
Thank you sir !!
I upgraded mine to a black ptfe tube from trianglelab, when I had to replace my hotend (failed experiment with ABS...) I ordered some all metal heatbreaks for the stock extruder which should convert it to all metal. I hope my plan goes well, so I can print ABS without worrying about degrading my nice new tube if I ever want to
btw, I just noticed I haven't given you an abo yet. Fixed that problem of course ;)
When I assemble a new printer, this is one of the items that gets installed from day one. I have zero experience with the provided PTFE and want to keep it that way.
Thanks for the guidance! Great as always.
Question: I’m printing with white PLA, and my prints are now coming out with a very noticeable blue tinge… is that normal for Capricorn tubing?
And if so… will it go?
Does it work well with super cheap filament that may not always be exactly the right size, though? I'm worried about upgrades that are going to make it so I can't keep using my cheapo filament.
Kept getting the same problem until I changed over to Capricorn tubing. The heat from the hot end was distorting the tube and shrinking it onto the filament
After installing this tube it jams at the hot end due to tube expansion. Do you have a video about this? It was fine before
Great video Sir!
Having trouble with that slippery PTFE? Try using a wide rubber band to grip it with.
Wow that is exactly what happened to my creality hotend that I swapped to my R3D S1
Great video and info!! Sir I'm new to 3d printing so i'm trying to learn all i can.. Would you have a link on how I can make that bridge?? Thank You!!
A great video, shows one of the best and least expensive upgrades to any Creality printer.
thanks , you help me so much!! :)
What's the actual length of the Bowden tubing though? I've read 18in online but that seems to be a tad too much.
"I love the red tubing..."
I see what you did there... :)
Latest iterations of the Ender 3 include a rather good tube that's really snug around the 1.75 mm filament. I'd say as good as the Capricorn one. At least when it comes to tolerances. Dunno about the overall quality though, or how well it holds up over time. Older Ender 3's had a "sloppier" tube.
I have a brand new Ender 3D Pro that I got at Microcenter last month. If it's an upgrade over historical tube, I can't say, but I know I didn't have any slop that I heard about - it moving around in the couplings. So given that however, I replaced with the capricorn tube because it came with the bed spring upgrade I got off Amazon. I'm getting a better print right away - no glooping, or hair on something I tried to print 5 minutes before the change. That could also be a result of the tube being clogged, but I don't see one...
I've redone this multiple time even buying more tubbing to redo the cut. Every time what I'm assuming is a gap fills the hotend with plastics and causes crazy amounts of stringing. Am I doing something wrong? Could a new hotend help?
Another excellent video. The uk version on Amazon seems nothing compared to the US,
and i cant find anything in the uk as good as this. So i ordered th US version. Thanks for the link
Great ! Now that you have such a smoother ptfe, shouldn't you drive a test with TPU that usually require direct drive hotend ? Big thanks for you video Dude..
Do you need to re-calibrate your e-steps afetr you have installed the Capricorn tubing?
its necessary these clips for the tube? my kit don't have it
CHEP. Any idea if there are better couplers for use with the micro Swiss hot end??I hate the plastic ones. Thanks.
Ahhhhhhhh. You let go of the filament end on the spool. Your spool is now a tangled unusable mess........... ;-) Thanks chuck. Does Capricorn really have a higher heat rating? I have seen internet talk where is does not.
Hello,
how long should the Capricorn PTFE tube be in millimeters for the Ender 3?
Unfortunately I have had to cut mine several times.
Thank you
Can you do a E3D V6 hotend swap? Preferably on your CR-10 mini. :-)
How do I get down on that red tubing! :D
It just occurred to me that you leave the upper connector loose to feed the filament. Duh. I continually struggle to get the filament past that point. Sometimes the simplest things are exceptionally helpful. Thanks.
Personally ive never had that problem and instead cut the filament on an angle, then you have a much smaller point to get into the tube and it makes feeding it in much easier.
How long Capricorn lasted?
Hi Chep
now I have asked the same question twice in this thread without you answering, despite the fact that you have answered other questions as a silent one after I asked mine, it wonders me a bit because you have been in wire
I view comments from a central screen that feeds me lots of questions per day from the 100’s of videos I’ve released and get watched daily. So occasionally I miss a few.
So What’s the question?
I don’t see it when I scroll thru that particular video.
I don't know why but I find it so funny that you use the tools that came with the Ender 3 but have a full garage of tools right there.
Not everybody has my tools and some complained in the past about it so now I use the included tools as much as possible.
for instructions purpose i like that you use the tools that comes with the printer😁
@@FilamentFriday That's really thoughtful of you, thanks!
There are other options. I recently went with Tech Boss tubing. Higher quality at a lower price, in my opinion.
Hey CHEP, I noticed everyone likes to mention the metal teeth as a part of any good coupling; however, on the ender 3 that I just recently purchased a few weeks ago the hot end coupler now has metal teeth. Something that apparently wasn't included a year or so ago. Just something I noticed because a lot of people seem to be giving the coupling a bad rep. Maybe the newer ones aren't so bad?
They did appear to improve them.
after one week the same happens with capricorn couplings.. whats the solution..
The tubes are always too long out of the factory. The shorter, the better. The limit is you don't want the tube to drag the printhead. Short tubes reduces the retractation ratio, and allows flexible filaments with similar print profiles than with direct drive feeders.
I wanna do this to my recently purchased CR10 even though my PTFE tubing is still fine. But after reading several posts in this section, I'm not sure I'd want to.
Why? It's a good upgrade.
Hi Chep. I followed your instructions and I changed for a Capricorn Tubing after mine was damaged. The machine was working very well with no problems before the change. But now, I have under extrusion and my piece is coming apart. Do you have any ideas? Thx
Not sure what piece is but check these: th-cam.com/play/PLRFPlUhDTTlka-Cq-UmI3IbbHRIwG2OsX.html
thank u very muck
When you saw "warm" what temperature are you suggesting? As that's vague and not very helpful.
Fantastic as usual!! There is some discussion about NOT tie wrapping the PTFE tube and wiring together. What's your take?
As long as it’s loose I don’t see an issue.
I was having this same issue he described along with the extruder motor clicking because it was getting jammed up. bought a new hot end with the capricorn tubing for $20 on amazon and its all good now. The kit come with the stock tubing and the capricorn but I dont think this capricorn is needed. the stock worked fine until 2 years of printing wore it out.
Capricorn is good if you plan on printing at high temperatures. If you are gonna pirnt in PLA... Agreed it makes no difference.
Hi Chep,
In the past you posted a video about a short tube inside the heat exchanger.
Now you give this solution.
Which is better?
Nir
Either works. It’s your choice.
Does the length of the bowden tube effect retraction? I ended up just leaving the entire tube as is without cutting it because I had to modify where the roll is on my ender 5 to fit it into an enclosure and I had no measurements. Should I go back and cut it to correct length to stop my stringing?
Some say length matters but I did a test and found it doesn’t matter. th-cam.com/video/DB5b4673GJ0/w-d-xo.html
Chep,
Thank you so much for this video, my printer had a clog that basically ruined my factory setup :/.
Are you aware the kit in the description is $3 dollars more, doesn't include 2 sets of fitting or the blue locks?
I bought the kit anyway to support you but figured you should know!
Yes. They sold out of the previous kit.
RIP. I had the same issue. But my thermistor fried after replacing it.
Any way to get the Red Bowden tube?
Great video, exactly what i was looking for, just one question,What size wrench do you use to remove the fitting?
10mm I believe.
@@FilamentFriday thanks so much for your prompt response. Keep up the great videos.
If you don't have a tube cutter, you can use a brand new razor blade ($1 for 5 pack at home depot). DON'T saw, just slowly slice directly down with firm pressure. You need a really good straight cut if you want it to fit perfectly with no gaps. Took me 10 tries but eventually worked lol.
I had printed the cutter guide initially to do Luke's hot end fix. Used it to ensure my straight cut.
My Ender pro kit came with cutter (light blue one) that worked fine too.