Better Bed Adhesion with a Little Glue Stick
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2021
- Chuck shows you a trick to Better Bed Adhesion with a Little Glue Stick. He explains the benefits of a PVA glue stick. It's a simple trick that some frown on but its saved so many prints from falling of the bed and makes a perfect bed level work as you expect. So watch and see why Chuck is such a fan of glue sticks.
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this guy is like an uncle with all the tips from experience. I learn something useful every time!
Been 7 year's: Elmer's glue stick has been my friend. I have tried all sort of things, always come back to my trusty glue stick
I use Elmers purple, but only because it's real easy to see if you've cleaned it off correctly. If you wipe the bed with a damp kitchen roll and you see purple, wipe some more! I apply the glue only to the area where the print is going to happen, not the whole bed, and usually use two layers at right angles to each other to ensure a good coverage. But I think one carefully applied layer would also work.
you don´t even have to clean it after every print..just a moist sponge to reapply it and then preheat to get rid of the moisture..
I use the purple gluestick too. I paint a zig-zag on the print bed with it then use a slightly wet 1-1/2" paint brush to swirl it around and coat the bed evenly. I make sure to preheat the bed before starting the print job to make sure it is dry. I've printed over 1000 hrs using this method with great results. I liked the hair spray idea, but it seemed to me that the spray would get sucked into the cooling fans and gum them up
Yup, level the bed, clean the bed and use a swipe of glue: works almost every time. When it doesn't, use a raft.
I have found watered-down PVA glue works well. It is water-soluble, so easy to clean off.
This was required when printing things like the articulated lizard, which have tiny footprints for some segments. I had zero success rate before applying a layer of this (just dabbing a paper towel in it then wiping down the bed to leave a layer), and no adhesion problems thereafter.
I quite often apply hairspray and it works also very well. The thing is don't spray it on the bed when its on the printer. That will easily mess up everything. Remove it, spray it on the balcony and done. Very nice video as always Chuck!
PETG was driving me crazy. The Overture build surfaces work perfect for PLA, but PETG was ripping it trying to get parts off, but I would still get warping on large prints
Elmer's glue stick on smooth borosilicate glass works great, believe it or not.
I will try, thanks
after trying quite a few things and leveling the bed a hundred times i tried the glue stick ( had purple on hand) working great ever since.
Hairspray works well if you just spray into a papertowel, then wipe the bed. Doesn't get everywhere. The trick is to just wipe it down to get a thin coat.
That being said I stopped using it when I switched to the Wham Bam PEX surface.
Ya I have PEX on all my enders and no longer use hairspray except for PETG. It sticks too well and so now I add the hairspray to get that barrier so I don't tear the PEX.
Wham Bam is the best upgrade I made to my printer.
Don't really like glue stick when I begin 3D Printer and all the time feel to much work. But once I use it I never stop using it. It's really make my life easier. Thank you for this video 🙂.
I've been printing on a piece of hardware store glass 1\8" thick for a very long time. If everything is level and the bed is clean, I never have any problems. I'll keep this in mind if I start having any issues.
I use thin picture frame glass with Aquanet. So nice!
I just pull the glass off, let it cool, and I can HEAR my print pop off the glass.
Or I rub an ice cube on the bottom of the glass under the print, and speed up the release.
I then put the ice cube back in the freezer, and REUSE my ice cube LOLOLOLOL!
I have used this method for years and it works great. In fact often times I only need to draw an X or O to catch the print. When that isn't enough I use a skirt to show where glue is needed, stop, glue, then restart.
Chep, you are the underappreciated 3D printing wizard of the internet and I thank you for your service
Thank you
Had a bed that had decent warp so I switched to glass. First print usually works well but additional prints would have issues sticking. Cleaned glass and issues persisted. Decided to use glue stick. Between the glass and the glue stick best decisions I could have made. Yeah with glass you do not have the convenience of a flexible removable bed but who cares if I can use a glue stick to get perfect first layers?
Awesome stuff you have on your channel Chuck. You help make this easier for beginners like myself to get going.
After like 6-8 changes to my g-code to try and get this one thing to print, NONE of the options worked until I used the gluestick. I am now team gluestick
Thanks so much! I was having a print that wasn't sticking for like the 5th time in a row and first try after using a glue stick it worked! :)
Love my Elmer's purple for prints with less base surface to help them stick to the bed. Great for use around the brims to help deter lifting. I use Windex Clear with Vinegar to clean any residue from the bed and have had great results so far.
The Avery glue stick recommendation did wonders! No longer do I have issues getting my prints to stay on my print bed! Thank you so much!!!!!!
i tried it chep and its awesome solved my warping issues and everything thank u so much happy printing thanks for all your help
It's incredible how well this actually works.. I had a few glue sticks that said conforms to "ASTM D 4236" that I got from a few filaments I ordered and decided to keep them, and I'm glad I did. I could never get prints that are 0.12mm thin to actually print, so I could never print in super good detail, because it would never stick, since it was such a thin initial layer. I always have done 0.2mm which is decent, but after around 50 prints on my glass bed; the initial layer was never sticking firmly anymore. I wanted to sway from using glue but I didn't realize you could just wipe it off with water after around 4-5 prints and recoat it. You def earned my like.
Been using the Elmers purple sticks and had really good results on my Ender 3 V2. It's easy to see while applying and then clear during the print. I usually apply when the bed is heating up, it goes on easier.
This works wonders. I have a slightly uneven bed and was getting adhesion issues despite how many attempts to level the bed, adjust bed temp, or slow down the initial layer. Some of the purple Elmer's glue stick lightly applied over the entire print area and I have an absolutely pristine first layer.
Lovely Video
Thanks sir!
Thank you for video, I got one good print out of 3 attempts , since than they won't stick or the moving head would catch the filament on bed and rip it off . I have also leveled the bed quite nice
Glue stick for the win!
I had a BL touch that I could not get to work properly. After many hours of troubleshooting and frustration, I reverted back to manual mesh bed leveling and a bit of glue stick. I am getting better first layers than I ever got using the BL Touch. Much happier with manual bed leveling. Thanks for the tip Chep!
I have had the same experience with glue sticks I use the Elmer's Purple. Works Great for me.
I have had Ender 3 V2 only since August 2, so I'm new to this. I've gained a lot from Chep's tips.
Great advice. Worked on my new printer. The first 4 small print jobs worked perfect. Now nothing sticks, tried cleaning to no avail. glue stick just worked!!
When I worked in plastics injection there were multiple different settings that you adjusted to get the right part. Different guys had different settings for their machines but still ended up with good parts.
It was whatever works and a different machines reacted differently along with different weather conditions and material.
Saved my prints thank you
works great, thanks!
Honestly, ever since I bought a heated bed, and placed glass from a $2-3 target frame on top, I've never had adhesion issues. Every print I give it a quick clean with alcohol. Then I updated to an official glass bed. With the heater cooling down, I could lift the entire printer up by the print, it's that strong
Works everytime .
Once applied , after the first print ,
I just dampen a paper towel and gently go over the bed after the print . Good for 4 or 5 prints .
Big help in releasing flexibles .
Thanks for the tip, it really did help.
Thank you Chuck for keeping bed adhesion simple.
Works great for me too without heating the bed for pla.
Thanks, along with your BLtouch and leveling videos have really helped me! I just used a generic random glue stick in a drawer at my work.
I am using the other side of my Ender 3 v2 neo build plate as the top one sticks too well and with glue its awesome
Glue stick is great for prints that might run out of filament. Twice for me, having the print glued down saved it because I was able to adjust in Cura to print the remaining layers. Had the print broken loose, it would have been wasted since there's no way that I'd get the printed part perfectly aligned to it's original position again.
Elmer's Purple for me. I like to thin it out on the bed with a little alcohol. It leaves just enough to hold the print well.
You are a hero my Friend!!!!! I've only done a small amount of 3D printing over the last few years, I even stopped printing for like 2 years because Stuff stopped sticking... I got so mad I was about to buy a whole new printer. But I found your video and IT REALLY WORKS!!! THANK YOU!
hey chuck have you ever tried glue stick, and wiping it across heated bed with a wet napkin? the glue stick can be very thin, in fact with wiping it of (when it is hot) the glue spreads thin and the water evaporates. always good videos. even for some of us that have been around since reprap darwin projects. the video's keep the skills fresh....
I have used glue stick on the glass bed of my Cr-10 and is has worked flawlessly. I did have to wash the glass sheet with soapy water and found I always needed to relevel the bed afterwards. I have since swapped out to a wham bam PEX magnetic bed surface and love it. Yes I do need to rough the surface with steel wool every so often and wipe with ipa but it works great. I rarely need to level the bed anymore. Great video btw. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Well done! Simple and clear. Thanks!
I will be trying the glue stick but I don’t get why rafts stick but printing with out them doesn’t. Hopefully this helps or still have to find my first layer/adhesion problem. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for this tip, it's doing wonders!
I used a glue stick and after a while it was just to difficult to remove and it also failed after a while. Then I tried firm hold hairspray it holds on and I can go layer on layer. It also cleans easy with hand sanitizer alcohol. Every once in a while I still need to level my bed but I think that is just because of the cleaning after using hair spray but that was the case with the glue stick too. Hair spray is also easier to apply. Just a layer or to and we are ready to print. And when it leaves a little imprint after removing the objects you just smooth it with another layer and keep on printing. The glue stick had to be cleaned every time because it lost it's stickiness after one print.
Why would you use hand sanitizer that has other things in it? Why not just use isopropyl alcohol?
Did not know about it until now, or where to get it.
I haven't had to use it yet but if needed, will be glad to try it. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏻
I haven't used glue stick since I installed Energetic PEI magnetic springsteel on my bed months ago. I wash the springsteel with dawn dish soap every couple weeks, and no problems with prints adhering.
I always use something to aid adhesion, usually glue stick. I got tired of applying and cleaning my CR10 S5's large bed so I recently started using Layerneer Bed Weld and I have been really impressed.
thanks for the videos chep, really happy to have found a new hobby as I really dont have many
Okay okay, I never tried before after watching this last night, Decided why not. Wow I really should have tried it sooner. I used purple glue stick on a textured bed. Best print I've gotten out of that bed. Thank you Chuck!
I have used it in the past and it works well. It is a must with petg and glass beds.
Thank you sir , I have the same problem and going to try this out
works great,
no need for brims anymore
I have used the Elmers School Glue and it does work. I will try the Avery some time also. Thanks for the tips!
I recently started printing, in my case with PETG only so far.
My printer is a secondhand FlashForge Finder 2.0 with Micro Swiss hotend and glass surface up.
I have been usung cheap gluestick from the first print, and non have ever come off during print.
Very easy to remove the prints when they are done.
I do wash my bed every time as the bed is so easy to take off on this machine.
Highly recomend the gluestick method for anyone that struggles or don't want any problems.
Have yet to have a failed print. All my prints is done at 220 and my machine is fitted with closed sides by the previous owner. Which do help to keep the temp.
Thankyou so much for posting this. As a novice, its easy to get the impression that "real pros don't use glue sticks" . I tried everything on my ender 3. Bed leveling, frame checks, stepping, different nozzles, temperatures, beds, etc etc etc... The ONLY thing that has worked to get that perfect first layer not to peel was glue sticks. I'm sure there are great professional bed adhesion products out there, but for the noob like me, this advice was a Godsend.
Agreed. Glue stick does have it uses. I used them myself on a cutting board print surface, before I got my 1st comercial printer. Almost every type of glue stick worked, except the most exspensive brand glue stick, called Pritt. Perfect for paper, but not 3D printing.
A touch of hairspray on my creality glass bed, and it sticks like crazy, except ABS....
My BIQU B1 with its SSS springsteel bed works like a charm, but it will wear out.
We must all remember, the only part of your 3D printer that doesn't wear out over time is the extruded aluminum frame....
Great video. As always entertaining, educational to relevant.
Well, I'm a rookie (first week of printing) and I know I have a lot to learn, but I came up with a variation of the glue stick option. It involves the same purple glue, but in a liquid form. I dilute it (about 60% liquid glue-40%water mixed well) with water and then spread it out on the bed. Much more level coating on the bed, it's thinner, and it has only slightly less adhesion. The prints stick, and they are just a little easier to remove. I only use one or two DROPS, so a small bottle of the brew will last for months. It also doesn't make that mound of glue in the middle of the bed that can happen with the glue stick.
Before anyone asks, yes, the water evaporates when you heat the bed (50c is what I use for PLA). Leaving only a thin layer of the glue. It's also a lot easier to rinse off with warm water.
I agree with you CHEP , it works every time 👍👍
My personal preference is a cheap pink *pump bottle* of suave hairspray. It's very easy to control the spray so you don't get over spray all over everything like chep said here. Everyone always refers to cans of "aquanet" type hairspray for some reason, it makes a huge cloud and is bad for the environment so I use pump bottles. If I have a difficult print that pops loose after a couple layers then I'll leave it on and run 3 or 4 single swipes of glue stick where the print will be. Keeps from having to fight it to get it off and 9 times out of 10 it gets the job done.
Glue sticks and other adhesives works not only for sticking, but for proper "releasing". PETG can stick to clean (deoiled) glass so well, so you could get pieces of glass on your model.
Those "glue sticks" that works - are all made on basis of PVP (Polyvinylpyrrolidone) - the same for many "3D spray glues". Those sprays could be made of PVP, isopropanol and some distilled water - very cheap, and gives very nice first layer. Also, for some naughty filaments (like PA or ABS) you could use "polyvinyl butyral phenolic" glue, twice deluted with isopropanol - works like a charm, thin film works nice for several prints, and could be removed by placing glass bed under hot water for several minutes.
Thanks for this video, its made life so much easier I'm no longer having to keep checking my prints every 15 mins :)
My jam is 3M blue painters tape. Works great, can get a fair number of uses before I have to strip it away and place new tape. I use 90% alcohol between prints and a lint free cloth to wipe the surface.
Been using glue stick since I bought my printer 3 years ago.. Works a treat.
A very damp rag can spread the glue nicely... The water dried as the bed heats...
My thoughts - I really wish you would have showed us HOW you apply your glue stick. There are all kinds of different methods shown on TH-cam.
Didn't you hear him? ONE SWIPE!
Literally "swipe" it the same way you'd put it on paper lol.. just make sure not to leave a glob of it. basically using the weight of the gluestick itself, don't push it down or anything. I've printed 5 trees at once and had to cover my entire plate with glue, was a successful 20 hour print.
just like you would do with a piece of paper..slide it out..put it on the bed and swipe..;)
Im quessing 1 swipe over the WHOLE bed not going back and fourth numerous times :)
Ok simple swipe got it. But… showing it being swiped and a print results while explaining it would be the final touch. I’ve tried glue stick with poor results. I went over to Magigoo for its ease of applying. I also went to a pei surface. The recommendation of “ just use glue stick” is never well presented as to one swipe or many. Also on a hot or cold bed.
Chuck has gives his recommendation on what glue stick to try abs that’s a good start for me when my Magigoo is gone!
I’d liked to have seen his favorite glue stick applied and a finished print removal and surface outcome. Fortunately that’s a quick easy update he could add to his next video for all of us that haven’t used glue stick or weren’t impressed the way we were using it.
Any experts can fast forward thru that. Problem solved.
Wow, it just works !
I've spent a whole day to level my bed, configure a temprerature, replace an filament,
googling, a lot of GOOGLING.
But now it works for me.
My first layer sticks well to a bed.
I don't know how to wash the glue from my table , but guess it is possible by
isopropyl or ethanol
Warm water on a cloth washed it right off.
I got Ender 3v2 with the carborundum plate. No matter what I tried all the PLA filaments I had (HatchBox, Overture, and MatterHackers) would warp slightly in corners, even while the rest of the print had good adhesion. I even tried using a brim and while brim would hold great the corners of the actual models would still warp despite the brim.
After almost 2 months of struggling, I decided to flip the bed to the smooth glass side and try glue. Problem solved, no brim needed, the prints stick great and no more warping. So yeah, glue stick is amazing.
My Ender 3 has always struggled with large, full bed prints because they edges will warp. Recently came across this video, and I needed a full bed print. Worked like a charm with Elmer's purple, but I'll try Avery when I run out.
It works great
Thanks. For the tip. I was having a big issue with the prints coming off in the beginning of the print and then right before it finished. I use an ender 3 pro with the platter, ender pad and a glass. Swiped on glue and let sit and started to print. It appears to be working so far on a sample print. My platter is level also.
Thanks so much I sat mine boggled because I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t sticking And just a little bit of Elmers glue worked thank you so much
Elmer's purple glue stick over here as well, even on my PEI coated spring beds (rather than trying to rough them up with steel wool). Works great, haven't had any problems with prints lifting up or sticking too well, and haven't had a PEI coating rip or tear since I started using it. Every month or so I'll clean the beds with soapy water, wipe with IPA, and put down a single layer of glue stick. Saves so much time, effort, and frustration!
Totally agree. Once I found glue stick I never looked back. I print a lot of ABS which is prone to curling and glue stick saves the day every time.
Yup agreed my V2 bed had it 2 weeks and i must have used something bad on the Carborundum Glass bed but was just about to order another bed for $25 i also started adjusting my settings but i use 2 swipes of the glue stick and bang i haven't reapplied yet and I've done 4 prints i might just stick with the glue :) totally agree CHEP and the hairspray sucks as well.
Looking good, great video
Love the channel! This stuff seems complicated at first but you explain it well.
I agree with you completely. I’ve tried many different ways to get things to stick, but using a glue stick has given me far and away the most consistent results. I bought a box of Amazon Basics glue sticks for $5 and they’ve served me well, especially on the first generation Sidewinder that has a smooth glass bed.
Right now printing a 30+ hour print. I tried to print this thing (a big skull, takes the whole ender 3 V2 bed) multiple times before, but always had the problem that the first layer just did not want to stick well. No problems with small prints, bed is level, clean surface. I experimented with a lot of settings to get the first layer perfect but nothing seemed to work. Took me month or so to finally try glue stick and voilà! The first layer was instant success and I was able to finally get this thing printing! I would definitely recommend the glue stick when having these sort of issues. Mine is really cheap stuff but it just works. Had I come across this video a month ago (not possible since time is linear and what not), I would probably have saved a lot of headache! PS its still going at 21 hours right not, fingers crossed it comes out successfully, since I don't have enough filament to try again if it does not ;)
I just watched your video again. And you mentioned that a moist filament doesnt stick very well, and I couldnt agree more, I was having problems with adhesion with one filament in particuĺar unless I really used a lot of glue over the bed. I left it drying for a day, and it was fixed. Now it needs just a bit as usual
I like the glue stick too.. Works like a charm every time
Thks alot, new to this and had problems on my 2nd print 😮 ive already heard for the glue stick metod but was skeptical but thats confirmed what i heard, ive tried and it works🎉
Works great, the only issue I will add that wasn't mentioned. If you are printing on a glass bed and looking for that high gloss finish, the glue will imprint into the print. You still get a very smooth surface, but you can see the glue stick swipes in the reflection. For this particular print I was hoping for that glass finish and only see those concentric patterns on the bottom layer, but still turns out good.
Hairspray works great for me and after a while I just run my bed under some hot water and all the old hairspray comes right off and my bed still looks new and yes you have to be strategic with it make sure it doesnt get on straps and fans but its works for me. I havent tried a glue stick yet because Hairspray worked so well for me. I will try it per your recommendation. Thank you.
I have a friend with a metal bed, this is his go to, never failed him (the purple can stuff with the kangaroo on it)
I switched all of my machines to wham bam spring steel pei. Love it. No glue and no tools to scrap off prints. Sticks great and pops right off when it’s done. The bed isn’t really disturbed when removing the plate so I rarely need to level.
Where did you buy it?
Same here I bought a cheap one form amazon and the creality one. The creality one is by far the best one. Never used glue on it after a year printing everyday its still going strong. The cheap amazon one not so great
@@phucky0o you can either get them from wham bam, they are in Florida or get creality version from amazon. If you ever need to change a pei sheet (I haven’t), you can get replacement sheets from wham bam.
Nice video CHEP, I used glue stick for a while, in fact I still keep one close by, but I found it hard to refresh it, I tried brushing it with water, alcohol, but I always had to keep adding more glue, which in turn meant that I had to remove the bed to wash it from time to time. Now I use sugar in 70% alcohol, I only need 2 light brush strokes to refresh it.
My bed is a hardware store 3mm glass cut to size and I print ABS at 100c bed temp.
I agree with the use of the glue sticks. It hasn’t failed me yet. Great video👍 thanks!
I have been using PEI sheets for ... 5 - 7 years I think. They come stock with LulzBot printers.
I do occasionally "clean" my PEI sheets, using sandpaper and a alcohol/water mixture, to restore the adhesion if I see it going (I don't do if often for the record, maybe a total of 5 - 10 times). Also cleaning them before prints is easy. Isopropyl Alcohol and a a cotton ball. Super easy, and it's a routine.
I use 3d lac spray when using a glass bed, its fantastic
Yup. CHEP is right. Glue Stick WORKS every time. No questions. I have tried many way until one said that the Glue Stick works the best. For better products: Elmer's Glue Stick. I have been doing it since I first applied the stick and didn't had any problems since.
I am a rookie with a CR-10 Mini and the stock glass bed. And have used the Elmer's extra strength glue stick cleaning with Windex and Alcohol each time with a single light "swirly pass" where the model footprint touches with extra attention at the corners and it probably holds too good. And with such light coverage, each stick lasts forever. Will try some lighter sticks and see how they work. Great results for a very flat surface, thanks!
My go-to is TH3D Ezflex PEI. Holds on to PLA & PETG w/o glue. Yes, it worked w/o scuffing for several prints then I had to gently buff it w/ steel wool. Haven't done anything since but clear off fingerprints w/ IPA. YMMV.
I use the WhamBam + Glue stick I discovered this on my own. So it’s good to see you like this also.
Blue glue stick for me on smooth glass for PetG only. PLA seems to stick great to clean glass with no adhesive. I use window cleaner to clean glue stick off glass when done. I noticed isopropyl just dilutes glue and spreads it around then it drys again before I can get it off the glass. Glass cleaner turns the glue blue again and wipes off right away with a paper towel. Thanks for the vids Chep!
True words spoken here, do need to say that I use hairspray and indeed that comes also on parts of the printer you don't want. I'll be using gluestick as well.
Great video Chuck!
Been using Elmers Purple almost since my start. Even after mastering my bed leveling, I would get the occasional pop off; but not since I started the glue stick. I also use Windex with Vinegar glass cleaner to clean off the residue after/before each print. Works great. So far so good.
I’ve been using glue stick also for about a year. Works great!
I use Aqua net hairspray but I have a removable glass bed so I don’t have to spray it near the machine. Works great 👍🏻 I tried the purple glue stick but had a hard time getting an even layer.
Using your bed level Gcode, I found that the corners were fine, but the center was low. I put two layers of painter tape on the bottom of the glass bed, and re-leveled the bed, and got a really good level. Prints since have been really good, and the clue was using gcode which also touches the center of the bed, so thanks very much!
I use glue stick every time too.. but I wash it of after every print. Now I'll try washing it every 5 or 6 prints!!!
I also just fixed a corner I didn't glue very well, by pushing some glue under it and holding it down haha. Glad I'm not the only one doing that!
A $10 piece of ordinary glass on my Ender 3 and glue stick worked like magic. Cheap and very dependable.
I have been using painters tape. It seems a lot less popular but it has been working perfectly for me and seems a lot easier than gluestick. And no issues reusing it for many many prints.