How To Make Your 3d Prints Stick Effectively - Every Method Tested
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ม.ค. 2022
- I compare all the options for guaranteed bed adhesion when all else has failed.
If you just can't get your 3d prints to stick to the bed, I'll show you how all of the most popular methods compare and which is the best.
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I'm new to 3d printing. I have the best wife ever. She gave me a bambu lab P1S FOR X-mass. for days I've tried so many times to print ASA . I've tried no fans, I've tried increasing my temp bed to 100', I've tried a larger brim. I'm using glue stick as we speak and the print is actually staying down, I don't want to celebrate to soon, but I'll know in 40 minutes if this is the secret sauce to my adhesion issues.🤞
My go to its Blue tape, i use it with a magnetic buiild plate and i can go for 20-30 prints without having to consider changing it (and if i do its mostly because im bored). My tape has a very different finish to yours and i really like it
What a thorough series of tests!! Thank you so much. As a noob this video helps a lot. I’ll likely start with the blue tape
Thanks for the chart running alongside. Makes quick info uptake much easier.
Hi Ricky - thanks so much for this info. I am a 3D printer newbie and encountered a problem with the base layer staying in place. The video is very helpful and I now have some knowledge as to what I should (and should not) use on my printer bed. Thanks again!
You are spot on about spray adhesive and the glass bed. I now use a magnetic bed that has a surface simular to what the glass bed has. i think it works amazing. Minimal maintenance and sticks every time. I control my printer remotely so it is super easy to print since there is no bed surface prep required while the printer is warming up.
Recently subscribed, and am very glad I did. Your Sunlu tests and mods, as well as your filament storage information are absolutely top notch. Your 240 volt relay video should be mandatory. Please, keep on keeping on. Content like yours is bound to grow.
Thanks Larry, lots more on the way. Hope you like it as much👍
@@RickyImpey I don't know that many people involved in 3D printing but I'll be certain to give a shout out to those I do.
Great video. Very well structured and delivered. Subscribed.
Thanks you helped me work out which one to get. I actually have to cool down the bed to prevent my cf nylon from warping especially on bigger projects, so I need something stronger at cooler temps, yay spray adhesive!
Tanks a lot for this great and extremely helpful video!
PLA glass plate, $5 hair spray (let it dry first) cold bed, holds like a demon, but you can just wash it a bit to get it off. Glasslike surfaces.. I have a removable bed on my Flashforge.
I use a brand called Fiesta, the purple can. It doesn't look like the messy stuff you have. It was recommended to me by the company that makes the filament I use.
Thank you for your study on this, it's very useful. The first 40 secs of the video, though... gold!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for doing the science :)
My all-time favourite method is double-sided tape
I’m new to all this but the double sided tape idea sounds the best
Do you heat the bed while using it ?
Fantastic, quick to the point video as always 🎉
Incredibly informative. My Bambu Lab has been a pain to understand at times. I'm still just learning. The initial test line will sometimes restick to nozzle and drag to the print, which causes problems. As long as I pull it off before it starts the main event, it'll print mostly fine. My last print (canceled before 1st layer was even done) is a large gear, and while most of it sticks really well, it's only in one tiny little spot that it doesn't stick at all, and ultimately ruins the build.
Biggest problem I've had has been the cooling I believe. Despite turning it almost off, or off entirely, it still acts like it's cooling too fast.
So many variables to deal with all at one time, causes confusion as to what is working and what is not.
I have found that after only 7 months, my stock ender 3v2 glass bed has a shiny spot in the middle which is causing me to have prints lifting. I have some elmers glue stick and think I'll give that a try. I also like to idea of using the untextured side of the glass to get a better finish. Great vid as always.
I just got my 1st printer this last Christmas. I've been using a purple colored Elmer's glue stick my wife had laying around. It works wonders! I don't reapply it every print... Maybe only every 3rd one or so. When it comes time to clean the carborundum I just take a wet paper towel and wipe it down. It smears the old glue stick and it reactivate the glue when it dries. Plus the purple color shows you were you need to wipenit down to a thinner level or away if there is too much built up.
Give the glue a try that way and see how much more you like it. When it comes to removing the part, I just take a few drops of water near the base of the print. The part just falls off! Removing without using water is a bit tricky as it does hold pretty well.
Love your channel and I just printed the parts for your dryer box v2. I've learned a lot from your content and wanted to say thank you!
Great Jeff, thanks for the comment. Yes the purple Elmer's Glue is my favourite too👍
maaaaaaaan I found your video late, but I found it :) nice video
I'm new to 3D printing so take what I say with a grain of salt, but before I even got my first 3D printer I've always heard the best hairspray to use was the O.G. "AQUA NET" fragrance free hairspray that you can get a big can of for about $3 still. I remember that was the original solution to spiking your hair in the 90's. In the 80's people used to make 2 for hair spikes with that stuff lol
You look like an Oblivion character with that lighting.
that was fascinating
Just got a textured PEI plate and a hardened steel nozzle, both of which make it easier for the first layer to not adhere properly. The PEI sheet is designed to release prints easily but a side effect is print warping/releasing them while printing. Hardened nozzles, even the E3D nozzle X which supposedly has an anti-stick coating, tends to grab the first layer and rip it off the build plate. Combine these two factors and it becomes extremely easy to mess up the first layer unless you use a high temperature for the heat bed and print the first layer extremely slow at only 1-3 mm/s, as well as having to add mouse ears to sharp corners to prevent warping further.
People who say it's bad to use adhering additives probably have never changed out their stock parts, I probably wouldn't use them with the stock setup either but with aftermarket upgrades, they make things a lot faster and easier most of the time.
On my bad surface I had on my Tronxy X5SA, I found Gold UEETEK Tape. the heat proof electronics tape. It worked well to stick down my prints on the big Tronxy 13 inch bed.
Then later I got a Ultra Flex Rubber like magnetic bed from Tronxy. it's only problems were that fact that after 75 C on the bed the edges curled up so I had to use the 4 small string clips that came
with the original metal bed to hold down the new magnetic bed fully on the edges.
Try's to find a 13 inch square PEI magnetic bed is very hard indeed.
A cool follow up to this would different build plate materials, (glass, PEI, etc). You could even test the most common combinations of build plate + glue/spray/etc though that is an awful lot of testing to do.
Something to note, Creality say on their website you must not use alcohol to clean the carborundum side of the Ender 3 V2 glass bed. I reckon a lot of issues people have with this glass is down to people not knowing this and gradually worsening their carborundum coating over time. I just use water and a microfiber cloth to clean PLA off mine and other than warping (aided by the cold room temperature) which I just use a brim to fix (also thoroughly primes the nozzle), I've had no adhesion issues.
Yes, I would like to test all the different beds like you say. I've never used anything but glass cleaner or soap and water on the carborundum coating and I think you are right, many people damage them using something else.
@@RickyImpey I use 70% alcohol to clean my ender 3 v2, so ive been destroying my print bed?
Lol. You got me with the "coming clean" sob story
Lol, just a bit of fun🙂
Very thorough analysis! I'd love to try TPU but my Neptune3 Pro has a textured PEI bed and there are plenty of pics/vids of people ripping chunks out of the sheet coating and destroying it trying to get TPU off it because it bonds so tightly. I'm terrified of destroying my still-perfect PEI sheet! Would gluestick or tape be the answer here? If so, do you have to relevel the Z before printing especially after applying tape?
Hey, thaks a lot for the video. I also try to clean the bed with dishes soap and it worked very nice
Glad it helped
Hey Ricky, I was thinking about switching to the 3DLAC (which I suppose is a mix of hair spray and spray adhesive) from the glue stick, but I was not sure about it, because it is a spray and hard to apply precisely and thanks to your video I decided to “stick” 😉 with the glue stick, thank you 🙏
Gonna have to try this cheers! New to 3D printing and despite spending hours cleaning the bed, levelling the bed, rinse & repeat, my prints refuse to stick!
Great Video
This was a great video but just one question does the blue tape have to be double sided?
Try strong hold hairspray from palette, it sticks like a super glue and first time removal is a pain but after that it's OK (it sticks reliably when it's hot and you can remove the print with a relative ease when it colds). and can be reused for a couple of weeks. I've tried the very strong hold too but I had mixed results. (Ender 3 v2 glass bed)
With glass bed you mean the other side of the bed right?
@@V..X.. Ofc don't spray the metal plate :P
Thanks for the brutally honest, well done and thorough review. I recently purchased an Ender 3 S1 Pro and found the flexible plate to have more failed prints than my CR6SE Creality tempered glass build plate. Might try that plate on my Ender 3 (measuring there is still a 1/4" clearance between the posts so it should fit if clamped down). But have never tried glue sticks or any other means. Didn't need to with the CR6. I have resorted to Rafts for any print with a small parts or smallish base - especially if taller print. Adjusted leveling and Zed offsets way too many times . Time to try glue stick. Curious if any Canadian's have a preferred brand. Elmer's 60509q Extra Strength Office Glue Stick is available as is their standard glue stick, the purple colour changing type, and UHU glues. Staples house brand is readily available too. I hear Avery is good but not available easily (Amazon will import it but at high cost).
I can't help on the Canadian brands but I always try for a PVA based glue stick option as it's much easier to clean up with only water. I'm surprised you have adhesion issues with the S1 Pro. I found mine to be the best of all my printers for adhesion. Have you tried giving it a good clean with soap and water?
I print with a smooth glass surface and use a light Spritz of hairspray. I use that for all of my materials, although, for pla, no adhesion is necessary if your levels are set correctly.
You must have definitely used some poor hairspray.
Another benefit to the hairspray is that it can be used for multiple prints and then you can simply just spray more right on top and keep going.
Appreciate the video. Been using 3dlac+ which is basically hairspray (though it smells more like MEK and acetone than ethanol, so maybe there's something else in it) in a pump-spray bottle and without the stink. Couldn't find any hairspray that would work and figured that if I could find a compatible hairspray I'd have spent more on that than a specific adhesive. It practically sucks filament down onto the bed, though parts stick almost too well and I usually need to tap them off 'gently' with a scraper.
I'm probably going to buy some methyl-ethyl ketone and try dissolved PLA as a surface. I got the printer used and I assume the coating creality allegedly put on the bed (I doubt they do anything special personally) has been wiped off with iso-alcohol.
A solvent with the specific polymer being used in a print is print (PLA, PETG, ABS/ASA, TPU and Nylon) is probably the best material to use for adhesion. Once applied to the bed the solvent will evaporate and since the plastic layer on the bed is the same as the one being applied it'll 'wet' to the bed just like solder that has a good amount of flux.
You'll need a few different solvents to dissolve each plastic, but with this you may get better first layer adhesion.
I was send a bottle of 3dlac but haven't tried it yet. I must give it a try.
Glass mirror with higher temp first layer works for me. I tried hairspray and glue stuck. Abandoned them after I got it to stick so well with the mirror.
I've always used Tresemme No4 hairspray with good results on a glass bed. After watching your video, I'm now trying Pritstick glue, applied and then rubbed smooth with a wet wipe. Seems to work just as well.
Ok thanks 👍 I still use a little glue stick sometimes but have also found 3dlac to be good. It's very similar to hairspray.
Always learn from your videos, your DIY filament dryers are the best I have seen. Alas lesser so from this one. Until you buy the correct hairspray scoring it on your scorecard determining "which is the best" is moot. In South Africa my goto is Fiesta Extreme Control and it would have scored near the top in every single test category that you put forth, at least for PLA+, SBS & PETG. My experience and many participants on the SA 3D Printers forum is in stark contrast to your test results. Other than an E3 vs an E5 my kit is identical to your test setup.🙏
Hi Den, yes it's a shame that we don't seem to be able to get the same types of hairspray in the UK. I don't know if there is a crucial ingredient that is not allowed here but I tested a few others off camera with the same results. I'm happy to re-visit this test with any other options if I can get hold of a hairspray that someone recommends that works.
Well, having a brim to start on the print helps me, mainly because it gives me a spot to put tape on, so I know it'll stay sticking in one spot. I actually use, for normal, hairspray. I'm using Garnier Fructis Full Control, which is a 4 of 5 scale on holding. It doesn't give me a problem with the smell as much as the Tresemme Freeze Hold, which is 5 of 5 for holding. I normally will not use anything that requires water on the 3d printer (ender 5 pro here), so I agree with not wanting to use salt or sugar.
Excellent tests. Would never think salt would be a great adhesion substrate. How much salt is used? I think using salt is safe, simply take it to a different room, apply it there and allow it to dry then bring it back to the 3D printer room. I think messing with glue stick is worse than salt in the electronics room.
Go glue stick!
I've been using a standard glue stick that happen to come with a multi-color PLA pack I ordered off Amazon. Works great but a little soapy water to wash it off after a few prints is a good idea. Use a cloth towel, not a paper one, as you can create an even bigger headache.
Been printing for 6 years now Started with Tape... went to glass.. Pei .. then back to tape.
As it's Chjeap Easy and 100% reliable. Never owned glues or sprays of any descrittion.
Never.. Ever had need as Tape simply works.. period.
🎉🥳 finally my print stayed down. Glue stick worked.
I personally have had zero problems with hair spray and holds great when hot and when it cools the print pops off on its own
Very thorough video. I vote for purple glue stick.
A wise choice 😉
Ricky thank you and you had me laughing ….
Interesting, my experience with spray adhesive, hairspray and glue stick is shuffled (applied to bare glass): glue stick makes a mess, hairspray (Garnier extra strong) is super reliable and usable several times also with ABS, and spray adhesive (Dimafix) also reliable, but only at higher temps (and smells terribly, I use it only if essential).
Thanks for the tests.
Yeah I used the wrong hairspray, it's not something I'm very experienced with myself. I'd like to try again at some point so I'll try the Garnier one if I do, thanks👍
I'm using "Schwarzkopt 5" and it works great!
clean PEI works great.
good vid man, when you say blue tape, do you mean painters tape? (in uk) ...ive just got a 3d printer and nothing at all is holding it in place ,with bed levelled etc....
Hi, the stuff I found that worked was the blue 'Scotch' brand. They are all a little different so it can be trial and error if you try anything else.
@@RickyImpey cheers man, i,ll try that then.....nice one.
Ive been glue stick only when really small areas need help, Most my prints have no issues sticking , oh and adding skirts or brims at times
I share your concern about salt, but why would dry sugar promote bacteria? They always need moisture.
Love gluestick. My kids give me crap over me buying gluestick by the case lol
I've tried every brand of painters tape that is sold near meet and none work well. Oddly enough the one that works best is the cheap stuff from the dollar store, but none seem to be able to remain stuck to the bed long enough to complete a print job. Glue sticks though give me great results. But based on what I saw hereI think I might try is glue sticks combined with salt.
I'm gonna try a couple of glue sticks for a print I'm. Trying to do that's just not behaving.
It's an elephant status and the every time it hops between legs on the first it looses the first layer and goes wrong fast.
Also, sugar is hydroscopic (hygroscopic?), so it's going to draw in moisture over time and potentially get gooey.
I have just started and on my 2nd print. I have the Ender 3v2 with glass bed. I have been running with the Carb up. My problem has been too good adhesion with it. Only way to get it off right now is dental floss. I have tried freezer and reheating the bed. Feels like I am going to pull the glass off with it. Any suggestions?
A PVA based glue stick can act as a barrier to prevent prints sticking too well. You could always flip the bed and print on the plain glass too.
@@RickyImpey I will try both, thanks you!
Would honey work?
I have a Anycubic kobra go would a glue stick work still :0
Yes, it would work with any type of bed. Just make sure you use a water washable one (PVA).
Pretty surprising. By the way, PVA grows bugs just about as bad as sugar does. You could include a touch of citric acid or another biocide if you were really worried.
I use hairspray and have ever had a problem.
Lidl hairspray seems good.
Which one Chris, I'll pick some up.
@@RickyImpey Cien - Maximum Hold 400ml, big gold can, the cheapest one they had.... It rinses of easily taking any print residue with it. 🖖
I do glue stick a lot. the only complaint I have with glue stick is sometimes I pit it on a little too thick. I wish glue stick wasn't so soft though,
Hairspray. It's the correct answer. Works every time.
Out of curiosity is that double sided painters tape?
No, just single sided, the filament grips to the paper side.
@@RickyImpey oooh ok thank you!
I tried glue and it sucks I still have prints not sticking next I will try the tape
🖖 👍
3M blue painters tape for me works better than the glue stick. YMMV.
Wham Bam PEX please
I have got e3 s1 pro. In my case fillament stopped sticking in the centre of the bed. It started when i cleaned the bed is isopropyl alcohol and multipurpose cleaner. It still sticks ok if it is further away from the centre. I setup bed using your video and issue still occurs. Just spent 2h trying to solve it. So annoying 😒
I generally only ever clean removable beds with soap and water. I would try that before anything else more drastic.
@@RickyImpey thank you.
Ha! i got so pissed off i used Tite bond wood glue for a print that refused to stick.
I always use glue stick when my prints are being rude and not sticking.
i just use hair spray and its noice
I use glue stick all the time 🙂. Printing Nylon CF onto Borosilicale glass I use 6 coats of Elmer's Purple.
need ABS
auto leveled
I use wood glue. Simply because that's all I have.
I don't use anything and I always need to make a humungous amount of effort just to take those things out of the bed (so much so that I need to level it every time after the prints).
And y'all need to make it to stick *more* to the bed? 🤔
Some do, if you struggle to remove prints, PVA glue stick can help as water makes it release. I spray a little water or glass cleaner at the base and it dissolves.
None of this works!
The best thing is never buy a 3D printer. None work and I don’t need 200 toy plastic boats...
absolute best method??? just print a raft and be done with all this tripe...
😂😂
You don't need this. Use a pei bed. If it won't stick after a while. Sand the pei bed with 3000grit wet sandpaper till it gets milky or cloudy . You won't need these items.