You’re probably the first 3d print channel that explained the paper drag when you manually level and that blew my mind because no one shows how much drag is too much and how much is too little. 10/10 great for beginners
I just started with this hobby and it baffled me everytime I attempt to do bed leveling with paper. The filament constantly wanting to ooze out the nozzle also didnt help
I always question how much is too much or too little. Like there is no visual on what it's supposed to look or feel. Maybe you can't feel things through video literally, but with a clear demonstration on what it looks like can give you and idea on what you will see and feel.
You sir are the man we need in the 3D printing community. Everything you mentioned is very informative. After scratching my head a few times trying to fix my Ender 3s, I finally got it going again. You are a god among men. 10/10
My bed was bent severely and I couldn’t get it leveled, tried and tried and tried and kept trying, this video finally saved me from throwing the printer out a window. Thanks for the very detailed video 👍
My expectations were really low with how poorly my troubleshooting was going, but the glue stick trick solved it completely. I'm amazed! Thank you very much.
I would like to say *THANK YOU* for showing this paper drag trick because after a few successful prints with my Prusa i3 MK3 I started having issues with prints not sticking and it was inevitably making a huge mess every time. I had used the first layer calibration tool several times and both the lines/angles and the square being printed looked pretty good, or so I thought. I turns out that when I tried the manual Z-axis calibration with a piece of paper the Z-axis delta was significantly different from the measurement I got with the first layer calibration tool. From this point on, I've had no issues with prints sticking and I've been so happy with this printer. Thanks again!
Yes, you are right, leveling the bed was my problem.. My problem was the adjustable pulley behind the bed, it was very loose, and the bed was shacking.. Thanks for posting.. Subscribed..
Tell me about it. It has me driven crazy. I found the secret is the middle. Even if all the corners seem correct and the middle is tight it means it's all wrong. Like I said driven crazy. But R2D2 is worth it. I think...lol
I'm new to 3D printing -having fun by the way. Purchased a Monoprice 111P this past Christmas. Been searching for a site like this and I've hit the mother-load ... Thanks for these tips because I've had a problems with the first layer. I would scrape elmer's glue on the bed - it worked. But it was a mess. The glue stick is the best for me. Keeping the bed clean is the next challenge. Thanks.
Yup...first 2 prints were perfect, then all of a sudden, I couldn't get anything to stick to save my life. Leveled the bed, tried different temps, cleaned the bed, tried everything I can think of. Found this vid...will give it a shot with a Post-It Note and make sure I'm not printing too fast and we'll see if I'm back up and running. Thanks!!
being into this hobby for 8 months and owning two different size printers i have fixed every issue i have had... several things must be done for prints to stick well... mainly make sure you have a flat build plate, level it with a good amount of squish so first layer bonds well, make sure your nozzle and bed temps are set correctly... make sure your build plate is clean etc... those are the basics...You must have a good file that is sliced well also... Machine's have to put together well,belts and roller adjusted and everything nice and tight etc... But there are many other factors... the more problems you have to figure out the better you get at fine tuning your machines...
I was suffering with default Ender 3 bed sheet and the bed itself. Switched to mirror and it was fixed, everything started to make sense. Ever since i've had troubles because of buildup of hairspray... So any gap you can see is going to be too much. Use good ruler, shine a light behind it and see for yourself.. Oh, i'm using 12mm/s on the first layer.. it is slow but it is worth it.. And use hairpsray on the mirror, it leaves smoother finish. Use glue sticks on the default Ender3 bed as it really helps. Using isopropyl alcohol and water as a mist will renew the glue stick surface for multiple times but even that won't give you more than 5 or 6, it just evens out the marks left behind by the previous print.. But there is no way i'm switching from mirror+hairspray very soon, it is way too foolproof and the finish is immaculate.
Thanks. I plugged in my elegoo 3 and ran it right out of the box and it worked fine. I monkeyed with it to make it better and I'm still trying to get it back to the way it was😊
The advice on bed leveling can't be understated. I'm new to 3D printing and my Ender 3 Pro worked perfectly after assembly. One day, I noticed the main bed support was loose and tried to tighten it, but I must have done something wrong. NOTHING would stick after that except the test lines on one side. I tried everything except glue and eventually solved it by completely dissembling the bed removing it from the belt, checking it for warps, and then re-assembling slowly using a level. It's pretty much back to what it was now. To perfect it, I will install a BLT Touch, but at least I can print again.
Help, I feel like the same thing my top left is way loose it even fell off, I used it fine til that happened, now i get level it and my black filament is coming out white? Or is etching? Plz someone
Wanted to thank you for the suggestion with the bed being hot and then adding the glue stick, it worked like a charm. Printer is getting back to work finally.
Thank you so much. Three minutes into the video and my problem was identified. Did what you said and my Ender 3 is back to perfect prints again. Thank you so much.
This would have been so much helpful if this was the first video that came up the search for "print won't stick." So, so many great tips and techniques. Thank you.
Absolutely a sanity saver! So useful and it looks like I am having success at last! I know you posted this a long time ago - nevertheless it is just what I needed. Thank you.
I tried a new filament today, the specs said that I should print with 70-80 bed temp and 230-250 hot end. There was no way to print with these settings, and I tried for at least 2-3 hours of trying to level the bed as best as possible. Finally "thanks to your video" I tried to increase the heat in both bed and hot end to 255 and 90 and the print finally stick to the bed and print perfectly. Thanks for the tips, the part that the filament might not come out correctly because of low temp really helped me.
I've got PETG with those temps and really struggle with it at around 230-240, 70-80. I suppose I could try hotter, but I heard the Bowden tube plastic really doesn't like to be hotter than 240.
Nice work on the 3-D intro. I tried an old glue stick from my junk drawer....went on thick.....the nozzle cut rows in it, like an Iowa cornfield....nostalgic. Finally went to tape over glass, and that is working well.
I've watched a dozen bed leveling videos. This is one of them, but your idea of putting tape under the glass is brilliant. I have 2 Ender 3 printers. They are slightly different from each other. But, in buying glass beds for them I thought all my troubles would be over. Yeah right. Thanks for the help.
I gave up on the glass bed early on and bought a magnetic sheet. It had a rougher texture and kept my prints attached. I tried glue sticks and blue tape on the glass and it just made a mess without helping.
I was having trouble getting the bed level.. Then I found a tiny piece of PLA debris on the center of the aluminum base plate. I discovered early on that preheating helped alot, you are the only one that includes that important tip!
I bought a ender 5 two weeks ago ( never owned or played with a 3D printer) I took my time putting it together making sure the rails were flush to each other then I put it down and leveled the frame up then leveled the bed. There was to be a test print on the card but I don’t think/seen it so I just went ahead and printed a small cat figure and was amazed how awesome it came out first try. I think a lot of people just slap crap together and expect it to work. If frame is not all square and level you can’t have a level bed and you just make things harder for yourself. PS if you are thinking about getting a 3D printer DO IT!!! I wish I would of got one earlier. For past two weeks mine has been running none stop and I have huge list of things to print. I didn’t know if it was gonna be a waste of money that I’d use a couple of times but now I know it absolutely awesome tool. Everyone should have one, can make pretty much everything.
I have a cheap Prusa Mini, it has automatic bed leveling. I really hate using glue stick. I hate the mess and work of getting it all off my build plate but it does work. I have tried EVERYTHING to get PLA to stick to my bed without using a glue stick. I've tried PEI coated, Non-PEI coated, textured, smooth, basically any compatible build plate I could find. I am 100% sure my layer height is correct. So far ive been using Prusament and amazonbasic filament with Prusa's preset filament parameters for those specific filaments. I'm starting think something may be off on my printer. I wish I knew how to calibrate the temperature sensors or at least verify they are reading correctly. PETG sticks almost TOO good, PLA sticks not at all. Because of that I primary print in PETG. Just sucks, I wish I could figure how to print in PLA easily, without glue. Until then ill continue to use PETG. Thanks for the tips.
Late to the party I guess but I only got my Adventurer 3 last night. Got a successful 3DBenchy on the 2nd go by using a laminating pouch cut to the size of the heatbed and held in place with a few blobs of UHU glue stick. The inside of the laminating pouch is a perfect base for the plastic to stick to.
I found that just a little more presser on the paper(still move easy) That I do not need anything to hold my print down . Thanks for the video you do a great job. Great sound. Hard to find youtube video you can hear.
If your filament is not sticking when going in circular motions, you will need to lower the bed. I did this and it is now printing perfect circles. I assume you will also need to consistently level the bed if you have a new printer due to the fluctuations in length of the springs for the bed, due to a shifting k factor from temperature change.
I have found this the BEST video explaining this, I still am having issues but very good video. Thank you and keep up the good work my friend!! You are a good teacher, you explain things very well! Subscribed.
I just bought a Ender 3 Pro it prints the sample prints just fine but when I try to print any thing else it doesn’t stick. I am going to try these solutions and maybe I can enjoy printing anything other plastic dogs and cats and pigs . I know what everyone is getting for Christmas this year.
I made one of the biggest rookie mistakes when starting to print on glass. I never cleaned the surface for a week till my prints started not sticking and I at one point wanted to return the printer since I tried to fix everything I could think of. Simple alcohol and paper towel fixed it for me after 4 days of hair pulling
Thanks. The test prints included with my printer printed great but anything bigger than the dog or pig would end up with the filament dragging all over the bed. When I was leveling the bed I wasn't letting the paper drag enough because I didn't understand how much drag I actually need. Now my 3d printer upgrades are printing good. 😁
I was trying things to get my Prints To Stick, It Seemed To Come Off When Turning A Corner, Then I Remember From My Automotive Background, Tack Cloth For Painting Cars! Worked Like A Damn Champion!!! It's Cheap And It Works, Little 91 Percent Alcohol And It Comes Right Off!! It's Just What I Use, And The Price Is Damn Fine!
Using ender3 v2 and devil craft PLA filament, tried glue didnt work, brand new glass bed didnt work, then increased nozzle temp from 200 to 220 and works perfectly
Than you for an excellent video. I have just purchased a Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, and successfully completed some prints with the white PLA that came with the printer, having followed this and numerous other tutorials. I purchased some Sunlu Blue PLA and just cannot get it to stick. When the printer initially creates a single test line towards the edge of the bed, this line sticks very well. When the nozzle then moves more towards the centre of the bed to print the object, the filament does not adhere very well at all. I have repeatedly adjusted the level of the bed and the Z offset but cannot get this blue filament to stick. As soon as I re-insert the default white that came with the printer it sticks fine.
I am super thankful for you explaining this exactly as I thougt the bed needs readjusting pretty often, what I have been thinking of that there should be a 5th support in the middle because I feel like my buildplate is bowing down there on my crealitu ender 5 s1. I am going to readjust things once again :)
I use GLASS. I also use METAL tape..the chrome type...to secure the glass. I wash the glass..with soap and water...rinse it well..then use rubbing alcohol on the glass thendry it. I use the elmers spray glue...2 LIGHT coats on the glass...I let it dry for about 40 minutes..then i use elmers glue stick...i apply between 4 and 6 coats. You normally almost have topRY the print off of the bed. I just run it under warm water for about 5 minutes and the parts breaks free. hope this was helpful.
im suprise how well you introduce that problem :) in start video i was preparing for close and select next video. But what i hear sound some professional . Nice. You talk about many things how to do that well.. best way will be to show in program and show on printer. Like you said.. you mostly record that for begginer. Take care
Using ABS I had too much trouble to get prints to stick.. That was Until I started using Standard grade yellow ABS cement, on my bed. The best part is that it will auto release once bed cools down. Also I am using 1/4 inch thick glass bed, with a heater bellow it.. I tried cleaning, tried glue sticks. But ABS cement works the best, as when you get too much, the hot end will melt into it... does cause some clicking in the feed unit at start, and this cement adds a layer to the works... Hope this helps some of you.
Thanks for the great video, it helps me a lot and my print after following the different steps and settings was perfect again. I put 2 M3 paper parts under my printbed on the right spots and the bed is perfect levelled again. 👍💪👌
Glass or aluminum or steel bed with Zillagrip coating glue allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM PC with one glue coating adhesive
I just realized, few times I unstuck the prints by bending the stock print surface, it looks like some kind of glass fiber so i assume i bent it just few microns and threw leveling off. I'll buy myself a proper print surface.
I am so so new at this and your channel is helping me to better understand it all much better.... When you talk about settings for the first layer am i doing it on my ender3 settings, or an outside program?
Used the preset prints for the ender 3 pro. Bed isn’t hot enough and I can’t change it because the print is already set. So I have to make my own and mess with my setting to find the right ones
i use the kokoni ai 3d printer and its not sticking to the bed and it wont print when connected to wifi keeps saying failed to print and it only will print in offline mode
The top and bottom corners of my bed are set to the lowest level, but the extruded is still pretty hard on the bed. I can’t adjust further then that. What does that mean and what should I do?
Thank you for the narrative story on how thing are working with paper drag. Just a question: Should I turn the heater bed off and apply the Elmer's Glue Stick and go ahead with printing without heated bed? Thank again!
go to home depot and buy some mirror tile a little bigger than your build plate, you might need a glass cutter if it's too big. Use blue tape UNDER the glass until it's perfectly level, check with a metal ruler. Level the bed and clean with rubbing alcohol before every print. You will never have a problem again
i heat bed to 80, put a layer of hot melt glue on bed...then turn off heat all-together, wait till it hits under 40 then print...with cold bed cura bed set to 0...when you have finished print heat up again to 80 then remove...simple..
Just got a cr 10 mini the bed is nice and level but I cannot get the nozzle to touch the paper as you say it will. Also where the nozzle is that piece is crooked slightly. I have all the twist screws under as tight as possible and still cannot get the bed closer to the nozzle.
My issue is that while three of my corners are level the top right corner is tightended to the max and is still not level. Further after leveling the corners the center is off. What could be the problem?
You’re probably the first 3d print channel that explained the paper drag when you manually level and that blew my mind because no one shows how much drag is too much and how much is too little. 10/10 great for beginners
i agree, thanks alot for showing that, no one's ever really explained how to properly do that.
you really just blew my mind with this simple explenation of how much drag on paper its like it was a secret
i was about to comment this, this tip was very helpful, thanks!
I just started with this hobby and it baffled me everytime I attempt to do bed leveling with paper. The filament constantly wanting to ooze out the nozzle also didnt help
I always question how much is too much or too little. Like there is no visual on what it's supposed to look or feel. Maybe you can't feel things through video literally, but with a clear demonstration on what it looks like can give you and idea on what you will see and feel.
Trending on the top list and it is 5 years later... And it shows. Your video is simple, clear and straight to the point. Thank you!
This guy looks exactly like I would expect someone whose name is Richard Cleveland to look like
You sir are the man we need in the 3D printing community. Everything you mentioned is very informative. After scratching my head a few times trying to fix my Ender 3s, I finally got it going again. You are a god among men. 10/10
My bed was bent severely and I couldn’t get it leveled, tried and tried and tried and kept trying, this video finally saved me from throwing the printer out a window. Thanks for the very detailed video 👍
How do you check if your bed is bent?
@@typhoonblitz5797 steel ruler
My expectations were really low with how poorly my troubleshooting was going, but the glue stick trick solved it completely. I'm amazed! Thank you very much.
I would like to say *THANK YOU* for showing this paper drag trick because after a few successful prints with my Prusa i3 MK3 I started having issues with prints not sticking and it was inevitably making a huge mess every time. I had used the first layer calibration tool several times and both the lines/angles and the square being printed looked pretty good, or so I thought. I turns out that when I tried the manual Z-axis calibration with a piece of paper the Z-axis delta was significantly different from the measurement I got with the first layer calibration tool. From this point on, I've had no issues with prints sticking and I've been so happy with this printer. Thanks again!
Yes, you are right, leveling the bed was my problem.. My problem was the adjustable pulley behind the bed, it was very loose, and the bed was shacking.. Thanks for posting.. Subscribed..
Thanks for the explanation. I was having issues printing. Re-calibrated and it is working now.
When I first got into this I had no idea something as simple as bed leveling would be so complicated
Forreal this is crazy. I’m in tho lol
same bro, same. 😂 🤦🏻♂️
Amen
Tell me about it. It has me driven crazy. I found the secret is the middle. Even if all the corners seem correct and the middle is tight it means it's all wrong. Like I said driven crazy. But R2D2 is worth it. I think...lol
I find using a piece of paper works well for levelling. When you move the paper under the nozzle, it needs to have a bit of resistance 😄
I'm new to 3D printing -having fun by the way. Purchased a Monoprice 111P this past Christmas. Been searching for a site like this and I've hit the mother-load ... Thanks for these tips because I've had a problems with the first layer. I would scrape elmer's glue on the bed - it worked. But it was a mess. The glue stick is the best for me. Keeping the bed clean is the next challenge. Thanks.
Yup...first 2 prints were perfect, then all of a sudden, I couldn't get anything to stick to save my life. Leveled the bed, tried different temps, cleaned the bed, tried everything I can think of. Found this vid...will give it a shot with a Post-It Note and make sure I'm not printing too fast and we'll see if I'm back up and running. Thanks!!
being into this hobby for 8 months and owning two different size printers i have fixed every issue i have had... several things must be done for prints to stick well... mainly make sure you have a flat build plate, level it with a good amount of squish so first layer bonds well, make sure your nozzle and bed temps are set correctly... make sure your build plate is clean etc... those are the basics...You must have a good file that is sliced well also... Machine's have to put together well,belts and roller adjusted and everything nice and tight etc... But there are many other factors... the more problems you have to figure out the better you get at fine tuning your machines...
But not too tight as I found out the hard way last week.
Right after you explained the paper buckling, I tried it, and it fixed! You deserve more attention my dude.
I was suffering with default Ender 3 bed sheet and the bed itself. Switched to mirror and it was fixed, everything started to make sense. Ever since i've had troubles because of buildup of hairspray... So any gap you can see is going to be too much. Use good ruler, shine a light behind it and see for yourself.. Oh, i'm using 12mm/s on the first layer.. it is slow but it is worth it..
And use hairpsray on the mirror, it leaves smoother finish. Use glue sticks on the default Ender3 bed as it really helps. Using isopropyl alcohol and water as a mist will renew the glue stick surface for multiple times but even that won't give you more than 5 or 6, it just evens out the marks left behind by the previous print.. But there is no way i'm switching from mirror+hairspray very soon, it is way too foolproof and the finish is immaculate.
Thanks. I plugged in my elegoo 3 and ran it right out of the box and it worked fine. I monkeyed with it to make it better and I'm still trying to get it back to the way it was😊
The advice on bed leveling can't be understated. I'm new to 3D printing and my Ender 3 Pro worked perfectly after assembly. One day, I noticed the main bed support was loose and tried to tighten it, but I must have done something wrong. NOTHING would stick after that except the test lines on one side. I tried everything except glue and eventually solved it by completely dissembling the bed removing it from the belt, checking it for warps, and then re-assembling slowly using a level. It's pretty much back to what it was now. To perfect it, I will install a BLT Touch, but at least I can print again.
Man, i have the same problem, the SIDE line it's ok but in the middle cant stick, i level the bed mannualy but nothing, i'm so frustrated
Help, I feel like the same thing my top left is way loose it even fell off, I used it fine til that happened, now i get level it and my black filament is coming out white? Or is etching? Plz someone
Wanted to thank you for the suggestion with the bed being hot and then adding the glue stick, it worked like a charm. Printer is getting back to work finally.
Thanks for your tips. The problem I had was twofold: bed was not level and bed temp was too hot i.e. at 68C. adjusted the two and now works great.
Thank you so much. Three minutes into the video and my problem was identified. Did what you said and my Ender 3 is back to perfect prints again. Thank you so much.
thank you for the tips...I'm brand new to 3D printing and I was having issues with bed adhesion...the glue stick worked like a charm.
This would have been so much helpful if this was the first video that came up the search for "print won't stick." So, so many great tips and techniques. Thank you.
Sir, I truly appreciate you. As a first time printer your videos have been so damn helpful. Thank you for all you do.
Absolutely a sanity saver! So useful and it looks like I am having success at last! I know you posted this a long time ago - nevertheless it is just what I needed. Thank you.
I tried a new filament today, the specs said that I should print with 70-80 bed temp and 230-250 hot end.
There was no way to print with these settings, and I tried for at least 2-3 hours of trying to level the bed as best as possible. Finally "thanks to your video" I tried to increase the heat in both bed and hot end to 255 and 90 and the print finally stick to the bed and print perfectly. Thanks for the tips, the part that the filament might not come out correctly because of low temp really helped me.
I've got PETG with those temps and really struggle with it at around 230-240, 70-80. I suppose I could try hotter, but I heard the Bowden tube plastic really doesn't like to be hotter than 240.
Nice work on the 3-D intro. I tried an old glue stick from my junk drawer....went on thick.....the nozzle cut rows in it, like an Iowa cornfield....nostalgic. Finally went to tape over glass, and that is working well.
Too funny. Cedar Rapids,Ia.
Bravo. I watched over a dozen videos and you were the only one who discussed all my concerns.
I've watched a dozen bed leveling videos. This is one of them, but your idea of putting tape under the glass is brilliant.
I have 2 Ender 3 printers. They are slightly different from each other. But, in buying glass beds for them I thought all my troubles would be over. Yeah right.
Thanks for the help.
I gave up on the glass bed early on and bought a magnetic sheet. It had a rougher texture and kept my prints attached.
I tried glue sticks and blue tape on the glass and it just made a mess without helping.
Great advise. I was about to give up on it.
I wish I found you sooner. I've been stressing over trying to fix this for days.
I was having trouble getting the bed level.. Then I found a tiny piece of PLA debris on the center of the aluminum base plate.
I discovered early on that preheating helped alot, you are the only one that includes that important tip!
I bought a ender 5 two weeks ago ( never owned or played with a 3D printer) I took my time putting it together making sure the rails were flush to each other then I put it down and leveled the frame up then leveled the bed.
There was to be a test print on the card but I don’t think/seen it so I just went ahead and printed a small cat figure and was amazed how awesome it came out first try.
I think a lot of people just slap crap together and expect it to work. If frame is not all square and level you can’t have a level bed and you just make things harder for yourself.
PS if you are thinking about getting a 3D printer DO IT!!! I wish I would of got one earlier. For past two weeks mine has been running none stop and I have huge list of things to print. I didn’t know if it was gonna be a waste of money that I’d use a couple of times but now I know it absolutely awesome tool. Everyone should have one, can make pretty much everything.
Thank you, you helped me solve my first big issue with a week's old Ender 3 (simple version). Cheers!
I have a cheap Prusa Mini, it has automatic bed leveling. I really hate using glue stick. I hate the mess and work of getting it all off my build plate but it does work. I have tried EVERYTHING to get PLA to stick to my bed without using a glue stick. I've tried PEI coated, Non-PEI coated, textured, smooth, basically any compatible build plate I could find. I am 100% sure my layer height is correct. So far ive been using Prusament and amazonbasic filament with Prusa's preset filament parameters for those specific filaments. I'm starting think something may be off on my printer. I wish I knew how to calibrate the temperature sensors or at least verify they are reading correctly. PETG sticks almost TOO good, PLA sticks not at all. Because of that I primary print in PETG. Just sucks, I wish I could figure how to print in PLA easily, without glue. Until then ill continue to use PETG. Thanks for the tips.
glue stick tip! saved me. now printing surgical mask straps for my wife's co-workers for her hospital ✊🏼✊🏼✊🏼
edit: I use magigoo now and it's 100% better than hairspray or a glue stick 👍🏼
Late to the party I guess but I only got my Adventurer 3 last night. Got a successful 3DBenchy on the 2nd go by using a laminating pouch cut to the size of the heatbed and held in place with a few blobs of UHU glue stick. The inside of the laminating pouch is a perfect base for the plastic to stick to.
Thank you very much! This video saved me from 3D printing frustation
I just did bed leveling and then prints worked awesome. Thanks for the tips and tricks.
I found that just a little more presser on the paper(still move easy) That I do not need anything to hold my print down .
Thanks for the video you do a great job. Great sound. Hard to find youtube video you can hear.
If your filament is not sticking when going in circular motions, you will need to lower the bed. I did this and it is now printing perfect circles. I assume you will also need to consistently level the bed if you have a new printer due to the fluctuations in length of the springs for the bed, due to a shifting k factor from temperature change.
I have found this the BEST video explaining this, I still am having issues but very good video. Thank you and keep up the good work my friend!! You are a good teacher, you explain things very well! Subscribed.
I just bought a Ender 3 Pro it prints the sample prints just fine but when I try to print any thing else it doesn’t stick. I am going to try these solutions and maybe I can enjoy printing anything other plastic dogs and cats and pigs . I know what everyone is getting for Christmas this year.
exact same for me, any results?
Did you fix it and if so how
I made one of the biggest rookie mistakes when starting to print on glass. I never cleaned the surface for a week till my prints started not sticking and I at one point wanted to return the printer since I tried to fix everything I could think of. Simple alcohol and paper towel fixed it for me after 4 days of hair pulling
Thanks. The test prints included with my printer printed great but anything bigger than the dog or pig would end up with the filament dragging all over the bed. When I was leveling the bed I wasn't letting the paper drag enough because I didn't understand how much drag I actually need. Now my 3d printer upgrades are printing good. 😁
I was trying things to get my Prints To Stick, It Seemed To Come Off When Turning A Corner, Then I Remember From My Automotive Background, Tack Cloth For Painting Cars! Worked Like A Damn Champion!!! It's Cheap And It Works, Little 91 Percent Alcohol And It Comes Right Off!! It's Just What I Use, And The Price Is Damn Fine!
Tons of great info all proven and tested! Thanks Brother.
Fantastic video. I’m looking at my first print that’s gone past the first layer thanks to you 👍🏻
Using ender3 v2 and devil craft PLA filament, tried glue didnt work, brand new glass bed didnt work, then increased nozzle temp from 200 to 220 and works perfectly
having problems myself will try upping the temperature
You are right. My mistake was the bad leveling bed.
Than you for an excellent video. I have just purchased a Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo, and successfully completed some prints with the white PLA that came with the printer, having followed this and numerous other tutorials. I purchased some Sunlu Blue PLA and just cannot get it to stick. When the printer initially creates a single test line towards the edge of the bed, this line sticks very well. When the nozzle then moves more towards the centre of the bed to print the object, the filament does not adhere very well at all. I have repeatedly adjusted the level of the bed and the Z offset but cannot get this blue filament to stick. As soon as I re-insert the default white that came with the printer it sticks fine.
I am super thankful for you explaining this exactly as I thougt the bed needs readjusting pretty often, what I have been thinking of that there should be a 5th support in the middle because I feel like my buildplate is bowing down there on my crealitu ender 5 s1. I am going to readjust things once again :)
Dude, this channel looks like the public access channel I worked at in highschool, LOVE IT #LCTV
Missing card at 10:50 :(
Thanks for a better video than the last guy.... He did everything so i couldn't see what he was doing.
Most Informative Video I’ve seen on 3D Printing Thus Far Bar None ! 10 Waffles 😉
Glad it was helpful!
thank you so much i was starting to freak out cause i am totally new at this
Thank you so much. I made three noob mistakes and you fixed it all. You're awesome!
You give very informative, very clear instruction. Thank you
Could not get the print to stick to bed . Thank you for this video , helped a lot! 👍
dude, your intro is amazing. I've just started learning how to edit animations like that and that was really creative!
Thanks, my speed was at 100mm/second! I put it down to 50 and now it works great
Thank you for doing a proper guide n fix video(s) where you show what you can do instead of just saying it
Should the paper have a stuttering feel when pulling/pushing?
I use GLASS. I also use METAL tape..the chrome type...to secure the glass. I wash the glass..with soap and water...rinse it well..then use rubbing alcohol on the glass thendry it. I use the elmers spray glue...2 LIGHT coats on the glass...I let it dry for about 40 minutes..then i use elmers glue stick...i apply between 4 and 6 coats. You normally almost have topRY the print off of the bed. I just run it under warm water for about 5 minutes and the parts breaks free. hope this was helpful.
im suprise how well you introduce that problem :) in start video i was preparing for close and select next video. But what i hear sound some professional . Nice. You talk about many things how to do that well.. best way will be to show in program and show on printer. Like you said.. you mostly record that for begginer. Take care
Using ABS I had too much trouble to get prints to stick.. That was Until I started using Standard grade yellow ABS cement, on my bed. The best part is that it will auto release once bed cools down. Also I am using 1/4 inch thick glass bed, with a heater bellow it..
I tried cleaning, tried glue sticks. But ABS cement works the best, as when you get too much, the hot end will melt into it... does cause some clicking in the feed unit at start, and this cement adds a layer to the works... Hope this helps some of you.
Thanks for the great video, it helps me a lot and my print after following the different steps and settings was perfect again. I put 2 M3 paper parts under my printbed on the right spots and the bed is perfect levelled again. 👍💪👌
Great tips! Think I’ve some new ideas to go back and try again!
Glass or aluminum or steel bed with Zillagrip coating glue allows you to print the most type of plastics and works with a cold bed. Just heat the bed to release. PLA ABS Nylon PETG PP POM PC with one glue coating adhesive
Very helpful
Damn Andy Reid coaching us on 3D printing too!
Thanks a lot!!! 🙏
First video I've seen! Love the animation for the intro. So cool!
I just realized, few times I unstuck the prints by bending the stock print surface, it looks like some kind of glass fiber so i assume i bent it just few microns and threw leveling off.
I'll buy myself a proper print surface.
First time at the channel here. Great video and thanks for the information! Subbed! Anyone ever confuse you with Andy Reid? lol
I literally thought I was watching Andy Reid
Thanks for the info you Ben a really big help
I am so so new at this and your channel is helping me to better understand it all much better....
When you talk about settings for the first layer am i doing it on my ender3 settings, or an outside program?
thank you
Thank you, very informative video that I was looking for for my new 3d printer. subscribed!
Thank you it seems to be working.
Thank you men you realy helped me .Eugene
Thanks
You’re such a blessing oh my gosh. This video helped me so much 😂 you explain things so simply it really helped
MUCHAS GRACIAS!!! THank you!! Very much!!! 😁😁
Just use a piece of 3mm acrylic as a bed. Works beaitifully and no need to waste electric on heated bed
Used the preset prints for the ender 3 pro. Bed isn’t hot enough and I can’t change it because the print is already set. So I have to make my own and mess with my setting to find the right ones
Thank you so much for your advice, going to try some of them now. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
i use the kokoni ai 3d printer and its not sticking to the bed and it wont print when connected to wifi keeps saying failed to print and it only will print in offline mode
Thank you for your suggestions. I'm using PA6-CF Nylon carbon fiber reinforced PA6 should I turn off all fans (extruder fan and nozzle fan)?
YOU ARE GREAT DUDE
Very easy to understand that’s very easy. Like
The top and bottom corners of my bed are set to the lowest level, but the extruded is still pretty hard on the bed. I can’t adjust further then that. What does that mean and what should I do?
If you can't move your bed any more, you need to first move your Z end stop so you have more travel in your bed.
Thank you for the narrative story on how thing are working with paper drag. Just a question: Should I turn the heater bed off and apply the Elmer's Glue Stick and go ahead with printing without heated bed? Thank again!
Having the ender 3 pro with no upgrades I just accepted my fate of having a uncomfortably close nose to bed so I always have bed adhesion
Just buy a glass, it's very cheap, I also have the enter 3, with glass bed. If it wasn't that I wouldn't be able to print with many filaments.
Thanks for this video. BTW I could swear I heard Rich from Review Tech USA somewhere in this video 😆
Well, my first layer's going down perfectly now. But my prints have started coming loose half way through. :/
go to home depot and buy some mirror tile a little bigger than your build plate, you might need a glass cutter if it's too big. Use blue tape UNDER the glass until it's perfectly level, check with a metal ruler. Level the bed and clean with rubbing alcohol before every print. You will never have a problem again
Block sand the aluminum build plate
i heat bed to 80, put a layer of hot melt glue on bed...then turn off heat all-together, wait till it hits under 40 then print...with cold bed cura bed set to 0...when you have finished print heat up again to 80 then remove...simple..
Just got a cr 10 mini the bed is nice and level but I cannot get the nozzle to touch the paper as you say it will. Also where the nozzle is that piece is crooked slightly. I have all the twist screws under as tight as possible and still cannot get the bed closer to the nozzle.
My issue is that while three of my corners are level the top right corner is tightended to the max and is still not level. Further after leveling the corners the center is off. What could be the problem?
If you can't move your bed any more, you need to first move your Z end stop so you have more travel in your bed.
Excellent explanations 👍
Thanks for sharing 😀👍