Magigoo vs Glue Stick: Hold down your 3D Prints! Test and Review
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video we're taking a look at Magigoo, a purpose made bed adhesion solution for 3D Printers. Does it work better than a cheap glue stick? Watch to find out!
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At school we always used to use hairspray, which should have the same properties as the Magigoo and is much cheaper as well and more easy to apply.
As always, your reviews are THE BEST. You understand the product you are reviewing, you give examples of using it, you show its weakness and strengths. You don't bore us with time laps pictures of printing a bunch of crap, (we all know what 3D printing looks like). unless the video is appropriate, in which chase you keep it short and to the point. Thank you for cutting to the chase on your excellent videos, not wasting our time, but giving us valuable information.
Every other review of this product is an example of how to not do a review. None of the reviewers did such an extensive comparison, none looked carefully at how much lifting there was for different materials and different adhesives, nor gave an honest assessment - you told it like it is. Some of the reviews spent over half of the video time explaining that they didn't know much about the product, then most of the remaining time showing a time laps video of their printer printing some stuff, with background distorted "music???", followed by no assessment of lifting, how it responded to different materials, how it compared to glue. They were a total wast of bandwidth.
I appreciate it very much and always look forward to your videos. Thank you!!
My brother is having problems with his starting prints not sticking. I told him to watch your vids as I am finding them to be very helpful in this new hobby of ours. Thanks.
Buck
Exactly the video I was looking for! I really enjoyed the honest insight and straight to the point style of talking!
Great video, as always, Angus! Question, do you think you could do a tutorial video on printing temperature for newbies? Like pros and cons of high and low temperatures, proper bed temps, calibration, etc?
Very thorough test. love the FLIR footage!
Nice review! After lots and lots of testing, I found out that the best way to get ABS (or other materials) to stick to the printbed is clean PEI which is slightly sanded with 200 grid sandpaper. It creates a much larger surface area for the material to stick to.
I use it on 8 UMOs, a Taz 5, BCN3D sigma and CR-10 and it works amazing on every machine. I repeat the sanding proces each half year or so, when the isopropanol or acetone wipe doesn't improve adhesion anymore.
Awesome video, always nice to get an honest review
Thank you for this video, I just received a Magigoo sample that I will be trying out soon. I currently use glue stick on clean glass at the moment.
Great review in true MakersMuse style❤️😄💪🏽
Outstanding review. Very thorough but not overly so. Would have loved to see how well Magicgoo works with PLA. Great job!
“But it popped off with a sort of ripping noise” *rips PEI* ... *nervous laugh* 😂
THUMBS UP for this honest review! Thank you!
Just in time for the sample provided in the Maker Box! Got it with your discount code of course :D
personally I'm quite partial to glass sprayed with Insette Extra Hold Hairspray. much prefer it over using the stock glued down print surface. besides the good adhesion, I very rarely have to re-level the bed anymore and you can remove the glass plate from the machine for print-removal or cleaning etc.
I had a lot of problems with bed adhesion on my Anet A8 for the longest time. Now I use water blended wood glue. I have a bunch pre-mixed in a small container, I just pour some on the bed and smear it with a card or a paintbrush. No problems at all any more.
Completely agree with your conclusion.
Although I haven't tried it with ABS, I find that hairspray works really well on my glass printing surface. It seems that the cheapest hairspray I can find (Aqua Net) works the best.
Great review! I smashed the like button
Those multicolored ink dobbers at 1:02 are used a lot for the game "bingo" here in the states. Good video, Angus. I use glue sticks exclusively and have been for well over a year on my printers. Great to see that there is a dedicated adhesive product for 3d printing though. A bit pricey but very cool.
I'm using Pritt with success, so have a few brands of cheap gluestick to try out before spending that much on Magigoo.
Great video Angus as always.
Thanks for being honest.
Just bought a CR-10S - bed isn't perfect (still working on it) - but I had numerous failures trying to use Magigoo. Figured it was down to the slight dip in the centre of the glass but decided to throw on some of that cheap tape that came with the printer. The tape worked perfectly, even with the slightly off glass bed. I'll have to try a glue stick next time. A little disappointed with the Magigoo - it seems to start off alright but will just let go unexpectedly. Argh. Oh well. It's a learning experience for sure. :) Loving your channel btw - some awesome info.
What I would love to see would be a g-code from you on an V3 MK2/etc. adaptor to surround the nozzle with air to the print. That would be so productive. I wish I had your talent to create real world applications for my 3D-printers.
I'm a newbie to 3D printing and I tend to try things. I tried magigoo (the old version), too. I like that it is easy to distribute it evenly and that the backside of prints to look clean. I think it does both things better than glue stick. IMHO (2 month experience) the first layer of a print sticks more consistenly for tricky PLAs like those from rigid ink. I totally agree, that the price tag is too hefty.
0:00 i see that princess mononoke print in the background . a true man of culture .
Great review Angus, I was expecting you to promote it TBH with all the marketing they are doing lately, awesome review as always, smashing the like button 👍
The major issue I have with glue is that it sometimes is incredibly hard to take large parts off the bed (ABS). I know in your video you said glue was a little bit more difficult to remove, but have you tested both with larger ABS prints yet? If so did you notice a difference?
I find if I use some of the extreme bed adhesion techniques ppl advocate then it just moves the problem up and I get layer splitter or parts with so much tension built in that it cracks very easily.
The only solution for regular ABS is an enclosure.
Also formfutura Titan-X (dutch filaments ABS-X) really does seem to be zero warp as they say. This is now my go to ABS for everything.
That said regular glue stick worked great for me(with an enclosure) before I moved to PEI.
Nice honest review Angus. Thanks.
On alternative adhesion tricks, is an ABS slurry on PEI still viable? Is it better than a glue stick?
I think James Bruton still uses the slurry but I don't know if its on PEI...
- Eddy
Great video
I bought for my anet a8 a pei sheet from amazon 0.8 ,Abs or pet-g or pla stick like nothing .. i dont't know why i use magicGoo or glue ..
Thanks for testing these kinds of products, its nice to see what is a gimmick or not , I haven't had ABS bed adhesion problems in years, no matter the brad of ABS cheap or not, I also ditched the brim for 98% of parts, I use 3dlac most part, and for those warp prone parts, I use WolfBite. 3Dlac is under 20$ CAD a can, which is rather cheap for great bed adhesion and Wolfbite is AMAZING but far to expensive for every day normal use which is why I use it as a last resort.
I only use a brim with 10-15 lines and place some mini cubes around the model.
A little longer printtime but no warping on a dolly i3 and a MK3 bed :D
I'm testing it too at the moment. For some filaments it even sticks to good.
I agree the previous leg lifting would remove some adhesive, and if you didn’t replace that, then it would effect and maybe cause the same legs lifting again. But I also think that depending on the infill type and the direction of those lines in relation to the walls, will all effect the infills ability to keep the structure walls straight, Gyroid is often used to allow for a more evenly distributed warping force in all directions x/y, rather than in one particular axis. The legs being in different axis will all have different warpage forces going on inside them depending on these internal settings. Therefore we could determine which settings effect this by studying which legs warp/lift consistently.
Normal glue stick seems to work well for me, but just got a sample of Magigoo with this month's Maker Box so will give it a bash.
The only material I have had snags with a glue stick is nGen. Just cannot get the first layer to play nicely!
I would love to see you do this test using the Airwolf 3d Wolfbite and see how it compares
You should really do makerbox openings monthly. I feel that the loot crate opening style of video is very interesting and makerboxes are the perfect way to bring that type of content to 3D printing channels
I love the Mononoke in the background - was the first Ghibli film I saw :)
+shabbesgoj it's my favourite, but we have no where to put the frame because rental :(
If your wall surface allows, you could use Tesa Powerstrips. When you move out, you just pull on the tab of the strip and as it stretches, it'll come right off, but it can carry quite a bit of weight and doesn't weaken by itself in years.
Literally can't attach anything and cant be bothered removing them for inspections.
What the..? How can you not be allowed to put anything on the walls? Give us your landlords email and we will spam him to give you permission xD
That sounds like a great way to get booted out of his rental agreement lol
(I'm watching this video in November 2020 and recently received a tube of Magigoo as a present. I still have to try it though ! Forgive me for cross posting a comment I made on another channel. Hopefully it will help people who print ABS with a CR-10S or similar.)
ABS juice really works wonders for me. I have a CR-10S and they are, in stock condition, not really suited very well for a finicky 3D printing plastic like ABS. I used to use a clear paint lacquer on my glass and, though it did work quite well (and not even very well sometimes) there was always the problem of ripping chunks out of the glass sheet afterwards. Eventually I did start using the juice and, with some experimenting, found a very good method that works well. I allow the bed to heat up to around 80 degrees C and only then start to apply the juice. This makes the ABS juice kind of bubble a bit and the surface becomes quite uneven, for lack of a better term. Kind of woolly, I would call it. I do bed leveling and have the nozzle rather close to the glass. This, however, is not the whole story. I use adaptive layers (in Cura) to have the first 20, 30 layers or so printed very thin. Now, the issue is that you cannot really choose different layer heights in Cura straight off the bat without modifying the object you want to print, so I had to find a way to force Cura to make my initial layers very thin. I found that introducing another small model, a curvy kind of wedge-like shape, will force the initial layers to be very thin. This wedge is only about 3-4 mm tall. The end result is that by using smaller initial layer heights the warping effect is greatly reduced. Once I am above 4 mm or so the base of the model is strong enough and the thicker layers (up to about 0.2 mm) can be introduced. Printing with ABS has finally become a lot of fun for me ! :) Oh, and of course I also use some kind of heat cover around my printer for temperature stability. One more thing I like about the juice, it does actually work very gently on the glass, which is ordinary window glass. Never had one chip on me since I started using ABS juice.
Hi great video and i am from Australia and when a video is from Australia it’s amazing but my background is Maltese and something from Malta is so much more better
Consider buying the mK2 polyfilament. Your thought about this
Could you please review" flex 3d" build plate which do not require glue or even heat bed
Knowing it would warp, you could design in circular pads on each leg to hold the print down as well, usually if I know it’s going to curl, design pads.
I have used the Magicgoo on the Tronxy XY 3, but it doesn't do good at a bed temperature of 50 degrees celsius with a PLA filament, but on the Mingda D2, it does good. I may just have to use the cheap glue stick with the Tronxy XY 3 from now on.
I use UHU stick for ABS warping like filaments and UHU Pen (kids glue) for PLA, WOOD etc. (edited) on glass.
0:40
I saw that box disappear!
holy crap youre observant lol
A bit off topic but i noticed you have isopropyl alcohol in the background there. Do you find it works better than methylated spirits for cleaning resin prints?
Just trying PVA and water mix on my CR-10. Two hours into a ten hour print and looking good so far. I'm cheating cos printing PLA. Always use blue tape but it's too good for big surfaces and struggle to get prints off. So interested to get to work in the morning and see if it's worked as well as I hope.
Could trying different build surfaces to see if they get different results? I use magigoo with no issues.
So Angus, do you personally prefer glue, gaffer's tape, or flexible bed surfaces?
I've been using a gluestick and a light spray of Isopropyl, seems to work well.
I have been using acetone with abs plastic mixture with abs prints. With that the print will never warp. However getting it off can be tricky. With PLA I just use cheap glue sticks. I own Prusa MK2, but I have never been able to print anything without adding some adhesive, even I have been cleaning the bed spotless with alcohol.
The best adhesion for my prints is a simple sheet of paper glued on bed. Never get wriped of but sometimes prints come of with paper however it is easy to clean with water. Try it.
would like to see a demo on that nano tech... does it work with petg? glass is tricky... many times my prints are fine for a couple of hours than a support column breaks loose and print it junk... main parts stick with hair spray or glue only... does this hold better than glue stick or hair spray... demos would show this...
What about adhesion with flexible materials? Trying to print with bilby's flex pla blend and my biggest issue is it warping and lifting off the bed before getting a complete print. Have a glass bed with blue painters tape and glue stick but still lifts (have tried clean glass and glass + tape)
what do you use to see the temperature on the buildplate?
You should really try Magigoo on the PEI with TPU. i had ruined my PEI sheet as it stuck so well without additives. Later folund out that Magigoo creates a perfect separation layer leaving your bed intact :) also Malta FTW!! :)
Diluted PVA does the same trick as well.
I print a lot of lost resin casting molds. Many of my pieces have a lot of retraction on thin parts. I use Mod-Podge.
Would be very interesting to try out all the other glues people are mentioning in the comments below and determine the best one: UHU stick vs PVA vs Super Glue vs painters tape
I just personally use a dollar store can of hairspray and that works really well if it does not evaporate before the layers go down
1:01 They are mainly used to mark Bingo cards. Great Review Angus...
I've used UHU Glue Sticks exclusively on my ABS prints with excellent adhesion results and like you said Glue Sticks are a lot less Expensive...
I wonder if different makes of glue sticks are better than others... I see another Review coming.
shouldn't UHU dry more quickly?
I apply a new layer every 2-3 prints... And cleanup is easy with warm water.
No chemicals needed.
Would like to see this test on a glass plate and add hairspray in to the mix.
on my mp select mini i use painters tape(super wide so i only use one piece) and it all sticks fine just too much at times with pla and petg
How does Magigoo increase the bed adhesion and also act as a release agent at the same time?
Try pei sheets i bought some from Amazon along with some 10inch by 10inch double sided tape to stick the sheet to the bed. And it works really well don't need goo or glue :)
An update on bed adhesives would be a cool video.
Hey Angus !
Here's a very good trick to avoid warping that I find very practical.
You should print with a heated bed obviously, but the trick is to use a raft, and as soon as the raft is done, you apply some painter tape on the borders of the raft so that it is held down against the bed. This, combined with glue, allows me to have almost no warping at all :)
I do the same on most of my models, usually 3 layers of raft and tape will do.
When printing with ABS or similar likes-to-warp materials, in my experience a raft makes things _worse_ in many cases: thin parts of the model warp up and disconnect themselves from the raft, since the although the raft may be sticking fine the area where the raft meets the model bottom is much weaker/more sparse connection than if you just printed straight to the bed.
...so instead of a raft, try using a brim/skirt, tape *that* down, and I bet your "almost no warping" will turn into "no warping at all". :D
I have a problem. While the filament sticks nice to the bed at first, (I am using the correct temperatures, speeds and layer thickness and the bed is level) after some layers it slowly wraps from the Brim and then the whole print pops out of the way. I am using only the stock heated bed.
i am completely new to 3d printing and have just purchased a CR-10 S5 , so far i have heard conflicting information regarding printing PLA. i have heard some people say that the bed tempreture should be set to 60 degrees and then other people say that PLA doesnt need a heated bed at all ? could anybody here confirm what is the correct bed temprature settings for printing PLA on a creality CR-10 ?
Which one would be better for good first layer adhesion? Cause I can't seem to print a good first layer. The plastic comes out and sticks to the nozzle instead of to the bed and that drags the rest of the first layer off.
Hi just want to ask it works for matte pla?
Awesome!
how did both fare, compared to diluted pva glue and sougar solution?
How do you think it would do with PETG. And with the glue stick?
also wondering if you could make your own version of magigoo at home like a DIY version sorta like how you can make abs juice for better bed adhesion. Maybe something for PLA bed adhesion???
I saw a video where a guy used 10% Elmers wood glue with 90% water and it seemed to work just as good as a glue stick.
I am trying to print rc car track segments I designed in PLA and they are pretty large. I use normal $2 glue but they can print perfectly to half of it was warping. It's kinda frustrating.
great common sense review Thanks Angus as always...........best wishes and happy extruding !
If you are printing a lot of ABS wouldn't an enclosure be a better way to avoid warping?
do u apply this on a cold bed or heated bed?
Can you do a test for PETG with Magigoo on PEI?
Btw I wouldn't use isocol on pei, it leaves a residue. I had a problem with prints lifting even after cleaning rigorously with isocol. Switched to some 100% isopropyl alcohol from Bunnings and now abs and others stick fine without glue stick on my prusa i3 mk2s
In those pictures at the end (7:10) the glue prints look much better than the glue stick ones. I presume that it would be trivial for a chemical company to reformulate the cheap glue stick to hold at higher temperatures. So the price bump is excesive.
On a side note, wasn't hair spray also a very good solution for adhesion problems?
It comes down to what brand of gluestick. I found uhu glue stick works perfectly.
where do you get all your adventure time shirts?
Angus, for giggles can you please test good old Aussie clag glue oneday???? u know the stuff from school that kids would eat lol
Say smash if you want to, it's your video! :P
I think you smashed that review.
Personally I prefer the magigoo over glue stick. The bottoms remains smoother on the prints and it just never lets go when printing where glue stick does fail a bit to often for my likening. Because of the sticking confidence I also speed up the print saving time as well. This on a CR-10S using glass bed. It might be expensive but wasted prints are more expensive.
I use super glue and kapton and never had any issue with ABS warping. it is a bit of timing work but I trust my large jobs with it and it has never let me down
do you wait for the super glue to dry out?
How are people cleaning the applicator tips on the 50ml tubes?
Do you find yourself using any form of fancy adhesives these days for abs and nylon? Seems there are many polymer glues available now but they don't seem to be popular and all the videos I see are years old.
Any idea on whether the gluestick is PVA or PVP? PVP usually works better.
You should do a 3d printer hack try (like testing online "hacks"). I think that would be a good video.
I print on satin or textured sheets and those wear out the soft application tip on the Magigoo long before the glue runs out, making it impossible to apply correctly. I wish Magigoo came ina spray version as it is a great product.
Did you apply the glue stick while the bed was hot ?
Personally i prefer using abs dissolved in acetone as a base. Only downside is that you get a bit of the color you dissolved attached to your print, but that's really easy to sand off. (Or make some in the color you're going to print)
"Warpinator"? Isn't that what Scotty used to put in the warp reactor?
i want that princess mononoke picture!
does it work for nylon and tpu ?
Magigoo on glass really is "Magic".
However it must be applied VERY thinly, not with the huge amount plastered on in the video.
The print bed should be set to the high temp range recommended for the filament or just beyond.
It works best when very warm.
The print should never be removed until the bed us well below 26-28c. At that point it lifts off with seemingly NO adhesion.
Above 36C prints are almost impossible to remove from glass.