Quick Fix to Eliminate Stringing on your 3D Prints
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 พ.ค. 2021
- Chuck shows you a Quick Fix to Eliminate Stringing on your 3D Prints. It's simple and effective to get rid of that last little bit of stringing that maybe your retraction settings just can't get rid of.
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Worked like a Charm !!!!
I use ABS filament and stringing is a big problem, if i use lower temperatures, parts get very warped and layers dont fuse together.
Really? I also use ABS (local Brazilian brands) and I couldn't get ABS to string at all in three different brands. Retraction tower tests only show a minute amount of blobs where the filament starts to string, breaks and recoils back forming a small ball, and even so, they are only barely noticeable at 1mm retraction, from 2 onwards they all look the same. And that's with teachingtech's website gcode, so no wipe and no combing. The only time I get the beginnings of stringing is when the filament is getting moist, but by that point I can already notice lots of bubbles and pops coming from the nozzle while heating up. Maybe it's the Linear Advance doing it's job. Mine is a 2019 Ender-3 with capricorn tubing and aluminium extruder.
On the other hand, bed adhesion have been a nightmare over the years, so with the problem basically solve by the new PEI bed surfaces, I'll definitely keeping any type o oil as far away as possible from my printer.
@@Spartacusse - Tá de sacanagem... outro BR enxendo o saco na internet... hahahahaha
Eu comprava material de um fabricante de Florianopolis - SC, testei 1 rolo da Shopee e agora estou comprando da 3D Prime.
E já logo te digo, a diferença entre fabricantes é BRUTAL, essa dica de usar oleo vegetal é algo interessante de se fazer de qualquer forma, mas o Fabricante é um fator muito maior, com meu fornecedor anterior (3d.on) eu tinha diversos problemas em ajustar temperatura entre as CORES, marrom era um inferno pra imprimir, temperatura maxima e 20% mais devagar, Vermelho sempre sendo quebradiço, quando achava que a peça estava pronta, não tinha nem 20% feito porque o filamento quebrou e a impressora trabalhou no vazio...
Outro ponto é, Hotend ruim... eu tenho uma Creality 10 e suspeito que veio com o mesmo hotend que o seu, no meu caso, o dissipador não era o suficiente pra ABS, aposto que funciona normal em PLA, mas o cooler era muito fraco e o dissipador fica colado contra a estrutura e não tem como o ar sair... eu FORTEMENTE recomendo trocar e engambiarrar um Hotend E3D V6.
.
Bonus:
1mm de retraction é pouco pra uma bowden, a mangueira de teflon gera folga entre o hotend e a resposta do motor, geralmente essa folga é de uns 5mm, mas pode variar proporcionalmente ao tamanho da mangueira de teflon.
Sobre aderência da mesa, eu uso chapa de vidro, fixador de cabelo e 95°C de temperatura da mesa, 100°C pra peças com maior tendencia de warp.
E Enclausuramento é OBRIGATORIO em ABS
This destroys the interlayer adesion. The resulting parts are much weaker.
@@cosmefulanito5933 - Completely Nonsense, the objective here is to Lower friction on the filament on contacting everything until the nozzle.
The Oil will spread on everything that touches the filament and the rest will be vaporized before it passes through the nozzle.
Also, its a fucking droplet once every a few weeks, not the entire container of oil... you are lubricating the path of the filament, not seasoning your 3d prints.
.
The result is the opposite, Parts get STRONGER due to less interference on the process and better nozzle pressure.
I've been doing this for years, with Avocado oil. Every time this comes up and I suggest oiling the filament cleaner, I'm shunned back under the rock I crawled out from under.
It makes a MAJOR difference with all metal hotends, which is all I run. It is absolutely a permanent fix.
I wonder if this might also season the nozzle like a cast iron pan...
Yes it does.
It also has the secondary benefit of cleaning any dust/debris that might have accumulated on the filament in storage.
I would say just keep using it. The tiny amount of oil deposited should have very minimal (if any) effect on the final product. Once the oil is gone it changes from an oiler to a cleaner.
Hey, Chuck just wanted to say thank you for all your videos. Your video on the original Ender 3 got me very interested in 3d printing. A friend and I bought one each, and this is honestly one of the best purchases I've ever made.
I had bad wispy retraction issues with my new all metal hotend. Did this and immediate fix. I spent soooo long fiddling with settings before doing this. Thank you!
This worked. I was an hour into a print and the strings were horrible, this video was third in the search list for petg stringing. I thought this was a joke, but it actually worked. Reminds me of an old man saying everything mechanical benefits from oil. Thanks for the simple explanation and format of the presentation.
Ive been doing this for years and I can confirm: it works like a charm!
Very interesting. You are seasoning your hot end just like you would season a cast-iron frying pan.
Works like a Champ! Thanks Chuck. Keep those tips coming to all us 'noobs'. Stay well, stay safe.
Thank you Soooo very much for your candid information. I will start doing this Before the stringing issue occurs
Have never tried it, but have heard that it just works.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Stringing for me is usually due to one of two things.
1. The nozzle temp is too high for this filament, do a test tower and find the optimal temp.
2. Humidity. Get a small humidity sensor and keep the room humidity below 50%.
Keep up dropping that quality information!
I am a person that don't like writing comments, but have to say that this olive oil tip saved my weeks on trying to figure it out problems, that causing stringing... Within 2min, my retraction tower looks day and night. Thanks, watching many videos of yours to learn how to use 3d printer as I am new to this.
It works! I get a lot less clogs with the oiler
Thanks again for a wonderful tutorial!
I can confirm this works like a charm. I run a Ender 5 Plus with a Microswiss all metal hotend and their direct drive and a while ago it just started stringing like crazy as per your issue you showed at the beginning that is down to retraction.... It does not matter what I tried I could not get this sorted with retraction settings and E-Step calibration. After a lot of thought I actually took the whole all metal hotend apart and took a nice fine polish on a toothpick on a drill and started polishing all the insides of the whole hotend and heatbreak as well as my brand new hardened steel Microswiss nozzle. After that I did the oiling, but I used silicone spray and man did this sort all my issues... Now my prints looks better than ever.
I get a lot of stringing on my E3Max with a MS hotend and I KNOW it's not the travel path or running too hot, will find out if it's moisture in a bit when I pull ita out of my dehydrater, will give this a try if it's still stringing. Thanks Chuck.
Great tip Chuck!
Thanks for the video tips Chep
Gonna try this. thanks!
wow thank you ! this was amazing fix !! i used mustard oil
Where were you a week ago?
My Capricorn dried up (never knew it could do that)... so a new one is on the mail! This quick fix I will remember
This is a great tip, thanks man!
Wow you are so smart! Thanks for that idea
Just tried this half way through a cinderwing print and sure enough, it worked! I've been trying everything from lower temps to more and faster retraction, and although my temp and retraction towers were fine, i always got wisps. I think I should just move to an all metal hot end but this is an awesome temporary fix!
Great explaination Sir🤩
I have this problem right now. Thankyou
Been dealing with stringing for some time now. I tried a bunch of settings and fine tuning and then saw this video. Immediately printed the little case, cut up a sponge and dipped some olive oil on it. Now my printer runs like new. Who would’ve thought!
Nice another Tool for my bag thanks!
Will give this a go, thanks for a great video.
Great info, thanks for sharing. 👍
Pretty interesting indeed , Chuck! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
That was the very first print I ever did with my first printer a Monoprice Select Mini (Original version). I use these on all my printers and never had a problem with them. If I recall you did a video of it back then to illustrate print in place hinges.
Yet another simple, helpful and perfectly presented video! Thank you!
Chuck - you look wicked tired man. Hope you're well! Double check the tent on the ABS printer, the fumes might be catching up with ya! :)
Thanks alot this is awesome.
I’ve had many questions about other oils. I’ve only used olive oil for years. It coats the PTFE and the smoke point is below the typical nozzle temp so any excess burns up before leaving the nozzle. Other oils may not do that so I’ve stuck with olive oil and have never seen any issues (unless I use too much).
@@Swampthing401 When the oil is heated ahead of its smoke point, it gives off toxic smoke. As olive oil has a low smoking point, heating it increases the risk of creating smoke that includes compounds which are harmful to your health. But it might not be enough to do much
Ask google. “In a 2010 Food and Chemical toxicology study, when researchers fried various types of olive oil, only after 24 to 27 hours of frying were the oils considered to be harmful.”
For the small amount I’m using, I’m not sure it would even register.
I will agree I've had good results oiling my bowden line every once in a while. however, I highly recommend using mineral oil and not cooking oil.
It isnt more toxic than volatiles leaving pla when heated...
Really guys
Its a few grams at most...
@@FilamentFriday while this is true, the effect is totally different. This was oil that was intended for later consumption. The Brits (when I was growing up) would keep a pan of chip "fat" - which is a heavy oil used to cook fries - and reheat it many times. Only replacing that stuff when it got so black, the fries came out looking like they had fallen into a tar pit.
Now obviously you don't want to go huffing the smoke from a pan of over-heated oil (your lungs are precious) but that hasn't stopped people smoking tobacco which is many times worse and contains 1000s of known carcinogens.
TL;DR
Also the route matters. As oils are heated their chemical composition changes, forming toxic chemical chains in larger amounts - but the toxic effects occur when these substances are ingested and that's the key point.
Sure, the smoke isn't healthful, but you're exposed to far more carcinogenic particulates just driving to the mall!
Thanks Chuck
Interesting results, I have never heard of this.
Excellent video. I have Micro swiss direct drive, should I use olive oil for the all metal hot end or other type of lubrication? Thank you
Thanks man
Very interesting. I keep getting lots of stringing on my PETG prints, I'll try this on my next print.
Cool idea 😎 I always used 3 in 1 oil just with my fingers but this gives me n excuse to print a micro sponge holder 😅👍
I tend to favour a quick pass over a flame. Not enough to melt the model but it does get rid of the string ;)
So what’s the permanent fix if we’re using a direct extruder?
Great video. BTW, love the beard. You are rocking it!
Cooking with CHEP. 👍
I used sunflower oil on my Ender 3 for a couple of years to stop it jamming when I was printing TPU it worked great ! Now I have upgraded to a Seemecmc EZR struder after watching another one of your videos this upgrade may also help with stringing issues with PLA maybe ?
Nice thanks for this! i love your videos
Nice trick! Worked for me 👍
@CHEP It's important as you mentioned not to add too much oil, and I had to extrud 200mm
Silly question, I have a CR6SE with a runout sensor. Will the oil affect the sensor or do I need a way to apply it between the sensor and the extruder? Love your videos
Can't wait to try this. I've been battling a stringing issue on my printer this past month ever since I put a full metal hot end on. (Yes it was a clone - gulfcoast robotics)
Please tell us if it works 👍😊
@@oljobo they forgot
I use Mineral Oil.
It is clear and lighter on my all metal hot end.
But the biggest help you ever mentioned.
Was set your G code to retract 30 mm at the end of a print and advance it 30 mm at the beginning.
Since I started doing that. Filament changes are easier.
Less or no oozing before the print. No more clogs.
Probably because you have a solid piece of filament jamming into the hot zone.
Wow, Tom - I’ve just been tearing my hair out because PLA keeps jamming in my E3DV6. Duh: Just retract the filament 30mm after each print! Thanks for mentioning it here - I hadn’t seen Chuck’s original video tip, so you mentioning it here has probably saved me hours of frustration!
@@DEtchells I had to change it to 20mm with the original hot end and the new heat break. 30mm pulls it past the hot end. Then it does not want to go back in. Will have to make changes later but for now it is working.Reason being some times when it pulls there is a little bulge on the end if it is pulled out too far. Of course I could also turn up retract speed in the ending GCode. And now I am using Avocado oil for seasoning the Heat Break. I saw this in another video. Has a real high burn temperature.
@@DEtchells I set mine now to retract at G1 E-20 F5000 . I just changed to a gear reduced extruder.SANJUI EXTRUDER. 30mm retract at F2700 was to slow. It pulled the Filament out with a bulge on the end out of the heat break. Then it would not go back in. Now it works fine. The pull makes the filament with a taper on the end.
Also one other thing. I smooth out my heat breaks with pipe cleaners and rubbing compound.
nice one chuck
would a silicone based lubricant spray work as well? Im assuming so because of its lubrication properties with plastic.
thanks man
So Im wondering about a couple of other products, that have a high Temp. ? on Permatex Anti-Seize Lubericant its a paste, temp -60 to 1600F -51 to 871C and or Mission Automotive Silicone Paste ( waterproof dielectric grease) its a clear thicker than the Permatex which what I have is purple in color. has range of -55 to 570F.
i have been saying this for ever!!!! cnc kitchen even has a vid on this and it showed better layer adhesion aswell. but was inconclusive because he was not testing for that.
Just destroyed my micro Swiss so I ordered a biqu h2, had a horrible clog that would not come out, heated the micro Swiss on the oven to cook off the filament which worked but somehow the titanium throat was warped and stuck while not being fully seated against the body of the hotend so frustrating but definitely gonna use some sort of filament filter from here on out similar to the device in the video
Hi, CHEP! Did you've compared two parts printed before and after oiling a PTFE tube in terms of strength? It's the biggest thing that worries me here.
I'm printing by PETG mostly.
I like your ideal sound smart thought
you sir are a genius. Thanks for another quality AF FF video
I've been plagued by stringing for quite some time, tried everything.
Temp test, retraction distance test, nothing improves it.
Just tried olive oil idea, thought it might be working, but no. Improved it just a little.
But I didn't use the sponge to apply the oil, used paper towel. Perhaps didn't apply enough.
Seems strange when doing a retraction distance test from 1-6, you'd think stringing would disappear after a certain distance but come up with other problems, but no, stringing gets worse as it goes up.
But the description of why it works did have me thinking: I had replaced the nozzle at one time, might not have tightened it enough or it didn't meet the tube. Over a bit of time, filament backed up past the threads of the heat break that goes into the heat block. Didn't know it was threaded at the time, thought it floated in the hole. I think the entire bottom section was loose from the factory or became loose.
Anyway, after finding filament oozed all over the place, cleaned it up, then made sure the PTFE tube met the nozzle, I might have squashed it a bit and so the filament might be binding a bit during retraction.
So might have to replace the bowden tube. I don't think there's much to cut off from what came with the printer.
Using Ender 3 V2, CR-Touch, stock firnware for CR-Touch MB 4.2.2, with eSun PLA+
I've fixed bed adhering problem though. Get the z-offsite just right, about -1.00 from CR-Touch zero point, clean bed with alcohol often to remove the oily the paw prints.
Would this also work with TPU, mainly to minimize friction btw bowden tube and the filament a bit? (Not intending to go faster than maybe 20mm/s or so, but just to try and reduce the side effects of the "grippy" surface of the tpu rubber a little....?). Also, what is the softest TPU you would recommend a TPU newbie to start with on a bog standard ender 3? I've seen your vid with the alternative extruder bottom part/little ptfe tube mod, which makes a lot of sense, but is it likely to succeed in printing, say, 95A without said mod?
My guess is it's not lubrication as such, it's probably polymerization. Like seasoning a cast iron skillet. So oils with a lower smoke point (olive or flaxseed) will work better. And since it won't flash off until almost 500c, this is a really good idea. It's basically coating the inside of your heat break with a thin lining of super tough Teflon. It might work better if you somehow ran at a high temp
Are you not better putting the coupler at the coldend extruder and lubing the filament up on that side so that you are not running the olive oil through the extruder gear?
how does this lubrication perform with petg,abs,asa or other fancy/ diferent than pla plastic ???
I'm gonna have to try this, however I think a lot of my stringing issues are related to wet filament
A blast from the past. I used this trick about 10 years ago with my XYZprinting DaVinci. On the next printers I never wasted a thought about it, as I learnt to fix stringing permanently. Maybe worth a try, if nothing else helped.
And how did you fix your stringing permanently?
@@Graham_Wideman Calibration (retraction, speed, temperature); quality filament, upgrade extruder/hotend, drying filament ... depending on root cause of the problem.
Here’s my issue I’m a petg user I’ve been using a tan “wood” petg. I’m getting a break right after the extruder then it jams at the extruder. Any input is greatly appreciated
Nice!
I was curious. The ender 3 has the filament on top and it does not need guides. If I get my filament on top of a cr-10 smart do you think I would need guides if I were to move my filament to the top?
actually have tried this many times. esp with cheap pla. i didnt have a fancy clip box tho lol. i just use a bred tie and leave a lil sponge wrapped around with hardly any oil and ill print out a few dice sometimes it has effected the print cause i had to much oil i think so now when i do it. i have the oil sponge then a paper towel to dry off extra. id take pics but its ghetto lol.
3.99 for four sponges... Is the quality so great? Usually we buy a pack of 5 for ~ 1 - 1.5$ They serve for about month or so (every piece).
And I prefer two sided hexagon shaped sponges (black and yellow-brownish) - cleaning really great almost all surfaces! Just bought two of them for ~ 1$
(may be 1 - 2$ in our country). Not sure if these can be bought in USA.
Would silicone oil work with this?
oiling *Constantly* does reduce layer adhesion, but oiling the heartbreak and letting it get cleaned doesn't in my experience and helps metal heatbreaks!
I personally always took out my heatbreak, put a tiny bit of oil in the actual heartbreak, let it sit at below the burning temp of the oil for 30m-2h and then purged filament trough. i used canola cause of it's higher burning temp. never get a jam this way, I only have to do it once every 1-2 years
Olive oil is good for EVERYTHING!!😍
Great tip and nothing lasts forever,, stay well out there. Doc BC
Plz dont do this the strengts goes down like crazy
Look at CNC kitchen
Great information, but now I'm curious - Do you just keep the lubricator on during prints, or just put it on for that 100 or 200mm and then remove?
Just the 100-200mm.
@@FilamentFriday - Thank you sir!
Hot end clogged and covered in brown gunk, got to replace the lot after following this. Thanks for the tip. Can’t get stringing if you can’t extrude.
Can confirm. the oil effectively clotted in the nozzle and required full disassembly to fix
Did you use olive oil?
I’ve never had a clog. Other oils will cause issues.
@@FilamentFriday to clarify, I was fixing Judd West's printer. It may just be that all olive oils are not made equal but I inspected it and it was in fact olive oil. It's quite possible that the oil you are using is fine, but the oil that Judd purchased seems to have been what took his hotend out of commission until it was serviced by myself.
There was a good ending in that it's printing excellently since I rebuilt it.
Also, some people use too much. I state 100 mm wiped on filament once. Then let it run. I’ve seen people do that many times.
@@Omnislash772 I do live in a completely different country. I can't exactly go to Trader Joes in Australia. I'm just glad Omni was able to repair the hotend for me.
How often should this procedure be done for all-metal hotends?
lol I have been using this for 6 months including the same print LOL. great minds think alike :)
like one of my favorite bands:: Cheap Trick!
I'm thinking this is why one of my Ender 3s strings more than the others. About to try it out.
Printing with 0.8mm nozzle and on 0.32 layer height I found that if you have the retraction on
6mm/35mm/s I still got stringing but if I changed just the speed to 37mm/s it stopped nearly all the stringing. Filled my bed with as many blades from the contour gauge as possible not even a whisker
Very likely you are not lubricating your hot end in as much as you are seasoning it like you would cast iron pan. The oil coats the hotend as it passes through and the heat polymerizes it creating a hard high temperature nonstick layer....Olive oil doesn't have the highest smoke point. Other oils used to season pans may work better. Canola for instance is quite a bit higher smoke point and avocado oil is one of the highest at around 270c. For people running an all metal hotend at high temps avocado oil may be the oil to go with.
iv been using 1 of these with shaver oil in for yrs and works fine
I guess it shaves of those hairs.
So if the tube lost its "coating", just replace the tube?
Just get Pure Mineral Oil (Laxative) from CVS and some polyfill. It wont smoke or go rancid and will wick dust and dirt. I do think the oil helps cook off the water in the filament. Possibly even give it a "flux" environment to help bond.
Hi sir! I've been watching your videos and it's really helping a newbie like me a lot! If I'm doing lenghty prints, can I just leave the sponge with oil until the printer finishes my print? Thanks in advanced for your reply!
No. Remove it after 100 mm otherwise you apply too much oil.
@@FilamentFriday Thank you so much!
Will this trick help with TPU stringing (no retraction)?
Hey CHEP thanks for all the tutorials you do, just wondering if you could tell me if I can run my ender 3 v2 non-stop?
I have a pretty big print order and am on a tight time constraint. Thanks for your time. :)
Yes you can I also have the Ender 3 v2 and I’ve ran it for a week non stop without any problem and it’s still working like a champ.
@@Westy-1 OK, thank you so much!
@@inkkosaczuk365 no problem . Happy printing 👍🏻
I use ptfe lube on everything and works great
Safe to say this will be OK to use on direct drive styles as well? I don't have anything to lose at this point. Now to find the stl file
I recently replaced the hot end on my ender 3, and I got all put back together correctly but when I turn it on it makes that loud beeping noise, can someone help me figure out how to fix it?
Hello,I think you already gave this trick some time ago. Does this trick affect layer adhesion? Does the strength of the printed part is affected by the presence of oil?
No, the amount of oil used is too low. And it is not constant oiling, just enough to coat the bowden tube. I even printed with the sponge and no differences in layer adhesion or sticking to the bed. Olive oil starts to also break down around 200C.
How would you do this with a Bowden tube set up? I have a Prusa mini+. Thanks!
in the video he is showing it being placed just before the extruder
I use triangle posts when I run my string test. I played with all different speeds and still get stringing between the same two posts. There is no stringing from the other post to the two with the stringing (if that makes sense). At least I am down to a 33% problem.
To me this is a fix for a worn out bowden tube.
I agree a sponge is good idea to clean dust from filament.
There's a very interesting research on this on a paper/document, and some partial conclusions on a CNC Kitchen video.
Look for "Industrial vegetable oil by-products increase the ductility of polylactide" for the document, and "Filament Oilers Revisited #1 - not as bad as I thought!" for the video.
Key features of the oil seems to be vegetable, fats, tryglicerids. So mineral and syntetic oils seem not to be good options if u don't want to fall into layer melting/bonding issues.