Get Accurate Prints - Calibrating Your SLA 3d Resin Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- My Phrozen Transform 3d Printer was printing about 2% off in scale. I'll show you how to calibrate any LCD or DLP based SLA resin 3d printer so that it prints out to exact scale. I also figured out that the default settings in ChiTuBox for the Transform, as well as the settings Phrozen gave us for the Transform - are wrong. And I tell you what they should be.
Note that in the video at the end when talking about the 5.5 inch screen I misspoke and read the 6.8 as 8.6.. and then for 68 I say 86. But the numbers on screen are correct - 6.8 and 68.
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![TREASURE - 'KING KONG' COMEBACK SPECIAL [THE TREASURE SHOW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Jx1wyMaQzf0/mqdefault.jpg)
![PERFECT Exposure times (calibration) - dial in your 3D printer resin [EASY METHOD]](/img/n.gif)
I am overjoyed at finding this TH-cam channel. Finally a user for those of us that want to make serious items rather than just goblins and fairies.
I have a machine shop that would like to make parts that actually need to meet certain tolerances. Parts that don’t fit together are a waste of time and worthless, winding up in the trash. 3D printing is as close to magic for us as we are about to get for the near future. There’s no doubt that this is a real timesaver compared to manual, or even CNC machining for a large variety of parts that don’t need to be made of metal. This video is priceless information for me and very likely many others.
Thank you for being there for us.
Cool thanks! I love getting lost in Fusion 360 designing some random part for something.
as an engineer and engineering instructor, I'd like to thank you for making such a clear video on a topic that could scare away many viewers if badly explained.
Subbed exactly cuz we need more people really caring about dimensional accuracy and functional parts;)
Thanks!
The best thing about this is that you taught why and how to apply to other machines. Thank You for not just covering the quick fix and skipping all that, much appreciated and please stay safe.
Agreed. I appreciate this type of video structure. Keep it up @Nerdtronic.
This is what we need, real part how to's. I mostly car and small engine repair parts, not figurines! thanks man, keep em comin. I subbed
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
@@Nerdtronic Have you tried this resin for parts?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082VRZ572/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A340DAQR1F0B17&psc=1
Thanks
yes, dial in for shinkage. It taps and drills, be sure to be at least 80f when printing and cure in water slowly.
@@luckylarry5112 Seriously?
This. Exactly this. I was doing a lot of research before purchasing my first printer but was so turned off by all the guys (Uncle Jessy) going on and on about all their free stuff, and all they ever did was print fantasy figures and gush about the printer's "accuracy and detail", when they never printed a single thing that hand any indication of either. The Quality of a printer is how well it prints a mechanical part, not how well it renders something that doesn't exist.
Man, yours vids are awesome, your approach to 3d printing is like a scientist
oh thank you so much that helped me a lot, before that my dimensions were off like 0.3mm now its fits perfectly thank yo so much you are a life saver thanks for this 4 years old upload
Very informative video on Phrozen Transform. Thanks for making this video!
Just one of the best resin printing channels here for quality content and actual and precise technical descriptions of this stuff. Keep up the great work!
I love it! Most guys using resin printers are running sculpture not mechanical assembly parts and could care less about getting this kind of accuracy. Not me, if parts dont fit, I have a fit! loll Every 3d Printer and RP technology evaluates and use I use the 1st thing I do is print a 1-inch cube to get a baseline of my fitment tolerances, so I know what sort of tolerance I need to model within to make my parts fit like butter. I just printed a 1-inch cube tonight I will see how it measures up in the am. I'm usually happy If I get within + - .003-.005. I think you nailed it getting this figured out! I will change my settings in Chitubox, I really appreciate finding this video, I'm just getting started with my Transform and you had posted a comment to me on FB Chitubox or Phorzen user group today with some input on another issue I was having. So thanks I will subscribe to your channel and keep my eyes peeled for more content.
Thanks. Like I said in the video. Print a larger xy shape to do the calculations. Also. The newer version of chitubox has more accurate size info in there for the transform. I tried it. I actually still prefer the numbers I share in my video. I feel my calculations get me closer.
Brilliant! I did not realise you could calibrate as I thought the screen was fixed, but it makes sense now that its the slicer that can be tweaked! Cheers
Printed a 100mm x 100mm square. Went from 100.64mm x 100.53mm to 100.03mm x 100.03mm. Thank you very much. Now I can get dimentionally accurate prints.
Yay!!
So good u cleared this out, they said one value for the build volume and another for the Chitubox settings.
Hi I've just changed the settings on my Transform and what a difference! Thanks so much for sharing the information.
One of the most clever ideas to really accurate your prints. I use my printer to print technical products. This is a must video, clear, logical, and get solutionts. Most over other videos, 99%, talk abut Time Exposure...Yes this is a factor, very important, but not the only one. Looking at this vide I think the new process to exactly calibrate is . 1) Calibrate the Time Exposure 2) Apply the Video Method.
Amazing.
My congrats to your idea and to your clear explanation.
Thank you for this video. My prints are now fitting 100%.
I have been in the printing/design field for 40 years, as a fan of miniature painting and model building, I took the leap into 3d printing. Your technical tweaking and alterations remind me so much of what I had to go through with the Canon Digital Press, I think these are awesome and will definitely try out your ‘bulge buster’ app in one if your other videos. Excellent work, you are helping us A LOT.
Your videos are some of the most informative I've seen on the subject. Covers technical issues, but in a manner that is digestible for the newer users. You're really great at this and I'm looking forward to more. Peace!
Thanks!
Thx a lot ! Working on an Elegoo Saturn and now going to tune chitu with yours tips! ❤
Thank you! I just wanted to say that your animations on the how prints fail video are awesome!!
Thanks!
I absolutely want to see this channel grow. You do amazing videos man, and deserve a lot more subs.
Thanks. Fingers crossed. It's taking me a while to make my next video. Real work gets in the way :/
@@Nerdtronic yeah it usually does :) But start a patreon and I will support you for sure. But you are doing really great.
You are the reason why I now start looking to one or two of those Phrozen Transform printers. My 2 Anycubic Photon S, and my Wanhao Duplicator 8 are CRAP. Both Anycubic Photon S stopped reading any USB drives what so ever, and one of them is brand new, and was never used. I am so tired of these Chinese Kung Flu figther printers :) Phrozen is from Taiwan correct ? (Fingers crossed)
@@euroriderdk Thanks. I was going to start a patreon and post all my STL's there. But about 5 weeks ago patreon just deleted my account with no reason or warning. I've been trying to get support from them to restore it but no luck. I have a new account there but I'm scared to trust the platform after that. We'll see what happens. They finally are starting to reply to my support tickets. But clearly something weird happened.
@@Nerdtronic Yeah but dont give up, but tell me when you have it open, and I will support you bro, You can write me private on youtube if you want :)
Hello Michael, my name is Victor and I just got your video. First of all, I take my hat off to your amazingly good explanation! Videos like this are the ones that the whole community needs to develop faster and better. Thank you once again, Michael I encourage you to keep doing such good videos! Congratulations from Peru!
DAMN! This was great! Very helpful and thorough. It was also great to hear from someone who doesn't just make miniatures but uses a printer for actual engineering applications. I loved your analysis. This was great! I subscribed!
Wow thanks.
OUTSTANDING content and presentation. Liked and subscribed! You explain things extremely well and that's saying a lot for me, I have always struggled with complex things (especially math) but you made it very understandable. I have experienced considerable size between the digital models and the analog results with my Phrozen Sonic Mini and this explains it! Thank you so much for your content. - Ray
Awesome, thank you!
Dude, this video is GOLD! Nice work
Thanks
One of the best videos I saw for resin printing ever, really helpful and interesting informations, stunning presentation, just perfect. Thanks a lot for your work
Wow, thank you!
This is great info. When I set my printer up I confused the X and Y axis in Chitubox. My projects were skewed severely. I wish I found this video then:)
Excellent! My Photon S was 5% off, and this technique helped me get it bang on. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped!
Awesome explanation to dial in your printer.
Just found your channel and your content is absolutely top notch - this is your first video??? This is quite high quality production and the kind of thing I'd expect from a well established youtuber. I look forward to making use of the wonderful resources and information you've made available on your channel as I get into resin printing.
Thanks Bill. Nice pickle.
Great information. I've been printing miniatures and never realize how "off" the scale was until I needed some functional parts. Now things are certainly more accurate on my printer. Thanks.
Glad I could help!
Well that's...very useful. I'll have to check on this later. I was noticing warping on one of my prints, and it seemed scale was off when fitting together. I suppose this is why. Good stuff.!
I really love your videos - you speak very direct and clear - with great information
These are serious, high dollar tutorials - thank you for sharing!
Very well explained video! Thanks a lot!
Great video, very helpful!
I purchased my first resin printer just recently with the initial exclusive use to do high detail architectural parts out of fusion too, and accuracy was the real driving point. I have a huge delta FDM machine that does those things well (when it isn't trying to self destruct, sigh), but thus far I've been either extraordinarily lucky with how accurate my parts are or correctly 'guesstimated' my profile when transferring knowledge from fdm and composite work to the resin printer.
I'll certainly try your calibration technique with the screen though, as I want this thing dialed in to perfection before moving on to the really key pieces that not only need dimensional accuracy but as they are aero-oriented parts with super tight tolerance, they need to be Perfect (or as close to that magical word as I can get).
Another sub earned in kind!
Great video! Really looking forward to your vent video. I was planning to build an enclosure with a pc fan blowing the fumes into a duct tube and out the window using a window adapter similar to one you would see on small airbrush painting enclosures. Your solution already looks more thought out, so I would love to see what you come up with.
Thanks. I considered doing the tent but I'm hopeful that this vent will be sufficient for at least pulling the fumes out of the printer. I haven't assembled it yet cause I need to film that process. Cleaning chemicals is a whole other thing. The IPA is pretty bad and this vent (or your box) won't help with that.
you deserve a much bigger following. Your attention to detail is matched by your skills with a teleprompter! Thanks for sharing this.
Thank you! That was a great explanation!
Man I wish your channel existed when I started resin printing in 2016.
Fantastic video. Thank you so much.
Excellent info. Thanks.
Very useful information! Thank you!
Very interesting. Who would have thought that the slicer for the printer would come with the wrong settings, seems like Phrozen would have been on top of that. So great job in figuring it out and sharing with us.
It didn’t come with the printer. It’s a 3rd party slicer that supports the printer. And yes who would have thought that phrozen would give us the wrong values. :)
Excellent information. Another thing to consider is the light near the edges is passing through the screen at a slight angle as the lenses are being used to spread the light out more evenly so that only one light source is needed even for a large build volume. So I figure that at the edges of a large print the light instead of going straight up to the resin will be moving outward away from the center. That means a larger part will grow a bit and most of the growth will be near the outside edge of the part. If the light is really evenly distributed and shoots straight up across the whole printer this will be less of a problem. Also there are free radicals in the resin trying to bind and form chains so where ever they might be the part will grow a bit more there than in other spots but that's just a limitation of the technology. But that'll occur more where the light is intense since for any creation of free radicals requires energy so if the light intensity of the machine is more even that'll occur less. A 0.2 percent difference is really good though on a part that size. A part that large though I would have done on an FDM printer or I would have done it in two parts and then glued, resin sealed, or bolted it together. But with that degree of accuracy two parts probably wouldn't be needed.
Thank you! Excellent explanation and animations 👍
Thanks.
the 5" screens are generally 120.96 x 68.04
ugh this was amazing!!! Im currently designing something where the tolerances need to be realllyyy SPOT on and they were all over the place, usually printing larger than how i designed it. This literally fixed our issue
Brilliant information and how to. This will be very useful as I am also interested in getting more accurate for mechanical parts. Liked and subbed. Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
Man , you made my day ! thanks for avoiding me more headaches with that problem
Glad I could help!
Loving the content, this is super helpful.
Glad to hear it!
My X/Y were both about 10% too large, and now they're fixed!! Thanks!!
Glad I could help!
Wow, very helpful . thanks for your sharing.
I think the resin type also effect the ratio in size, so if we change resin it should be re-calibrate the parameter in the software, does it?
No I don't think so. You would change the resin profile. But the calibration of scale is only about the size of the LCD panel. Once you have that dialed in that's it. If the part shinks because of the type of resin, it's something else and I would account for that another way. Like scaling up your part in the slicer before printing it.
Thank you . I'm having issues with X and Z way off since installing chitubox 2.0 basic on my anycubic photon mono .
This looks like it is this issue .
Thanks much
Boom done, Sub to your channel.
Straight forward and explain the reasons and how to fix or figure out the fix. Love it.
:)
Perfect explained. Thanks you very much.
You are welcome!
Hi Michael,
I've some news in regards to Z-Axis calibration. Some printers have flexible joints between the stepper and the rod. This might be one issue. When the printer run into the 0 pos. maybe the flex joint streches a bit. When start printing at first the streched angle need to be overcome...
If there is no flexible joint, the gcode need to be corrected that the stepper move correctly.
For my elegoo the file is called
mars2ChiTu Mainboard SpecificationV3.0.920200902.gcode.txt
There is a line that defines the movemend in Z:
M8010 S0.000625 ; [Z mm-Wert für jeden Schritt] Bei Nicht-Delta-Maschinen lautet die Berechnungsformel: Steigung/((360/1.8)*8).
Here the same math is to use you figured out..
((360/1.8)*8) =1600
Example:
Z-height should be 10 but is 9.5
9.5/1600=0.0059375
The new value for M8010.
So the software calculates more steps to reach the correct hight.
Print the gcode to load it to the printer...
Thanks for the video explaining your way to solve the problem.
Recently I started to calibrate my printer, because I realized that there was a difference with the impressions that I made with the FDM printer. Until then I had not worried since the pieces I made were figures and did not require great precision (the figure would simply be 2% larger).
But when the time came to make a part that required certain tolerances, I could see that it had that, approximately 2% increase in x, y and z.
I gave him to create a new Phrozen Transform printer and to my surprise, the dimensions of the new printer were different from the previous one, possibly due to a change between versions of the program.
Even so, using that new printer to prepare the test piece, there was still an increase in dimensions.
I have always prepared the piece in Chitobox, both the supports and the laminate, and out of curiosity I tried to print with PZslizer and the surprise was complete when verifying that the dimensions of the X and Y printing were accurate. Only the dimension on the Z axis was still wrong.
I suppose that the way to solve the latter will be to scale the z axis when printing. If there was a way to enter the firmware of the machine to modify the motor pitch on the z axis, it would be ideal, but that is light years away from my poor knowledge.
At the moment, I think I will try to adjust the chitobox as you explain in the video, although it will surely change my way of printing and use the chitobox only to prepare the piece and PZslizer to laminate it.
Thank you again for sharing your experience.
Scaling the z is pretty easy on the transform. But if it obeyed Goode properly it would be a little more difficult.
Excellent. Helps alot. Thanks
I appreciate these kinds of "informational" videos, where you don't just say "hey use these numbers for this machine", but rather show us the math so to speak. Going to test this out on my anycubic mono se, and see how far "off" it is. Thanks!
Hi, Daniel. Did your test already? I have a Photon Mono too. Thanks!!
@@jefff3000 I have not, I broke the FEP on my machine and haven't gotten around to ordering a replacement yet
Gained so much time thanks to you! Amazing video, thanks
You're the man! This video helped tremendously!
Glad to hear it!
Brilliant, subscribed!
Great video, thanks!
Thanks. This is really useful. 👍
Nice video. Great info :).
Got a resin printer at work for functional parts and the first parts I printed, my boss was amazed at the finish quality but It ALWAYS ends up bigger than the 3d Drawing... I searched for hours on google and everyone kept talking about time exposure and curing but never this settings! I'll try this out tomorrow hopefully it's doable in Elegoo's Tango slicer!
Excellent, I getting similar scale issue with a new elegoo saturn , and odd angle swelling and drooping
yea cool man... I am getting my Phrozen Tansform within a few days away
Just subscribed. Thank you for this video! I wonder is there 'ready to use for x and y numbers for Anycubic photon mono se on kickstarter...
TKX your sharing , Good video.
Thanks, that really helped to solve my problem👍👍👍
Great to hear!
This is really useful. I have an Orange 10 from Longer 3D and I noticed that the parts were printing bigger than they should. For example I had a statue that came in parts but the parts didn't fit together. After I got the Phrozen Sonic Mini I stopped using the Orange 10 all together, partly for that reason. I actually need to pull the Orange 10 out again for a job that requires it so I'll have to try this out.
good luck
great idea. thank you
You are so welcome!
Class! Thanks for the info! Everything is short and to the point.
Please tell me, what about the splash control method announced at the end of the video?
Very Helpful.
Very nice this is really what i spose to do
Looking for a z axsis callibration
Thanks for information
This guy absolutely knows his sh*t.
Wow thanks.
Good Job.
I had a similar issue with my Mono X and I use Chitu as well. Myself, I would just adjust my actual model in the X & Z, usually between 2 and 1% size difference. The only caveat is that if I have an internal diameter I have to enlarge the hole... but hey, it works for me =]
By the way, AWESOME t-shirt... brings back childhood memories at this thing called the arcade... I think.
VERY VERY helpful...
Brilliant!!
Merci pour le partage de votre experience
Great video!!! Thank you!!!
You bet!
Brilliant but simple technique
Thank you! Cheers!
great video, you got my appreciate sir...
you have solved my dimension accuracy problem!!!! for the longest time people are just telling me to increase my curing time, and it got ridiculous and im still getting inconsistency
as for Z axis, I find that u have to measure something with a known z value that is NOT touching the base plate
over curing the base will lead to a shorter/distorted Z value, thus affecting the overall Z size on a calibration cube.
what are you using for the z axis?
At 9:31, you misspoke on 6.8 and 68. Just in case anyone was hearing impaired would get the numbers wrong. Love your vids!
Thanks! Thanks for the catch.
You had me at 'Dot Gain'... Subbed.
Thanks for the sub.
Excellent video, thank you! Thorough and clear description. Great production value. Well done! Just curious - what video software did you use to create the onscreen graphics and animations?
Thanks! I edit on mac in Final Cut Pro. So some of the simple text is done there. Like the ones with the animated arrow. But all the animation is done in After Effects.
Love this guy. Wish he was my high school teacher
Brilliant video and thanks for taking the time to produce and share it, I was at the point of giving up. X & Y now print perfect, is their a way of calibrating the Z, I'm about 0.04 off. Any help would be much appreciated.
Great video, thanks for your help.. did you do the Z axe?
You are great, my friend!
This really gives me a chance to do it right, right from the start.
Even with smaller parts as lens shades for antique cameras - having a thread - you would need this precision…
See you ;-)
Glad I could help!
love your videos, my dream is hoping that this helps my saturn calibration problems.
I hope so too! There are other reasons, like shrinkage, that can also make your prints come out off scale.
@@Nerdtronic it definitely did, many explanations. Perhaps you can answer this question; I have the wham bam flex system, which adds 2mm of thickness to my plate. Do I need to adjust my Z axis anywhere?
Thanks. I have an Elegoo Mars that also consistently prints 3% oversized on the X and Y axes with Anycubic castable resin. I have a need for my prints to be very accurate so I can I cast closely dimensioned metal parts from them. I had taken it to the point of finding that the oversize on X and Y were proportional to the size of the item printed but that the Z was accurate if a raft was used. I have been using the scale feature each time I sliced a print, but couldn't figure out how to change the default. Now I know!
what were the values you used?
@@Gurps117 Since I wrote the above I calibrated my Mars per the video. Under "machine" and "size" in the Chitubox settings for the Mars I changed X to 68.66 mm and Y to X and 121.2 mm. I'm using Elegoo standard grey resin. The calibration will vary by resin as they have different amounts of shrinkage. Note that X and Y are opposite of what is typical on machine tools. X is front to back instead of side to side. I believe the Z inaccuracies are primarily mechanical and caused by the Z axis screw not being protected against moving when under pressure. I found that a pom nut can be put on the top of the screw to bear on the plate above the screw with a second pom as a jam nut. This serves as a thrust bearing. I machined the top of the pom flat where it bears against the plate to give more surface but that may not be necessary. It is adjusted so that it just barely touches the plate. I'm still fine tuning but that cured most of the considerable lost motion. My Mars was built in mid-2019 and the new ones may not have this problem.
THANK YOU
*68
Really great video thanks, Im using your methods to calibrate my phenom.
Excellent!
@Nerdtronic great video Love your content & quest for perfection.....Keep it up! :)
Thanks a ton!
This is good stuff. I have been having issues with holes being used for screws. I have a Peopoly Phenom. I wonder if this approach would work for it as well
I’ve had some luck tapping screw holes. Depends on the material I think.