PERFECT Exposure times (calibration) - dial in your 3D printer resin [EASY METHOD]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ค. 2024
- Prints fail, or they look rubbish, and the usual culprit for that is incorrect Exposure Times. There's many useful tools to help fix this, including the Phrozen XP Finder which I'll explain here fully, giving a blow by blow demo - along with a few other printing tips 😁
I know it's confusing, hunting around for the perfect setting to match your printer. But the truth is that might not help. The best thing to do is tune in the resin to MATCH your printer. Luckily resin calibration is much easier than you'd think, and here I'll show you how.
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Videos like this that are explicit and clear are so useful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Doing this, I found out something rather handy for anyone using the Tango slicer. There is a LABEL option, which lets you drop text directly onto a model with a click and a drag!
This made labeling my test prints super easy because I can print the notes directly on the print (assuming they print at all! Which might also be worth noting while calibrating...)
You can adjust it to do embedded or raised text and by how much, plus various other options. I'd do this as a last step before slicing, so you can hit undo, tweak print settings, and re-label; since once applied I couldnt find a way to remove the labels otherwise!
Hope that helps anyone else; in addition to this very helpful vid!
Great video, absolutely love printing my own models and these guides help heaps
I’m a total newbie. I printed nice results with one liter of Elegoo water washable gray. Then changed to new fep and white resin. After this the tips started braking off under a cube, the cube stuck to the fep. Initial exposure 60s, layer exposure 8s, too much? I’ll try out an exposure testing, but would be thankful for a comment. Cheers, Ken
My god VOG. Its truly amazing you have put out so many videos and every second of every video is useful. you are one of my favorite youtubers . thank you for never wasting a second of my life. I love watching your channel grow. keep it up man.
Thanks VOG , best exposure test so far. I was happy with my prints before but using this validation just upped my game to my surprise! So simple, you know when you hit the sweet spot without head scratching and squinting. Wee Hoo!
Always a fountain of information. Extremely useful video that will certainly become a great reference. Thank you Geoff.
Glad you enjoyed it 😁
Great tips. Since my support always snap off from my models, i tried to reduce my lifting speed to 2s and 2.5s. After that reduction, most of my models was well supported and lifted without breaking in half way.
As usual a wonderfully complex subject beautifully explained well done Geoff all the best
Thanks Ian. Take care buddy 😁👍👍👍
I did this whole guide and ended up with the exact same settings :D
Great video again! And finally got around to trying out my Phrozen mini 8k with the miniature I've been working on. Look lovely!
I'll bet 😁
Muchísimas gracias por el tiempo que te tomaste, muy meticuloso y claro en la explicación, gracias nuevamente desde Argentina, don de cada falla es mucho dinero!!!
that’s some good and well structured advice - thumbs up
Thanks Kenneth 😁
EXCELLENT! I wondered what the weird dots were in the exposure tool. Great video!
Thank you! Cheers!
Being new to 3D printing, I very much appreciate your videos. Thanks
Glad you like them! 😁👍
At last someone who explains it all, and which do it well. Thanks a lot, I am devouring many of your videos right now !
Glad you like them! 😁
Have the Anycubic M3 and the RERF file was not even in the manual so ended up wasting loads of resin, Much later I found this video and within a few prints I started to see results. Now in a few more prints will have a good quality print and will be able to start printing mini figs and use the printer for what I want. So big thanks to Geoff for your help here and many thanks for the great video
Perfect timing with this video. Getting my first SLA printer in a few days.
Glad to hear it 😁
Thank you for your helpful videos ❤ so far, I really like the ABS like resin - but have found out the hard way , it requires longer layer exposure times . This guide helps
Happy to help 😁
I just got my first resin printer, Photon m3, and your videos have been invaluable to getting started with my printing.
Great to hear! Thanks very much 😁
Thanks, thanks and more thanks! I was banging my head with this problem until you, sir made this fantastic masterclass.
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for this video. I'm currently struggling with Phrozen's Mighty 8k and Resione resin and your video will surely help me find the right settings.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the info, great time saver hands downs.
Thanks buddy 😁
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍
My pleasure 😁
crazy how good and fast these printers have become, even this video is quite "old" for todays printers
I declare this the Definitive Guide on Resin Exposure Times! 😄👍
Many thanks 😁
Nice but I've found ABS resin to have very tricky exposure where 0.1 seconds up or down can drastically change the print outcome. Also with those resins often the exposure tests come out showing both under and over exposure problems making it doubly confusing. Example Sunlu ABS grey which has so far been a great resin for me during exposure testing 2.8 seconds had the validation matrix missing pegs, and holes. At 3.0 seconds it was still missing pegs and holes...however at 2.9 seconds it had all the pegs, and only 1 hole was closed up but had a feint mark of where that last hole should have been. The print results have been great with back to back to back all weekend long print successes.
However most people like to jump up 0.5 seconds or 0.2 seconds and with ABS resin will literally jump right past the right exposure setting and just be frustrated by the resin.
VogMan, thank you!!! i needed this sooo bad!!
No problem. Happy to help 😁
On a Mars 3 Ultra, first few prints using default base exposure of 30sec made them stick really strong to the build plate. This might be good for the print, but was really hard to remove them afterwards.
Later I played a bit and printed at 20sec base layers and they were much easier to deal with and so far I haven't seen failure from the base.
Only a couple fails on 2 supports, which I was testing anyway how thin they can be - it turns out that 0.5 & 0.6 mm are sometimes too thin for long supports :) ... but still the prints were 99% successful - one fail didn't affect the supported part of the model (it was supported by few thin ones, so the rest did their job);
and the other resulted in a slightly crooked top beak of a gryphon (the failed support was holding the very tip of the beak - but you have to look for it closely to notice it).
I also just switched the resin to a cheaper 3DJake basic color mix (and switched the slicer to Lychee) so I used the database to use that resin settings someone else used successfully (once in the db). So since I was pushing the envelope intentionally to failure in order to see what are the problem spots,
I took a human fighter miniature (~30mm scale) made it hollow with walls of 0.5mm (which is 3 times thinner than the recommended thinnest walls), used my custom light supports of 0.8mm mid, and 0.25~0.3mm tip, and very flimsy mini-supports of ~0.2 to 0.25mm. Added plenty of holes to allow the resin to drain of course - that actually turned out a bit easier given the very thin walls and thus larger cavity of the otherwise tiny miniature (bubbles came out when I dipped it repeatedly in IPA, so it seems at least couple of the holes worked ok).
And the print was fine. It's one of the "failures", as one of the flimsy mini supports failed, but it was complementary to the main (still flimsy) support, and I got lucky that the main one survived, and thus the model wasn't affected (but that made me toughen up a bit my custom light support settings to be on the safe side).
The miniature being to small and its cavities so large made it difficult to see details, because the resin was also mostly transparent when first printed (slight yellowish tint), but half a day later it got cloudy enough to be able to see the outside details better.
Btw the extreme hollowed mini I printed on 0.035mm rather than the default 0.05mm.
The result was that I used just over 1ml of resin for the miniature, and again just over 1ml for its light supports.
The model itself (w/o supports) and not hollowed was ~2.47ml, and the default pre-supported print would have been 5.6ml.
So while hollowing out minis isn't really practical (I did it just for the experiment), it seems my custom light supports are working fine (at least for smaller miniatures) - I used about 1/3rd of the supports compared to the pre-supported model. I'm striving for thinner supports not to save resin so much (it's just few ml anyway), but because I noticed that using the (thicker) pre-supported files made it harder to remove the supports and I got 3 breaks, because of it.
I'm printing few test models to fine tune the exposure (the 0.5mm walls hollow mini was exposed at 3.7sec with that resin on the mono- Mars 3)
Thank you it was a v good video !!
This is great thank you ☺️
No problem 😊
thanks a lot for the videos my friend!
My pleasure!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching 😁
The corners is meant to simulate different textures on models. Phrozen have released their own video on the print where they explain it.
Also Thank you for the videos, This video and your others videos have already helped me a ton. Just got a Photon Ultra DLP after watching your reviews on it.. 😁
Thanks for sharing! I'm sure you'll love the Ultra. I still do. 😁
Great video as usual, always a very difficult exercise. I do make as well several tests but never tried with the Phrozen support. I will for sure. What stunned me however is the level of warping of the resin that you tested. And it is like this (more or less) for all the resins I tested (not a lot but quite a few). This is really driving me nuts. Any chance you could explore a little bit more warping issues and non-warping resins? Thanks mate
I believe that the extreme warping you see here has more to do with long & short exposure times in a single thin part than anything else. Once it's not held flat by the build plate, the more exposed bottom layers want to expand more than the less exposed detail layers, and the part is so thin that it just warps around itself. In a normal model where the bottom layers are only raft or supports, this would not happen to the final product.
I would just tape the part on the base as it is curing,
Very useful, i just subscribed
Thanks for the sub! 😁😁😁
Many thanks again!
No worries!
@@vogman what is the best castable resin for casting with stones?
Excellent video.
I can't get the holes at the top. The rest is fine. What is the reason?
The pace of your videos is excellent for a moron like me!
Thank You very Much
No worries 😁
If you go to anycubics site they have an exposure test file that prints little blocks exposed at 2,2.25,2.5,2.75,3,3.25,3.5 and 3.75 all in one single print it's very helpful so you don't have to keep pulling them out and curing each one
That sounds like a RERF file. These are great, but typically only work on one specific printer 😁
@@vogman yeh your right actually only works on the photons I didn't realize that
They are good. Every printer should have one really 😁
How's your enclosure printer been working out for you? I decided to build one vebat6im to your video about it and I found the resin gets too soft during use and is pretty much unusable... I used Siraya Tech Sculpt for my enclosure - which is supposed to be much more resistant to heat compared to other resins.
Rally thinking of buying something like a Saturn or even Mega 8k. But, what's the state of the 3d resin market? Are more models likely to come out in the next year? A lot of resins reviews are a year old so wondering if some popular models may be due an upgrade? The tech moving fast, and some have been out a a while. Unsure what to do.
I can't find any information about what the holes are for, but I noticed that my burn-in layers were set a bit low and the holes were showing signs of filling-in, so that would be my guess - to test the burn-in layers.
I miss zMUDS it was some of the finest resin I ever used, can't find any of it anymore.
If the holes on top are clogged up does that mean that I should reduce the bottom layer exposure time? thanks
Hello! thank you for this super useful video! I'm using this calibration model to find out the settings for a castable resin, the Phrozen wax-like violet. I'm getting there with the exposure, just a few more tests and I should be fine. What troubles me is that the holes were never neat in every test I launched, and in some cases they fail completely and end up with closed circles. What do you think I should do to fix this problem? Is it just the exposure o could it be some other settings?
did you find the problem ? i have the Same issue too.
have you tryed to use formlabs resin w40 on anycubic premium?
what is a good setting for the mono x UV Power % using Siraya Tech Fast Smoky Black?
Great 👍👍👍👍
Thank you 👍
how did you get to that lychee settings page and how do i apply those settings to my halot lite?
I bought some Anycubic Basic grey resin from Amazon. After printing a few tests I found the best looking test was a round 5 seconds. Seems extreme for a Mars 2 pro mono screen. The bottle does say 5 seconds but I assumed that was for an rgb screen. Does this sound like an extreme amount of exposure? I printed a model at 5 seconds and it looked pretty good 👍
How long dose it typically take for you to print a sample?
Hey, I am intrested in printing jewellery models for casting, I have my eyes on sonic mini 4k, do you think that's a good starting printer in that price range?
So what would get adjusted for a colder environment (since it's currently winter)? Would it be a longer "wait before print" number?
Last winter I had a terrible time printing. I lost track of how many failures I had, and it was all down to temperature.
This year I built this heater th-cam.com/video/bQmmGj6gMdk/w-d-xo.html that fits inside the enclosure and keeps everything nice and warm. It's a worthwhile investment.
my holes on my xp finder are not all the way through and the pillars are very flat is this still over exposed as my exposure level on the base seems very low already.
I have the issue that my prints seem overexposed when looking at the bars on top and outside of the circles and the letters seem rather thick. but the dots of the 'i's never get printed
I am using a Anycubic Photon with painted bleck Anycubic Resin on 50µm, 7 to 9 seconds, 4 to 6 bottom layers and 10 times bottom layer exposure, 25°C room temperature. I don't know what I'm doing wrong here
I was about to dislike, but the information at 7:20 changed my mind: when I was setting the exposure time, I spent 1 month of time and 2 liters of resin trying to figure out why my print was breaking off. And all thanks to the "smart" bloggers who claimed that the time from the tests is the ideal time to print. And only Vog and Phrozen offered a normal option with an increase in this time by 10% ... 20%. My printing was constantly failing and I could not understand what was wrong, because the printing time was "exactly correct" - I changed the divisions, their position, number, supports, orientation, but nothing helped. And then I got bored and I increased the "ideal" time from 1.45 to 2 seconds and everything worked (now reduced to 1.78). And by the way, siraya tech has a better test - it contains a cube on supports - this test is more informative.
Trying to set up my printer. On day two and still getting prints that fail and stick to the fep sheet.
Can't tell if it's a leveling issue or a curing issue.
Do we know what the adjustment should be if the holes in the test object are sealed over?
I never worry about the tiny holes James. With resin printing you generally get a little swelling on the bottom layers that closes the tiniest holes. If you dial in for those, you'll lose out somewhere else. These tests aren't about getting the best of everything, but just a good average. It will serve you better.
Should the process be repeated for each layer height we intend to use?
Absolutely. You'll need to reduce the exposure time as you reduce the layer height 😁
Hum. What about "Tableflip Foundry" calibration model ?????? I'm in process to calibrate resin time but i have some big difference between calibration models. On siraya tech build i have good result at 4.5s with siraya tech calib stl, but i need 6.5s on tableflip model. Someone can explain that ???? And for those who print a lot what mode do you use for Calibrate ?
When printing the different exposure times, are you cleaning and releveling the vat every time? Thanks in advance
Unless you have a print failure, there's no need for cleaning the tray. Personally I wipe over the plate with a paper towel just to ensure the surface is free of anything. Mix the resin in the tray gently with the plastic spatula and you'll be able to "feel" if anything is stuck. If it is, THEN it will need emptying and cleaning. Otherwise carry on.
As for levelling, it's rare that I level. Once done it should last ages, and I mean months!
Hope this helps 😁
@@vogman thank you again
love the XP2 test, use it all the time. I often mix resins so its very helpful to get the right exposure.
I've never tried mixing, but folks tell me they get excellent results 😁
Can't make my choice between the phrozen mini 8k and the photon mono x 6k, any idea ? (i do figurine stuff around 15+ cm)
well I've not seen 6k prints but with the difference from 4k to 8k is not a lot. if you do stuff that big you'll probably not notice the very slight increase in detail for the 8k. I'm printing on a mars 2 (2k) and for big stuff its great. I would only worry about getting a higher res if you are printing 28mm minis.
I did these test prints today. 2,3 - 2,4 - 2,5 - 2,6.
Even when zooming with my phone, they are all practically identical 🤷🏻♂️.
So I printed 2,2 and 2,7 these two are almost identical also 🤷🏻♂️😳.
These should be quite a difference if I have understood anything.
The only place I can see the smallest difference is if there are dots above the I’s or not.
What do I do wrong?? Any guesses??
I’m a total rookie, but I am (almost) sure they have different exposure settings in the files. (Can You check this somehow?)
I importer the file in Lychee (free version) and changed the exposure time, saved to usb stick, changed again, saved to usb stick etc.
Did you see any correlation between your test prints and actual prints? I dialed in my resin with test prints (or so I thought) just to have failure after failure with minis due to supports failing. Also, how reproducible are your results?
Once you get the ideal print, you must add at least 10% extra to the Normal Layer time. This should get you there (it usually does for me). If the supports aren't forming, you're underexposed. If they form but there's no print, you may be Lifting too fast. Slow it down a little.
@@vogman Thanks, that's a great tip to add 10%. Ironically, I've had better experience with VROOM settings than slower prints, or at least no negative impact. Always worth re-evaluating though.
Which test would you say is the most reliable and worth spending time on, ameralab town or this one ?
The pillars and tower of the ameralabs makes it more useful for dialing in ideal structural strength of your resin, which makes it a more applicable test for pre-supported miniatures.
Honestly, I've always dialled in with the XP2, but I actually like this Phrozen tool so I'll probably swap. Then, once I'm happy, I'll print the Town test. I won't dial in with the Tow as it takes too long to print and I could do 4 of the XP Finders for one Town. BUT... I like to finish on the Town. If it prints that well, I know I'm good for most anything 😁
how does layer height effect the results. so if i dropped layer thickness to 0.25 how would that effect the settings
Each layer height needs a new set of tests. Times for 0.05 will be longer than times for 0.02, as thinner layers need less exposure.
Hey VOG, have you narrowed down an optimized setting for .02mm layers with 8K resin? I'm working through this process in parallel with the Phrozen exposure tuning model and a few tuning models simultaneously. The exposure is looking like it's in the 1 second territory with my room temp right around 24C. At .8 seconds I'm seeing delamination begin. It's a very low exposure threshold at this layer thickness between perfect prints and potential failure. I just wanted to compare results.
Thanks! - D
Just curious, what settings did you end up with for siraya cast?
Believe it or not, I haven't used Cast with the Mini 8K yet. But obviously I will and when I do, I'll share my settings 😁
@@vogman What about with a mars 2p or 3?
Will this test work with other printers? Like the Elegoo Mars 3?
Yes, any resin printer 😁
Where can i get the excel file with the exposure by resin and printer name?
I've printed this in .5 second intervals from 2.5 seconds to 4 seconds. Every one of them looks exactly the same. Yes, I know what to look for. I read the guide on the Phrozen site. They all look the same.
I tried the Cones of Calibration test and got what seemed to be a successful test at 2.7 seconds. I printed out one at 2.8 seconds and it showed failures. So I printed another one at 2.7 seconds. Worse failures than the one at 2.8 seconds.
I don't know what the hell to do.
Picked up q bottle of zmud and for the life of me I can't get my prints to stick to the supports. I ran all the exposure tests(8 in total), picked the best added 10%, am printing at 20mm lift speed (down from 90 with anycubic gray), 26°C resin, changed and tuned my fep, leveled the bed. And it still isn't working. What else can I do
I'm printing loot studio minis with presupports.
I was finding that the elegoo clear red had this issue for me as well, tried everything you did, but even with 5x the normal support I was getting failure. My solution was to mix in some of my siryatech resin, as it is a lot stronger.
I now usually mix resins to get the best qualities.
I just bought Form Futura Engineering SLA Series and my prints aren't working aka no print.
It's not a resin I've tried. But go at it with a high exposure time initially, higher than you'd usually use. Over-exposed will print, even if it isn't pretty, allowing to the slowly reduce. Under exposing just leave you stripping down, filtering resin, cleaning vats, etc. Boring! Call me lazy, but I like an easy life 😁
@@vogman awesome thx. Another question....what settings would you use, if one exists, to make the print more durable? Would exposure time make it stronger
Hello my friend, I went to the link and entered the site in order to download the test model, but unfortunately the site says that I am not licensed to access them and this made me feel frustrated for not being able to participate with you in this interesting experience. Is there a reason for that
If you use this link...
helpcenter.phrozen3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/6324821843993-How-to-dial-in-any-resin
it should go through to Phrozen's website where you can download the image without issue. The second link takes you to Thingiverse.com where you can also download it freely, but I believe you have to register first. If you haven't done that, I'd recommend it. It's a great free resource. There's no hidden catches to sign-up that I've seen.
@@vogman Than you
great vidio im still new to this and have done fantastik with no failures to speak off but the shere thought of fucking up a 10 hour+ print got me scared shitless, so better learn the craft before boarding the raft i guess.^^ Was realy well explained and helped me conect some dots i was clueless about so this 11 minutes are a great value invest ;b
Thanks buddy. You will get your feet wet, you have to really, but you'll get there 😁
Is it the camera, or are the test prints warped?
resin that thin will warp when cured, yes.
No, it's warpage. It's something I've noticed with this ZMud resin. Thin sections can curl once UV'd. Not very impressive really.
Increased bottom layers and over exposure will kill your display quicker than anything. It produces excess heat that will destroy it.
You're absolutely right Andy, but look at it this way. I do a test print at 2 seconds and it fails. I've wasted 2 seconds of lifespan. If I over expose at 3 seconds, I get my print, so I haven't wasted electricity or resin, and I may have only over-exposed by half a second. We have to tune in somehow. I've heard crazy stories of people starting at 5 minutes etc. At least here there's a better guideline for folks to follow, hopefully one that will minimise waste and lost time.
yesssssss
😁😁😁
I think someone is using your voice to narrate, “Money for Nothing” with Jay Blades.
Bonjour VOG,
J’utilise une Sonic Mighty 4K et j’essaye de calibrer plusieurs résines pour optimiser mes impressions.
Merci pour ton travail et ton partage. J’ai réussi à développer mes savoirs en impressions 3D.
Cependant, je rencontre un problème concernant les troues sur « l’xp Finder » (7 troues en haut de là pièces) même après plusieurs calibrassions, ils restent bouchés. Qu’est-ce que cela signifie ?
Existe-t-il un document pour lister les conséquences et influences des paramètres d’un « slicer » ?
I don't have a 3D printer, but it is interesting to know that they are definitely not 'plug and play'.
My original mars was pnp 100%, my mono x always needs fine tuning.
Knowledge is never useless 😁😁😁
Yup, they are great fun though, so don't let it put you off if you fancy getting one. Personally I never got on well with FDM printers, but fell in love with resin printing almost immediately..
yep, you have too plug, level the bed, pour the resin and then go!.
Why why why don’t they just send a url of this vid to people along with their first resin printer? It would have saved me so much time (and resin).
Thanks for the kind comments. We all live and learn. I learned the hard way, so I like to make videos that help people have a less troubled time than me 😁
you make reallly great video, i just kinda get pissed of by your name and the background music. why do you call yourself veg oil guy? i dont get it
Yes, I'm kind of stuck with it, which is why I call myself VOG these days. But when I started out on TH-cam I converted my diesel car to run on Veg Oil, hence VegOilGuy. Of course popularity suddenly occurred for other subjects but I'm kind of stuck with the name. So VOG is the best compromise I can come up with. 😁