I print boxes, stuff with straight sides directly on the base without any supports I find that gives me perfect sides on all sides and it prints much faster.
Very nice! I’m a beginner and I actually understood what you were saying. Learning new tech at age 66 isn’t the easiest thing in the world for me. Can’t wait to play with my settings today! Thanks for the explanation and sharing your knowledge!
Finally someone explained how to tilt models that are not miniature figures. Thank you! Will be using this when I print out some building details and vehicles for my model railroad.
I remembered watching this video a while ago and I have posted a link to it on the Galaxy 1 group on facebook today (4/12/23), I tried this method on my Saturn printer and it did really work so hopefully others will find it useful too. I look forward to applying the same to my Galaxy 1 printer, although haven`t yet.
Oh my God thanks for the tl;dr! I watched the whole thing, but I always wish video creators would do this. It makes this so much more useful as a long-term resource.
So, without doing the calculations and based on this comment thread, if my pixel size is .018 (Mars 4 Ultra) then I need to set my layer height to .018? I don’t know if I can even go that thin for layer height, and even if I could wouldn’t that dramatically increase my print time (more layers, longer print time)? Of course, if you’re going for the highest level of detail, time to print needs to be ignored. I started out using .05 layer thickness but already considered going down to .03 for my prints. I think these layer heights are getting so thin that we’re reaching a point where you need a magnify glass or microscope to see the layer lines, even if we don’t optimize the angle. Not trying to be lazy choosing my angles; however, I may try some experimentation with some test prints to see if it really matters with my tiny .018 pixels.
Just came across this because I was having problems with sagging surfaces. I was trying to print things at a square to the bed, I wasn't thinking in the context of layering to make it smooth. Thanks!
I tried this today with my SM4K : IT WORKS !!! Thanks for the explanations. The formula can even be improved for a smoother finish. After watching this very instructive video about the printing angles on 3D printers, I noticed that these parameters are all calculated for prints parallel to the pixel rows. many of my friends and I noticed that rotating the parts on the build plate gives smoother results. I took my old calculator (Yes... the 35 years old one I had at school) and after rotating the part by 45° on Z axis, the new formula is : H = layer height W= pixel width A= Angle A= Arctan (H/Sqr(2W²))
I’m new to SLA (Mars 2) and it’s been boggling my mind why all my organic shaped objects (miniatures etc) are coming out awesome but I have not been able to get a decent looking print out of a simple cylinder shaped container. Your video is showing EXACTLY how crappy my results have been. I can’t wait to try your method. Thanks!
I'm in the same boat Any and all flats or some what rounded flat surfaces are showing this layer affect. Being pretty noob I thought it maybe a lil bit cloudy fep, after watching this I've learned more But I've used 45 degrees in every print It's just not working out to get rid of lines at 45 Google mars 2 and Saturn pixel widths and they same the same .050 🤷
ELEGOO MARS 2 - They claim pixel size is 0.05 but based on my experiments its actually around 0.051. So use 44.43º instead of 45 for a layer height of 0.05.
Great video. I 'm impressed how clear the explanation was. I did some more research on physical dimensions of my printer. I found that single step of Z axis motor moves by 0.000625 mm. So, setting layer to 0.051 mm would require 81.6 steps. Printer would round it and proportions in Z axis would be wrong. So it's better to calculate angle correctly rather than change layer height to mach pixel size.
With Chitubox, importing your sliced file back into chitubox will reconstruct the print with the layers that the printer will make. You can get relatively quick feedback showing how each layer stacks up.
SUPERBB. Thank you so muchh. I own photon mono. I know about 44.43 degree thing. I always did that. What I DIDN'T know is that you can change the layer height to 51 microns! I always thought that the printer can't do that (0.001 mm Z axis step). This is mind blowing. The option is always there but I didn't realise that until I saw this video. Now I can make the perfect cube like you did! thank youu
Thanks so very much you solved my resin warping problem. Had difficulty figuring out what you meant by Pixel Width but then listened to what you where saying a couple of times. I have an ANYCUBIC PHOTON M3 which has a 23 micron pixel size. So i set my print hight to .23 and rotated my model to 45 degrees and it came out perfect. Thanks again.
This formular worked perfectly with my Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K, but I have just bought the new Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, which has rectangular pixels instead of square pixels. How can I calculate the correct angle?
Same process you just have to make sure you are angling the print in the direction of the pixel size you calculated. Basically there are 2 different angles depending on if you angle towards the x or the y.
There's a pretty good one by dennis wang who explains and shows the effects of angle, anti-aliasing and image blur on some test prints that have multiple blocks at different angles to show the effect of each on the print. He also shows the effects on some tanks with some of the different settings. Video is pretty good and well explained and he took care to actually show the effects rather than "well, you can't really see it on camera but the surface looks worse/better."
For others out there that just want to calculate the layer height given an angle the formula is tan(perfect angle)*(resolution). Or in excel =TAN(RADIANS(Angle))*Resolution.
For me what worked the best for the past years from working with DLP printers is it depends a lot on the model. I used to do figurines at around 30-35 degrees and cube style parts at around 35-40 degrees on one axis x/y and around 15 on the other axis if I recall correctly This was for the Envisiontec Perfactory 4 printers btw
Incredible! Some suggested this video when I was searching to why my straight edge prints were warping and sagging! Guess what….I’m also printing tanks 😂
Very useful. I'm not sure why, but I was somehow picturing the granular structure of resin prints to be different from fdm. This was a great solution because it quantifies it. You got a new subscriber!
Nice. Because the Elegoo Saturn has layer heights and pixel width of both 50 micron, then the angle actually is 45 Degrees! It doesn't get more perfect than that!
Just started resin printing and still learning how it all works. After alot of research this video explains it very clearly and im not a smart person by any means but this just made sense. Im going to try it out right now on my next print thanks.
Great video. Couple of questions: 1. When you demonstrate optimizing orthogonal flat surfaces, you only optimize the angle in the Y dimension. Why not also X and (if relevant) Z? 2. In some examples you nudge the layer thickness to achieve a 45 degree angle. In others, you nudge it to achieve a seemingly random angle < 45. Why not always shoot for 45?
Some printers don’t do as well as others at supporting a 45° angle. The mini 4k for example seems to have a hard time with a 35 layer height. And sometimes you need smaller or bigger layers for other reasons. But at 45° you are locked into a single layer height.
Why did you use supports on the flat cube? I print a lot of enclosures for electronics projects and I print right off the build plate. The biggest issue I have had with it is one you glossed right over. If you look at the bottom side of your flat cube in your video, you can see a big difference between the layers making up the bottom side and where it transitions to the vertical sides. I even sometimes get gaps and hole at the transition line. To help with this I started to make the higher exposed bottom layers include the entire bottom side of the model. That way there's better adhesion at the transfer line. As long as the side facing the build plate is flat it works great. I even have good results printing text and images into that side.
Awesome video, you should try printing the nylon-like resin at different temperatures and longer post-cure times to squeeze extra strength out of the parts. I’ve heard a little extra UV and heat can increase strength and toughness a ton!
thank you so much for this! I'm trying to print large swords and couldn't find any video that detailed angling square like objects with two flat sides!
FANTASTIC VIDEO.... I'm new to resin printing (monoX) and wondered why people say "print at 30° or 15°". The equation was perfect (I understand that). The rest of the video is perfect 👌 explanation. I have subscribed and will be watching. Thanks for the time and effort you put into this video. Siskel and Ebert give it 👍👍
Brilliant video! Thank you so much! But i a little bit confused about the axle. You applied the angle to different axles Y and X. So what axle I have to use?
FYI: For the Photon Mono X the pixel width is 0.05, which gives you an optimal angle of 45° with the default layer height of 0.05: arctan(0.050/0.05) in degrees = 45
I’m new to 3D printing and just getting my AnyCubit Photon mono 4K out of its box but this is exactly what I need as I have a bunch of rectangular, flat surface parts to print fit the Interstellar Endurance model. I’m a bit at a loss, just where do I find the later height and pixel width? I looked in the Photon Workshop 64 software settings and I think it may be what is labeled as X-Y Pixel size um 35, as the Photon mono above it shows your 51. Also, I didn’t get the parts you said you did the changed AFTER the export? Don’t you just take the exported file from usb to your printer?
Hey bud. Just got my own Mono 4k and I was wondering the same thing but I calculated the pixel width to be 0.034mm or 34μm, which is 132mm/3840px. Haven't ran these same tests yet but that's what I got on paper. How'd your prints turn out?
Randomly came across this as we were trying to figure this out yesterday. Great video. We are running a Formlabs Fuse 1 SLS with Nylon 12 Glass Fill and we were "eyeballing" the correct angles in the chamber and playing with the "show" surface quality.You get big steps in any slightly angled X/Y as this machine in powder is a .110mm layer and the laser is at 200micron...so if my brain can still do math (questionable) we are looking at between 28-29 degrees... Appreciate the video.
I know this is an old video but since the problem I have is related to latest developments in screen resolutions I thought I would ask. How do you calculate the ARCTAN of a screen that has a different pixel width on the X axis x Y axis? (a rectangular pixel resolution instead of a square)? For example... The Uniformation GKtwo 8K has a square 29.7 μm pixel resolution. Easy enough to calculate. The same printer with a 12K screen has a rectangular 19 μm on the X axis and 24 μm on the Y axis pixel resolution. How do we calculate the ARCTAN here? Do we just average, 19 + 24/2 - 21.5? Won't that sort of defeat the purpose of trying to get an exact angle?
What is the difference in the wrong angle and having to subtract 90 etc? When does that happen opposed to just typing in your correct angle? Awesome video btw!
Thank you from heart! But my Anycubic M5s say the pixel size is 17x24 or something like that. I think i will have different setting depending from the X and Y orientation?
The 0.04725 Pixel size is for the Anycubic Photon you will find .Where did you find calibration cube for a resin printer ? Keep up the good videos a big help to me .
I dont' know if you or anyone else will still see / comment on this...but what about compound angles (specifically to reduce the cross-section face). That is, rotate both in the x and in the y direction. Auto-orientation often seems to try to do this anyways. Would the literal best possible cube be rotated by the formula in the x and y direction?
11:50 You dont have to recalculate the angle if you just put a minus in front of the angle. But mind that it is going to shift the model into the other direction.
ELEGOO MARS 2 - They claim pixel size is 0.05 but based on my experiments its actually around 0.051. So use 44.43º instead of 45 for a layer height of 0.05.
I suppose its just more simply put you want your layer height to equal your pixel size. Then the formula always works out to the perfect 45 degree angle.
Wow, very good -posible- explanation of whats happening to.me , i got a photon mono x , i think that making hollog with infill could produce yhis lines, but i need to test it, im thinking about all the yuotubers videos i saw before i made my purchase ,No One even mentiin this "isiues", or layer lines, they allways said "quality,well its a resin printer, its print perfect out of the box" Well we known now the true
Great explanations, your prints looks great. My prints with vertical flat walls 90° to FEP, like a rectangle for instance, have ugly lines-marks-stripes a cross the model. I'm using an anycubic photon mono and the model is at 45°. Faces at 45° look great Any advice, suggestion or comment is will be very appreciated.
A question I have for this: On a Mars 2 Pro with a pixel width of .050" and a layer height of .050" the angel is 45 degrees as discussed. Intuitively, one would expect at a layer height of .025" that 45 degrees would also work fine, in addition to 22.5 degrees (with exactly half the layer height you would expect to still get even pixels twice as often). However, the ARCTAN of (.025/.050) is 26.5650512 degrees, not 22.5, which would imply based on your formula that 22.5 is no good. It's been a long time since calculus classes in college.. what am I missing?
Thank you. Could we have a follow on video specific to non-flat surface models. I do functional printing where flat is common, but most of my learning challenges are more "organic" shapes.
There isn't really a calculation you can do that I know when there are going to be curves. But I do have one coming on how to hide as much as you can on those models.
@@TrueEliteGeek Pixels are rectangular on the higher resolution screens. e.g. the 12K screen used in the saturn 3 ultra and some others are 19 x 24um, so it gets more complicated.
I quite like the striped patina of 3D prints - it catches the light in interesting ways. I always use epoxy filler and sanding if I need a proper flat surface.
(9:40) - Because you are printing a Cube (or an object that has two flat surfaces at right angles to each other) and using ArcTan to get the 'perfect' angle, the other side (perpendicular) will always be off, UNLESS you set your Layer Height and Pixel Width Identical so you get a 45 deg angle. What if your two flat surfaces that connect along one edge are not perpendicular? You are going to get 2 different angles, only ONE of which is the perfect angle... Also, you have printed your cube along one edge of the cube. Does this also apply if you printed off of one of the corners? How does that effect the 3 sides that are now printing in a non-flat/perpendicular orientation to the base plate/vat?
hey bro, first of all, great tip! So, i am printing figures medium and large sizes, but when i add suport the edges close to the supports got round for some reason, any tip to help me out? Like, a figure sliced on the legs, i put some angles on the leg and the cut lose its shape, leaviing a gap when i put ir all together. Thank you!
ps i know this vid is old but that chart was posted on the Photon S facebook group like 3/4 years ago, i had is saved at one point (it was made for the photon S, it has a .047 pixel width) photon s at .020 Hight angle is 23.05 degrees.
I only came across this angle a few days ago, so thanks TH-cam. My question is this, at one point you change your layer height from 0.05 to 0.51. Can a printer even do that? I seem to recall my Phrozen shuffle only being able to do layer heights in increments of 0.01. From a discussion where people were printing at .025 instead of .03.
It depends on the printer. This printer does it just fine and it works perfectly. But some of my other printers don’t seem to be able to these small increments.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
I print boxes, stuff with straight sides directly on the base without any supports I find that gives me perfect sides on all sides and it prints much faster.
Very nice! I’m a beginner and I actually understood what you were saying. Learning new tech at age 66 isn’t the easiest thing in the world for me. Can’t wait to play with my settings today! Thanks for the explanation and sharing your knowledge!
Finally someone explained how to tilt models that are not miniature figures. Thank you! Will be using this when I print out some building details and vehicles for my model railroad.
I remembered watching this video a while ago and I have posted a link to it on the Galaxy 1 group on facebook today (4/12/23), I tried this method on my Saturn printer and it did really work so hopefully others will find it useful too. I look forward to applying the same to my Galaxy 1 printer, although haven`t yet.
Oh my God thanks for the tl;dr!
I watched the whole thing, but I always wish video creators would do this. It makes this so much more useful as a long-term resource.
Thought I wanted the tl;dr, stayed for the whole thing because it was so interesting. Great video. Thank you.
Brilliant. As a shortcut, it seems if you set your layer height to the same as your pixel size, then you can always use 45deg.
No idea if you'll see this, but how would you go about doing that? I have a M3 Max and I get crazy layer lines at .05 on flat surfaces.
@@johnprescottonline M3 Max has an XY pixel resolution of 0.046 mm, so setting your layer height to 0.046 would get you flat surfaces at 45 degrees.
Good point. If your printing a cube I think that will make all 4 sides pristine. I need to try it though
I discovered this as well when calculating! I feel like that could have made for a shorter video.
So, without doing the calculations and based on this comment thread, if my pixel size is .018 (Mars 4 Ultra) then I need to set my layer height to .018? I don’t know if I can even go that thin for layer height, and even if I could wouldn’t that dramatically increase my print time (more layers, longer print time)? Of course, if you’re going for the highest level of detail, time to print needs to be ignored.
I started out using .05 layer thickness but already considered going down to .03 for my prints. I think these layer heights are getting so thin that we’re reaching a point where you need a magnify glass or microscope to see the layer lines, even if we don’t optimize the angle. Not trying to be lazy choosing my angles; however, I may try some experimentation with some test prints to see if it really matters with my tiny .018 pixels.
Just came across this because I was having problems with sagging surfaces. I was trying to print things at a square to the bed, I wasn't thinking in the context of layering to make it smooth. Thanks!
I tried this today with my SM4K : IT WORKS !!! Thanks for the explanations. The formula can even be improved for a smoother finish. After watching this very instructive video about the printing angles on 3D printers, I noticed that these parameters are all calculated for prints parallel to the pixel rows.
many of my friends and I noticed that rotating the parts on the build plate gives smoother results.
I took my old calculator (Yes... the 35 years old one I had at school) and after rotating the part by 45° on Z axis, the new formula is :
H = layer height
W= pixel width
A= Angle
A= Arctan (H/Sqr(2W²))
OH. Good call. I hadn’t thought of that. Testing tomorrow.
How was the test?
Following.
It wasn’t as good as I had hoped. And then I have had my printers running non stop on others things and haven’t gotten back to it.
45° for SM4K?
I’m new to SLA (Mars 2) and it’s been boggling my mind why all my organic shaped objects (miniatures etc) are coming out awesome but I have not been able to get a decent looking print out of a simple cylinder shaped container. Your video is showing EXACTLY how crappy my results have been. I can’t wait to try your method. Thanks!
Hey. So have you tried the calculations? How did your flat objects fare?
@@bentalls85 yeah it works. 45 degrees. But it’s still not great.
I'm in the same boat
Any and all flats or some what rounded flat surfaces are showing this layer affect.
Being pretty noob I thought it maybe a lil bit cloudy fep, after watching this I've learned more
But I've used 45 degrees in every print
It's just not working out to get rid of lines at 45
Google mars 2 and Saturn pixel widths and they same the same .050 🤷
ELEGOO MARS 2 - They claim pixel size is 0.05 but based on my experiments its actually around 0.051. So use 44.43º instead of 45 for a layer height of 0.05.
Great video. I 'm impressed how clear the explanation was. I did some more research on physical dimensions of my printer. I found that single step of Z axis motor moves by 0.000625 mm. So, setting layer to 0.051 mm would require 81.6 steps. Printer would round it and proportions in Z axis would be wrong. So it's better to calculate angle correctly rather than change layer height to mach pixel size.
Interesting point
With Chitubox, importing your sliced file back into chitubox will reconstruct the print with the layers that the printer will make.
You can get relatively quick feedback showing how each layer stacks up.
That’s great to know…thanks!!!
What would you recommend for a printer with an asymmetric pixel size. My printer is 19 micron in the X and 24 micron in the Y.
SUPERBB. Thank you so muchh. I own photon mono. I know about 44.43 degree thing. I always did that. What I DIDN'T know is that you can change the layer height to 51 microns! I always thought that the printer can't do that (0.001 mm Z axis step). This is mind blowing. The option is always there but I didn't realise that until I saw this video. Now I can make the perfect cube like you did! thank youu
Really appreciate the TLDR type of setup of your video.
A great hint when printing good-looking flat surfaces. Thanks!
Thanks so very much you solved my resin warping problem. Had difficulty figuring out what you meant by Pixel Width but then listened to what you where saying a couple of times. I have an ANYCUBIC PHOTON M3 which has a 23 micron pixel size. So i set my print hight to .23 and rotated my model to 45 degrees and it came out perfect. Thanks again.
Finally I found the answer in this video what I am looking for. Thank you so much for this informative video!
Very nice video explaining this in a thorough and easy to grasp way.
Glad it was helpful!
I always print boxes and flat objects directly on the base plate without any support!
It is very easy with a flex plate.
Thanks for the video. I've been struggling with those artifacts for a while now.
This formular worked perfectly with my Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K, but I have just bought the new Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra, which has rectangular pixels instead of square pixels. How can I calculate the correct angle?
Same process you just have to make sure you are angling the print in the direction of the pixel size you calculated. Basically there are 2 different angles depending on if you angle towards the x or the y.
As you mentioned this benefits models with flat surfaces. Could I request a video that goes over the anti-aliasing? Pros/cons. Thanks a lot :)
yea, i think this is where anti-aliasing would come in affect -- curious to see how well it works
There's a pretty good one by dennis wang who explains and shows the effects of angle, anti-aliasing and image blur on some test prints that have multiple blocks at different angles to show the effect of each on the print. He also shows the effects on some tanks with some of the different settings. Video is pretty good and well explained and he took care to actually show the effects rather than "well, you can't really see it on camera but the surface looks worse/better."
For others out there that just want to calculate the layer height given an angle the formula is tan(perfect angle)*(resolution). Or in excel =TAN(RADIANS(Angle))*Resolution.
Finally an answer that makes sense! Thank you!
thank you, very great explanation if my curent problem
For me what worked the best for the past years from working with DLP printers is it depends a lot on the model. I used to do figurines at around 30-35 degrees and cube style parts at around 35-40 degrees on one axis x/y and around 15 on the other axis if I recall correctly
This was for the Envisiontec Perfactory 4 printers btw
Incredible! Some suggested this video when I was searching to why my straight edge prints were warping and sagging! Guess what….I’m also printing tanks 😂
Coool.. GOing to try it right now :)
Thanks for the guide
interesting video Where can I find the pixel size of my Saturn Elegoo?? Thanks a lot!
Very interesting. I love seeing when the rubber meets the road when it comes to math and real life.
Very useful. I'm not sure why, but I was somehow picturing the granular structure of resin prints to be different from fdm. This was a great solution because it quantifies it. You got a new subscriber!
Bro i'm not even kidding, this is the most usefull video i've seen on YT!! Probably because i'm into SLA printing but that doesn't matter hahaha
Nice. Because the Elegoo Saturn has layer heights and pixel width of both 50 micron, then the angle actually is 45 Degrees! It doesn't get more perfect than that!
Great video indeed! I linked it countless times as a response to this question on Reddit :)
Just started resin printing and still learning how it all works. After alot of research this video explains it very clearly and im not a smart person by any means but this just made sense. Im going to try it out right now on my next print thanks.
Great video. Couple of questions:
1. When you demonstrate optimizing orthogonal flat surfaces, you only optimize the angle in the Y dimension. Why not also X and (if relevant) Z?
2. In some examples you nudge the layer thickness to achieve a 45 degree angle. In others, you nudge it to achieve a seemingly random angle < 45. Why not always shoot for 45?
Some printers don’t do as well as others at supporting a 45° angle. The mini 4k for example seems to have a hard time with a 35 layer height. And sometimes you need smaller or bigger layers for other reasons. But at 45° you are locked into a single layer height.
@@TrueEliteGeekThanks. What about my first question?
Why did you use supports on the flat cube? I print a lot of enclosures for electronics projects and I print right off the build plate. The biggest issue I have had with it is one you glossed right over. If you look at the bottom side of your flat cube in your video, you can see a big difference between the layers making up the bottom side and where it transitions to the vertical sides. I even sometimes get gaps and hole at the transition line. To help with this I started to make the higher exposed bottom layers include the entire bottom side of the model. That way there's better adhesion at the transfer line. As long as the side facing the build plate is flat it works great. I even have good results printing text and images into that side.
This was interesting! Thank you for the insight. I have had this issue on a few prints but now I will try this
That was awesome and answered all my questions. Thanks a lot!
Awesome video, you should try printing the nylon-like resin at different temperatures and longer post-cure times to squeeze extra strength out of the parts. I’ve heard a little extra UV and heat can increase strength and toughness a ton!
Im having a hard time figuring out what my printers pixel width is, how did you find yours?
thank you so much for this! I'm trying to print large swords and couldn't find any video that detailed angling square like objects with two flat sides!
This video is a must see. thank you!
Great video and excellent description. You could be a tutor with your skills!
FANTASTIC VIDEO....
I'm new to resin printing (monoX) and wondered why people say "print at 30° or 15°". The equation was perfect (I understand that). The rest of the video is perfect 👌 explanation. I have subscribed and will be watching. Thanks for the time and effort you put into this video.
Siskel and Ebert give it 👍👍
Awesome! Thanks for sharing! Would never of thought of trigonometry to solve such a problem.
Brilliant video! Thank you so much! But i a little bit confused about the axle. You applied the angle to different axles Y and X. So what axle I have to use?
This info is pure gold
I bet this same logic can be applied to FDM, but in slightly different ways. excellent
FYI: For the Photon Mono X the pixel width is 0.05, which gives you an optimal angle of 45° with the default layer height of 0.05: arctan(0.050/0.05) in degrees = 45
Thanks! Hey, how do you know what the pixel width is?
Most of the time it will be listed on the manufactures website either in microns, um, or mm
I’m new to 3D printing and just getting my AnyCubit Photon mono 4K out of its box but this is exactly what I need as I have a bunch of rectangular, flat surface parts to print fit the Interstellar Endurance model. I’m a bit at a loss, just where do I find the later height and pixel width? I looked in the Photon Workshop 64 software settings and I think it may be what is labeled as X-Y Pixel size um 35, as the Photon mono above it shows your 51. Also, I didn’t get the parts you said you did the changed AFTER the export? Don’t you just take the exported file from usb to your printer?
Hey bud. Just got my own Mono 4k and I was wondering the same thing but I calculated the pixel width to be 0.034mm or 34μm, which is 132mm/3840px. Haven't ran these same tests yet but that's what I got on paper. How'd your prints turn out?
@@astro7473 How did you determine pixel width? I'm trying to solve for my Phrozen Sonic mini 8k.
Thank you interesting stuff! Does this matter with a 8k printer, since the pixels are much finer anyways?
Randomly came across this as we were trying to figure this out yesterday. Great video. We are running a Formlabs Fuse 1 SLS with Nylon 12 Glass Fill and we were "eyeballing" the correct angles in the chamber and playing with the "show" surface quality.You get big steps in any slightly angled X/Y as this machine in powder is a .110mm layer and the laser is at 200micron...so if my brain can still do math (questionable) we are looking at between 28-29 degrees... Appreciate the video.
I know this is an old video but since the problem I have is related to latest developments in screen resolutions I thought I would ask. How do you calculate the ARCTAN of a screen that has a different pixel width on the X axis x Y axis? (a rectangular pixel resolution instead of a square)? For example... The Uniformation GKtwo 8K has a square 29.7 μm pixel resolution. Easy enough to calculate. The same printer with a 12K screen has a rectangular 19 μm on the X axis and 24 μm on the Y axis pixel resolution. How do we calculate the ARCTAN here? Do we just average, 19 + 24/2 - 21.5? Won't that sort of defeat the purpose of trying to get an exact angle?
Awesome question and a major reason I chose the Mars 4 Ultra over the Saturn 3 Ultra!
This is gold! have to try this this weekend
Great video, but what about a compound angle? That's another one often hear about.
Hi, nice video!!! Could you tell me the pixel width for elegoo mars3 pro and Saturn, thanks
What is the difference in the wrong angle and having to subtract 90 etc? When does that happen opposed to just typing in your correct angle? Awesome video btw!
sorry didn't get where I find the pixel width of the printer...mine is m3 max..thank you, very interesting video
Super useful, made me realise there's logic to this hobby too.
Thank you from heart! But my Anycubic M5s say the pixel size is 17x24 or something like that. I think i will have different setting depending from the X and Y orientation?
not all heroes wear capes....
thank you very much!
Super helpful and solves my pixelation problem. Thank you!!
The 0.04725 Pixel size is for the Anycubic Photon you will find .Where did you find calibration cube for a resin printer ? Keep up the good videos a big help to me .
0.047 also for the Prusa SL1
I dont' know if you or anyone else will still see / comment on this...but what about compound angles (specifically to reduce the cross-section face). That is, rotate both in the x and in the y direction. Auto-orientation often seems to try to do this anyways. Would the literal best possible cube be rotated by the formula in the x and y direction?
11:50 You dont have to recalculate the angle if you just put a minus in front of the angle. But mind that it is going to shift the model into the other direction.
Great video, very informative, have subscribed to learn more tips
ELEGOO MARS 2 - They claim pixel size is 0.05 but based on my experiments its actually around 0.051. So use 44.43º instead of 45 for a layer height of 0.05.
really? that's maybe why 50 micron layer height, 50 micron pixel with, 45° angle still produces artifacts. it's 51 microns!! going to try that
Priceless information ❤️❤️❤️thank you so much!!!!!
I suppose its just more simply put you want your layer height to equal your pixel size. Then the formula always works out to the perfect 45 degree angle.
Nice video. What would the Anycubic Photon Mono M5s Pro be. XY Resolution is 16.8X24.8um? I think its arctan(0.02/0.0248) = 38.884. Sound right?
Thanks for the video, but how can I see the pixel width in anycubic photon workshop
Wow, very good -posible- explanation of whats happening to.me , i got a photon mono x , i think that making hollog with infill could produce yhis lines, but i need to test it, im thinking about all the yuotubers videos i saw before i made my purchase ,No One even mentiin this "isiues", or layer lines, they allways said "quality,well its a resin printer, its print perfect out of the box"
Well we known now the true
Great explanations, your prints looks great.
My prints with vertical flat walls 90° to FEP, like a rectangle for instance, have ugly lines-marks-stripes a cross the model.
I'm using an anycubic photon mono and the model is at 45°. Faces at 45° look great
Any advice, suggestion or comment is will be very appreciated.
A question I have for this: On a Mars 2 Pro with a pixel width of .050" and a layer height of .050" the angel is 45 degrees as discussed. Intuitively, one would expect at a layer height of .025" that 45 degrees would also work fine, in addition to 22.5 degrees (with exactly half the layer height you would expect to still get even pixels twice as often).
However, the ARCTAN of (.025/.050) is 26.5650512 degrees, not 22.5, which would imply based on your formula that 22.5 is no good.
It's been a long time since calculus classes in college.. what am I missing?
I thin yuo think in a line function, see tve tang functiom
Thank you. Could we have a follow on video specific to non-flat surface models. I do functional printing where flat is common, but most of my learning challenges are more "organic" shapes.
There isn't really a calculation you can do that I know when there are going to be curves. But I do have one coming on how to hide as much as you can on those models.
Thank you for this great video, very easy to understand!
here is the formula. WHY ISN'T THIS IN THE DESCRIPTION?
arctan(layer height/pixel width)
EXAMPLE:
anycubic photon mono
arctan(0.050/0.051) in degrees
Interesting!! But you are taking in consideration onde side/lenght of the pixel; are pixels square? Tks
Pixels are all square. There probably is an exception somewhere. But I haven’t heard of it.
@@TrueEliteGeek Pixels are rectangular on the higher resolution screens. e.g. the 12K screen used in the saturn 3 ultra and some others are 19 x 24um, so it gets more complicated.
I quite like the striped patina of 3D prints - it catches the light in interesting ways. I always use epoxy filler and sanding if I need a proper flat surface.
Hello do you know the pixel width of the anycubic photon mono 4 k?
Thanks a lot
Verry good videos
(9:40) - Because you are printing a Cube (or an object that has two flat surfaces at right angles to each other) and using ArcTan to get the 'perfect' angle, the other side (perpendicular) will always be off, UNLESS you set your Layer Height and Pixel Width Identical so you get a 45 deg angle.
What if your two flat surfaces that connect along one edge are not perpendicular? You are going to get 2 different angles, only ONE of which is the perfect angle...
Also, you have printed your cube along one edge of the cube. Does this also apply if you printed off of one of the corners? How does that effect the 3 sides that are now printing in a non-flat/perpendicular orientation to the base plate/vat?
This is some awesome info, thanks!
does anyone know what the pixel size is for the EPAX E10 please
Verry informative video!
great vid. how does one find the pixel width?
It should be on the manufacturers page for the printer.
gosh i love this video. so so good
This is awesome but im not sure how to calclate for my saturn 3 ultra with the non square pixels
very cool, looks like antialias might help with this quite a bit though
It does. But AA isn’t great on these big flat surfaces.
This is perfect, thank you! It completely answered all my questions about angles!
Thank you so much!!! what is the Pixel width on Phrozen Sonic mini (no 4k) ?
This is helpful. But how do you know what the pixelwidth of your printer is?
All the manufacturers will list it on their website as pixelwidth, or x/y resolution in either microns or fractions of a millimeter.
hey bro, first of all, great tip!
So, i am printing figures medium and large sizes, but when i add suport the edges close to the supports got round for some reason, any tip to help me out?
Like, a figure sliced on the legs, i put some angles on the leg and the cut lose its shape, leaviing a gap when i put ir all together. Thank you!
Well done Sir
Very informative. Thanks!
ps i know this vid is old but that chart was posted on the Photon S facebook group like 3/4 years ago, i had is saved at one point (it was made for the photon S, it has a .047 pixel width)
photon s at .020 Hight angle is 23.05 degrees.
I only came across this angle a few days ago, so thanks TH-cam. My question is this, at one point you change your layer height from 0.05 to 0.51. Can a printer even do that? I seem to recall my Phrozen shuffle only being able to do layer heights in increments of 0.01. From a discussion where people were printing at .025 instead of .03.
It depends on the printer. This printer does it just fine and it works perfectly. But some of my other printers don’t seem to be able to these small increments.
Thanks. Gonna give this a try.
Really good video. Thank you