Remove the Elephant's Foot from Resin 3D Prints - Plus NEW FREE Bulge Buster App
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ย. 2020
- IMPORTANT UPDATE - Bulge Buster is no longer supported. The app was a proof of concept and not long after it was release the functionality was added to Chitubox. Look for a setting called tolerance compensation.
The Elephant's foot can ruin your 3d resin prints when you print right on the build plate. In this video I discuss 3 methods for removing the elephant's foot bulge and show you how to use an app I made called Bulge Buster to process 3d print files and remove it. However as I said the app is no longer supported.
The shirt I'm wearing in this video is not my own slogan but is from the Screen Rant Pitch Meeting videos featuring Ryan George. We find them pretty funny - check them out. No connection to this channel. I'm just a fan.
My hat - well if you know it put it in the comments. It's custom made and not for sale unfortunately.
To support this channel please use these amazon affiliate links below. Here are some of my normal supplies:
The food trays that I put in front of my printer to catch parts on. These are ridgid and therefore a little better at holding liquid and spills than the ones in my resin handling video: amzn.to/3lo3bQK
The rubber mats as seen in the resin handling video- amzn.to/3pmhfws
Metal Funnels - amzn.to/39ZU56y
IPA - amzn.to/2T0uFzS
Spray Bottles - amzn.to/2T2q7t2
Nitrile Gloves - amzn.to/2Tm6T0c
My Mask - amzn.to/3cgvWL5
Tea Strainer for Recycling IPA - amzn.to/3c7ZJFr
And this is my favorite resin: amzn.to/3kln4qe - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Wow, That is some serious effort you did! Not only with the app develpment and testing etc, but also in the making of the video. I love that you show renders of how the resin printer works for example, and also the very detailed explanations, all acompanied with footage. Seriously a testament to patience and discipline! Well done and thank you.
Thank you very much! Check out my video on Why Resin Prints Fail which has more animations and explanations.
Thanks for all of your hard work. I'm sure that many resin printer users will find this tool invaluable.
I hope so!
I thought I understood enough about FDM and SLA printing until I saw your videos. The visualizations that you use are probably the easiest to understand that I've come across. Thank you!
Great to hear! Thanks!
This is great! I also see this as something that will or should be standard in slicers. Absolutely brilliant. On of those things that seems obvious once it has been invented. I am looking forward to using it. You earned my subscription long ago, but it now comes with my admiration along side!
I like that you don't rush projects and how thorough you are. SUBBED.
Shirts from other youtubers is TIGHT!
Well ok then! ;)
Came back from the future to say when it’s time for the wash that shirts gonna need to get aaalllllll the way off of his back!
I am absolutely blown away by this! The work you've put into this is stunning, and your presentation is excellent. I used to code clients server applications, so I appreciate what you've done here. So glad I've subscribed to your channel!
Wow thanks!
That is incredible amount of research you made for this video, and all your videos explain perfectly hiw things work on a deeper level. Best 3D printing channel out there, thank you so much for you work!
Wow, thank you!
Crazy! Thank you for putting in so much time creating this solution!
You bet!
Fantastic work, sir! You have some of the best content and one of the most effective presentation styles on TH-cam. It's clear that you put a lot of work into each video and I look forward to where you'll take this channel.
Thanks. I hope to take it towards doing more project oriented videos. Build some cool stuff.
Oh my! What a quaity of life improvement. TH-cam, where did this video hide so long?! Will try out right now...
Keep up the good work!
as a newbie diving into resin printing, finding your channel has been a godsent.
the production value is great, the script straightforward and professional. And at the same time you seem like a great guy who just enjoys what he does.
I am adopting your safety workflow, upgrading my printstation and now I can't wait to also experiment with printing straight on the plate.
Cool! Good luck.
Amazing work! Congratulations!
You are helping much more people than you can imagine.
Nice to see smart improvements in this technology.
Thank you for all your effort and experiments. I will give this a try.
Best of luck!
Overexposure is not the only culprit of elephant's foot. There is little time for resin to settle after the build plate has entered the resin, positioning itself as the next layer is exposed. Some printers allow per layer settings and can be tuned with UV tools
This is absolutely something that needs to be integrated into chitubox and other slicers. Brilliant way of reducing the elephant's foot!
I assumed that they'd borrow the idea and put it in there, but I'm not sure they're going to. They have similar features but not exactly this. To really replice the functionality of the BB app you also need to print the test chips so you can find the best reduction for your resin.
As always your videos are VERY well done! Clear and helpful, but most of all you explain your logic and the testing of your theories. This helps us to understand rather than just "take someone else's word for it". By the way, I agree with your daughter - something dimmed 10% is 90% of its original brightness. I have shared links to so many of your videos, probably the most has been Calibrating Your Resin 3d Printer. This will be high on the list! BRAVO and THANK YOU!!
Thank you very much!
Thank you ❤️This is pretty amazing work, you just became one of my heroes.
Love that you did both windows and Mac versions.
Thanks.. and Linux 64 bit
Thank you! Alot of hard work went into this. I can see this becoming a popular app!
The timing of this video couldn't be better, thanks for all your efforts! Photon Mono X is arriving today, and I'll predominantly be printing functional mechanical parts.
It’s possible that printer needs a .pws or .photons file (with an s) in which case it won’t work yet.
@@Nerdtronic I'm absolutely new to resin printing, but technically minded. If you need help in any way testing this or porting this to the newer version anycubic machines let me know and I'll try and help out.
Very interesting stuff. Thanks for walking us through your process. I'm looking forward to giving this a try.
Hope you enjoy it!
Kudos to you. You obviously spent a good bit of time, sweat equity and intelligence into this presentation and the APP. This graphics and animations are very understandable and it helps to see how you drew your conclusions. I am new to Resin printing but not to 3D printing. I am confident this app will have a place in my work. Thank you
Welcome!
Wow this project is so valuable and you helped the whole community with this app, excellent job
Thanks
This is AWESOME! Selective dimming is a really elegant solution to this problem.
Thanks!
You're a madman and a genius, in the best possible way! I just want to be able to make simple miniature bases printed straight to the bed without distortion and without too much elephant footing. I look forward to trying some of this science on my bases. Thanks for all you do Nerdtronic, you're the man!
I was looking at this video for this exact reason. Have you had any success with printing miniatures directly on the plate without an elephants foot?
I do development work and I can appreciate just how much effort you put into this app. Especially when combined with the very technical nature of what it's trying to accomplish and frankly the experimental nature getting rid of the elephants foot bulge.
Just amazing work. Simply amazing. Thank you for all your efforts
Thanks. Yeah it took more work than I hoped or expected.
Thank you for sharing your hard work with us! I can't wait to try this.
Just discovering your channel. You are evidently a very clever person! Fantastic.
Oh thank you!
- No doubt you made a great effort doing this video, and then you top it up with the app; a million respect for you, sir.
I resolve this issue of the Elephant's Foot by giving a 45-degree chamfer to the edge of the part, a chamfer slightly bigger than the resulting total height of the bottom exposure base.
You did an excellent job!
This is invaluable advice and knowledge, thank you for sharing it.
Very interesting and good explanation of the technical issues. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Amazing!! Clever ideas and a lot of hard work. Cant wait to use them on my projects.
Kudos to your explanations and efforts!
Thanks
Absolutely incredible, I have been struggling to fix the bulge on gears I am printing for a puzzle box. I appreciate all the work you put into this, very very well done :) Also, Fred Johnson would commend you for your hat :)
Excellent, this will save me a lot work sanding off the foot on timing pulleys.
I use my printer for functional functional prints and I tend to use the lowest possible exposure to get the tolerances as tight as possible and I get the best results when I print directly on the build plate. One disadvantage though, is the limited bridging distance.
Have you ever thought about trying to improve bridging distance by increasing the exposure time on layers with an abrupt transition?
It seems like your software allows you the ability to contract and over-expose arbitrary layers in the print which could enable stronger overhangs.
Keep up the good work!
Amazing work, thanks for putting the effort into this. Will be trying this on the Saturn soon.
Good luck!
This is terrific. I am just getting my first resin printer and I am looking forward to using your tool. Thank you.
The tool isn't currently being updated and there are now issues with loading files since Chitubox locked up their file format. There are new ways to do it in Chitubox. Not exactly the same but will still work.
Thank you for all your hard work!
This channel is so under rated! Subscribed!
I love the pedagogic scientific approach to explaining and testing.
The tshirt is hilarious btw.
Thanks. The shirt is from another youtuber's channel. Ryan George.
thank you for your tons of effort into this and especially supports for the mac users!
nice work, been doing that already. You make it much more clear on so many points, good work.
Cool, thanks
This is brilliant, and I look forward to trying it!
I know a comment doesn't mean that much but I want to thank you for not just making a video but also making a meaningful contribution to the 3D printing community
this is so incredibly thorough thank you so much!!
Welcome
I am very intrigued by the 8mm film scanner. I worked for 13 years at a small video production company in the late 90's early 2000's. One of the things we did, pretty much continuously, was convert old home movies to video. I was constantly frustrated by the limitations of the equipment. I am very curious about what you have come up with!
This is fantastic! Would be so nice to see this integrated as optional settings directly in ChituBox.
NEW FINDING OF THE MAIN CAUSE! Elephants foot is mostly caused by resin STILL FLOWING as it gets "squished out" underneath the built plate. This flowing resin cures as it flows, causing the elephants foot. How to FIX the elephants foot? Wait till the resin has stopped flowing before turning on the UV light. This pretty much completely removes the elephants foot. For details on how to do this, look up the blog by Jan Mrázek.
Thank you for working so hard at this problem. I am just starting out and gathering information and your videos have been extremely well done in a way that helps me absorb the information I'm trying to understand very thoroughly and in a way that fills in the tactile, practical, and conceptual details. I ordered the 4k Photon and I'm waiting for it to ship. You worked out a really great solution to this problem!
I'm in the process of wrapping my brain around how printing and curing and light intensity all intertwine. Have you considered that the only time this is an issue is when the build plate is so close to the LCD that the light halo from the open pixels able to reflect diffused light back down at the intensity required to cure the resin?
The light from underneath is not coming through at a specific angle, but the intensity of the halo is lower because the light source is farther away.
If you have your intensity set properly, there isn't enough light to even partially activate the surrounding resin through the rest of the build, otherwise you would have a bunch of floaters. I am thinking it needs a certain intensity of light to start the activation, in addition to a certain exposure time to fully cure the layer before moving to the next layer.
This would mean to me that the majority of the elephant foot is formed from light coming in directly perpendicular to the pixel. The fact that as the foot shrinks as the first layers build seem to confirm this hypothesis as the intensity of the reflecting light would reduce with each layer as it's absorbed by the cured resin.
I'm curious to know if the problem is reduced by using an anodized black build plate or a matte black magnet mat like I use on my FDM printer.
It may be as simple as adding a matte black adhesive vinyl over the build plate. I have some and I will try it out as one of my first experiments when my printer gets here.
P.S. you're dimming the light intensity, not the pixel. A fully blacked out lcd TV display would be 100% dim, lol.
Amazing work! your channel is a lifesaver
Happy to help!
This is a great video. Thank you so much, will try it right away.
Have fun!
Well done! Very clever approach(s)!
I think the double exposure would be the most accurate. Ironically, I have Herringbone Gears to accurately print! When I saw this, I was quite impressed! 👍👍👍
Thanks! In my experience actually the pixel dimming works the best.
Thank you for all your work. Very cool.
2k likes? should be more like 200,000... we do know how much effort it took, because comes from passion! keep doing what u do, we love it.
Amazing work. I don't sub often but you've earned it!
Wow, thanks!
This is amazing innovation. Let's hope this catches on throughout the industry. Let's hope you get some reward for trailblazing.
You sir, are a treasure to the printing community. As a new maker I have learned so much from your content, which is clear, concise, and interestingly presented.
Then to top it off you come out with something like this which is going to be literally a game changer for sp many people.
Thank you. Seriously thank you for chosing to be an educator for this community.
Wow, thank you!
No hyperbole! I love how he says "this project took me longer than I expected"
I would expect it to take me ... Well I wouldn't even know where to start so literally forever? Dude is amazing.
This is an amazing resource! You have a gift for this stuff, and for explaining it perfectly! I do have a question - in your experiments with bottom layers, do you have a feeling for what the actual thicknesses end up being? Is it possible, given the limited movement of the build plate to have additional thickness because of the long exposure, or is this physically limited by the build plate movement?
It should be limited by the build plate movement. I wouldn't think a longer exposure could make that first layer any thicker in the Z. However, I have noticed that some 3d print files set the first layer Z value to zero and some to , and then also on z calibration maybe you use the piece of paper method. So it is possible that the first layer could be one of several different height - while the rest should be . And I don't have the expertise or equipment to analyze or measure it. For my test files I did a layer height of 5 microns so I could really tell what the build plate was doing.
Very cool. Thank you for this and the effort you put in. I print a lot directly on the build plate so this is really good news for me :) You got a sub from me for sure
Amazing video, super thorough. I might add however, that when printing small parts that do not need overexposure, there is another technique i just tested. Step 1 lower the number of bottom layers slightly and bring exposure down as well. Step 2 when designing the part add a champfer on all edges that will touch the buildplate. Step 3 tweak the values of all 3 changes until the elephants foot fills in the champfer. Then if still an issues try the pixel dimming above.
Just like we do on a FDM printer , except for the pixel dimming :-D
extreemly interesting and relevant to what I have been trying to do.
Doing an incredible job! looking forward to a photons addition.
Hopefully I can add that. Can't promise when yet.
Thanks mate! Awsome work :)
Glad you liked it!
You can do this in Chitubox, go to print settings - advanced option - bottom tolerance compensation
What can I say, Michael? Except that you make me wanna be a better 3-D print Hobbyist. I tip my entire hat collection to you sir!Great job
I wanted to wear a different hat on each video but I don't think I'd have enough room to store the hats. At least if I make all the videos I want to make. (life goals)
This is just what I needed. Saved me so much grinding g
I was just looking for a way to reduce or eliminate elephants foot on my Mars 2. Thank you so much for this. And a linux version, even! Cannot wait to try this out.
Try out the tolerance compensation features that are now built into the newest version of Chitubox (1.8.1). I'm going to test nerdtronic's app and the tolerance compensation features in Chitubox on my mars 2 and see how they compare in terms of convenience and functionality.
@@jaredjones6570 Thank you. I am new to all of this resin printing. I'll give that a try.
I bought a resin printer to print planetary gearboxes, the elephant footing has been a critical problem for me. I will be testing Bulge Buster on an Elegoo Mars, I will let you know the results. Thanks for putting in so much time and effort!
Good luck!
Love this channel, can you please make the cleaning tutorial you mentioned in your dogtag video. My prints dont look as good as yours after post processing!
Yes it is coming soon. Q1 2021
THX! Great explaning ))
Wow! Thanks for this amazing and super detailed tutorial, excellent work ! I have a question, does the app work with Anycubic Mono X ?
What file format is that? I don't think it does YET. I have some other projects that I have to complete first and then I'll add some more file support. If Anycubic wanted to send me a printer to test I'm pretty sure I could get it working ;)
@@Nerdtronic The Anycubic Photon Mono X uses the file format .pwmx which is currently not supported by Chitubox, but is supported by Photon Workshop slicer (said to be very buggy) and Lychee Slicer which I have just installed as I need to start printing with my Mono X soon. Your videos and presentation style are excellent, I wonder when your next video is due from time to time as I always learn something. Thank you for your work!
Working on my next video now. Printing Chocolates with a 3d resin printer. Well... sort of :)
Hi, this is realy awesome video and it helped me quite a lot to understand how SLA works in etail. The program looks also really good, but I cannot use it, since I have only photon mono x. I tried to print some gears and shafts, but I was unable to do so, due to issue described oin this video. (with supports I was also inable to print because the gears are ussually not strait)
I would like to kindly ask you if it would be possible to add support for *.pwmx files for anycubic?
Thank you a lot.
Very Nice. In Chitubox, you can also use the "bottom tolerance" setting in the advanced section to shrink the overall outline of just the bottom layers to compensate for the elephants foot.
Thanks for the info! Chitubox can't print the bottom reduction test so you can see how many pixels to reduce. I sort of think that's a key part of the calibration. It also doesn't have the pixel dimming method.
Still, glad they are starting to put this functionality right in the software. I wonder where they got the idea? 🤔
Bulge Buster was more of a proof of concept. I'd be fine with it just being part of the slicer.
I just figured out Lychee could also do this in the Resin Configuration -> Compensation -> Burn in Layers -> px
Impressive work! You just got a new subscriber :)
Awesome, thank you!
There's also a simpler method at the only cost of spending a bit more resin - don't print on the build plate (which I'm always to do with miniatures bases for example), use some supports and the elephant foot will be left only on the supports/raft, which goes in the trash.
This video is very interesting from the aspect to understand (and control) precisely the printing, but I don't think it's very practical for most people (unless it's somehow automated in next gen printers)
Btw, if I understand correctly the transition layers purpose is not so much to reduce the elephant foot (they can't reduce it on the very bottom layers that take the full exposure anyway),
but to ensure more gradual curing condition of these layers, to prevent delamination (by having two layers being cured at 10 times different speeds)
On these larger printers the UV intensity is alway default to 100% it can have a massive effect of over exposure trying to dial in your exposure settings! Even dropping it to 90% makes a massive difference in getting that exposure dialed in! We follow a couple of professionals and trying out some of their findings over a few of our printers the light intensity works great on the elegoo printers and uniformation and Of course Phrozens printers as these seem to have a super stong UV light that needs dropped to around 80% light intensity
Great job, thank you!
Thank you too!
I also think the rough & reflective build plate will disperse the UV light to surround resin near bottom layers, causing elephant foot aswell.
great video!
And due to the reflective of the build plate, i think the bottom layer resin tend to receive higher UV intensity, because the UV light will come through the resin to the build plate, and reflected by the build plate, and expose the resin again.
Yes, this is true, I've noticed this more when I started using my reflective Flex Plate, and even more when using translucent resin.
While it's commendable to acknowledge your efforts in testing and developing this feature, I must mention that Lychee Slicer handles elephants foot perfectly and with ease, especially with the grayscale feature. Additionally, I'd like to inform you that printing on the build plate is only advisable for flat and thin parts, such as the wheels you've tested. The bed offsets are not perfectly flat right out of the factory. If you desire perfectly squared faces, you'll need supports. Resin is not FDM. You need angles from the lcd screen for good balance of forces.
wow, awesome video and project:) would love to have that also work with the Photon Mono X :o any update on supporting more printers? Or are there any other workarounds? (besides using support material of course)
Hi, great content...thanks for sharing your expertise. I just got into resin printing for functional parts and I'd like to ask you a question. It seems the best way to print functional parts for dimensional accuracy and speed is bottom down (flat on the build plate). One problem with that, aside from bulge, is the large cross-sectional area makes FEP release problematic. I noticed your build plate at 17s is full of parts printed flat down. How do you ensure consistent FEP release?
Stick the build plate in a ziplock bag and then in the freezer for 15 min. The parts will fall right off.
@@Nerdtronic thats a good tip thanks. But are you ever concerned with too much suction during the print from the large cross-section?
This is such a fantastic initiative; explaining the issue, different approaches to combat it and then, the cherry on top, an application to assist us in combatting exactly that! What more could we ask for? Massive kudos!
(Except for this little itty bitty thing, that might be user error, but I just can't get to work;
I downloaded the latest version, got it running without issues.
Dragged a cbddlp on it, loads just fine.
Chose "Method: Pixel Dimming" and made a few adjustments.
Exported the result to a new file (it still ends with cbddlp, cause I only have a Mars, so the PHZ-format won't work)
Dragged the newly exported busted cbddlp file in, loaded just fine.
Clicked "Unpack Images", and I can see the PNG:s just fine
Here's the issue: No matter how I adjust the settings in Bulge Buster, for Pixel Dimming, the only results that are applying is the Contract Radius (and Bust Layers). The Dimming% does not apply, there are no grays in the resulting images, as you show in your video.
Halp!)
Extra question: Is there anywhere we would be able to discuss this (or other Nerdtronic related topics) other than TH-cam comments? I couldn't really find anything pointed out anywhere.
This is amazing! 👏👏
Thanks!
Thanks!
Great work my friend. I was having trouble printing small letters and they would always end up with this elephants foot but not now!! I have used this on my Elegoo Mars 2 :)
Oh glad it worked. There is also a function inside chitubox now that does it. For when my app stops working, which it will as soon as you upgrade to the latest chitubox. :(
Great work, waiting for Anycubic mono 4k.
Genius genius genius. Amasing u solve big problem :)))
Thankss
Awesome work man
Thanks a ton!
In using BulgeBuster, I've discovered, at least on my Anycubic Photon and Elegoo ABS like, that even with pixel dimming, which I find very interesting, that while I can match dimensions for bottom and regular layers, there's still an Elephants Foot that's about 0.1-0.2mm larger, regardless of settings and bottom layers. I'm guessing it's because no resin is 100% opaque, and the uv light is reflecting off the bed for an arbitrary thickness of resin until the layers are thick enough to absorb all the light, over exposing the first few layers regardless of exposure time or busting. I discovered this whole printing a overhanging bevel directly on the bed and found it wasn't flush, but I noticed it on perpendicular faces as well. At first I thought it was just the nature of overhangs and sla printing, but I didn't see any similar artifacts when printing with supports. I haven't had the time to test this and I lack high precision tools, but I think I can alleviate this by a pure pixel contraction for the height and length of the ridge, and further doing a subsequent pixel dimming.
Thanks for this explanation Bradley. I think you've definitely figured why this is happening. I'm seeing this more with translucent resin. I have some Siraya Tech Blu Obsidian Black (more opaque than what I've been using) and this will let me test out this theory. I think this might also have something to do with fact that I'm using a highly reflective Flex Plate that is exacerbating the issue. Some prints just don't work well with supports unfortunately.
Great work indeed! Maybe you could also add the gears as a default test file in the installation?
I just got my printer about a week ago, the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4k is awesome but I'm having trouble printing mechanical parts with straight lines. hopefully printing on the build plate can help me get some more consistency. I'll try it either way, but I was wondering if you thought that the overexposure method would work on other Phrozen printers? or is it really just exclusively the transform?
Really appreciate the depth on this topic that only a true nerd would delve to (said with pride, as a fellow nerd and rabbit hole diver). The app is amazing! Even though I couldn't see how it would work with my Photon.
Your work, and description of the problem (awesome graphics!) inspired me in two ways. First, that printing on the base isn't a sin; it actually might be preferable for parts that really need a flat base (like most of mine). Second, that there might be a way to counteract the bulge, and save all that knifing and filing and sanding (I just thought I'd have to live with that, as an artifact of the process).
So, inspired by your work, I did something that wouldn't have occurred to me otherwise. I measured the height of the bulge, and put in a chamfered edge of that height (45 degrees), across the entire bottom surface of the source model. STL'd it out, C'boxed it using no supports, printed it out. And the bulge is almost entirely gone! With a perfect base!
My hat's off to you Michael, great job!
Awesome! That's great to hear. I assume you have a newer Photon? I hope to add support for .pws files and .photons files early next year.
Yes, the Photon S (.photons file) and Mono X (.pwmx file). Thanks!!
Thank you very much for sharing this Programm to the Community. Hopefully it becomes in the Future support for the Anycubic Photon Printer. That is what i'm waiting for. Meanwhile i had to print a couple mm above the Platform...
I hope to add photon support in a few months.
@@Nerdtronic I (and many others) are happy to hear that. I wish you a happy new year ... and may the force be with you😉
great effort and really thorough - thanks a lot!
Q: what's the advantage of build plate prints vs using supports?
Check out my other video on why resin prints fail. Printing on the build plate makes the bottom surface flat. Not bumpy like it gets with supports. Can’t always do it. But sometimes it’s better if you can.
Oy Beratna - Love the Tycho Station cap!
2 points! Yeah I made these. Had a guy print the patches and put on a generic hat.
Thanks for the comprehensive video. I was wondering if you could guide me on a problem you seem to have solved. I wand to print small printing plates for my OpenPress. The workflow would be similar. Start with a base, then switch to an image that is to be printed. To support it a number of intermediate layers that are dilated to give more support. I know how to generate the single Layers, I just can't figure out how to make them into a valid print file. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks a lot, works great with the Phrozen Mighty 4K! Happy to see that I'll be able to print directly on the build plate and save a of time!
I just prefer it. My brain operates in terms of the ideal way that things should work. I'm an idealist. I often forget about the reality of the problems and issues like tolerances, weight of parts, inprecision of steppers or whatever. In a perfect world we wouldn't need any supports. But sometimes we do.
@@Nerdtronic I'd like to run something by you about BulgeBuster. Is there an email I can contact you? You can reach me at longprep@hotmail.com if you prefer.
@@pascallongpre7797 michael@nerdtronic3d.com
what settings do you use with bulge buster on your mighty 4k
@@volleyballOCS I ran multiple tests and it the most versatile settings have been using the reduction only method with a contract radius of 2 or 3 and 4 bust layers. Of course this might change a lot depending on the part you are printing.
Truly Brilliant
This is really cool! I think many of these methods are better than the compensation in Chitubox! The double exposure thing could be added with a firmware update if companies like anycubic would do it
Im from Germany, we have words for everything, but i cant find any appropiate words for what you have done. Thank you
Wow, thank you! And I have an app update coming out tomorrow that should fix the international numbers issue. USA uses periods for decimal point where some of the rest of the world uses a comma for that. This was a bug in the app that is fixed in the 0.9.3 update
@@Nerdtronic Im a X-Plat Dev and know these kind of issues very well. Numbers, Dates, ... its just anoying sometimes. You did an awesome job for the first version
Thanks.