Mastering Heat-Set Inserts in Resin 3D Prints
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Heat-Set Inserts can not only improve the look and usability of your FDM 3D prints but can also be used in your resin print - if you do it properly!
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Chapters
00:00 Introduction
02:51 Test Setup
05:19 Reference - Inserts in PLA
06:11 How threads fail
07:05 Prusa Anthracite Resin
09:01 Elegoo Translucent Resin
10:07 Geometry Optimization
11:50 Summary
12:30 Sponsored Section
14:11 Outro
#3Dprinting #threadedInserts #HeatSetInserts
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The undercut and stepped hole is the best way to make the threaded inserts work well by far for epoxy, in my experience. However, with resin prints I would recommend an alternative approach. The heat-set inserts you are using are really designed for melting the surrounding area to get a similar geometry in the bonding area as the undercut and stepped hole. It really isn't ideal at all for thermoset plastics. What I predict would work much better in a thermoset resin part are threaded inserts like those used for metal thread repairs. You can use the strongest method, printed threads, and then add EZ-LOK or EZ-Coil (these are the brand name ones) style inserts. I bet you'd get the best of both worlds -- perhaps even as strong as the PLA, or stronger, up to the limit of the differences in material strength between the plastics. There would also be an additional advantage, that this style of threaded insert would improve the precision of the threads in the end while working even with looser tolerances -- this is what they are designed for in metal applications. The geometry is optimized for more brittle failure modes, rather than extended plastic deformation, and this matches the material's failure mode.
Would love to see a test being done with those type of inserts. Really curious to see their performance. By the sounds of it, I expect it to perform really well.
I was thinking the same thing by the end of the video and would also like to see testing on this method.
The coil-type inserts (EZ-Coil, Helicoil, etc.) tend to rely a bit on the tolerances of the threads they are screwed in into so they might need tight control of the printed hole dimensions to work correctly. The insert that have solid wall (like EZ-LOK) would work better.
If trying to go this route and have the possibility to manufacture your own inserts, there might even be better thread profiles more suitable for inserting into the plastic than the standard metric / imperial thread profiles.
Daniel, great comment.
not realy, the resin part wil give in, exploding, long before the insert wil give in, so the weak link in the chian remains the resin print itself
I've always wondered why everyone uses them in the front side of the hole instead of the backside of the hole. This would leave intact plastic in front of the insert making it much stronger, I believe.
EDIT: I see I'm not the only one that has had this thought. And I see that this thought simply confuses the hell out of some people. Basic physics, an insert will pull out of a hole in plastic easier than it will pull through layers of plastic while pulling out of a hole in the backside of the plastic. Not sure how that's confusing in any way. 🤔
in my experience they melt/goo the displaced material mostly further into the hole. if inserted from the rear (inb4 inappropriate comments) it could/would push the excess in the screw path.
What frollard said is correct, but there's a way around it. I use a slight taper in the holes for the inserts and I often also use a ring cutout at the end of the hole (usually the former is enough). I never have any residue in the screw holes doing this and it is much stronger as you said and also mitigates the risk of ripping out the insert.
I figured it was to present the worst-case data instead of best-case data, but also the hole was modeled cylindrical instead of conical so there might not be that much of a difference.
@@frollard This is true, but I've found it's pretty easy to push that excess out by simply threading the screw in from the back. It takes more time, but is worth it in my opinion.
True, but these inserts are mainly intended for blind holes. For thru holes, a nut on the backside would be stronger anyway.
I recently came across screw in inserts which have a slot in them for using a screwdriver to fit them in the hole, and they are self tapping in a way. I really love their convenience and ease of assembly
These are mainly used for wood and if you are careful can also be used in 3D prints and are usually available in hardware stores.
@@CNCKitchen You could model the _insert_ threads into the part, dab some CA glue/epoxy onto the insert, screw it into the threaded hole, and have the best of both worlds: the strength of printed threads and the re-usability of an insert.
For my functional resin prints I use a mix of 70% Siraya Tech Blu and 30% Tenacious. I'd highly recommend this mix or anywhere from 50%/50% to 90%/10% depending on the part stiffness requirements.
I seriously start playing with resin mixing at some point!
It's definitely worth it, the high strength resins are strong but brittle, adding something flexible like tenacious makes parts that are much more tolerant to impacts and keeps it from shattering making for a much more useful part
While pla is common, technical parts are often made of petg or better ASA/ABS.
Maybe it would be good in the future to add at least a couple of samples in ABS/ASA as reference.
For resin prints, just print out threads for the inserts used on wood furniture. Coat the insert with superglue, and install it in the print. You’ll love the results!
Basically the best of all worlds.
Really good information, as always. Ever since I saw heatserts used (I think, actually, in one of your or Thomas' videos) I bought a small assortment pack and use them wherever it makes sense. Just a simple little thing that makes such a difference to projects.
Great video. I hope someone is inspired by this and finds the perfect solution for threaded inserts with resin. Loved seeing you dip your toe into resin printing again (I laughed out loud), and always love your unique subscribe segments.
I know this video is about heat-set inserts specifically, but where I work we often use "keenserts" to add metal threads to plastic parts. You drill & tap (or print as the case may be) a larger threaded hole, the keensert has an external thread to match, and then you thread it in and drive in a couple of locking pins that are included with the insert. Then the insert has an internal thread at the desired size. Our machinist likes them because they don't involve adhesives or heat, you just drill & tap the external thread of the insert. Would be interesting to see how those compare.
Why dont use wood screws?
If it’s strong enough to break the part, that’s as good as it can get. And yes inserts makes parts look and function awesome 👍
Next time someone asks how I placed the inserts in resin I can point them to this video! Thanks for sharing and the shout-out!
If you want higher load you need to use flexible resin. A mix of 95 to 5, which gives you minimal flexibility under load, can hold out more before ripping apart.
One of the proven optimal resins for that would be Siraya Blu (original) for 95% and Siraya Tough for 5%, instead of wasting time and money for some obviously proven inferior crap (in this very video) like that marketing-wanky-named Prusa Anthrashite...
Totally agree, pla and these resins dont compare on the material properties.
@@erikcramer do you think abs-like resin with that 95/5 mix would hold up to similar loads as the pla?
@@jonathancervantes2703 Thats totaly resin brand and mixture dependend.
not really a resin guy. but i do plan on using inserts on some of my PLA projects. not fro strength as much as reliability. thanks Stephan really helpful.
Oh boy this is exciting! My experience with threading blind and through holes on resin prints have always resulted in disaster! Great video!
Your timing is great... I'm just starting out with resin again =)
Seeing the nut for comparison would be great, and idea with printing the notches seems very interesting
I recently tried to add heat inserts into a cast resin version of a 3D printed product I made for a client.
I didnt quite expect the powdery results I got, I went to recasting the piece and then drilled and glued the inserts into the design. Thankfully the part did the job it was intended.
I do still worry that the mechanical fixing of the resin and insert are not as strong as the insert and the 3D printed parts.
Hi Stefan, thank you very for sharing these experiments. I usually manually thread holes into resin parts with Isopropanol BEFORE post UV curing these parts. It is much stronger than doing it AFTER post UV curing like you did.
sounds like tapping it while a bit soft greatly reduces micro-cracks!
Great research and results, thanks!
I've been using brass inserts in my resin prints and found what works for me is really simple. Round hole the same OD as the insert. Before curing, press the insert in the hole The uncured resin is soft enough for the knurling to bite into. Mine don't have a very big step, but you could match the profile if needed.
I have not torture tested them, but they work for light duty applications. If someone is actually hanging a 50KG load on an m3 anything, well, just don't. LOL.
Adorable Stefan. Thank you for threading my day :)
What a thoughtful, interesting video, as always. It seems there is some opportunity for someone to make something like an “E-Z Lok” style insert specially tweaked for plastic applications.
If tapped or printed threads have great strength already without bonding (which can be very surface prep dependent), print or tap oversized holes and use steel thread inserts. There are so many options to choose from, are easier to put in than heat setting, and can be just as cheap or maybe slightly more expensive. But they extra cost is worth it IMO for not having to mess with soldering irons or glues.
finally a resin oriented study!
I recently made a new carriage for my Ender 3 that is cast from polyurethane resin and has the inserts directly molded in. Making the mold was difficult, but it was fun figuring out the silicone mold design.
What a great video, tons of information. That you!
Always love your comparisons. Thank you for sharing.
I wonder if you were to model the insert more precisely so that it fits the hole like a glove if you'd get even more strength.
If it improves strength, you could have 3d models of the inserts you sell differentiating them even further from other sources. A one time investment of modeling time could pay off long term. I know it would affect which inserts I would buy if it came with models that I could use to directly create precise holes.
Great video, thank you very much. Surprised to see you got that much strength out of resin.
Great video - very thorough and professional.
Glad you liked it!
With the super glued resin inserts you should try over drilling the resin, roughing the inside of the hole, then using baking soda and super glue to glue in the insert without using an accelerator. Alternatively try a two part copper epoxy to fix the insert after roughing out the hole.
Accelerators aren't really famous of increasing strength. I would skip it
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 superglue and baking soda however do seem to make quite a tough bond.
Still it won't do any good if it can't adhere to the surface, so you still need to 'rough up' the edge of the hole. Or just make some kind of rough edges on the resin printed wall surface while printing.
Ive been using them in my resin parts. You just use a little resin around the outside of the part and uv and it works great...especially when, like me, you use translucent ABS-like resins for parts. If i design the parts my resin prints have threads, if someone else designed it for these... I use em. Works fine as long as you drill it just barely oversize, then resin, then uv pen or rig your curing light to be on.
Honestly if you want a truly "tough" resin, use anycubic abs like plus or abslike v2. Both are good and strong and i used them for my voron parts
Dang, I was going to look at threaded inserts on McMaster-Carr but seeing you're selling on Amazon, I'll go there.
Loved this video. Keep it up, you're doing great!
Thanks!
Guter Test! Wenn ich sie mal benötige, hole ich die Teile in deinem Shop. Danke für die großartige Arbeit!
Vielen Dank, freut mich zu hören.
Inserts or no Inserts in 3D prints - What's your opinion?
I have never tried them
A friend of mine used these in non-3D-Printed plastic parts and he saw some really impressive durability increases, specifically it was for RC Car Wheels and it prevented the screws from coming loose, he saw I think it was 4-5x more usage on those wheels
Inserts for machine screws. Un-tapped pilot holes for coarse thread wood/sheet metal screws. Both FDM.
Using inserts in PLA and HTPLA, especially in fixtures needing frequent cycling of the fasteners. Your videos are a huge help! Your work is inspiring and educational. Thank you for investing so much time capturing details and wonderful editing.
finde die aktuell noch eins der besten lösungen für verbindungen die unter dauerbelastung sind im sinne von rein und raus schrauben.
nutze sie für die meisten parts oder auch für cosplay sachen, wo man sachen einfach schnell wechseln soll.
Can we appreciate how pixelated and crisp that print looked in the into? The mini Stefan
i would really go for undercut stepped holes in resin, you can make the "positive" shape of the cavity as a component in your CAD program, and just paste it wherever you need a hole, then a cut-combine / subtract command would give you the perfct holes with undercut features for extra grip!
This one was - again - excellent.
Thanks for the hint with your shop! I'll buy all my threaded inserts now there. Even if they cost a little more than in china. But they're then more reliable, tested, well made and help you. That's actually very satisfying :-)
Thanks! Highly appreciated.
In the setup the resin test plates break at the given pull force, because it is brittle and the holder has not the dimensional/flatness stability in the range of pull forces. That makes it more of a break test than the pull force needed to pull the insert out of the hole.
A 5mm thick steel plate with a 10mm hole on top of the test plates in the holder would give more accurate results.
Big thumbs up for this laboratory testing effort though, and have a center of discussion. Love it! Thank you.
I use them as a glued in place nut. I make the big hole on the back side of the part and a smaller one on the front, that way when you tighten the screw it pulls the insert into the part, not out of the part.
While I don't have a resin printer I do use heat set inserts in my FDM prints all the time. I love them!
I really like the proper extruder, I'm strongly thinking about getting one
Build one! I think his design files are available.
Thanks for the great content as always! You should post the results on the page for your items for sale and/or make a page with results and video links to the testing. Having reference material to help make a choice on what inserts to purchase would be very helpful. Thanks and best wishes...
Thanks for the idea!
I use the UV resin pens with the wee UV light attached to the pen for repairs in resin as it cures really strong in the wash and cure station to the wee uv light on top of the pen! They are a brilliant must have for any 3D printing I say! Give it a try as it actually cures into the teeth amd grooves unlike super glue you need an activator that fast cures it but also turn it brittle
inserts work very well in resin prints in situations where screws have to be screwed in and out many times. The insert is then saved by the thread in the resin or the hole in which the screw is placed.
It is best to place the inserts immediately after printing the object, before washing it in alcohol. They may not provide the force of your test, but they will protect the printed hole from the screw that will be screwed in.
I've had good luck using slightly undersized holes with a heated press fit using elegoo water washable resin. It seems to soften when heated, but not melt.
I've been using inserts in resin glued with epoxy glue into backwards papered holes so even if the epoxy doesn't bond properly it can't just pull out.
Tough my applications aren't high force normally. But they do want to be able to be disassembled and assembled regularly.
I've used a few different styles of E-Z Press branded press-in threaded inserts. They're specifically manufactured for use in thermoset plastics. They work well enough for my application. I wonder how they would perform in the pull tests. A quick tip though, I used 2 different versions of the E-Z Press inserts. The ones with the slot through the opening where you insert the bolt were too deformed to thread in a bolt easily. The version with the slot on the side of the insert that gets pressed into the material first we're way easier to thread into. That may effect the pull out strength though.
Try eyelet inserts for tear out strength vs normal holes printed in parts. It's an idea I've had and implemented but don't have any data to backup if it's any stronger. The idea is the eyelet fused around the entire hole opposed to having pressure applied to just the weaker points of the holes connection.
Never thought to use heat inserts in resin prints. Been using them alot lately with my FDM parts.
As always your videos bare incredible information value.
Just ordered a bunch of your inserts for work, especially the short ones will be very handy. Does it make a difference for you if ordered through amazon or directly on your site?
It was nice to see your face at the end! Thank you and have a great day! Danka! Auf Wiedersehen!
Great video! Now I'm curious how strong the threaded inserts are in other fdm materials like abs, nylon, etc.
This application really depends on the amount of times the part is expected to be accessed and taken apart. Has a hard-core scale RC geek, I will print undersized holes into the part if it is part of something that likely will not be touched again for a long while. But, for things like receiver boxes, where access is likely, a threaded brass insert is perfect.
I use a hex recessed hole for the nut and bolt through load bearing parts, just like standard model parts for 90s helis and model cars. No insert needed and rely on compression strength.
For resin prints you should use left turned incerts perhaps with a locking notch.
There would of like to see some tests with 2-part epoxies that would have filled the voids. As I just get into SLA printing I look forward to doing some more experimentation.
I tested printing threaded holes in PLA and PETG. I was surprised to find out my Prusa MK3s was able to print M3 size that still worked well (but was a bit tight). Larger sized like M4 were very smooth. That is something one can try out and see how it workes. Often I need screws just to keep a lid closed or similar situations where printed threads can work just fine.
Sure, if it is something you open and close multiple times (like a battery compartment), inserts are better and will not wear like plastic probably will in time.
I've got no resin printer and no experience how well printed threads work or not in those type of prints.
So far I have only worked with FFF, not resin but I would think this method would work similarly.
I like to design a hole just wide enough for the bolt to fit easily and run it all the way through the part. Then I put the wider area for the heatset insert on the opposite side of the part from where the bolt is going in.
This way any pulling on the bolt has to pull the insert further in and all the way through the part instead of just out the side it was inserted. I'd love to see you run that test!
You have to be more careful this way about not filling the hole with molten plastic. Often for that I will actually run an extra-long bolt through the part and screw it part way onto the back of the insert before I set it so that plastic cannot get into the hole. Sometimes a little plastic even squeezes into the gap between the bolt and the hole, forming into threads giving the bolt even more to lock into.
I guess with Resin printing it would be glue or resin runnig into the bolt hole, not molten plastic but same situation.
...last week I had a costomer who wanted a SLA Print whith a m5 Tab. To this time I didn't know that heatinserts didnt behave like in FDM print...and now I see this Tutorial...damn
Great video. Little sad that after mentioning the different options, didn't have directly screwed or printed threads for PLA for a more complete comparison. You may have done it in a different heat-set insert video, but then it's not all in one place (and my mind just went "wonder if Arachne has made the threads more accurate and thus better for screws"). I'm not a huge fan of needing extra hardware in general when 3D printing parts, but it's probably just because it wasn't until recently that I even had sets of screws/nuts. But it means the few times I've needed screws I just model them into the part (and some finger grips to make it easier to get on), but as I now have some screws, it's crossed my mind occasionally that maybe I can use them. I'll have to check if the other videos contain the comparison and if tapped/heat set from those videos line up in results.
Hi Stefan, very informative and as always methodological episode - well done. Can you add helicoil inserts and test/ measure them amongst other methods. We have been using them for years together with PolyJet printer and they work well but it would be great to see how are they compare to other solutions. Alles Gute!
I have used inserts but I added an undercut on the insert and made it alingn with an undercut on the resin printed part and then I put the epoxy on both the hole and undercut and the insert and its undercut... these hold magnificently, they are as strong as the part itself. In reality this should be a kit available for resin prints...
I don't have a resin printer (yet?) but I ordered a few parts from the Prusa website and decided to pick up some of your inserts as long as I was placing an order. I'm looking forward to trying them out with my MK3S+ I have a lot of microcontroller dev boards that are just bare pcb's, so I'm thinking of trying to make some enclosures for them.
I would have been interested in seeing how they performed glueing them into the screwed in holes with printed threads, combining the 2 best performing methods if you will :-)
I usually use sheet metal or wood screws and they seem to work best and are easy to do you make the holes the same size you would drill into wood or sheet metal (self tapping screws)
This has been an amazing video. I've been searching for this exact topic for the past few months but there's almost no information on it because of skewed results for fdm use of threaded inserts. I found a small computer case that I want to print in resin so that I can recreate the old school atomic purple color of the Gameboy for it but didn't know if threaded inserts could be used for it
I'm not sure about the resin you are printing in, but it seems very brittle. With many years of experience using a Formlabs printer, I can say their fiber reinforced resin (Rigid 10k) holds inserts very well. We would print them with a 0.003" to 0.007" interference fit, with the insert being pressed in from the opposite side from the screw. This would allow for a small lip, or big lip depending on geometry, for the insert to press against. The inserts we used had no taper to them and a very precise flat bottom. We would then put a little CA glue on both the insert and inside the hole and press in insert into place. Never had any pull out, pull through, nor break. Our application was over-molding PCBs with thermally conductive encapsulant for use in tools for oil well drilling.
When you cure resin, only part that is outside will be cured properly. It is not because of its color but simply because UV doesn't have enough penetration. Even transparent resin is not transparent for UV. The reason you are able to create resin prints is the fact that UV light doesn't penetrate it very deep (not deeper than 0.2-0.5mm), otherwise you'd just cure one single block of material continuing from buildplate to the top of the print if it was the case.
Similar with CA activator, you supposed to cover one part with activator and another with glue. Otherwise activator only works for outer layer.
This makes me wonder if thick-walled resin-prints are even cured througout or if they only have a hard shell and are liquid or gooey inside…
@@rynnjacobs8601when you print with resin, UV lamp under screen cures resin just fine, there's no issue here
@@shadyb But Stefan had the problem, that the resin he used to glue the insert in, does not cure completely? 8:06 and 9:45
@@rynnjacobs8601 he did what I said he shouldn't have been doing in comment. It is not resin that was inside print, it is resin he put there to mount insert.
During printing UV light cures layers thoroughly because layer height is only about 0.05mm which is less than what UV able to penetrate through.
Very interesting. One thing to note, when it comes to small bolts and machine screws people often exceed the rated torque values by as much as 300% because "it just feels right". Which is why they often strip threads in softer materials.
Seems to me that threaded inserts like the ones used for MDF furniture, where the outside is threaded as well, would be the ultimate. Just model the threads and maybe a touch of CA to stop them from coming out. They normally have a recessed allen key head for convenient insertion.
They are still limited by the strength of the resin printed threads. The only thing I can see them or helicoils helping with is how long they last screwing and unscrewing the bolts.
@@conorstewart2214 The threads are bigger than the target bolt and seem to cut deeper into the material, so it could have more strength for the same sized bolt.
Component parts review request.
Thoughts on using 'compression limiters' along with the threaded inserts on plastic parts. This would be to avoid plastic part damage in higher component part stress applications.
--- Compression Limiters --- threadless sleeves installed into mating parts where threaded inserts are used for attachments. They stop the mating plastic part from being damaged from excess screw torque/pressures and stop pullout of threaded insert through aggressive assembly torqueing of screws.
PLEASE READ IT, STEFAN! I may have an explanation for why the resin prints underperformed so much and why they exploded so easily.
The devil's in the detail. In the jig to be specific. You use PLA holder with PLA plates. But you also use PLA holder for resin plates. With PLA+PLA combo, you see significant deflection in the holder. It's not critical since the PLA plate also has as much elasticity. For the resin plates, however, because of the holder deflection, most of the force on plates is on the edges, resulting in bending forces rather than thread shearing. For real-life strength approximation, you could be testing plates and holders from the same material (as you mostly print all the mating parts from the same printer), but for more universal results and thread testing strictly, the holder should be from something more rigid (like aluminum - you can cheaply order such a part online).
Great insights, as always, Stefan! Your videos are the best out there on 3d printing. One or two of them combined usually have a similar scope of testing to the engineering thesis I review.
Good point. Might update my test setup!
@CNCKitchen I wonder if an optimised strength could be achieved by oversizing the hole in resin and then glueing in an FDM hollow cylinder with epoxy, (or maybe cut some abs/nylon pipe to length) so you could still heatset a threaded insert?
Would it be possible to print the negative of a threaded insert and use those in resin instead? The kind designed for wood tend to have wide ‘blades’ that allow them to spread any force on the threads through quite a bit of wood. I’m wondering if printing the negative of that in resin so that you could screw in a wood insert would be much stronger than more typical plastic heat set inserts.
I’m also curious if ultrasonic installation of heat set inserts (generally how they’re installed industrially as far as I can tell) would allow the part to be stronger.
I think the repeatability and expectation of what 1sd is would mean that if you double the SD, Printing in the threads for resin and FDM seems to be the best bet, and then perhaps printing to the OD of a helicoil if you MUST have repeatable metal to metal contact.
For this effort, do you describe the results anywhere so we can get numbers?
How long did you cure the resin glued inserts? I wonder if using a very long time would help ( a few days in low intensity light?). Also, would dropping the resin in the hole and then pushing in the insert vs brush the resin on the insert result in better adhesion?
so depending in the resin the properties change drastically. Not to mention tough means different things for different manufacturers. That being said you can heat set without glue. At least I've managed to do that in the resin i use which is a 25% Sirayatech Blu in clear, 25% tenacious clear yellow and 50% Anycubic Standard+ in clear. But you need to preheat the entire part. Like I put it in an insulated heated chamber for like an hour at around 90C. I haven't tested the strength but since i'm not really creating load bearing parts i'm not worried and it hasn't failed so I'm happy and it works at least for me
I don’t know why but I really like the way you say hoop.
5:10 Keep in mind some tests have shown accelerated superglue to not be as strong as without.
10:00 Since the resin has to at least partially absorb the UV for it to be cured, this might be dependent on the shape of the part. E.g.: on a corner, or as part of a wall, parallel to it, it might fare better. And maybe increased curing time.
Love your video....but. I cant help feel as the blue jig bends in the middle, its putting a lot of side loading on the test pieces & as resin is more brittle they may tend to crack before the threaded test pieces are ready to fail. Just a thought!
With epoxy, having a surface for the epoxy to "grab onto" for both sections being glued is key. Really rough surfaces or hard undercuts is a great thing for strength. I would be using an epoxy more like JB Weld or better yet PC-7 two-part reinforced epoxies, as they have proven themselves to me to be a winner for such type applications as holding dissimilar materials solidly in place with great strength. I do not like the "paste" type versions, but the two-part in different containers. Threaded inserts will always have their place, but a person can never expect the force required to break the insert loose be more than the parent strength of the material they are inset into. The situation is great if you even achieve that level of adhesion. Off topic, I wonder why no-one has designed a new type of FDM printer that uses chemical set two-part epoxy. Some of the thicker consistency epoxies, such as PC-7, should lay down a nice strand through an extrusion process and would make extremely tough plastic parts where layer separation would be a thing of the past. JB weld would probably be too thin, but some of the reinforced epoxies would definitely be thick enough. Instead of using a hot-end, you would use a replaceable mixing tip like used on some epoxy caulking guns. Could be tube fed using the same principle as a caulking gun by hydraulic pressure using a refillable set of tubes, and a "gun" pressed by two stepper motors driving feed screws, one for each tube. A thought I have been kicking around.
I would like to see you do this with the Siraya Tech Blu resins, since they are meant to be used in engineering applications.
Threaded rivet nut inserts are by far and away the better solution, and are way stronger than heat-set inserts even in FDM prints. It's worthwhile designing out blind holes to use them.
Very informative! I’d be curious how different types of resins would compare. For example, Siraya Tech a build, they claim is tapable. I know from experience it’s much more durable than their abs like.
Stefan - thank you for this interesting data. However, there’s a flaw in you testing setup in that your jig is not rigid enough… One can see it bend as the force on the insert increases. This would cause bending of your test piece as well, which in case of brittle resin prints explains the catastrophic failures. So the test results are not only influenced by the pullout strength of the inserts, but also on the rigidity and flexibility of the test piece. You could fix that by inserting a thick steel washer (or a few of them) between your test piece and your test jig!
Would have loved to see a torque test.
I second that
@@TJ13062010 for a vast majority of use cases - that is the force being applied Vice a linear pull.
@@philr6829 I know, that is why I would have loved to see that test as well 🙂
A good vid as always but I'd be interested in seeing if your stepped hole was stronger when pulling from the other side? It seems like you were pulling from the weakest point. Obviously you calt always put the insert in the other side of the hole but if you can I could see it being either stronger because you're bracing against more resin or quicker to shatter because all the force is going onto the resin.
Hi, How about making heat insert tool for the very popular ts100/Pinecil soldering iron?
You should try 2 Part MMA adhesive. From my experience the adhesion is unmatched, and remains more flexible compared to CA glue or Epoxy
Great video, my thoughts 💭 is why not using heat set inserts with resin especially for 3d printers parts this will be more convenient of abs or pla parts because the Abs / pla parts not holding the heat inserts well when the parts exposed to heat , I think with resin inserted much more resistant to this application , in my experience with voron parts I need to re print the parts which hold the set inserts time to time because is become loss .
And the other solution for using resin parts to put a square nuts if the design of the parts allows this . ☝️
I'd love it if you could use your pull-strength test machine on 3D printed cable ties, because I created one which at 10mm wide could carry the 8kg of my Prusa i3 Mk3, and printed at 150% scale it was easily carrying 12kg.
Hoopin TPU Cable Tie
is what it's called to find it out there.
I have been using the stock thread minor hole diameters in SolidWorks, starting with the correct tap size drill in a drill chuck without the drill by hand. This normally removes only a bit of material as the holes print just a bit undersize. Then I use the drill chuck holding the correct tap and turn by hand or use my tapping jig tool. DO NOT use a drill motor: it creates too much heat and either melts the plastic or the tap trashes out way too much material. On my Ender 3 V2, I printed a 50mm dia x 40 mm long cylinder with a 5mm wall thickness split in half with a female recess and a flange both with 1/2 wall thickness 2.5 mm tall and thick, in PLA each half printed with the cylinder end down. The dims printed less than 0.5mm with the two halves fitting into each other perfectly with NO allowance made in any way as a test in SolidWorks. FYI. Will be starting to use the brass inserts as you demonstrate; great work on the videos, super informative.
How about testing the strength of PLA parts after electro plating the part with copper or nickel? That would be a good video to watch
1 Put the inserts upside down so the widest point is at the bottom (this would work for glue and resin) which would make it easier to flow material around the fitting, allow light to transmit deeper around the fitting and when cured would provide a more mechanically retentive layout.
2 Use translucent resin and a stronger UV light source (dental unit would work sweet)
3 Use a duel cure light-cured resin. Common in dental industry
What if you used some sort of heat set glue or resin to bond the insert to the part?
Since resin tends to shrink when curing placing the inserts before curing might make a okay interference fit.
Maybe even put relief slots around the insert location to reduce the force the inserts put on the part as a whole.
Hello, this won't work. The hole gets larger after being cured since the resin shrinks, which lessens the material at the hole, hence decrease in diameter.
For epoxy, try one made to bond well to low surface energy plastics. Thixo is a good example.
Could you freeze the inserts to get a tight fit?
Try to use a mix of sodium bicarbonate with superglue, you gotta move pretty fast or it will cure before you are ready, so go small batches as for one insert only at the time, also make some circular channels around the insert in the resin to create more groves of glue plus bicarbonate to hold into.
I notice the tapped threads have much less consistency. Did you use a tapping guide? I wonder if that would help tighten up the consistency.