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Maybe the SD port is damaged? Or the card is not formatted to FAT32.

You don't need the can interface line, just the UUID. I'm fairly certain that can0 is default. Otherwise I would suggest you check that the termination (120r) jumpers are in place on the M8P and ebb.

@@StackingLayers Thanks for replying. I've verified that the jumpers are installed. I suppose the next step is to reach out to bigtreetech and maybe the klipper forums.

@@StackingLayers Well this is embarrassing. Somehow I dropped a digit from the middle of the affected UUID. I now have communication with 'mcu'.

Haha don't feel bad. I somehow added 2 random digits to one I was setting up last night.

As long as it's configured correctly, with matching bitrates, and wired correctly it should work.

@@StackingLayers a quick question, i just bought a voron already set up and running, yesterday i updated my mcu manta m8p to newer klipper v0.12, ive had a problem to flash the firmware to the fly sht 36 pro, but the can is already installed and setup, at the mainsail, it only stated that my mcu sht is not up to date, so can i just follow all your step here just to flash the firmware of the sht 36, or will it do any problem later if the can already setup bro, and im redoing it again following your setup here in this video?

@@muhammadakmalfadilah3273 yeah you can just update the the sht. It's recommend to update all boards though. And remember that you have to set the canbus bitrate to match whatever the rest of the system is. Originally in the video I has set 500000 but it's more normal now to have it set to 1000000.

You'll need to search your config for filter I would assume it's something that is out of place. I don't know of any functions that are called filter so it's likely something custom.

It's overall the same

You don't have to define the CB1. One thing you might have to do is set up the can0 file. Send this command, sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 If its empty then you should add this, allow-hotplug can0 iface can0 can static bitrate 1000000 up ifconfig $IFACE txqueuelen 1024 And make sure to set the bitrate in the firmware parts to 1000000 also. The higher bit rate is better if you end up using an accelerometer.

Absolutely. It's recommend to do it that way for the best results.

That's wonderful to see this was helpful! You're welcome.

That normally means that a file it's looking for is missing.

You need to create a file called printer.cfg and put the configuration for your machine in it. Here's a bunch of pre configured examples if your machine is there, then copy and paste contents to the new printer.cfg file. github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/tree/master/config

It's opened in mainsail, the web interface that a vast majority of klipper installations comes with. I didn't show how to get there because if one is trying to understand what's in the printer.cfg file, mainsail or fluidd has likely already been installed. I suppose you could make a printer.cfg in notepad++ or some other editor prior to setting up klipper and the rest needed to use klipper. To get to this, klipper, moonraker, and mainsail or fluidd has to be installed on the host computer (raspberry pi or similar alternative.) then you put the IP address of the host in your browser of choice. Once opened, select machine to show the machine configs and info. The file, if created, will be there. If there isn't a default printer.cfg you will need to add one using the new file option or by importing one.

The probe tip screws in. Maybe it came loose. See if you can tighten it back up

@@StackingLayers ok thanks for the tip!

Ok so that worked! I used some pliers to tighten it all the way but I am still a little worried that it could come loose at higher speeds 🤔 I'm thinking it was never tightened though because it is sitting up higher than it ever has. But we'll see I need to recalibrate the probe offset and run a test

I've see that happen to a couple users, but I think it's a case of just not being tight enough from the start.

Thanks for the super!

@@StackingLayers Thank you for real....I've been stumped with trying to get klipper going on an old A8+ and taking the time to thoroughly watch you video get it going.

You're welcome. I'm glad to see it's still helping people.

When setting up canbus there will be no dev/serial ID. You will be querying the UUID instead.

@@StackingLayers for both of the boards I am using the UUID in klipper configs instead of MCU from the dev/serial? I thought for the m8p you still had one?

When setting up usb as canbus bridge, you will get a UUID

@@StackingLayers when I use canbus_uuid for both the CB1 MCU and EBB42 MCU then it gives me an error “serial in section MCU must be specified”

@@StackingLayers When I used canbus_uuid for the cb1 mcu it throws an error saying I need serial

Right after I posted this I repeated the same thing for the 100th time and it started working... I want to leave this up for others if you see this error to check the can0 config in top of desc. After I copy pasted that into there and rebooted I was able to flash to 0483:df11. Thanks for the video and notes in desc! Idk what I'd do without it

Yeah I was just going to say to check that can0 was set up in the /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 file. Good to see you got that going.

Great to see it helped you get up and running! The B1 works great with klipper! I'm slowly working on modifying mine as a direct drive IDEX set up.

They come with it. Never solder those pins. The USB power is for programming only. You have to use a regular 12V or 24v power supply, depending on your machine, to actually print.

Glad to see it was helpful.

Unfortunately with the way my free time is right nowI won't be able to do a straight build. I'll have to do it in small sessions. But I'll de posting on Twitter as I make progress. I might do a progress video like when I get the frame and gantry set up. And likey another with the electronics. Hopefully I can do it sooner than later. It's rough having a kit calling me and not enough time to answer. I did get the stealthburner mostly built today though. That's a good start.

Yeah I was thinking the cable channels looked a little small. I might get some larger ones. They really shouldn't be fill more than 75% of the way.

It's worst on the nevermore, but noticable on some other parts in the right light. I'm not too bothered by it right now. I'll probably be printing some different stuff anyway once I get the machine going.

That's one advantage of me having to wait to save up, I got to see some cool improvements made and then the kit was how I wanted it when I could finally get it. I'm glad I resisted just throwing on the credit card.

I don't do much with octoprint anymore, but perhaps this plugin will work. plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/smartfilamentsensor/

@@StackingLayers okay thanks! Ill give it a try

That's wonderful to see it was helpful!

This isn't the slicer profile, it's the printer configuration file to let klipper firmware know how to interface with the hardware.

The BTT pi needs the cb1 image. The raspberry pi images are not compatible, it's a different chip set. This is the official bigtreetech image github.com/bigtreetech/CB1/releases/tag/V2.3.4

Sweet! Glad it was helpful.

@@StackingLayers Took me a while as I was dipping in and out when I had time but I've got a screen working now thanks to this guide. I used a couple of spare display cables and cut one end off each, that way the connectors to the screen are solid, then once I'd worked out what wires were needed I crimped a Dupont connector onto each wire, following your guide I could then pin up some 4 and 5 pin housings to fit to the board. Thanks again, I shall keep sharing this video :)

Nice! That's how I had another setup connected.

I think you made the right choice for the video as it was easier to follow with individual wires. Do you mind if I share this set up and your code with people in the 3DP Rescue! groups ? With links back to this video of course.

@davethebuskeruk I don't mind. Share the links to the world! My goal is to make this stuff easier to understand so more can enjoy the hobby.

Because I did it on a bed slinger machine so I have to move the sensor to the bed to do Y. On a coreXY you would use just SHAPER_CALIBRATE since X and Y are both on the print head motion.

Unfortunately the manta m4p doesn't have a canbus transceiver built-in, but you could attach a U2C module and that will work. You would skip the can bridge firmware for the m4p and just set it up as normal usb connection. The ebb will be the same as in the video.

@@StackingLayers I bought a custom built ender 6 that was somehow running can bus on a manta 4 board the I think a power surge took out my programming and I can't find how to re enable it. Should I upgrade to the 8 or the manta 5 board

If you had canbus running then there must be a canbus hat on the gpio pins or a U2C module the manta m4p cannot run canbus alone. It doesn't contain the physical components for it to work.

@@StackingLayers I have look so many times and looks like a plain normal m4p

In the video I briefly mentioned that the pins could be different but now thinking about it and looking at the schematic of the V2, it is the same. That would make sense too since you don't normally have to change a configuration and they're plugged in to the same standard boards with the same cables. You should be good to follow along.

Thank you for checking, all the videos and quick reply, I will take a look also just to make sure then follow along.

@@StackingLayersup and running, I do have to do something about the pwm beeper like you said but I can handle that after it’s all installed and running. Thank you again for all the videos, your BTT Manta CAN vid saved me when building my Micron 180 so thank you for all you do.

I'm happy it was helpful!

The settings for the board you are making it for.

You have to make those yourself. Here's the repo of examples. github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/tree/master/config Look for your machine and/or board you are using, then adjust as needed.

You'll need to find the settings for the board you have and then make and install the firmware. It's more or less the same process for all machines. If you have the atmega1284p chip on your board then this is likely the settings and config but do the research to be sure don't just start flashing without confirming the installed equipment. github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config%2Fprinter-creality-cr10-2017.cfg

With the BTT pi you can't use a raspberry pi camera, but you can use a usb webcam. All of the different accelerometers will work. The BTT or any of the other usb style accelerometers are the easiest to set up. The cr-10 screen will work with the skr mini you don't hook that to the btt pi, but for a better UI I recommend an HDMI touch screen. That will plug to the BTT pi an you would install the KlipperScreen service.

Glad it was helpful. There's definitely more to come. Stay tuned 😀

No it's using SSH, its a remote connection to the terminal. You could do it using command line, programs like puTTY, or even mobile apps like juiceSSH.

@@StackingLayers thank you!

Nice! It's always wonderful to see my videos helping others.

It won't show if the [bed_mesh] part of the printer.cfg is not correctly set up.

It's possible that printer.cfg doesn't contain a [bed mesh] and you need to find one and copy/paste it into printer.cfg.

Good point. When I made this video the V2 probe didn't exist. The original probe was a click switch style and works fantastic at higher speed. There was unfortunately other issues that made them change to the optical sensor and hance V2. I might make another video as a supplement for this one as there's some good points to touch on with the new version that this video doesn't really cover.

Double check that your can0 is set up correctly. Get Into the can0 file with this command sudo nano /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 It should look like this, allow-hotplug can0 iface can0 can static bitrate 1000000 up ifconfig $IFACE txqueuelen 1024 Make sure that is set that way and hit Ctrl+X then Y then enter. To save and exit if you changed anything. The bitrate needs to be the same on all devices and 1000000 is now the recommended value.

@@StackingLayers I get exactly what you show here, without making any changes. But the error still persists.

I'm assuming the MMB is powered up too right? Not only the can line. I'm sure it is but I have to ask. Also the bitrate when you made the firmware, was it 1000000 too on both boards?

@@StackingLayers The CAN line that the MMB comes with has both power and data in a single cable, with a special plug on one side for the MMB which cannot possibly be plugged in backwards, and the other side was 2 loose wires for the power connection and a 2-wire connector to plug into the CAN spot on the M8P board. I couldn't reach both the PSU itself and the M8P with the one cable, so I connected it into the same slot on the M8P's power-in connection (both the wires from the PSU and the wires to the CAN cable I installed a fork spade connector, and the two forks for red and the two forks for black are stacked in the one connection slot each). The lights on the MMB are on. But the M8P isn't even giving its own UUID after the reset, which it did before the reset.

@richard3365 I'm aware of the cable I have some too I would just asking about power because I have seen some people think that just the two can lines are required as long as you're not using the hot end. Basically thought that the power was only for Motors and heaters and such, not for can bus. So I just double checked. sounds like you have plugged correctly. My chance did you already enter the UUID into your printer.cfg for the Manta? If you did and klipper recognizes it, it will not show any more when you query.