Thank you, thank you, thank you! Been struggling with this issue for weeks now. Your video is so thorough and well though out. Explains all the needed points and helps us to understand Klipper better. Thank you!
Huge thank you, I have spent 2 days to figure it out how to make it work with Marlin and you said Marlin can use only one pin and that is the KEY! I guess connecting those two pins makes some collision. Thank you again!
If you go for Teflon, the filament without Teflon caves in the retractions and the sensor is not able to detect that movement. Many people in forums say that they get errors and it is because they do not have a Teflon or similar so that the filament remains "rigid" inside and millimeter movements are detected
01:30 incorect info concerning the switch. when you put the filament in it pushes out the bearing, that bearing pushes the lever away from the switch. the spring pushes on the same lever from the opposite direction to press the switch when there is no filament.
I've been looking into making something like this myself, my worry is that the sensor and grate aren't quadrature and thus don't give rotational direction so that extrude/retract actions can read as motion when they are not, or not register as motion when it is depending on retraction. My ideal would be one that signals forward and backward motion in detail which klipper receives and compares to the expected filament motion so you can detect a jam _and_ detect extruder skips. I'm working on one integrated into a Voron Stealthburner toolhead.
Going quadrature would make it a legitimate smart sensor. It's would also likely make it more expensive. But if the coding worked enough to catch skips or slips and log retraction and all that it could definitely open up a lot of on the fly adjustments to keep quality in check. I would like to see something like that com into play.
Hi, thanks for your´s great videos and to make it a litle simple. i'm switching from Marlin to klipper and mi question is (i have sfsv2 connect on skr e3 v3 whit 3 wires, like you explain in this video, and it's work verry wel) can i use this config in klipper using only the motion sensor? thanks again.
It's ok we all have to start somewhere. That's what inspired me to make these videos. I was once a noob too and remember how frustrating it was to find a good explanation of what was going on and how to get things sorted out.
Hello, thank you for your video. I installed the SFS version 2 on my BIQU B1. I have the green and black wires plugged in because I'm plugging it into the smart sensor slot on the back of my machine. It came with a filament sensor but it doesn't seem to work because it doesn't send a signal when there's no filament going through there. So my question is should I just unplug it and take it off the machine and leave the SFS on there? I watched the video and I understand that this is only for the motion as I only have the black and green plugged in but that it will send a signal if there's no filament going through it so that should be fine. Your help is very appreciated!
I apologize but I have one more question. I am a new user and don't know how to get to where you are doing the setup of the SFS on the computer. How do I get to where I can do the config file so I can set it up like you did in the video. Thanks again
And I can't create the SFS2.cfg file because the computer says error; e p e r m; operation not permitted. So I don't know what to do to be able to follow your instructions at that point
You need the red wire plugged in correctly for power too. The encoder needs ground, 5v, and signal. As for the eprm error that means you don't have the correct permission to edit files in the program you are using. You should delete files directly via ssh or in the browser ui (mainsail or fluidd)
Overcomplicated design. It does not need additional runout switch. There are a lot of variants on thingeverse, which use simple optical sensor and just one bearing. And that's it. It just constantly turn on and off runout sensor flag. And for example Marlin firmware checks that runout flag is switching(you need to reflash firmware for that). If it stops, firmware will start to measure filament length, and if runout does not triggered until critical length value reached, then change filament function is executed and printing is paused. This works perfectly when filament ends or stuck or breaks in the middle of the print. The only thing you should take in consideration, filament sensor should not be fixed to printer in any way, it should only attach to the filament wire and that's it. So on retract movement there will be no movement, only on moving forward.
Is there any chance you could outline how to do this with a Makerbase SKIPR derivative board? It seems that all the OEM machines use them. well, all the ones I have do. I don't even know where to begin.
hey, firstly nice job for your video ! i'm try to add it ton my sv06 mainboard with btt pi v1.2 klipper pad, can you help me ? don't understand wich wire have to be on wich pin ... x')
It doesn't look like that board can have 2 runout sensors. There's only one one runout port. If you use a probe to home I then you can use the z-stop, but you are definitely going to need to do some repining for the plugs to work correctly.
@@StackingLayers Interesting to see something about the SV06 and the BTT Pi V1.2, there doesn't seem to be much information on so out there. Not exactly sure if there's a specific naming for the pinout required because the pins I'm trying to use are already used by other things my SV06 motherboard has assigned (PC0, PC2, etc)
@@chucktastic2287 make sure the pins are being connected correctly. Creality uses odd wire colors sometimes that are completely backwards from the normal usage. Like black on +5v and red on ground. This is a good diagram to show what the pin functions are. support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/crtouch-sensor-pinout-sensor-side/
once again you have come to the rescue! I was using Marlin for years, but now that im getting my feet wet with Klippper, i can see the appeal!
Glad to help!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Been struggling with this issue for weeks now. Your video is so thorough and well though out. Explains all the needed points and helps us to understand Klipper better. Thank you!
Huge thank you, I have spent 2 days to figure it out how to make it work with Marlin and you said Marlin can use only one pin and that is the KEY! I guess connecting those two pins makes some collision. Thank you again!
great video, i have mine hooked up and noticed i had a error and you nailed it for me, and now i can fix it. thanks
That's wonderful to see. Glad it was helpful.
dude you got a video for everything youre the goat
Hahaha! Thanks! More to come too.
If you go for Teflon, the filament without Teflon caves in the retractions and the sensor is not able to detect that movement. Many people in forums say that they get errors and it is because they do not have a Teflon or similar so that the filament remains "rigid" inside and millimeter movements are detected
You can probably extend the non-motion timer to deal with that but yeah it's best to have a Bowden tube in place to to keep it more precise.
01:30 incorect info concerning the switch. when you put the filament in it pushes out the bearing, that bearing pushes the lever away from the switch. the spring pushes on the same lever from the opposite direction to press the switch when there is no filament.
No, that is the correct information, you wrote exactly as I described.
I've been looking into making something like this myself, my worry is that the sensor and grate aren't quadrature and thus don't give rotational direction so that extrude/retract actions can read as motion when they are not, or not register as motion when it is depending on retraction. My ideal would be one that signals forward and backward motion in detail which klipper receives and compares to the expected filament motion so you can detect a jam _and_ detect extruder skips. I'm working on one integrated into a Voron Stealthburner toolhead.
Going quadrature would make it a legitimate smart sensor. It's would also likely make it more expensive. But if the coding worked enough to catch skips or slips and log retraction and all that it could definitely open up a lot of on the fly adjustments to keep quality in check. I would like to see something like that com into play.
Hi, thanks for your´s great videos and to make it a litle simple. i'm switching from Marlin to klipper and mi question is (i have sfsv2 connect on skr e3 v3 whit 3 wires, like you explain in this video, and it's work verry wel) can i use this config in klipper using only the motion sensor? thanks again.
Yes you can. You just need to use this function www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html?h=filament#filament_motion_sensor
@@StackingLayers Kool, thanks again (i´m a litle noob in this...)
It's ok we all have to start somewhere. That's what inspired me to make these videos. I was once a noob too and remember how frustrating it was to find a good explanation of what was going on and how to get things sorted out.
Hello, thank you for your video. I installed the SFS version 2 on my BIQU B1. I have the green and black wires plugged in because I'm plugging it into the smart sensor slot on the back of my machine. It came with a filament sensor but it doesn't seem to work because it doesn't send a signal when there's no filament going through there. So my question is should I just unplug it and take it off the machine and leave the SFS on there? I watched the video and I understand that this is only for the motion as I only have the black and green plugged in but that it will send a signal if there's no filament going through it so that should be fine. Your help is very appreciated!
I apologize but I have one more question. I am a new user and don't know how to get to where you are doing the setup of the SFS on the computer. How do I get to where I can do the config file so I can set it up like you did in the video. Thanks again
And I can't create the SFS2.cfg file because the computer says error; e p e r m; operation not permitted. So I don't know what to do to be able to follow your instructions at that point
I downloaded visual code so I have the program
You need the red wire plugged in correctly for power too. The encoder needs ground, 5v, and signal.
As for the eprm error that means you don't have the correct permission to edit files in the program you are using. You should delete files directly via ssh or in the browser ui (mainsail or fluidd)
Overcomplicated design. It does not need additional runout switch. There are a lot of variants on thingeverse, which use simple optical sensor and just one bearing. And that's it. It just constantly turn on and off runout sensor flag. And for example Marlin firmware checks that runout flag is switching(you need to reflash firmware for that). If it stops, firmware will start to measure filament length, and if runout does not triggered until critical length value reached, then change filament function is executed and printing is paused. This works perfectly when filament ends or stuck or breaks in the middle of the print. The only thing you should take in consideration, filament sensor should not be fixed to printer in any way, it should only attach to the filament wire and that's it. So on retract movement there will be no movement, only on moving forward.
Is there any chance you could outline how to do this with a Makerbase SKIPR derivative board? It seems that all the OEM machines use them. well, all the ones I have do. I don't even know where to begin.
It should be relatively the same setup. You just need to fine 2 available endstop/runout pins and tell klipper which one is connected to which sensor.
Great video. I have manta m8p and ther I have 4pin FWS socket with +5V, GND, PF10 and PC0pin. Are PF pins compatible or do I must have 2 PC pins?
They are compatible
smart means its a optical sensor and reciever ie infrared transmitter and reciever
and it monitors movement of the filament and not only see when the filament runs out.
There's no optical sensor in the smart filament runout sensor. It's a rotary encoder and a micro switch.
hey, firstly nice job for your video ! i'm try to add it ton my sv06 mainboard with btt pi v1.2 klipper pad, can you help me ? don't understand wich wire have to be on wich pin ... x')
It doesn't look like that board can have 2 runout sensors. There's only one one runout port. If you use a probe to home I then you can use the z-stop, but you are definitely going to need to do some repining for the plugs to work correctly.
@@StackingLayers Interesting to see something about the SV06 and the BTT Pi V1.2, there doesn't seem to be much information on so out there. Not exactly sure if there's a specific naming for the pinout required because the pins I'm trying to use are already used by other things my SV06 motherboard has assigned (PC0, PC2, etc)
Did the same sfs2 cfg and got message filament motion sensor is in vaild ... Any clue?
I would have to see the configuration and error message. But it sounds like this a configuration error. Missing a symbol or something like that
this is not about filament run out....can the CR touch be used with BTT klipper Pi and and skr mini e3 v3?
Yes. It's set up exactly as a BLtouch.
@@StackingLayers thank you so much for the response..I think we have a bad CR touch
@@chucktastic2287 make sure the pins are being connected correctly. Creality uses odd wire colors sometimes that are completely backwards from the normal usage. Like black on +5v and red on ground. This is a good diagram to show what the pin functions are. support.th3dstudio.com/helpcenter/crtouch-sensor-pinout-sensor-side/
Hello how do i connect both sensors to octoprint?
I don't do much with octoprint anymore, but perhaps this plugin will work. plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/smartfilamentsensor/
@@StackingLayers okay thanks! Ill give it a try
QUERY_FILAMENT_SENSOR SENSOR=encoder_sensor
QUERY_FILAMENT_SENSOR SENSOR=switch_sensor